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FRUIT, 
FLOWER,  AND  KFrCHEN 

GARDEN. 


BY 
PATRICK  ,NEILL,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.E., 

SECRETARY  TO  THE  ROYAL  CALEDONIAN  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 


ADAPTED  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


FOURTH  EDITION, 


REVISED  AND   IMPROVED  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
HENRY    CAREY    BAIRD, 

SUCCESSOR  TO  E.  L.  CAREY. 
1851. 


♦   *  ** 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1851,  by 

HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District  of  Penn- 
sylvania. 


PHILADELPHIA : 
T.  K.  AND  P.  G.  COLLINS.  PRINTERS. 


PREFACE 


TO  THE 


AMERICAN   EDITION 


The  small  but  very  comprehensive  -work  here  pre- 
sented to  the  American  public,  is  the  production  of  one 
who  for  more  than  thirty  years  was  secretary  of  the 
"  Caledonian  Horticultural  Society,"  and  who  enjoyed 
every  facility  for  acquiring  the  very  best  information 
relating  to  the  subjects  upon  which  he  treats.  That  it 
has  been  favorably  received  in  England  and  Scotland, 
would  seem  very  clear  from  the  fact  of  its  having  gone  to 
a  fourth  edition  in  a  very  short  time.  The  treatise  pre- 
sents, in  a  condensed  form,  a  summary  view  of  the  con- 
dition of  horticultural  knowledge  in  Britain,  and  espe- 
cially in  Scotland,  from  whence  we  derive  the  most 
intelligent  and  successful  gardeners.  The  superior  skill 
of  these  in  the  management  of  plants  and  the  culture  of 
many  rare  kinds  of  fruit,  is  doubtless  owing  in  a  great 
degree  to  the  extraordinary  exertions  they  have  been 
accustomed  to  put  forth  to  secure  success  in  a  climate 
far  less  genial  to  fruits  and  flowers  than  that  of  most 
parts  of  the  United  States.  In  endeavoring  to  adapt 
this  valuable  manual  to  the  condition  of  things  in  the 
United  States,  it  has  been  thought  best  to  retain  all  the 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

original  matter,  however  apparently  irrelevant,  since 
most  intelligent  persons  can  make  proper  allowances  for 
changes  of  circumstances,  and  are  interested  in  knowing 
how  many  things  can  be  accomplished  where  greater 
obstacles  to  success  are  presented  than  they  themselves 
are  forced  to  contend  against.  To  persons  interested 
in  Horticulture  and  Fruit  culture,  residing  in  the  more 
northern  sections  of  the  Union,  and  -especially  the 
British  provinces,  Vfhere  considerable  difficulties  are 
met  with  from  the  shortness  of  summers,  and  rigor  of 
winters,  a  w^ork  containing  the  latest  and  best  informa- 
tion relating  to  the  modes  of  rendering  the  natural 
sources  of  heat  as  efficient  as  possible,  cannot  fail  to  be 
acceptable.  The  same  may  be  said  of  those  who  in 
every  section  of  our  country  desire  to  be  able  to  raise 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  flowers,  under  protection,  and  by 
the  most  judicious  application  of  artificial  heat,  bring 
these  to  perfection  in  every  month  of  the  year. 

Within  a  very  short  time  the  vine  culture  has  met 
in  the  United  States  with  extraordinary  success,  and 
the  production  from  native  grapes  of  wine  rivaling 
some  of  the  best  kinds  derived  from  the  Khine  and 
Moselle,  has  occasioned  no  little  surprise,  especially 
among  those  who  entertained  the  prevailing  theory  that 
no  good  wine  could  be  produced  on  the  eastern  portion 
of  a  continent.  Mr.  Longworth  of  Cincinnati,  the  chief 
among  many  pioneers,  by  refuting  this  dogma  has  laid 
his  countrymen  under  the  greatest  obligations,  and 
added  a  new  resource  to  the  already  teeming  wealth  of 
the  American  soil.  It  is  the  importance  which  we 
think  invests  this  subject,  that  has  led  us  to  devote  such 
particular  attention  to  American  grapes  and  the  modes 
of  culture  adopted  successfully  in  the  vicinity  of  Cincin- 


PREFACE.  IX 

nati,  for  much  of  wliich  information  we  have  been  in- 
debted to  an  extremely  valuable  publication  made  last 
year  by  Robert  Buchanan,  Esq.,  of  that  city. 

Any  one  who  has  given  attention  to  the  subject  must 
have  been  struck  with  the  waste  of  ground  devoted  in 
the  United  States  to  the  culture  of  fruit  of  indifferent 
character.  As  it  is  obvious  that  good  varieties  occupy 
no  more  space  than  inferior  ones,  we  have  endeavored 
to  aid  in  their  choice  those  who  set  out  orchards  or  cul- 
tivate fruit  in  any  manner,  by  giving  them  the  decisions 
of  the  American  Qongress  of  Fruit-grotuers,  which  has 
held  several  annual  meetings  in  New  York  and  else- 
where— a  highly  respectable  body  of  intelligent  and 
practical  men,  meeting  annually  to  discuss  the  merits 
and  promote  the  culture  of  the  best  fruits  of  all  kinds. 
A  few  years  will  demonstrate  to  the  country  the  most 
valuable  results  from  this  association  of  accom.plished 
and  experienced  pomologists. 


XU  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Alliaceous  Plants:  Onions,  Leeks,  Shallot,  and 

Garlic,           -            .            -            .            .  202-207 

Spinaceous  Plants:    Spinach,  Tetragonia,  Qui- 

noa,  &c., 207-211 

Asparaginous  Plants :  Asparagus,  Sea-kale,  Ar- 
tichoke, and  Cardoon,           -            -            -  211-221 

Salads,  &c. :  Lettuce,  Endive,  Succory,  Celery, 

Rhubarb-stalks,  Sweet  Herbs,         -            -  221-230 

Melons,  Squashes,  Pumpkins,  dc,           -            -  230 

Flower  Garden  in  general. 

Soil,  AYalks,  Edgings,  &c.,          -            -            -  240-250 
Ornamental  Shrubs,  and  Rosary,            -             -  253 
Showy  Herbaceous  Plants,         -            -            -  259 
Florists'  Flowers:  Hyacinth,  Tulip,  Ranuncu- 
lus, Anemone,  Carnation,  Pink,  &c.,          -  272 
Botanical    Structures :    Green-house,  Conserva- 
tory, Stove,  with  Ornamental  Plants  suited 
to  each,         -            -            -            -            -  296 
Cultivation  of  Tropical  Orchidaceae,       -            -  309 

Forcing  Garden,            -            -         .   -            -            -  313 

Difierent  kinds  of  furnaces,         -            -            .  314 

Heating  by  steam,            -            -            -            -  318 

hot  water,     -            -            -            -  320 

Admission  of  Air  and  Light,       -            -            -  334 

Vinery,     ------  342 

Peach-house,        -----  349 

Cherry-house,  Fig-house,  and  Orangery,             -  354 
Pinery,  Nursing-Pit,  Succession-Pit,  and  Fruit- 

ing-house,     -----  369 

Culture  of  Pine-apples,   -            -            -            -  369 

Melonry,  various  forms  of  Pits,               -            -  380 

Cucumbers,  Gourds,  and  Mushrooms,                -  382 

Calendar   of    Horticultural   Duties    in    the    various 

months,         -----  395 


HORTICULTURE 


INTRODUCTION. 

Horticulture  is  that  branch  of  rural  economy  which 
consists  in  the  formation  and  culture  of  Gardens.  Its 
results  are  culinary  vegetableSj  fruits,  and  flowers.  On 
one  side  it  is  allied  to  Agriculture,  from  which,  how- 
ever, it  is  distinguished  by  the  nature  of  its  products, 
and  by  the  smaller  extent  and  greater  complexity  of 
its  operations ;  on  the  other  side,  in  its  processes  of 
embellishment,  it  approaches  the  department  of  the 
Landscape  Gardener  and  the  Forester,  from  which, 
however,  it  also  retires  in  the  comparative  minuteness 
of  its  details. 

Like  other  arts.  Horticulture  borrows  its  principles 
from  the  general  sciences.  To  Botany  it  is  beholden 
for  the  facts  and  theories  of  vegetable  physiology ;  to 
Chemistry  for  assistance  in  reference  to  soils,  manures, 
and  artificial  heat;  and  to  Meteorology  for  a  knowledge 
of  many  circumstances  which  very  materially  affect  the 
labors  of  the  gardener.  "With  these  subjects,  the  phi- 
losophical horticulturist  will  not  fail  to  make  himself 
familiar.  But  it  is  very  desirable  that  such  information 
should  be  extensively  diffused  iimong  practical  men;  as 


Jt^u  CoU«- 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

it  is  only  from  this  quarter  that  much  improvement,  in 
our  present  state  of  knowledge,  can  be  expected.  Truth, 
however,  obliges  us  to  admit  that  gardening  has  been 
most  successfully  practiced  when  treated  as  an  empiri- 
cal art.  Few  of  those  who  are  minutely  conversant 
with  its  numerous  manipulations  have  undergone  such 
an  intellectual  training  as  to  enable  them  to  wield  gene- 
ral principles  with  effect.  Many  who  are  not  inexpert 
or  unsuccessful  while  they  follow  the  routine  practice  (a 
practice,  be  it  remembered,  founded  on  long  experience 
and  close  observation),  egregiously  fail  when,  with  im- 
perfect information,  or  ill-advised  ingenuity,  they  en- 
deavor to  strike  out  new  paths  for  themseHes.  The 
object  of  the  art,  too,  limits  the  application  of  the  de- 
ductions of  science.  Its  whole  business  consists  in  the 
imitation  of  Nature,  whose  processes  may  indeed  be,  in 
some  measure,  originated,  as  when  a  seed  is  inserted 
in  the  ground,  or  modified,  as  in  the  artificial  training 
of  fruit-trees,  but  which  may  not  be  entirely  controlled, 
much  less  counteracted.  The  principle  of  .vegetable 
life  will  not  endure  interference  beyond  a  certain  point, 
and  our  theoretical  views  should  be  so  directed  as  to 
interfere  with  it  as  little  as  possible.  Observation  and 
experiment  are  the  grand  means  by  which  the  art  has 
arrived  at  its  present  state  of  advancement:  at  the 
same  time,  it  is  obvious  that  an  enlarged  acquaintanee 
with  science  will  aid  us  in  imitating  the  processes  of 
nature,  will  guide  the  hand  of  experiment,  suggest  con- 
trivances, and  enable  us  to  guard  against  error ;  and, 
above  all,  will  tend  to  dispel  those  prejudices  which 
practitioners  in  the  empirical  arts  are  so  prone  to  cher- 
ish. 

Gardening,  Mr.  Walpole  observes,  was  probably  one 


INTRODUCTION.  11 

of  the  first  arts  which  succeeded  to  that  of  buiiding 
houses,  and  naturally  attended  property  and  individual 
possession.  Culinary,  and  afterwards  medicinal  herbs, 
were  objects  in  request  by  every  head  of  a^family;  and 
it  became  convenient  to  have  them  within  reach,  with- 
out searching  for  them  in  woods,  in  meadows,  or  on 
mountains,  as  they  might  be  wanted.  Separate  in- 
closures  for  rearing  herbs  were  soon  found  expedient. 
Fruits  were  in  the  same  predicament;  and  those  most 
in  use,  or  the  cultivation  of  which  required  particular 
attention,  must  early  have  entered  into  and  extended 
the  domestic  inclosure.  Such  maybe  deemed  the  lead- 
ing heads  of  a  conjectural  history  of  the  art;  and,  in- 
deed, if  we  would  ascend  into  remote  antiquity,  we  can 
have  recourse  only  to  conjecture ;  for  although,  in  the 
Sacred  Writings,  and  in  the  earliest  profane  authors, 
allusions  to  gardens  occur,  little  is  told  us  either  of  their 
productions  or  their  culture.  At  the  close  of  the  Roman 
commonwealth,  the  catalogue  of  fruits  had  become  con- 
siderable, the  principles  of  grafting  and  pruning  were 
understood  and  practiced,  and  shortly  afterwards,  even 
artificial  heat  seems  to  have  been  partially  employed. 
With  the  decline  of  the  empire,  horticulture  .seems  also 
to  have  declined,  or  to  have  become  stationary;  but,  at 
the  revival  of  learning,  it  arose  from  the  slumber  of 
the  Dark  Ages,  encumbered,  it  is  true,  by  the  dreams 
of  the  alchymist,  the  restrictions  of  unlucky  days,  and 
the  imaginary  efi'ects  of  lunar  influence.  From  these 
fetters  it  was  ere  long  emancipated  by  the  diffusion  of 
knowledge,  and  it  has  hitherto  kept  pace  with  the  gene- 
ral improvement  of  society.  Modified  by  climate  and 
other  circumstances  in  different  countries,  its  advance- 
ment  has   been   various ;   but   nowhere   has   it   made 


12  INTRODUCTION. 

greater  progress  than  amongst  ourselves.  Introduced 
into  England  at  an  early  period,  gardening  became 
conspicuous  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  and  his  imme- 
diate successors,  and  met  with  considerable  attention 
during  the  reigns  of  the  Stuarts.  In  the  first  half  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  Miller,  Switzer,  and  others,  la- 
bored with  success  in  improving  the  operations,  and 
unfolding  the  principles  of  the  art ;  and  these  were 
succeeded  by  Abercrombie,  Speedily,  and  a  host  of 
writers,  who  added  greatly  to  our  stores  of  knowledge. 
In  1805  was  established  the  Horticultural  Society  of 
London,  which  was  followed,  in  1809,  by  the  institution 
of  the  Caledonian  Horticultural  Society  at  Edinburgh; 
and  in  their  train  have  sprung  up  a  multitude  of  pro- 
vincial gardening  societies,  all  of  which  have  given  an 
impulse  to  the  public  mind,  and  stimulated  the  exer- 
tions of  individuals.  Experimental  gardens  have  been 
formed,  in  which,  amongst  other  things,  the  important 
task  of  distinguishing  and  classifying  the  numerous 
varieties  of  our  hardy  fruits  has  been  zealously  prose- 
cuted. The  mass  of  information  now  collected  is  very 
great,  and  the  labor  expended  in  its  diffusion  unwea- 
ried. Judging  from  the  literature  of  the  day,  and  pass- 
ing downwards  from  the  sumptuous  Transactions  of  the 
Metropolitan  Society,  through  the  numerous  periodi- 
cals, to  the  penny  information  for  the  people,  we  shall 
scarcely  find  any  art,  however  nationally  important, 
which  receives  more  attention,  or  on  which  the  liberality 
of  the  wealthy  is  more  abundantly  bestowed.  The  pub- 
lic nursery-gardens,  too,  both  at  London  and  elsewhere, 
establishments  intimately  connected  with  our  subject, 
and  which,  in  a  manufacturing  nation,  are  not  the  least 
wonderful  amongst  the  applications  of  skill  and  capital, 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

l^rove  the  extent  and  perfection  to  wliicli  gardening  has 
advanced.  Although,  however,  there  is  not,  perhaps, 
in  the  annals  of  invention,  a  chapter  of  higher  interest 
than  the  history  of  Horticulture,  the  limits  prescribed 
to  us  do  not  permit  us  to  enter  farther  into  details :  we 
must,  therefore,  refer  to  the  late  eminent  Mr.  Loudon's 
Encycloi^sedia  of  Crardening,  a  work  which,  for  minute- 
ness of  exposition,  copiousness  of  illustration,  and  gene- 
ral accuracy,  is  perhaps  unrivaled  amongst  the  didactic 
treatises  of  our  times. 

We  intend  to  confine  our  attention  almost  exclusively 
to  the  horticulture  of  Great  Britain,  and  we  shall  en- 
deavor to  give  such  an  exhibition  of  its  practice  as  may 
suit  the  middle  districts  of  the  island.  The  objects  of 
culture  are  so  numerous,  the  operations  so  varied,  and 
the  materials  so  copious,  that,  in  presenting  what  can 
claim  only  the  character  of  a  sketch  of  our  subject,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  follow  a  plan  of  selection.  It  would 
be  unprofitable  to  describe  all  -the  methods  of  culture 
to  be  found  in  practice  at  the  present  day ;  "we  shall 
therefore  notice  such  only  as  are  deemed  the  best. 

The  subject  naturally  divides  itself  into  the  Fruit, 
the  Kitchen,  and  the  Flower  Garden :  but  as  the  first 
two  generally  occupy  the  same  locality,  or  are  inter- 
mingled with  each  other,  and  as  everything  connected 
with  their  formation  is  inseparably  involved,  we  shall, 
to  some  extent,  take  them  together.  Then  Avill  follow 
the  Flower  Garden  ;  and,  by  way  of  conclusion  to  the 
whole,  a  short  Calendar. 


FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

In  this  compartment  are  cultivated  the  articles  which 
are  necessary  for  the  supply  of  the  kitchen  and  the 
dessert-table.  In  England,  it  is  usually  enclosed  with 
walls,  not  only  for  the  sake  of  security  and  general  shel- 
ter, but  to  afford  the  means  of  cultivating  in  that  climate 
the  finer  fruits  by  training  the  trees  close  to  the  walls. 
In  the  United  States,  little  or  no  protection  against  cold 
is  necessary,  unless  it  be  in  the  more  northern  sections. 
But  the  English  garden  must  be  furnished  with  hot- 
houses, melon-frames,  and  similar  contrivances,  by 
which  the  fruits  of  warmer  climates  are  subjected  to  an 
artificially  increased  temperature,  and  thus  brought  to 
maturity.  .The  size  of  a  walled  garden  ought  evidently 
to  bear  some  proportion  to  the  splendor  of  the  mansion- 
house  of  which  it  is  an  appendage,  to  the  extent  of  the 
park,  and  the  means  of  the  family.  Where  the  demand 
is  large,  such  a  garden  should  not  comprehend  less 
than  from  four  to  six  acres.  In  many  places,  this  extent 
will  not  afi"ord  an  adequate  supply  of  culinary  vegeta- 
bles, but  some  of  the  bulkier  crops,  such  as  peas, 
potatoes,  and  turnips,  may  be  raised  in  the  orchard, 
or  on  the  home  farm.  From  an  acre  and  a  half  to- three 
acres  may  be  regarded  as  forming  a  respectable  middle- 
sized  garden ;  but,  within  the  limits  already  mentioned. 


16  FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

it  is  better,  in  the  first  formation  of  a  garden,  to  inclose 
too  large  than  too  small  a  space. 

The  productiveness  of  such  an  establishment  will  de- 
pend chiefly  upon  the  natural  fertility  of  the  soil,  and 
the  favorable  kind  of  situation,  but  also  in  a  consider- 
able degree  upon  the  labor  bestowed  upon.the  culture. 
Where  a  garden  is  undertvorked  (to  use  a  gardener's 
phrase),  the  finer  products  must  necessarily  be  scanty, 
for  whatever  requires  care  requires-time  ;  and  it  not  un- 
frequently  happens  that  a  gardener  fails  in  some  crop, 
not  from  defect  of  method  or  skill,  but  because  he  had 
not  been  able  to  overtake  it,  or  has  been  obliged  to  make 
his  preparations  in  a  hurried  and  insufficient  manner. 
All  circumstances  being  favorable,  a  British  garden  is 
perhaps  unrivaled  in  fertility  by  any  cultivated  spot  in 
the  world.  A  copious  supply  of  esculents  flows  into  the 
kitchen  at  all  seasons  ;  and  after  a  rich  abundance  of 
fruit  has  been  afi"orded  during  summer  and  autumn,  the 
winter  stores  may  be  easily  prolonged  till  the  early 
forced  fruits  come  again  to  the  table. 

We  shall  first  treat  of  th^  general  properties  and  ap- 
pendages of  the  Fruit  and  Kitchen  Garden. 

Situation. — The  position  of  the  garden  in  relation  to 
the  mansion-house  properly  belongs  to  the  province  of 
Landscape-Gardening,  as  it  obviously  should  be  in 
keeping  with  the  general  features  of  the  park  scenery. 
There  should  intervene  a  lawn,  or  piece  of  green  sward, 
of  larger  or  less  dimensions  ;  and  great  attention  should 
be  paid  to  the  original  formation  of  such  lawn.  After 
the  surface  of  the  ground  has  been  leveled  and  made 
fine,  some  such  selection  of  gra,ss-seeds  as  the  following 
(calculated  for  half  an  acre)  should  be  adopted:  Lolium 


SITUATION.  IT 

perenne  tenue,  {Slender  Rye-Grass,)  8  lbs.;  Trifolium 
repens,  {tvliite  Dutch  Clover,)  3  lbs.;  T.  minus,  1  lb.; 
Cynosurus  cristatus,  {Orchard  Grass,)  3  lbs.;  Festuca 
duriuscula,  {Hard  or  Smooth  Fescue,)  2  lbs.;  F.  ovina 
tenuifolia,  {Slender  Sheep'' s  Fescue,)!  lb. ;  Poa  nemoralis 
sempervirens,  {Annual  Meadow  Grass,)  2  lbs. ;  and  An- 
thoxanthum  odoratum,  {Sweet-scented  3feadotu  Grass,) 
J  lb.  If  the  soil  be  light  or  sandy,  more  of  the  fescue- 
grasses  may  be  sown,  and  J  lb.  of  Lotus  corniculatus 
{Common  Bifd's-Foot  Clover,  or  Trefoil)  added.  It 
may,  in  general,  be  remarked  that,  as  a  place  of  interest 
to  every  well-informed  proprietor,  the  garden  should  be 
so  near  to  the  mansion  as  to  be  conveniently  accessi- 
ble on  foot,  probably  within  little  more  than  a  quarter 
of  a  mile ;  while  it  should  be  so  distant  as  to  avoid  the 
possibility  of  offence  arising  from  the  necessary  garden- 
ing operations,  and  the  resort  of  workmen.  A  position 
on  one  side  of  the  house  is  to  be  preferred,  unless  a 
much  more  eligible  one  occur  in  the  rear.  Wherever  it 
be  placed,  it  should  be  so  masked  by  evergreen  shrubs, 
and  by  trees,  as  not  to  be  visible  from  the  principal  lawn, 
or  from  the  walks  in  the  shrubbery  and  flower-garden. 
If  the  surface  of  the  domain  be  undulated,  the  garden 
is  almost  unavoidably  seen  from  some  point  or  other, 
and  the  coup-d'^oeil  of  the  inclosure  walls  is  apt  to 
present  the  idea  of  a  huge  box;  an  unpleasant  impres- 
sion, which  should  by  all  means  be  avoided  or  lessened 
by  plantations  judiciously  introduced. 

Ground  possessing  a  gentle  inclination  toward  the 
south  is  desirable  for  a  garden. ,  On  such  a  slope  effec- 
tual draining  is  easily  accomplished,  and  the  greatest 
possible  benefit  is  derived  from  the  sun's  rays.  The 
lower  part  of  the  gentle  declivity  is  perhaps  to  be  pre- 


18  FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

ferred;  but  a  very  low  situation  should  scarcely  be 
chosen,  as  the  subsoil  is  apt  to  be  damp ;  fogs  often 
brood  over  such  spots,  and  frosts  are  more  injurious 
there  than  on  higher  ground.  It  is  beneficial  to  have 
an  open  exposure  towards  the  east  and  west,  so  that 
the  garden  may  enjoy  the  full  benefit  of  the  morning 
and  evening  sun. 

Shelter  is  absolutely  necessary ;  and  that  afforded 
by  natural  objects,  such  as  rising  grounds,  is  the  best. 
Where  this  is  wanting,  its  place  should  be  supplied  by 
masses  of  forest-trees,  disposed  at  such  a  distance,  how- 
ever, as  not  to  shade  the  wall  trees,' perhaps  not  nearer 
than  150  feet.  The  chief  purpose  of  such  screens  is  to 
break  the  force  of  the  winds ;  and  as  every  situation  is, 
in  this  respect,  liable  to  some  peculiarities  occasioned 
by  the  general  structure  of  the  country,  or  by  the  rever- 
beration of  aerial  currents  from  adjacent  eminences, 
these  peculiarities  should  be  carefully  observed  and  ob- 
viated. The  idea  that  crowded  plantations  increase  the 
warmth  of  a  place,  is  often  fallacious  ;  and,  in  the  opin- 
ion of  many,  they  do  more  harm  than  good,  by  en- 
couraging blight.  The  trees  employed  may  be  of  a 
varied  character,  but  lime-tree,  horse-chestnut,  beech, 
sycamore,  weeping  birch,  oak,  and  the  smooth-leaved 
wych  elm,  should  prevail.  There  may  also  be  a  pro- 
portion of  evergreen  trees,  such  as  firs,  pines,  hollies', 
and  evergreen  oaks.  When  these  masses  of  wood  are 
planted  at.  the  time  the  garden  is  formed,  poplars, 
larches,  and  other  fast-growing  trees,  should  be  thickly 
intermixed  to  act  as  temporary  trees-  or  nurses,  which 
are  afterwards  to  be  weeded  out,  as  the  permanent  trees 
more  slowly  advance  to  maturity.  W^alls  immediately 
around  the  garden,    and  low  hedges   intersecting  the 


WATER — APPROACH.  19 

compartments,  are  liiglilj  useful  in  preventing  radia- 
tion during  clear  nights,  which  always  produces  great 
additional  cold. 

A  supply  of  ivater  is  equally  necessary.  Where  a 
streamlet  can  be  made  to  flow  through  the  garden,  and 
keep  a  central  pool  constantly  full,  it  will  conduce  both 
to  utility  and  amenity.  In  many  places,  such  a  stream- 
let cannot  be  commanded  ;  but  water  may  be  conducted 
in  pipes  from  springs  or  sources  higher  than  the  general 
level  of  the  garden,  and  collected  in  a  tank  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  inclosure.  Supposing  the  garden  to  have 
a  slopfe  to  the  south,  water  might  not  only  be  supplied 
from  such  tank  for  ordinary  garden  purposes,  but  might 
be  made  to  irrigate  different  quarters  in  succession.  The 
late  Mr.  Knight,  of  Downton,  was  in  the  practice  of  irri- 
gating w^ith  great  advantage  his  strawberry  beds  while 
in  flower,  the  rows  of  celery  and  of  broccoli,  and  of  other 
crops  transplanted  during  summer;  and  particularly  the 
late  crops  of  peas,  the  irrigation  of  which  tended  to  pre- 
vent mildew,  and  to  insure  the  production  of  healthy 
green  peas  during  the"  month  of  October.  A  pipe  of 
suflicient  calibre  should  be  led  from  the  pool  or  tank  to 
the  hot-houses,  and  to  two  or  three  different  stations  in 
the  garden.  Well  or  spring  water  should  be  exposed  in 
reservoirs  to  the  action  of  the  sun  and  air,  w^hen  it  be- 
comes comparatively  soft  and  salubrious  for  plants.  As 
rain-water  is  found  better  than  any  other  for  this  pur- 
pose, all  that  can  be  collected  should  be  stored  in  cis- 
terns and  kept  for  use. 

Connected  with  the  situation  is  the  approach  to  the 
garden  from  without,  ia  matter  requiring -some  taste  and 
contrivance.  If  possible,  it  should  be  from  the  south, 
when  the  range  of  glazed  houses,  always  fronting  to- 


20  FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GAEDEN. 

wards  the  south,  will  bo  seen  at  once,  and  produce  a 
pleasing  effect.  Sometimes  a  lateral  entrance  is  very 
suitable,  leading,  it  may  be  supposed,  from  the  flower- 
garden  through  an  intermediate  shrubbery,  and  coming 
upon  the  hot-houses  in  flank.  It  is  delightful  to  be  in- 
troduced at  once  and  by  surprise  into  a  Slip,  as  it  is 
called,  where  on  the  one  hand  there  is  an  extent  of  wall 
covered  with  luxuriant  fruit-trees  in  full  bearing,  and 
on  the  other  is  displayed  a  rich  collection  of  ornamental 
shrubs  and  large  perennial  border-flowers. 

Form. — The  shape  of  a  garden,  it  is  obvious,  must 
chiefly  be  determined  by  the  nature  of  the  situation,  and 
the  taste  of  the  proprietor.  In  general,  gardens  are 
eitlier  squares  or.  oblongs,  chiefly,  it  is  presumed,  because 
Walls  of  this  configuration  contain  the  greatest  space 
within  the  least  perimeter,  a  result  of  very  questionable 
value.  They  may  be  of  any  form,  with  this  limitation, 
that  attention  should  be  paid  to  facilitating  the  trans- 
port of  manures  and  garden  products,  for  when  the 
grounds  are  straggling,  or  complicated  in  structure,  the 
labor  of  cultivation  is  much  increased. 

Exterior  Fence. — Most  English  gardens  are  encircled 
by  an  outer  boundary,  formed  by  a  sunk  wall  or  ha-ha, 
surmounted  by  an  invisible  wire-fence  to  exclude  hares, 
or  by  a  hedge  or  paling.  Occasionally  this  sunk  wall  is 
placed  on  the  exterior  of  the  screen  plantations,  and 
walks  lead  out  among  the  trees,  to  give  favorable 
views  of  the  adjacent  country.  Although  the  interior 
garden  necessarily  receives  its  form  from  the  walls,  the 
ring-fence  and  plantations  may,  with  propriety,  be 
adapted  to  the  shape  and  surface  of  the  ground.  The 
spaces  between  the  outer  fence  and  the  walls  are^,  as 
already  noticed,  called  Slips,  and,  where  circumstances 


WALLS.  >  21 

render  it  eligible,  a  considerable  extent  of  ground  is 
sometimes  included,  and  appropriated  to  the  culture  of 
small  fruits  and  kitchen  vegetables.  If  possible,  the 
gardener's  house  should  be  situate  here,  as  being  conve- 
nient for  him,  and  as  tending  to  scare  depredators. 

Walls, — 'For  the  production  of  the  finer  fruits,  such 
as  peaches,  apricots,  figs,  hardy  grapes,  and  most  of  the 
delicate  French  and  Flemish  pears,  the  aid  of  walls  is 
indispensable  in  the  English  climate.  Indeed,  in  the 
northern  and  higher  parts  of  that  country,  ^Yhere  there 
is  no  walled  garden,  the  dessert  can  seldom  consist  of 
more  than  small  fruits,  such  as  gooseberries,  with  some 
apples  and  pears.  So  valuable  in  this  respect  are  walls, 
that  it  is  perhaps  a  matter  of  surprise  that  they  have 
not  been  multiplied  by  the  erection  of  slight  and  cheap 
structures,  such  as  are  common  in  the  peach-gardens  in 
France.  The  north  inclosure  wall  having,  towards  the 
interior  of  the  garden,  a  south  aspect,  is  of  course  ap- 
propriated to  the  more  tender  Tvinds  of  fruit-trees  ;  here, 
it  is  generally  estimated,  they  enjoy  an  increased  tem- 
perature equal  to  T°  of  south  latitude.  The  east  and 
west  walls  are  set  apart  for  fruits  of  a  somewhat  hardier 
character ;  while  the  inner  face  of  the  south  inclosure 
wall,  having  a  north  aspect,  is  well  adapted  for  retard- 
ing Morella  cherries  and  currants. 

The  north  inclosure  wall  is  generally  placed  nearly 
perpendicular  to  the  meridian,  that  is,  so  as  to  have  the 
sun  directly  in  front  at  12  o'clock.  Minute  directions 
have  indeed  been  given  to  make  it  face  towards^  11  or 
11 J  A.  M.,  on  the  ground  that  thus  it  would  sooner  meet 
the  rays  of  the  morning  sun ;  but  it  does  not  appear  that 
this  arrangement  has  been  the  subject  of  direct  experi- 
ment, and  certainly  the  arguments  by  which  the  supe- 


22  FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

rioritj  of  this  aspect  is  supported  are  far  from  being 
satisfactory.  The  east  and  west  walls  are  commonly 
placed  at  right  angles  to  that  already  mentioned,  but 
they  may  follow  the  shape  of  the  ground,  and  if  this 
slope  to  th«  south,  they  descend  with  the  declivity. 
The  south  inclosure  wall  affords  on  the  outside  a  valu- 
able aspect  to  the  south,  which  is  deserving  of  particular 
attention,  the  finest  fruit  being  often, here  produced. 
It  is  presumed  that  all  the  walls  are  to  be  covered, 
both  within  and  without,  with  trees  trained  en  espalier. 

Different  portions  of  the  inclosure  wall  are  always 
built  of  different  heights,  and  this  variation  of  height  is 
the  more  necessary  when  the  ground  approaches  to  a 
level.  In  such  a  situation,  and  when  the  inclosure  does 
not  exceed  two  acres,  the  north  wall  may  rise  to  the  ele- 
vation of  14  feet ;  the  walls  on  the  east  and  west  may 
be  two  feet  lower,  and  the  south  wall  need  not  exceed 
10  feet.  In  larger  gardens,  the  walls  are  generally  made 
proportionally  higher:  on  the  north,  perhaps  16  feet,  on 
the  east  and  west  14,^ and  on  the  south  12.  In  several 
excellent  Scottish  gardens,  planned  by  the  late  Mr.  Hay, 
such  as  that  at  Castle  Semple,  a  piece  of  building  is 
made  to  project  diagonally  outwards  from  the  corners 
where  the  walls  meet  at  right  angles.  This  projection 
is  16  or  17  feet  in  length.  It  serves  to  strengthen  the 
fabric,  and,  at  the  same  time,  acts  as  a  hrise-vent^  break- 
ing the  force  of  the  winds  which  sweep  around  walled 
gardens. 

Walls  inclined  to  the  horizon  have  been  recommended 
by  Desaguliers,  Hoffels,  and  others;  but,  independently 
of  the  theoretical  objections  which  might  be  urged 
against  them,  and  which,  in  actual  practice,  would. pro- 
bably counterbalance  their  supposed  advantages,  they 


WALLS.  23 

must  be  inconvenient  from  their  bulk,  or  the  large  space 
which  they  occupy  ;  and  hence  they  have  never  come 
into  general  use.  Where,  however,  the  natural  slope 
of  the  ground  is  too  great  for  carrying  on  the  ordinary 
operations  of  gardening,  sloping  terraces  may  advan- 
tageously be  converted  into  a  kind  of  inclined  wall,  to 
be  faced  with  slate  or  some  other  material  that  does 
not  readily  absorb  moisture. 

Bricks  afford  the  best  and  the  most  kindly  material 
for  garden-walls.  Being  rough  and  porous,  they  absorb 
radiant  caloric,  and,  being  bad  conductors,  they  accu- 
mulate heat ;  when  thus  rendered  warmer  than  the  am- 
bient air,  they  rapidly  part  with  the  extra  heat,  and 
maintain  the  temperature  amid  the  branches  nailed  to 
the  wall ;  they  do  not  retain  moisture,  and,  by  their 
numerous  interstices,  they  furnish  every  facility  for  nail- 
ing in  the  twigs  of  the  fruit-trees.  Where  freestone 
(that  is,  sandstone  capable  of  being  easily  dressed)  is 
abundant,  the  exterior  wall  is  often  formed  of  coursed 
masonry,  and  the  interior  is  faced  with  bricks.  The 
foundation  should,  if  possible,  be  formed  of  stone. 
Whimstone  (that  is,  either  the  greenstone  or  the  basalt 
of  mineralogists)  forms  an  excellent  material  for  fruit- 
walls.  It  is  susceptible  of  a  neat  hammer-dressing  ;  it 
does  not  readily  imbibe  moisture,  and  therefore  is  not 
much  cooled  by  evaporation  ;  and  being  of  a  very  dark 
color,  it  absorbs  more  solar  heat  during  sunshine  than  a 
lighter  surface,  while  at  night  the  radiation  from  both  is 
nearly  the  same.  Diiferent  parts  of  the  principal  fruit- 
wall  of  the  Horticultural  Society's  Garden  at  Edinburgh 
are  built  of  brick,  of  freestone,  and  of  greenstone  ;  and 
the  plants  trained  against  the  greenstone  portion  have 


24  FRUIT  A1?D  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

evinced,  by  their  growth  and  earlier  maturity,  that  they 
enjoy  a  somewhat  superior  temperature. 

For  the  preservation  of  the  walls,  a  coping  is  neces- 
sary ;  and  it  seems  a  matter  of  indifference  whether  it 
be  formed  of  stones  with  a  rounded  surface,  or  of  flat 
pavement,  or  of  tiles.  Probably  it  should  not  project 
more  than  an  inch,  though  some  contend  for  a  larger 
measure,  on  the  ground  of  its  preventing  to  some  extent 
the  radiation  of  heat  from  the  tree  towards  the  sky  in 
clear  nights,  and  thus  favoring  the  deposition  of  dew. 
Temporary  copings  of  wood  are  often  adopted,  and  are 
found  to  answer  every  good  purpose.  They  are  put  on  in 
spring  to  protect  the  tender  blossom  and  embryo  fruit 
from  the  hoarfrost,  and  when  danger  is  past^  are  re- 
moved to  give  free  access  to  the  genial  showers  and 
sunshine  of  summer  and  autumn. 

Hot  Walls. — A  considerable  proportion  of  the  walls 
of  every  good  garden,  especially  in  the  north,  should  be 
constructed  with  flues  to  supply  the  means  of  applying 
artificial  heat.  The  additional  expense  is  trifling ;  and, 
in  cold  seasons  and  cold  situations,  the  aid  of  this  species 
of  wall  is  nearly  indispensable  for  the  regular  ripening 
of  grapes,  apricots,  and  figs,  as  exemplified  at  Erskine 
House  on  the  Clyde,  where,  with  the  assistance  of  a 
little  fire-heat,  large  and  high-flavored  black  Hamburgh 
grapes  are  produced,  and  where  Mayduke  cherries 
have  been  ripened  at  least  six  weeks  before  the  usual 
period.  The  application  of  fire-heat  for  a  few  weeks  in 
spring  will  secure  the  setting  of  the  fruit,  and  the  same 
operation  continued  for  a  short  time  in  autumn  will  suf- 
fice to  ripen  it,  and  also  to  prepare  the  young  wood  for 
the  next  year.  The  flues  may  be  about  twenty  inches 
deep,  and  should  make  as  many  horizontal  turns  as  the 


II.  estate 


ESPALIER-RAILS — SOIL.  25 

height  of  the  wall  will  permit.  One  furnace  will  be 
enough  for  a  surface  fiftj  feet  in  length.  When  the 
boundary  walls  do  not  furnish  room  sufficient  for  the 
production  of  the  finer  fruits,  cross  walls  are  built 
athwart  the  garden  from  east  to  west,  of  the  same  height 
as  the  side  walls,  to  which  they  nearly  approach.  They 
are  generally  fined,  and  are  sometimes  furnished,  on 
their  southern  aspect,  with  sloping  glazed  frames,  either 
fixed  or  movable.  These  cross  walls  add  greatly  to  the 
capabilities  of  a  fruit-garden,  and  are  useful  in  afford- 
ing additional  shelter  to  the  small  fruits  and  crops  of 
vegetables  in  the  culinary  quarters. 

Uspalier-Mails.SuhsidiaYy  to  walls  as  a  means  of 
training  fruit-trees,  espalier-rails  were  formerly  much 
employed,  and  they  still  prevail  in  many  parts  of  Eng- 
land. In  their  simplest  form,  they  are  merely  a  row 
of  slender  stakes  of  ash  or  Spanish  chestnut,  driven 
into  the  ground,  and  connected  by  a  slight  rod  or  fillet 
at  top.  In  some  gardens  the  perpendicular  rods  are 
fastened  into  two  horizontal  rails,  supported  by  strong 
posts,  which  are  battened  into  stones.  Cast-iron  rails 
have  also  been  proposed.  The  framework  is  some- 
times inclined  to  the  horizon,  or  adapted  to  a  sloping 
bank,  as  in  the  gardens  of  the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  at  St. 
Mary's  Isle ;  where  some  of  the  trees,  although  so 
trained  more  than  sixty  years  ago,  are  still  in  a  healthy 
condition,  bearing  abundant  crops  of  fruit.  In  other 
cases  the  framework  is  placed  flat  like  a  table,  and, 
when  there  is  plenty  of  room,  this  proves  a  good  ar- 
rangement. Espalier-rails,  especially  the  more  elabo- 
rate sorts,  are  expensive  and  formal;  and,  therefore,  in 
many  instances,  have  given  place  to   dwarf  standard 

"     .  3*  - 


26  FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

trees,  which  are  equally  productive,  and  far  more  ele- 
gant in  their  appearance. 

Soil. — It  is  of  great  importance  that  the  ground 
selected  for  a  garden  should  be  naturally  of  a  good 
quality.  A  hazel-colored  loam,  of  a  light  or  sandy 
texture,  is  well  adapted  for  most  crops,  whether  of 
fruits  or  culinary  vegetables.  Porosity  is  indispensable, 
not  only  for-  the  transmission  of  moisture,  but  of  air,  to 
the  roots  of  plants.  As  it  is  more  easy  to  render  a 
light  soil  sufficiently  retentive  than  to  make  a  tena- 
cious clay  sufficiently  porous,  a  light  soil  is  preferable 
to  one  which  is  excessively  stiff  and  heavy.  It  is  ad- 
vantageous to  possess  a  variety  of  soils ;  and  if  the 
garden  be  on  a  slope",  it  will  often  be  practicable  to 
render  the  upper  part .  light  and  dry,  while  the  lower 
remains  of  a  heavier  and  damper  nature.  The  soil 
should  be  good  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  and  any  neces- 
sary additional  deepening  by  manures  or  otherwise 
should  not  be  neglected.  The  nature  of  the  subsoil 
demands  particular  attention.  If  it  be  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  metallic  substances,  or  composed  of 
cold  wet  clay,  it  will  prove  pernicious  to  the  roots  of 
fruit-trees,  and  will  scarcely  admit  of  a  remedy.  A 
decomposing  rock,  or  a  bed  of  sandy  is  preferable. 
Perhaps  the  best  of  all  is  a  dry  bed  of  clay,  overlaying 
sandstone,  which  crops  gut  within  the  general  inclosure. 
If  the  inferior  strata  be  retentive,  and  if  water  lodge  in 
any  part  of  the  garden,  draining  should  be  carefully 
executed,  so  as  to  carry  off  the  superfluous  moisture. 

Preparatory  to  the  distribution  of  the  several  parts 
of  a  garden,  it  is  proper  that  the  ground  be  trenched  to 
the  depth  of  two  feet  at  least;  but  the  deeper  the  better. 
In  this  operation  all  stones  larger  than  a  man's  fist  are 


27 

to  be  taken  out,  and  all  roots  of  trees,  and  of  perennial 
weeds,  are  carefully  to  be  extracted  and  cleared  away. 
When  the  soil  is  not  tolerably  good  to  the  depth  of  two 
feet,  it  will  generally  be  proper  to  remove  a  portion  of 
the  subsoil ;  and  its  place  should  be  made  up  by  a  pro- 
portional quantity  of  turf  or  fresh  loam  from  the  fields. 
If  the  subsoil  be. gravel,  and  the  upper  layer  sandy,  the 
additional  eartb  should  be  clayey  loam,  or  the  scourings 
of  ditches;  but  if  the  original  body  of  soil  be  of  a  com- 
pact texture,  the  materials  introduced  should  be  mixed 
with  sand,  marl,  and  other  light  opening  substances.' 
"When  the  Avhole  ground  has  been  thus  treated,  a  mode- 
rate liming  will,  in  general,  be  useful.  After  this,  sup- 
posing the  work  to  have  occupied  most  of  the  summer 
and  autumn,  the  whole  may  be'  laid  up  in  ridges,  and- 
left  in  this  state  for  several  months,  to  expose  as  great 
a  surface  as  possible  to  the  action  of  the  winter's  frost. 
The  draining,  trenching,  and  other  operations  here 
recommended,  will  unavoidably  be  attended  with  consi- 
derable expense,  and  this  expense  will  not  immediately 
be  followed  by  any  perceptible  beneficial  result.  The 
lapse  of  a  few  years,  hov^'ever,  will  develojD  the  vast 
advantages  of  such  a  mode  of  procedure,  which,  if  it 
have  been  neglected  at  first,  cannot  be  practiced  at  a 
subsequent  period  but  with  indifferent  success,  and  not 
without  an  increase  of  cost  and  labor. 

Manures^  (^"c. — In  enumerating  the  general  append- 
ages of  gai'dens,  it  m'ay  be  proper  to  say  something  of 
manures ;  but  we  do  not  consider  it  necessary  to  enter 
into  minute  details  on  this  subject.  Where  there  are 
extensive  melon-grounds,  an  abundance  of  stable  and 
other  litter  is  required ;  and  this  substance,  in  its 
partially  decomposed  state,  as  afforded  by  exhausted 


28  FRUIT  AXD  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

hot-beds,  supplies  a  manure  well  adapted  to  aid  the 
processes  of  vegetation.  Decayed  leaves,  "which  are 
plentiful  where  there  are  extensive  pleasure-grounds, 
and  -which  should  be  carefully  swept  together,  and  col- 
lected into  a  heap  in  the  autumnal  months,  also  form 
an  excellent  manure  for  many  purposes.  Some  prac- 
tical men  prefer  composts  to  simple  dungs,  or  such 
substances  as  have  undergone  fermentation.  For  fruit- 
trees,  turf  from  rich  pastures,  mixed  with  vegetable 
earth,  is  perhaps  the  best  stimulant  that  can  be  applied. 
It  is  questionable  whether  any  sort  of  trees  are  per- 
manently benefited  by  the  application  of  crude  manures 
to  their  roots;  and  it  is  certain  that  many  have  been 
irremediably  injured  by  this  practice.  But  whatever 
caution  may  be  necessary  in  their  use,  the  prudent 
horticulturist  will  find  it  expedient  to  pay  constant  at- 
tention to  the  collection  and  accumulation  of  manures. 
Liquid  manures,  or  the  drainings  of  the  stable  and  cow- 
house, are  valuable,  yet  too  often  neglected.  To, fix 
the  ammonia,  Professor  Liebig  recommends  their  being 
passed  through  a  filter,  formed  of  fragments  of  gypsum, 
which  should  be  occasionally  renewed.  The  garden 
cannot  go  on  long  without  manures;  for  ground  which 
is  exhausted  by  continual  cropping  requires  to  be  con- 
tinually repaired.  A  compartment  for  the  preparation 
of  manure,  and  storing  of  vegetable,  and  heathy,  or 
other  soils,  is  necessary;  and  part  of  it  should  be 
covered  with  a  shed,  so  that  moderately  dry  earth-may 
not  be  wanting  for  the  early  forcing  of  cucumbers  and 
melons  in  the  spring,  and  for  similar  purposes. 

Internal  Arrangement. — In  gardens  of  the  superior 
class,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  north  wall,  or  of 
the  cross-wall,  is  covered  in  front  with  glazed  struc- 


INTERNAL  ARRANGEMENT.  29 

tures,  called  hot-houses  or  forcing-houses.  To  these  the 
houses  for  ornamental  plants  are  sometimes  attached ; 
but  the  last  are  more  appropriately  situate  in  the  flower- 
garden;  when  that  forms  a  separate  department.  It  is 
well,  however,  that  everything  connected  with  the  forc- 
ing, whether  of  fruits  or  flow^ers,  should  be  concentrated 
in  one  place.  Where  there  is  a  melonry,  and  other 
smaller  pine-pits,,  these  should  occupy  some  well-shel- 
tered spot  in  the  slip,  or  on  one  side  of  the  garden, 
and,  if  possible,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  stable-yard. 
Adjoining  to  this  may  be  found  a  suitable  site  for  the 
compost  ground,  in  which  various  kinds  of  soils  may 
be  kept  in  store,  and  composts  may  be  prepared,  as 
already  hinted. 

Extensive  gardens,  in  exposed  situations,  are  often 
divided  into  compartments  by  hedges,  so  disposed  as  to 
break  the  force  of  winds.  Where  these  are  required  to 
be  lofty,  yet  narrow,  holly,  yew,  or  beech  are  preferred ; 
but  if  space  be  no  object,  common  laurel  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  plants  that  can  be  employe4  for  this 
purpose.  Small  hedges  may  be  formed  of  evergreen 
privet,  or  of  tree-box.  These  subordinate  divisions, 
though  often  neglected,  are  worthy  of  attention  ;  for, 
in  addition  to  shelter,  they  furnish  shade  from  the 
sun's  rays,  which,  at  certain  seasons,  is  peculiarly  de- 
sirable, and  they  obviate  the  chilling  eifebts  of  radiation 
to  a  considerable  extent. 

The  laying  out  of  the  area  of  the  garden  in  walks, 
borders,  and  compartments,  may  be  regulated  very 
much  by  the  shape  of  the  ground,  and  the  torste  of  the 
owner.  In  general,  a  gra,vel  walk,  six  or  eight  feet 
broad,  is  led  quite  aroun-d  the  garden,  both  within  and 
without   the  walls.     A   walk  of  similar  dimensions  is 


3Q  FRUIT  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

often  constructed  in  the  centre  of  the  garden  in  the 
direction  of  the  glazed  houses,  and  this  is  sometimes 
crossed  by  another  at  right  angles.  At  times  these 
walks  are  led  diagonally  from  the  corners.  The  space 
between  the  wall  and  the  walk  that  skirts  it  is  called 
the  wall-border,  and  is  commonly  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  broad.  On  the  interior  of  the  walk  there  is  usually 
another  border  five  or  six  feet  broad,  winch  is  generally 
occupied  by  fruit-trees  trained  to  espalier-rails,  or  by 
dwarf  fruit-trees.  The  middle  part  of  the  garden  is 
divided  into  rectangular  compartments  for  the  raising 
of  the  various  culinary  crops.  These  compartments 
may  be  divided  by  rows  of  moderate-sized  fruit-trees, 
or  of  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes.  Standard  fruit- 
trees,  however,  soon  grow  so  large  as  to  shade  so  much 
ground,  that  they  cannot  be  allowed  except  where  the 
garden  is  very  large.  It  is  advantageous,  to  form  seve- 
ral small  beds,  in  which  to  cultivate  the  less  bulky 
articles,  such  as  basil,  sage,  tarragon,  spearmint,  and 
thyme,  which,  in  large  spaces,  are  apt  to  be  overlooked 
or  neglected. 

Wall-Borders. — The  preparation  of  borders  for  fruit- 
trees  is  a  matter  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  no  pains 
should  be  spared  in  this  essential  operation.  Where 
borders  are  not  in  good  condition,  the  care  and  toil  of 
the  most  experienced  gardener  will  avail  btit  little  to- 
ward the  production  of  fruit.  The  first  object  is  effec- 
tual draining.  The  next,  if  the  subsoil  be  indifferent, 
is  the  confining  the  trees  to  the  good  surface  soil,  by 
the  formation  of  a  bottom  impervious  to  their  roots. 
This  is  sometimes  done  with  stone-shivers  and  lime- 
rubbish,  or  with  coal-ashes  and  clay,  compacted  by 
treading  with  the  feet,  and  beating  with  the  back  of  a 


WALL-BORDERS — ORCHARDS.  31 

spade.  Loudon  recommends  successive  layers,  an  inch 
thick,  of  clean  gravel,  pulverized  earth,  and  then  gra- 
vel, well  watered  and  firmly  compressed  by  means  of 
a  heavy  roller.  Good  soil  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  and 
a  half,  or  three  feet,  is  placed  over  this  impervious 
bottom.  Three-fourths  rich  loam,  and  one-fourth  light 
sandy  earth,  form  a  mixture  congenial  to  the  gene- 
rality of  fruit-trees.  In  selecting  the  soil,  regard  may 
be  had  to  the  particular  trees  which  are  to  cover  dif- 
ferent portions  of  the  wall.  Thus,  a  heavy  soil  may 
be  allotted  to  pears  and  plums  ;  loam  of  a  medium 
character,  inclining  to  be  strong,  to  peaches,  nectarines, 
and  apricots  ;  and  a  lighter  earth  to  cherries  and  figs. 
Above  all,  care  should  be  taken  to  render  the  borders 
sufficiently  rich  and  substantial.  Whilst  every  skillful 
horticulturist  may,  in  various  ways,  reduce  the  luxu- 
riance of  his  trees,  nothing  can  compensate  for  extreme 
poverty  in  the  soil.  The  same  principle  will  dictate 
moderation  in  cropping  wall-borders  with  culinary  vege- 
tables ;  a  practice  in  which  gardeners  are  apt  to  exceed 
from  a  desire  to  furnish  very  early  crops  of  peas,  tur- 
nips, cahbage,  or  potatoes.  Lettuce,  endive,  or  small 
salad  plants,  do  little  harm. 

07'chards. — Within  the  limits  of  the  greater  propor- 
tion of  large  gardens,  such  a  number  of  dwarf  standard 
trees  may  be  planted  as  will  prove  sufiicient  to  aff"ord 
a  supply  of  fruit  for  an  ordinary  family.  W^here,  how- 
ever, this  is  not  the  case,  it  is  desirable  that  there 
should  be  a  separate  orchard.  A  situation  similar  to 
that  of  a  garden,  and  the  same  preparatory  operations, 
are  necessary :  but  a  simple  hedge  will,  in  most  situa- 
tions, suffice  for  a  fence.  The  trees  may  here  be  on 
free  stocks  and  trained  as  high  standards,  and  the  taller 


32  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

growing  pears  and  apples  are  best  suited  for  a  large 
orchard.  Thoresbj,  in  his  Diary,  under  date  of  March 
1702,  mentions,  as  a  novelty,  an  orchard,  "  kept  in  the 
new  order  of  dwarf  trees,"  evidently  intimating  that 
dwarf  standards  .were  introduced  from  Holland  by  the 
Prince  of  Orange  at  the  time  of  the  revolution.  When 
an  additional  supply  of  culinary  vegetables  is  required, 
they  may  be  cultivated  in  the  orchard  ;  and  then  the 
trees  should  be  planted  in  rows,  with  considerable  in- 
tervals between  the  rows,  otherwise  the  close  quincunx 
order  is  preferable.  In  any  circumstances,  the  trees 
should  not  be  choked  up  with  currant  and  gooseberry 
buslies,  as  is  too  common  in  market  gardens.  A  few 
plums  and  cherries  are  commonly  introduced ;  and 
on  the  margin  may  be  planted  v,^alnuts,  chestnuts,  fil- 
berts, and  any  others  less  commpnly  cultivated,  or  the 
fruit  of  which  is  not  much  in  demand.  The  whole 
should  be  effectually  screened  from  the  prevailing  winds, 
by  rows  of  forest  trees  ;  at  a  sufficient  distance,  how- 
ever, to  prevent  shading  by  their  branches,  or  the  rob- 
bing of  the  soil  by  their  roots. 


FRUIT  GARDEN. 

We  shall  first  direct  our"attention  to  the  culture  of 
hardy  fruits,  or  of  such  as,  in  the  climate  of  England, 
■do  not,  to  an  extensive  degree,  require  the  assistance 
of  artificial  heat.  But  before  proceeding  to  a  minute 
detail  of  the  management  of  the  different  varieties,  it 
may  be  proper  to  attend  to  some  of  the  operations  which 
are  common  to  all. 


PROPAGATION  BY  SEEDS.  33 

Preliminary  Operations 

may  be  classed  under  the  heads  Propagation,  Planting, 
Training,  and  Protection  of  Blossom. 

Propagation  hy  Seed.. — Although  fruit-trees  are  fur- 
nished with  all  the  natural  means  of  reproduction,  it  is 
not  in  general,  expedient  to  attempt  to  propagate  them 
by  the  sowing  of  seed.  This  .method  is  found  to  be 
equally  tedious  and  precarious,  requiring  the  labor  of 
a  good  many  years,  and  very  rarely  producing  an  exact 
copy  of  the  fruits  from  which  the  seeds  are  taken.  The 
chief  reason,  of  the  variation  is  pretty  obvious  ;  the  blos- 
soms of  different  varieties  of  the  same  species  of  fruit 
are  commonly  expanded,  at  the  same  period  of  time,  in 
the  neighborhood  of  each  other,  ind  the  pollen  of  one 
kind  is  thus  extremely  apt  to  be  transferred,  by  the 
agency  of  bees  and  other  insects,  to  the  stigma  of  ano- 
ther kind.  If,  therefore,  we  desire  to  procure  unconta- 
minated  seed  of  an  excellent  variety,  such  as  the  Rib- 
ston  apple,  we  ought  to  encircle  the  blossom-bud  with 
a  fine  gauze  b^g,  sufficiently  wide  to  allow  the  blossom 
to  expand,  and  not  remove  the  covering  till  the  fruit  be 
fairly  set.  Another  source  of  variation  is  to  be  found 
in  the  influence  of  the  stock  upon  the  graft,  which  is 
real,  though  not  easily  detected,  except  in  extreme-cases 
(such  as  grafting  Scotch'  apples  upon  stocks  of  the  Rus- 
s-ian  transparent,  and  finding  the  former  acquiring  the 
transparent  character).  To  obviate  this  the  tree  should 
stand  on  its  own  bottom,-  or  be  struck  from  a  cutting. 
All  our  present  admired'  fruits  are  regarded  as  seminal 
varieties  obtained  from  the  wild  inhabitants  of  the  fo- 
rests ;  they  have  been  trained  into  an  artificial  condi- 
tion, and  when  sown  seem  to  have  a  tendency  to 
4 


34  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

resume  their  original  constitution.  In  the  peach- 
orchards  of  America,  for  instance,  which  are  planted 
with  the  kernels  of  choice  sorts,  there  are  seldom  more 
than  a  few  trees  affording  fruit  fit  for  the  table,  the 
produce  of  the  majority  being  so  worthless  that  it  is 
usually  employed  for  feeding  hogs.  Notwithstanding 
this  embarrassing  circumstance,  there  are  some  conside- 
rations which  render  this  mode  of  propagation  at  once 
interesting  and  important  to  horticulturists.  It  is  the 
only  way  by  which  we  can  procure  new  kinds  to  supply 
the  place  of  those  which  are  falling  into  decay ;  and  to 
some  extent  it  affords  the  means  of  adapting  the  more 
tender  sorts  to  the  rigor  of  our  climate.  It  is  well 
known  that  some  of  the  favorite  cider  apples  of  the 
seventeenth  century  have  become  extinct,  and  others 
are  fast  verging  into  decrepitude ;  and  hence  the  con- 
clusion has  been  drawn,  that  all  our  present  fruits,  as 
they  are  artificial  in  their  constitution,  are  also  limited 
in  their  duration.  Each  variety  springing  from  an  in- 
dividual at  first,  however  extended  by  grafting  or  bud- 
ding, partakes  of  the  qualities  of  the  individual ;  and 
where  the  original  is  old,  there  is  inherent  in  the  deriva- 
tives the  tendency  to  decay  incident  to  old  age.  It  is 
assumed  that  all  the  individual  trees  of  any  given 
variety,  such  as  the  Golden  Pippin,  or  the  Gray  Lead- 
ington,  are  in  a  lax  sense  equivalent  to  one  individual. 
By  careful  management,  the  health  and  life  of  this  com- 
posite individual  may  be  prolonged ;  and  grafts  inserted 
into  vigorous  stocks,  and  nursed  in  favorable  situa- 
tions, may  long  survive  their  parent  tree ;  still  there  is 
a  sure  progress  towards  extinction,  and  the  only  renewal 
of  the  individual,  the  only  true  reproduction,  is  by 
sowing  seed.     It  is  admitted  by  those  who  have  paid 


PROPAGATION  BY  SEEDS.  35 

attention  to  the  subject,  that  this  curious  principle  of 
vegetable  economy  holds  true,  at  least  in  so  far  as  re- 
gards fruit-trees. 

The  late  Mr.  Knight,  to  whom  this  ingenious  theory 
is  due,  conceived  the  idea  of  supplying  the  lack  of  fine 
old  varieties  by  semination.  It  further  occurred  to  him, 
that  advantage  might  be  taken  of  that  tendency  which 
plants  exhibit  on  repeated  sowings,  to  adapt  themselves 
to  the  climates  in  which  they  are  raised,  so  that  trees  of 
warmer  countries  may  thus  become  habituated  to  colder 
regions.  He  therefore  devoted  much  of  his  attention 
to  the  production  of  improved  and  robust  varieties;  and 
his  zeal  and  labors  have  been  rewarded  by  the  Acton 
Scott  Peach,  the  Ingestrie  and  Downton  Apples,  and 
many  others,  in  almost  every  sort  of  hardy  fruit.  Mr. 
Knight  entertained  the  opinion,  deduced,  we  may  pre- 
sume, from  experiment,  that  more  is  to  be  expected  from 
hybrid  varieties,  than  from  the  mere  reproduction  of 
old  kinds;  he  therefore  had  recourse  to  the  nice  opera- 
tion of  dusting  the  pollen  of  one  kind  on  the  pistil  of 
another.  He  opened  the  unexpanded  blossom  of  the 
variety  destined  to  be  the  female  parent  of  the  expected 
progeny,  and  with  a  pair  of  fine-pointed  scissors,  cut 
away  all  the  stamens,  while  the  anthers  were  yet  un- 
ripe, taking  care  to  leave  the  style  and  the  stigma  un- 
injured. When  the  female  blossom,  thus  prepared, 
came  naturally  to  expand,  the  blossoms  of  the  other 
variety  destined  to  be  the  male  parent  were  applied. 
Mr.  Knight  has  often  remarked  in  the  progeny  a  strong 
prevalence  of  the  constitution  and  habits  of  the  female 
parent :  in  this  country,  therefore,  in  experimenting  on 
pears,  the  pollen  of  the  more  delicate  French  kinds, 
such  as  Crasanne,  Colmar,  and  Chaumontelle,  should 


36  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

be  dusted  upon  the  flowers  (always  deprived  of  stamens) 
of  the  Mujrfowl  egg,  the  Grej  Achan,  the  Green  Yair, 
or  others,  that  are  hardj,  or  of  British  origin. 

As  this  is  a  subject  of  interest,  we  may  state  some  of 
the  precautions  adopted  by  Mr.  Knight  and  his  follow- 
ers, in  conducting  their  experiments.  It  is,  in  the  first 
place,  a  rule  to  employ  seeds  of  the  finest  kinds  of  fruit, 
and  to  take  them  from  the  largest,  ripest,  and  best  fla- 
vored specimens  of  the  fruit.  "When  Mr.  Knight 
washed  to  procure  some  of  the  old  apples  in  a  healthy 
and  renovated  state,  he  prepared  stocks  of  such  good 
sorts  as  could  be  propagated  from  cuttings ;  he  planted 
them  against  a  south  wall  in  rich  soil,  and  then  grafted 
them  with  the  kind  required.  In  the  following  winter 
the  young,  trees  were  taken  up,  their  roots  retrenched, 
and  then  replanted  in  the  same  place,  by  which  mode  of 
treatment  they  were  thrown  -into  bearing  when  only  two 
years  old.  Not  more  than  a  couple  of  apples. were 
allowed  to  remain  on  each  tree,  and  these,  in  conse- 
quence, attained  a  larger  size  and  more -perfect  maturity. 
The  seeds  of  these  apples  were  then  sown,  in  the  hope 
of  procuring  an  equally  excellent  offspring.  In  the 
case  of  cross-impregnation,  every  seed,  though  taken 
from  the  same  fruit,  produces-  a  different  variety,  and 
these  varieties,  as  might  be  anticipated,  prove  to  be  of 
very  various  merit.  In  general  those  seeds  are  to  be 
preferred  which  are  plump  and  round.  An  estimate  of 
the  value  of  the  seedling  trees. may  be  formed,  even 
during  the  first  summer  of  their  growth,  from  the  re- 
semblance they  bear,  in  bud  and  foliage,  to  highly  cul- 
tivated and  approved  trees*  The  leaves  of  promising 
seedlings  improve  in  character,  becoming  thicker,  round- 
er, and  more  downy  every  season.     Those  whose  buds 


PROPAGATION  BY  SEEDS.  37 

in  the  annual  wood  are  full  and  prominent,  generally 
prove  more  productive  than  those  whose  buds  are  small 
and  seemingly  shrunk  into  the  bark.  Early  flowering 
and  hardy  blossoms  are  desirable  characters.  It  has 
been  observed,  that  even  after  a  seedling  tree  has  com- 
menced bearing,  its  fruit  has  a  tendency  to  improve  as 
the  tree  itself  acquires  vigor,  so  that,  if,  in  the  first 
season,  there  is  any  considerable  promise,  a  great  me- 
lioration may  be  expected  in  succeeding  years. 

The  slowness  with  which  seedlings  reach  the  bearing 
state  has  been  the  subject  .of  complaint  among  horti- 
culturists, and  indeed  is  the  principal  reason  why  this 
mode  of  propagation  has  not  been  more  frequently 
practiced.  According  to  Mr.  Knight,  the  pear  requires 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  years  to  reach  the  age  of  pu- 
berty;  the  apple  from  five  to  twelve  or  thirteen  years; 
the  plum  or  cherry  four  or  five  ;  the  vine  three  or 
four ;  the  raspberry  two  years.  The  peach  he  found 
to  bear  in  two,  three,  or  four  years.  The  period, 
however,  must  depend  greatly  on  the  soil,  situation, 
and  mode  of  culture.  In  the  warm  and  highly- 
manured  garden  of  M.  Van  Mens  at  Brussels  (called 
Pepiniere  de  la  Fidelite,  1816),  seedling  pear-trees 
produced  fruit  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  sixth 
and  seventh  summers.  The  great  means  of  accele- 
rating the  epoch  of  bearing  seems  to  be,  to  make  the 
trees  grow  vigorously  when  young.  Crude  manures 
are  indeed  to  be  avoided  ;  but  vegetable  earth,  and, 
above  all,  a  liberal  supply  of  rotted  turf,  are  whole- 
some and  excellent  stimulants.  The  seed-bed,  and 
the  ground  on  which  the  seedlings  are  transplanted, 
should    be    extremely    well    worked    and   comminuted 

with  the  spade,  and  should  not  be  too  much  exposed 

4* 


38  FRUn  GARDEN. 

to  the  parching  rays  of  the  sun  and  withering  action 
of  the  wind.  Great  care  ought  to  be  taken  to  prevent 
the  young  plants  from  becoming  stunted.  In  pruning, 
the  small  twigs  in  the  interior  should  be  removed,  so 
as  to  relieve  the  tree  from  the  bushy  appearance  which 
it  is  apt  to  assume.  It  has  been  recommended  to 
transfer  cions  and  buds  of  promising  individuals  into 
other  trees  in  a  bearing  state.  This  is  peculiarly  ad- 
vantageous with  respect  to  the  peach  and  other  stone 
fruits,  as  it  both  hastens  the  period  of  puberty,  and 
economizes  the  space  which  must  be  occupied,  especially 
where  these  are  on  a  wall. 

Propagation  hy  Cuttings. — Gooseberries,  currants, 
figs,  vines,  and  some  others,  are  increased  by  means  of 
cuttings.  An  annuai  ^hoot  is  taken  oJBf  along  with  a 
thin  slice,  or  Jieel,  as  it  is  called,  of  the  former  year's 
wood,  which  is  found  to  facilitate  the  production  of 
roots.  The  cuttings  are  placed  firmly  in  the  soil,  at 
various  depths,  according  to  their  length,  the  buds  or 
eyes  which  would  thus  come  beneath  the  surface  having 
been  previously  removed.  Vines  are  sometimes  pro- 
pagated from  small  pieces  of  shoots  having  a  single 
bud;  when  they  have,  to  be  transmitted  to  a  distance, 
an  inch  in  length  may  suffice.  Most  of  the.  codlin 
apples  may  be  increased  by  cuttings  ;  and  even  large 
branches  of  those  which  produce  burs  may  be  planted 
at  once,  with  success.  In  all  deciduous  trees  the  ope- 
ration is  most  advantageously  performed  in  winter. 

Propagation  by  Layers. — This  is  not  much  resorted 
to  in  the  fruit  garden.  It  is  occasionally  employed  as 
the  means  of  dwarfing  trees.  "Laying,"  say^  Pro- 
fessor Lindley,  "  is  nothing  but  striking^  from  cuttings 
which   are   still   allowed  to  maintain  their  connection 


PROPAGATION  BY  GRAFTING.  39 

with  the  mother  plant  by  means  of  a  portion  at  least 
of  their  stem."  The  operation  is  performed  by  bend- 
ing down  a  branch  to  the  earth,  and  pinning  it  there 
with  hooked  pegs.  A  few  inches  from  the  extremity 
a  notch  or  slit  is.  cut  upwards,  generally  from  the 
insertion  of  a  bud.  Sometimes  the  shoot  is  pierced 
w^ith  a  number  of  holes  ;  a  wire  is  bound  round  it ;  or 
even  a  ring  of  bark  is  removed.  The  object  of  these 
expedients  is  to  retard  the  descending  sap,  and  thus 
promote  the  formation  of  radicles,  or  young  roots. 
This  is  also  aided  by  bending  the  branch  upward  from 
the  point  at  which  the  roots  are  wanted ;  and  the 
whole  branch,  except  a  few  buds  at  the  extremity,  is 
cover-ed  with  soil.'  The  seasons  best  fitted  for  these 
operations  are  early  in  spring  and  about  midsummer, 
that  is  before  the,  sap  begins  to  flow,  and  after  it  has 
completely  ascended.  One  whole  summer,  sometimes 
two  summers,  must  elapse  before  the  layers  can  be.  ex- 
pected to  be  fully  rooted,  or  ready  to  be  taken  off. 

Propagation  hy  G-7'afting. — When  a  shoot  or  young 
branch  of  one  tree  is  inserted  into  the  stem  or  branch 
of  another,  and,  by  the  influence  of  vegetation,  is  made 
to  coalesce  with  it,  the  process  is  termed  grafting.  In 
this  manner  apple  and  pear-trees  are  commf)nly  pro- 
pagated; plum  and  cherry-trees  are  sometimes  also 
grafted,  but  these  last  are  most  generally  propagated 
by  budding.  Our  attention  must  here  be  directed  to 
the  stoohs  into  which  the  shoots  or  cions,  as  they  are 
called,  are  inserted  ;  to  the  cmns  themselves,  and  to  the 
mechanical  6>2:>eratzons -employed  in  grafting. 

The  stocTcs  should  be  of  the  same  genus  to  which  the 
graft  belongs,  or^  at  least,  of  close  afiBnity  in  natural 
family.       The    following    are    the    principal    kinds    of 


40  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

stocks,  including,  by  anticipation,  such  as  are  used  in 
budding.  For  apples^  seedlings  of  the  crab  apple, 
layers  of  the  doucin  or  paradise,  and  of  the.codlins, 
with  cuttings  of  the  bur-knot  varieties.  For  'pears, 
seedlings  of  the  common  and  wilding  pear  ;  with  seed- 
lings or  layers  of  quince.  For  j^^ums,  seedlings  of 
any  of  the  common  sorts,  particularly  the  Brussels, 
and  the  Brompton ;  also  the  Bullace  plum.  For 
cherries,  seedlings  of  the  small  black  cherry  or  gean, 
Prunus  Avium  ;  and,  for  dwarfing,  P.  Mahaleb.  For 
apricots,  seedlings  of  the  wilding  apricot,  with  the 
muscle  and  Brussels  plum.  For  |?ea(?Aes  and  necta- 
rines, seedlings  of  the  muscle,  white  pear-plum,  and 
Damas  noir  plum,  the  almond,  and  the  wilding  peach. 

Stocks  are  commonly  divided  into  two  classes,  viz., 
free  stocks  and  dwarfing  stocks.  The  former  consist  of 
Needling  plants,  which  naturally  attain  to  the  same  size 
as  the  trees  from  which  the  cions  are  taken.  The  latter 
are  plants  of  diminutive  growth,  either  varieties  of  the 
same  species,  or  species  of  the  same  genus  a&  the  cion, 
which  have  a  tendency  to  lessen  the  expansion  of  the 
engrafted  tree.  The  Paradise  or  doucin  is  the  usual 
dwarfing  stock  for  apples,  the  Quince  for  pears,  the 
Bullace  for  plums,  and  Prunus  Mahaleb  (Cerasus  Ma- 
haleb, or  sweet-scented  cherry),  for  cherries.  The 
nature  of  the  soil  in  which  the  grafted  trees  are  des- 
tined to  grow  should  also  have  weight  in  determining 
the  choice  of  stocks.  When  the  garden  is  naturally 
moist,  it  is  proper  to  graft  pears  on  the  quince,  because 
this  plant  agrees  with  a  moist  soil,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  luxuriance  thereby  produced  is  checked  by  the 
stock.  In  France,  peaches  are  commonly  budded  on 
almond  stocks,  to  adapt  them  to  the  dry  soils  of  that 


PROPAGATION  BY  GRAPTING.  41 

country.  The  seeds  from  which  stocks  are  to  "be  raised 
are  generally  sown  in  beds  in  March  ;  but  the  germi- 
nation of  some  kinds  is  promoted  by 'placing  the  seed, 
for  a  time,  in  damp  sand  in  a  green-house.  Next 
season  the  seedlings  are  transplanted  into  nursery  rows, 
in  which  they  are  allowed  to  reach  the  size  necessary 
for  the  various  forms  of  fruit-trees  hereafter  to  be 
mentioned. 

The  cion  is  always  a  portion  of  the  wood  of  the  pre- 
ceding year.  As  the  diseases  incident  to  fruit  trees 
are  apt  to  be  transmitted  by  this  mode  of  propagation, 
it  is  desirable  that  the.  parents  should  be  as  healthy  as 
possible.  In  the  shy-bearing  kinds  it  has  been  found 
beneficial  to  select  shoots  from  the  fruitful  branches. 
The  cions  should  be  taken  off  some  weeks  before  they 
be  wanted,  and  half-buried  in  the  earth,  as  it  is  con- 
ducive to  success  that  the  stock  should,  in  forwardness 
of  vegetation,  be  somewhat  in  advance  of  the  graft. 
During  winter,  grafts  may  be  transferred  from  great 
distances,  as  from  America,  or  any  part  of  the  Conti- 
nent of  Europe,  if  carefully  wrapped  up  in  hypnum 
moss.  If  they  have  been  six  weeks  or  two  months 
separated  from  the  parent  plant,  they  should  be  grafted 
low  on-  the  stock,^and  the  earth  should  be  ridged  up 
around  them,  leaving  only  one  bud  of  the  cion  above 
ground.  Out^of  forty  cions  of  new  Flemish  pears,  pro- 
cured by  the  deputation  of  the  Caledonian  Horticultural 
Society  from  Brussels  and  Louvain,  in  1817,  and  treated 
in  this  way,  only  one  failed.* 

^  Among  these  were  Beurre  Ranz,  Marie  Louise,  Capiaumont, 
Napoleon,  Delices  d'Hardenpont,  Passe  Colmar,  and  some  others, 
AYhich  have  acquired  a  high  character  in  this  country. 


42  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Success  in  grafting  depends  almost  entirely  on  ac- 
curately applying  the  inner  bark  of  the  cion  to  the  inner 
"bark  of  the  stock,  so  that  the  sap  may  pass  freely  from 
the  one  to  the  other.  They  are  therefore  fitted  together, 
and  held  fast  by  a  bandage  of  strips  of  bast-matting. 
To  lessen  evaporation,  a  portion  of  ductile  clay  is 
moulded  around  the  place  of  junction,  and  is  retained 
until  it  appears,  from  the  development  of  leaves,  that 
the  operation  has  succeeded.  The  best  season  for 
grafting  is  the  month  of  March ;  but  it  may  be  com- 
menced as  soon  as  the  Isap  in  the  stock  is  fairly  in 
motion,  and  may  be  continued  during  the  first  half  of 
April. 

The  most  usual  mode  of  grafting  is  cd^Wedi  whip  graft- 
ing, or  tongue  grafting,  a,  h.  The  top  of  the  stock  and 
the  base  of  the  cion  are  cut  ofi"  obliquely  at  correspond- 
ing angles,  as  nearly  as  can  be  guessed  by  the  eye ;  the 
tip  of  the  stock  is  then  cut  off  horizontally ;  next  a  slit 
is  made  downwards  in  the  centre  of  the  sloping  face  of 
the  stock,  and  a  corresponding  slit  upwards  in  the  cor- 
responding face  of  the  cion.  The  tongue  or  upper  part 
of  this  sloping  base  is  then  inserted  into  tha  cleft  of 
the  cion,  and  so  adjusted  that  the  inner  bark  may  unite 
neatly  and  exactly  on  one  side.  The  junction  is  then 
tied  up  and  covered  with  clay.  Several  other  methods 
may  be  mentioned,  such  as  cleft-graftiiig,  c,  d,  e,  in 
which  the  cion  is  sloped  at  the  base,  and  inserted  like  a 
wedge  into  a  cleft  in  the  stock.  Side-grafting  (Fig.  2), 
f,g,  which  resembles  whip-grafting,  but  is  performed  on 
the  side  of  the  stock  without  heading  it  down.  Orown- 
grafting,  in  which  the  cions,  m,  f,  are  inserted  between 
the  bark  and  the  wood  of  the  stock.     Grafting  hy  ap- 


PROPAGATION  BY  GRAFTING. 
Fi.sf.  1. 


43 


proach,  or  inarching,  resembling  whip-grafting,  but  the 
cion  h  remains  attached  to  the  parent  plant,  till  its 
union  at  h  and  I  with  the  new  stock  i  be  complete  ;  when 

Fig.  2. 


that  portion  of  the  stock  above  the  union  may  be  headed" 
down,  and  the  cion  at  the  same  time  detached  from  the 
parent  plant. 


44  '      FRUIT  GARDEN. 

It  is  evident  that  the  method  of  j^erforming  the 
operation  may  be  diversified  to  a  great  extent.  The 
late  M;  Thouin/of  Paris,  described,  in  the  Aniiales  du 
Museum,  nearly  fifty  greffes;  but  little  practical  utility 
results  from  such  nice  distinctions.  It  is  of  great  im- 
portance that  the  horticulturist  should  be  expert -in 
the  manipulation  of  the  more  common  forms,  such  as 
those  above  enumerated^  An  extensive  fruit  garden 
requires  a  frequent  repetition  of  the  operation,  in  order 
to  secure  proper  kinds,  and  ^productive  branches.  At 
Dalkeith  Park,  the  late  Mr.^  Macdonald,  .th.e  excellent 
head-gardener  there,  was  in  the  practice  of  annually 
inserting,  on  his  established  trees,  numerous  grafts,  and 
by  this  means  was  enabled  to  overcome  the  disadvantages 
of  a  somewhat  unfavorable- situation,  especially  in- re- 
gard to  subsoil,  and  to  obtain  abundant  crops  of  large 
and  beautiful  fruit. 

Root-grafting  is  performed  in  the  modes  just  de- 
scribed, only  placing  the  -cion  on  a  piece  of  root  (as 
a  stalk),  of  proper  thickness,  and  having  fibres  and 
fibrils  attached  to  it.  In  the  most  unfavorable  soils, 
some  sort  of  fruit-trees  thrive  better  than  others ;  and 
it  has  been  suggested,  that  by  using  root-stocks  of  such 
flourishing  trees,  and  grafting  other  desirable  kind&  on 
them,  canker  may  often  be  avoided,  and  the  better  kinds 
of  fruit  produced.        _  *   .  . 

Propagation  hy  Budding. — Most,kinds  of'fruit-trees 
maybe  propagated  by  budding;  and  there  are  some, 
such  as  peaches  and  apricots,  which  can  scarcely  be 
multiplied  in  any  other  manner.  It  consists  in  remov- 
ing a  bud  with  a  portion  of  the  bark  from  o-ne  tree,  and 
inserting  it  in  a  slit  of  the  bark  of  another  tree.  The 
season    for  performing    this    operation  is    in    July  or 


PROPAGATION  BY  BUDDING. 


45 


August,  when  the  buds  destined  for  the  following  year 
are  completely  formed  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  and 
when  the  portion  of  bark  parts  freely  from  the  wood 
beneath.  The  buds  to  be  preferred  are  those  on  the 
middle  of  a  young  shoot.  There  are  many  forms  of 
budding,  but  that  which  is  simplest,  and  is  generally 
practiced  in  this  country,  called  Shield-budding,  need 
alone  be  described.  The  operator  should  be  provided 
with  a  budding-knife,  in  which  the  cutting  edge  of  the 
blade  is  rounded  off  at  the  point,  and  which  has  a  thin 
ivory  or  bone  handle,  like  a  paper-folder,  for  raising  the 
bark  of  the  stock.  A  horizontal  or  transversa  incision 
is  made  in  the  bark  quite  down  to  the  wood,  and  from 
this  incision  a  perpendicular  slit  is  drawn  downwards,  to 
the  extent  of  perhaps  an  inch.  The  slit  (Fig.  3)  has  now 
a  resemblance  to  the  letter  T,  q;  a  bud  is  then  cut  from 
the  tree  wished  to  be  propagated,  having  a  portion  of 
the  wood  attached  to  it,  so  that  the  whole  may  be  an 


inch  and  a  half  lor.g,  as  at  s. 


The  bit  of  wood  is  then 
gently  withdrawn,  care  being  taken  th.,  .  the  bud  ad- 
here wholly  to  the  bark  or  shield,  as  it  is  called,  as  at 


46  FRUIT  GARDEX. 

r,  which  is  the  reverse  of  s.  The  bark  on  each  side  of 
the  perpendicular  slit  being  cautiously  opened  with  the 
handle  of  the  knife,  the  bud  and  shield  are  inserted,  as 
at  t.  The  upper  tip  of  the  shield  is  cut  oflf  horizontally, 
and  brought  neatly  to  fit  the  bark  of  the  stock  at  the 
transverse  incision.  Slight  ties  of  moist  bast-matting 
are  then  applied.  In  about  a  month  or  six  weeks  the 
ligatures  may  be  taken  away,  when,  if  the  operation 
have  been  successful,  the  bud  will  be  fresh  and  full,  and 
the  shield  firmly  united  to  the  wood.  Next  spring  a 
strong  shoot  is  thrown  out,  and  to  this  the  stock  is 
headed  down  in  the  course  of  the  summer. 
-  Planting. — After  propagation,  the  next  care  is  to 
transfer  the  young  trees  to  those  places,  whether  in  the 
open  border  or  against  the  wall,  where  they  are  to  re- 
main ;  and  it  is  of  importance  that  these  situations 
should  be  considerately  selected;  adapting  the  trees,  ac- 
cording to  th,eir  character  and  qualities,  to  sites  suit- 
able in  respect  of  ^oil,  shelter,  and  aspect.  Planting 
ma.y  be  performed  at  any  time  in  the  beginning  of  win- 
ter, or  in  the  early  spring  months ;  but  it  is  considered 
that  the  most  advantageous  seasons  are  iinmediately 
after  the  fall  of  the  leaf  in  autumn,  and  before  the  as- 
cent of  the  sap  in  spring.  The  trees  should  be  cau- 
tiously lifted  from  the  nursery  lines,  carefully  guarding 
against  the. 'mutilation  or  bruising  of  the  roots;  andy 
to  prevent  the  desiccation  of  the  fibres,  they  should  be 
planted  as  soon  as  possible  after  being  lifted.  When 
they  have  to  be  carried  to  a  distance,  the  roots  should 
be  enveloped  in  damp  hypnum-moss.  In  the  ground, 
which. is  presumed  to  have  been  previously  trenched  or 
otherwise  prepared,  pits  or  holes  are  formed,  and  the 


PLANTING.  47 

soil  is  finely  pulverized ;  and  in  the&^p  the  trees  are 
placed,  their  roots  being  spread  out  and  intermingled 
with  the  earth.  Shallow  planting  is  strongly  recom- 
mended; two  or  three  inches  of  soil  bein^  in  general  a 
sufficient  covering.  The  doucin  or  French  paradise 
stocks  are  preferable  for  this  reason,  that  they  throw 
out  delicate  fibres  which  readily"  spread  along  the  sur- 
face, instead  of  bundles  of  hard  roots  which  generally 
characterize  crab  stocks.  On  filling  up  the  hole,  a  sur- 
face of  at  least  an  equal  size  is  mulched,  that  is,  covered 
with  dung  or  litter,  so  as  to  restrain  evaporation,  and 
preserve  moisture.  In  the.  case  of  wall-trees,  a  space 
of  five  or  six  inches  is  usually  left  between  the  stem  at 
the  insertion  of  the  roots  and  the  wall,  to  allow  for  the 
effects  of  growth.  Young  standard  trees  are  tied  to 
stakes,  to  prevent  their  roots  being  ruptured  -by  the 
wind-waving  of  the  stems.  During  the  dry  weather  of 
the  first  summer,  the  trees  should  be  watered  from 
time  to  time  as  occasion  may  require. 

,  The  selection  and  distribution  of  the  different  kinds 
of  fruit-trees  is  an  important  and  interesting  point  in 
the  formation  of- a  garden.  Regard  must  necessarily 
be  had  to  local  situation  and  climate,  as  the  selection 
ought  manifestly  to  be  different  for  a  garden  in  the 
south-west  of  England,  and  for  one  in  Yorkshire  or  in 
Scotland.  The  finer  varieties  of  French  and  Flemish 
pears  require  and  deserve  a  good  aspect,  as  also  the 
early  sorts  of  cherries.  The  later  cherries,  and  the 
generality  of  plums,  succeed  very  well  either  oh  an  east 
or  west  aspect,  in  Scotland :  and  here  the  mulberry  re-, 
quires  the  protection  of  a  wall,  and  several  of  the  finer 
apples  do  not  arrive  at  perfection  without  it. 

The  wall- trees  which  are  intended  to  be  permanent 


48  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

are  called  dwarf s^  from  their  being  grafted  near  the 
ground.  Between  each  of  these,  trees  with  tall  stems, 
called  riders  in  Scotland,  are  planted  as  temporary  oc- 
cupants of  the  upper  part  of  the  wall.  The  riders 
should  always  be  five  or  six  years  trained  in  the  nur- 
sery, in  order  that  when  they  are  planted  out  they  may 
come  into  bearing  as  speedily  as  possible.  The  dis- 
tance at  which  the  permanent  trees  are  planted  is  to  be 
regulated  by  the  known  mode  of  growth  of  the  different 
sorts,  and  by  the  height  of  the  wall.  When  the  walls 
are  about  twelve  feet  high,  the  following  average  dis- 
tances have  been  recommended: — For  vines,  10  or  12 
feet;  peach  and  nectarine-trees,  from  15  to  20  feet; 
fig-trees,  20  feet  at  least;  apricots,  from  15  to  24  feet; 
plums  and  cherries,  from  15  to  20  feet ;  pear-trees,  20 
feet  if  on  quince  stocks,  and  30  feet  when  on  free  stocks; 
apple-trees,  12  feet  if  on  paradise  stocks,  and  15  to  25 
feet  when  on  free  stocks.  Where  the  walls  are  only 
seven  or  eight  feet  high,  the  distance  should  be  increased 
by  nearly  one-fourth,  as  in  this  case  the  want  of  height 
must  be  compensated  by  greater  breadth. 

Apples  and  pears  make  the  best  espalier  rail-trees, 
especially  in  Scotland.  These  should  be  of  the  more 
robust  sorts,  and  should  be  planted  at  the  distance  of 
15  or  20  feet.  Cherries  and  plums  are  sometimes  in- 
troduced into  the  espalier-rail  row,  but  these  succeed  in 
those  situations  only  where  they  would  do  equally  well 
or  better  as  standards. 

In  many  excellent  gardens,  dwarf  standards  are  pre- 
ferred to  espalier  rail-trees.  They  are  placed  along  the 
inner  borders  at  8  or  10  feet  apart.  When  proper  at- 
tention is  paid  to  such  trees,  the  effect  is  very  pleasing, 
each  being  in  itself  a  handsome  object,  and  generally 


TEAINING  OF  STANDARDS.  49 

clothed  with  fine  fruit.  Where  the  situation  is  warm, 
and  the  climate  favorable,  a  few  of  such  of  the  fin.er 
pear-trees  as  have  hardy  blossoms  should  be  planted 
out  in  this  form.  Though  they  may  fail  to  ripen  their 
fruit  in  some  seasons,  they  will  often  add  greatly  to  the 
resources  of  the  fruit-room,  their  produce  being  fre- 
quently superior  in  flavor  to  the  pears  grown  against 
walls. 

Training. — Two  functions  belong  to  training — that, 
namely,  which  modifies  the  form  of  the  trees,  and  that 
W'hich  regulates  the  bearing  -^Vood,  and  consequently 
the  supply  of  blossom.  The  latter,  more  accurately 
termed  pruning,  being  of  a  varied  character,  adapted 
to  the  habits  of  the  difi'erent  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  will 
more  properly  fait  to  be  considered  when  treating  of  the 
peach,  pear,  plum,  &:c. ;  at  present  we  shall  make  a  few- 
remarks  on  the  former.  The  essential  properties  of 
training  are,  that  it  should  be  simple,  not  requiring  fre- 
quent amputation  of  large  branches ;  that  it  should  be 
appropriate  to  the  growth  of  the  tree,  and  such  as  to 
promote  the  production  of  fruit.  The  knife  is  the  great 
instrument  in  training,  and  vrhoever  can  wield  it  skil- 
fully will  have  a  perfect  command  over  his  trees:  at- 
the  same  time,  it  tnay  be  laid  down  as-  a  inaxim,  that 
it  should  be  used  with  some  degree  of  reserve,  as  no- 
thing is  more  prejudicial  to  the  health  and  fruitfulness 
of  all  sorts  of  trees  than  severe  and  injudicious  cut- 
ting. 

Training  of  Standards. — Orchard-trees  ai'e  generally 
worked  in  the  nurseries  with  stems  five  or  six  feet  high. 
All  that  is  ^necessary  in  pruning  trees  of  this  sort,  is 
merely  to  cut  out  thabranches  which  cross  or  press  upon 
one  another.     Bushy  heads  should  be  thinned  out,  and 


50 


FRUIT  GARDEN. 


those  which  are  too  lax  cut  back.  Three  or  four  lead- 
ing branches  may  be  selected,  to  pass  ere  long  into 
boughs,  and  form  a  handsome  skeleton  for  the  tree ;  but 
it  is  useless  to  be  over-nice  in  this  matter,  as  these 
branches  will  soon  grow  beyond  the  power  or  regula- 
tion of  the  pruner,.  and  of  any  artificial  system  which 
he  may  adopt.  Dwarf  standards  being  more  accessible, 
are  more  under  the  dominion  of  training.  When  worked 
on  paradise  stocks,  they  maybe  kept  not  much  superior 
in  size  to  gooseberry  bushes,  and  in  a  state  of  abundant 
fruitfulness.  The  more  fanciful  Dutch  modes  of  train- 
ing apple-trees  in  the  cup  and  the  ball  fashion,  and  after 
many  other  curious  devices,  have  never  been  relished  in 
Britain.  In  this  country  they  are  generally  allowed 
to  grow  en  huisson,  that  is,  as  bushes.  For  pears,  the 
French  forms,  en  pyramide^  or  pyramid  shape  (Fig.  4), 
and  en  qirenouille,  or  distaff  shaped  (Fig.  5),  are  justly 
gaining  ground. 

Fig  4.  Fig.  5. 


BRARY. 

Dioisioii  of  Horkiculhire 


TRAINING.  51 

Training  of  Espalier  Rail-Trees. — The  usual  form  is 
the  horizontal ;  that  is,  from  an  upright  stem,  branches 
are  led  right  and  left  along  the  rails.  Some  prefer 
having  two  stems,  thus  diverting  the  upright  current  of 
the  sap  into  two  channels,  and  producing  a  somewhat 
lower  growth,  which  is  favorable  to  fruitfulness.  Es- 
palier rail-trees  have  a  uniform  tendency  to  throw  out 
a  luxuriant  crop  of  upright  summer  shoots ;  and  this  is 
to  be  prevented  by  disbudding,  or  rubbing  off  numerous 
buds,  as  they  appear  from  April  till  June.  Close  well- 
placed  spurs  are  encouraged,  as  from  these  the  fruit  is 
expected. 

Training  of  Wall-  Trees. — A  fruit-tree  planted  against 
a  wall  is  evidently  in  a  constrained  and  artificial  situa- 
tion, from  which  it  makes  continual  efforts  to  escape. 
Much  attention  is  necessary  to  repress  this  tendency, 
which,  were  it  permitted  to  act,  would  disfigure  the  tree, 
and  neutralize  the  advantages  of  a  wall,  without  im- 
parting in  their  place  the  freedom  of  a  standard  in  the 
open  ground.  To  be  successful,  the  operator  should 
be  acquainted  with  the  theory  of  vegetation,  should 
study  the  mode  of  growth  in  different  trees,  and,  above 
all,  remember  the  purpose  of  all  training,  viz.,  the  elicit- 
ing of  bearing  wood. 

One  great  difficulty  is  to  preserve  equilibrium  in  the 
growth  of  the  several  parts  of  the  same  tree-:  for  the  at- 
tainment of  this  object,  excellent  hints  are  to  be  found 
in  the  Pomone.  Francais :  we  shall  mention  only  two 
or  three.  A  shoot  w^ill  grow  more  vigorously  whilst 
waving  in  the  air  than  when  nailed  close  to  the  wall ; 
a  weak  shoot  should  therefore  be  left  free,  whilst  a 
stronger  antagonist  should  be  restrained.  A  shoot  di- 
verging only  slightly  from  the  perpendicular  will,  other 


52 


FRUIT  GARDEN. 


things  being  equal,  obtain  a  more  copious  supply  of  sap 
than  one  that  is  laid-  out  horizontally,  or  is  deflected 
dDwnwards.  A  luxuriant  shoot  may  be  retarded  for 
some  time,  by  having  its  tender  extremity  pinched  off, 
and  a  weaker  brother  thus  allowed  to  overtake  it.  By 
these  and  other  expedients,  which  will  suggest  them- 
selves to  an  attentive  horticulturist,  and  by  the  prudent 
use  of  theknife,  it  will  be  easy  to  execute  the  following 
forms,  which,  on  account  of  their  simplicity  and  general 
excellence,  w^e  select  out  of  many  to  be  found  detailed 
in  works  on  gardening. 

The  liorizontal  farm  (Fig.  6)  has  long  been  a  favor- 
ite in  this  country,  having  been  strongly  recommended 
in  the  excellent  work  of  Mr.  Hitt.*  There  is  one 
principal  ascending  stem,  from  which  the  branches 
dfepart  -at  right-angles,  at  intervals  often  inches  or  a  foot. 
In  order  to  produce  this  form,  the  vertical   shoot  is,  in 


Fig.  6. 


trees  of  ordinary  vigor,  cut  back  every  winter  to  within 
fourteen  inches  of  the  highest  pair  of  branches  ;  a  num- 

^  Treatise  on  Fruit-Trees^  by  Thomas  Hitt.  .8yo.  1756. 


TRAINING. 


53 


ber  of  shoots  are  produced  in  the  beginning  of  each  sum- 
mer, out  of  which  three  are  selected:  one  is  trained  in 
the  original  direction  of  the  stem,  and  one  on  each  side 
of  it,  parallel  to  the  base  of  the  wall.  By  pinching  off 
the  point  of  the  leading  shoot  about  midsummer,  another 
pair  may  be  obtained  in  autumn.  In  luxuriant  trees, 
the  vertical  shoot  may  be  left  two  feet  in  length,  by 
which  means,  and  by  summer  pruning,  four  pairs  of 
branches  may  sometimes  be  added  in  one  season.  The 
great  object,  at  first,  ought  to  be  to  draw  the  stem  up- 
w^ards :  when  it  has  reached  the  top  of  the  wall,  it  is 
made  to  divaricate  into  two,  and  the  tree,  thus  completed 
as  to  its  height,  is  henceforth  suffered  to  increase  in 
breadth  only.  Horizontal  training  is  best  adapted  to 
those  trees  which  produce  strong  shoots,  as  the  Ribston 
Pippin  apple,  or  the  Gansel's  Bergamot  pear.  For  the 
more  twiggy  kinds,  the  form  represented  in  Fig.  7  is 
more  suitable.  In  this  the  horizontal  branches  are 
eighteen  or  twenty  inches  distant,  and  the  small  shoots 


Fi-;  7. 


Fffrmm 
wm 


TTTTTfWm 


are  trained  in   between  them,  either  on  both   sides,  as 
below  letter  a  in    the  figure,  or  on  the  under  side  and 


54 


FRUIT  GARDEN. 


downwards  as  below  h.  This  last- is  an  excellent  me- 
thod of  reclaiming  neglected  trees  of  this  description. 
Every  alternate  branch  being  taken  away,  and  the  spurs 
cut  off,  the  young  shoots  are  trained  in,  and .  soon  pro- 
duce good  fruit.  It  is  rather  singuh,T,  that  the  late  M. 
Thouin,  in  his  account  of  the  Ecole  cVITorticulture 
practique  du  Museum^  classes  the  horizontal  form  among 
les  tallies  lieteroclites^  and  says,  that,  in  consequence  of 
its  invariably  producing'  a  tete  de  saule,  that  is,  a  hedge 
of  young  shoots  at  the' top,  it  has  been  long  since  aban- 
doned. From  this  remark,  we  cannot  help  drawing  the 
conclusion,  that  in  France,  th.e  theory  of  training  must 
be  in  advance  of  the  practice. 

The  other  principal  form  is  called  /aw-training.  In 
this  there  is  no  .leading  stem,  and  the  branches  are  ar- 
ranged somewhat  like  the  spokes  of  a  fan.  Fig.  8  re- 
presents this  shape  as  it  commonly  occurs  in  gardens. 
In  the  case  of  apple  and  pear-trees,  this  mode,  though 
frequently  adopted,  is  not  superior,  perhaps  not  even 

Fig.  8. 


equal,    to  the  horizontal  configijrafion  :    it  is  evident, 
that  when  the  branches  reach  the  top  of  the  wall,  where 


TRAINING. 


55 


they  must  be  cut  short,  a  tete  de  satdc  is  inevitable.  It 
would  be  better  to  adopt  the  modification  of  the  fan 
shape  used  for  stone  fruits  (Fig.  9);  to  establish  a  cer- 


Fii 


tain  number  of  mother  branches,  ^nd  on  these  to  form 
a  series  of  subordinate  members,  chiefly  composed  of 
bearing  wood.  The  mother  bran,ches  Or  limbs  should 
not  be  numerous,  but  well  marked,  equal  in  strength, 
and  regularly  disposed'.  The  side  hranches  should  be 
pretty  abundant,  short,  and  not  so  vigorous  as  to  rival 
the  leading  members.  To  insure  regularity,  training 
should  commence  with  maiden  plants,  or  such  as  have 
only  one  year's  growth  from  the  graft ;  leaders  of  equal 
strength  should  be  selected,  and  encouraged  to  grow 
out  longitudinally  as  much  as  possible,  and  all  crowding 
among  the  inferior  shoots  should  be  prevented*  In 
riders,  this  form  passes  into  the  stellar  arrangement. 
The  French  have  made  considerable  improvements  in 
this  mode  of  training,  some  of  which  will  be  noticed 
under  the  article  Peach. 

Intermediate  between  horizontal  and  fan-training  is 
the  haJf-fan,  described  in  the  first  volume  of  the  Cale- 


5Q  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

donian  Horticultural  Society's  Memoirs,  by  Mr.  Smith, 
gardener  at  Hopetoun-House,  and  practiced  by  him 
with  great  success.  It  is  nearly  allied  to  the  horizon- 
tal form,  but  the  branches  form  an  acute  angle  with  the 
stem,  and  this  disposition  is  supposed  to  favor  the  equal 
distribution  of  the  sap.  In  the  winter  pruning,  three 
and  sometimes  four  central  branches  are  cut  back ;  the 
shoots  which  arise  from  these  are  arranged  in  the  fan 
order,  and,  as  they  elongate,  are  gradually  brought  into 
the  horizontal  position.  The  tree  is  finished  at  top  as 
in  the  horizontal  form.  Sometimes,  as  in  Fig.  10,  two 
vertical  stems  are  adopted.  For  vigorous  trees,  this 
figure  seems  to  combine  the  advantages  of  both  the 
foregoing  varieties. 

Fig.  10. 


>-'--- -^^^.^^T^^^^Sd  i  j'^^^^^^Zl. 


'..'     ^    ^.     J)    i:^-^  ^''^   '"-^j  1   i  ,  ^^^=5^=^=^%=^^^:^:,^--^- 


The  choice  of  particular  modes  of  training  is  too  often 
determined  by  mere  fashionable  prejudice,  which  leads 
to  the  application  of  the  same  form  to  all  sorts  of  trees. 
Thus  the  French  are  apt  to  reduce  everything  to  the 
fan  system,  while  some  English  horticulturists  are  in- 
clined to  force  trees  of  the  most  rambling  growth  into 
the  pillory  of  a  horizontal  arrangement.     Such  a  uni- 


TRAINING.  57 

formit J  cannot  possibly  be  in  accordance  with  nature. 
The  enlightened  cultivator  will  employ. various  forms, 
and  will  determine  for  himself  which  is  the  most  appro- 
priate, not  only  for  every  species,  but  even  for  each  par- 
ticular variety  of  fruit-tree.  By  attentive  observation, 
and  rational  experiment,  more  knowledge  in  this  depart- 
-jment  may  be  attained  in  a  few  years  than  by  a  whole 
life  spent  in  routine  practice. 

As  supplementary  to  the  preceding  remarks  on  train- 
ing, some  of  the  expedients  for  inducing  a  state  of  fruit- 
fulness  in  trees  may  be  mentioned.  Of  these,  the  most 
common  is  root-pruning,  or  the  cutting  back  of  the  roots 
to  within  three  or  four  feet  of  the  stem ;  an  operation 
which  is  generally  found  efficacious  when  barrenness 
proceeds  from  over-luxuriance  and  too  copious  a  supply 
of  sap.  Another  is,  the  lifting  up  of  the  roots  care- 
fully, spreading  them  out  on  the  surface,  and  covering 
them,  with  a  layer  of  fresh  soil,  forming  a  slight  mound, 
at  the  same  time  all  naked  or  fibreless  roots  being  cut 
out.  To  attain  the  same  end,  recourse  is  sometimes  had 
to  ringing  the  branches  or  stem,  that  is,  removing  a 
narrow  portion  of  the  bark,  so  as  to  produce  the  appear- 
ance of  an  annular  incision.  The  trees,  it  is  said,  are 
thereby  not  only  rendered  productive,  but  the  quality  of 
the  fruit  is  at  the  same  time  apparently  improved.  The 
advantage  is  considered  as  depending  on  the  obstruction 
given  to  the  descent  of  the  sap,  and  it  being  thus  more 
copiously  afforded,  in  its  elaborated  state,  for  the  supply 
of  the  buds.  The  ring  should  therefore  be  made  in 
spring,  and  of  such  a  width  that  the  bark  may  remain 
separated  for  the  season.  It  ought  to  be  observed, 
however,  that  none  of  the  stoned  fruit-trees  are  bene- 
fited by  ringing.  Analogous  to  this  practice  is  decor- 
6 


58  FRUIT  GARDEN". 

tication,  or  the  removing  of  the  old  cracked  bark  from 
the  stems  of  apple  and  pear-trees,  a  practice  warmly 
recommended  by  the  late  Mr.  Lyon  of  Edinburgh,  and 
some  other  cultivators,  but  -which  has  never  been  exten- 
sively adopted.  Sometimes  barrenness  proceeds  from 
defect  of  climate  and  poverty  of  soil ;  in  which  case  a 
more  sheltered  situation  and  more  generous  treatment 
are  the  most  effectual  remedies.  Fruit-trees  should 
never,  if  possible,  be  allowed  to  become  stunted ;  for  in 
this  state  they  produce  only  worthless  fruit,  and  acquire 
a  habit  which  scarcely  admits  of  melioration. 

Protection  of  Blossom. — In  our  variable  climate,  and 
particularly  in  the  northern  and  eastern  parts  of  the 
country,  it  is  very  desirable  that  the  horticulturist  should 
be  provided  with  the  means  of  defending  the  blossom  of 
his  fruit-trees  from  the  Jate  frosts  in  spring.  For  this 
purpose  some  cultivators  partially  cover  their  walls 
with  branches  of  spruce-ffr  or  beech,  or  the  fronds  of  the 
common  hraken  fern  [Pteris  aquilina)^  fastened  firmly 
by  several  points  of  attachment,  to  prevent  rubbing. 
Others  recommend  frames  covered  with  bunting,  osna- 
burgh  or  similar  light  fabrics,  set  in  a  sloping  position 
in  front  of  the  trees.  Screens  formed  of  reeds  have 
been  used,  and  nettings  of  worsted-yarn  or  of  straw- 
ropes  have  been  employed  with  good  effect.  Whatever 
contrivance  serves  to  interrupt  radiation,  though  it  may 
not  keep  the  temperature  much  above  freezing,  will  be 
found  sufficient.  Standard  fruit-trees  must  be  left  to 
their  fate,  and,  indeed,  from  the  lateness  of  their  flower- 
ing, they  are  generally  more  injured  by  blight,  and  by 
drenching  rains,  which  wash  away  the  pollen  of  the 
flowers,  than  by  the  direct  effects  of  cold.  In  not  a 
few  cases  it  is  found  very  useful  to  promote  the  setting 


CULTURE  OF  HARDY  FRUITS.  59 

of  blossom,  by  directly  applying  it  to  pollen  from  flowers 
of  some  other  tree  of  the  same  species. 

Pi'otection  of  Fruit. — If -the  blossom  requires  to  be 
guarded,  equally  so  does  the  fruit,,  from  the  moment  it 
begins  to  color  till  it  be  plucked  for  the  table.  Wasps 
and  other  insect  enemies  are  often  ensnared  by  means  of 
phials  half  filled  with  watery  syrup,  and  hung  upon  the 
trees.  Coverings  of  netting  are  employed  to  protect 
against  the  ravages  of  small  birds:  and  this  is  preferable 
to  shooting  them ;  for  among  these  feathered  enemies 
it  must  be  confessed  with  r-egret  that  not  only  the  en- 
gaging Robin  Redbreast-  but  the  melodious  Blackbird 
fall  to  be  numbered. 


CULTURE  OF  HARDY  FRUITS. 

In  proceeding  to  treat  of  the  more  special  culture  of 
the  inmates  of  a  British  fruit  garden,  we  shall  begin 
with  the  more  tender ;  but  for  details  regarding  these, 
reference  may,  to  a  considerable  extent,  be  made  to  the 
Forcing  department,  in  which  alone  many  of  the  finer 
fruits  can  be  perfected.  The  nomenclature  of  the  numer 
rous  varieties  of  the  principal  fruits  is  still  in  an  unc^ir- 
tain  and  unsatisfactory  state.  Mr.  Thompson,  of  the 
Horticultural  Society's  Garden  at  Chiswick,  has,  how- 
ever, with  much  discrimination  and  judgment,  settled 
the  synonymes  of  many  of  those  chiefly  cultivated  in 
our  gardens  ;  and  we  shall,  therefore  (when  the  con- 
trary is  not  intimated),  adopt  the  names  employed  in 
the  London  Horticultural  Society's  Fruit  Catalogue. 

The  Grape  Vine  (  Vitis  'Cinifera)  can  scarcely  be  said 
to  be  a  hr^rdy  fruit  in  our  climate.    In  every  case  it  re- 


60  FRUIT  (Ur.DEN. 

quires  a  good  aspect;  and  north  of  York,  a  crop  of  des- 
sert ^vd^^Q^  cannot  be  expected  without  the  aid  of  a  hot 
wair.  In  the  extreme  south-west  districts  of  England, 
indeed,  grapes  fit  for  the  manufacture  of  wine,  perhaps 
equal  in  quality  to  those  in  the  north  of  France,  might 
be  produced  on  dwarf  standards;  and  there  is  abundant 
historical  evidence  that  productive  vineyards  once  ex- 
isted in  that  part  of  the  country. 

In  the  London  Horticultural  Society's  Catalogue, 
182  varieties  of  grapes  are  enumerated.  Some  of  those, 
however,  have  not  as  yet  been  well  ascertained ;  some 
are  pronounced  indifferent,  and  others  worthless.  We 
shall  name  only  a  few  of  those  most  deserving  the  at- 
tention of  the  cultivator. 

31illers  Burgundy. — This  sort  is  distinguished  by 
the  hoary  bubescence  of  its  leaves.  It  is  a  black  grape, 
with  short  compact  clusters,  small  round  berries,  and 
clear,  high-flavored  juice.  It  is  hardy,  ripening  com- 
pletely on  a  south  wall. 

Black  i>a???asc?^s.^Bunches  large,  with  round  berries 
and  exquisitely  sweet  juice.  This  desirable  late  variety 
does  not  set  well,  and  the  bunches  are  improved  by  the 
blossom  being  dusted  with  the  pollen  of  some  hardy 
kind. 

FranJcenthaL — A  valuable  grape,  nearly  allied  to  the 
Black  Hamburgh.  Bunches  moderate  in  size,  berries 
obovate,  flavor  excellent.  Although  this  is  the  kind 
which  is  commonly  trained  against  the  open  wall  in 
Holland,  it  seems  to  require  a  warm  vinery  in  Scotland. 

Frontignan  (or  Frontignac). — Several  varieties  under 
this  appellation,,  and  distinguished  by  the  names  of  black 
(or  purple 'Constantia),'^ri.22?y,  red,  and  \hQwJiite,  arc 
mentioned  by  horicultural  writers.    They  vary  in  color 


GRAPE-VINE.  61 

and. form  of  the  cluster.  The  berties  are  round,  the 
skin  thick,  and  the  juice  of  a  rich  muscat  flavor.  They 
are  all  of  high  excellence.  The  white  (often  called  white 
Constantia)  is  the  most  early. 

Black  G-ihraltar^  or  Red  Hamhurgh  of  Lindley. — 
This  is  an  excellent  grape,  with  large  clusters  and  large 
dark  red  berries,  full  of  a  sweet  juice. 

Black  Hamhurgh, — This  is  a  well-known  grape,  of 
great  value,  and  perhaps  more  generally  cultivated  for 
the  dessert  in  this  country  than  any  other  sort.  It 
ought  to  be  in  every  collection. 

Wilmofs  JVew  Hamburgh,  with  remarkably  large 
berries,  very  firm  in  flesh ;  but  the  bunches  small  and 
loose,  and  not  shouldered. 

Black  Lomhardy,  or  West's  St.  Peter  s. — Bunches 
large,  berries  round,  skin  thin,  with  a  sweet  flavor; 
an  excellent  late  sort.  The  fruit  will  hang  on  the  vines 
till  March. 

Royal  Ifuscadine,  of  the  L.  Hort.  Cat.  or  White 
Muscadine  of  Lindley.  The  Chasselas  of  Paris.  This, 
though  not  a  first-rate  grape,  comes  early,  and  is  a  fa- 
vorite with  many.  Bunches  large,  berries  white,  round, 
with  rich  and  sweet  juice. 

3Iuscat  of  Alexandria. — Bunches  long,  and  also 
broad-shouldered,  berries  white  and  oval,  with  a  deli- 
cious, very  rich,  muscat  flavor ;  wood  reddish-brown ; 
leaf  large  and  pendulous.  This  most  admirable  variety 
requires  a  high  temperature,  and  should  properly  have 
a  small  vinery  for  itself. 

The  Canon  Hall  Muscat  is  a  variety  of  the  former ; 
similar  in  general  appearance,  but  with  larger  leaves ; 
cluster   setting   thinner  and    more    regularly,  berries 

6* 


62  FRUiT  GARDEN. 

rather  longer  and  larger,  flesh  less  firm,  but  rich  fla- 
vored, and  ripening  fully  a  fortnight  earlier. 
;  Pitmaston  White  Cluster. — This  excellent  variety 
sprang  from  a  seed  of  the  small  black  cluster  grape. 
The  bunch  is  compact ;  the  berry  is  round,  when  ripe 
of  an  amber  color,  bronzed  with  russet  on  one  side. 
It  comes  to  perfection  on  the  open  wall  in  England, 
and  is  also  well  suited  for  forcing. 

White  Tohay. — ^The  bunch  is  small,  and  not  shoul- 
dered ;  the  berries  of  a  rich  vinous  flavor ;  wood  white  ; 
leaf  stiff  and  downy. 

Large  White  Siveetivater.  —  Bunch  loose,  berries 
round,  flavor  sweet.  It  ripens  early,  generally  from 
the  middle  to  the  end  of  September;  and  in  the  south 
of  England  it  succeeds  against  the  open  wall.  The 
bunches  should  be  allowed  to  hang  until  they  be  per- 
fectly ripe,  when  the  berries  acquire  a  slight  russet 
color.     It  has  long  been  a  favorite  grape. 

Tlte  Grove-End  Sweetvmter  is  early,  and  of  good 
quality ;  the  berries  having  a  rich  vinous  flavor.  It 
is  the  better  for  artificial  impregnation. 

Stilhvard's  Siveetwater  or  Chasselas  precoce  is  a  re- 
cent variety  of  considerable  merit.  It  is  desirable  for 
earlinesg,  and  the  bunches  possess  the  property  of 
keeping  good  on  the  plant  for  two  or  three  months 
after  the  berries  are  ripe. 

Black  Morillon  or  Burgundy  Grape,  or  Small  Black 
Cluster,  ripens  in  England  against  a  south  wall. 

The  Black  Prince  is  of  easy  cultivation,  and  the 
berries  are  of  a  pleasant  flavor. 

The  Zante,  or  Corinth  Grape,  is  often  called  Zante 
Currant.  In  general  it  is  a  shy  bearer,  and  the  berries 
are  small ;  but  Mr.  Gow,  gardener  at  Tulliallan,  hav- 


GRAPE-VINE.  63 

ing  fertilized  some  bunches  with  the  pollen  of  the  Black 
Haml^urgh,  found  that  they  set  more, freely,  and  that 
the  berries  were  larger  and  better  flavored;  a  hint 
worth  attending  to  in  other  cases. 

The  Verdelho  has  loose  bunches,  berries  of  a  green- 
ish-yellow color,  small,  oval,  numerous;  when  fully 
ripe,  of  a  rich  saccharine  flavor.  It  is  the  principal 
grape  cultivated  in  Maderia  for  making  the  celebrated 
wine  of  that  island.  The  plant  grows  vigorously  ;  and 
Mr.  Knight  has  observed  of  it  that  the  same  degree 
of  shade  which  would  render  the  greater  number  of 
sorts  wholly  unproductive,  .scarcely  affects  the  fertility 
of  this ;  -a  convenient  property,  which  adapts  it  for 
the  back  wall  of  a  glazed-house.  The  same  horti- 
culturist mentions  another  economical  property  of  the 
verdelho :  it  bears  plentifully  when  planted  m  very 
small  pots ;  a  few  pots  of  it  may  therefore  be  intro- 
duced amang  green-house  plants  in  early  spring ;  the 
almost  leafless -stems  do  no  injury  till  the  end  of  May, 
when  some  of  the  more  hardy  ornamental  plants  can 
be  set  abroad ;  and  during  the  warm  months  which 
follow,  when  the  green-house  is  otherwise  empty,  abun- 
'dant  crops  of  these  small  grapes  may  be  procured. 

The  -Usperlone,  or  Turner''s  Early  Black,  has  the 
bunches  large  and  .shouldered,  not  unlike  those  of  the 
Black  Hamburgh.  The  berries  are  of  a  fine  dark  color, 
with  a  bluish  farina  or  bloom ;  the  pulp  adheres  to  the 
skin-;  and  though  neither  highly  flavored  nor  melting, 
it  is  very  pleasant.  This  grape  ripens  on  the  open  wall 
near  London. 

The  Syrian  Grrape  is  remarkable  for  the  extraordi- 
nary size  and  beauty  of  its  bunches  ;  it  is  a  late  variety, 
and  the  berries  are  sweet  and  not  without  flavor  when 


64:  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

properly  ripened.  This  is  generally  regarded  as  the 
kind  produced  in  the  valley  of  Eshcol,  a  cluster  of 
which  was  brought  to  the  camp  of  Israel,  swung  on 
a  staff  between  two  of  the  spies ;  not  probably  on  ac- 
count of  its  weight,  but  (as  Dr.  Clark  observes)  to  pre- 
vent the  berries  from  being  bruised. '^~ 

In  addition  to  the  above,  the  editor  of  the  Lond. 
Hort.  Cat.  mentions  the  following  as  excellent -grapes  : 
Ciotat,  or  Parsley-leaved ;  Genuine  Tokay,  or  White 
Morillon  ; '  Chasselas  musque,  an  early  sort  with  a  rich 
musky  flavor  ;  Elford  ;  Lunel ;  Mignonne  White  Clus- 
ter ;  Black  Morocco,  requiring  a  strong'  heat  to  cause 
it  to  set;  Black  Muscadine;  Petersburgh ;  Raisin  des 
Carmes  ;  and  Black  Tripoli. 

For  an  ordinary  vinery,  the  following  may  be  recom- 
mended :  Black  Hamburgh,  Red  Hamburgh,  Black 
Prontignan,  Frankenthal,  St.  Jeter's,  White  Prontig- 
nan.  White  Hamburgh,  and  White  Tokay.  For  a  stove 
or  warm  vinery  maybe  particularized  the  Black  Damas- 
cus, which  sets  shyly  unless  aided.  Black  Raisin,  Grizzly 
Frontignan,  Black  Tripoli,  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Ca- 
nonhall  Muscat,  and  Syrian.  For  training  against  the 
rafters  of  a  green-house,  the  Black  Prince,  Verdelho, 
Esperione,  and  Black  Cluster,  are  perhaps  among  the 
best. 

The  kinds  commonly  grown  agains.t  the  open  wall 
in  England  are  the  Miller  Burgundy,  Esperione,  White 
Muscadine,  White  Sweetwater,  Early  Black,  Grove  End, 
and  Pitmaston  White  Cluster.     In  the  north  of  Eng- 

^  Bunches  of  the  Syrian  Grape  have  been  raised  in  Syria 
weighing  401bs. ;  but  in  tbfe  grape-houses  of  Europe  and  Ame- 
rica they  have  seldom  been  brought  to  weigh  over  lOlbs.  to 
IGlbs. 


r,RAPE-VINE.  65 

laii-d,  and  in  the  south  of  Scotland,  vines  always  re- 
quire hot  walls.  Against  a  hot  wall,  at  Erskine  House, 
on  the  Clyde,  Black  Hamburgh  grapes  are  -every  year 
proddced  equal  in  size  and  flavor  to  those  of  the  viiiery 
or  hot-house.  In  some  gardens,  an  entire  wall  is  dedi- 
cated to  vines,  but,  in  general,  they  occupy  only  the 
interstices  between  other  trees.  Mr.  Williams,  of  Pit- 
maston,  trained  a  vine  under  the  coping  of  a  wall  to  the 
extent  of  fifty  feet,  and  bent  down  the  shoots  at  inter- 
vals to  fill  up  the  spaces  between  the  fruit-trees,  and 
he  found  that  the  grapes  were  better  the  farther,  they 
were  distant  from  the  main  stem  and  root.  The  cul- 
ture of  grapes  on  a  wall  does  not  differ  materially 
from  that  practiced  in'  a  moderately  worked  vinery  ; 
we  shall  therefore  defer  any  farther  observations  till 
we  resume  the  subject  in  treating  of  the  forcing  depart- 
ment. 

Mr.  Mearns  has,  of  late,  recommended  the  culture  of 
grape-vines  in  flower-pots,  by  coiling  the  lower  part  of 
the  stems  in  the  pots.  When  the  plants  can  be  sub- 
jected to  a  pretty  high  temperature,  with  bottom-heat, 
some  fine  bunches  may  thus  be  procured  from  a  very 
small  stove,  without  materially  interfering  with  orna- 
mental exotics  kept  in  the  same  place. 

These  are  the  varieties  of  grapes  which  are  consider- 
ed most  deserving  of  attention  in  England,  where  the 
culture  of  the  vine  is  limited  to  the  sheltered  garden,- 
and  generally  to  the  Grape-House  or  Vinery.  Such, 
however,  is  the  success  with  which  skill  can  obviate  the 
defects" of  natural  climate,  that  fruit  of  larger  size  and 
better  flavor  is  produced  in  English  graperies  than  can 
•  be  found  in  even  the  most  highly  favored  climates 
where  the  fruit  ripens  in  the  open  air.     By  the  skillful 


66  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

application  of  artificial  heat,  ripe  grapes  in  great  per- 
fection are  produced  in  .many,  vineries  -during  every 
mantli  in  the  year,  in  endless  succession. 

The  productiveness  of  the  grape-vine  may  be  increas- 
ed to  an  almost  unlimited  extent,  an  example  of  which 
is  furnished  in  the  much  celebrated  Black  Hamburg  vine 
in  the  grapery  attached  to  the  royal  gardens  at  Hamp- 
ton Court,  which,  in  a  single  season,  has  produced  2200 
bunches  averaging  a  pound  each,  making  in  all  nearly 
a  ton.*  Another  vine  in  England,  at  Valentine  in 
Essex,  has  produced  2000  bunches  of  nearly  the  same 
average  weight.  It  occupies  above  147  square  yards, 
W'hilst  that  at  Hampton  Court  is  spread  over  160  square 
yards,  one  of  its  branches  measuring  114  feet  in  length. 
Where  the  climate  and  other  circumstances  are  favor- 
able, the  age  attained  by  grape-vines  is  almost  unlimit- 
ed. Pliny  mentions  one  600  years  old  and  still  bearing 
in  his  time. 

Most  of  those  who  have  attempted  the  cultivation  in 
the  United  States  of  foreign  grapes-  i?i  the  open  air 
have  met  with  discouraging  results.  The  White  Sweet- 
water and  Black  Hamburg  are  almost  the  only  varie- 
ties which  will  give  crops  in  the  open  air  in  the  Southern 
States,  or  in  sheltered  situations  and  gardens  in  the 
city  of  Philadelphia. 

Dr.  B.  T.  Underbill,  of  New  York,  states  that  after 
having  sunk  thousands  of  dollars  in  attempts  to  raise 
the  best  foreign  varieties  of  grapes  in  the  open  air,  he 
has  abandoned  the  project  as  visionary,  and  entirely 

*  This  vine  is  sometimes  called  even  in  books  sl  Bed  Hamburg. 
But  there  is,  in  fact,  no  such  particular  variety  of  grape  as  the 
lied  Hamburg,  that  so  called  being  strictly  the  Black  Hamburg 
imperfectly  ripened. 


GRAPE-VINE.  -  67 

devoted  his  attention  to  the  native  kinds.  An  inte- 
resting communication  from  him  on  this  subject  may 
be  found  in  the  Albany  Ciiltivator  for  January,  18435 
in  which  he  says  that  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York, 
south  of  the  highlands  of  the  Hudson,  he  finds  that 
the  Isabella  grape  ripens  quite  as  w«ll  when  planted  in 
a  level  field,  protected  from  the  north  and  west  winds 
by  woods  or  hedges,  as  on  declivities.  "Several  of 
my  vineyards,"  he  observes,  "are  thus  located,  and,  as 
far  as  I  can  perceive,  the  fruit  ripens  at  about  the 
same  time,  and  is  of  the  same  quality  as  those  planted 
on  steep  side-hills.  I  think,  however,  that  north  of 
the  highlands,  side-hills  would  be  preferable.", 

A  plan  adopted  by  Mr.  William  Wilson,  of  Cler- 
mont, near  Philadelphia,  to  secure  his  foreign  grape- 
vines, grown  in  the  open  air,  against  the  severe  frosts 
of  American  winters,  is  well  deserving  of  attention. 
The  vines  are  left  their  whole  length  after  they  get 
their  fall  trimming  in  October,  and  in  November. are 
let  down  from  their  supports,  laid  on  the  ground  at  full 
length,  fastened  down  Avith  pins,  and  covered  lightly 
with  earth.  In  this  state  they  are  left  all  winter.  In 
April,  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit,  they  are 
uncovered,  and  left  lying  on  the  ground  ten  or  twelve 
days.  About  th^  first  of  May, 'they  are  trained'  to 
their  stakes  or  poles,  of  the  length  of  ten  feet  and 
upwards.  By  the  middle  of  June  the  stakes  are  en- 
tirely covered  by  new  shoots  of  the  vine,  and  with 
plenty  of  fruit,  which  ripens  in  September.  Before 
adopting  this  plan,  Mr.  AVilson  says  his  fruit  was  fre- 
quently-blasted and  mildewed,  but  by  its  aid  he  has 
since  succeeded  in  training  vines  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
long,  some  of  which  ran  up  fruit-trees  adjacent,  whilst 


68  •  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

others,  after  attaining  eight  or  ten  feet  in  height,,  were 
stretched  horizontally.  He  seldom  gathered  fruit 
within  three  or  four  feet  of  the  ground,  which  was  kept 
cultivated  by  frequent  hoeing,  and  during  ten  years 
never  applied  manure. 

The  main  source  of  destruction  to  foreign  grape-vines 
in  the  American  climate  appears  to  be  not  so  much  in 
the  severity  of  the  winter  frosts  as  in  the  sudden  return 
of  cold  spells.  Foreign  vines  seem  to  commence  the 
free  circulation  of  their  sap  earlier  than  the  native 
kinds,  and  thus  are  exposed  to  having  their  circulating 
juices  frozen,  to  the  certain  destruction  of  the  vines. 

In  England  the  Vine-culture  is  limited  to  the  pro- 
duction of  a  costly  luxury  for  the  tables  of  the  wealthy. 
But  in  the  United  States  the  raising  of  the  grape  has 
for  its  object  not  only  a  supply  of  wholesome  and  deli- 
cious fruit  for  eating,  but  for  the  production  of  wine.  It 
is,  however,  only  within  the  last  year  or  two  that  the  ef- 
forts of  those  who  have  devoted  attention  to  wine-making 
have  met  with  decided  and  even  brilliant  success,  and 
that  the  Cincinnati  wine-makers  have  demonstrated  the 
practicability  of  producing  an  American  wine  that  will 
bear  competition  with  some  of  the  best  of  Europe. 

Among  native  American  grapes  yet  brought  into  suc- 
cessful cultivation,  the  Isabella,  as  has  been  already 
stated,  is  the  most  hardy,  and  may  be  raised  in  the  open 
air  as  far  north  as  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  bears  long,  ta- 
pering bunches,  with  few  shoulders,  the  berries  being 
oval,  jet-black,  and  covered  with  a  fine  bloom  or  white 
flour.  The  skin  is  thick,  the  flesh  very  sweet,  though  a 
little  pulpy,  with  a  slight  musky  flavor.  The  vine  is  of 
a  brownish-red  color,  and  very  strong,  the  leaves  being 
large   and  three-lobed,  coated  underneath  with  white 


GRAPE-VINE.  69 

down.  The  wine  made  from  it  is  sometimes  good,  re- 
sembling light  Madeira. 

The  Qataivha  bears  bunches  rather  regularly  formed, 
with  a  few  shoulders.  The  berries  are  round  and  of  a 
coppery-red  color  when  ripe.  The  flesh  is  pulpy,  though 
rather  juicy,  and  the  taste  sweet,  with  a  slight  musky 
flavor.  The  leaves  much  resemble  those  of  the  Isabella, 
having  a  white  down  beneath,  but  being  of  a  paler 
green  and  more  reflexed.  Whilst  it  is  perhaps  the  best 
native  table-grape,  it  stands  at  present  as  the  unrivaled 
wine-grape  of  the  United  States.  Mr.  Longworth,  of 
Cincinnati,  has  offered  $500  reward  to  any  one  who 
will  produce  a  better  native  variety.  Several  new 
seedlings  of  merit  have  been  brought  forward,  none  of 
which,  however,  have  proved  equal  to  the  original 
Catawba.  Mr.  L.  thinks  the  commefh  Fox  grape  the 
parent  of  the  Catawba.  The  wine  produced  from  this 
grape  is  described  as  varying  from  a  clear  water-color 
to  straw-color  and  pink,  with  a  fine  fruity  flavor,  and 
slightly  musky  rich  aroma.  By  mixing  the  produce  of 
the  new  vintage  with  that  of  an  old,  half  and  half,  a  supe- 
rior sparkling  wine  is  made,  much  resembling  sparkling 
Moselle.  It  also  makes  a  still  wine  resembling  a  dry 
hock.  If  Catawba  grapes  be  thoroughly  ripened,  no 
sugar  will,  be  required  in  making  the  wine,  whilst  wine 
rbade  from  the  Isabella,  resembling  a  light  Madeira, 
requires  for  the  proper  promotion  of  its  fermentation 
the  addition  of  from  eighteen  to  twenty -four  ounces  of 
sugar  to  each  gallon  of  juice,  or  "must." 

The  Powell  Grape,  called  also   the  Alexandria,  and 

Bland — in  compliment    to  Mr.   Bland   of  Alexandria, 

Ya.,  who  first  introduced  it — is  considered  a  hybrid,  or 

cross  between  the  Isabella  and  B.  Hambura'.     It  bears 

7 


70  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

short  bunches,  having,  when  of  good  size,  two  or  three 
shoulders.  The  berries  are  round  and  of  a  pale  red 
color,,  with  pulpy  flesh  of  a  sweetish,  sub-acid  taste, 
and  a  little  of  the  musky  or  fox-grape  flavor  and  xjha- 
racter.  The  leaves  are  a  pale-green  underneath,  and 
rounder  than  those  of  the  Isabella  or  Catawba. 

The  Scuppernong  of  the  Southern  States  enjoys  great 
celebrity,  both  for  its  fruit  and  wine-making  qualities. 
In  North  Carolina  it  thrives  well,  and  bears  most  luxu- 
riantly. Its  origin  is  doubtful.  The  berries  are  very 
large  and  roundish,  and  grow  on  separate  stems,  like 
cherries.  There  are  two  kinds,  called  the  white  and 
black,  from  the  color  of  the  fruit.  The  light-colored 
are  generally  preferred. 

The  Elsenhurg  is  a  native  of  New  Jersey,  having 
small  bunches,  compact  and  shouldered.  The  berries 
are  small,  round,  jet  black,  with  a  thin  skin,  no  pulp, 
sweet,  and  well-flavored.  The  wood  is  slender  and 
very  hardy,  the  leaves  five-lobed-  and  thick. 

The  Missouri  is  a  native  variety  described  by  Mr. 
Buchanan,  of  Cincinnati,  as  bearing  bunches .  loose 
and  of  medium  size,  with  berries  black,  without  pulp, 
having  a  sweet  and  agreeable  flavor.  He  represents  it 
as  making  an  excellent  wine,  somewhat  resembling 
Madeira. 

Minor  8  Seedling  is  a  new  grape  of  the  Fox  family. 
The  bunches  are  of  moderate  size,  berries  large,  pulpy, 
musky,  and  rich  flavored,  and  the  fruit  not  subject  to 
rot.  The  wine  is  said  to  be  too  musky  and  high 
flavored  to  be  pleasant,,  but  may  do  to  mingle  with 
other  kinds,  and  thus  the  grape  may  be  found  valuable 
for  cultivation. 

The  White  Cataivla^  a  seedling  from  the  Catawba,  has 


GRAPE-VINE.  71 

been  raised,  but  it  proves  lir  inferior  to  the  parent. 
It  has  bunches  of  medium  size,  and  shouldered,  ber- 
ries white,  large;  round  and  pulpy,  tasting  much  like 
the  fox  grape. 

The  Mammoth  Catawba  is  another  new  seedling,  re- 
sembling tbe  Catawba  in  color,  but  not  so  well  flavored. 
Th^  bunches  are  large,  shouldered,  the  berries  very 
large,  round,  pulpy,  and  in  some  seasons  subject  to  fall 
off  before  ripening. 

The  Oliio,  or  Cigar-hox  Grape,  has  been  brought  into 
notice  by  Mr.  Long  worth,  of  Cincinnati,  as  a  fine  table 
grape.  Its  bunches  are  long,  compact,  tapering,  and 
ahouldered,  the  berries  being  ^mall,  black,  thin- skinned, 
sweet,  and  without  pulp.  Seeds  large.'  The  wood  is 
strong,  but  shorter  jointed  than  that  of  either  the  Ca- 
tawba or  Isabella.  This  is  considered  a  native  Ame- 
rican grape,  and  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the 
Elsenberg,  but  is  by  no  means  so  hardy.  It  makes  a 
dark-red  wine  of  inferior  flavor  when  new,  but  improv- 
ing by  age. 

Pond's  Seedling  is  a  large,  round  purple  grape,  with 
a  thin  skin  and  rich  pungent  flavor,  well  adapted  to  the 
table,  and  promising  to  make  good  wine. 

The  Luf  borough  is  a  large,  round  dark  purple  grape 
of  the  Fox  family.  Its  taste  is  sweet,  and  when  ripe 
its  pulp  dissolves  into  a  saccharine  juice,  having  a  musky 
flavor.     It  is  reckoned  a  good  wine  grape. 

The  Bladdox  is,  of  medium  size,  roundish,  brownish- 
red  in  color,  and  brisk  and  vinous  flavor.  It  is  not  sub- 
ject to  rot,  and  reckoned  a  good  wine  grape. 

Norton^ s  Virginia  Seedling hesiYS  bunches  of  medium 
size,  compact  and  shouldered,  with  berries  small,  purple, 
sweet,  but  with  pulp.     It  makes  an  inferior  wine. 


7-2  FRUIT  iMRDEN. 

The  Qunningham  Grajoe  is  a  native  of  Prince  Ed- 
ward's County,  Virginia.  The.  berries  are  of  medium 
size,  round,  black,  and  not  subject  to  rot.  Their  taste 
is  said  to  resemble  that  of  the  Nigrillo  of  Madeira. 
It  is  a  good  table  and  promising  wine  grape. 

The  Woodson  is  another  Virginia  variety,  from 
Prince  Edward's  County,  and  is  recommended  as  a 
very  proper  fruit  for  the  production  of  a  sparkling 
wine.     It  yields  abundantly,  but  ripens  late. 

There  are  still  other  varieties  ^of  native  American 
grapes,  enjoying  more  or  less  local  or  general  celebrity. 
Amon^  these  are  the  Tasker,  and  the  Schuylkill,  which 
diflfer  but  little  from  each  other. 

At  the  meeting  of  the  National  Congress  of  Fruit- 
growers, held  in  New  York,  in  1849,  the  grapes  re- 
commended as  of  the  first  quality  and  best  adapted  to 
culture  in  the  United  States,  were  {under  glass)  Black 
Hamburg,  Black  Prince,  Black  Frontignac,  Grizly 
Frontignan,  White  Frontignan,  White  Muscat  of  Alex- 
andria, and  Chasselas  de  Fontainebleau ;  and'  of  native 
Grapes  adapted  to  the  open  air,  the  Isabella  and  the 
Catawba. 

The  Diana,  a  seedling  from  the  Catawba,  has  been 
brought  forward  lately  as  a  native  American  grape  of 
the  first  class. 

The  cbief  aim  of  those  who  seek  grapes  adapted  to 
wine-making  is  to  obtain  such  as  at  maturity  possess 
sufficient  sugar  in  their  juice  to  render  the  addition  of 
either  sugar  or  alcohol  unnecessary  for  the  future 
stages  of  the  wine. 

The  Catawba  is,  according  the  Cincinnati  authorities, 
the  only  grape  yet  found  in  the  U.  S.  which  fulfils  this 
great  desideratum.     Good  wine  is  often  made  from  other 


GRAPE-VINE.  73 

grapes — such  for  example  as  the  Isabella  and  Scupper- 
nong — but  both  these  require  the  addition  of  consider- 
able sugar  to  produce  the  requisite  degree  of  fermen- 
tation. 

The  following  communication,  made  by  Mr.  Long- 
worth  to  the  Cincinnati  Horticraltural  -Society,  contains 
much  highly  valuable  information  relative,  to  the  vine 
culture  in  the  United  States  : — 

"I  have  for  thirty  years  experimented  on  the  foreign 
grape,  both  for  the  table  and  for  wine.  In  the  accli- 
mation of  plants  I  do  not  believe,  for  the  White  Sweet 
Water  does  not  succeed. fis  well  with  ma  as  it  did  thirty 
years  since.  I  obtained  a  large  variety  of  French 
grapes. from  Mr.  Loubat  many  years  since.  They  were 
from  the  vicinity  of  Paris  and  Bourdeaux.  From  Ma- 
deira I  obtained  six  thousand  ^dnes  of  their  best  wine 
grapes.  Not  one  was  found  worthy  of  cultivation  in 
this  latitude,  and  were  rooted  from  the  vineyards.  As 
a  last  experiment,  I  imported  seven  thousand  vines 
from  the  mountains  of  Jura,  in  the  vicinity  of  Salins, 
in  France.  At  that  point  the  vine  region  suddenly 
ends,  and  many  vines  are  there  cultivated  on  the  north 
side  of  the  mountain,  where  the  ground  is  covered  with 
snow  the  whole  winter  from  three  to_  four  feet  deep. 
Nearly  all  lived,  and  embraced,'  about  twenty  varieties 
of  the  most  celebrated  wine  grapes  of  France.  But 
after  a  trial  of  five  years,  all  have  been  thrown  away. 
I  also  imported  samples  of  wine  made  from  all  the 
grapes.  One  variety  alone,  the  celebrated  Arbois 
wine,  which  partakes  slightly  of  the  Champagne  cha- 
racter, would  compete  with  our  Catawba. 

^'  If  we  intend  cultivating  the  grape  for  wine,  we 
must  rely  on  our  native  grapes,  and  new  varieties  raised 


74  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

from  their  seed.  If  I  could  get  my  lease  of  life  renewed 
for  twenty  or  thirty  years,  I  would  devote  my  atten- 
tion to  the  subject,  and  I  would  cross  our  best  native 
varieties  with  the  best  table  and  wine  grapes  of  Europe. 
We  live  in  a  great  age.  Di-sooveries  are  daily  made 
that  confound  us,  and  we  know  not  -where  we  shall 
stop.  We  are  told  of  experiments  in  mesmerism,  as 
wonderful  as  the  grinding-over  system  would  be  ;  but  I 
fear  the  discovery  will  not  be  brought,  to  perfection  in 
time  to  answer  my  purpose,  and  I  must  leave  the  sub- 
ject with  the  young  generation. 

"I  have  heretofore  wanted  faith  in  the  doctrine  of 
French  horticulturists,  that  to  improve  your  stock  of 
pears  you  must  not  select  the  seed  of  the  finest  fruit, 
but  of  the  natural  choke  pear.  I  am  half  converted  to 
their  views.  The  Catawba  is  clearly  derived  from  the 
common  Fox  grape.  In  raising  from  its  seed,  even 
white  ones  are  produced,  but  I  have  not  seen  one  equal 
to  the  parent  plant,  and  in  all  the  white  down  on'  the 
under,  side  of  the  leaf,  and  the  hairs  on  the  stalk,  com- 
mon to  the -wild  Fox  grape,  ai?e  abundant." 

The  same  g-entleman,  in  pointing  out  the  evils  of 
following  practices  in  the  United  States  which  are 
highly  advantageous  in  other  countries,  observes  : — 

"  In  som.e  parts  of  Europe,  where  their  summers  are 
cool,  they  find  it  necessary  to  shorten  the  ^leading 
branches  intended  to  produce  the  next  year's  crop,  and 
thin  out  the  leaves,  and  head  in  the  short  branches,  and 
fully  expose  the  fruit  to  the  sun  and  air  to  insure  its 
ripening.  This  method  in  our  hot  climate  is  often 
-highly  injurious  to  the  plant  and  destructive  to  the 
fruit.  If  the  heading-in  of  the  leading  shoots  be  done 
early  in  the  season,  the  fruit  buds  of  the  fallowing  year 


GRAPE-VINE.  75  . 

are  thrown  out.  As  an  experiment,  I  one-  year,  by 
successive  heading,  had  the  fruit  of  four  successive  years 
on  the  plant  at  the  same  time,  and  the  fall  being  favor- 
able, the  second  crop  ripened  its  fruit.  Where  the 
fruit  branches  are  frequently  topped,  and  the  wood  be- 
comes ripe,  the  sap  ceases  to  flow  and  the  fruit  cannot 
ripen.  This  is  the  case  at  the  vineyard  of  Mr.  Duhme. 
In  our  hot  climate  no  more  lateral  branches  should  b^ 
taken  from  the  main  shoots  intended  for  next  year's 
fruit  than  to  give  them  the  necessary  length.  The 
fruit  branches  should  be  topped  when  in  blossom  be- 
yond the  second  eye  from  the  last  blossom,-  and  after 
that  allowed  to  grow  without  topping.  In  our  climate, 
to  ripen  the  fruit  a  portion  of  shade  is  necessary,  for 
where  there  is  growing  young  wood,  there  is  of  course  a 
full  flow  of  sap  to  the  fruit,  without  which  it  shrivels 
and  drops  off. 

"  This  day  I  visited  a  German  settlement  on  the 
Ohio,  commencing  about  twelve  miles  above  the  city  and 
extending  about  four  miles.  The  hill  commences  close  to 
the  river  and  rises  gradually ;  the  usual  bottom  land 
being  an  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Tlie  soil  is 
porous,  and  well  calculated,  in  my-opinion^  for  the  culti- 
vation of  the  grape,  and  nearly  the  whole  of  the  four  miles 
is  occupied  by  vineyards,  and  there  are  also  some  on  the 
top  of  the  hill.  Two  of  the  vineyards  belong  to  English- 
men ;•  the-owners  of  all  the  others  are  Germans. 

"  Most  of  tlie  vineytirds  in  this  vicinity  (Cincinnati) 
have  suffered  ■  severely  from  the  rot,  and  some  vine- 
dressers, expecting  in  the  early  part  of  the  season  to 
make  from  2000  to  4000  gallons  of  wnne,  will  not  make 
100.  Yet  their  vineyards  are  on  the  sides  and  tops  of 
the  hills,  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air.     But  the 


76  FRUIT  G/UIDEN. 

-  sub-soil  is  a  stiff  clay,  retentive  of  moisture.  These 
localities  will,  I  fear,  be  always  subject  to  rot,  and  yet 
the  vineyards  will  be  found  more  profitable  than  any 
other  crop.  To  persons  having  a  porous  soil,  I  would 
recommend  the  cultivation  of  the  Ilerbemont  grape.  It 
is  a  fine  grape  both  for  the  table  and  for  wine,  and  per- 
fectly hardy.  It  makes  wine  of  superior  quality,  simi- 
lar to  the  Spanish  Manzanilla,  or  Mansinsella,  as  it  is 
generally  pronounced.  This  grape  has  a  soft  pulp,  and 
resembles  the  best  foreign  table  grapes.  Lick  Run,  in 
our  immediate  vicinity,  will  make  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful rural  spots  in  the  world.  -  It  will  soon  be  a  con- 
tinuous line  of  vineyards.  I  wish  some  of  our  poets 
would  visit  it  in  May  or  June,  and  give  it  a  more  beau- 
tiful and  appropriate  name.  They  may  rack  their 
brains  for  months,  and  not  find  one  worthy  of  the  scene. 
It  is  different  on  Mount  Adams,  which  is  in  a  double 
sense  in  connection  with  the  heavens — its  height  and 
proximity  to  the  great  Telescope  of  Professor  Mitchel. 
The  highest  street  is  called  Celestial  Street.  Command- 
ing as  the  view  is,  the  name  surely  equals  it. 

"I  have  just  returned,  from  a  visit  to  the  vineyard  of 
Mr.  Langdon,  on  the  bottom  of  the  Little  Miami,  eight 
miles  above  the  city,  in  a  sandy  soil.  That  porous,  soil 
is  not  subject  to  the  rot  in  grapes  is  exemplified  here. 
His  misfortune  is,  in  faet,  too  large  a  crop  of  fruity  an 
unusual  complaint  this  season.  Yet  he  will  have  a  poor 
vintage,  arising  from  two  causes,  which  prevent  the  fruit 
from  ripening.  The  first  and  least  cause  is  too  much 
fruit,  from  leaving  too  much  bearing  wood.  There  was 
more  than  the  vine  could  give  a  supply  of  sap  for,  in  a 
favorable  season.  The  second  and  great  cause  is  the 
same  as  at  the  vineyard  of  Mr.  Duhme.   The  fruit  has  no 


GRAPE-VINE.  77 

shade,  few  leaves,  and  but  little  young  wood  on  the  fruit 
branches  to  carry  sap  to  the  grapes  to  ripen  them.  The 
wood  is  life-;  and  the  circulation  of  the  sap  stopped.  Not 
one-fourth  of  the  grapes  will  ripen  perfect,  many  of 
them  shrivel-  and  drop,  and  many  of  them  scarcely 
change  color.     A  favorable  fall  will  aid  them. 

''J  observed  in  the  vineyard  of  Mr.  Langdon,  that  the 
Catawba  vine  is  much  closer  jointed  than  in  our  richer 
land,  where  there  is  a  sub-soil  of  clay ;  and  one  of  my 
German  vine-dressers  assured  me  this  is  always  the 
case.  This  would  indicate  an  increased  crop,  and  the 
change  probably  depends  on  the  richness  of  the  soil. 
An  important  inquiry  is.  Will  the  grape  in  a  sandy  soil 
yield  an  equal  amount  of  sugar  ?  I  wish  our  vine- 
dressers to  direct  their  attention  to  this  subject.  In 
some  of  our  vineyards,  they  have  both  soils,  and  the 
question  will  be.  easily  decided.  The  color  of  the 
Catawba  grape  is  no  certain  evidence  of  its  ripeness 
and  richness.  They  are  often  of  unusual  dark  color 
this  season,  yet  the  juice  has  one-eighth  less  sugar." 

Eobert  Buchanan,  Esq.,  a  highly  intelligent  and 
successful  vine-culturist  and  wine-maker,  of  Cincinnati, 
has  lately  favored  the  public  ivith  a  short  but  very 
comprehensive  ''  Treatise  on  tlie  Cultivation  of  the 
Grape  in  Vineyards,'"  in  which  he  mentions  the  varie- 
ties of  grapes  chiefly  raised  near  Cincinnati,  the  cha- 
racteristics of  the  wine  made  from  them,  and  modes 
of  culture  pursued.  This  publication,  coming  from  one 
so  intelligent  and  well  qualified  by  experience  in  the 
vine  culture  and  wine  making,  will  be  found  to  convey 
thd  most  opportune  and  valuable  instruction  to  all 
interested  in  the  subject. 

Propagating  the    Vine  hy  Cuttings  and  Layers. — 


78  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Mr.  Buchanan  says,  that  in  the  vicinit}^  of  Cincinnati 
the  most  common  way  of  propagating  the  vine  is  by 
means  of  cuttings,  which  may  be  made  a  foot  or  more 
long,  with  a  portion  of  two  year  old  w^ood  attached. 
Or  they  may  be  shortened  to  only  one  or  two  buds  or 
eyes.  Sometimes,  instead  of  covering  only  the  lower 
end  of  the  cutting,  and  leaving  one  or  more  eyes  above 
the  soil,  the  piece  of  vine  is  all  covered  under,  a  prac- 
tice called  cultivating  by  layers.  Plants  raised  from 
cuttings  are  generally  preferred.  These  should  be 
selected  a  year  before  they  are  wanted,  and  transferred 
to  very  large  pots,  by  which  means  they  will  be  made 
strong  rooted  and  vigorous 

Another  mode  of  raising  from  layers  is  to  bend  down 
a  vine  or  shoot  into  a  hole. dug  about  four  inches  deep, 
and  cover  it  up  firmly  with  earth,  leaving  the  growing 
extremity  outside.  In  dry  weather,  occasional  water- 
ings will  be  necessary.  In  the  month  of  November, 
the  layer  will  be  found  to  have  taken  sufficient  root  to 
admit  of  being  separated  from  the  parent  vine  and 
planted  wherever  desired.  It  should  be  cut  down  so  as 
to  show  about  two  eyes  above  the  ground,  only  one  of 
which  should  be  allowed  to  grow  the  first  year. 

Grafting  is  sometimes  resorted  to,  either  on  the  stock 
above  ground,  or  on  the  main  root  just  below  the  ground. 
This  succeeds  best  when  the  cion  has  been  kept  in  a 
cool  place  and  kept  back.  Either  whip,  tongue,  or 
wedge-grafting  may  be  adopted. 

G-7'afting  of  the  G-raije-vme. — One  of  the  newest 
practices  in  horticulture  is  the  grafting  of  the  grape- 
vine with  detached  cions,  as  introduced  by  Mr.  William 
Gowans,  the  judicious  gardener  at  Gadder  House,  near 
Glasgow.     It  has  been  found  perfectly  successful,  and 


GRAPE-VINE.  79 

very  convenient,  by  some  of  the  most  distinguished 
practical  horticulturists  in  Scotland — Mr.  Macdonald 
at  Dalkeith,  Mr.  Smith  at  Hopetoun,  and  Mr.  Shiels  at 
Erskine.  It  seems  proper,  therefore,  to  describe  mi- 
nutely the  mode  of  performing  the  operation. 

The  distinctive  feature  of  the  method  is,  that  it  avoids 
the  usual  mode  of  grafting  vines  by  approach,  with  all 
its  inconvenient  restraints,  and  substitutes  a  simple 
scheme  of  grafting  by  detached  cions.  The  following 
are  the  directions  given  by  Mr.  Gowans  himself,  which 
will  be  rendered  plain  by  looking  at  the  annexed  sketch: 

Fi^.  11. 


*'  Select  a  cion  with  one  eye,  and  cut  it  in  the  form 
of  a  wedge.  For  a  stock,  select  a  shoot  h  of  the  pre- 
ceding year,  about  the  same  thickness  as  the  cion,  and 
cut  it  over  a  little  above  the  second  eye  from  the  old 
wood.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  it  down  the  centre  nearly 
to  the  old  wood.  Out  of  the  centre,  pare  with  a  pen- 
J^nife  as  much  as  is  necessary  to  make  it  fit  the  cuts  on 
the  side  of  the  cion.  Then  insert  the  cion  a  with  its 
eye  opposite  to  that  on  the  top  of  the  stock.  Tie  it  up 
and  clay  it  over  in  the  usual  manner,  with  this  differ- 
ence, that  you  cover  nearly  the  whole  of  the  cion  with 


80  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

the  clay,  leaving  only  small  holes  for  the  eyes.  Tie 
some  hypnum-moss  upon  the  clay,  npon  which  sprinkle 
a  little  water  occasionally  to  keep  the  whole  in  a  moist 
state  for  some  time.  What  is  of  essential  importance 
to  success  in  this  method  is  the  leaving  of  the  eye  or 
youfig  shoot  on  the  top  of  the  stock,  and  allowing  it  to 
grow  for  ten  or  fourteen  days,  when  it  should  be  cut 
off,  leaving  only  one  eye  and  one  leaf  to  draw  sap  to 
the  cion,  till  it  be  fairly  united'to  the  stock.  "With  re- 
gard to  the  time  of  grafting,  it  will  succeed  pretty  well 
when  the  stocks  are  about  to  break  into  leaf.  But 
there  is  more  certainty  of  success  when  the  shoots  of 
the  stock  have  made  four  or  five  eyes  of  new  wood,  for 
by  this  time  the  sap  has  begun  to  flow  freely,  and  the 
danger  of  bleeding  is  over." 

It  is  evident,  that  by  this  mode  of  grafting  vines, 
many  different  kinds  of  grapes  may  be  tried  in  the 
course  of  three  or  four  years,  even  in  a  very  limited 
vinery,  and  the  best  and  most  successful  retained  in 
cultivation. 

A  mode  of  propagating  which  is  thought  to  produce  ■ 
the  finest  plants  for  fruiting  of  all  others,  is  that  by 
the  single  eye.  This  is  generally  done  early  in  Feb- 
ruary or  March,  by  cutting  the  wood  of  the  preceding 
year's  growth,  so  as  to  have  but  one  eye  on  each  piece, 
leaving  about  an  inch  of  wood  on  each  side  of  the  eye. 
These  sectionB  are  to  be  planted  in  pots  with  suitable 
mould,  one  to  every  pot,  and  placed  under  glassj  in 
either  hot  or  cold  frames,  or  in  the  window  of  a  warm 
room,  and  carefully  watered.  By  constant  repotting 
and  watering  with  liquid  manure,  they  may  be  made 
to  grow  ten  or  twelve  feet  the  first  year.     One  of  the 


GRAPE-VINE.  81 

advantages  ascribed  to  vines  raised  thus  from  single 
eyes,  is  that  of  having  shorter  joints,  which  renders 
them  capable  of  producing  a  larger  amount  of  fruit. 

Planting  Out.  —  When  the  vines  raised  in  pots  or 
otherwise  are  to  be  transplanted,  the  months  gene- 
rally preferred  are  October  and  November  in  autumn, 
and  in  the  spring  March  and  April.  In  ground  pro- 
perly prepared,  a  hole  is  to  be  dug  about  eighteen 
inches  deep,  and  wide  enough  at  bottom  to  allow  the 
roots  to  spread  out  to  their  fullest  extent  without 
binding.  Any  that  appear  broken  or  diseased  should 
be  cut  off.  The  side  roots  should  be  covered  shallow, 
and  fine  earth,  or,  what  is  far  better,  rich  compost  or 
vegetable  mould  added  so  as  to  fill  up  the  hole.  Then 
pour  in  three  or  four  gallons  of  water,  after  the  sink- 
ing of  which  more  earth  is  to  be  added,  and  pressed 
down  gently  with  the  foot.  During  the  first  season's 
growth  all  the  side  shoots  are  to  be  pruned,  so  as  to 
leave  but  two  eyes  on  each. 

In  yards  and  gardens,  along  walls,  fences,  or  open 
borders,  low  training  may  be  adopted  wherever  there 
is  sufficient  room.  Vines  may  be  conducted  horizon- 
tally, so  as  to  extend  a  great  distance  under  the  pro- 
jecting edges  or  copings  of  a  wall  or  close  fence, 
especially  where  these  face  the  east.  In  cities  they 
may  be  taken  up  from  close  and  gloomy  yards  to  the 
tops  of  houses,  three  or  four  stories,  high,  and  there 
spread  out  upan  arbors,  and  exposed  to  the  influ- 
ences of  the  sun  and  air,  so  as  to  be  made  produce 
abundance  of  delightful  fruit.  Or,  they  may  be  trained 
low  like  currant  bushes,  three,  four,  or  more  shoots 
being  allowed  to  grow  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  above 
8 


82  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

the  ground  to  give  an  annual  supply  of  young  bearing- 
wood. 

American  fence-rows  would  seem  to  offer  a  pecu- 
liarly fine  situation  for  the  grape-culture,  the  posts  and 
rails  oiFering  such  admirable  means  of  support.  To 
what  great  profit  might  the  immense  amount  of  land 
be  put  which  is  now  taken  up  by  fences  and  entirely 
lost  to  culture,  and  this  too  without  injury  to  the  regu- 
lar grain  crops  from  .  shading  ?  Intelligent  farmers 
would  do  well  to  adopt  a  course  which  would  not  only 
supply  their  families  with  abundance  of  wholesome 
fruit,  but  afford  a  source  of  regular  profit. 

When  vines  are  trained  as  standards,  according  to 
the  practice  pursued  in  Northern  France  or  Germany, 
the  main  stalk  or  stem  is  not  allowed  to  be  over  six  or 
eight  inches  high.  From  this,  two  or  three  shoots  are 
trained  by  being  tied  to  a  stake  three  or  four  feet  high. 
These  shoots  will  produce  two  or  three  bunches  each, 
within  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  the  ground,  and  they 
will  be  succeeded  annually  by  others  springing  from 
the  crown  or  top  of  the  dwarf  main  stem.  In  Southern 
Europe  the  base  or  main  stem  is  often  left  higher,  and 
its  side  shoots  secured  to  poles  many  feet  high. 

PrUniyig. — This  is  done  at  two  distinct  periods ;  what 
is  called  Summer  Pruning  consists  in  pinching  off  the 
shoots  having  no  fruit,  or  such  as >  are  not  required  for 
the  succeeding  year.  The  fruit  bearing  shoots,  as  well 
^s  those  left  for  succeeding  seasons,  must  also  be 
topped. 

The  Winter  Pruning  consists  in  trimming  off  all  the 
wood  that  has  borne,  and  shortening  the  new  bearing 
wood  for  next  year,  to  three  or  four  eyes  in  cold  situa- 
tions, and  to  six  or  eight  in  warmer  exposures. 


GRAPE  VINE.  83 

Soil. — In  almost  any  good  deep  and  dry  soil,  the 
grape-vine  will  thrive.  Where  the  soil  is  shallow,  very 
dry  and  gravelly,  the  produce  will  be  less  in  quantity, 
but  of  better  flavor  than  that  raised  on  rich  and  deep 
ground.    ^ 

Manures  for  Grape- Vines. — Dr.  Liebig  refers  to 
instances  where  vines  have  been  maintained  in  a  pro- 
ductive condition  for  twenty  to  thirty  years,  by  simply 
returning  to  them  their  leaves  and  trimmings,  the 
last  being  cut  into  small  pieces  and  dug  into  the  soil 
by  means  of  a  spade  or  hoe.  Some  manures  favor  the 
growth  of  wood  and  foliage  rather  than  fruit.  High 
manuring  will  generally  have  this  effect,  a  rule  which 
is  applicable  to  all  other  plants  or  trees.  Hence,  the 
judicious  selection  and  application  of  manures  are  im- 
portant matters.  Ground  bones,  horn  shavings,  old 
woolen  rags,  the  dust  and  dirt  from  paved  roads  and 
streets,  perfectly  rotted  stable  manure,  poudrette,  are 
some  of  the  best. 

To  believe  that  the  vine  will  continue  to  bear  to  all 
time,  with  no  other  nourishment  than  it  receives  from 
its  own  refuse,  is  inconsistent  with  the  revelations  of 
recent  scientific  researches.  Organic  chemistry  shows 
us  what  the  fruit  extracts  from  the  soil,  among  which 
are  large  proportions  of  phosphate  of  lime  and  potash. 
A  portion  of  the  last  may  be  restored  by  the  return 
of  the  trimmings  and  leaves.  But  ultimately  the  potash 
required  by  the  vine  must  be  exhausted  wherever  there 
is  not  a  granitic  soil  to  furnish  it,  by  the  decomposition 
of  its  felspar  or  mica.  As  to  the  phosphate  of  lime 
taken  away  with  the  fruit,  scarcely  any  portion  of  which 
is  returned  by  the  vine-wood  and  leaves,  this  must  be 


84  FRUTT  (JARDEN. 

supplied  to  the  vine  in  some  form,  or  otherwise  its  pro- 
ductiveness must  be  very  limited. 

Management  of  the  Vine  under  Glass. — The  vines 
may  be  planted  either  on  the  inside  or  outside  of  the 
grapery,  to  correspond  with  the  rafters  to  which  they  are 
to  be  trained.  "VYhen  on  the  outside,  a  bank  of  earth 
is  to  be  raised  over  the  roots,  and  the  vines  brought 
under  the  outer  wall  through  appropriate  notches. 

Training  and  Pi^uning. — The  main  stems  are  to  be 
cut  off  even  with  the  bottom  of  the  glass,  and  two 
shoots  allowed  to  start  from  it  the  first  season,  and  if 
any  fruit  appears,  one  bunch  may  be  allowed  to  grow 
on  the  strongest  shoot.  Train  the  shoots  up  the  rafters 
as  high  as  they  will  go,  but  do  not  top  them  when  a 
third  or  half  way  up,  as  some  have  advised.  The  suc- 
ceeding winter  lay  the  strongest  shoot  within  two  or 
three  feet  of  the  past  season's  grow^th,  cutting  the 
weakest  shoot  to  within  one  eye  of  the  preceding  sea- 
son's growth.  The  strongest  stem  may  have  ten  or 
twelve  eyes  all  producing  fruit,  of  which  one  bunch 
may  be  allowed  to  each  eye.  The  Aveakest  branch  left 
without  any  fruit  may  be  permitted  to  grow  as  much 
as  it  will.  The  second  winter  cut  back  the  strong  shoot 
to  within  two  eyes  of  the  old  wood,  and  allow  one  shoot 
to  grow  from  it.  One  shoot  is  to  be  trained  without 
fruit  for  next  season's  crop.  Four  shoots  may  be  finally 
left  on  the  vine,  one-half  of  which  may  be  allowed  to 
bear  every  year,  the  other  two  being  cut  back  for  fruit- 
ing the  following  season.  This  is  commonly  termed 
the  long  cane  system^  and  is  regarded  as  the  most  sim- 
ple and  very  best  method  of  pruning  followed  in  the 
United  States. 

Pruning    consists  of   winter  pruning    and    summer 


GRAPE-VINE. 


'pruning^  operations  very  different  from  each  other. 
What  is  commonly  styled  the  Spur  system  of  training 
and  2)runi'}ig  is  managed  as  follows :  Allow  each  stem 
to  extend  the  whole  height  of  the  house,  and  if  the 
first  year  it  does  not  attain  the  size  of  three  inches 
round,  it  is  to  be  cut  back  and  .allowed  another  year's 
growth.  Should  it  attain  more  than  three  inches  in 
circumference,  it  must  be  regarded  as  too  strong,  and 
cut  down  to  within  about  four  feet  of  the  old  wood. 
Young  spurs  will  put  out  to  bear  fruit,  and  one  bunch 
may  be  taken  from  each,  the  growth  of  each  spur  being 
stopped  two  eyes  above  the  bunches.  These  spurs  are 
cut  back  at  each  winter  pruning,  so  as  leave  two  or 
three  eyes  on  each.  These  again  sending  out  spurs, 
one  bunch  is  to  be  taken  from  each,  and  so  continue 
from  year  to  year.  Never  take  more  than  one  bunch 
from  a  single  eye. 

Hoare,  in  his  excellent  treatise  upon  the  vine,  has 
reduced  to  a  scale  its  bearing  capacities  at  certain 
stages  of  its  growth.  The  greatest  quantity  of  grapes 
which  any  vine  can  mature,  in  proportion  to  the  cir- 
cumference of  its  stem  or  base  measured  three  inches 
above  the  ground,  is  as  follows : — 
-When  3  inches  in  circumference         5  lbs. 

4  " 

5  " 

6  " 

7  " 

8  " 

9  " 
10  " 


iferenc 

;e         5 

a 

10 

a 

15 

a 

20 

a 

36 

'i 

45 

a 

b^ 

Q^ 


io 


86  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

The  Autumnal  Pruning  or  Training  should  take 
place  immediately  after  the  falling  of  the  leaves,  and 
the  wood  of  the  year  jnst  finished  should  never  be 
trimmed  back  to  but  one  eye,  instead  of  which  a  long 
spur  of  three  eyes  must  be  left,  since  one  or  more  may 
be  defective.  The  surplus  eyes  can  be  rubbed  off  after 
securing  the  setting  of  the  fruit  during  the  earliest 
stage  of  its  growth  the  ensuing  season. 

In  Summer  Pruning,  every  shoot  must  be  stopped 
two  leaves  above  the  bunch,  after  which  new  lateral 
shoots  will  soon  be  produced.  These  again  must  be 
stopped  by  pinching  off  about  every  fortnight,  to  pre- 
serve the  strength  of  the  plant  for  the  perfection  of  the 
fruit. 

High  training  is  generally  pursued  from  observing 
that  the  most  vigorous  shoots  and  best  fruit  are  usually 
found  at  the  extremities  of  the  branches,  especially 
'those  situated  highest.  It  has  been  observed  that 
native  vines  seldom  or  never  throw  out  bearing  shoots 
before  reaching  the  tops  of  trees  on  which  they  seek 
support,  when  the  branches  generally  assume  a  hori- 
zontal direction. 

By  far  the  most  of  the  foreign  grapes  raised  in  the 
United  States,  under  glass,  are  brought  forward  with- 
out fire-heat;  the  sun's  rays,  when  properly  taken 
advantage  of,  being  sufficient  to  produce  maturity  in 
almost  every  variety.  The  routine  of  the  grape-house 
culture  without  fire-heat  is  as  follows:  The  vines  which 
had  been  trimmed,  and  perhaps  laid  down  in  the  be- 
ginning of  winter,  should  be  raised  up  and  washed 
with  strong  soapsuds,  to  which  some  tobacco  decoction 
may  be  added.     They  should  have  all  the  rough  bark 


GRAPE-VINE.  87 

removed,  and  cleaned  tlioronghly,  after  -wliicli  they 
^may  be  tied  up  in  their  proper  places.  After  they  put 
outj  they  should  be  syringed  with  water  about  an  hour 
after  sunrise  every  morning,  should  the  sashes  be  on 
the  house.  After  the  fruit  has  set,  the  vines  may  be 
syringed  every  afternoon,  the  house  being  previously 
shut  up,  not  to  be  re-opened  till  the  sun  has  warmed 
up  the  air  next  day,  usually 'about  nine  or  ten  o'clock, 
at  which  time  the  top  sashes  may  be  let  down  to  admit 
air,  and  the  thermometer  not  allowed  to  rise  above 
ninety  or  one  hundred  degrees.  When  the  fruit  attains 
the  size  of  peas,  the  syringing  is  discontinued  by  some, 
whilst  by  others  it  is  kept  up  till  the  grapes  begin  to 
change  color. 

As  the  season  advances,  and  during  the  sultry  days 
of  July  and  August,  mildew  is  to  be  looked  for,  and 
may  be  readily  recognized  by  the  yellowish  and  sickly 
transparency  of  the  leaves,  which  have  a  soft  and 
greasy  feel.  The  destruction  wrOught  through  mildew 
is  often  so  rapid  and  extensive  that  where  the  least 
signs  appear,  the  most  prompt  measures  should  be  taken 
to  check  its  extension.  Copious  syringing  with  water, 
twice  a  day,  is  recommended  as  one  of  the  best  reme- 
dies, allowing  the  freest  possible  circulation  of  the  air 
from  ten  to  three  o'clock,  if  the  sun  shines.  When  the 
disease  has  made  considerable  progress,  flour  of  sulphur 
may  be  added  to  the  water  with  which  the  syringing  is 
effected.  Four  gallons  of  boiling  water  may  be  poured 
over  five  pounds  of  the  sulphur,  and  after  it  has  been 
well  stirred  and  allowed  to  settle,  a  gallon  of  this  water 
maybe  added  to  that  commonly  made  use  of  in  syring- 
ing.    Never  allow  cold  draughts  of  air  through  open 


88  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

doors,  &c.,  to  pass  immediately  among  the  vines. 
After  stopping  syringing,  the  roots  should  be  watered 
every  week. 

Pruning.— 'Mo^t  of  the  pruning  required  in  summer 
may  be  performed  without  a  knife,  the  shoots  being  so 
tender  as  to  be  readily  pinched  off  by  the  fingers.  Select 
the  shoots  which  are  to  be  trained  for  the  next  year's 
crop,  and  others  necessary  for  filling  the  trellis  from 
the  bottom.  These  shoots  should  generally  be  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart.  All  those  between,  and 
having  no  clusters,  are  to  be  removed;  and  those  left, 
and  having  clusters,  are  to  be  shortened  so  as  to  leave 
one  joint  above  the  uppermost  cluster.  To  effect  this 
properly,  the  vines,  when  first  showing  their  fruit, 
should  be  gone  over  every  three  or  four  days,  till  all 
the  shoots  have  shown  their  clusters. 

Thinning  and  Spreading. — Those  who  desire  to  have 
the  very  largest  and  best  fruit  that  can  be  raised  from 
the  vine,  must  resort  to  the  practice  of  thinning  out  a 
portion,  whilst  yet  green  and  about  the  size  of  garden 
peas.  This  is  done  by  cutting  off  with  narrow-pointed 
scissors,  from  one-fourth  to  a  third  of  the  berries. 
The  grapes  left  will  thus  have  room  to  swell  freely,  and 
though  reduced  in  numbers,  will  be  the  same  in  w^eight, 
as  if  all  had  been  left  on.  The  bunches  of  the  large- 
growing  kinds  will  be  protected  from  the  effects  of 
damp,  or  mouldiness,  by  having  their  shoulders  spread 
out  and  suspended  to  the  trellis  or  branches,  by  strands 
of  fresh  matting.  If  th.ey  appear  crowded  before  they 
begin  to  color,  some  berries  may  still  be  clipped  off, 
but  care  must  be  observed  not  to  touch  them  after 
coloring,  for  fear  t)f  rubbing  off  some  of  the  bloom 
which  constitutes  so  much  of  their  beauty. 


FIG-TREE.  89' 

Any  person  having  a  green-house  for  the  protection 
of  tender  plants  and  exotics,  can,  with  little  or  no  ad- 
ditional expense,  manage  to  make  it  secure  him  every 
year  a  crop  of  the  finest  kinds  of  foreign  grapes.  The 
vines  may  be  planted  outside  near  the  front  wall,  in 
the  lower  part  of  which  openings  are  to  be  left  in  the 
brick  or  wood-work,  to  permit  the  vines  to  be  passed  in 
or  drawn  out.  As  soon  as  the  weather  will  admit  the 
plants  to  be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  the  vines  may  be 
passed  into  the  house  and  attached  to  the  rafters  or 
other  supports,  where  they  are  to  be  trained  and  treated 
according  to  the  rules  laid  down  for  their  management. 
In  the  fall,  the  ripe  grapes  may  be  taken  off,  the  vines 
trimmed,  withdrawn  from  the  house,  and  properly 
bound  up  and  secured  against  the  frosts  of  winter. 
Meantime,  the  hot-house  plants  are  enjoying  their  ap- 
propriate places  of  protection. 

Much  useful  information  relating  to  the  proper 
management  of  vines  in  graperies  will  be  found  under 
the  head  of  Pruniyig  and  Training^  when  describing 
the  operations  of  the  forcing  garden. 

The  Fig-Tree  (Ficus  Carica)  is  not  a  great  favorite 
in  Britain,  the  fresh  fruit  not  being  much  relished, 
and  the  tables  being  supplied  with  a  vast  abundance  of 
dried  figs  imported  from  the  Mediterranean  couatries. 
Every  good  garden  ought,  however,  to  contain  a  few 
trees,  to  furnish  an  occasional  dish;  and  we  doubt  not 
that  the  fresh  fruit,  if  it  were  more  common  and  better 
grown,  would  be  more  liked.  The  foliage  of  the  tree  is 
large  and  elegant,  aud  the  mode  of  fructification  is 
curious  :  the  pulpy  part,  which  we  call  the  fruit,  being. 


90  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

in  fact,  a  common  receptacle,  and  the  anthers  and  stig- 
mata being  produced  inside.  The  nomenclature  of  figs 
is  still  v.erj  uncertain,  and  it  is  with  some  hesitation 
that  we  give  the  following  names  : — 

1.  Black  Ischia.  5.  Brown  Turkey. 

2.  Black  Genoa.  G.  Pregussata. 

3.  Brunswick  or  Madonna.  7.  Lee's  Perpetual. 

4.  Brown  Ischia  or  Miller's  8.  Early  White. 

chestnut  fig.  9.  Marseilles  or  Figue  blanche. 

Of  these,  the  Marseilles,  the  Early  White,  Black  Ischia, 
and  Brown  Turkey,  are  the  best  adapted  for  forcing  ; 
the  others  are  suitable  for  walls.  Lee's  Perpetual 
answers  well  for  either  mode  of  culture ;  but  is  not  re- 
cognized by  Loudon  or  by  Lindley  as  a  distinct  va- 
riety. 

Fig-trees  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings  put  into 
flower-pots,  and  placed  in  a  gentle  hot-bed.  They  are, 
however,  most  speedily  obtained  from  layers.  The 
shoots  laid  down  should  be  two  or  three  years  old;  and 
these  when  rooted  will  form  plants  ready  to  bear  fruit 
the  first  or  second  year  after  planting.  Suckers  ought 
never  to  be  used. 

In  some  places  in  England,  fig-trees  are  planted  out 
as  standards  ;  and  in  Kent  and  Sussex,  a  few  small  fig 
orchards  exist.  In  Scotland,  a  south  wall  is  indispen- 
sable, trained  to  which,  in  good  situations,  and  when 
the  trees  are  old  enough,  they  bear  remarkably  well. 
The  best  soil  for  a  fig  border  is  a  rich  friable  loam,  on 
a  subsoil  not  retentive  of  moisture,  or  which  has  been 
effectually  drained.  It  is  advantageous  to  have  a  lofty 
wall,  and  the  trees  should  be  planted  at  considerable 


FIG-TREE.  91 

distances,  perhaps  not  nearer  than  forty  feet,  to  allow 
them  full  space  to  exhaust  their  luxuriance. 

It  is  of  the  nature  of  the  jBg-tree  to  produce  two  sets 
of  shoots  and  two  crops  of  fruit  in  the  season.  The 
first  shoots  generally  show'young  figs  in  July  and  Au- 
gust, but  these  in  the  English  climate  very  seldom  ripen. 
The  late  or  midsummer  shoots  likewise  put  forth  fruit- 
buds,  which,  however,  do  not  develop  themselves  till 
the  following  spring,  and  then  form  the  only  crop  of 
figs  on  which  we  can  depend  in  Britain. 

Various  modes  of  training  fig-trees  have  been  pro- 
posed. Mr.  Lindley  recommends  the  horizontal  form. 
Mr.  Knight  carries  up  a  central  stem  perpendicularly  to 
the  top  of  the  wall,  and  then  radiates  the  side-branches 
horizontally  and  pendently,  in  close  contact  with  the 
wall.  Luxuriance  of  growth  is  supposed  thus  to  be 
checked,  and  the  branches  thrown  into  a  bearing  habit. 
The  finest  fig-trees  which  we  have  seen  in  Scotland  are 
trained  in  the  old  fan  form.  The  shoots  are  laid  in, 
thinly,  at  full  length,  and  encouraged  to  extend  them- 
selves as  fast  as  possible,  precaution,  however,  being 
taken  to  leave  no  part  of  the  tree  bare  of  young  wood. 
Much  of  the  pruning  is  performed  in  summer  by  pinch- 
ing off  unnecessary  shoots,  and  the  knife  is  seldom  em- 
ployed, except  in  removing  naked  branches,  or  in  cut- 
ting back  to  procure  a  supply  of  young  wood.  Some 
cultivators  break  off  the  points  of  the  spring  shoots,  in 
order  to  produce  laterals,  but  this  must  be  done  at  an 
early  period,  not  later  perhaps  than  midsummer,  other- 
wise the  young  shoots  will  not  ripen.  The  Rev.  G. 
Swayne  recommends  rubbing  off  all  the  young  figs  which 
appear  in  autumn  on  shoots  of  the  same  year,  observing 
that  for  every  young  fig  thus  displaced  the  rudiments 


92  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

of  one,  or  perhaps  two  others,  are  formed  before  -winter, 
and  developed  in  the  following  year.* 

The  winter  dressing  of  the  fig-tree  takes  place  im- 
mediately after  the  fall  of  the  leaf.  The  immature  figs 
which  may  remain  are  removed,  irregularities  are  cor- 
rected, and  the  shoots  nailed  neatly  to  the  wall.  Va- 
rious modes  of  protecting  the  branches  during  winter 
have  been  adopted.  At  Argenteuil,  where  figs  are  cul- 
tivated on  standards  for  the  Paris  market,  the  lower 
branches  are  bent  downwards,  and  buried  about  six 
inches  deep  in  the  soil ;  while  the  upper  branches  are 
tied  together,  and  bound  round  with  straw  and  litter. 
Mr.  Swayne  mentions  that  he  wraps  up  the  young 
shoots  with  waste  paper.  Mr.  Forsyth  recommends 
covering  wall  fig-trees  with  the  spray  of  laurel  or  yew, 
and  then  tucking  in  short  grass  or  moss  (Jiypnum) 
among  the  spray.  Mr.  Smith,  first  at  Ormiston  Hall, 
and  afterwards  at  Hopetoun  House,  has  found  ( Cal. 
Sort.  Soc.  Mem.,  vol.  ii.)  a  covering  of  spruce-fir 
branches  to  be  very  elFectual.  The  branches  are  so 
placed  as  to  overlap  each  other,  and  to  form  a  layer 
nearly  equally  thick  on  every  part  of  the  tree.  The 
foliage  of  the  spruce  branches  remains  green  till  March, 
and  as  the  light  and  heat  increase,  the  dried  leaves 
gradually  fall  off,  and  admit  air  and  sun  to  the  fig 
branches  below. 

Mr.  Monk  {Lond.  Hort.  Trans.,  vol.  v.)  states  that 
the  same  fig-tree  seldom  produces  fruit  containing  both 
perfect  stamens  and  pistils,  and  conjectures  that  this  is 
the  cause  of  the  fruit  being  so  often  prematurely  shed. 

*  It  is  a  proverb  in  fig  culture  that  "the  more  you  prune  the 
less  your  crop." 


THE  PEACH.  y3 

Caprificatwn,  or  assisting  the  fructifying  and  matura- 
tion of  figs,  lias  often  been  sneered  at;  but  here  we  see 
reason  in  that  kind  of  it  which  consisted  in  hanging  or 
shaking  the  branches  of  the  wild  fig  {eaprificiis)  over 
the  cultivated  tree  at  the  time  when  both  were  in 
blossom. 

^'  There  is  something  very  singular  in  the  fructifica- 
tion of  the  fig:  it  has  no  visible  flower,  for  the  fruit 
arises  immediately  from  the  joints  of  the  tree,  in  the 
form  of  little  buds,  with  a  perforation  at  the  end.  but 
not  opening  or  showing  anything  like  petals  or  the 
ordinary  parts  of  fructification.  As  the  fig  enlarges, 
the  flower  comes  to  maturity  in  concealment,  and  in 
eastern  countries  the  fruit  is  improved  by  a  singular 
operation  called  caprification.  This  is  performed  by 
suspending  by  threads,  above  the  cultivated  figs, 
branches  of  the  wild  fig,  which  are  full  of  a  species  of 
cynips.  When  the  insect  has  become  winged,  it  quits 
the  wild  fig  and  penetrates  the  cultivated  ones,  for  the 
purpose  of  laying  its  eggs  ;  and  thus  it  appears  both  to 
insure  the  fructification  by  dispersing  the  pollen,  and 
afterwards  to  hasten  the  ripening  by  puncturing  the 
pulp  and  causing  a  change  of  the  nutritious  juices.  In 
France  this  operation  is  imitated  by  inserting  straws 
dipped  in  olive-oil." — Lib.  of  Ent.  Kiioivledge. 

The  Peach  [Amygdalus  Persica)  is  a  stone-fruit  of 
oriental  origin,  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Persia 
by  the  Romans  about  the  beginning  of  the  empire ; 
but  the  precise  period  of  its  introduction  into  our 
British  gardens,  of  which  it  has  long  been  the  pride 
and  ornament,  is  not  well  ascertained.  There  are  two 
principal  varieties :  the  Peach,  properly  so  called,  with 
9  " 


94  FRUIT  GARDEN.  " 

a  downy  skin;  and  the  Nectarine,  with  a  smooth  skin. 
These,  following  the  authority  of  Linnaeus,  we  consider 
as  one  species  ;  and  as  their  culture  is  precisely  the 
same,  we  shall  speak  of  them  as  distinct  only  when  re- 
ferring to  their  sub-varieties.  Each  of  these  varieties 
is  again  divided  by  gardeners  into  freestones  or  pecTies, 
and  clmgstones  or  |;ar/es,  according  as  the  stone  parts 
freely  from  the  pulp  or  adheres  to  it.  \Ye  shall  here 
treat  chiefly  of  the  freestones,  as  being  most  hardy  and 
fittest  for  the  open  wall  in  Britain. 

Mr.  George  Lindley,  whose  arrangement  is  the  best 
that  has  hitherto  been  published,  enumerates  60  kinds 
of  peaches  and  28  of  nectarines.  In  the  Horticultural 
Society's  Catalogue  the  names  of  183  peaches,  and  of 
(Sb  nectarines,  are  recorded.  AYe  doubt  not  but  that 
in  America,  where  the  trees  are  commonly  raised  from 
kernels,  and  grown  as  standards,  endless  varieties  and 
sub-varieties  might  be  collected.  To  enumerate  even 
the  limited  number  existing  in  Britain  would  far  exceed 
our  limits ;  we  shall,  therefore,  notice  only  a  few  of 
those  which  are  most  distinct  and  best  adapted  to  the 
English  climate. 

Peaches. 

Red  Nutmeg,  or  Avant  rouge  of  the  French. — This 
is  one  of  the  earliest  peaches,  ripening  in  England  about 
the  beginning  of  August.  The  fruit  small ;  color  pale 
yellow  towards  the  wall,  bright  vermilion  next  the  sun; 
pulp  white,  but  red  at  the  core  ;  the  juice  rich  and 
musky.     The  tree  is  an  abundant  bearer. 

Acton  Scot. — This  was  raised  by  Mr.  Knight  between 
the  noblesse  and  the  nutmeg  peach,  in  1814.  The  fruit 
is  red  next  the   sun,  and  white    on    the    other   side. 


THE  PEACH.  95 

ripening  in  August;  the  pulp  rich,  juicy,  and  saccha- 
rine; the  tree  is  a  good  bearer,  and  not  apt  to  be 
affected  with  mildew. 

Spring- G-rove. — This  is  another  of  Mr.  Knight's 
peaches,  raised  from  the  grosse  mignonne  crossed  with 
the  pollen  of  the  nutmeg.  It  is  dark  red  on  one  side 
and  bright  yellow  on  the  other ;  pulp  firm,  but  melting, 
and  of  excellent  flavor.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer, 
especially  when  on  an  apricot  stock.  The  fruit  ripens 
in  the  beginning  of  September. 

Grosse  dlignonne,  L.  Sort.  Qat.^  or  NeiVs  Early 
Puri^le. — Fruit  large;  skin  pale  yellow,  and  deep  purple 
next  the  sun ;  flesh  melting ;  juice  plentiful,  and  of  de- 
licious flavor.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer,  and  forces 
well,  but  the  fruit  does  not  bear  carriage.  It  ripens 
in  the  end  of  August  and  beginning  of  September. 

Madeleine  de  Courson ;- Bed  Magdalen  of  Miller. — 
Blossoms  large ;  fruit  rather  below  the  middle  size  ; 
color  yellowish-white  next  the  wall,  beautiful  red  next 
the  sun  ;  flesh  white,  with  very  little  red  at  th6  stone  ; 
juice  rich  and  vinous.  Tree  a  good  bearer;  fruit  ripen- 
ing about  the  beginning  of  September.  "  An  excellent 
peach,''  says  Mr.  Lindley,  '-^  and  ought  to  be  found  in 
every  collection." 

Eoi/al  G-eorge. — This  is  a  well-known  peach,  much 
cultivated.  By  nurserymen  it  is  often  given  out  under 
the .  name  of  Pved  Magdalen ;  but  the  blossoms  are 
small,  while  those  of  the  Magdalen  are  large.  Against 
a  good  wall  the  fruit  often  ripens  in  the  beginning  of 
September,  and  even  in  indifferent  seasons  by  the  middle 
of  that  month.  Fruit  large,  purplish-red  next  the  sun, 
whitish  where  shaded  ;  flesh  white,  varied  with  red  next 
the  stone,  Avhich  is  free  ;  melting,  rich,  with  an  abun- 


96  FRUIT  (JARDEN. 

dant  sugary  juice.  It  is  also  one  of  the  best  kinds  for 
a  peach-house,  fruiting  freely,  and  ripening  vfeW.  The 
foliage  is,  however,  rather  subject  to  mildew. 

Noblesse. — This  has  long  and  de&ervedly  been  a  fa- 
vorite in  our  gardens.  It  is  a  very  large  fruit ;  the 
skin  pale,  red  when  ripe;  the  flesh  juicy  and  rich. 
The  tree  is  a  good  bearer,  and  the' fruit  ripens  in  Sep- 
tember. 

Bellegarde ;  the  G-alande  of  the  nurseries. — Fruit 
large  and  globular ;  skin  deep  red,  with  purple  streaks 
on  the  sunny  side ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  very  melting  ; 
juice  rich.  An  excellent  peach ;  the  tree  forces  well, 
and  the  fruit  ripens  on  the  open  wall  about  the  middle 
of  September. 

Barrington,  sometimes  called  Buckingham  Mignonne, 
is  a  handsome  fruitj  rather  large,  of  a  pale  yellowish- 
green  next  the  wall,  but  deep  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh 
melting,  juicy,  and  very  rich,  yellowish-white,  slightly 
rayed  with  crimson  next  the  stone  ;  ripens  about  the 
middle  of  September.  The  tree  bears  forcing  well,  and 
is  not  subject  to  mildew. 

Late  Admirable,  or  La  Royale. — Fruit  large ;  skin 
pale  green  next  the  wall,  pale  red  on  the  sunny  side ; 
flesh  greenish  white,  red  at  the  stone ;  juice  abundant, 
and,  when  well  ripened,  of  a  high  flavor*  "  One  of 
the  very  best  late  peaches,"  says  Mr.  Thompson,  "and 
ought  to  be  in  every  collection."  It  is  very  proper  for 
the  peach-house,  to  succeed  the  earlier  sorts. 

Nearly  allied  to  the  preceding  is  the  Teton  de  Venus, 
a  beautiful  fruit,  but  requiring  a  Avarm  situation.  In 
a  good  season  it  ripens  at  the  -end  of  September  J  is 
saccharine,  and  at  the  same  time  of  fine  flavor. 

George  the  Fourth.     L.  Hort.   Cat.  Qb ;  American 


TII13  PEACH.  97 

Orahardist^  p.  223. — This  is  a  fine  large  peach  of 
American  origin  ;  bears  forcing  well,  and  is  a  semi- 
clingstone.     It  requires  a  flued  wall  in  England. 

Ajaaong  other  excellent  peaches  may  be  mentioned  : 
Freestones,  'Chancellor,  Knight's  Early,  Downton  Early, 
Malta,  or  Belle  de  Paris,  Royal  Charlotte,  and. Wil- 
liam's Early  Purple ;  Clingstones,  Catharine,  Heath, 
and  Old  Newington. 

The  following  account  of  the  modes  of  cultivating 
the  peach  in  England,  whilst  it  shows  the  impediments 
opposed  by  nature  to  the  development  of  this  fruit  in 
that  climate,  may  prove  useful  to  those  who  reside  in 
the  more  northern  United  States  and  British  Colonies 
where  the  climate  is  unfavourable  to  the  perfection  of 
this  delicious  fruit  in  the  open  air.*  In  all  the  Southern 
and  Middle  States  the  peach-tree  flourishes  in  the  open 
air,  and  planted  in  orchards,  attains  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  in  height.  The  position  where  the  peach 
is  found  perhaps  in  the  greatest  perfection  is  about  the 
latitude  of  Baltimore  and  Washington.  In  the  State  of 
Delaware,  south  of  Philadelphia,  thousands  of  acres 
are  covered  with  peach-trees  affording  the  greatest 
abundance  of  fruit  in  the  highest  perfection.  Baskets, 
holding  about  three  pecks,  are  commonly  sold  at 
tAventy-five  to  fifty  cents.  The  .varieties  of  this  fruit 
known  in  the  United  States  are  ^very  numerous,  and 
every  year  increasing. 

Propagation. — The  facility  with  which  this  is  effected 
in   the   United  States  may  be  judged  of  by  the  fact, 

*  The  management  required  for  obtaining  tlie  peach  at  ex- 
traordinary seasons  will  be  found  laid  down  in  the  description 
of  operations  connected  with  forcing. 

9* 


yo  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

that  vigorous  budded  trees  from  four  to  seven  feet  in 
height  can  be  obtained  at  the  nurseries  at  from  three 
dollars  to  five  dollars  per  hundred.  The  first  step  is 
to  plant  the  pits  or  stones  in  November,  in  some  rich, 
light,  or  sandy  soil,  covering  them  about  three  inches 
deep.  They  may  be  placed  in  rows  four  feet  apart,  and 
six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other.  Or,  the  pits  may 
be  deposited  during  the  autumn,  in  moist  sand  or  light 
mould,  and  there  left  to  form  sprouts,  which  are  taken 
from  the  stones  and  planted  in  rows.  After  the  first 
summer's  growth,  they  are  budded  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember. Early  the  succeeding  spring,  those  in  which 
the  operation  has  succeeded  have  the  old  wood  cut 
down  close  above  the  new  bud,  which  will  shoot  up  in 
the  course  of  the  season,  from  three  to  nine  feet  hi^^h, 
with  numerous  side-branches.  In  some  of  the  Western 
States,  we  are  informed,  it  is  common  to  plant  the  stones 
in  November,  and  bud  the  growth  the  following  June, 
head  down  in  July,  and  thus  secure  a  growth  of  four 
or  six  feet  within  one  year  from  the  planting  of  the 
stone.  When  budding  is  performed  on  the  plum  stock, 
they  will,  it  is  said,  live  for  half  a  century,  and  be  free 
from  the  attacks  of  the  woriii,  which  is  so  apt  to  destroy 
the  tree  by  its  excavations  into  the  bark  immediately 
below  the  crown  of  the  root.,  In  poor,  sandy  soils,  or 
gravelly  subsoils,  the  tree  is  very  short-lived,  seldom 
bearing  more  than  one  or  two  crops  before  becoming 
sickly,  and  dying  with  what  is  commonly  called  the 
yellows.  A  light  clay  loam  is  the  most  favorable  soil 
for  the  peach-tree,  arid  this  must  be  kept  rich,  or  other- 
wise the  trees  will  soon"  exhaust  the  fertility  of  the 
ground,  and  perish  from  the  yelloivs.  Although  a  clay 
subsoil,  retentive  of  moisture,   is  so   congenial  to  the 


THE  PEACn.  99 

peacli-tree,  a  little  excess  of  moisture  is  very  prejudi- 
cial. A  happy  medium,  neither  too  dry  nor  too  moist, 
is  the  great  desideratum. 

Planting  Out. — The  ground  intended  for  peach  or- 
chards should  be  ploughed  as  deeply  as  possible,  and 
made  fine  by  subsequent  harrowing.  If  well  manured 
the  previous  year,  all  the  better.  The  trees,  which 
should  be  one  year  old,  counting  from  the  budding,  are 
to  be  placed  not  nearer  than  twenty  feet  apart,  which 
makes  one  hundred  and  eight  to  the  acre^:  on  strong 
land,  where  they  would  attain  to  still  greater  size,  they 
should  be  at  least  twenty-four  feet  apart.  Cultivate  in 
corn  or  potatoes,  the  first  two  seasons,  after  which  the 
trees  wall  begin  to  bear,  and  generally  make  sufficient 
grow^th  to  require  all  the  ground  for  themselves.  This 
ground  should  be  ploughed  and  harrowed  every  season, 
and  the  trees  hoed  around,  to  break  up  all  sward. 

Pruning. — In  general,  very  little  pruning  is  done  to 
peach-trees  in  the  United  States,  which  is  strongly  con- 
trasted with  the  elaborate  treatment  they  receive  from 
European  fruit  culturists.  One  of  the  main  objects  in 
trimming  is  to  thin  out  the  branches,  so  as  to  throw 
them  open  and  allow  the  sun  to  penetrate  to,  every  part 
of  the  tree.  This  greatly  improves  the  fruit  in  flavor 
and  color,  and  thus  secures  its  better  sale.  Those  who 
have,  but  a  few  trees  to  manage  may  adopt  modes  of 
winter  and  summer  trimming,  which  will  prove  of  very 
great  advantage  to  the  fruit.  "The  young  wood  should 
be  kept  thin,  and  every  new  growth  shortened  by  fall 
or  winter  pruning.  In  this  way,  the  beauty,  vigor  and 
productiveness  of  th6  tree  may  be  greatly  improved. 

At  the  first  meeting  of  the  National  Convention  of 
Fruit-growers,  held  in  the  city  of  New  York,  October, 


100  FKTJIT  GARDEN. 

1848,  the  following  list  of  peaches  was  adopted  as  of 
the  first  quality  : — 

Gross  Mignunnc, 

George  IV.,  or  Early  York,  \f\ih  senxUed  leaves, 
Large  Early  York, 
Morris  White, 
Oldmixon  Freestone, 
Cooledge's  Favorite, 
Bergin's  Yellow, 
Crawford's  Late, 
And  for  particular  localities, 
lieath  Cling, 

To  this  list  the  same  body  added,  next  year,  the 

Belle  de  Vitry, 

Crawford's  Early  Malocaton, 

Early  Tillotson, 

Admirable, 

Late  Admirable, 

President, 

Red  Rareripe, 

Lemon  Cling, 

Madeleine  de-  Courson, 

Malta, 

Rareripe, 

Noblesse, 

Royal  George, 

Tippecanoe,  • 

Incomparable  Admirable. 

Enemies  of  the  Peach  Tree. — The  chief  of  these  in 
the  United  States  are,  first,  the  YellotvSy  to  which  we 
have  referred,  and  ascribed  to  some  uncongeniality  of 
soil  to  the  tree,  as  well  as  to  exhaustion,  where  there 
is  hot  sufiicient  fertility ;  and,  secondly,  the  peach-worm 
which  excavates  the  bark,  so  as  often  to  girdle  the  tree 
immediately  below  the  crown  of  the  root.  Its  presence 
may  always  be  known  by  a  mass  of  gum,  which  exudes 


THE  PEACH.  Wl 

from  the  wounds,  and  a  portion  of  which  pushes  itself 
a  little  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  worm, 
which  is  of  a  yellowish-white  color,  grows  to  the  size  of 
an  inch  in  length,  is  very  voracious,  and  the  product  of 
a  four-winged  long-shaped  fly,  with  dark  steel-blue 
wings,  and  yellow  bands  about  the  body.  It  is  a  species 
of  ^geria,  called  by  Say,  who  has  described  it,  exigiosa, 
or  the  destructive,  and  its  eggs  are  deposited  during  the 
summer  upon  the  outer  surface  of  the  tree  near  the 
root.  As  soon  as  these  hatch,  the  minute  maggot-like 
larva  penetrate  the  bark,  and  begin  their  work  of  de- 
struction, which  increases  with  their  size.  They  live  in 
this  way  about  a  year,  when  they  cut  out  and  enter 
their  chrysalis  state,  between  the  tree  and  the  earth, 
covered  with  the  gum  which  bulges  out  from  the  base 
of  the  tree.  After  lying  here  a  little  while,  they  come 
forth  in  the  new  form  of  winged  insects,  and  are  soon 
busy  in  depositing  a  new  crop  of  eggs  for  the  production 
of  more  extensive  destruction.  A  particular  description 
of  this  insect  and  its  habits  may  be  found  in  the  Farm- 
ers' and  Planters'  Encyclopc^dia,  under  the  head 
"Peach."  Putting  a  quart  or  more  of  unleached  ashes 
around  the  crown  of  the  root  in  the  month  of  April  is 
recommended  as  a  good  destroyer  of  the  peach  worm. 
A  mixture  of  common  salt  and  saltpetre,  one-eighth  of 
the  latter  to  seven-eighths  of  the  former,  has  also  been 
successfully  applied  in  a  similar  manner.  Freshly 
slaked  lime,  half  a  peck  heaped  up  around  the  crown 
of  the  root  of  each  tree,  is  also  recommended,  the  lime 
to  be  spread  oUt  over  the  ground  the  succeeding  year. 
All  these  plans  are  doubtless  advantageous,  not  only 
from  their  often  destroying  the  worm,  but  by  their  con- 
tributing fertilizing  qualities  to  the  soil. 


102  FRUIT  OARDEX. 


Nectarines. 


FaircTiild'^  Early. — A  beautiful  little  freestone ; 
chiefly,  however,  cultivated  for  its  earliness.  It  ripens 
about  the  middle  of  August. 

Elruge;  L.  Hort.  Cat.  21.  Lind,  p.  287  (not  of 
Miller). — It  is  an  excellent  fruit,  of  a  moderate  size  ; 
flesh-white,  almost  to  the  stone,  which  is  free.  The 
tree  forces  well,  and  is  a  good  bearer.  Fruit  ripens 
about  the  beginning  of  September. 

Sunt' 8  Taivinj. — Size  moderate;  skin  pale  orange 
next  the  wall,  russet-red  towards  the  sun  ;  flesh  deep 
orange,  juicy  and  well-flavored;  a  freestone.  A  very 
distinct  sort,  worthy  of  cultivation  for  its  earliness. 

Early  Neiuiiigton. — A  fine  large  clingstone  ;  pale 
green  on  the  shaded  side,  bright  red  next  the  sun ; 
juice  saccharine  and  well  flavored.     Ripens  in  August. 

Red  Roman. — An  excellent  old  clingstone,  now  sel- 
dom to  be  met  with  genuine,  but  worthy  of  re-introduc- 
tion. 

A  few  other  first-rate  nectarines  maybe  enumerated. 
— Freestones^  Brinion,  Downton,  Murrey  {i.  e.,  murrey- 
colored),  Pitmaston  Orange,  Violette  grosse,  Violette 
hative,  Due  de  Telle  ;  Clingstones,  Imperaticc,  New- 
ington  Tawny.  A  very  good  nectarine  was  raised  by. 
the  late  Mr.  Henderson  at  Wpodhall  in  Scotland.  It 
approaches  the  Elruge.  The  fruit  is  early,  and  of  ex- 
cellent flavor,  and  the  tree  bears  plentifully.  It  has 
been  named  the  Woodhall  nectarine. 

The  nectarine  is  a  scarce  fruit  in  the  United  States, 
where,  however,  it  would  produce  abundantly  in  the  open 
air,  wherever  the  peach  tree  flourishes,  were  it  not  that 
the  smoothness  of  its  skin,  invites  the  curculio  to  make  it 


PEACH  AND  NECTARINE.  10^ 

the  depository  of  its  eggs,  leading  to  the  ahuost  universal 
destruction  of  the  fruit,  unless  protected  by  some  means 
persevered  in ;  in  this  respect  it  seems  to  fail,  even  worse 
than  the  plum.  The  beauty,  fragrance,  and  rarity  of 
nectarines  make  them  more  highly  prized  than  peaches  ; 
but  in  flavor,  they  are  perhaps  inferior  to  many  of  the 
best  kind  of  peaches  to  be  met  with  every  summer  in  the 
Philadelphia  market.  As  w'e  find  plum-trees  escape  the 
attacks  of  the  curculio,  when  planted  in  yards  where 
the  chickens  and  pigs  range,  the  same  good  results  might 
be  expected  from  placing  nectarine-trees  in  similar  situ- 
ations. Nectarine-trees  are  preferred,  when  grafted  or 
budded  on  plum  stocks.  Their  management  and  culture 
are  similar  to  that  of  the  peach. 

The  Red  Homan^  though  spoken  of  as  one  of  the 
oldest  and  best  varieties  cultivated  in  England,  has 
not,  with  several  other  varieties^  named,  been  as  yet 
particularly  described.  The  fruit  is  large  and  of  a  yel- 
lowish-green color,  with  a  dull  red  cheek,  sprinkled  with 
brown.     It  is  a  clingstone. 

The  Doiunton^  a  much  celebrated  variety  of  necta- 
rine, is  a  freestone  of  large  size  and  a  greenish-white 
color,  dark-red  cheek,  and  flesh  rich,  melting  and  juicy. 

The  Pitlnaston  Orange  has  fruit  of  medium  size, 
bright  golden  color  and  red  cheek.  The  flesh  is  a  deep 
yellow,  and  of  fine  sweet  rich  flavor.     It  is  a  freestone. 

Neiv  White  is  a  freestone  of  medium  size,  and  creamy- 
white  color,  with  flesh  rather  juicy  and  well  flavored. 

Leiviss  Seedling. — This  American  variety  was  pro- 
duced by  Mr.  Lewis,  of  Boston.  It  is  a  freestone,  of 
large  size  and  heart-shaped,  sweet  and  pleasant  flavor. 
The  color  is  a  bright  yellow,  mottled  with  red. 

Perkins    Seedling, — This  is  a  large    and  beautiful 


104  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

nectarine,  raised  by  S.  G.  Perkins,  of  Boston,  from  the 
Lewis's  Seedling.  Its  shape  is  round,  color  bright- 
yellow,  with  dark  crimson  on  one  side.  The  flesh  is 
tender^  juicy  and  high  flavored. 

The  Varmash  is  rather  of  small  size  and  roundish 
form,  tapering  towards  the  eye.  Color,  a  greenish  hue 
on  one  side,  with  deep  red  next  the  sun.  Flesh  white, 
rich,  melting.     An  early  ripener.    - 

Neiv  White  or  Flanders  ;  also  Emerson'' s  JVeiv  White, 
and  NeaVs  New  White. — From  the  number  of  claimants 
to  the  name,  we  have  a  right  to  expect  this  to  be  a  choice 
fruit.  It  is  a  freestone  of  middle  size,  roundish  shape, 
and  in  color  very  pale,  slightly  tinged  with  red  next  the 
sun.  The  flesh  is  tender  and  juicy,  with  a  fine  vinous 
flavor.     It  ripens  early. 

At  the  meeting  of  the  National  Convention  of  Fruit- 
growers in  the  city  of  New  York,  in  1849,  the  Elruge 
and  Early  violet  varieties  of  the  nectarine  were  adopted 
without  objection,  as  of  the  first  quality  for  this  country. 
Some  of  the  best  authorities  present,  among  ^hom  were 
Messrs.  Downing,  Buist  and  Hancock,  concurred  in  pro- 
nouncing the  Downton  the  very  best  of  nectarines. 

The  nectarine  grows  best  in  the  Middle  States,  in 
sheltered  situations,  and  may  be  advantageously  trained 
to  fences  and  walls. 

Choice  Peaches  and  Nectarines  for  raising  under 
glass. — For  a  small  glazed  house,  and  for  the  wall  of  a 
middle-sized  garden,  the  following  selection  of  peaches 
and  nectarines  is  recommended.  For  the  peach-house — 
Royal  George,  Barrington,  Noblesse,  Bellegarde,  Grosse 
Mignonne,  Early  Purple  peaches ;  Violette  hative, 
Hunt's  Tawny,  Elruge,  and  Roman  nectarines.  For 
the  wall — Royal   George,  Late    Admirable,  Noblesse, 


PEACH  AND  NECTARINE.  105 

Malta,  Neil's  Early  Purple,  Early  Ann,  Grosse  Mig- 
nonne,  Barrington,  Bellegarde,  George  the  Fourth,  and 
Spring  Grove  peaches  ;  'Nectarines^  Early  Newington, 
Hunt's  Tawny,  Yio!ette=  h^tiv'e,  Fairchild's  Early,  Ro- 
man, and  Pitmaston  Orange. 

Production  of  New  Varieties. — For  information  re- 
specting, the  best  modes  of  raising  new  varieties  of 
peaches  tind  nectarines,  the  reader  may  be  referred  to 
Mr.  Knight's  papers  in  the  first  volume  of  the  Trans- 
actions of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London.  That 
ardent  horticulturist  entertained  the  hope  that,  by  re- 
peated sowings,  the  peach  might  acquire  so  robust  a 
habit  as  to  be  capable  of  succeeding  as  a  standard  in 
favorable  situations  in  England  and  Ireland.  But  with 
this  desirable  object  in  view,  we  would  rather  see  the 
number  of  the  kinds  diminished  than  increased;  and  it 
would  be  well  for  the  country  were  all  the  indifferent 
sorts  banished  from  the  nursery  catalogues. 

To  perpetuate  and  multiply  valuable  varieties, 
peaches  and, nectarines  are  budded  upon  plum  or  al- 
mond stocks.  For  dry  situations,  almond  stocks  are 
preferable  ;  and  for  damp  or  clayey  loams,  it  is  better 
to  use  plums.  An  almond  budded  on  a  plum  stock 
may  be  rebudded  with  a  tender  peach,  greatly  to  the 
advantage  of  the  latter.  The  peach  border  should  be 
composed  of  a  light  mellow  loam,  such  as  is  suitable 
for  the  vine  and  the  fig,  put  in  as  rough  as  possible,  or 
not  broken  small  and  fine.  It  should  be  well  drained, 
or  rendered  quite  free  from  all  stagnant  water,  or  la- 
tent dampness.  It  need  not  be  of  great  depth,  perhaps 
eighteen  inches  ;  for  the  peach-tree  thrives  best,  and  is 
most  productive,  when  the  roots  are  near  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  We  believe  that,  in  many  instances,  all 
10 


106  FRUIT  GAKDExV. 

that  is  required  to  remedy  sickly  and  unfruitful  trees- 
is  to  bring  up  their  roots  within  five  or  six  inches  of 
the  surface.     In  England,  nothing  is  a  greater  obstacle 
to  success  in  peach  culture  than  trenching  the  borders, 
and  cropping  them  heavily  with  culinary  vegetables. 

The  fruit  of  the  peach  is  produced  on  the  twiggy 
shoots  of  the  preceding  year.  If  these  be  too  luxuriant, 
they  yield  nothing  but  leaves ;  and  if  too  weak,  they 
are  incapable  of  maturing  the  fruit.  To  furnish  these, 
then,  in  sufficient  abundance,  and  of  requisite  strength, 
is  the  great  object  of  peach-training  and  .pruning.  All 
twiggy  trees  naturally  fall  into  the  fan  form  ;  and,  ac- 
cordingly, this  has  generally  been  adopted  in  the  cul- 
ture of  peaches. 

We  shall  first,  therefore,  notice  the  old  English  me- 
thod, and  then  briefly  the  French,  and  other  new  modes 
of  training. 

The  old  fan  form  is  very  nearly  that  already  given 
(supra)  as  a  specimen  of  fan-training  for  twiggy  trees. 
The  young  tree  is  often  procured  when  it  has  been 
trained  for  two  or  three  years  in  the  nursery,  but  it  is 
generally  better  to  commence  with  a  maiden  plant,  that 
is,  in  the  first  year  after  it  has  been  budded.  It  is 
then  headed  down  to  five  or  six  buds,  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing summer  two  to  four  shoots,  according  to  the 
vigor  of  the  plant,  are  trained  in;  the  laterals  also  be- 
ing thinned  out,  and  properly  nailed  to  the  walls. 
Suppose  there  be  four  branches ;  in  the  subsequent 
winter  the  two  central  ones  are  shortened  back  to  pro- 
duce others,  and  the  inferior  ones  are  laid  in  nearly  at 
full  length.  In  the  following  season  additional  shoots 
are  sent  forth ;  and  the  process  is  repeated  till  eight  or 
ten  principal  limbs  or  mother  branches  be  obtained. 


PEACH  AND  NECTARINE.  107 

forming,  as  it  were,  the  framework  of  the  future  tree. 
These  mother  branches  are  occasionally  raised  or  de- 
pressed, so  as  to  maintain  their  equilibrium,  and  are  as 
much  encouraged  to  grow  outwards  as  is  consistent 
with  the  regular  filling  up  of  the  tree.  The  laterals 
are  carefully  thinned  out  (by  pinching  off  with  the 
fingers)  in  summer ;  and  the  remainder  are  nailed  in,  to 
afi^ord  subordinate  members  and  bearing  wood.  When 
the  centre  of  the  tree  has  been  filled  up,  all  the  training 
necessary  is  merely  to  prevent  the  inferior  members 
from  acquiring  an  undue  ascendency  over  the  mother 
branches.  It  is  highly  advantageous  to  have  abun- 
dant space,  and  to  draw  the  tree  outwards,  so  that  it 
be  thin,  but  nowhere  destitute  of  young  shoots. 

Meanwhile  the  pruning  for  fruit  has  been  going  on. 
This  consists  in  shortening  down  the  laterals  which  had 
been  nailed  in  at  the  disbudding,  or  summer  pruning. 
Their  length  will  depend  on  their  individual  vigor,  and 
the  luxuriance  of  the  tree.  The  buds,  which  are  gene- 
rally double,  or  rather  two  together,  with  a  fruit  bud 
between  them,  seldom  occur  quite  close  to  the  insertion 
of  the  shoot.  Perhaps  two  or  three  pairs  are  left  with 
a  wood  bud  at  the  point  to  afford  a  growing  shoot,  in 
order  to  act  a«  its  lungs,  for  it  is  necessary  that  there 
should  be  leaves  above  the  fruit.  The  extent  of  thin- 
ning of  the  fruit  must  depend  on  the  vigor  of  the  tree ; 
a  pair  of,  fruit  to  each  square  foot  of  wall  being  an  ave- 
rage allowance.  When  the  fruit  begins  to  swell,  the 
point  of  this  leading  shoot  is  pinched  oiT,  that  it  may 
not  drain  away  the  sap.  Any  young  shoot  from  the 
wood-eyes  at  the  base  of  the  bearing  branch  is  carefully 
preserved,  and  in  the  following  winter  it  takes  the  place 
of  the  branch  whieh  has  borne  fruit,  and  is  cut  out.     If 


108 


FRUIT  UARDEN. 


there  be  no  young  shoot  below,  and  the  bearing  branch 
be  short,  the  shoots  at  the  point  of  the  latter  are  pruned 
for  fruit ;  but  this  must  be  done  cautiously  ;  and  if  the 
bearing  branch  be  long,  it  is  better  to  cut  it  back  for 
young  wood.  It  is  the  neglect  of  this  which  constitutes 
the  principal  error  of  the  English  fan  system  as  it  is 
usually  practiced.  Several  times  during  summer  the 
trees  are  regularly  examined  ;  the  young  shoots  are  re- 
spectively topped  and  thinned  out :  those  that  remain 
are  nailed  to  the  wall,  or  braced  in  with  pieces  of  peeled 
willow,  and  the  whole  trees  are  occasionally  washed 
with  the  force-pump. 

The  3Iontrueil  form  is   described  at  length  in  the 

Fi-   12. 


:::2^ 


Horticultural  Tour,  p.  249,  or  in  the  Qah  Hort.  Mem., 
voh  iv.  p.  145.  The  principal  feature  constitutes  the 
great  principle  of  all  French  training,  the  suppression 
of  the  direct  channel  of  the  sap.  Four,  more  commonly 
two,  mere  branches  are  so  laid  to  the  wall  that  the  cen- 
tral angle  contains  about  90°.  The  other  branches  are 
all  treated  as  subordinate  members. 

The  form  a  la  Dumoutier  (so  called  from  its  inventor 
and  described  at  great  length  by  Lelieur),  is  merely  a 
refinement  on  the  Montrueil  method.  It  will  be  suffi- 
cient to  mention  to  the  experienced  trainer  (and  none 


PE.1CH  AND  NECTARINE. 


109 


other  can  be  expected  to  execute  this  form),  that  the 
formation  of  the  tree  commences  with  the  inferior  limbs, 


Fig.  13. 


and  proceeds  towards  the  centre,  the  branches  being 
lowered  from  time  to  time,  as  the  tree  acquires  strength. 
What  is  most  worthy  of  notice  in  this  method  is  the 
management  of  the  subordinates  in  the  pruning  for  fruit. 
When  a  shoot  promises  blossom,  it  is  generally  at  some 
distance  from  the  point  of  insertion  into  the  old  wood, 
and  the  intermediate  space  is  covered  with  wood-buds. 
All  the  latter,  therefore,  which  are  between  the  old  wood 

Fig.  14. 


a  and  the  blossom  ^,  in  the  outer  figure,  except  tlie  low- 
est 5,  are  carefully  removed  by  ehourgeonnement  or  dis- 
This  never  fails  to  produce  a  shoot,  i,  in  the 


budding. 


110  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

inner  figure,  the  growth  of  which  is  favored  by  destroy- 
ing the  useless  spray  above  the  blossoms,  and  pinching 
off  the  points  of  those  which  are  necessary  to  perfect  the 
fruit.  A  replacing  shoot  is  thus  obtained,  to  which  the 
whole  is  invariably  shortened  at  the  end  of  the  year. 
The  branch  thus  treated  is  called  the  hranche  de  reserve. 
The  form  a  la  Sieule  is  another  modification  of  the 
Montrueil  training,  for  an  account  of  which  we  must 
again  refer  to  the  Horticultural   Tour,      This   figure 


will  give  an  idea  of  the  general  arrangement  of  the  tree. 
The  two  mother  branches  are  laid  in  very  obliquely, 
and  are  never  shortened.  On  the  subordinate  branches 
three  buds  only  are  left  at  the  winter  pruning,  one  ter- 
minal, and  two  at  a  considerable  distance  from  each 
other  on  the  sides  of  the  shoot.  This  method,  probably, 
is  not  well  adapted  to  our  climate. 

Mr.  Seymour''^  form,  as  described  in  vols.  i.  and  ii. 
of  the  G-ardeners  Magazine,  approaches  more  nearly 
to  the  French  methods  than  any  pther  practiced  in  this 
country.  It  will  be  seen,  however,  from  the  annexed 
figure,  that  he  does  not  suppress  the  direct  channel  of 
the  sap.  This  circumstance,  although  ,  considerable 
stress  seems  to  be  laid  upon  it,  is  not  -essential  to  the 
plan,  nor  is,  perhaps,  the  best  part  of  it.  The  princi- 
pal novelty  is,  that  the  bearing  shoots  are  all  on  the 
upper   sides  of  the   mother  branches,  and   that  those 


PEACH  AND  NECTARINE. 


Ill 


bearing  shoots  are  wholly  reproduced  oncp  a  year.    The 
one  side  of  this  figure  represents  the  tree  after  the  win- 


Fis.   16. 


ter  pruning,  the  other  side  before  it  has  undergone  that 
operation.  It  will  be  observed  that  on  this  last  side 
there  are  pairs  of  shoots  on  the  upper  parts  of  the 
mother  branches.  The  lower  shoot,  that,  namely,  which 
has  borne  fruit,  is  cut  out,  and  the  other  is  brought 
down  into  it^  place.  This  replacing  shoot  is  shortened 
to  about  eight  or  nine  inches,  care  being  taken  to  cut 
at  a  woad-bud  ;  and  at  the  time  of  disbudding,  the  best 
situate  buds,  and  those  nearest  the  base,  are  left  for  the 
future  year's  bearing.  To  this  plan  it  is  objected,  by  a 
writer  in  the  Horticultural  Register,  that  the  annual 
excision  of  the  bearing  shoots  produces  a  series  of  rugged 
and  unsightly  protuberances  at  their  base,  and  along 
the  upper  surfaces  of  the  principal  members  ;  an  objec- 
which  also  militates  against  Dumoutier's  form.  Mr. 
Loudon,  on  the  other  hand,  declares  that  Mr.  Seymour's 
mode  is  the  most  perfect  in  theory  that  has  been  de- 
scribed. For  ourselves,,  we  are  inclined  to  prefer  the 
old  fan-form,  when  well  executed,  as  approaching  nearest 
to  the  natural  habit  of  the  tree,  and  as  best  adapted  to 
our  uncertain   climate.     As  a  general   observation,  it 


112  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

maybe  said  that,  in  the  training  of  peach-trees,  "what- 
ever is  best  administered  is  best ;"  and  there  is  no  doubt 
that  many  ingenious  gardeners  have  only  partial  suc- 
cess, because,  from  the  multiplicity  of  their  engage- 
ments, their  trees  can  receive  only  partial  attention. 

For  cold  and  late  situations,  Mr.  Knight  recommend- 
ed the  encouraging  of  spurs  on  the  young  wood ;  such 
spurs,  when  close  to  the  wall,  being  found  to  generate 
the  best  organized  and  most  vigorous  blossoms,  and  thus 
to  ensure  a  crop  of  fruit.  They  may  be  produced  by 
taking  care  during  the  summer-pruning,  or  disbudding, 
to  preserve  a  number  of  the  little  shoots  emitted  by  the 
yearly  wood,  only  pinching  off  the  minute  succulent 
points.  On  the  spurs  thus  procured,  numerous  blos- 
som-buds form  early  in  the  following  season.  This 
mode  of  spurring  is  much  pra.cticed  in  Scotland. 

Peach-trees,  particularly  in  the  north  of  England, 
and  also  in  Scotland,  require  protection  from  atmosphe- 
rical influences,  especially  at  the  period  of  blossoming. 
As  already  noticed,  branches  of  spruce  or  silver  fir,  or 
other  spray,  are  sometimes  woven  into  frames,  which 
are  fixed  in  front  of  the  trees,  and  removed  during  the 
day  in  fine  weather  {Q-al.  Hort.  Mem.,  i.,  276).  Canvas 
or  bunting  screens  are  equally  effectual,  and  perhaps 
more  easily  movable.  Straw-ropes,  straw-nets,  and  a 
variety  of  other  expedients,  have  been  proposed,  and 
may  be  used  according  to  circumstances.  If  the  screens 
be  applied  early  in  the  season,  great  benefit  may  be 
derived  from  retarding  the  blossom  till  the  frosty 
nights  of  spring  be  past.  If  the  night  frosts  have  been 
severe,  a  copious  sprinkling  of  water  over  the  whole 
tree,  before  the  influence  of  the  -morning  sun  be  felt, 
has  been  found  to  be  very  usefuV  in  gradually  raising 


NECTARINE  AND  ALMOND.  118 

the  temperature  of  the  foliage  and  blossoms,  and  thus 
preventing  injury  from  the  sudden  transition.  To 
trees  trained  against  hot-walls,  if  fire  be  used  in  spring, 
screens  are  indispensable ;  but  perhaps  hot-walls  are 
most  beneficially  employed  in  ripening  off  the  fruit  of 
the  late  sorts  of  peaches  in  autumn ;  and,  what  is 
equally  important,  ripening  the  young  wood  of  such 
sorts. 

When  peach  and  nectarine-trees  are  liable  to  mildew 
and  to  aphides,  it  is  found  very  useful  to  coat,  with  a 
painter's  coarse  brush,  all  the  branches  and  twigs  with 
a  composition  of  black  soap  and  flowers  of  sulphur, 
mixed  with  water,  and  boiled  to  the  consistence  of  paint. 
This  should  be  done  during  winter,  and  before  the 
trees  are  nailed  to  the  wall. 

The  late  pruning  of  the  peach  and  nectarine  should 
take  place  early  in  the  winter,  and  not  be  delayed  till 
the  spring,  as  is  sometimes  the  case. 

The  Almond-Tree  [Amygdalus  communis),  a  native 
of  China,  may  be  noticed  here  rather  on  account  of  its 
afiinity  to  the  peach  and  apricot,  than  because  of  its 
importance  as  a  fruit-tree  in  Britain.  Every  good 
garden  should  contain  a  tree  or  two  trained  against  a 
west  or  east  w^all,  and  also  a  few  standards  ;  for  in  very 
fine  seasons  the  latter  will  yield  crops,  and  they  are 
always  ornamental  in  spring  from  the  beauty  of  their 
blossoms.  The  sorts  most  worthy  of  notice  are  the 
Tender-shelled  Sweet  Almond,  or  Jordan,  and  the  Com- 
mon Almond,  or  Bitter. 

The  almond  is  generally  budded  on  seedlings  of  its  own 
kind ;  but  for  heavy  soils  plum-stocks  are  preferable. 


114  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

The  training  and  pruning  of  almond-trees  on  walls   are 
much  the  same  as  in  the  peach  or  the  apricot.* 

The  Apricot  {Primus  Armeniaca)  is  a  native  of  the 
Caucasus  and  China;  it  was  cultivated  by  the  Romans, 
and  was  introduced  into  England  from  Italy  in  the  reign 
of  Henry  VIII.  It  has  always,  and  deservedly,  been 
a  favorite.     The  principal  varieties  are  : 

Red  Masculine. — Flowers  small;  fruit  small,  round- 
ish, yellow  and  red;  flesh  sweet, and  juicy;  stone  im- 
pervious ;  kernel  bitter.  This  is  a  very  early  sort,  but 
the  tree  is  rather  tender,  and  requires  a  good  aspect. 

Breda. — Flowers  large ;  fruit  roundish,  sometimes 
almost  four-cornered,  orange-colored ;  juice  rich,  stone 
small,  impervious ;  kernel  sweet.  The  true  Breda  is 
an  apricot  of  first-rate  excellence,  and  in  the  south  of 
England  the  tree  bears  well  as  a  standard. 

Roman. — Flowers  large ;  fruit  oblong,  compressed, 
pale  yellow ;  flesh  soft ;  stone  impervious  ;  kernel  very 
bitter.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer,  but  the  fruit  is  fit 
only  for  preserving.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Brus- 
sels— a  name  also  occasionally  given  to  the  preceding. 

Moorpark. — Flowers  large ;  fruit  roundish,  compress- 
ed, orange  and  red  ;  flesh  parting  from  the  stone,  juicy 
and  rich;  stone  pervious;  kernel  bitter.  This  is  gene- 
rally considened  the  best  apricot  in  this  country.  There 
are  several  sub-varieties  known  under  different  names.; 

■*  the,  Hard-shelled  Ahiionds  will  succeed  in  the  open  air  in 
any  of  the  Middle  States,  and  the  soft-shelled  have  been  matured 
in  Camden,  Delaware.  Very  good  hard-shell  almonds  are  pro- 
duced in  A^irginia.  The  culture  is  similar  to  that  of  the  peach 
and  apricot,  and  ought  to  be  more  generally  attended  to  in  the 
Southern  and  some  of  the  Middle  States. 


APRICOT.  115 

and  among" these  Shipley's  is  the  best.     It  scarcely  dif- 
fers from  the  Apricot  Peclie  of  the  French. 

ITemsJcirJce. — Like  a  small  moorpark,  but  with  a  more 
tender  and  juicy  pulp,  and  with  the  rich  flavor  of  a 
green-gage  plum ;  kernel  small,  sweetish.  A  desirable 
early  fruit,  ripening  on  an  east  wall  in  the  end  of  July, 
or  beginning  of  August. 

Turkey. — Flowers  large ;  fruit  middle-sized,  spheri- 
cal, deep  yellow  ;  flesh  juicy  and  rich,  parting  from  the 
stone,  which  Is  impervious ;  kernel  sweet.  This  is  an 
excellent  late  variety. 

Besides  these,  w'e  may  mention  the  Large  Early,  the 
White  Masculine,  Musch-musch,  and  Royal.  The  last 
is  a  French  variety  of  recent  origin;  it  is  excellent,  and 
ripens  earlier  than  the  moorpark. 

Apricots  are  propagated  by  budding  on  muscle  or 
common  plum-stocks..  Mr.  Knight  recommends  the 
Avilding  apricot  as  a  stock  for  the  Moorpark  variety. 
Some  gardeners  have  adopted  the  horizontal  form  of 
training,  but  the  most  usual,  and  certainly  the  best,  is 
the  common  fan  arrangeme'nt ;  for  the  taller  the  tree 
the  greater  the  produce  of  fruit.  The  fruit  is  produced 
on  shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  and  on  small  close 
spurs  formed  on  the  two-year-old  wood.  The  apricot 
is  a  tree  of  much  stronger  growth  than  the  peach,  and 
therefore  requires  more  room ;  this  and  the  peculiarity 
of  the  spurs  being  kept  in  mind,  the  observations  made 
on  the  training  and  pruning  of  the  peach  maybe  readily 
applied  to  this  tree.  It  requires  a  summer  and  winter 
pruning.  The  former  shouM  begin  early  in  June,  at 
wdiich  period  all  irregular  fore-right  and  useless  shoots 
are  to  be  pinched  off";  and,  shortly  afterwards,  those 
which  remain  are  to  be  fastened  to  the  wall,  to  become 


116  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

bearers.  At  the  winter  pruning,  all  worn-out  brandies, 
and  such  as  are  not  duly  furnished  with  spurs  and  fruit- 
buds,  are  removed.  The  young  bearers  are  moderately 
pruned  at  the  points,  care,  however,  being  taken  to  leave 
a  terminal  shoot  or  leader  to  each  branch.  The  most 
common  error  in  the  pruning  of  apricots  is  laying  In 
the  bearing  shoots  too  thickly. 

The  blossom  comes  early  in  spring,  but  is  more  hardy 
than  that  of  the  peach ;  the  same  means  of  protection, 
when  n-ecessary,  may  be  employed.  The  fruit  often 
sets  too  numerously ;  and  in  this  case  it  is  thinned  out 
in  June  and  in  the  beginning  of  July,  the  later  thin- 
nings being  used  for  tarts,  for  which  purpose  they  are 
in  much  request.  In  the  south  of  England,  apricots 
are  sometimes  trained  against  espalier  rails,  and  occa- 
sionally planted  as  dwarf  standards  ;  and  it  is  said  that 
in  good  seasons  the  fruit  from  such  trees  is  more  highly 
flavored  than  that  from  walls.  In  general,  however, 
the  protection  of  a  wall  is  required.  An  east  or  West 
aspect  is  preferred  in  England,  the  full  south  being  apt 
to  induce  mealiness  of  pulp.  In  Scotland,  the  late  va- 
rieties require  the  best  aspect  that  can  be  afforded. 

This  fruit  ripens  several  weeks  earlier  than  the 
peach  to  which  it  is  allied.  The  National  Convention 
of  Fruit-growers,  in  New  York,  1849,  adopted  unani- 
mously as  of  the  first  quality  known  in  the  United 
States,  the  following  varieties,  viz :  The  Large  Early, 
Breda,  and  Moorpark.  The  kind  known  as  the  peach 
apricot  was  pronounced  identical  with  the  Moorpark. 

The  tendency  of  .this  tree  to  put  out  its  flowers  very 
early  in  the  season,  and  much  before  the  Almond  and 
Peach,  subjects  its  fruit    to  great  risk  from  nipping 


PLUMS.  117 

spring  frosts.     This  difficulty  increases  in  proceeding 
from  the  North  to  the  South. 

The  Plum-Tree  {Primus  domestica)  is  considered  by 
Sir  J.  E.  Smith  as  a  native  of  England.  Many  of  the 
best  cultivated'varieties,  however,  have  been  introduced 
from  France.  The  Hort.  Soe.  Catalogue  enumerates 
274  sorts,  though  probably  all  of  these  are  not  well 
ascertained.  We  shall  first  notice  a  few  of  the  best 
dessert  plums,  and  then  give  a  list  of  select  kitchen 
sorts. 

The  G-reen-Gage  is  the  Reine  Claude  of  the  French. 
Being  a  great  favorite  at  Paris  (as  it  is  everywhere 
else)  during  the  ferment  of  the  first  Revolution,  wbien 
all  allusions  to  royalty  were  proscribed,  it  retained  its 
popularity  under  the  title  of  Prune  Citoyenne.  It  was 
introduced  into  England  by  the  G-age  family,  and  the 
foreign  name  having  been  lost,  it  obtained  its  present 
appellation.  It  is  a  fruit  of  first-rate  excellence,  the 
flavor  being  exquisite.  The  tree  deserves  a  place 
against  an  east  or  west  wall,  where  the  fruit  acquires  a 
larger  size,  without  materially  falling  off  in  richness  of 
flavor.  Treated  as  a  wall  tree,  it  seldom  bears  well  till 
it  be  old;  and  it  is  very  impatient  of -exact  training,  as 
indeed  most  plums  are.  In  warm  situations  it  may  be 
properly  grown  on  an  espalier-rail,  or  as  a  dwarf  stand- 
ard. 

The  Braf  d'  Or  is  a  small  yellow  plum  of  high  flavor, 
ripening  in  the  beginning  of  September.  On  a  light 
soil  the  tree  is  a  tolerable  bearer ;  but  on  a  heavy  soil 
it  seldom  succeeds.  The  fruit  precedes  the  green-gage 
in  ripening,  and  resembles  it  in  quality. 

Goes  Golden  Drop  is  a  fine  large  oval  plum  ;  excel- 
11 


118  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

lent  either  for  the  table  or  for  preserving.  It  keep^ 
well,  and  Mr.  Lindlej  informs  us  that  he  has  eaten  it 
exceedingly  good  twelve  months  after  it  had  been  ga- 
thered. It  requires  the  best  aspect  of  a  wall,  and  will 
scarcely  answer  in  a  bleak  climate. 

For  standards,  Gishorne  s  Early  Plum  is  one  of  the 
best  and  most  productive  that  can  be  recommended, 
particularly  for  the  northern  portion  of  Britain. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  Ooul  Orleans,  a  plum 
raised  by  that  distinguished  horticulturist.  Sir  George 
Stuart  Mackenzie,  of  Coul. 

The  Precoce  de  Tours  is  an  early  sort ;  of  a  dark 
blue  color,  with  a  violet  bloom  ;  pulp  yellow,  and  of  a 
very  pleasant  flavor.     The  tree  succeeds  as  a  standard. 

The  Blue  Imperatrice  is  a  fine  late  plum  ;  the  tree  is 
a  good  bearer,  but  requires  an  east  or  west  wall. 

Reine  Qlaude  Violette,  L.  Sort.  Cat.,  232.  Purple- 
Gage,  Lind.j  p.  555. — A  very  high-flavored  variety,  re- 
sembling, color  excepted,  the  green-gage.  It  succeeds 
on  standards,  but  is  improved  by  a  wall.  The  tree  is 
a  good  bearer. 

Washington,  L.  Sort.  Cat.^  266 ;  Amer.  Orchard, 
p.  268. — Fruit  rather  -large,  roundish  oval,  pale  yellow 
on  the  shaded  side,  and  of  a  fine  glaucous  light  purple 
on  the  exposed  side  ;  of  excellent  quality,  little  inferior 
to  the  green-gage.  The  tree  is  vigorous,  and  bears  well 
against  a  wall,  the  fruit  ripening  about  the  middle  of 
August.  Being  an  early  plum,  it  will,  in  favorable 
situations,  succeed  as  a  standard.  It  is,  as  the  name 
imports,  of  American  origin.  It  ought  to  be  in  every 
collection. 

Coupers  Large  Red  is  a  plum  of  large  size,  oval ; 
suture  deeply  cleft  on  one  side;  skin  of  .a  bluish  glau- 


PLUMS.  119 

cous  purple  on  the  exposed  side,  on  the  other  side  dull 
red  ;  flesh  firm,  adhering  to  the  stone ;  ripening  in  the 
beginning  of  September  on  a  south  wall,  in  Scotland. 
Although  this  is  only  a  fruit  of  second  quality,  yet  the 
tree  well  merits  a  place  on  account  of  its  great  pro- 
ductiveness. 

The  following  may  also  be  accounted  first-rate  plums, 
and  deserving  a  place  against  the  w^all : — Coe's  Late 
Red,  Downton  Imperatrice,  Isleworth  Imperatrice, 
Royale  Hative  Kirke's  Plum,  Blue  Perdrigon,  White 
Perdrigon,  Ickworth  Imperatrice,  Early  Orleans,  White 
Magnum  Bonum,  Mirabelle,  and  the  Dunmore. 

The  Cheston,  Fotheringham,  Goliath,  Wilmot's 
Orleans,  La  Royale,  Sharpe's  Emperor  of  Morocco,  and 
some  of  the  Damsons,  though  generally  regarded  as 
only  second-rate  plums,  deserve  notice,  and  should  al- 
ways be  introduced  in  large  gardens,  at  least  as  stand- 
ards. The  Early  Yiolet  is  an  excellent  bearer,  and 
strongly  recommended  by  Lindley  to  be  planted  in  cot- 
tage gardens.  Lucoiub's  Nonsuch  plum  should  not  be 
omitted ;  for  when  well  ripened,  it  makes  an  approach 
to  the  green-gage  in  flavor. 

As  kitchen  and  preserving  plums  we  may  specify  the 
common  Damson,  Shropshire  Damson,  Imperial  Diadem, 
Isabella,  White  Magnum  Bonum,  Red  Magnum  Bonum 
or  Imperiale  ;  the  Caledonia  or  Nectarine  Plum,  a  large 
and  handsome  fruit ;  the  St.  Catherine,  Wine  Sour,  and 
Bullace. 

The  finer  dessert  plums  are  propagated  chiefly  by 
budding  on  Muscle  or  St.  Julian  stocks.  They  are 
sometimes  grafted,  but  gum  is  apt  to  break  out  at  the 
place  of  junction.  The  damson,  wine-sour,  and  other 
varieties,  planted  as  standards,  are  generally  increased 


120  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

by  suckers,  which  the  old  plants  afford  plentifully.  For 
placing  against  walls,  trees  which  have  been  trained  for 
two  years  in  the  nursery  are  to  be  preferred. 

Plum-trees  require  ample  space.  On  common  walls 
they  should  be  allowed  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet 
of  breadth  over  which  to  extend  themselves.  The  hori- 
zontal mode  of  training  is  adopted  by  many.  The  fan 
form  is  also  very  commonly  followed,  and  undoubtedly 
where  there  is  room  it  is  the  best.  The  shoots  ought 
to  be  laid  in  at  full  length.  The  fruit  is  produced  on 
small  spurs,  on  branches  at  least  two  years  old,  and  the 
same  spurs  continue  fruitful  for  several  years. 

Standard  plum-trees  require  only  to  have  a  portion 
of  their  wood  thinned  out  occasionally  while  they  are 
young.  The  hardy  kinds  grown  in  this  way  are  very 
productive,  and  in  some  places  in  the  north  of  England 
their  produce  forms  a  considerable  article  of  food  for 
several  weeks,  and  also  an  article  of  commerce,  parti- 
cularly the  wine-sour,  which  is  in  great  request  for 
preserves.  It  is  matter  of  regret  that  this  branch 
of  fruit-culture  has  not,  as  yet,  met  with  due  attention 
in  Scotland. 

The  crops  of  this  fruit  are  greatly  limited  in  the 
United  States  by  the  destruction  of  the  young  fruit 
effected  by  worms  hatched  from  eggs  deposited  in  what 
are  called  the  stings  of  the  Curculio.  This  insect 
has  been  described  by  Dr.  Harris,  the  celebrated  ento- 
mologist of  Massachusetts,  whose  account  of  it,  toge- 
ther with  the  best  modes  of  protection  from  its  destruc- 
tive attacks,  are  all  treated  of  at  much  length  in  the  Far- 
mer s  and  Planter^s  Encydoijedia,  under  the  heads  of 
Curculio  and  Flum-Tree  Weevil,  One  of  the  best  pre- 
ventives is  to  have  the  trees  paved  around,  or  planted 


CHERRIES.  121 

in  yards  and  places  where  fowls  and  pigs  commonly 
range. 

The  list  of  plums  adopted  as  of  the  first  quality,  at 
the  National  Convention  of  Fruit-growers,  at  the  meet- 
ing in  New  York  City,  October,  1849,  is  as  follows  :— 

Jefferson,  Green-Gage,  Washington,  Purple  Favorite, 
Bleeker's  Gage,  Coe's  Golden  Drop,  Frost  Gage  ;  and^ 
for  particular  localities,  the  Imperial  Gage.  To  this 
list  of  fruit  of  well-established  reputation,  the  same 
body  subsequently  added  as  giving  promise  of  being 
worthy  a  place  in  the  catalogue,  the  McLaughlin, 
River's  Favorite,  and  St.  Martin's  Quetsche. 

The  Cherry-Tree  [Primus  Cerasus)  is  said  to  have 
been  introduced  into  Italy  from  Pontus,  in  Asia,  by  the 
Roman  general,  Lucullus.  From  the  ^' London  cries" 
of  Lydgate,  it  appears  that  ''cherries  in  the  ryse,"  or 
in  twiggs,  were  hawked  in  London  at  the  beginning  of 
the  fifteenth  century.  Excellent  sorts  have  at  various 
times  been  introduced  from  the  Continent,  and,  of  late 
years,  several  first-rate  new  varieties  have  been  raised 
in  England.  Geans  included,  the  Horticultural  Socie- 
ty's Catalogue  enumerates  no  fewer  than  219  varie- 
ties ;  the  following  may  be  accounted  some  of  the  best. 

The  Early  Purple  Grriotte  nrny  be  first  mentioned, 
as  being  the  earliest  of  all  cherries,  sometimes  ripen- 
ing in  the  end  of  May,  and  generally  early  in  June. 
It  is  not  yet  generally  known  in  England,  but  de- 
serves cultivation,  the  fruit  being  large,  of  a  fine  purple 
color,  and  of  rich- flavor. 

KnighVs  Early  Black  is  a  large,  dark-colored  cherry, 
of  excellent  quality,  ripening  in  the  end  of  June. 
■   The  May  Duke  is  one  of  the  most  common,  and,  at 

11* 


122  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

the  same  time,  one  of  the  most  valuable  cherries.  ■  In 
fine  seasons,  and  on  a  good  aspect  of  wall,  it  begins  to 
color  in  May  ;  and  in  such  situations  it  is  generally 
ripe  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  June.  The  tree 
also  bears  •vvell  as  a  dwarf  standard,,  but  against  a  wall 
the  fruit  gets  larger,  and  does  not  fall  off  in  flavor. 

The  Royal  Duke  is  a  rich,  sweet  cherry,  with  most 
of  the  qualities  of  a  May  Duke.  On  a  standard  it 
ripens  in  August. 

Bigarreau^  or  Cfraffion. — This  is  an  excellent  fruit, 
especially  when  it  gets  the  protection  of  a  wall.  In 
the  cherry  orchards  of  England  this  sort  is  now  pretty 
extensively  cultivated,  the  fruit  meeting  with  a  ready 
sale,  and  vast  quantities  being  required  for  the  London 
market. 

Harrison  8  Heart  is  nearly  allied  to  the  Bigarreau  ; 
it  is  rather  of  larger  size  and  of  fine  appearance  in  the 
dessert,  but  inferior  in  flavor.  The  fruit  has  this  ad- 
vantage, that  it  is  not  liable  to  crack  in  wet  weather. 

Belle  de  Clioisy,  an  excellent  cherry.  The  fruit  come 
in  pairs,  red,  mottled  with  amber  color,  tender  and 
sweet.     The  tree  bears  well  as  a  standard. 

Black  Tartarian^  or  Ronald's  Black  Heart,  L.  Hort. 
Cat.,  198 ;  Lind.,  p.  149.  Fruit  large,  obtuse  heart- 
shaped  ;  flesh  half  tender.  "  The  quality  is  good,  and 
in  appearance  it  is  one  of  the  finest."  The  tree  is  a 
good  bearer,  and  well  adapted  for  forcing.     - 

Waterloo. — Raised  by  a  daughter  of  Mr.  Knight  from 
the  Bigarreau  and  May  Duke.  Fruit  black,  large,  ob- 
tuse heart-shaped,  pulp  tender.  It  ripens  in  July,  and 
the  tree  is  a  free  bearer. 

Elton. — Raised  by  Mr.  Knight  from  the  Bigarreau 
and  White  Heart.     Fruit  large,  heart-shaped,  pale  red. 


CHERRIES.  123 

with  a  sweet,  delicious  juice.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer 
and  hardy ;  the  fruit  ripens  shortly  after  the  May 
Duke. 

Kentish  Cherry. — One  of  the  oldest  and  most  pre- 
valent cherries  of  England,  abounding  in  the  orchards 
of  Kent.  When  ripe  it  is  of  a  full  red  color,  and  its 
subacid  flavor  is  very  agreeable.  It  is  commonly 
grown  on  standards,  and  ripens  in  the  end  of  July. 
The  Hort,  Oat.  distinguishes  this  from  the  Flemish  or 
short-stalked,  also  a  good  cherry,  to  which  it  is  cer- 
tainly closely  allied. 

The  3Iorello. — This  is  a  well-known  late  cherry, 
much  in  request  for  confectionery.  The  tree  is  a  co- 
pious bearer,  and  on  a  south  wall  the  fruit  acquires  a 
peculiarly  rich  subacid  flavor.  It  succeeds  perfectly 
well  on  a  north  aspect," where  its  fruit  may  be  retarded 
to  the  end  of  October. 

The  Amher,  or  yellow  Spanish,  is  a  late  fruit,  and 
useful  in  prolonging  the  cherry  season  till  the  begin- 
ning of  September.     It  requires  a  west  wall. 

Among  other  excellent  varieties  may  be  mentioned 
the  Black  Eagle,  the  Black  Heart,  Bowyer's  Early 
Heart,  Carnation,  Downton,  Florence,  and  the  White 
Heart. 

What,  are  called  geans  or  guignes  are  cherries  less 
removed  from  their  natural  state.  The  trees  are  gene- 
rally treated  as  standards,  and  bear  abundantly,  parti- 
cularly when  old.  The  principal,  sorts  are  the  Amber 
gean,  a  plentiful  bearer,  with  sweet  tender  fruit ;  and 
the  Lundie  gean,  bearing  a  small  black  cherry  of  high 
flavor.  This  variety  originated  at  the  ancient  seat  of 
the  Erskines  in  Forfarshire,  but  is  sometimes   called 


124  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

the  Polton  gean,  from  a  place  near  Lasswade  in  Mid- 
Lothian. 

It  may  be  noticed  that,  in  the  Jardin  des  Plantes,  at 
Paris,  the  black-fruited  cherry-tree,  or  Cruignier/is  con- 
sidered as  a  variety  of  Prunus  Cerasus.  The  forest 
cherry-tree,  P.  avium,  is  named  Blerisier  ;  and,  besides 
varieties  with  red  and  with  black  fruit,  there  is  a 
marked  variety  called  Bigarotier. 

The  great  quantities  of  pale-colored  cherries  yearly 
sold  in  the  London  market  are  generally  the  kinds 
called  White  Heart  and  Bigarreau.  The  dark-colored 
cherries  are  chiefly  the  Courone,  which  is  often  passed 
upon  buyers  for  the  Black  Heart.  What  is  called 
Adams'  Courone  resembles  a  small  May  Duke,  and  is 
nearly  as  good,  while  the  tree  is  a  plentiful  bearer. 

The  stock  preferred  for  ch-erries  is  the  wild  gean. 
Mr.  Lindley  recommends  that  dwarf  cherry-trees  should 
be  grafted,  and  two  or  three  year  old  stocks  will  do 
for  them.  For  standard  trees  the  stocks  should  be  at 
least  four  years  old,  and  they  should  be  budded  or 
grafted  five  or  six  feet  from  the  ground.  High  stem- 
med cherry-trees,  or  riders,  are  often  temporarily  em- 
ployed to  fill  up  the  vacant  spaces  on  newly-planted 
south  walls  till  the  dwarf  trees  make  sufficient  pro- 
gress ;  for  these,  stocks  six  or  seven  feet  high  are  re- 
quired. For  dwarf  cherry-trees,  the  best  stocks  are 
procured  from  the  Prunus  (or  Cerasus)  Mahaleb,  the 
sweet-scented  cherry. 

Cherries  are  generally  produced  on  small  spurs 
which  appear  on  the  wood  of  the  second  year,  and 
these  spurs  continue  productive  for  an  indefinite  period. 
Any  form  of  training  may  therefore  be  adopted ;  but, 
as  the  fruit  is  always  finest  on  young  spurs,  perhaps 


CHERRIES.  125 

fan-training,  which  admits  of  the  frequent  renovation 
of  the  bearing  branches,  is  the  most  advantageous.  A 
succession  of  young  shoots  should  be  laid  in  every 
year.  For  the  Morello,  which  is  of  a  twiggy  growth, 
and  bears  on  the  young  wood,  the  fan  form  is  abso- 
lutely necessary.  Whatever  method  be  adopted  for 
general  practice,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  crowd  the 
branches;  for  nothing  is  more  unfavorable  to  the 
productiveness  of  the  trees  than  over-crowding  of 
branches. 

The  Prunus  Marasca,  from  the  fruit  of  which  is  pre- 
pared the  celebrated  liqueur  called  Maraschina  di  Zara, 
is  a  native  of  Dalmatia,  and  would  doubtless  succeed  in 
Britain  and  America  if  fairly  tried. 

We  often  find  terms  adopted  to  designate  diiferent 
kinds  of  cherries,  which  it  will  be  useful  to  understand. 
Of  upwards  of  200  varieties  of  the  cherry  in  cultivation, 
the  French  usually  make  three  general  divisions,  or 
classes,  namely,  G-riottes,  or  the  tender-fleshed ;  Bigar- 
reaus,  or  heart-shaped ;  and  Gfuignes,  or  Geans, 
small-fruited.  The  Morello  has  characteristics  such  as 
the  peculiar  form  and  lowness  of  the  tree,  appearance 
and  character  of  its  fruit,  and  length  of  time  it  hangs 
upon  the  branches  after  maturing.,  all  of  which  serve  to 
distinguish  it  from  other  kinds  of  the  cherry  family. 
Dwarf  cherry-trees  are  procured  either  by  grafting  upon 
Morellos  or  the  Mahaleb,  or  sweet-blossomed  cherry. 
Large  standards  are  generally  engrafted  on  the  second 
year's  growth  from  the  seeds  of  Mazzards,  a  name  de- 
signating a  kind  of  small  black  cherry. 

The  National  Convention  of  Fruit-growers,  which 
met  in  the  city  of  New  York  in  1848,  recommended  the 
following  varieties  of  cherries  as  of  the  best  quality  and 


126  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

most  deserving  of  cultivation  in  the  Union.  Ripening 
in  June  :  May  DuJce,  Kniglifs  Early  Black.  In  July: 
Black  Tartarian^  Black  Eagle^  Graffion,  or  BlgarreaUy 
DoiV7ier's  Late,  EltoUy  Dowhton.  The  Belle  3Iagnifique 
■was  added  to  this  last  at  the  meeting  of  the  same  body 
in  1849. 

The  Pear-Tree  {Pyrus  communis)  is  considered  by 
botanists  as  a  native  of  England.  Many  cultivated 
varieties  seem  to  have  been  introduced  by  the  monks ; 
remains  of  perry  orchards  attached  to  monasteries  of 
the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries  being'not  uncom- 
mon even  in  Scotland,  and  very  ancient  trees  of  the 
finer  dessert  pears,  such  as  the  Colmar  and  Longue- 
ville,  occasionally  occurring. 

The  list  of  cultivated  pears  amounts  to  more  than 
600  names ;  but  the  number  of  those  truly  desirable  is 
not  large.  We  shall  specify  some  of  what  are  con- 
sidered in  England  the  best  dessert  fruit,  following  the 
usual  division  of  Early  and  Late ;  the  former  class 
being  in  season  in  England  in  the  months  of  August, 
September,  and  October,  and  the  latter  in  November, 
December,  and  January.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since 
pears  fit  for  the  dessert  inr  January  were  known  in 
Britain ;  such  as  the  Glout  morceau,  the  Easter  Beurrd 
and  the  Winter  Beurr^ ;  and  they  deserve  the  best 
attention  of  horticulturists.  It  is  to  be  premised,  how- 
ever, that  even  within  the  limits  of  Britain  climate 
makes  an  important  difference  in  the  culture  and  ripen- 
ing of  pears,  of  which  a  remarkable  and  extreme  ex- 
ample may  be  seen  in  the  Chaumontelle — a  fruit  which 
is  produced   abundantly  and   ripened  on  standards  in 


PEARS.  127 

the  south-west  of  England,  and  even  in  the  environs  of 
London,  while  it  requires  a  south  wall  near  Edinburgh. 

•  1.   Earlij. 

Citron  des  Carmes,  L.  Kort.  Oat.,  190  ;  31acleleme, 
Lind.,  p,  344;  in  Scotland  often  called  the  Premature. 
This  is  the  earliest  pear;  it  ripens  in  July,  acquiring 
a  yellowish-green  color ;  it  is  sweet,  but  without  much 
flavor.  One  tree,  or  at  most  two  trees,  may  suflBce. 
It  requires  in  the  English  climate  a  sheltered  situation. 

The  Green  Ohisel,  called  also  the  Hastings,  Pear 
James,  or  Green  Sugar.  This  is  not  a  first-rate  pear; 
but  the  tree  is  hardy  and  a  great  bearer.  It  ripens  in 
August. 

The  Summer  Hose. — A  handsome  round  pear,  of  a 
russety-red  color,  much  resembling  an  apple,  flesh 
white,  rich  and  sugary.  This  is  an  excellent  variety, 
succeeds  on  a  standard,  and  ripens  in  August. 

The  Bishop's  Thumb  is  a  hardy  orchard  pear  of  good 
quality,  and  the  tree  ^is  a  free  bearer.  The  fruit  con- 
siderably res^embles  the  muirfowl  egg,  but  is  earlier. 

The  Jargonelle  of  Britain  is  the  Grosse  Cuisse  Ma- 
dame of  French  horticultural  writers,  and  the  Epargne 
and  Baupresent  of  Erench  practical  gardeners.  This 
is  the  most  common  and  most  esteemed  of  our  early 
autumn  pears.  Against  a  wall  the  fruit  attains  a 
large  size  and  a  beautiful  appearance ;  but  it  is  not  of 
so  high  a  flavor  as  from  standards  or  espalier  rails. 
The  fruit  does  not  keep  well,  and  the  tree  should 
therefore  be  planted  in  various  situations  to  prolong 
its  season,  as  it  is  rather  difiQcult,  when  it  disappears, 
immediately  to  supply  its  place  in  the  dessert.  Beau- 
tiful dwarf  trees  may  be  formed  by  grafting  on  the 


128  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

common  white  tliorn,  which,  however,  are  not  very 
patient  of  transplanting.  The  French  jargonelle  is 
green  on  one  side  and  red  on  the  other,  and  is  a  fruit 
of  inferior  quality. 

The  Mnanas  d'Ete  is  scarcely  noticed  by  our  horti- 
cultural writers ;  but  it  seems  a  good  variety  to  suc- 
ceed the  jargonelle.  In  the  Experimental  Garden  at 
Edinburgh  it  ripens  on  a  standard  in  the  second  week 
of  September.  It  is  of  middle  size,  about  two  and  a 
half  inches  broad,  tapering  a  little,  towards  the  stalk, 
round  at  the  top,  eye  small,  slightly  sunk  in  a  cavity ; 
red  on  the  exposed  side,  green,  and  somewhat  russety 
on  the  other ;  flesh  white,  melting,  with  a  pleasant 
sweet  juice.     Sometimes  called  King  William  Pear. 

The  Summer  Francreal^  or  the  Yat  of  Holland,  may 
be  noticed  as  another  pear  to  follow  the  jargonelle,  as 
it  ripens  about  the  middle  of  September.  The  tree 
proves,  in  general,  a  great  bearer. 

The  LongueviUe. — Some  very  ancient  trees  of  this 
variety  exist  at  Jedburgh ;  and  in  the  garden  of  the 
Regent  Murray  at  Edinburgh  there  are  several  which 
apparently  are  coeval  with  the  times  of  the  Regency. 
Though  the  name  is  now  unknown  in  France,  it  is  con- 
jectured that  the  tree  was  brought  over  from  that 
country  by  the  Douglas,  when  Lord  of  LongueviUe,  in 
the  fifteenth  century.  The  fruit  is  large,  of  a  thick 
conical  shape,  green,  and  of  considerable  flavor.  It 
ripens  in  September. 

The  G-reen  Pear  of  Yair.  This  variety  is  of  Scottish 
origin.  The  fruit  is  obovate,  green,  and  of  a  middle 
size ;  flesh  juicy  and  well-flavored.  It  is  sometimes 
placed  against  a  wall  to  succeed  the  jargonelle ;  but  it 
is  always  better  from  standards.     On  old  trees,  in  light 


PEARS.  129 

soils,  it  sometimes  acquires  a  lemon  color,  with  a  high 
musky  flavor.     Ripens  in  September  and  October. 

The  Duliamel  is  a  good  autumn  pear,  with  a  delicate 
flavor.  From  a  wall  it  comes  in  immediately  after 
the  green  yair,  and  helps  to  fill  up  a  gap  in  the  pear 
season,  especially  in  Scotland ;  standards  produce  free- 
ly, and  their  fruit  is  ready  in  December. 

The  Sechle^  of  American  origin,  deserves  a  place ;  for 
the  tree  is  of  dwarfish  size,  and  suited  for  a  border 
standard,  and  it  seldom  fails  to  yield  a  crop.  The 
fruit  is  small,  but  melting  and  perfumed.  It  does  not 
keep. 

Feast's  Seedling^  raised  from  the  seckle,  is  likewise  a 
fine  early  sort,  of  American  origin. 

The  White  Doyenne. — This  is  an  excellent  sort,  when 
used  at  its  perfection.  In  warm  situations  it  is  well 
adapted  for  dwarf  standards.  Ripens  in  September  and 
October. 

The  Bed  Doyenne^  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  Gray 
Doyenne,  is  also  an  excellent  autumn  pear,  succeeding 
best  on  a  quince  stock. 

The  Elton. — Capital  as  a  standard,  and  strongly  re- 
commended by  Mr.  Knight.  The  tree  produces  healthy 
wood,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  September  and  October. 

The  Em^ly  Bergamot  was  introduced  from  France  in 
1820.  It  is  one  of  the  very  best  early  pears,  as  the  tree 
bears  freely  as  an  open  standard. 

The  Autumn  Bergamot,  or  English  Bergamot,  has 
been  long  known  as  one  of  the  most  highly-flavored 
pears.  It  is  not  the  Bergamotte  d'Autgmne  of  the 
French,  which  is  liable  to  canker  in  this  country,  while 
the  English  bergamot  is  not.  In  England  the  tree 
succeeds  perfectly  well  as  a  standard ;  in  Scotland  it 
12 


130  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

answers  in  good  seasons,  but  there  it  is  deserving  of  a 
west  wall.  The  fruit  is  of  a  depressed  globular  shape, 
not  large  ;  the  flesh  juicj,  sugary,  and  rich,  a  little  grit- 
ty next  the  core.  It  ripens  towards  the  end  of  October, 
but  does  not  keep. 

The  Va7i  Mons  Leon  Leclerc  is  one  of  the  newest  and 
best  autumn  pears,  ripening  from  the  middle  to  the  end 
of  October.  It  is  of  the  size  and  shape  of  the  Duchesse 
d'Angouleme;  sugary,  and  with  ricTi  pine-apple  flavor. 

To  the  list  of  summer  and  early  autumn  pears  might 
be  added  the  Musk  Robine,  Summer  Francreal,  Sum- 
mer Bonchretien  and  Wilbraham  Bonchretien,  generally 
requiring  the  protection  of  a  wall ;  and  the  Lammas 
Pear  of  Scotland,  "soon  ripe,  soon  rotten,"  which  suc- 
ceeds perfectly  well  on  open  standards;  Ambrosia,  Belle 
et  Bonne,  Beurre  d'Amalis,  Caillot  Rosat,  and  the  Hazel 
Pear. 

2.  Late. 

The  Broivn  Beurre  (Red  and  Gray  Buerre  of  various 
authors)  is  a  first-rate  melting  pear.  Against  a  wall 
with  a  good  aspect,  and  with  a  fresh  soil,  the  tree  is  an 
abundant  bearer.  Ripens  in  October  and  November. 
A  variety  raised  at  Dunmore,  and  called  the  Dunmore 
Brown  Beurre,  is  hardy,  and  produces  freely  as  a 
standard,  but  about  a  month  later. 

The  Beurre  de  Capiaumont  is  one  of  the  best  new 
Flemish  varieties.  The  fruit  is  melting  and  well-fla- 
vored, and  ripens  in  October  and  November.  The  tree 
is  a  great  and  constant  bearer,  and  hardy,  answering 
equally  well  as  a  wall-tree  or  a  standard. 

The  Muirfo'wl  Egg. — There  are  two  varieties,  both  of 


PEARS.  131 

Scottish  origin,  of  which  the  Galston  Muirfowl  Egg  is 
the  best.  The  fruit  is  not  attractive  in  appearance, 
but  it  is  of  admirable  quality.  The  tree  is  hardy,  and 
should  be  grown  as  a  standard. 

The  GranseVs  Bergamot  (sometimes  called  Brocas 
Bergamot). — This  noble  pear,  which  has  scarcely  been 
rivaled,  certainly  not  surpassed,  by  any  of  the  imported 
varieties,  is  of  English  origin.  Its  blossoms  are  too 
tender  to  enable  the  tree  to  succeed  as  a  standard;  but 
it  deserves  a  wall,  and  it  should  be  placed  on  various 
aspects  to  prolong  its  season.  It  almost  always  blos- 
soms freely ;  but  frequently  proves  shy  in  setting  : 
thinning  the  blossom  is  found  advantageous.  The  fruit 
ripens  in  November  and  December. 

The  Marie  Louise. — This  excellent  and  large  pear 
w^as  raised  by  the  Abbe  Duquesne,  and  named  after  the 
Empress  in  the  time  of  Bonaparte.  "It  is,"  says  Mr. 
Thompson,  "  one  of  the  very  finest,  even  as  a  standard, 
bearing  abundantly ;  it  succeeds  also  well  on  the  north 
wall."  In  Scotland  it  is  the  better  for  an  east  or  west 
aspect ;  but  on  a  standard  in  a  sheltered  garden  at 
Luffness,  East  Lothian,  the  fruit  has  attained  the  weight 
of  fifteen  ounces,  and  it  has  been  produced  of  excellent 
quality  from  standards  in  the  orchard  of  the  Horticul- 
tural Society's  Garden  at  Edinburgh.  Against  a  wall 
in  Scotland,  it  ripens  in  October  and  November,  and 
on  standards  in  November  and  December  ;  in  England, 
it  is  from  a  month  to  six  weeks  earlier.  The  tree  seems 
nowise  liable  to  canker. 

The  Forme  de  3Iarie  Louise  is  an  excellent  standard 
pear,  though  considerably  smaller  than  the  other.  In 
Scotland  it  ripens  freely  in  October  and  November. 


132  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

The  Dumnore  Pear  comes  into  use  before  the  Marie 
Louise,  and  is  nearly  of  equal  excellence. 

Taylor''8  Seedling^  raised  at  Dunmore,  is  a  good 
pear,  and  so  hardy  as  to  succeed  quite  well  as  a  3tand- 
ard. 

Napoleon,  of  excellent  quality ;  from  a  wall  in  No- 
vember and  December;  and  in  January  from  standards, 
on  which  it  bears  freely. 

DucJiesse  d'Angouleme  (or  Precelf),  a  very  large  and 
showy  fruit,  requiring  a  wall ;  good  in  January  and 
February,  and  therefore  valuable  for  lateness. 

BuerrS  d'Jiremherg, — This  pear,  if  carefully  kept  in 
the  fruit-room,  will,  in  January,  be  found  perfectly 
melting  and  without  grittiness,  and  rich,  sweet,  and 
high-flavored.  The  tree  is  hardy,  succeeding  against 
an  east  or  a  west  wall,  or  as  a  standard  in  any  shelter- 
ed situation,  and  bearing  freely. 

The  Qrasanne  is  an  old  French  sort,  of  excellent 
quality,  with  a  tender  and  finely-flavored  pulp.  The 
tree  deserves  a  south  or  west  aspect  on  a  wall,  and  it 
succeeds  also  on  an  espalier  rail.  The  fruit  ripens  in 
November  and  December. 

The  Althorp  Crasanne  is  a  first-rate  pear,  raised  by 
Mr.  Knight,  ripening  in  October  and  November ;  flesh 
melting,  rich,  and  with  a  fine  rose-water  flavor.  Suc- 
ceeds on  an  east  or  west  wall,  or  on  standards  in  good 
situations ;  the  fruit  from  standards  being  highest  fla- 
vored. 

The  Urhaniste  (often  called  Beurre  Spence)  is  of  a 
large  size,  flesh  melting,  with  a  sweet,  well-flavored 
juice,  and  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  very  best 
pears.  In  Scotland  ripens  against  a  south  wall  in  Oc- 
tober ;  on  standards  in  November. 


PEARS.  133 

The  Colmar  is  also  a  first-rate  pear,  with  a  white 
flesh,  and  of  high  flavor.  In  Scotland  the  tree  requires 
a  south  or  west  wall.  From  this  the  Poire  d'Auch  of 
the  Continent  seems  scarcely  to  "differ.  It  keeps  till 
February  or  March. 

The  Passe  Qolmar  is  an  admirable  Flemish  variety 
lately  introduced  into  this  country;  of  excellent  flavor; 
hardier,  and  a  more  abundant  bearer  than  the  preceding, 
and  more  easily  ripened,  either  against  walls  or  on 
standards.  It  seems  well  adapted  for  flat  espaliers. 
The  fruit  is  in  maturity  in  December  and  January,  and 
extends  into  February. 

Poire  Neille  was  raised  by  M.  Von  Mons,  of  Louvain, 
about  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Caledonian  Horticul- 
tural Society's  deputation  to  Belgium  (in  1817).  It  is 
allied  to  the  Colmars,  with  a  very  white  pulp,  mellow, 
and  saccharine  and  slightly  musky  juice.  It  is  in  sea- 
son during  the  month  of  October,  and  should  be  gath- 
ered a  few  days  before  it  be  ripe.  The  tree  succeeds  as 
a  standard  at  Edinburgh,  bearing  freely ;  and  Mr.  Mat- 
thew of  Gourdieliill  regards  it  as  an  acquisition  to  the 
orchards  of  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  being  calculated  to 
follow  the  Hazel  pear,  equally  productive,  and  superior 
in  size  and  quality. 

1h.Q  Ghut Morceau  (orBeu-rr^  d'Hardenpont)  is  excel- 
lent, from  a  wall,  in  December  and  January.  It  has 
also  been  found  successful  as  a  standard. 

The  Wiyiter  .Beurre  is  in  season  in  January  and 
February.  The  Ne  plus  Meuris  is  good  on  standards, 
and  keeps  till  March,  and  the  tree  is  a  free  bearer. 

The  Easter  Beurre. — Fruit  largCj  obovate,  green  and 
brown  ;  flesh  whitish-yellow,  melting,  and  well  flavored. 
"  It  is,"  says  Mr.  Thompson,  "  hardy,  and  agoodbear- 

12* 


134  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

er  ;  one  of  the  most  valuable  spring  sorts,  compared 
with  which  the  early  pears  of  short  duration  deserve  not 
a  wall ;  its  extensive  cultivation  for  a  long  and  late  sup- 
ply is,  without  hesitation,  strongly  recommended."  In 
season  from  January  to  March.  As  the  tree  ripens  its 
wood  readily,  it  succeeds  as  a  low  standard,  or  trained 
to  an  espalier  rail,  even  in  Scotland.  But  the  experi- 
ence of  gardeners  in  the  north  does  not  lead  them  to 
rank  the  fruit  so  high  as  Mr.  Thompson  does,  as,  when 
trained  against  a  south  wall,  it  often  proves  dry  or 
mealy  with  little  flavor. 

Beurre  Diel  (named  after  a  distinguished  German 
pomologist)  is  a  large  handsome  fruit,  of  the  first  quality, 
coming  in  season  in  November  and  December  from  the 
wall,  and  in  January  from  standards.  Mr.  Thompson 
remarks  that  its  branches  should  be  kept  rather  thin,  its 
large  and  abundant  foliage  being  apt  to  prevent  the  due 
admission  of  sun  and  air  to  the  fruit. 

Beurre  Ilance,  or  de  Ranz.  A  Flemish  variety,  raised 
by  the  late  M.  Hardenpont,  and  sometimes  called  Har- 
denpont  du  printemps;  "the  best  very  late  sort  yet 
known,"  [Sort,  Cat.)  It  ripens  with  difiSculty  in  Scot- 
land, requiring  a  south  or  west  wall;  but  was  found  to 
be  the  best  pear  produced  in  competition  at  a  March 
meeting  of  the  Caledonian  Horticultural  Society.  It 
resembles  the  colmars,  but  keeps  longer. 

The  following,  respecting  which  our  limits  will  not 
permit  us  to  go  into  detail,  may  be  considered  highly 
valuable  sorts  as  late  autumnal  and  winter  pears  ;  Au- 
tumn Colmar,  Aston-town,  Echassery,  Delices  d'llard- 
enppnt,  Fondante  d'Automne,  Beurr^  Bosc,  Duhamel, 
Bezi  de  la  Motte,  Chaumontelle,  Sylvange,  Downton, 
Louise  Bonne   of  Jersey,    Swiss  Bergamot,    Bezi   de 


PEARS.  135 

Quesnoi,  Hacon's  Incomparable,  Winter  Nelis,  Black 
Auchan,  Swan  Egg,  Doyenn^  gris,  and  Flemish  Beauty. 
The  St.  Germain  and  Windsor  may  be  added ;  but  the 
trees  are  rather  liable  to  canker. 

The  Forelle  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  pears ;  but 
it  is  deficient  in  .the  more  essential  quality  of  flavor. 

The  late  Mr.  Knight  of  Downton  raised  the  following 
new  varieties,  which  are  justly  held  in  high  repute: 
Monarch,  March  Bergamot,  Pengethly,  Eyewood,  Moc- 
cas.  Brougham,  Oakley  Park,  Croft  Castle,  and  the 
Broompark,  which  last  is  not  only  excellent,  but  re- 
markably hardy. 

Of  the  Kitchen  Sorts,  or  stewing  pears,  we  may  name 
the  Double-fleur,  Orange  d'Hiver,  Bellisime  d'Hiver, 
Catillac,  Uvedale's  St.  Germain  or  Belle  de  Jersey, 
Warden  or  Black  Worcester,  Gros  de  Lyons,  and  the 
Gilogil.  The  trees  are  placed  against  inferior  walls,  or 
trained  to  espalier  rails,  or  kept  as  dwarf  standards. 
The  Uvedale's  St.  Germain  fruit  often  attains  a  very 
large  size,  especially  against  a  wall ;  but  the  Double- 
fleur  is  equal  in  size,  and  superior  in  quality. 

Pear-trees  are  grafted  either  on  what  are  called  free- 
stocks,  or  on  dwarfing-stocks ;  for  the  former,  which  are 
intended  for  full-sized  trees,  the  seeds  of  the  wilding- 
pear  should  be  sown;  but  frequently  the  pips  of  the 
perry-pears,  and  sometimes  of  the  common  cultivated 
sorts,  are  used.  For  dwarfing  the  quince  is  preferred ; 
but  the  white  thorn,  as  already  mentioned,  is  occasion- 
ally, employed.  Where  the  space  is  limited,  or  the 
ground  is  damp,  the  dwarfing-stocks  are  the  more  suita- 
ble. It  is  a  favorite  doctrine  with  some,  that  by  bud- 
ding or  grafting  on  quince  or  hawthorn,  pears  of  too 
melting  and    sugary  a  quality  acquire  firmness    and 


136  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

acidity.  To  what  extent  this  hohls  good  has  not  been 
correctly  ascertained,  but  that  the  stock  exerts  a  certain 
degree  of  influence  on  the  fruit  is  beyond  dispute.  Some 
of  the- finer  pears  do  not  take  so  readily  on  the  quince: 
in  this  case  double  working  is  resorted  to.  For  exam- 
ple, the  Virgouleuse  maybe  easily  budded  on  the  quince, 
and  the  Beurrd  d'Aremberg  will  afterwards  succeed 
freely  only  on  the  Virgouleuse.  It  may  be  mentioned, 
in  passing,  that  the  ancient  horticulturists  seem  to  have 
supposed  that  a  fruit  was  improved  by  double  working; 
and  that  the  term  reinette,  a  name  applied  to  a  class  of 
apples,  is  considered  as  having  been  derived  from  the 
Latin  renata,  that  is,  a  tree  grafted  upon  itself. 

In  selecting  young  pear-trees,  some  prefer  maide^i 
plants,  that  is,  plants  having  the  growth  of  one  year 
from  the  graft;  but  if  good  trees,  trained  for  two  or 
three  years,  can  be  procured,  so  much  the  better.  It  is 
important  to  ascertain  that  the  stock  and  stem  be  clean 
and  healthy,  and  t^  take  great  care  that  no  injury  be 
done  by  bruising  or  tearing  the  roots  in  lifting  and  re- 
moving. The  young  trees  may  be  planted  at  any  time, 
in  tnild'weather,  from  the  fall  of  the  leaf  to  the  begin- 
ning of  March;  Wall-tree&  require  from  25  to  30  feet 
of  lineal  space  when  on  free-stocks,  and  from  15  to  20 
feet  when  dwarfed.  Standards  on  free-stocks  in  the 
orchard  should  be  allowed  at- least  30  feet  every  way, 
while  for  dwarfs  15  feet  may  suffice.  When  the  trees 
are  trained  en  pyramide  or  en  quenouille^  they  may 
stand  within  eight  feet  of  each  other.  It  is-  very  de- 
sirable that  the  pear  orchard  should  be  in  a  warm  &itua- 
tion,  with  a  soil  deep,  substantial,  and  well  drained,  or 
free  from  injurious  latent  moisture.  Without  attention 
to  these  circumstances,  pear-trees  seldom  succeed. 


•     PEARS.  137 

The  fruit  is  produced  on  spurs,  whicli  appear  on 
shoots  more  than  one  year  old  ;  the  object  of  the  pruner, 
therefore,  ought  to  be  to  procure  a  fair  supply  of  these 
spurs.  The  mode  of  training  wall  pear-trees  most 
commonly  adopted  is  the  horizontal ;  but  each  of  the 
forms  already  mentioned  (pp.  52,  53)  has  its  advan- 
tages, and  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  some  particular 
habit  of  growth  in  the  several  varieties.  For  the  St. 
Germain  and  other  twiggy  sorts,  the  fan  form  is  to  be 
preferred ;  for  the  Gansel's  Bergamot  and  other  strong 
growers,  the  half-fan  or  the  horizontal.  In  the  latter 
form  the  trees  may  often  be  found  fifteen,  twenty,  or 
even  thirty  years  old,  during  which  time  they  acquire 
an  undue  projection  from  the  wall,  and  become  scraggy 
and  unmanageable.  On  the  other  hand,  the  finest  fruit 
is  produced  on  young  spurs,  clearly  indicating  the  neces- 
sity of  a  frequent  renovation  of  the  spurs.  This  would 
lead  to  a  preference  of  the  fan-form,  not,  indeed,  that 
which  is  commonly  practiced,  for  in  it  the  spurs  are  as 
immovable  as  in  any  other  arrangement;  but  rather  that 
recommended  for  peaches,  in  which  there  is  a  continual 
renewal  of  the  branches.  Or,  if  the  horizontal  form, 
which  has  certain  advantages,  be  adopted,  it  should  be 
that  modification  exhibited  in  p.  53  h.  This  is  the 
method  followed  by  Harrison  in  treating  the  Jargonelle. 

The  summer  pruning  of  established  wall  or  espalier 
rail-trees,  consists  chiefly  in  the  timely  displacing  or 
rubbing  off  the  superfluous  shoots,  retaining  only  those 
which  are  terminal  or  well  placed  for  lateral  branches. 
Where  spurs  are  wanted  on  the  older  wood,  about  two 
inches  of  a  fore-right  shoot  are  left ;  and  if  this  be  done 
early,  that  is,  before  the  shoot  has  become  ligneous,  it 
seldom  fails  to  form  fruit-buds.     In  horizontal  training 


138  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

the  winter  pruning  is  nothing  more  than  adjusting  the 
leading  shoots  and  thinning  out  the  spurs,  which  should, 
be  kept  close  to  the  wall  and  allowed  to  retain  only 
two,  or  at  most  three  buds.  In  fan-training  the  sub- 
ordinate branches  must  be  regulated,  the  spurs  thinned 
out,  and  the  young  laterals  which  had  been  loosely 
nailed  in  during  summer  must  be  finally  established  in 
their  places.  'No  crowding  of  branches  should  be  per- 
mitted. When  horizontal  trees  have  fallen  into  disor- 
der they  may  be  renovated  in  the  manner  represented 
at  p.  53  a,  a  procedure  patronized  by  Mr.  Knight ;  or 
ail  the  branches  may  be  cut  back  to  within  nine  inches 
of  the  vertical  stem  and  branch,  and  trained  in  afresh, 
as  recommended  by  Mr.  Lindley. 

When  some  of  the  finer  pear-trees  produce  an  abun- 
dance of  blossom,  but  do  not  set  well,  as  not  unfrequently 
happens,  artificial  impregnation  may  be  partially  re- 
sorted to ;  that  is,  the  blossom  of  some  other  kind  of 
pear,  plentifully  provided  with  pollen,  may  be  taken, 
and  the  farina  dusted  over  the  best  looking  blossoms  of 
the  less  productive  tree. 

Summer  and  autumn  pears  should  be  gathered  before 
they  be  fully  ripe,  otherwise  they  will  not  in'  general 
keep  more  than  a  few  days.  The  Jargonelle,  as  Forsyth 
rightly  advises,  should  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  tree 
and  pulled  daily  as  wanted,  the  standard  fruit  thus  suc- 
ceeding the  produce  of  the  wall-trees.  In  reference  to 
the  Crasanne,  Mr.  Lindley  recommends  gathering  the 
crop  at  three  diiferent  times,  the  first  a  fortnight  or 
more  before  it  be  ripe,  the  second  a  week  or  ten  days 
after,  and  a  third  when  fully  ripe.  The  first  gathering 
will  come  into  eating  latest,  and  thus  the  season  of  the 
fruit  fiiay  be   considerably  prolonged.      It   is   evident 


PEARS.  139 

that  the  same  method  may  be  followed  with  the  Brown 
Beurrd,  Gansel's  Bergamot,  and  any  others  which  con- 
'tinue  only  a  short  time  in  a  mature  state. 

The  varieties,  qualities,  and  relative  merits  of  this 
fruit  seem  to  have  drawn  very  particular  attention  from 
the  National  Congress  of  Fruit-growers,  which  met  in 
the  city  of  New  York  in  1848,  1849,  and  adopted  t)ie 
following  list,  as  including  those  of  the  highest  merits, 
viz:  The  Madeleine,  Dearborn's  Seedling,  Bloodgood, 
Tyson,  Golden  Beurr^  of  Bilboa,  Bartlett,  Williams's 
Bon  Chretien,  or  Bartlett,  Seckel,  Flemish  Beauty, 
Beurr^  Bosc,  Winter  Nelis,  Beurre  d'Aremberg,  Ros- 
tiezer.  Belle  Lucratif,  or  Fondante  d'Automne,  Fulton, 
Andrews,  Buffum,  Urbaniste,  Yicar  of  Winkfield  (or 
Le  Cure),  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  and  for  baking, 
Uvedale's  St.  Germain.  For  particular  localities,  the 
White  Doyenne  and  Gray  Doyenn^,  commonly  known 
as  Butter  Pears. 

To  this  list  of  pears  of  highest  qualities,  the  same 
body  added  the  following,  as  giving  promise  of  being 
worthy  to  be  placed  on  the  list  recommended  for  gene- 
ral cultivation  : — 

Duchesse  d'Orleans,  Brandywine,  Chancellor,  Doy- 
enne d'Et^,  Beurr^  d'Anjou,  Manning's  Elizabeth, 
Brande's  St.  Germain,  Pratt,  Ott,  Striped  Madeleine, 
Annana's  d'Ete^  Jalousie  de  Fontenay  Vendue,  Van 
Assend,  Doyenn(i  Boussock. 

It  is  worthy  of  notice  that  some  of  the  very  best  pears 
known  in  the  United  States  have  originated  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  city  of  Philadelphia;  as,  for  example,  the 
far-renowned  Seckel,  the  W^ashington,  the  Ott,  the 
Tyson,  and  the  Chancellor. 

Grafted  on  the  Quince,  the  Pear-tree  docs  •  not  gene- 


140  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

rally  live  long  in  the  United  States,  especially  wliere 
the  soil  is  dry,  as  the  quince  succeeds  best  in  a  moist 
loamy  soil,  and  pears  grafted  upon  their  stalks  ^yould 
dotfbtless  also  do  far  better  on  such  soils  than  "VN^hen 
placed  in  sandy,  gravelly,  or  other  dry  situations. 

The  Apple-tree  [Pyrus  Malm)  is,  under  the  name 
of  the  Crab,  known  as  a  native  of  Britain.  Most  of  the 
cultivated  sorts,  however,  are  of  foreign  origin,  and  it 
does  not  seem  probable  that. we  possess  at  present  any 
good  variety  which  is  more  than  two  hundred  years  old. 
The  finer  high-flavored  apples  are  prized  for  the 
dessert;  the  juicy  and  poignant  sorts  are  in  request  for 
tarts  and  sauce ;  while  those  of  a  more  austere  nature 
are  manufactured  into  cider.  In  the  second  edition  of 
the  London  Hort.  Society's  Catalogue,  no  fewer  than 
1400  varieties  are  enumerated;  many  of  them  doubtless 
not  well  ascertained,  but  about  175  are  pronounced  to 
be  excellent  sorts.  With  such  a  multitude  before  us,  it 
would  b^  vain  to  attempt  detailed  descriptions  ;  we 
shall  therefore  do  little  more  than  give  a  classified  list 
of  those  most  worthy  of  attention,  referring  the  reader 
for  further  i-nformation  to  the  Catalogue  itself,  to  Mr. 
Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Kitchen  Crarden^ 
and  to  Mr.  Rogers'  Fj^uit  Cultivator ^  and  to  the  nume- 
rous publications  on  fruit-trees  that  have  issued  from 
the  American  press. 

Table  Aiiples. 
The  earliest  of  these  are  the  following  : — The  Juneat- 
ing,  or  White  Geniton,  which,  in  the  climate  of  Eng- 
land, begins  to  ripen   in  the  end  of  July,  and  being 
sugary  and  slightly  perfumed,  forms  a  welcome  addi- 


APPLES.  141 

tion  to  the  dessert.  The  Early  Margaret  is  often  cul- 
tivated ;  it  is  sometimes  called  Red  Juneating  or  Striped 
Juneating,  and  in  Ireland  Peach  Apple.  The  Summer 
Crofton,  or  White  Crofton,  is  of  Irish  origin;  the  tree 
hears  abundantly,  and  if  the  fruit  be  scarcely  equal  to 
the  Juneatings  for  the  dessert,  it  is  very  desirable  for 
culinary  purposes  in  August.  The  Summer  Thorle, 
originating  in  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  is  an  early  apple  of 
considerable  merit,  although  not  mentioned  by  Mr. 
Lindley.  The  Oslin  or  Arbroath  Pippin,  and  the  Early 
Julien  of  Clydesdale,  also  deserve  notice.  The  Sum- 
mer Golden  Pippin,  the  Red  Quarrenden  of  Devon- 
shire, and  the  Early  Harvest,  are  likewise  excellent 
early  dessert  apples. 

To  succeed  these  in  the  autumn  we  have  many  fine 
sorts,  such  as  the  Early  Nonpareil  or  Hick's  Fancy, 
having  a  lively  juice ;  the  Doonside,  a  capital  Ayrshire 
production,  the  tree  being  at  the  same  time  hardy  and 
very  productive ;  Autumn  Pearmain  or  Royal  Pearmain 
of  the  London  nurseries;  Shepherd's  Fame;  Baird's 
Favorite ;  White  Astrachan ;  Mac-lean's  Favorite ; 
Pearson's  Plate;  Pomme  de  Niege,  and  Bourassa; 
Franklin's  Golden  Pippin,  fruit  not  equal  to  the  Old 
Golden  Pippin,  but  the  tree  more  productive  ;  Old 
Golden  Pippin  ;  King  of  the  Pippins  or  Hampshire 
Yellow,  a  valuable  sort;  Plfease  Lady;  Kerry  Pippin, 
one  of  the  finest  Irish  apples ;  and  the  Cole  Apple  or 
Scarlet  perfumed.  The  Lady  Wemyss  of  Fifeshire  is 
suited  either  for  dessert  or  kitchen  use,  and  the  tree  is 
a  free  bearer.  Leisham's  Pippin,  a  large  fruit ;  Long- 
ville's  Kernel,  of  good  quality. 

The  winter  dessert  apples  are  very  numerous,  so  that 
only  a  few  can  be  mentioned.  TheRibstone  Pippin  has 
13 


142  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

long  maintain-ed  a  pre-eminent  character  for  its  rich 
juiciness  and  highly  aromatic  flavor.  If  the  tree  be 
trained  to  a  wall,  the  fruit  is  much  improved  in  size 
and  beauty  ;  but  Mr.  Rogers  is  wrong  in  thinking  thai; 
it  is  thereby  heightened  in  flavor :  the  flavor,  on  the 
contrary,  being  deteriorated.  The  Ribstone  is  an  old 
variety  ;  and  there  is  reason  to  fear  that,  like  the  Gray 
Leadington  (formerly  the  boast  of  Scottish  orchards), 
it  is  verging  to  decay  and  extinction.  Hubbard's  Pear- 
main  is  a  Norfolk  apple  of  the  very  finest  quality,  and 
too  little  known,  especially  in  Scotland ;  the  tree  does 
not  grow  large,  is  quite  hardy,  and  an  abundant  bearer, 
either  as  a  standard  or  when  trained  to  an  espalier 
rail.  The  Dutch  Mignonne  is  another  admirable"  des- 
sert apple,  too  little  known  or  attended  to.  The  Golden 
Harvy,  or  Brandy  Apple  of  Forsyth,  .is  a  beautiful 
though  small  fruit,  and  Mr.  Lindley  characterizes  it  as 
rich,  juicy,  spicy,  and  high-flavored :  the  tree  is  not  a 
large  grower,  is  very  hardy,  and  a  great  and  constant 
bearer;  and  no  garden,  adds  Mr.  Lindley,  "capable  of 
containing  ten  trees,  ought  to  be  without  one  of  it." 
The  Downton  Pippin,  raised  by  Mr.  Knight  from  the 
Orange  Pippin  of  Herefordshire,  dusted  with  the  pollen 
of  the  Old  Golden  Pippin,  must  not  be  omitted.  The 
tree  is  a  great  bearer ;  the  fruit  ripens  in  the  end  of 
October  and  keeps' till  January;  it  has  a  brisk,  subacid 
juice,  which  becomes  saccharine".  The  fruit  should  not 
be  gathered  until  it  has  acquired  a  bright  yellow  co- 
lor, and  parts  freely  from  the  tree.  The  Yellow  In- 
gestrie,  raised  by  the  same  gentleman,  is  likewise  excel- 
lent. To  these  may  be  added  the  Beachamwell ;  Bors- 
doff^er  ;  Court  of  Wick  Pippin,  excclWnt,  though  of  small 
size;  Wood's  Transparent;  Margill;  Scarlet  Crofton ; 


KITCHEN  APPLES.  143 

Golden  Pearmtiin ;  Scarlet  Pearmain ;  Dutch  Mignonne ; 
Fearn's  Pippin  ;  Gravenstein  ;  Paradise  Pippin  ;  Old 
Nonpareil ;  Ross  Nonpareil ;  Braddick's  Nonpareil, 
very  fertile;  Scarlet  Nonpareil;  Pitmaston  Nonpareil ;^ 
Sturmer  Pippin ;  Kirke's  Golden  Rennet ;  Reinette  de 
Canada  ;  Skyeho.use  Russet;  Cornish  Aromatic,  of  first- 
rate  quality;  and  the  Sam  Young,  an  excellent  Irish 
apple  brought  into  notice  by  Mr.  Roberston  of  Kilkenny. 
The  Courtpendu  plat  is  a  capital  winter  dessert  fruit : 
the  tree  is  hardy  and  productive,  and  the  blossom  being 
late  in  expanding,- it  is  a  kind  well  adapted  for  cold  situa- 
tions. The  Norfolk  Beaufin  is  the  best  apple  for  drying 
and  preserving,  making  an  excellent  winter  preserve. 

Of  American  apples,  the  best  for  our  climate  is  the 
Boston  Russet.  Mr.  Thompson  states  that  the  tree  is 
quite  hardy,  very  productive,  and  suitable  for  dwarf 
training  ;  the  fruit  juicy,  with  a  flavor  between  that  of 
the  Rribstone  and  Nonpareil,  and  in  season  from  Decem- 
ber till  April.  The  Newton,  or  Long  Island  Pippin, 
seldom  com-es  to  perfection  in  Britain. 

Kitchen  Apples, 
or  such  as  are  chiefly  used  for  tarts  or  for  sauce,  are 
very  numerous,  and  the  names  of  a  few  of  the  best  can 
only  be  given.  .We  begin  with  the  Scottish  Hawthorn- 
den  ;  though  the  tree  is  liable  to  canker,  yet  it  comes 
early  into  bearing,  and  the  fruit  is  excellent.  The  Cod- 
lins  may  be  next  named,  particularly  the  Spring  Grove, 
the  Kentish  or  Fillbasket,  the  Keswick,  the  Dutch,  and 
the  Manks.  The  Red  Fulwood,  the  Nonsuch,  Minshul 
Crab,  Hanwell  Scouring,  Cat's  Head,  Alexander  Bra- 
bant, AVheeler's  Russet,  Blenheim  Orange,  Ilunthouse 
of  Yorkshire,  and  Forman's  Crewe,  all  are  good.     The 


144  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Bedfordshire  Foundling  is  a  large  and  handsome  apple, 
and  the  tree  a  sure  bearer.  The  Cellini  is  a  good 
kitchen  apple,  for  November,  the  tree  hardy  and  very 
productive,  and  the  fruit  beautiful.  Among  the  best 
long-keeping  apples  are  the  Scottish  Gogar  Pippin, 
sometimes  called  Moncreiff  Pippin,  or  Stone  Pippin ; 
Alfriston ;  Wormsley  Pippin  ;  and  the  Yorkshire 
Greening  and  Northern  Greening,  particularly  the  lat- 
ter;  Baxter's  Pearmain;  Winter  Strawberry  Apple; 
the  Tulip,  a  small  Dutch  fruit,  of  a  dark  p^d  color, 
and  with  a  lively  juice  ;  Bellefleur  of  Brabant ;  Calvill's 
Malingre;  Dutch  Mignonne ;  Winter  Lud ;  Pentcait- 
land  Pippin;  Cambusnethan  Pippin;  the  Alderston 
Pippin  of  East  Lothian.  The  .  Cockle  Pippin  or  Nut- 
meg Apple,  an  excellent  apple,  and  the  tree  a  fertile 
bearer ;  the  Wellington,  otherwise  called  Dumelow's 
Seedling,  is  a  very  juicy-  kitchen  apple,  and  keeps  &m 
till  April,  and  the  tree  i«  not  liable  to  canker.  The 
Green  Fulwood  of  Mr.  Matthew  is  a  good  kitchen  apple, 
and  keeps  till  May.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the 
Hoary  Morning,  and  the  tree  is  a  great  bearer.  The 
Cockpit  is  a  useful  culinary  apple  for  winter  ;  the  tree 
hardy  and  a  great  bearer.  The  New  Cockpit  is  an  ex- 
cellent apple,  remarkably  perfumed.  An  apple,  called 
the  French  Crab  (but  which  is  of  a  considerable  size, 
notwithstanding  this  name),  keeps  firm  in  substance. till 
the  return  of  the  apple  season;  and  the  sub  variety  of 
this,  called  Hambledon's  or  Deux-ans,  is  described  in 
Ronalds'  Pomona  as  still  superior.  Several  apples  of 
Scottish  origin  are  of  great  merit,  though  not  recognized 
in  the  writings  of  Lindley  or  Rogers ;  such  as  the  Pow 
Captain,  the  Kinnoul  Codling,  Tarn  Montgomery,  and 
the  Tower  of  Glan^mis-. 


APPLES.  145 

Some  excellent  new  varieties  of,  apples  have  of  late 
years  been  produced  both  in  England  and  Scotland. 
Mr.  Hardy  of  Bothkenner,  by  crossing  the  Court  of  Wick 
Pippin  with  the  Nonpareil,  ha?  raised  seedlings  partak- 
ing of  the  good  qualities  of  both  parents,  and  these  have 
received  the  warmest  approval  of  the  Scottish  Horticul- 
tural Society. 

It  may  be  mentioned,  that  information  respecting  the 
fruits  cultivated  for  the  manufacture  of  cider  and  perry 
may  be  obtained  in  the  Pomona  Herefordiensis,  pub- 
lished by  Mr.  Knight,  and  illustrated  with  engravings 
by  the  late  Mr.  W.  Hooker.  Cider  is  principally  made 
in  Herefordshire  and  Gloucestershire,  which  are  called 
the  cider  counties  ;  but  much  also  is  produced  in  Devon- 
shire. For  the  encouragement  of  its  manufacture  in 
Scotland,  premiums  have  been  offered  by  the  Caledonian 
Horticultural  Society,  but  little  good  Scottish  cider  has 
hitherto  appeared. 

Several  kinds  of  stocks  are  used  for  apple-trees.  The 
Dutch  Paradise,  propagated  by  layers,  has  long  been 
used  as  a  stock  for  Dwarf  apple-trees,  whether  intended 
for  the  wall  or  for  standards.  The  Doucin  of  the  French 
seems  closely  allied  to  this,  if  not  identical  with  it.  The 
bur-knot  varieties  inx^reased  by  cuttings,  or  young  cod- 
lin  plants  procured  from  layers,  furnish  convenient 
stocks  for  trees  from  which  it  is  hoped  to  procure  desir- 
able seedlings.  For  common  purposes,  the  stocks  raised 
from  the  pips  of  crabs  or  of  cider  apples  are  preferred. 
Stocks  kept  one  or  two  years  in  nursery-lines  are  fit  for 
grafjting  upon ;  but  if-  a  considerably  tall  steni  be 
wished,  they  must  remain  three  or  four  years  in  the 
nursery,  and  be  pruned  up,  till  they  attain  five  or  six 
feet  of  height.     In  the  Dutch  nurseries,  where  apple- 

13* 


146  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

trees  arc  trained  for  some  years  to  the  cup-shape,  the 
table,  the  pyramidal,  or  the  bulb  forms,  before  they  be 
sold  to  the  public,  the  trees  are  repeatedly  transplant- 
ed ;  but  with  us,  where  such  forms  are  less  sought  after, 
the  utility  of  more  transplantations  than  from  the  seed- 
bed to  the  nursery-lines,  and  thence  to  the  garden, 
may,  in  Mr.  Knight's  opinion,  be  questioned.  Any 
common  soil,  provided  the  subsoil  be  dry,  suits  the 
apple-tree.  Shallow  planting  should,  in  all  cases,  be 
practiced,  and  young  trees  should  be  carefully  staked, 
to  prevent  wind-waving. 

The  fruit,  as  in  the  pear-tree,  is  produced  on  spurs, 
which  come  out  on  the  branchlets  of  two  or  more  years' 
growth,  and  continue  fertile  for  a  series  of  years.  There 
is,  therefore,  no  very  material  difference  in  the  pruning 
and  training  of  the  pear  and  of  the  apple-tree.  On  walls, 
the  horizontal  mode  of  training  is  commonly  follawed,  as 
best  calculated  to  repress  the  too  vigorous  growth  of  the 
tree  ;  but  for  the  nonpareil,  and  other  twiggy  varieties, 
perhaps  the  fanform,  or  some  modification  of  the  fan 
form,  is  preferable.  For  standards,  where  the  soil  is 
rich  and  the  growth  rapid,  all  that  is  necessary  in  prun- 
ing is  to  thin  out  the  branches,  and  to  prevent  their 
crossing  and  rubbing  against  each  other.  Where  there 
is  little  luxuriance,  as  in  the  case  of  all  dwarfs,  it  is 
useful  to  shorten  the  branches  occasionally,  and  to  re- 
move useless  twigs.  Dwarfs  on  paradise  stocks  may  be 
treated  almost  like- currant.-bushes;  that  is,  making 
them  open  in  the  centre,  or  cup-shaped,  to  the  great 
advantage  both  of  the  size  and  beauty  of  >  the  fruit. 
The  general  winter  pruning  may  take  .place  any  time 
from  the  beginning  of  November  to  the  beginning  of 
March.     After  the  winter  pruning,  same  cultivators  de- 


APPLES.  147 

lay  the  shortening  of  the  young  wood  of  the  former 
year  till  the  middle  or  end  of  April,  when  the  buds 
have  swollen.  Cankered  or  diseased  wood,  and  all  un- 
fruitful snags  or  ragged  spurs,  are  then  to  be  neatly 
cut  out.  Where  the  scars  are  large,  they  should  be  laid 
over  with  some  composition  calculated  to  resist  the  ac- 
tion of  the  air  and-  rain. 

If  the  American  blight,  or  woolly  aphis  (the  Erioso- 
ma  3Iali  of  Leach)  makes  its  appearance  on  a  tree,  the 
utmost  care  should  be  taken  to  clean  every  part  of  the 
bark  with  a  hard  brush  and  some  searching  wash  ;  for, 
should  the- insect  be  left  unmolested,  it  will  speedily 
spread  over  all  the  apple-trees  in  the  neighborhood. 
It  is  often  inti'oduced  with  imported  trees  brought  from 
distant  nurseries:  when  this  is  observed,  the  pest  is  so 
grievous  that  the  entire  sacrifice  of  two  or  three  trees 
is  a  small  price  to  pay  for  its  removal.  Mr.  Waterton, 
in  his  Essays  07i  Natural  History^  recommends  a  simple 
remedy,  which  he  found  effectual,  viz.,  mix  clay  with 
water  till  it  be  of  a.  consistency  to  be  applied  like  thick 
paint  to  the  injured  parts,  either  with  a  trowel  or  a 
brush;  a  second  coat  upon  the  first  fills  up  every  crack 
which  may  show  itself  when  the  first  coat  becomes  dry ; 
the  clay  resists  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time  the  efi^ects 
both  of  sun  and  rain,  and  before  it  gradually  falls  off 
every  insect  is  completely  smothered. 

For  the  SXoring  of  Pears  and  Ajyples  there  should  be 
attached  to  every  considerable  garden  a  commodious 
fruit-room,  well  ventilated,  furnished  with  fire-places  or 
stoves  to  exclude,  frost,  and  fitted  up  with  a  variety  of 
shelves.  A  northern  aspect  is  the  most  suitable  ;  and 
it  is  .also  desirable  that  there  should  be  a  dry,  cool  cel- 
lar under  it,  to  be  employed  in  retarding  the  maturation 


148  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

and  decay  of  some  of  the  more  fugitive  varieties.  All 
the  fruit  intended  for  keeping  should  be  plucked  with 
the  hand,  or  with  such  an  implement  as  the  fruit-gatherer 
invented  by  Mr.  Saul,  of  Lancaster.  For  the  finer  des- 
sert fruits  the  shelves  should  be  made  of  hard  wood,  not 
of  fir,  and  the  fruit  should  be  laid  upon  cartridge  or 
WTiting  paper,  to  prevent  its  imbibing  any  taint  from 
the  wood.  The  kitchen  fruit  may  be  kept  in  layers  two 
or  three  deep,  but  not  in  heaps,  and  should  be  occasion- 
ally examined,  when  decaying  fruit  is  to  be  removed. 
The  siveating  of  apples  and  pears,  formerly  much  prac- 
ticed, is  now  abandoned,  as  being  attended  with  no  use- 
ful effects. 

In  the  United  States,  this  most  valuable  of  all  fruits 
is  of  universal  culture,  although  it  attains  to  highest  per- 
fection in  the  Middle  and  some  of  the  Northern  States. 
The  catalogue  of  the  apple  of  the  London  Horticultural 
Society,  including  no  less  than  1,400  varieties,  shows  an 
immense  increase  since  the  days  of  Pliny,  when  only  22 
were  named.  Of  the  kinds  which  have  been  introduced 
into  the  United  States  from  abroad,,  many  of  great 
value  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  co-untry  :  the  fol- 
lowing have  been  pronounced  of  the  highest  merit  by 
the  National  Congress  of  Fruit-growers  held  at  the  City 
of  New  York  in  1848:  Early  Harvest,  Large  Yellow 
Bough,  American  Summer  Pearmain,  Summer  Rose, 
Early  Strawberry,  Gravenstein,  Fall  Pippin,  Rhode 
Island  Greening,  Baldwin,  Roxbury  Russet ;  and,  for 
'particular  localities — Yellow  Belle  Fleur,  Esopus  Spitz- 
enburg,  Newtown  Pippin  ;  to  which  was  added,  at  a 
subsequent  meeting  of  the  same  body,  the  White  Seek- 
no-fuTther,  F^meuse,  Porter,  Hubbardstown,  Nonsuch, 
Winesap,  Lady  Apple,  Danver's  Winter  Sweet,  Wine 


QUINCE.  149 

Apple,  Red  Astraclian,  Vandervere,  Bullock's  Pippin, 
Swaar. 

Under  favorable  circumstances  of  climate  and  soil, 
the  apple-tree  attains  to  great  age.  In  Herefordshire, 
England,  th^re  are  said  to  be  trees  1000  years  old. 
The  ordinary,  or  perhaps  average  duration  of  healthy 
trees  grafted  on  crab  stocks  and  planted  in  a  strong  tena- 
cious soil,  has  been  computed  by  Mr.  Knight — a  great 
English  authority  upon  such  subjects— at  200  years. 
Old  trees  headed  down  to  standard  height,  the  branches 
being  topped  off  within  a  foot  or  two  of  the  trunk,  and 
the  young  shoots  grafted  upon,  may  thus  be  made  pro- 
ductive in  a  very  short  time. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  the  Paradise  apple  used  by 
nurserymen  for  grafting  upon  to  produce  dwarf  trees. 
The  smallest  is  commonly  known  as  the  French  Para- 
dise. Next  comes  -the  common  English  Paradise,  which 
is  rather  larger,  and  the  largest  of  all  the  dwarf  Para- 
dise apples  is  what  the  French  call  Doucin. 

The  QuixcE  {Pyrus  Cydonia)^  allied  to  the  apple,  is 
a  native  of  the  south  of  Germany.  It  is  but  little  cul- 
tivated in  Britain.  The  fruit,  which  is  austere  when  raw, 
is  well  calculated  for  giving  flavor  and  poignancy  to 
stewed  or  baked  apples.  The  two  principal  sorts  are 
the  Portugal  Quince  and  the  Pear  Quince,  of  which  the 
latter  is  the  most  productive,  whik  it  serves  the  usual 
culinary  purposes  equally  well  as  the  other.  Quinces 
may  be  propagated  by  layers,  or  by  cuttings,  or  by 
graftings.  Two  or  three  trees  planted  in  the  slip  or 
orchard  are  in  general  sufficient.  In  Scotland,  the  fruit 
seldom  approaches   maturity,  unless  favored  by  a  wall. 

In  the  United  States,  the  quince  grows  almost  every- 


150  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

"where,  although  It  does  best  in  a  mellow  soil  retentive 
of  moisture,  and  in  situations  partially  shaded.  The 
tree  may  be  propagated  by  grafting,  and  also  by  cuttings 
and  layers.  It  is  of  slow  growth,  much  branched,  and 
generally  crooked:  when  planted  in  an  orchard  the  trees 
may  be  placed  ten  or  twelve  feet  apart. 

The  following  named  kinds  are  best  known  in  the 
United  States :  The  Bear  Quince,  so  named  for  its 
pyriform  shape  ;  the  Apple  Quince',  from  its  rounder 
form  ;  the  Portugal  Quince,  the  taste  of  which  is  less 
harsh  than  that  which  generally  distinguishes  other 
quinces.  When  made  into  marmalade,  its  pulp  has  the 
property  of  assuming  a  beautiful  purple  hue.  For  these 
qualities,  the  fruit  is -highly  esteemed,  although  tTie  tree 
is  a  shy  bearer. 

The  Mild  or  Eatable  Quince  is  still  less  austere  than 
the  other  kinds.  The  Orange  Quince,  besides  boing  a 
handsome  fruit,  possesses  a  fine  flavor.  The  Musk 
or  Pine-apple  Quince' is  very  large  and  beautiful. 

The  Medlar  {3fespilus  G-erynanica)  is  a  native  of  the 
south  of  Europe,  but  has  been  naturalized  in  some  parts 
of  the  south  of  England.  The  varieties  worth  notice  are 
the  Dutch-Medlar,  with  broad  leaves;  and  the  Notting- 
ham Medlar,  with  narrow  leaves  ;  of  these  the  latter  is 
considered  the  best.  The  fruit- is  gathered  in  Novem- 
ber, and  kept  till  it  begins  to  decay,  Avhen  it  is  served  up 
in  the  dessert,  and  highly  relished  by  some.  Tho  treat- 
ment recommended  for  the  quince  may  be  applied  to 
the  medlar. 

The  trees  of  this  family  are  very  handsome,  and  de- 
serve a  place  in  every  shrubbery.  Any  cominoh  soil 
suits  them,  and  they  are  readily  propagated  by  budding 


MULBERRY.  151 

or  grafting  on  the  common  hawthorn,  or  by  the  seeds, 
which,  however,  do  not  come  up  till  the  second  year* 
The  common  medlar  is  found  growing  wild  in  English 
hedges,  and  in  this  state  has  thorns  which  disappear  un- 
der culture.  Several  varieties  have  been  produced  dif- 
fering in  size  and  flavor.  The  fruit  has  a  harsh  taste, 
which  unfits  it  for  eating  until  it  has  been  mellowed  by 
long  Keeping. 

The  Service-Tree  [Pyriis  domestica)  is  a  native  of 
the  mountainous  parts  of  Cornwall,  and  though  not  much 
cultivated,  may  be  here  noticed.  The  fruit  has  a  pecu- 
liar acid  flavor,  and  is  used  only  when  thoroughly  mel- 
lowed by  keeping.  There  is  a  pear-shaped,  and  also  an 
apple-shaped  variety,  both  of  which  may  be  propagated 
by  layers,  and  still  better  by  grafting  on  seedling  plants 
of  their  own  kind.  Two  or  three  trees  may  have  a  place 
in  the  orchard,  or  perhaps  in  a  sheltered  corner  of  the 
lawn.  The  tree  is  seldom  productive  till  it  have  arrived 
at  a  goodly  age.  The  fruit  is  brought  to  Covent  Garden 
Market  in  winter ;  but  it  is  never  «een  at  Edinburgh. 
Near  Paris,  the  tree  is  a  good  deal  cultivated  under  th-e 
name  of  cornier-;  and  there  are  a  number  of  varieties  of 
the  Service  grown  in  the  north  of  Italy. 

The  Mulberry  {3Iorus  nigra)  is  a  native  of  Persia, 
and  in-  England  requires  a  warm  sheltered  situation-. 
The  fruit  is  in  request  for  the  dessert  during  the  months 
of  August  and  September,  having  a  rich  aromatic  fla- 
vor, and  a  fine  subacid  juice.  Where  it  is  abundant, 
wine  is  made  from  it.  In  Devonshire,  a  little  of  the 
juice  added  to  full-bodied  cider,,  produces  a  delicious 
beverage,  called  Mulberry  Cider,  which  retains  its  fla- 


152  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

vor  for  many  months.  The  mulberry  is  propagated 
by  cuttings  or  by  layers,  but,  to  expedite  the  production 
of  fruit,  it  is  useful  to  inarch  small  bearing  branches  on 
stocks  prepared  in  flower-pots.  Mulberry  standard  trees 
succeed  only  in  the  southern  counties.  These  require 
no  other  training  than  an  occasional  thinning  out  of  the 
branches.  They  are  generally  planted  on  grassy  lawns, 
so  that  when  ripe  fruit  falls  from  the  higher  branches,  it 
can  be  gathered  up  without  having  sustained  injury.  In 
the  middle  districts,  espalier  rails  may  be  employed, 
particularly  under  the  reflection  of  a  south  wall.  In 
colder  situations,  the  mulberry  must  be  treated  as  a 
wall-ti:ee ;  and  it  has  been  recommended  that  the  bear- 
ing shoots  should  be  trained  perpendicularly  downwards. 
Mr.  Knight  strongly  advises  the  forcing  of  this  fruit  in 
flower-pots,  much  in  the  same  way  as  is  done  with  figs. 
The  mulberry  as  a  fruit  is  little  known  in  Scotland  ;  but 
a  few  aged  trees  exist  in  old  gardens,  and  in  favorable 
seasons  afi'ord  their  berries. 

The  Hazel  [Corylus  Avellana),  one  of  the  indigen- 
ous edible  nuts  of  England,  is  the  original  parent  of  the 
red  and  white  Filbert,  Cobnut,  Crossford-nut,  Frizzled, 
Spanish,  and  other  improved  varieties.  These  succeed 
best  on  a  rich  dry  loam,  oarefully  worked,  and  receiv- 
ing from  time  to  time  a  slight  manuring.  They  are 
generally  planted  in  the  slip,  but  thrive  best  in  a  quar- 
ter by  themselves.  The  varieties  are  propagated  by 
layers  or  by  suckers  ;  but  where  there  are  stocks  of  the 
common  hazel,  the  other  kinds  may  be  grafted  upon 
them.  The  Cosford  is  generally  preferred,  being  thin- 
shelled,  and  having  a  kernel  of  high  flavor.  If  the 
Filbert  or  the  Cosford  be  grafted  on  small  stocks  of  the 


HAZEL.  153 

Spanish  nut,  which  grows  fast,  and  does  not  send  out 
side-suckers,  dwarfish  prolific  trees  may  be  obtained  ; 
and  by  pruning  the  roots  in  autumn,  the  trees  may  be 
kept  dwarf. 

The  neighborhood  of  Maidstone  in  Kent  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  the  culture  of  nuts  for  the  London 
market ;  and  as  the  best  Kentish  practice  is  scarcely 
known  in  other  parts  of  Britain,  we  may  enter  a  little 
into  detail.     The  young  plants  are  almost  always  suck- 
ers from  old  bushes,  and  are  planted  about  ten  or  twelve 
feet  apart.     They  are  suffered  to  grow  without  restraint 
for  about  three  years,  and  are  then  ciit  down  to  within 
a  few  inches  of  the  ground.     They  push  out  five  or  six 
shoots ;  and  these  in  their  second  year  are  shortened 
one  third.     A  hoop  is  then  placed  within  the  branches, 
and  the  shoots  are  fastened  to  it  at  nearly  equal  dis- 
tances.    In  the  spring  of  the  fourth  year,  all  the  laterals 
are  cut  off  close  by  the  principal  stems,  and  from  these 
cut  places  short  shoots  proceed,  on  which  fruit  is  ex- 
pected in  the  following  year.     Those  which  have  borne 
fruit  are  removed  by  the  knife,  and  an  annual  supply 
of  young  shoots  is  thus  obtained.     The  leading  shoots 
are  always  shortened  about  two-thirds,  and  every  bear- 
ing twig  is  deprived  of  its  top.     In  the  early  spring- 
pruning,  attention  should  be  given   that   a  supply  of 
male  blossoms  be  left,  and  all  suckers  should  be  care- 
fully eradicated.     These  Kentish  nut-plantations  some- 
what resemble  large  quarters  of  gooseberry-bushes,  few 
of  the  trees  exceeding  six  feet  in  height.     For  addi- 
tional information,  the  reader  may  be  referred  to  a  pa- 
per on  this  subject  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Williamson,  in  the 
fourth  volume  of  the  Transactions  of  the  London  Hor- 
ticultural Society. 
14 


154  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

The  English  Filbert  has  not,  as  yet,  been  cultivated 
with  much  interest  or  successin  the  United  States,  the 
"v^oods  of  which,  however,  produce  a  native  hazelnut, 
which,  by  judicious  culture  and  perhaps  hybridizing  with 
the  European  Filbert,  might  be  made  a  desirable  fruit, 
equal  to  and  perhaps  superior  to  any  kind  known  at  the 
present  day.  Mr.  Downing  has  published  a  paper  upon 
the  culture  of  the  filbert  in  the  United  States,  to  the  soil 
and  climate  of  wliich  he  thinks  the  varieties  known  in 
England  as  Cosford,  Frizzled,  and  Northampton  Proli- 
fic, best  axiapted.  When  gathered  ripe,  filberts  will 
keep  and  retain  a  good  flavor  longer  than  any  other 
kind  of  nut.  In  dry  rooms  they  will  keep  well  for  many 
years,  whilst  in  air-tight  jars  they  may  be  kept  an  in- 
definite period. 

The  AYalnut  [Juglans  regia)  is  a  native  of  Persia 
and  the  south  of  the  Caucasus,  and  in  Britain,  therefore, 
the  fruit  seldom  comes  to  complete  Maturity,  except  in 
the  warmer  districts.  Besides  the  common  walnu:t,  there 
are  several  varieties  cultivated  in  England,  particularly 
Ihe  Large-fruited  or  Double  Walnut,  the  Tender-shelled, 
and  the  Thetford  or  Highflyer,  which  last  is  said  (Lond. 
Hort.  Trans.,  iv.  517)  to  be  "by  far  the  best  walnut 
grown."  The  varieties  can  be  propagated  with  certain- 
ty only  by  budding  or  inoculating;  but  the  operation  is 
rather  nice,  and  not  unfrequently  fails.  Mr.  Knight's 
method  is  described  in  the  Lo7ido7i  Transactions,  vol.  iii. 
p.  133.  Plants  raised  from  the  seed  seldom  become 
productive  till  they  be  twenty  years  old.  The  fruit  is 
produced  at  the  extremities  of  the  shoots  of  the  preced- 
ing year ;  and  therefore,  in  gathering  the  crop,  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  young   wood.       In 


CHESTNUT.  155 

Kent,  the  trees  are  thrashed  with  rods  or  poles ;  but  this 
is  rough  J  and  far  fr< 
collecting  tire  nuts. 


is  rough  J  and  far  from   being  a  commendable  mode  of 


The  Chestnut  {Castanea  vesca),  like  the  preceding, 
has  long  been  an  inmate  of  the  woods  of  England,  in 
which  it  grows  to  a  great  size;  but  it  seldom  ripens  its 
fruit  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  island.  Several  vari- 
eties, remarkable  for  their  productiveness  and  early 
bearing,  have  of  late  years  risen  into  notice;  particular- 
ly Knight's  Prolific,  the  New  Prolific,  and  the  Devon- 
shire. These  are  propagated  by  grafting  upon  stocks 
raised  from  nuts ;  and  when  grafts  are  taken  from  bear- 
ing wood,  fruit  may  be  produced  in  a  couple  of  years. 
The  tree  thrives  best  on  a  dry  subsoil. 

This  tree  is  by  no  means  so  extensively  cultivated  in 
the  United  States  as  it  deserves  to  be.  The  wild  chest- 
nuts of  the  forests  are  very  abundant  and  very  sweet. 
But  they  are  far  surpassed  in  size  by  the  varieties 
brought  from  Europe,  the  product  of  which  bear  a  very 
high  price  in  the  markets  of  American  cities.  They  are 
readily  propagated  from  seed  of  excellent  quality,  but 
the  most  select  varieties  must  be  procured  through  graft- 
ing and  budding.  Some  English  catalogues  contain  30 
or  40  varieties  of  cultivated  chestnuts.  The  American 
Chinquapin  is  a  very  small  species  of  chestnut,  not  flat- 
tened but  rounded,  and  terminating  at  one  extremity  in 
a  point.  It  is  very  common  in  the  woods  of  the  South- 
ern States,  and  southern  portions  of  some  of  the  Mid- 
dle States,  growing  about  20  to  30  feet  in  height.  The 
chinquapin  is  very  sweet  and  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and 
deserves  cultivation,  selling  well  in  the  market. 


156  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


SMALL  FRUITS. 

The  Red,  White,  and  Black  Currant,  the  Gooseberry, 
the  Kaspberrj,  the  Strawberry,  and  Cranberry,  are 
usually  cultivated  in  English  gardens,  under  the  title  of 
Small  Fruits.  Their  economical  uses  in  cookery,  con- 
fectionery, and  in  the  manufacture  of  home-made  wines, 
attach  to  them  considerable  importance,  and  render  de- 
sirable a  separate  account  of  them,  however  brief. 

The  Rihes  ruhrumy  Lin.,  includes  as  its  varieties  the 
Red  and  White  Currants.  The  principal  subvarieties 
are: 

Common  Red.  Champagne. 

Red  Dutch.         .  Common  White. 

Knight's  Sweet  Red.  Dutch  White. 

Red  and  white  currants  are  readily  propagated  by 
cuttings.  They  succeed  in  any  sort  of  common  garden 
soil ;  but  seem  to  thrive  best  in  w^arm,  moist  situations, 
where  they  enjoy  an  abundance  of  air.  A  few  plants 
are  sometimes  placed  against  walls,  on  which  they  are 
trained  perpendicularly.  Currants  are  sometimes  planted 
in  single  lines  in  the, borders  which  separate  the  plots  in 
the  kitchen  garden  ;  but  it  is  generally  better  to  confine 
them  to  compartments  by  themselves.  In  these  they 
should  hjd  arranged  in  quincunx  order,  at  six  feet  be- 
tween the  lines,  and  six  feet  apart  in  the  line.  They 
may  be  transplanted  at  any  time  between  the  fall  of  the 
leaf  and  the  first  movement  of  the  sap.  They  are  train- 
ed as  bushes,  from  single  stems  of  about  a  foot  in  height, 
care  being  taken  to  prevent  the  main  branches  from 
crossing  each  other.  In  winter,  the  young  bearing 
wood  on  the  sides  of  the  branches  is  shortened  down 


GOOSEBERRY.  157 

into  spurs,  from  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  length.  The 
leading  shoots  are  left  about  six  inches  long.  Some 
careful  cultivators  reduce  the  young  shoots  to  about  half 
their  length  as  soon  as  the  fruit  begins  to  color,  an  ope- 
ration which,  in  consequence  of  the  more  free  admission 
of  sun,  is  found  to  increase  the  size  and  improve  the 
flavor  of  the  berries. 

Of  Hibesf  nigrum,  Lin.,  or  black  currant,  there  are 
several  varieties,  of  which  we  need  mention  only  the 
Common  Black,- and  the  Black  Naples.  The  latter  is 
accounted  the  preferable .  sort.  The  black  currant 
thrives  best  in  a  moist,  deep  soil,  and  shady  situation. 
Its  culture  is  much  the  same  as  that  of  the  other  cur- 
rants, but  the  young  shoots  are  not  spurred.  All  the 
pruning  necessary  is  to  keep  the  branches  free  of  each 
other,  and  to  promote  a  succession  of  young  wood. 

The  American  Congress  of  Fruit-growers  at  its  meet- 
ing in  the  City  of  New  York  in  1849,  recommended  the 
following  as  the  best  varieties  of  currants  for  cultivation : 
Red  Dutch,  Black  Naples,  White  Dutch,  May's  Vic- 
toria, and  White  Grape. 

The  Gooseberry.  —  Botanists  distinguished  two 
species ;  Bibes  Groesularia,  or  rough-fruited  gooseber- 
ry ;  and  Rihes  uva  crispa,  or  smooth-fruited  gooseber- 
ry. The  gooseberry  has  always  been  a  favorite  fruit  in 
Great  Britain,  and. is  said  to  be  produced  in  the  middle 
districts  of  the  island  in  greater  perfection  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world.  Many  very  large  sorts  have 
originated  in  Lancashire,  where  the  culture  has  been 
carried  to  a  high  degree  of  refinement ;  but  it  is  to  be 
regretted  that  loeight  seems,  unreasonably  enough,  to 
be   regarded  in  the  prize  competitions  in  that  duchy  as 

14* 


158  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

the  sole  criterion  of  excellence.  Berries  of  twenty  or 
even  twenty-four  pennyweights  are  boasted  of;  but 
such  Goliaths  are  almost  always  inferior  in  flavor.  The 
following  are  some  of  those  sorts  recommended  in  the 
catalogue  of  the  London  Horticultural  Society. 

Red. — Red  Champagne,  Ironmonger,  Rob  Roy,  Small 
Red  GRobe,  Keen's  Seedling,  Lord  of  the  Manor,  Leigh's 
Rifleman,  Red  Warrington,  Wellington's  Glory,  Ship- 
ley's Black  Prince. 

Yellow. — Yellow  Ashton,  Yellow  Champagne,  Golden 
Yellow,  Smiling  Beauty,  Smooth  Yellow,  Yellow-smith, 
Rumbullion. 

White. — Bright  Venus,  White  Champagne,  Chefshire 
Lass,  White  Crystal,  White  Damson,  Whitesmith,  White 
Honey.  ■  ' 

Gf-reen. — Green  Gascoigne,  Pitmaston  Greengage, 
Langley  Green,  Late  Green,  Green  Laurel,  Gregory's 
Perfection,  Green  W^alnut,  Jolly  Tar,  Cupper's  Bonny 
Lass. 

Some  admirable  new  varieties  have  of  late  years  been 
raised  in  Scotland,  particularly  in  Perthshire;  the 
Delvine  Porcupine,  New  L'onmonger,  and  Mignonette, 
are  not  surpassed  by  the  finest  of  the  English  produc- 
tions. 

In  forming  his  collection,  the  horticulturist  should 
especially  select  a  few  early  and  a  few  late  sorts,  and, 
by  properly  disposing  the  bushes  in  various  situations 
in  his  garden,  he  may  prolong  the  fruit  season  by  seve- 
ral Weeks.  The  same  object  may  be  further  promoted 
by  defending  the  fruit  of  the  late  sorts  from  the  attacks 
of  wasps,  which  is  accomplished  by  surrounding  the 
bushes  with  bunting  .(the  thin  stuff"  of  which  ships'  flags 
are  often  made)  ;  and  also  by  retarding  the  ripening  of 


RASPBEEEY.  159 

the  fruit,  which  is  done  by  covering  up  the  bushes  with 
bast-mats.  This  last  contrivance,  however,  answers  bet- 
ter with  currants  than  with  gooseberries. 

■  The  gooseberry-bush  affects  a  loose  rich  soil,  which 
readily  imbibes  but  does  not  retain  much  moisture. 
Gooseberries,  like  currants,  may  be  grown  in  lines  or 
compartments.  They  are  propagated  by  cuttings,  and 
may  be  transplanted,  in  open  weather,  during  any  of 
the  winter  months.  They  are  trained  with  single  stems, 
from  six  inches  to  a  foot  high ;  and  all  suckers,  which 
are  apt  to  spring  up  from  the  roots,  should  be  carefully 
removed.  Formerly  it  was  the  practice  in  Scotland  to 
spur  all  the  annual  wood ;  but  now  the  black  currant 
system  of  pruning  is  more  generally  and  advantageous- 
ly followed.  The  ground  on  which  the  bushes  stand  is 
carefully  digged  once  a  year  ;  and  manure,  when  neces- 
sary, is  at  the  same  time  added.  No  farther  culture  is 
requisite  than  keeping  down  weeds,  and  preventing  the 
extensive  ravages  of  caterpillars.  This  last  object  is 
best  attained  by  employing  persons  (women  and  chil- 
dren) to  pick  them  off  on  their  first  appearance.  Goose- 
berry plants  are  sometimes  trained  on  walls  or  espa- 
liers, to  accelerate  the  ripening,  or  increase  the  size  of 
the  fruit. 

The  Raspberry  {liuhus  Idceus)  is,  like  the  preceding 
small  fruits,  a  native  of  Great  Britain.  The  principal 
varieties  are : — 

Red  Antwerp.  Eed  Globe. 

Yellow  Antwerp.  Cornish. 

Barnet.  Williams'  Double  Bearing. 

Of  these,  the  first  two  have  never  been   surpassed,  and 
are  generally  sufficient  for  all  common  purposes.     Rasp- 


lt)0  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

berries  are  propagated  from  suckers,  which  are  planted 
in  rows  five  or  six  feet  apart,  and  at  three  feet  from 
each  other  in  the  rows.  The  fruit  is  produced  on  small 
branches  which  proceed  from  the  shoots  of  the  former 
year.  Every  year  they  throw  up  a  number  of  shoots  or 
canes  from  the  root,  which  bear  fruit  the  subsequent 
year,  and  then  decay.  In  dressing  the  plants  in  winter, 
all  the  decayed  stalks  are  cut  away,  and  of  the  young 
canes  only  three  or  four  of  the  strongest  are  left,  which 
are  shortened  about  a  third.  As  the  stalks  are  too  weak 
to  stand  by  themselves,  they  are  sometimes  connected 
together  by  the  points  in  the  manner  of  arches,  so  as  to 
antagonize  and  mutually  support  each  other,  and  some- 
times they  are  attached  to  stakes.  "  Perhaps  the  best 
support  is  obtained  by  fastening  the  points  of  the  shoots 
to  a  slight  horizontal  rail  or  bar  about  four  feet  high, 
and  placed  a  foot  and  a  half  on  the  south  side  of  the 
rows.  By  this  means  the  bearing  shoots  are  djeflected 
from  the  perpendicular  to  the  sunny  side  of  the-  row, 
and  are  not  shaded  by  the  annual  wood.  The  ground 
between  the  rows  should  be  well  digged  in  winter,  and 
kept  clean.  Fresh  plantations  of  raspberries  should  be 
made  every  six  or  seven  years.  The  double-bearing 
varieties,  which  continue 'to  bear  during  autumn,  re- 
quire light  soils  and  warm  situations.  It  may  be  men- 
tioned that  the  crop  of  any  of  the  varieties  may  be  re- 
tarded by  breaking  off  the  points  of  the  bearing  shoots 
at  an  early  period  in  spring;  but,  like  all  other  fruits, 
the  flavor  of  the  raspberry  is  highest  when  it  is  allowgd 
to  ripen  at  its  natural  season. 

Although  several  varieties  of  this  fruHare  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  the  United  States,  some  of. which  are  exceed- 


STRAWBERRY.  IGl 

inglj  fine  flavored,  as,  for  example,  those  abounding  in 
the  northern  states  and  British  provinces,  still  the  best 
cultivated  kinds  have  been  brought  from  Europe.  Ni- 
chol  enumerates  twenty-three  varieties,  among  which 
are  the  American  red  and  black,  the  Long  Island,  the 
Virginia,  the  Ohio  ever-bearing,  and  the  Pennsylvania. 
Some  of  the  American  varieties  may  be  propagated  by 
layers,  so  as  to  produce  fruit  the  second  year.  New 
kinds  of  choice  qualities  from  the  seed  of  the  best  Euro- 
pean, often  hybridized  with  native  American  varieties, 
are  produced  in  the  United  States.  One  of  the  most 
successful  culturists  is  Dr.  Wm.  Brinckle,  of  Philadel- 
phia, who  has  originated  many  kinds  of  the  highest 
merit. 

The  American  Congress  of  Fruit-growers^  at  its  meet- 
ing in  the  City  of  New  York,  in  1849,  agreed  upon  the 
following  varieties  as  most  worthy  of  cultivation :  The 
Red  Antwerp,  Yellow  Antwerp,  Franconia,  and  Fastolff, 
and  as  giving  promise  of  being  worthy  to  add  to  the 
list  of  Knevett's  giant. 

The  Straw^berry  {Frag aria)  belongs  to  the  same  na- 
tural family  as  the  raspberry.  Amongst  the  numerous 
kinds  cultivated  in  English  gardens,  botanists  have  dis- 
tinguished several  species,hvit  as  these  distinctions  imply 
no  difference  in  culture,  and  as  it  is  difficult  to  trace 
them  amid  the  sportings  of  the  hybrids,  we  shall  not 
pretend  to  enumerate  them.  Scarcely  any  plant  more 
readily  slides  into  seminal  varieties;  and,  indeed,  till 
lately,  in  consequence  of  the  irregular  prevalence  of 
local  names,  their  whole  nomenclature  was  a  chaos  of 
confusion.  At  the  instance  of  the  Horticultural  Society 
of  London,  i\h'.  Barnet  undertook  a  revision  of  the  sub- 


162  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

ject;  and,  with  great  acuteness  and  discrimination,  has 
removed  much  ambiguity,  and  finally  settled  the  names 
of  the  existing  varieties.  His  paper,  which  is  well  worth 
the'  perusal  of  every  student  of  horticulture,  is  in  the 
sixth  volume  of  the  London  Transactions.  In  the  se- 
cond edition  of  the  Catalogue  of  the  London  Horticul- 
tural Society,  no  fewer  than  112  varieties  are  enu- 
merated. But  the  following  are  sufficient,  and  an  aste- 
risk is  prefixed  to  those  most  worthy  of  cultivation  in 
small  gardens : — 

*  Old  Scarlet  or  Virginian.  Swainstone  Seedling. 

*  Grove  End  Scarlet.  *  Old  Pine  or  Carolina. 
:^  Keen's  Seedling.  Wilmot's  Superb. 

*  ■  Roseberry.  Myatt's  Pine. 

Downton.  Myatt's  British  Queen. 

^  Knevett's.  ^  Large  Flat  Ilautbois. 

*  Elton.  *  Prolific  Ilautbois. 
American  Scarlet.  *  Alpine,  red  and  white. 
Coul  Late  Scarlet.  *  Wood,  red  and  white. 

The  Elton  and  Keen's  Seedling  excel  in  size  and 
beauty;  Myatt's  Pine  in  delicious  flavor,  but  the  fruit 
of  this  last  is  produced  sparingly. 

The  strawberry  plant  is  propagated  either  from  run- 
ners or  from  seed.  When  runners  are  employed,  they 
are  sometimes  planted  in  autumn,  or  rather  as  soon  as 
they  have  struck  root  into  the  ground.  Most  commonly, 
however,  they  are  permitted  to  remain  unseparated 
from  the  parent  plants  till  spring;  a  practice  not  to  be 
commended,  for  it  debilitates  the  old  plants,  and  pre- 
vents the  earth  between  the  rows  from  being  stirred 
and  cleaned :  deep  digging  between  rows  is  calculated 
to  destroy  the  roots,  and  ought  to  be  avoided.  As, 
upon   the  whole,  spring   planting   seems  preferable,  it 


STRAWBERRY.  163 

would  perhaps  be  well  to  adopt  the  practice  of  some 
gardeners,  who  are  at  pains  to  prick  out  the  offsets, 
as  soon  as  thej  are  rooted  into  beds  of  rich  soil,  from 
which  they  are  transplanted  into  their  proper  places 
early  in  the  spring. 

The  desire  of  new  varieties  has  encouraged  the  prac- 
tice of  propagating  by  seed;  and  Keen,  Knevett,  Myatt, 
and  others,  have  been  extremely  successful.  Mr.  Knight 
having  observed  that  the  young  runners  of  the  alpine 
strawberry  flower  and  ripen  fruit  the  first  year,  was  led 
to  adopt  this  mode  of  reproduction,  and  followed  it  with 
the  happiest  success.  Early  in  spring  he  sowed  the 
seed  in  flower-pots,  which  were  put  into  a  hotbed ;  and 
as  soon  as  the  plants  attained  a  suflScierit  size,  they  were 
transplanted  into  the  open  ground.  They  began  to 
blossom  soon  after  midsummer,  and  continued  to  produce 
fruit  till  interrupted  by  frost.  Thus  Mr.  Knight  is 
inxjlined  to  treat  the  alpine  strawberry  as  an  annual 
plant.  The  same  practice  has  been  recommended  in 
France  by  M.  Morel  de  Yind^  {Cal.  Sort.  Mem.,  vol. 
iii.);  but  he  very  properly  preserves  his  plants  for 
three  years,  sowing  every  year  a  successional  crop.  Mr. 
Keen  has  applied  this  method  of  culture  to  the  wood 
strawberry ;  and  we  doubt  not  but  it  might  be  extended 
with  beneficial  eff"ects  to  the  Old  Scarlet  and  others  of 
the  less  artificial  varieties. 

A  clayey  soil  or  strong  loam  is  considered  as  best 
suited  to  strawberry-plants.  On  a  sandy  or  very  light 
soil  they  seldom  succeed;  and  in  very  close  situations, 
and  over-rich  ground,  most  varieties  produce  little  else 
than  leaves.  Before  planting,  the  ground  should  be 
manured  and  trenched,  or  digged  over  deeply,  and  when 
stifl*  and  compact  it  should  be  very  carefully  worked. 


164  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Keen,  and  others  in  the  neighborhood  of  London,  grow 
their  strawberries  in  beds,  three  rows  in  each,  with  an 
alley  between  them.  The  market-gardeners  of  Edin- 
burgh, who,  in  the  culture  of  this  fruit,  are  perhaps  not 
excelled  by  any,  plant  in  rows  two  feet  asunder,  and  from 
a  foot  to  fifteen  inches  in  the  rows.  When  the  weather 
is  dry,  the  young  plants  are  watered  till  they  be  well 
established.  As  little  fruit  is  produced  the  first  year, 
a  line  of  carrots,  onions,  or  other  vegetables,  is  often 
sown  between  the  rows  for  one  season.  In  May  the 
runners  are  cut  off,  with  the  view  of  promoting  the 
swelling  of  the  fruit.  During  dry  weather,  careful 
cultivators  water  their  plants  while  in  flower,  and  par- 
ticularly after  the  fruit  is  set,  and  occasionally  till  it 
begin  to  color.  The  old  practice,  from  which  the 
fruit  derives  its  name,  of  laying  straw  between  the 
rows  to  prevent  the  soiling  of  the  fruit,  has  been  re- 
cently revived;  and  where  there  are  dressed  lawns,  the 
short  cut  grass  may  be  employed  for  the  same  purpose. 
As  soon  as  the  fruit  season  is  over,  the  runners  are 
again  removed ;  the  straw  or  grass  is  taken  away,  and 
the  ground  hoed  and  raked.  In  October  the  runners, 
and  also  the  reclining,  but  not  the  erect,  leaves,  are  cut 
away,  and  the  surface  of  the  earth  is  stirred  with  a  three- 
pronged  fork,  great  care  being  taken  not  to  injure  the 
roots.  Strawberries  may  be  raised  from  the  same 
ground  for  an  indefinite  space  of  time,  but  the  plants 
should  be  renewed  every  third  or  fourth  year.  In  the 
garden  they  are  generally  put  in  a  quarter  by  them- 
selves, and  it  should"  be  one  fully  exposed  to  the  sun 
and  air.  The  alpine  and  wood  varieties  may  be  placed 
in  situations  rather  moist  and  shady,  as  edgings  in 
the  slips  or  in  rows  behind  walls  and  hedges,  in  which 


STRAWBERRY.  165 

situations  they  succeed  perfectly  well,  and  produce 
fruit  late  in  the  season. 

If  strawberries  be  planted  on  a  good  border,  in  rows 
a  yard  asunder,  a  crop  of  early  peas  may  be  taken  be- 
tween the  rows;  and  the  peas  may  be  succeeded  by 
Cape  broccoli,  which  seems  not  only  not  to  be  hurt  by 
the  excretion  from  the  roots  of  the  peas,  but  to  remove 
any  noxious  quality  thus  imparted  to  the  soil.  The 
regular  manuring  for  these  crops  keeps  the  strawberries 
in  good  vigor.  The  bed  should  not  occupy  the  same 
ground  more  than  three  or  four  consecutive  seasons. 

Strawberries  hav^  always  been  a  favorite  dessert 
fruit.  They  likewise  form  an  excellent  preserve  ;  and 
from  their  freedom  from  excess  of  acid  seem  well 
adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  home  wine.  To  this 
purpose  they  have  been  only  partially  employed  ;  but 
the  samples  of  strawberry  wine  which  we  have  tasted 
had  more  of  the  vinous  flavor  than  any  other  of  our 
domestic  wines.  The  culture  of  strawberries  is  the 
most  lucrative  part  of  the  employment  of  the  market- 
gardener,  at  least  near  large  towns.  In  England  it  is 
not  uncommon  for  him  to  realize  a  clear  profit  of  .£25 
or  X35,  or  even  more,  per  imperial  acre  of  strawberry 
ground.  The  greater  the  diligence  and  assiduity  of 
the  cultivator,  the  greater  will  be  his  returns.  It  is  a 
common  and  just  remark,  that  too  little  labor  is,  in 
general,  expended  upon  the  strawberry,  and  by  the 
ignorant  and  unskilful  gardener  least  of  all. 

In  some  places,  a  strawberry  bank  is  formed  in  this 
■way :  A  1-idge  of  earth,  consisting  of  rich  loam  if  pos- 
sible, is  formed,  about  six  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and 
about  five  feet  high  in  the  centre,  running  nearly  from 
north  to  south.  Along  the  centre  of  the  ridge  a  nar- 
15 


166  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

row  channel  is  formed,  into  which  water  may  be  poured, 
so  as  to  percolate  the  sides.  Along  the  sloping  sides 
bricks  are  placed  like  the  steps  of  a  stair,  and  in  the 
interstices,  between  the  bricks,  strawberry'  plants  are 
inserted.  In  this  way  the  plants  have  the  fullest  ad- 
vantage of  sunshine,  the  fruit  is  kept  perfectly  clean, 
and  its  early  maturity  is  promoted  by  the  reflected  heat 
of  the  bricks. 

Strawberries  are  extensively  forced.  The  Old  Scar- 
let, Old  Pine,  Roseberry,  Grove  End,  and  Keen's 
Seedling,  are  found  suitable  for  this  purpose.  The  latter 
has  the  advantage  of  being  early,  prolific,  and  yielding 
large  fruit ;  but  the  Old  Scarlet  and  the  Old  Pine  have 
the  superiority  in  flavor.  The  plants  must  be  in  a 
course  of  preparation  for  nearly  a  year  before  fruit  can 
be  expected.  They  are  potted  in  April  with  rich  soil, 
two  or  three  young  plants  being  put  into  a  pot  of  eight 
or  ten  inches  in  diameter.  During  summer  they  are 
kept  in  a  warm  situation  and  encouraged  to  grow,  flow- 
ers and  runners  being  carefully  picked  off".  In  the  be- 
ginning of  winter  they  are  sheltered  in  cold  frames,  and 
they  are  afterwards  successively  placed  into  hotbeds  or 
forcing-houses,  so  as  to  keep  up  a  succession  of  fruiting 
plants.  The  air  should  be  kept  moist,  and  they  must 
be  plentifully  supplied  with  water.  Where  the  means 
are  abundant,  a  moderate  supply  of  ripe  fruit  may  thus 
be  maintained  during  the  late  winter  and  the  spring 
months.  Some  cultivators  provide  new  plants  for  forc- 
ing every  year.  But  the  same  plants  may  be  forced 
for  several  successive  years,  provided  they  be  shifted  in 
August,  and,  at  the  time  of  repotting,  the  black  torpid 
roots  be  cut  off',  leaving  only  those  of  a  paler  color,  and 
which  are  connected  with  the  new  shoots  or  off'sets. 


STRAWBERRY.  167 

At  the  meeting  in  1849  of  the  National  Congress  of 
Fruit-growers,  the  following  varieties  were  recomraend- 
ed  as  the  very  best  for  culture,  namely :  Large  Early 
Scarlet,  Hovey's  Seedling,  Boston  Pine ;  and,  as  giving 
promise  of  being  worthy  to  be  added  to  the  list,  Burr's 
New  Pine,  and  Jenney's  Seedling. 

Mr.  Hovey  raised  the  Seedling  which  goes  by  his 
name,  and  the  celebrated  Boston  Pine,  from  the  same 
lot  of  seed.  He  states  that  it  is  the  character  of  his 
seedling,  as  it  is  of  the  Early  Yirginia  and  some  other 
varieties  of  the  strawberry,  rarely  to  produce  more  than 
three  or  four  trusses  of  fruit  to  each  root,  so  that  they 
require  to  be  grown  thickly  in  beds  to  produce  good 
crops.  This,  however,  was  not  generally-ihe  case  with 
the  Boston  Pine,  the  tendency  of  which  is  to  produce 
ten  or  twelve  trusses  of  fruit  to  each  root,  so  that  one 
hundred  and- fifty  berries  had  been  counted  on  a  single 
plant.  In  consequence  of  this  characteristic,  when  the 
vines  occupy  all  the  ground,  there  is  a  deficiency  of 
nourishment  and  the  berries  do  not  fill  up.  Hence  many 
failures  had  occurred  in  the  cultivation  of  this  variety, 
which  required  more  room  than  other  kinds;  when  grown 
in  rows  with  a  foot  or  more  space  left  between,  and  that 
space  well  manured,  the  crop  was  most  abundant. 
When  planted  in  hills,  one  or  more  feet  apart  each  way, 
and  one  or  more  plants  in  'each  place,  the  runners  could 
be  kept  clipped  ofi",  and  the  ground  tilled  with  either  the 
hoe,  plough  or  cultivator. 

Strawberry 'plants  are  commonly  designated  as  male 
arid  female,  and  it  is  of  great  importance  to  understand 
haw  to  distinguish  these  apart,  since  a  bed  with  too 
large  a  proportion  of  male  plants  will  prove  very  unpro- 
ductive.    The  distinction  can  be   readily  made  when  in 


168  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

flower,  the  blossoms  of  the  femules  having  an  entirely 
green  centre,  whilst  those  that  exhibit  a  great  many  yel- 
low stamens  represent  the  male,  or  barren  plants.  Such 
flowers  as  have  only  a  portion  of  stamens  around  the 
base  of  the  green  conical  centre  of  the  flower,  are  term- 
ed staminate  or  perfect  blossoms. 

In  the  United  States,  strawberry  plants  are  set  out 
either  in  the  spring  months  of  March  and  April,  or  in 
the  months  of  August  and  September.  A  good  size  for 
beds  is  four  feet  wide  with  three  rows  of  plants  about 
fifteen  inches  apart.  The  beds  may  have  walks  two  or 
two  and  a  half  feet  wide  for  the  workers  or  pickers  to 
move  in. 

After  the  middle  of  July,  the  runners  not  required  to 
produce  fresh  plants  are  to  be  clipped  off  or  otherwise 
destroyed.  The  beds  should  be  hoed  so  that  the  soil 
may  be  kept  open,  and  in  light  soils  a  few  inches  of  well- 
rotted  manure  should  be  dug  in  between  the  rows  every 
fall.  Where  exposed  to  severe  cold,  some  straw  or  rough 
litter  should  be  lightly  spread  over  the  beds  in  winter. 
In  dry  seasons,  after  the  plants  have  done  blooming,  it 
will  generally  be  of  great  service  to  the  fruit  to  have  the 
beds  occasionally  watered  with  lueak  liquid  mai:)ure  of 
some  kind,  either  the  drainings  from  the  cattle  yard  or 
other  fertilizing  liquid.  A  solution  of  guano,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  lb.  to  six  or  eight  gallons  of  water,  will 
answer  very  well.  Manure  must  generally  be  given  in 
some  way  or  other  if  very  large  fruit  is  wanted.  As 
the  beds  will  not  generally  produce  well  longer  than 
three  or  four  years,  it  is  requisite  to  have  a  succession 
of  new  ones  coming  on  in  other  places.  It  is  recom- 
mended to  set  out  the  female  plants,  with  the  exception 
of  every  fifth  row,  which  is  to  consist  of  males.     The 


CRANBERRY.  169 

clean  straw  or  tan  usually  placed  about  the  plants  to 
keep  the  fruit  from  the  ground  or  sand,  should  be  put 
round  in  early  spring  before  the  blooming. 

A  deep,  light  rich  loam  is  the  best  soil  for  the  straw- 
berry, and  where  nature  has  not  placed  this  at  the  con- 
venience of  the  planter,  he  should  have  recourse  to 
trenching.  The  fruit  season  may  be  greatly  prolonged 
by  having  beds  in  different  exposures  ;  those  fronting 
the  south-east  will  ripen  long  before  those  towards  the 
north-west.  There  must  be  no  trees  or  other  objects  to 
shade  the  beds. 

Cranberry. — The  cultm-e  of  the  American  Cranber- 
ry {Oxycoccus  macrocarpus)  was  introduced  by  the  late 
Sir  Joseph  Banks,  and  deserves  particular  notice,  for  it 
is  altogether  overlooked  by  Lindley  and  other  horticul- 
tural writers.  The  plant  is  distinguished  by  the  smooth- 
ness of  its  stems,  and  the  largeness  of  its  fruit.  It 
grows  freely,  and  produces  its  fruit  readily  in.  any  damp 
situation  ;  but  where  there  is  a  pond,  it  may  be  culti- 
vated with  the  greater  success.  On  the  margin  of  the 
pond  stakes  are  driven  in  a  short  way  within  the  water 
line ;  boards  are  so  placed  against  these  as  to  prevent 
the  soil  of  the  cranberry-bed  from  falling  into  the  water. 
A  layer  of  small  stones  is  deposited  in  the  bottom,  and 
over  these  peat  or  bog  earth,  mixed  with  sand,  to  the 
extent  of  about  three  or  four  inches  above,  and  half  a 
foot  below  the  usual  surface  of  the  water.  Plants  of  the 
American  cranberry  placed  on  this  bed  soon  cover  the 
whole  surface  with  a  dense  matting  of  trailing  shoots. 
There  is  a  variety  which  is  very  shy  in  yielding  its  fruit, 
and  this  should,  of  course,  bei-  avoided.  If  the  prolific 
variety  be  employed,  from  a  bed  thirty  or  forty  feet  in 


170  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

length,  by  five  or  six  in  breadth,  a  quantity  of  berries 
may  be  procured  sufficient  for  the  supply  of  a  family 
throughout  the  year.  The  fruit  is  easily  preserved  in 
bottles.  The  native  cranberry  {Oxycoceus  palustris) 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner,  and  in  some  places 
is  very  successfully  cultivated.  At  Culzean  Castle,  the 
seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Ailsa,  in  Ayrshire,  I  found  (1820) 
the  cranberry  ground  surrounded  by  a  ditch,  the  water 
of  which  was  made  to  filter  through  among  stones  and 
stakes  to  the  interior,  so  as  to  keep  the  cranberry  plants 
constantly  supplied  with  moisture.  In  the  same  garden 
a  second  compartment  was  dedicated  to  small  fruits  of 
this  class,  having  in  the  centre  a  rocli-work  planted  with 
whortleberries  (  Vaccinium  vitis-iddea),  and  around  the 
rock-work  beds  of  American  Cranberry,  of  Scottish 
Cranberry,  and  of  Crowberry  {Umpetrum  nigrum),  also 
native. 

The  following  plants  produce  fruit  in  English  gardens, 
some  of  them  abundantly  in  a  wild  state,  others  spar- 
ingly ;  but  they  can  scarcely  be  said  to  come  within  the 
province  of  Horticulture :  Berber  is  vulg.aris,  the  Bar- 
berry ;  Smnhucus  nigra,  the  Elder ;  Primus  sjyinosa, 
the  Sloe ;  P.  insititia,  the  Bullacc ;  and  Rhuhus  Cha- 
maemorus,  the  Cloudberry. 


KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

In  this  department  those  plants  are  cultivated  which, 
after  being  subjected  to  various  culinary  processes,  are 
used  at  the  dinner-table  as  articles  of  food.  We  shall 
class  them  in  groups,  enumerating  the  kinds  nearly  in 


THE  CABBAGE.  171 

the  order  of  their  importance,  each,  for  the  sake  of  pre- 
cision, being  accompanied  by  its  botanical  name. 

Cahhage  Tribe, 

The  Brassica  oleracea,  Linn.,  is  a  plant  indigenous 
to  the  rocky  shores  of  Great  Britain,  but  no  one,  seeing 
it  waving  its  foliage  in  its  native  habitat,  could  possibly 
anticipate  that  it  would  ever  appear  in  our  gardens,  dis- 
guised as  the  ponderous  drumhead  or  sugar-loaf  cabbage, 
or  on  our  tables  as  the  delicate  cauliflower  and  broccoli. 
The  cultivated  varieties  are  numerous;  but  the  follow- 
ing are  the  most  important. 

Common  White  Cabbage;  the  leaves  gathering  into 
a  close  head.  The  economical  uses  of  this  vegetable 
are  well  known.  Its  principal  subvarieties  are  the 
following : 

Early  Dwarf  or  Battersea.  Scotch  Gray. 

Early  York.  Vanack,  « 

Large  York.  Couve  Troncliuda. 

Large  Sugar-loaf.  Pomeranian. 

Drumhead. 

The  first  two  are  well  adapted  for  early  crops;  the 
others  for  use  in  the  autumn  and  winter.  There  is  a 
dwarfish  variety  of  the  Tronchuda,  sometimes  called 
the  Portugal  Cabbage,  the  leaf-stalk  and  midribs  of  the 
leaves  of  which  are  succulent,  crisp,  and  white,  and 
equal  in  flavor  to  sea-kale. 

The  Cabbage  is  propagated  from  seed,  which  may  be 
sown  in  beds  faur  feet  wide,,  and  covered  over  with  a 
thin  layer  of  earth.  The  proper  seasons  in  England 
for  this  operation  are  the  middle  of  August,  the  be- 
ginning of  March,  and  midsummer.  By  observing  these 
times,  and    employing    different  sorts,   the   succession 


172  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

may  be  kept  up  throughout  the  year.  For  the  early 
spring  crops,  the  late-sown  plants  are  in  October  trans- 
ferred from  the  seed-bed  to  some  open  and  Avell-manured 
ground,  where  they  are  arranged  in  rows  two  feet 
asunder.  The  principal  supply  may  be  put  out  in 
February,  affording  the  larger  sorts  more  width  between 
the  rows.  The  crops  sown  in  spring  are  planted  out 
in  May  and  June.  For  subsequent  culture,  all  that  is 
necessary  is  to  keep  the  ground  clear  of  weeds,  and  to 
draw  up  the  soil  about  the  stems.  In  some  situations 
watering  in  summer  is  beneficial. 

In  many  places  on  the  continent  of  Europe,  sourcrout 
is  prepared  by  shredding  down  the  heads  in  autumn,  and 
placing  in  a  cask  alternate  layers  of  the  cabbage  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  very  little  salad  oil ;  and  then  com- 
pressing the  whole. 

The  cabbages  grown  late  in  autumn  and  in  the  begin- 
ning, of  winter  are  denominated  Coleiuorts,  from  the 
name  of  a  kindred  vegetable  no  longer  cultivated.  The 
object  is  to  have  them  with  open  or  slightly- closed 
hearts.  Two  sowings  are  made,  in  the  middle  of  June 
and  in  July,  and  the  seedlings,  when  they  acquire  suf- 
ficient strength,  are  planted  out  in  lines,  a  foot  or 
fifteen  inches  asunder,  and  eight  or  ten  inches  apart  in 
the  rows. 

The  Red  Cabbage^  of  which  the  Dutch  or  large  red 
is  the  most  common  variety,  is  much  used  for  pickling. 
It  is  sown  along  with  the  white  varieties  in  August  and 
in  spring,  and  the  culture  is  in  every  respect  the  same. 

The  Savoy.  This  variety,  like  the  preceding,  forms 
into  a  close  head,  but  is  distinguished  by  the  wrinkling 
of  its  leaves.  It -is  a  very  useful  vegetable  during  the 
winter  months,  being  highly  relished  by  most  people. 


THE  CABBAGE.  173 

The  principal  subvarieties  are  the  Early  Green,  the 
Dwarf,  the  Yellow,  and  the  Winter  or  large  Late  Green, 
of  each  of  which  there  are  various  forms.  The  seed  is 
sown  in  autumn  and  in  the  end  of  spring ;  and  two 
plantings  may  take  place  in  April,  and  in  June  or  July. 

Brussels  Sprouts.  This  vegetable  is  allied  to  the 
foregoing,  but  does  not  close  or  cabbage.  From  the 
axillae  of  the  stem-leaves  proceed  little  rosettes  or 
sprouts,  which  resemble  savoy  cabbages  in  miniature, 
and  form  a  very  delicate  morsel.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  in  spring,  and  the  seedlings  planted  out  before 
midsummer,  during  showery  w^eather.  In  October  the 
plants  should  have  additional  earth  drawn  to  their 
roots,  to  firm  them,  and  save  them  from  being  destroyed 
by  frost.  The  earliest  sprouts  become  fit  for  use  in 
November,  and  they  continue  good,  or  even  improving 
in  quality,  till  the  month  of  March  following.  Mr.  Van 
Mons,  of  Brussels  mentions  {Lond.  Hortic.  Mem.,  vol. 
iii.),  that  by  successive  sowings  the  sprouts  are  there 
obtained  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  In  spring, 
when  the  plants  have  a  tendency  to  run  to  flower,  their 
growth  is  checked  by  lifting  them,  and  replanting  them 
in  a  slanting  direction,  in  a  cool,  shady  situation. 

Open  Kale  or  Borecole.  The  principal  subvarie- 
ties are : 

German  Greens,  or  Curlics,         Jerusalem  Kale,  or  Eagged 

green,  yellow,  and  red.  Jack. 

Scotch  Kale,  green  and  purple.  Woburn  Kale. 
Delaware  Greens.  Jersey  Kale. 

Buda,  or  Russian  Kale. 

Of  these  the  first  two  are  considered  the  most  valua- 
ble, and  are  the  sorts  chiefly  cultivated  in  England. 
The   seed  is   sown  at  various  times  from  February  to 


174  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

May,  and  the  seedlings  are  planted  out  in  moist  weather 
during  summer,  in  rows  two  feet  asunder.  The  Buda 
Kale  is  sown  in  May,  planted  out  in  September,  and, 
being  hardy,  affords  a  supply  in  the  following  spring. 
The  Woburn  kale,  being  nearly  a  perennial,  may  readily 
be  propagated  by  cuttings,  six  inches  long,  in  any  of 
the  spring  months. 

Of  the  Turnip-Rooted  Cabbage,  or  Khol-rtihe,  there 
are  two  kinds,  one  swelling  above  ground  (Chou-rave), 
the  other  in  it  (Chou-navet).  There  is  nothing  pecu- 
liar in  the  culture,  unless  that,  in  the  case  of  the  first 
mentioned,  the  earth  should  not  be  drawn  so  high  as  to 
cover  the  globular  part  of  the  stem,  which  is  the  part 
used.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  beginning  of  June, 
and  the  seedlings  transplanted  in  July;  the  vegetable 
is  thus  fit  for  use  at  the  approach  of  winter.  Of  the 
Chou-rave  the  French  have  a  cut-leaved  variety,  which 
is  considered  as  rather  earlier  than  the  common  sort. 

Cauliflower.  This  is  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the 
flower-buds,  which  form  a  large,  dense  cluster  or  head, 
and  afford  one  of  the  most  delicate  products  of  the 
kitchen  garden.  There  are  three  varieties,  the  Early, 
the  Late,  and  the  Reddish-stalked ;  but  these  seem  to 
present  scarcely  any  well-marked  distinction;  the  earli- 
ness  or  lateness  depending  on  the  time  of  sowing.  Of 
late  a  sort  called  the  Large  Asiatic  has  come  much  into 
use. 

The  sowing,  for  the  first  or  spring  crop,  is  made  in 
the  latter  half  of  the  month  of  August ;  and,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  London,  the  growers  adhere  as  nearly 
as  possible  to  the  21st  day.  A  second  sowing  takes 
place  in  February  on  a  slight  hotbed,  and  a  third  in 
April  or  May. 


CAULIFLOWER.  175 

The  cauliflower  being  tender,  the  young  plants  re- 
quire protection  in  winter.  For  this  purpose  they  are 
sometimes  pricked  out  in  a  warm  situation  at  the  foot 
of  a  wall  with  a.  southern  exposure,  where,  in  severe 
weather,  they  are  also  covered  with  hoops  and  mats. 
Perhaps  a  better  method  is  to  plant  them  thickly  in 
the  ground,  under  a  common  hotbed  frame,  and  to 
secure  them  from  cold  by  coverings,  and  from  damp  by 
giving  air  in  mild  weather.*  For  a  very  early  supply, 
it  is  useful  to  be  at  the  pains  of  potting  a  few  scores  of 
plants ;  these  are  to  be  kept  under  glass  during  winter, 
and  plunged  out  in  spring,  defending  them  with  a 
hand-glass,  and  watering  them  when  needful.  Some- 
times, as  in  market-gardens,  patches  of  three  or  four 
plants  are  sheltered  by  hand-glasses  throughout  the 
winter  in  the  open  border.  It  is  advantageous  to  prick 
out  the  spring-sown  plants  into  some  sheltered  place, 
before  they  be  finally  transplanted  and  committed  to 
the  open  ground  in  May.  The  later  crop,  the  trans- 
plantafion  of  which  may  take  place  at  various  times, 
is  treated  like  early  cabbages.  Cauliflower  succeeds 
best  in  a  rich  soil  and  warm  situation.     After  planting, 

*  During  the  severe  and  protracted  snow-storm  of  1838,  Mr. 
Robert  Miller,  market-gardener  at  Gorgie,  was  completely  suc- 
cessful in  preserving  his  cauliflower  plants  in  the  open  border, 
by  the  simple  expedient  of  heaping  snow  over  them  to  the  depth 
of  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet.  Occasional  slight  thawings  were 
followed  by  intense  frosts,  when  the  cold  was  from  20°  even  to 
10°  Fahr.  But  the  only  effect  was  the  glazing  of  the  surface  of 
the  snow  with  a  thin  coat  of  ice :  the  plants  remained  imbedded 
below  at  an  invariable  temperature  of  32°,  which  they  could  well 
enough  sustain,  and  they  ran  no  risk  from  the  expanding  effects 
of  frcezin<r. 


176  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

all  that  is  necessary  is  to  hoe  the  ground  and  draw  up 
the  soil  about  the  roots. 

It  is  found  that  this  vegetable,  being  induced  to  form 
its  large  and  crowded  clusters  of  flower-buds  in  the  au- 
tumn, may  be  kept  in  perfection  over  winter.  Cauli- 
flowers which  have  been  planted  out  in  July  will  be 
nearly  ready  for  use  in  October.  Towards  the  end  of 
that  month,  the  most  compact  and  best  shaped  are 
selected  and  lifted  carefully  with  the  spade,  keeping  a 
ball  of  earth  attached  to  the  roots.  Some  of  the  large 
outside  leaves  are  removed,  in  order  that  the  plants 
may  occupy  less  room,  and,  at  the  same  time,  any 
points  of  leaves  that  immediately  overhang  the  flower 
are  cut  off.  Where  there  are  peach-houses  or  vineries, 
the  plants  may  be  arranged  in  the  borders  of  these, 
pretty  closely  together,  but  without  touching.  Or  they 
may  be  placed  in  the  same  manner  in  hotbed  frames. 
In  mild,  dry  weather  the  glass-frames  are  drawn  off, 
but  they  are  kept  close  in  rain;  and  in  severe  frost  they 
are  thickly  covered  with  mats.  In  this  way  cauliflower 
may  be  kept  in  a  very  good  state  for  several  months. 

Broccoli  has  a  close  afiinity  to  cauliflower,  being 
like  it  of  Italian  origin,  and  difl'ering  chiefly  in  the  greater 
hardiness  of  its  constitution.  The  sub  varieties  are  nume- 
rous, and  exceedingly  diversifled.  The  following  are 
those  which  are  most  in  repute  at  present.  The  first 
five  produce  their  heads  in  autumn,  the  others  in 
spring  : — 

Early  purple  Cape.  Sulphur-colored 

Grange's  Early,  or  Gilles-  Late  White, 

pie's  Broccoli.  Late  Purple. 

Early  Purple.  Knight's  Protecting. 

Early  AVhite.  Edinburgh  AVhite. 


BROCCOLI.  177 

Of  the  autumnal  sorts  there  should  be  two  sowings,  one 
in  the  middle  of  April,  and  one  in  the  middle  of  May. 
As  the  plants  acquire  strength  thej  are  shifted  into  the 
open  ground,  where  they  are  placed  in  lines  tAvo  feet 
apart.  The  cape  varieties  are  of  great  excellence,  being 
of  a  delicious  flavor  when  dressed ;  but,  on  account  of 
the  plants  being  apt  to  start  into  flower,  their  cultiva- 
tion has  in  many  places  been  neglected.  With  proper 
management,  however,  this  tendency  may  be  overruled. 
The  first  sowing  may  be  made  on  any  border  of  light 
soil,  scattering- the  seed  very  sparingly.  In  about  a 
month  the  plants  may  be  transferred  directly  into  a 
quarter  consisting  of  sandy  loam,  well  enriched  with 
rotten  dung.  The  greater  part  of  the  second  crop 
should  be  planted  in  pots,  likewise  directly  from  the 
seed-bed.  These  plants  are  to  be  sunk  in  the  open 
ground  till  the  heads  be  formed  ;  and  in  the  end  of  No- 
vember they  are  to  be  placed  under  a  glass  frame,  where 
very  good  broccoli  may  be  produced  during  the  severest 
weather  of  winter.  Mr.  Ronalds  of  Brentford  recoba- 
mends  that  the  Early  White,  which  is  also  a  desirable 
sort,  should  be  sown  on  a  hotbed,  and  treated  like  the 
secondary  crop  of  cauliflower. 

The  spring  varieties  are  extremely  valuable,  as  they 
come  into  use  at  a  season  when  the  finer  vegetables  are 
scarce.  They  are  sown  in  the  middle  of  March  or  the 
beginning  of  April,  and  alford  a  supply  from  March  to 
May  of  the  following  year.  The  Late  White  (some- 
times called  Dwarf  Tartarian)  bears  a  great  resemblance 
to  cauliflower,  and  often  passes  for  it. 

To  obtain  seed  of  the  Brassica  tribe,  the  most  ge- 
nuine and  characteristic  specimens  of  the  different  va- 
rieties should  be  selected  in  autumn,  in  such  a  state  of 
16 


178  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

advancement  as  that  they  will  flower  as  early  as  possi- 
ble in  the  following  spring.  They  should  be  planted  in 
an  open  situation,  and  kept  as  far  distant  from  other 
kinds  of  the  same  tribe  as  may  be.  As  they  are  very 
liable  to  cross  or  hybridize,  it  is^  perhaps  better,  except 
in  the  case  of  some  favorite  variety,  to  procure  sup- 
plies from  a  respectable  seedsman,  from  whom  they  are 
almost  uniformly  to  be  had  genuine,  the  extensive  seed- 
growers  being  at  great  pains  to  prevent  intermixture 
of  crops. 

Grange's  Early  White,  and  the  Early  Purple  Cape, 
are  the  kinds  best  adapted  to  the  climate  of  the  Middle 
States.  The  Dwarf  Tartarian,  White  Malta,  and  Late 
White,  are  fine  sorts  for  situations  south  of  Virginia, 
where  they  may  remain  out  all  winter.  But  to  be  able 
to  have  them  during  winter  in  the  Middle  and  Northern 
States,  it  is  necessary,  before  the  occurrence  of  a  severe 
frost,  to  remove  them  from  the  garden,  by  careful  lift- 
ing, and  replant  under  a  shed  or  in  a  cellar. 

Leguminous  Plcmts. 

Of  the  Pea  [Pisum  sativum)  there  are  two  principal 
varieties  cultivated  in  England,  the  Field  or  Gray  Hog 
Pea,  and  the  Garden  Pea.  The  latter  alone  requires 
our  attention  here.     Its  chief  subvarieties  are — 

Early  Frame.  Auv^rgne. 

Early  Charlton.  Knight's  Tall  Marrowfat. 

EarJy  White  AVarwick.  St.  Heliers. 

Bishop's  Early  Dwarf.  Knight's  Dwarf  Marrowfat. 

Richardson's  Eclipse.  Green  or  Blue  Prussian. 

Spanish  Dwarf.  White  Prussian. 

Groom's  Dwarf  Blue.  Sugar,  Dwarf  and  Tall. 

Tall  Marrowfat.  Bounceval. 


THE  PEAS.  179 

The  first  three  are  suitable  for  early  crops,  and  the 
others  for  successional  supplies.  The  Auvergne,  St. 
Heliers,  and  Groom's  Dwarf  Pea,  have  of  late  risen 
into  repute,  as  being  very  prolific.  In  the  Sugar  Pea, 
of  which  there  are  two  sorts,  the  tall  and  dwarf,  the 
inner  tough,  filmy  lining  of  the  pod  is  absent :  the 
young  legumes  of  these  may  therefore  be  used  like 
kidney-beans,  and  form  an  agreeable  dish.  Richard- 
son's Eclipse  is  early,  very  prolific,  and  remarkable  for 
the  great  length  of  the  pods. 

The  first  crop  of  peas  is  sown  in  England  about  the 
beginning  of  November,  in  front  of  a  south  wall;  and 
these,-  after  they  havei  appeared  above  ground,  are  de- 
fended by  spruce-fir  branches,  or  other  spray,  through- 
out the  winter.  In  January  and  February  other  sowings 
are  made,  and  sometimes  the  seed  is  put  up  into  flower- 
pots and  boxes,  and  the  young  plants  afterwards  plung- 
ed out  in  spring,  either  singly  or  two  or  three  to- 
gether, taking  care  to  keep  a  portion  of  earth  adhering. 
From  the  end  of  February  moderate  sowing  should  be 
made  twice  a  month  till  the  middle  of  August,  thus  en- 
suring a  supply  of  successive  crops,  of  delicate  green 
peas.  For  the  latest  crops,  the  Knight's  Marrowfat 
and  the  Blue  Prussian  are  among  the  best.  Peas  are 
sown  in  rows  from  three  to  five  feet  asunder,  according 
to  the  height  which  the  difterent  sorts  are  known  usu- 
ally to  attain.  As  they  grow  up,  the  earth  is  drawn  to 
the  roots,  and  the  stems  are  supported  with  stakes,  a 
practice  which,  in  a  well-kept  garden,  is  always  advis- 
able, although  it  is  said  that  the  early  varieties,  when 
recumbent,  arrive  sooner  at  maturity.  Groom's  Dwarf, 
through  prolific,  is  so  humble  as  not  to  require  stakes. 
When  germinating,  or  when  just  rising  through    the 


180  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

ground,  peas  are  greedily  devoured  by  sparrows  and 
other  small  birds.  Threads  of  white  worsted  spread 
along  the  lines  of  the  young  peas  frighten  the  depre- 
dators fully  better  than  scarecrows  or  strings  of  fea- 
thers; but  perhaps  the  simplest  and  most  efFectual  re- 
medy is  to  throw  over  the  peas  a  slight  covering  of 
soil,  for  by  the  time  the  young  plants  have  penetrated 
this  they  are  beyond  the  attack  of  the  birds. 

The  early  crops  come  into  use  in  May  and  June, 
and,  by  repeated  sowings,  the  supplies  are  prolonged 
to  the  beginning  of  November.  Peas  grown  late  in 
autumn  are  subject  to  mildew,  to  obviate  which,  Mr. 
Knight  has ,  proposed  the  following  method :  The 
ground  is  dug  over  in  the  usual  way,  and  the  spaces  to  be 
occupied  by  the  future  r9ws  of  peas  are  well  soaked 
with  water.  The  mould  on  each  side  is  then  collected 
so  as  to  form  ridges  seven  or  eight  inches  high,  and 
these  ridges  are  well  watered.  On  these  the  seed  is 
sown  in  single  rows  in  the  beginning  of  June.  If  dry 
weather  at  any  time  set  in,  water  is  supplied  profusely 
once  a  week.  In  this  way,  the  sap  which  it  prepared  in 
the  summer  is  expended  in  the  autumn;  the  plants  con- 
tinue green  and  vigorous,  resisting  mildew,  and  not 
yielding  till  subdued  by  frost. 

In  the  Middle  States,  vfhen  sown  successively  from 
the  last  of  February,to  the  10th  of  May,  crops  of  young 
green  peas  may  be  had  constantly  from  May  to  the  end 
of  July.  About  the  middle  of  August,  peas  may  be 
planted  again,  previous  to  which  it  is  best  to  soak  them 
in  water  for  twenty-four  hours.  Water  the.  rows  before 
planting  if  the  ground  be  dry,  and  watering  the  peas 
whilst  growing  will  tend  to  keep  off  the  mildew,  so  apt  to 


THE  BEAN.  181 

attack  them  in  dry  weather  toAvards  the  close  of  sum- 
mer. 

Of  the  Garden  Bean  {Faha  vulgaris),  amongsl  many 
varieties,  these  may  be  mentioned — 

Marshtvll's  Early  Dwarf.  Green  Long-pod. 

Early  Mazagan.  White-Blossomed  Long-pod. 

Dwarf  Fan,  or  Cluster.  Broad  Windsor,  or  Spanish. 

Royal  Dwarf.  Green  Windsor. 

White  Long-pod,  or  Sandwich.  Toker. 

In  England  the  Mazagan  and  Marshall's  Dwarf  may  be 
sown  in  November,  and  defended  during  winter  in  the 
same  manner  as  early  peas,  but  it  is  more  difficult  to 
preserve  them  from  being  destroyed  by  the  frost.  The 
same  sorts  should  be  sown  again  in  January  and  Feb- 
ruary. In  March,  the. Dwarf  Cluster  and  Long-pods 
may  be  put  in  the  ground  for  a  general  crop,  and  sub- 
sequently the  Windsor  and  the  Toker.  For  a  small 
garden  the  Long-pods  are  most  desirable,  being  the  most 
prolific.  The  White-blossomed  is  a  variety  of  some 
merit,  and  when  the  pods  are  taken  at  an  early  stage, 
they  have  little  of  the  peculiar  bean  flavor,  or  only 
enough  to  render  them  pleasant.  The  Royal  Dwarf  is 
remarkable  for  being  exceedingly  productive.  During 
the  growth  of  the  bean  crop,  all  the  culture  that  is  neces- 
sary is,  that  the  earth  be  drawn  up  about  the  roots. 
Topping  the  plants  is  usually  practiced,  being  found  to 
promote  the  filling  of  the  pods. 

Kidney-Bean. — Under  this  general  title -are  inclrf^ed 

the  common  kidney-bean  {Phaseolus  vulgaris,  Linn.) 
of  many  varieties ;  and  also  the  scarlet  Runner  (P.  mul- 
tijiorus,  WlLiiD).     Kidney-beans  are  the  haricots  of  the 

16* 


182  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

French,  who  enumerate  upwards  of  two  hundred  varie- 
ties.    The  sorts  usually  cultivated  in  England  are — 

Early  YelloAV.  Cream-Colored. 

Early  Red-Speckled.  Black-Speckled. 

Early  Negro.  Brown-Sp6ckled. 

Early  AYhite.  Scarlet  Runner. 

Falmer's  Eariy.  Dutch  White  Runner. 

The  first  four  are  the  earliest;  the  others  are  better 
fitted  for  a  general  crop.  As  the  plant  is  of  tropical 
origin,  our  climate  is  scarcely  sufficient  for  the  exten- 
sive production  of  the  ripe  beans,  which  are  the  princi- 
pal object  in  France  and  Italy  ;  but  the  immature  le- 
gumes are  produced  copiously,  and  are  most  in  demand  in 
this  country. 

In  England  it  is  seldom  advantageous  to  sow  kidney- 
beans  in  the  open  ground  before  the  middle  or  end  of 
April ;  after  which  period  succe&sive  sowings  may  be 
made  every  fourteen  days  to  the  end  of  July.  The 
plants  are  grown  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  the  earth 
is  carefully  drawn  to  the  roots.  When,  owing  to  the 
nature  of  the  season,  great  quantities  of  pods  come  at 
one  time,  the  superfluous  produce  should  be  gathered  for 
picking.  Kjdney-beans  are  well  adapted  for  forcing  in  hot- 
beds or  hot-houses;  the  climate  of  the  peach-house,when  it 
can  be  obtained,  being  considered  the  best.  The  sow- 
ings may  begin  in  January;  -they  are  made  in  pots,  and 
a  supply  may  be  thus  obtained  in  the  months  of  March, 
April,  and  May.  The  Dwarf-speckled  is  often  used  in 
hOT-houses,  and  the  Early  white  in  hotbeds.  But  per- 
haps the  best  of  all  for  this  purpose  is  Vibert's  variety, 
or  the  Black  Haricot  of  Flanders  :  the  plant  is  naturally 
of  very  dwarfish  growth  ;  it  flowers  early  ;  the  pods  are 


THE  BEAN.  183 

smooth  and  straight/and  of  a  very  lively  green  color, 
so  that  for  haricots  verts  this  is  decidedly  preferable. 

Among  the  kinds  known  in  -the  United  States  as 
Bunch-BeanSy  or,  from  their  valuable  characteristics  of 
crispness,  Snap  Shorts,  are  the  following  :  JEarly  Mo- 
haiuk,  Early  Six-  Weeks,  Early  Valentine,  Yelloiv  Six- 
Week^,  Late  Valentine,  or  Refugee,  Black  Valentine, 
'Royal  White  Kidney,  di,ndi  Ohina  Red-eye.  The  Early 
Valentine  variety  is  extensively  cultivated  for  the  Phil- 
adelphia market.  The  pods  are  round,  and  continue  on 
the  vines  fit  for  culinary  purposes  a  long  time.  Bush- 
beans  of  the  kind  just  named  may  be  planted  in  the 
Middle  States  from  the  first  of  April  till  the  last  of  Au- 
gust. The  first  planting  is  very  apt  to  be  nipped  by 
the  frost. 

Climbing  beans,  commonly  called  Pole  Beans,  are  ex- 
tensively' cultivated  in  the  United  States,  especially  that 
called  the  Lima,  of  which  there  are  two  varieties,  the 
white  and  the  green,  the  latter  being  the  largest,  but 
the  white  producing  the  most  certain  crops.  When 
eaten,  both  kinds  are  taken  from  the  pods  like  peas. 
•  In  the  vicinity  of  Philadelphia,  where  they  are  raised 
very  abundantly,  Lima  beans  are  planted  in  the  last 
week  in  April,  in  hills  three  and  a  half  by  four  feet 
apart,  precisely  like  corn.  The  hills  should  consist  of 
good  rich  soil,  raised  only  a  few  inches  above  the  gene- 
ral level,  with  five  or  six  beans  in  each,  covered  about 
two  inches  deep.  If  all  the  seeds  grow,  the  plants  may 
be  thinned  to  .three.  If  they  fail,  replanting  will  ^f 
course  be  required.  Although  they  will,  in  rich  ground 
and  in  a  good  season,  grow  to  the  length  of  twenty  feet, 
the   poles  usually  employed  for  their  support  are  not 


184  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

over  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height,  it  being  necessary  that 
two  feet  shall  be  under  ground. 

The  Carolina  Seiuee,  or  Sala  Bean,  though  not  so 
large,  has  all  the  habits  of  the  Lima,  but  is  more  hardy 
and  a  more  abundant  producer,  although  inferior  in 
richness  and  buttery  character. 

A  variety  of  Pole  Beans,  called  the  Dutch  Case-Knife, 
is  used  either  with  or  without  the  pod  or  hull,  and  is 
also  well  adapted  for  winter  use.  It  has  a  fine  flavor, 
produces  well,  and  comes  earlier  for  the  table  than  either 
the  Lima  or  Carolina  varieties. 

The  kind  called  Scarlet  Runners,  from  their  red  blos- 
soms, require  to  be  planted  rather  earlier  than  the  Lima, 
and  need  the  same  kind  of  support. 

What  are  known  in  England  as  the  Windsor  and  Early 
Long  Pod  Beans,  are  not  so  well  adapted  to  the  Ameri- 
can climate  as  the  varieties  just  referred  to,  They  may 
be  planted  in  cool  situations,  in  drills  a  foot  and  a  half 
asunder,  and  two  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

Esculent  Roots. 

The  Potato  [Solanum  tuberosum). — This  well-know'n 
plant  is  a  native  of  the  elevated  regions  of  equatorial 
America.  It  w-as  introduced  into  Europe  about  the 
middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  but  remained  little 
known  or  regarded  till  within  the  last  hundred  years  : 
it  is  now  so  generally  cultivated  as  to  have  effected  almost 
an  economical  revolution  in  this  country.  Most  of  the 
original  British  sorts  have  been  derived  from  Ireland. 
Its  multitudinous,  varieties  almost  set  enumeration  at 
defiance,  and  new  ones  are  appearing  and  disappearing 
every  year.  By  much  the  most  correct  list  of  the  va- 
rieties now  in  cultivation  is  to  be  found  in  Mr,  Charles 


THE  POTATO.  185 

Lawson's  useful  book,  entitled  The  Agriculturist's  Ma- 
nual. They  are  arranged  in  various  classes,  out  of  which 
we  shall  select  a  very  few  names  of  the  more  esteemed 
sorts.  The  first  class  consists  of  the  earliest  garden 
varieties  of  dwarfish  growth,  and  therefore  well  adapt- 
ed for  forcing,  such  as  Fox's  Early  Delight,  and  the 
Early  Kidney.  The  next  class  contains  those  very 
early  kinds,  of  taller  growth,  which  yield  the  first  gar- 
den crop ;  including  the  Hopetoun  Early,  Harold's 
Early,  Invermay  Early,  the  new  Elm-leaved  Kidney, 
and  Ash-leaved  Early,  and  Early  Seedling.  Of  these, 
the  Hopetoun  is  perhaps  the  best :  the  tubers  are  round, 
dry,  early,  and  of  tolerable  size ;  but  in  all  the  kinds, 
the  mealiness  and  earliness  necessarily  depend  a  good 
deal  on  soil,  situation,  and  the  quality  of  the  season. 
The  third  class  embraces  those  which  generally  form  the 
principalgarden  crop,  and  includes  the  Prince  of  Wales 
Early,  tall  American  Early,  Shaw's  Early,  Taylor's 
Forty-fold,  and  Matchless  Kidney.  For  cultivation  in 
the  home-farm,  the  Edinburgh  Dons,  and  the  Perthshire 
Reds  (of  which  last  there  are  two  or  three  subvarieties), 
have  not  yet  been  surpassed.  The  culture  of  the  late 
sorts  properly  belongs  to  the  farm,  and  "^hen  the  gar- 
dener has  to  take  them  under  his  care,  he  will  find  it 
best  to  adopt  such  as  are  common  in  the  agriculture  of 
the  district.  What  is  called  the  Everlasting  Potato  is 
a  late  sort,  the  tubers  of  which  have  the  property  of  re- 
taining, during  winter,  the  delicate  waxy  flavor  of 
young  potatoes.  They  are  left  in  the  ground,  but  cov- 
ered with  litter  to  prevent  the  access  of  frost.  It  may 
here  be  remarked,  tliat  if  the  tubers  of  any  good  late 
variety,  such  as  the  Edinburgh  Don  or  the  Stalfold  Hall, 
be  buried  in  the  earth  so  deep  as  to  prevent  vegetation. 


186  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

and  kept  there  till  the  beginning  of  autumn,  or  if  their 
growth  be  in  any  way  retarded,  and  if  they  be  planted 
at  that  season  of  the  year,  young  potatoes  may  thus  be 
procured,  during  the  winter  season,  by  merely  prevent- 
ing the  access  of  frost  with  a  covering  of  litter. 

Potatoes  are  commonly  propagated  by  dividing  the 
tubers,  leaving  to  each  cut  one  or  two  eyes  or  buds. 
The  sets  are  then  planted  by  the  aid  of  the  dibble  or 
spade,  in  rows  at  a  distance  varying  from  fifteen  inches 
to  two  feet.  It  was  suggested  by  the  late  Mr.  Knight, 
and  his  views  have  been  amply  confirmed  by  experi- 
ment, that  by  planting  whole  tubers,  and  at  great  dis- 
tances, a  larger  produce  might  be  obtained.  Mr.  Knight 
proposed  to  -leave  four  feet  between  the  rows,  a  distance 
which,  except  with  the  larger  varieties,  was  found  to  be 
unnecessarily  great.  An  experienced  horticulturist  in 
Scotland  states,  that  by  planting  whole  tubers,  and  by 
leaving  in  the  ease  of  dwarfs  two  feet,  and  in  the  tall 
varieties  two  feet  and  a  half,  between  the  rows,  a  return 
from  one-third  to  one-half  more  was  obtained  than  could 
be  had  from  the  old  method.  Of  course  more  tubers 
are  required  for  planting,  but  these  bear  no  proportion 
to  the  great  increase  which  results ;  and  besides,  early 
potatoes  at  the  planting  season  being  unfit  for  table 
use,  there  is  little  economy  in  sparing  them. 

The  earliest  crop  should,  if  possible,  be  placed  in  a 
light  soil,  and  in  a  warm  situation,  and  should  be  planted 
about  the  middle  of  March.  Sometimes  the  eyes  of  the 
tubers  are  made  to  spring  or  vegetate  on  a  hotbed,  and 
the  plants  are  put  out  as  soon  as  the  leaves  can  bear 
the  open  air.  Perhaps  it  is  better,  as  recommended  by 
Mr.  Saul,  of  Lancaster,  to  promote  incipient  vegetation 
in  some  warm  jilace,  as  a  house  oi>  green-house,  by  lay- 


THE  POTATO.  187 

ing  a  woolen  cloth  or  some  other  covering  over  them. 
When  the  sprouts  are  about  two  inches  long,  he  plants 
them  out  towards  the  end  of  March,  and  thus  procures 
young  potatoes  in  seven  or  eight  weeks.  In  some  places, 
the  plants  are  forced  to  some  extent,  by  being  protected 
in  frames  covered  with  oiled  paper.  A  secondary  plant- 
ing of  tubers  should  be  made  before  the  middle  of  April. 
"When  the  stems  are  a  few  inches  above  ground,  the 
earth  should  be  drawn  to  them ;  an  operation,  how- 
ever, which,  while  it  improves  the  crop,  delays  its  ma- 
turity for  two  or  three  weeks'.  Mr.  Knight  recommends 
removing  the  flowers  as  they  appear,  and  states  that  by 
this  means  the  produce  is  increased  by  a  tori  per  acre. 
The  fine  early  varieties,  however,  scarcely  produce  any 
flowers. 

An  important  fact  in  the  cultivation  of  the  potato 
was  observed  about  the  year  1-806,  by  the  late  Mr.  Thomas 
Dickson,  of  Edinburgh,  viz.,  that  the  most  healthy  and 
productive  plants  were  to  be  obtained  by  employing  as 
seed-stock  unripe  tubers,  or  even  by  planting  only  the 
wet  or  least-ripened  ends  of  long-shaped  potatoes  ;  and 
he  proposed  this  as  a  preventive  of  the  well-known  dis,- 
ease  called  the  Curl.  This  view  was  confirmed  by  the 
late  Mr.  Knight.  An  intelligent  writer  in  the  Gar- 
deners  Magazine  suggests  a  method  by  which  sprout- 
ing of  the  eyes  is  accelerated.  He  takes  up  the  seed 
potatoes  a  considerable  time  before  they  are  ripe,  and 
exposes  them  for  some  weeks  to  the  influence  of  a  scorch- 
ing sun.  The  resulting  crop  is  at  least  a  fortnight  earlier ; 
but  it  is  not  said  how  this  practice  aff'ects  the  curl.* 

*  It  is  not  thousUt  necessary  here  to  enter  on  the  subject  of 
the  very  general  potato  disease  of  1845  and  1846.     Notwithsfeand- 


188  KlTCHEN  GARDEN. 

The  forcing  of  early  potatoes  on  hotbeds  has  long 
been  practiced ;  but  it  is  attended  "with  considerable 
trouble  and  expense.  Small  supplies  of-  young  waxy 
tubers  are  now  often  produced  during  winter,  in  boxes 
placed  in  a  mushroom-house,  or  in  a  common  cellar,  if 
free  from  frost.  In  October,  old  potatoes  are  placed  in 
layers,  alternating  with  a  mixture  of  tree-leaves  and 
light  mould.  Vegetation  soon  proceeds  ;  and  there  be- 
ing no  opportunity  for  the  unfolding  of  stems  and  leaves, 
the  energies  of  the  plants  are  expanded  in  the  produc- 
tion of  young  tubers.  Before  njid-winter  these  often 
attain  the  size  and  appearance  of  early  potatoes ;  but 
they  are  much  inferior  in  quality,  being  wa,tery  and  of 
little  flavor. 

Of  the  varieties  known  in  the  United  States,  the  Mer- 
cer, an  American  Seedling,  is  almost  exclusively  the 
market  potato  of  Philadelphia,  .where  however  some  few 
persons  fairly  appreciate  the  superior  value  for  eating  of 
the  Foxite.  The  Mercer  and  Pink-eye  varieties  are  most 
prized  in  New  York,  whilst  the  two  varieties  known  by 
the  names  of  Blue  Jackets  and  Winnebagoes,  are  most 
esteemed  at  the  Eastward.  Few  if  any  of  the  varieties 
found  to  succeed  best  in  England  do  well  in  the  United 
States,  where  native  seedlings,  including  .such  as  we 
have  named,  turn  out  by  far  the  best  crops,  both  as  to 
quantity  and  quality.  The  potato  yields  best  in  the 
Northern  and  Eastern  States,  especially  Maine,  where  it 
enters  largely  into  the  farmer's  crops. 

Where  the  soil  is  heavy,  a  compost  is  recommended 

ing  numerous  inquiries  and  publications,  nothing  satisfactory, 
eitlier  as  to  cause  or  cure,  has  been  established,  and,  fortunately, 
the  evil  is  gradually  disappearing. 


THE  POTATO.  189 

to  lighten  and  arouse  it  up,  and  render  it  productive, 
consisting  of  well-decayed  leaves,  fresh  stable  manure,  and 
ashes,  well  mixed.  Unless  the  land  be  new  virgin  soil, 
it  is  in  vain  to  expect  a  heavy  crop  of  potatoes  without  a 
previous  heavy  manuring.  Fresh  stable  manure  is  pre- 
ferred to  .that  which  h^s  been  allowed  to  rot.  The  po- 
tato in  its  growth  takes  up  a  great  deal  of  potash,  and 
hence  the  great  utility  of  ashes  as  a  fertilizer  peculiarly 
adapted  to  this  crop.  The  green  sand  marl  of  New  Jer- 
sey, Delaware,  Maryland,  and  Virginia,  is  well  known 
to  increase  the  product  of  the  potato,  and  this  it  is  sup- 
posed to  do  by  virtue  of  the  potash  it  contains.  A  cool 
climate  and  rather  moist  soil  being  most  favorable  to 
this  root,  it  has  been  found  highly  advantageous  to  keep 
the  manure  on  the  top  of  the  potatoes,  as  this  affords 
protection  against  the  heating  and  drying  effects  of  the 
sun.  Where  the  potatoes  have  been  planted,  and  the 
ground  entirely  covered  soon  afterwards  with  a  thin  lay- 
er of  straw  or  coarse  hay,  fine  crops  have  been  produced, 
although  no  subsequent  cultivation  was  resorted  to. 

Potatoes  are  planted  sometimes  whole,  but  most  fre- 
quently cut  into  several  pieces.  Some  persons  contend 
that  the  largest  sized  potatoes  should  alone  be  taken  for 
planting,  others  think  the  medium  sized  preferable, 
whilst  others  again  believe  the  very  smallest  will  answer 
every  purpose.  Those  who  use  the  smallest  sizes  should 
be  careful  to  plant  them  entire,  or  cut  but  very  little. 
A  large-sized  potato  may  be  so  divided  as  to  make  eight 
sets,  whilst  one  of  medium  size  should  not  bo  divided 
into  more  than  four  or  six  sets.  The  sets  should  be  laid 
in  the  rows  with  the  eyes  upwards,  and  about  ten  inches 
apart,  the  rows  being  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches 
asunder  in  gardens,  but  wider  in  lots  and  fields,  where 
17 


190  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

thej  are  worked  by  the  cultivator  and  plpugh.  The  sets 
for  planting  should  be  cut  at  least  a  week  before  they 
are  to  go  in  the  ground,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  roll 
them  in  ground  plaster  of  Paris  or  old-slaked  lime. 

The  culture  of  the  potato  should  not  be  repeated  upon 
the  same  ground  until  after  a  lapse  of  many  years.  It 
is  also  very  advantageous  to  change  them  from  one  kind 
of  soil  to  another.  The  first  crop  should  be  put  in  as 
early  in  March  as  the  frost  will  permit,  and  the  manure 
laid  beneath  the  seed.  The  late  crop  may  be  planted 
about  the  middle  of  April  or  beginning  of  May,  although 
fine  yields  are  often  obtained  from  planting  a  month 
later.  But  there  is  risk  in  planting  late  from  the  droughts 
of  summer,  and  from  their  liability  of  taking  on  a  second 
growth  in  autumn,  should  the  season  be  wet.  In  some 
parts  of  Britain,and  especially  in  Ireland, they  sometimes 
transplant  from  one  field  to  another  the  stems  of  grow- 
ing potatoes,  after  these  have  grown  six  or  eight  inches 
long,  in  the  same  way  that  cabbage  plants  are  set  out, 
and  the  crops  are  said  to  be  equally  good  with  those 
where  the  potato  sets  were  used.  .But  this  evidently  re- 
quires for  its  success  a  climate  much  more  moist  than 
can  be  found  in  the  United  States,  unless  it  be  in 
Oregon. 

Sweet  Potato  {Convolvulus  Batatus). — The  Sweet 
Potato  grows  to  great  perfection  in  the  Southern  States-, 
and  also  in  that  portion  of  New  Jersey  and  Delaware 
where  the  soil  is  light,  sandj,  and  warm.  •  The  first  step 
in  their  culture  is  to  pi-ovide  the  sprouts  which  are  to  be 
planted  out  in  hills.  For  this  purpose,  the  whole  pota- 
toes are  placed  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  hotbeds  early 
in  April,  and  covered  three  or  four  inches  deep.     When 


JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE.  191 

they  throw  up  sprouts,  which  may  be  expected  in  three 
or  four  weeks  after  planting,  these,  when  about  three  or 
four  inches  above  the  level  of  the  bed^  may  be  separated 
from  the  parent  root  and  planted  out  in  hills,  leaving 
other  shoots  to  follow  for  successive  plantings.  The 
setting-out  must  be  in  beds  about  four  feet  apart,  each 
bed  or  hill  being  raised  nearly  a  foot  above  the  common 
level  of  the  ground.  Some  make  continuous  banks  four 
feet  apart,  and  plant  the  sprouts  on  the  top  about  afoot 
asunder.  After  planting,  they  have  to  be  kept  clean  of 
weeds  until  the  vines  cover  the  ground  and .  prevent 
further  working.  A  shovelful  of  some  good  rotten 
manure,  street  dirt,  or  light  compost,  should  be  put  into 
each  hill  previous  to  putting  out  the  sets. 

Jerusalem  Artichoke  {Helicmthus  tuherosus)  or  tu- 
berous-rooted sunflower. — This  plant,  which  is  a  native 
of  Brazil,  derives  its  epithet  Jerusalem  from  a  corrup- 
tion of  the  Italian  ijrirasole,  sunflower,  and  Artichoke^ 
from  the  resemblance,  in  flavor,  which  its  tubers  bear 
to  the  floral  receptacles  or  bottoms  of  the  artichoke.  It 
is  propagated  by  means  of  its  tubers  in  the  manner  of 
potatoes.  In  March  they  are  planted  out  in  rows  three 
or  four  feet  asunder,  and  in  autumn  the  new  tubers  are 
fit  for  use.  For  the  sake  of  convenience,  it  is  advan- 
tageous to  store  them,  though  the  roots  are  hardy 
enough  to  bear  the  winter  frosts.  Some,  indeed,  allow 
them  to  remain  in  the  ground,  and  dig  them  up  when 
required.  In  this  way  a  suflicient  number  of  sets  are 
generally  left  in  the  ground,  and  the  stalks  are  thinned 
into  rows  in  summer  ;  but  this  is  a  slovenly  mode  of  treat- 
ment, and  seldom  produces  well-flavored  crops. 


192  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

The  Turnip  {Brassica  Rapa),  like  the  potato,  has, 
to  a  great  extent,  migrated  into  the  fields,  and  become 
the  care  of  the  husbandman  more  than  of  the  gardener. 
The  following  are  the  most  esteemed  garden  sorts  in 
England  : 

Early  White  Dutch.  Yellow  Maltese. 

Early  Stone.  Dutch  Yellow. 

Green-topped  White.  ^Aberdeen  Yellow. 
Long  White. '  Teltow. 

Besides  these,  the  Navet  of  the  French  [Brassica 
Wapus  V,  esoulenta)  is  occasionally  cultivated,  and  more 
frequently  the  Swedish  Turnip  or  Rutabaga  {Brassica 
caynpestris  v.  Napo-hrassica,  L.),  which  is  a  most  excel- 
lent winter  sort,  though  it  belongs  more  properly  to  the 
farm.  For  early  crops,  the  white  Dutch  is  the  princi- 
pal variety ;  the  other  white  sorts,  and  the  beautiful  yel- 
low Maltese,  are  useful  in  summer  and  in  the  beginning 
of  autumn.  The  yellow  Dutch  being  capable  of  endur- 
ing a  considerable  degree  of  frost,  affords  the  most  ap- 
propriate winter  supply.  The  teltow  or  French  turnip 
is  remarkable  for  being  high-flavored,  and  is  used  only 
for  seasoning  to  soups  or  stews. 

Turnips  succeed  best  in- a  rich,  well-worked  soil,  of 
a  light  or  medium  quality.  The  first  sowing  is  made 
about  the  end  of  March,  in  a  warm  situation ;  and  it  is 
usual  to  put  in  additional  sowings,  once  a  fortnight  or 
three  weeks,  till  the  end  of  August.  The  early  crops 
are  sown  broadcast^  and  the  later  in  drills  about  a  foot 
asunder.  After  the  plants  have  shown  a  rough  leaf  or 
two,  they  are  thinned  out,  being  left  at  the  distance  of 
eight  or  ten  inches  in  the  drill ;  and  the  ground  is  hoed 
and  kept  free  from  Aveeds.  A-s  turnips  which  have  stood 
the  winter  throw  up  their  seed-stalks  early  in  spring, 


THE  TURNIP.  193 

after  which  their  roots  become  stringy,  and  are  much 
deteriorated,  it  is  useful  to  store  the  turnips  in  the  win- 
ter, keeping  them  in  a  close  place,  and  covering  them 
with  straw. 

A  small  sowing  may  take  place  so  late  as  the  middle 
of  September  ;  and  if  the  winter  prove  mild  or  open 
(as  often  happened  previous  to  1837-8),  young  turnips 
of  excellent  flavor  may  thus  be  procured  irt  the  months 
of  January  and  February.  The  best  sort  for  this  late 
sowing  is  the  Dutch  yellow,  which  (as  already  hinted) 
resists  the  cold  and  inclement  weather  better  than  the 
white.  For  this  winter  crop  a  liberal  application  of 
stimulating  manure,  such  as  rape-cake  and  pigeon- 
dung,  was  recommended  by  the  late  excellent  Mr.  Stuart 
of  Pinkie  garden  :  he  sowed  in  drills  a  foot  asunder, 
and  thinned  out  the  plants  to  six  inches  apart  in  the 
drills  :  a  sheltered  border  was  preferred,  but  no  other 
artificial  prot-ection  was  given  ;  and  his  success  was  com- 
plete. 

The  young  plants,  while  in  the  seed  leaf,  are  often 
destroyed  b^  a  small  beetle  called  the  turnip-fly  [Hal- 
tica  nemorum).  Many  remedies  have  been,  proposed  : 
it  has  been  found  beneficial  to  dust  the  rows  with  quick- 
lime-; but  perhaps  the  best  precaution  is  to  sow  thick, 
and  thus  ensure  a  sufiicient  supply  both  for  the  insect 
and  the  crop.  The  insect  soon  ceases  to  feed  and  disr 
appears.     - 

In  the  United  States  the  Turnip,  though  a  highly  va- 
luable product  of  the  soil,  is  by  no  means  so  important 
a  crop  as  it  is  in  England.  The  varieties  which  have 
been  found  best  adapted  to,  the  soil  and  climate  of  the 
Middle  States,  are  theUarly  White  Butch  or  White 
Strap-lcavedj  of  which   there  arc    the   round  and  flat 

17* 


194  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

kinds  ;  the  Early  Red-top  Butch,  or  Strap-leaved  Red- 
top.,  resembling  the  preceding  in  form,  but  having  the 
portion  of  the  root  .which  grows  above  ground  of  a  red 
or  purple  color;  .the  Early  Yellow  Butch.  For  spring 
use,  the  Swedish  Turnip,  or  Ruta  Baga,  should  be  sown 
from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  July. 

It  is  computed  that  an  ounce  of  seed  will  suffice  for 
a  bed  four  feet  wide  by  forty  long.  For  an  early  crop, 
sow  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  in  drills 
or  broad-cast,  as  most  convenient.  For  the  fall  and 
winter  supply,  sow  in  August.  In  dry  seasons,  the  young 
turnips  are  very  apt  to  be  eaten  off  by  the  turnip  fly,  so 
that,  to  obviate  this  and  other  causes  of  failure,  resowings 
are  often  called  for.  When  the  plants  are  too  thick,  thej 
should  be  thinned  to  about  three  inches  apart.  Good 
seed  will  germinate,  under  favorable  circumstances, 
in  from  thirty-six  to-  forty-eight  hours. 

The  Carrot  (Baucus  Qarota)  is  one  of  the  native 
Umbelliferse  of  England,  but  has  been  much  transformed 
by  cultivation  ;  the  root  swelling;  and  becoming  succu- 
lent and  of  agreeable  flavor.  The  best  varieties  are 
the  Early  Home  or  Dutch,  and  the  Orange-red  Carrot ; 
the  former  for  early,  the  latter  for  general  cultivation. 
The  Altringham  or  Large  Orange  Carrot  is  in-  great 
repute;  it  is  distinguished  by  a. considerable  portion  of 
the  root  remaining,  above  ground.  The  carrot  likes  .a 
light,  deep,  fresh  soil,  in  which  it  may  be  at  liberty  to 
push  down  its  long  spindle-shaped  roots.  A  few  Early 
Home  carrots  may  be  sown  in  February  on  a.  moderate 
hotbed.  In  the  beginning  of  March, -the  same  sort  may 
be  sown  in  the  open  air.  In  April,  the  orange  variety 
may  follow  as  a  general  crop :  it  succeeds  best  in  drills. 


TUE  PARSNIP.  195 

The  Long  White  Carrot  is  of  delicate  flavor,  is  easily 
cultivated,  but  does  not  keep  well.  In  many  old  gar- 
dens, the  early  plants  are  liable  to  the  attacks  of  a  small 
grub,  the  larva  of  some  insect ;  it  is  therefore  a  useful 
precaution  to  sow  a  moderate  crop  of  the  Early  Home 
variety  in  July.  After  sowing,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
thin  the  plants,  and  keep  them  clear  of  weeds.  The 
roots  are  stored-  in  winter  in  the  manner  of  turnips. 

Carrot  seed,  being  so  extremely  light,  should  be  sown 
when  the  weather  is  perfectly  calm,  disposed  in  drills 
or  rows  and  covered  very  lightly,  say  not  more  than  half 
an  inch  deep.  To  separate  the  seeds,  which  are  apt  to 
stick  together,  let  them  be  rubbed  between  the  hands  in 
dry  sand  or  earth.  When  the  plants  are  up,  they  may 
be  thinned  with  a  narrow  hoe,  or  otherwise,  so  as  to  be 
left  from  three  to  four  inches  apart,  and  if  intended  to 
remain  long  in  the  ground,  they  may  be  left  six  inches 
apart.  The  usual  time  for  sowing  the  main  crop  in  the 
United  States  is  from  the  first  of  May  to  the  first  of 
June. 

The  Parsnip  [Pastinaca  sativa)  is  novf  less  cultivated 
in  England  than  it  was  in  Catholic  times,  when  it  was 
a  favorite  accotapaniment  to  dried  fish  in  Lent.  To 
some  its  flavor  is  not  agreeable ;  but  is  a  very  nutritious 
vegetable,  and  of  easy  digestion.  •  Like  the  carrot,  its 
root  is  long  and  tapering,  diff*ering  chie^y  in  being  ef 
a  whitish  color.  Its  culture  is  also  very  much  the  same. 
There  is  a  variety  with  short  roundish  roots,  called  the 
Turnip-rooted  Parsnip,  very  well  suited  for  garden  cul- 
ture. 

The  parsnip  is  a  sweet  and  wholesome  vegetable,  more 
generally  relished  and  eaten  at  American  tables  than 


196  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

the  carrot.  They  are  also  sometimes  made  into  a  mar- 
malade, and  are  even  said  to  be  capable  of  yielding  a 
good  wine.  They  constitute  an  admirable  food  for  horses, 
mixed  of  course  with  dry  food,  and  when  given  to  cows 
add  greatly  to  the  quantity  and  good  quality  of  the 
milky  products,  to  which  they  impart  no  unpleasant  fla- 
vor, such  as  is  found  to  follow  the  Uvse  of  the  turnip, 
cabbage,  &c.  Th-e  varieties  best  known  in  the  Middle 
States  are  the  Guernese^,  and  the  Sugar  or  Holloio 
Croivn,  the  first  being  best  adapted  for  large  crops  in 
fields,  and  the  latter  for  gardens.  They  may  be  sown 
in  tlie  spring  from  March  to  May,  in  drills,  and  covered 
about  an  inch  deep.  Thin  to  eight  inches.  Left  in  the 
ground,  they  will  stand  almost  any  degree  of  freezing 
cold  in  winter. 

Red  Beet  {Beta  vwZ^ar/s)  a  biennial  plant,  native 
of  the  shores  of  the  south  of  Europe.  .  The  boiled  root 
is  eatQ^n  ooldj  in  thin  slices,  either  by  itself  or  as  a 
salad :  it  is  also  often  used  as  a  pickle.  The  varieties 
are  numerous,  but  the  most  common  are  the  Long-root- 
ed, the  Short  or  Turnip-J'ooted,  the  Bassano,  and- the 
Gigantic  dark  beet.  ■'  There  is  a  fine  French  variety 
cJllled  Castelnaudary,  from  a  town  in  Languedoc ;  but 
as  yet  it  is  little  known  in  this  country. 

The  red  beet  prospers  in  a  rich,  deep  soil,  not  recently 
manured,  and  which  "has  been  well  pulverized  by  the 
spade.  During  April  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  drills, 
fifteen  inches  asunder,  and  the  plants  are  afterwards  to 
be  thinned  to  eight  inches  from  each  other  in  the  lines* 
In  the  northern  parts  of  the  island,  the  roots  are  stored 
in  winter,  care  being  taken  not  to  break  them  or  cut  off 
the  leaves  too  closely,  as  they  bleed  when  injured. 


SKIRRET.  197 

In  the  United  States  the  beet  is  a  favorite  vegetable, 
largely  cultivated  in  gardens  for  the  table,  and  in  lots 
and  fields  for  stock.  The  Sugar  Beet  and  Ruta  Baga 
are,  however,  generally  chosen  for  the  latter  purpose. 

The  Turnip-rooted  variety  is  considered  the  earliest, 
whilst  the  Long  Red  is  planted  for  the  principal  crop 
from  the  middle  of  May  to  the  20th  of  June. 

The  White  Beet  (Beta  cicla)  is  chiefly  cultivated  for 
its  stalks  or  leaves,  the  mid-rib  of  which,  divested  of  the 
sides  or  leafy  part,  is  added  to  soups,  or,  when  peeled 
and, boiled,' dressed  and  eaten  like  asparagus.  The 
Siuiss  Chard  is  one  variety  of  the  white  beet,  used  in  the 
same  way.  The  Silver  or  Sea-Kale  Beet  much  resem- 
bles the  White  Beet,  but  has  much  larger  leaves  and 
stems,  and  when  cooked  bears  more  resemblance  to 
Sea-Kale. 

The  beet  is  sown  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the 
ground.  For  this,  as  for  all  root  crops,  the  soil 
should  be  broken  deep,  and  rendered  very  fine.  Drop 
the  seeds  in  the  drills  about  three  inches  apart,  cover 
an  inch  deep  and  tread,  or  roll  tlip. earth  down  firmly. 
When  up  and  finely  growing,  thin  out  to  six  inches  apart. 

Skirret  {jSium  Sisarum)  is  a  native  of  China,  now 
seldom  seen  in  English  gardens.  Its  tubers  are  used 
like  parsnips.  It  is  a  perennial,  and  may  be  propagat- 
ed by  separating  the  roots  in  spring ;  but  it  succeeds 
better  by  annual  sowings,  which  may  be  nfade  in  April. 

This  root  is  a  white,  sweet,  and  pleasant  vegetable, 
cooked  and  eatenr  much  like  Salsify.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  in  beds  from  the  middle  of  April  to  the  first  of  May. 
They  should  be  placed  i\\  drills,  and  when  well  started 
in  growth,  thinned  so  as  to  remain  five  or  six  inches 


198  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

apart.  The  roots  will  be  fit  for  the  table  about  the  mid- 
dle of  November,  and,  like  those  of  the  carrot,  &c.,  so 
continue  till  spring.  But  they  do  not  resist  frost  like  the 
parsnip,  and  require-  to  .be  taken  up  and  stored  away  in 
a  shed  or  cellar,  covered  with  dry  sand  or  earth. 

ScoRZONERA  {Scorzoiiera  ' Hispaniea)  and  Salsify 
{Trdgopogon  porrif alius)  are  generally  associated  to- 
gether in  gardens,  and  are  now  less  cultivated  in  Eng- 
land than  they  deserve.  The  toots  are  used  in  soups-, 
and  sometimes  as  dressed  side-dishes.  They  are  sown 
in  lines,  and  treated  like  the  crops  of  red  beet  or 
parsnip. 

Salsify,  known  by  the  common  appellation  of  Oyster 
Plants  is  a  native  of  Britain,  where  it  is  found  growing 
wild  in  the  fields.  Its  white  roots,  somewhat  resem- 
bling small  parsnips,  are  much  esteemed  by  many  who 
trace  in  their  flavor  some  resemblance  to  that  of  the 
oyster.  The  green  stems  or  shoots,  which  rise  from  the 
roots  of  yoaT  old  plants  in  the  spring,  are  boiled  and 
eaten,  like  asparagus.  In  the  Middle  States,  the  seed 
may  be  sown  pretty  thickly,  any  time  in  April  or  May, 
in  drills  a  foot  apart,  covering  them  an  inch  deep.  Thin 
the  growing  plants  first  to  three  inches,  and  finally  so 
as  to  stand  only  six  inches  apart.  The  culture  resem- 
bles that  for  parsnips  and  carrots.  In  autumn,  before 
hard  frosts  set  in,  some  of  the  roots  might  be  taken  up 
for  use,  and  secured  in  moist  sand  under  shelter.  Or, 
like  parsnips,  they  may  be  left  in  the  ground  and  dug  up 
as  wanted,  remaining  good  all  winter. 

The  Radish  (Raphanus  sativus)  is  a  native  of  Cliinar. 
There  are  two  principal  varieties,  the  spindle-rooted  and 


OXALIS  ROOTS.  199 

the  turnip-rooted  radish  ;  and  of  these  the  subvarieties 
are  numerous.     The  following  may  be  mentioned : 

Spindle-shaped.  Round-shaped. 

Short-topped  Scarlet.  AVhite  Turnip. 

Scarlet  Salmon.  Yellow  Turnip. 

Long  White.  White  Spanish. 

White  Russian.  Black  Spanish. 

The  first  two  and  the  white  turnip  radish  are  best  suit- 
ed for  early  crops,  the  scarlet  salmon  for  summer,  the 
yellow  turnip  for  autumn,  and  the  white  and  black 
Spanish  for  winter.  There  are,  besides,  oval  or  oblong 
Summer  Radishes,  both  white  and  red,  lately  brought 
into  notice. 

Some  cultivators  in  England  sow  their  earliest  crop 
in  November,  in  a  warm  situation,  at  the  foot  of  a  wall 
or  in  front  of  a  pinery,  and  continue  sowing  once  a 
month,  if  weather  permit,  during  winter.  Others  grow 
their  first  radishes  under  frames,  aiding  vegetation  by  a 
slight  bottom-heat.  As  the  season  advances,  succes- 
sional  supplies  are  sown  once  a  fortnight.  From  the 
middle  of  July  to  the  middle  of  September  the  turnip- 
radishes  are  sown  from  time  to  time ;  and  on  the  ap- 
proach of  frost  they  may  be  stored  up  in  sand,  andiept 
throughout  winter. 

OxALis  Roots  ( Oxalis  crenata,  Jacq.  ;  0.  arracachaj 
G.  Don)  have  of  late  years  been  cultivated  for  the  table 
in  England.  The  plant  produces  tubers  at  the  root, 
somewhat  in  the  manner  of  the  potato ;  but  they  are  of 
smaller  size,  seldom  exceeding  that  of  a  walnut.  By 
cultivation,  however,  by  manuring,  laying  down,  earth- 
ing up,  watering,  and  other  helps  known  to  horticultur- 
ists, considerable  increase  of  size  in  the  tubers  may  be, 
effected.     From  the  mode  of  culture  adopted  by  the 


200  KitCHEN  GAEDEN. 

most  intelligent  gardeners,  we  conclude  that  a  rich  light 
soil  is  the  most  proper  ;  that  it  is  useful  to  forward  the 
plants  in  a  hotbed,  in  the  way  practiced  with  early  peas, 
so  as  to  have  them  ready  to  transplant  by  the  middle 
or  end  of  May ;  that  in  planting  out  they  should  be 
inserted  in  a  sloping  position,  so  that  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  stem  may  be  covered  by  the  soil ;  that 
earthing  up,  or  drawing  up  additional  soil  to  the  stems 
in  June  and  July  is  important ;  and  that  laying  down 
the  stems  horizontally  in  August,  and  covering  them 
slightly  (to  the  depth  perhaps  of  two  inches)  witE  mould, 
tends  greatly  to  promote  their  productiveness.  It  should 
be  observed  that  the  tubers  continue  to  swell  in  size  till 
November,  or  till  stopped  by  frost.  It  is  believed  that 
the  largest  tubers,  having  full  eyes  or  buds,  yield  the 
strongest  plants  ;  and,  therefore,  a  portion  of  the  largest 
should  be  reserved  for  seed-stock.  Cut  sets  of  these 
large  tubers  are,  by  some  cultivators,  preferred  to  whole 
tubers.  The  rest,  from  the  size  of  a  filbert  to  a  walnut, 
go  to  the  cook.  The  mode  of  dressing  for  table  is  sim- 
ple. The  tubers,  after  being  cleaned,  are  boiled  for 
about  ten  minutes,or  till  they  be  slightly  softened ;  and 
they  are  then  served  up  with  white  sauce.  Some  per- 
sons merely  put  them  into  boiling  water  for  a  few  mi- 
nutes ;  then,  pouring  off  the  water,  transfer  them  to  a 
covered  saucepan ;  and  place  the  pan  upon  hot  cinders, 
drawing  some  of  these  to  the  lid ;  in  this  way  the  tubers 
are  rendered  more  dry  or  mealy.  They  have  a  pleasant 
flavor ;  somewhat  resembling  a  new  potato,  with  the  ad- 
ditional zest  of  a  nut  or  kernel ;  but  also  with  a  certain 
decree  of  acidity.  The  oxalis  conies  from  the  same 
country  that  afforded  us  the  invaluable  potato,  and  has 
been  extolled  as  likely  to  rival  it ;  but  this  it  will  never 


OXALIS  ROOTS.  201 

do:  a  dish  of  oxalis  may  form  an  agreeable  variety  and 
adjunct,  but  no  more;  bearing  to  the  potato  such  rela- 
tion as  sea-kale  does  to  asparagu^.  It  may  be  added, 
hoAvever,  thiiJb  the  oxalis  crenata-is,  in  other  respects,  a 
useful  vegetable.  The  leaves  may  be  used  as  salad,  and 
they  constitute,  indeed,  the  principal  salad  at  Lima. 
The  shoots  and  young  branches  are  found  to  make  an 
agreeable  pur^e,*  having  the  wood-sorrel  flavor;  and 
the  larger  stems  have  been  used  in  tarts,  in  the  manner 
of  rhubarb  stalks,  and  been  found  more  tender.  The 
Oxalis -Deppei  tubers  are  hardy,  prolific,  and  excellent 
when  properly  cooked  ;  being  free  of  the  acidity  of  that 
of  0.  crenata. 

The  tuberous  roots  of  a  lately  introduced  species  of 
Indian  Cress,  Tropwolum  tuherosum,  were  for  some 
time  in  vogue,  being  praised  as  having,  when  boiled,  a 
''very  delicate  flavor,  resembling  the  richest  asparagus.'' 
The  plant  is  readily  multiplied  by  cuttings  during  the 
summer  months ;  and  the  young  plants  thus  produced 
furnish  a  crop  of  tubers  late  in  the  autumn  of  the  same 
year.  But  these  have  not  maintained  their  character  ; 
most  people  regarding  their  sharp  anise  flavor  as  far 
from  delicate.  They  are  better  adapted  for  being  used 
as  a  pickle.     , 

JSfasturtiiun,  or  Indian  Cress,  {Tropwolum  Majus). 
The  common  yellow-flowered  nasturtium,  whilst  it  orna- 
ments the  flower  garden  with  its  rich  yellow  or  crim- 
son blossoms,  is  a  valuable  product  of  the  kitchen  gar- 
den. It  is  considered  a  native  of  Peru  or  Chili.  The 
curled  leaf-stems  and  green  seed  pods  are  eaten  as  salads, 
or  made  into  pickles,  rivaling  capers.     The  seed  may 

*  A  French  soup. 


202  KITCHEN  GARDKN. 

be- sown  about  the  first  of  April,  in  rows  or  patches, 
and  covered  an  inch  deep.  As  the  plants  ^viil  run  from 
five  feet  to  three  times  that  length,  they  must  be  provided 
with  proper  supports,  and  will  form  excellent  trellises, 
or  blinds.  The  yellow  stands  the  heat  better  than  the 
crimson. 

Alliaceous  Plants. 

The  Onion  {Allium  Cepa)  is  two  well  krroAvn  to  re- 
quire description,  and  has  been  cultivated  ia  England 
from  time  immemorial.  Among' the  varieties  maybe 
enumerated  : 

Strasburg.  White  Portugal  or  Reading. 

French  Yellow.  Nqcera  Onion. 

James's  Keeying.  Blood  Red. 

Globe.  Tripoli  or  Giant. 

Silver-skinned,  large  and  small..  Potato,. tree,  and  Pearl  Onion. 

Besides  these,  the  Welsh  Onion' or  Ciboule  {Allium  fis- 
tulosum,  It.),  a  native  of  Siberia,  is  sometimes  grown 
for  scallions.  Eor  a  general  crop,  the  Strasburg,  French 
Yellow,  and  James's  Keeping' varieties  may  be  esteemed 
the  best,  as  they  are  hardy  and  keep  long.  -The  White 
Portugal  grows  to  a  large  size,  is  mild  in  flavor,  but 
does  not  keep  well.  The  small  Silver-skinned  is  chiefly 
used  for  pickling.  The  Nocera,'  introduced  by  Mr. 
Lawson  in  1843,  is  not  only  of  good  quality,  but  pos- 
sesses the  advantage  of  not  being  so  apt  to  send  .up 
flower-stalks  as  the  other  kinds. 

The  onion  afi'ects  a  light,  rich^  well-worked  soil,  which 
has  not  been  recently  manured.  The  principal  crop 
may  be  sown  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  March,  ac- 
cording to  the  state  of,  the  weather  apd  the  dryness  of 
the  ground.     Onions  are  cultivated  in  beds,  four  or  five 


THE  ONION.  203 

feet  in  width,  and  are  regularly  thinned,  hoed,  and  kept 
free  from,  weeds.  About  the  beginning  of  September 
the  crop  is  ripe  or  ready  for  lifting,  which  is  known  by 
the  withering  of  the  leaves;  the  roots  are  taken  up, 
and,  after  being  well  dried  in  the  open  air,  are  stored 
in  a  garret  or  loft,  where  they  may  be  perfectly  secured 
from  damp. 

Towards  the  end  of  August  a  secondary  crop  is  sown, 
to  afford  a  supply  of  young  onions  or  scallions,  as  they 
are  called,  in  the  spring  months.  The  Strasburg  and 
White  Portugal  may  be  used  for  this  purpose.  Those 
which  are  not  required  for  the  kitchen  may  be  allowed 
to  stand,  and  if  the  flower-bud  be  picked  out  on  its  first 
appearance,  and  the  earth  be  stirred  about  them,  they 
will  frequently  produce  bulbs  equal  in  size  and  quality 
to  the  large  ones  that  are  imported  from  the  Continent. 

Some  eminent  horticulturists  have  strongly  recom- 
mended the  transplanting  of  onions.  Mr.  Knight  re- 
commends sowing  the  White  Portugal  onion  in  May 
under  the  shade  of  a  tree,  where  the  plants  remain  of 
a  diminutive  size,  .during  the  autumn  and  winter,  and 
are  planted  out  in  the  succeeding  spring.  Other  culti- 
vators collect  all  the  minute  bulbs  of  the  ordinary  crop, 
and  use  them  in  the  same  way.  Mr.  Macdonald,  Dal- 
keith Park,  was  in  the 'practice  of  confining  his  opera- 
tions to  one  summer.  He  sowed  in  February  on  a  slight 
hotbed,  or  sometimes  merely  under  a  glass-fraine.  In 
the  first  or  second  week  of  April,  according  to  the  'state 
of  the  weather,  he  transplanted  the  young  seedlings  in 
rows,  eight  inches  asunder,  and  at  the  distance  of  four 
or  five,  inches  in  the  row.  Previous  to  planting,  the 
roots  of  the  seedlings-  were  dipped  in  a  puddle  of  one 
part  of  soot  to  three  parts  of  earth,  an  expedient  which 


204  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

was  found  useful  in  guarding  the  transplanted  onions 
from  the  attack  of  the  wire-worm.  He  found  that 
onions  thus  treated  attained  a  large  size. 

The  Potato- Onion  is  propagated  by  the  lateral 
bulbs,  which  it  throws  out,  under  ground,  in  considej.\a- 
ble  numbers.  It  may  be  planted  about  midwinter,  and 
will  ripen  early  in  the  summer.  Its  flavor  is  not  un- 
pleasant ;  but  the  plant,  being  rather  troublesome  in 
cultivation,  is  not  likely  to  supersede  the  common  onion. 

The  Tree-Onion,  introduced  from  Canada,  is  a  vi- 
viparous variety,  producing  small  bulbs  in  place  of 
flowers ;  but  the  bulbs  are  strong-scented. 

The  Pearl-Onion,  of  recent  introduction  into  Eng- 
land, and  hitherto  little  known  {Allium  Hallerii,  G. 
Don?),  produces  clusters  or  small  bulbs  at  the  root. 
These  little  bulbs  are  of  a  fine  white  color,  like  the  sil- 
ver-skinned, and  very  fit  for  pickling. 

The  onion  requires  a  very' rich  soil,  and  forms  an  ex- 
ception to  most  plants  in  regard  to  the  necessity  of 
changing  the  ground.  Where  the  same  patch  has  been 
kept  well  manured,  heavy  annual  crops  have  been  taken 
off  for  thirty  or  forty  years  successively. 

In  the  Middle  States,  where  a  field  crop  is  the  object, 
the  ground,  after  being  heavily  manured,  is  d\ig  or 
ploughed  early  in  spring,  well  raked  or  harrowed,  and 
divided  into  very  shallow  drills  about  nine  inches  apart, 
with  alleys  between  every  three  rows  about  fifteen  inches 
in  width.  Young  onions  about  the  size  of  beans  are  to 
be  planted  in  these  rows  or  drills,  but  not-  covered  with 
earth.  These  are  to  be  thinned  so  as  to  stand  about 
three  inches  apart,  and  kept  clean  and  hoed  every  few 
days.  In  June,  the  vacant  alleys  may  be  dug  and  plant- 
ed in  cabbage,  as  this  will  not  interfere  with  the  onion 


THE  ONION.  205 

crop,  Tvliich  ripens  and  coraes  off  in  July.*  After  being 
pulled  they  are  laid  out  to  dry,  and  then  placed  under 
shelter. 

The  young  onions  intended  for  planting  the  succeed- 
ing year  are  raised  from  seed  sown  in  shallow  drills 
early  in  April.  About  the  middle  of  July,  when  they 
have  attained  the  size  of  beans,  these  are  taken  out  of  the 
ground,  and  put  away  in  some  dry  place  where  there  is 
a  free  circulaticm  of  air,  and  thus  kept  till  the  following 
spring  to  be  planted  out  as  described. 

With  regard  to  the  onion  in  the  American  climate,  it 
is  a  singular  fact  that  they  will  not  ripen  (in  the  Mid- 
dle States  at  least)  unless  the  seed  be  sown  very  early 
in  the  spring.  .  They  may,  however,  be  preserved  in 
their  places  through  the  winter  by  a  light  covering  of 
old  or  short  manure,  straw  or  other  litter,  placed  over 
them  in  the  fall. 

Although  they  may  not  become  fully  matured,  onions 
can,  however,  be  raised  from  the  seed  in  one  season  suf- 
ficiently large  for  culinary  purposes,  and,  where  the  soil 
and  other  circumstances  are  peculiarly  congenial,  quite 
as  large  as  those  which  have  occupied  two  seasons  in 
their  development. 

With  regard  to  the  Potato  or  Underground  Onion,  it 
may  be  necessary  to  state  that  they  should  be  planted 
in  March,  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  six  inches 
from  bulb  to  bulb,  which  should  be  covered  about  three 
inches  deep.  Cultivate  and  earth  or  hill  up  like  pota- 
toes, and  they  w^ill  continue  to  grow  till  about  the  first 

*  When  the  onion  bulbs  are  well  expanded,  they  are  injured  if 
the  ground  be  stirred  around  them  with  the  hoe.  Therefore,  if 
the  weeds  require  removal,  this  must  be  done  by  hand. 

■       18* 


^06  KITXJHEN  GARDEN. 

of  A-ugust,  when  they  are  to  be  taken  out  of  the  ground, 
dried  and  treated  like  onions  raised  in  the  ordinary 
way.  A  single  onion,  slightly  covered,  will  often  pro- 
duce'five  or  six  of  good  size. 

The  Tree  or  WeWh  Onion  is  adapted  to  very  cold 
countries,  shooting  up  rank  stems,  upon  which  small 
bulbs  grow  instead  of  seeds.  These  small  bulbs  are  pre- 
served and  planted  out  next  year,  producing  roots 
of  considerable  size,  besides  a  fresh  supply  of  little  seed 
bulbs  on  the  stems. 

The  Leek  {Allium  Porrum)  is  a  native  of  Switzer- 
land, but  has  probably  been  cultivated  in  England  for 
many  centuries.  The  varieties  are  the  narrow-leaved 
or  Flanders  leek,  the  Scotch  or  flag-leek,  and  the 
broad-leaved  or  tall  London  leek.  Of  these,  the  Scotch 
leek  is  considered  as  the.  most  hardy ;  and  Mr.  Handasy- 
de's  Musselburgh  variety  is  preferred. 

Leeks  are  sown  in  beds  in  spring,  and  in  June  or  July 
are  planted  out  in  rows  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  apart, 
and  six  inches  asunder  between  the  rows.  The  tips  of 
the  fibrous  roots  are  trimmed  before  planting.  When 
the  weather  is  moist,  it  is  found  be-nefieial  merely  to  lay 
the  plants  into  the  hole  made  by  the  dibble,  withcrut 
closing  the  earth  upon  it,  the  stem  being  by  this  means 
enctiuraged  to  swell  out  and  fill  the  hole. 

Shallot  {AlTium  ascalonicuni)  is  a  native  x)f  Pales- 
tine. It  is  much  used  in  cookery  for  high-flavored  soups 
and  gravies,  and  is  sometimes  put  into  pickles.  A  va- 
riety called  the  Long-keeping  is  preferred.  It  is  pro- 
pagated by  the  cloves,  the  smallest  being  selected  for 
that  purpose,  and    planted   in  October    or  November, 


SPINACH.  207 

Some  recommend  the  mixing  of  soot  witli.tlie  manure, 
as  a  protection  against  the  attacks  of  maggots,  by  which 
this  pLant  is  greatly  infested.  Late  autumn  planting, 
however,  is  found  the  best  expedient,  as  the  bulbs  are 
ripe  and  lifted  next  summer  before  the  larvoe  commence 
their  depredations. 

Garlic  {Allium  Sativum)  and  Rocambole  [Allium 
Scerodoprasum),  thoilgh  common  ingredients  in  conti- 
nental cookery,  are  comparatively  seldom  used  in  Eng- 
land. A  few  rows  wilh  generally  be  found  sufficient. 
They  are  propagated  by  offsets  or  cloves  from  the  bulbs, 
or  by  the  bulbils  which  grow  on  the  flower-stem.  The 
Oiiivj:  or  Qive  [Allium  Schoenoprasum),  a  pretty  little 
native  plant,  is  used  occasionally  as  salad  and  alliaceous 
seasoning.  A  single  row  may  be  planted  as  an  edging 
to  an  onion  bed,  and  it  ,is  easily  increased  by  parting 
the  r^ots  in  spring  and  autumn.  -  This  is  a  hardy  pe- 
rennial, and  when  once  started  inay  be  kept  growing  for 
many  years.  Its  flavor  partakes  of  that  of  the  leek 
and  onion. 

Spinaceous  Plants. 

Spinach  [Spinacea  oleracea)  is  an  annual  plant,  and 
is  a  native  of  Western  Asia.  It  has  long  been  cultivat- 
ed for  the' sake  of  its  succulent  leaves,  which,  when  pro- 
perly dressed,  form  an  agreeable  and  nutritious  article 
of  food.  There  are  three  varieties:  the  smooth-seeded, 
the  large-leaved  or  Flanders,  having  also  smooth  seeds", 
and  the  prickly-seeded.  The  latter,  as  being  the  most 
hardy,  i&  often  called  winter  spinach. 

The  first  sowing  is  made  in  August,  in  some  sheltered 
situation  ;  th-e  plants,  as  they  advance,  are  thinned,  an'd 
the  o:round  is  hood.     In  the  be^innino;  of  winter  the  out- 


208  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

er  leaves  become  fit  for  .use  ;  in  mild  weather  suoeessive 
gatherings  are  obtained,  and,  with  proper  managetoent, 
the  crops  may  be  prolonged  to  the  beginning  of  May. 

To  afford  a  succession-crop,  the  seeds  of  the  round- 
leaved  smooth-seeded  varieties  should  be  sown  in  the 
end  of  January,  and  again  in  February  a<nd  March. 
From  this  period  it  is  proper  to  sow  small  quantities 
once  a  fortnight,  summer  spinach  lasting  only  a  short 
time.  The  open  spaces  between  the  lines  of  cauliflower, 
and  others  of  the  cabbage  tribe,  will  generally  afford, 
enough  of  room  for  these  transient  crops.  They  are 
generally  sown  in  shallow  drills,  and  are  thinned  out 
and  .weeded  as  may  be  required. 

In  the  United  States,  the  winter  crops  of  spinach  are 
sown  in  August,  and  the  plants  "generally  protected 
through  the  winter  by  a  light  covering  of  matts,  straw, 
or  other  clean  litter.  The  crops  intended  for  summer 
and  fall  use,  may  be  sown  from  the  first  of  April  to  the 
middle  of  May,  and  will  come  in  very  well  between  the 
rows  of  peas.  It  requires  rich  grorund,  and  is  almost- 
worthless  where  grown  on  thin  or  "exhausted  soil. 
When  too  thick,  the  plants  are  to-be  thinned  out. 
The  seed,  though  commonly  sown  broad-cast,  are  best 
in  drills  or  rows  nine  inches,  apart,  so  as  to  admit  of 
hoeing  between. 

New  Zealand  Spinach  {Tetragonia  expansa)  is  a 
half-hardy  annual,  a  native  of  New  Zealand,  from- 
which  it  was  brought  by  the  late  Sir  Joseph  Banks. 
The  plants  grow^  tall,  spread  wide,  and  the  leaves  form 
a  good  substitute  for  spinach.  If  the  plants  be  well 
watered,  they  will  continue  to;  afford  large  quantities  of 
succulent  leaves  during  the  hottest  and  driest  weather. 


SPINACH.  209 

when  summer  spinach  is  useless.  In  England,  the  seed 
is  usually  sown  in  a  pot  placed  in  a  melon-frame  in 
March:  the  seedlings  are  transplanted  singly  into  small 
pots,  and  kept  under  cover  till  the  beginning  of  June, 
when  they  are  plung<3d  out  at  two  or  three  feet  apart, 
and  treated  somewhat  like  gourds.  In  gathering  the 
leaves,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  leading 
shoots. 

QuiNOA  Spixach  ((77ie?207JO(izi^m  Quinoa).  This  vege- 
table's a  native  not  only  of  Chili  but  of  the  table-land  of 
Mexico.  It  is  described  and  figured  by  Ruiz  and  Pavon  ; 
and  Humboldt  informs  us  that  in  Mexico  the  leaves  are 
universally  used  as  spinach  or  greens,  and  the  seeds  in 
soups,  or  like  rice,  so  that  quinoa  there  vies  in  utility 
with  the  potato  itself.  Although  the  plant  had  been  known 
in  Britain  for  a  number  of  years,  it  was  only  during 
the  autumn  of  1834  that  any  considerable  portion  of  seed 
was  ripened  or  saved. in  this  country.  This  was  accom- 
plished at  Boyton  in  Wiltshire,  by  Mr.  Aylmer  Bourke 
Lambert,  tlie  well-known  patron  of  botany  and  horticul- 
ture. .  Considering  the  elevated  region  in  America  in 
which  the  quinoa  is  successfully  cultivated,  there  can 
be  no  doubt  that  its  herbage  may  be  freely  produced  in 
England  ;  but  it  seems  probable  that  in  order  to'  secure 
the  ripening  of  seeds,  it  will  be  requisite  to  place  some 
plants  close  by  a  wall  baving  a  south  or  south-west  as- 
pect, as  is  practiced,  with  seedling  onions ;  more  especi- 
ally since  we  arc  warned  by  Willdenow  that  in  Germany 
"semina  sub  dionon  semper  perficit."  There  are  two 
varie4:ies,  the  common  white-seeded  or  green  quinoa,  and 
the  dark-seeded  or  red  quinoa,  the  former  seemingly 
the  more  hardy,  or  at  least  germinating  most  freely. 


210  KITCHEN  GAUDEN. 

In  the  United  States,  the  seed  of  Quinoa  may  be 
sown  thinly,  about  the  first  of  April,  in  rows  an  inch 
deep  and  about  two  feet  apart.  In  a  green  state,  the 
seed-pods  make  an  excellent  pickle.  It  has  been 
raised,  in  the  vicinity  of  Baltimore,  by  Mr.  Gideon  B. 
Smith,  who  found  it  very  productive.-  It  is  cultivated 
in  Peru  and  Chili  a's  a  grain  crop,- from  whence  its  com- 
mon name  of  Peruvian  Rice,  Eor  further  particulars 
in  regard  to  this  plant,  the  modes  of  preparing  it  as 
food,  &c.,  see  Farmers'  and  Planters'  3net/clopdedia, 
article  Quinoa. 

Garden  Orache  {Atriplex  liortensis),  Wild  Spinach 
{Chenopodium Bonus  Henricus),  and  Ga^den'Patience 
{Rumex  Patientia),  are  sometimes  used  in  place  of 
common  spinach ;  but  as,  in  England  at  least,  they  are 
deemed  rather  curious  than  useful,  it  may  be  suflScient 
merely  to  indicate  their  names. 

Corn  Salad  {Fedia  OUtoria),  called  also  Fettitus, 
or  Lambs'  Lettuce,  is  extensively  cultivated  and  used 
in  the  United  States  as  a  spring  raw  salad.  In  France, 
they  often  boiP  and  dress  it  like  spiiiachi      [^ 

The  seed  is  usually  sown,  about-  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember, in  shallow  drills,  six  inches  apart,  and  covered 
lightly.  Keep  clear  of  weeds,  and  in  November  cover 
liglitly  with  straw  or  other  clean  litter.  In  mild  winters 
the  tender  leaves  will  be  fit  for  salad  all  the  time,  and 
should  not  be  cut,  but  plucked  with  the  fingers.  If  the 
seed  used  be  not  fresh,  it  will  frequently  be  many 
months  before  it  comes  up.  It  grows  spontaneously  in 
the  wheat-fields  in  England,  in  which  climate  it  stands 
the  winter  in  the  fields,  and  affords  early  pasturage  to 


ASPARAGUS.  211 

sheep  and  lambs,  from  wliicli  last  circumstance  it  de- 
rives one  of  its  common  names. 

Asparaginous  Plants. 

Asparagus  {Asparagus  officinalis)  is  a  perennial 
plant,  a  native  of  the  shx)res  of  Britain,  w.here  it  occurs 
sparingly,  and  of  the  steppes  in  the.  east  of  EuropjO. 
Though  somewhat  unpromising  while  in  a  state  of  na- 
ture, it  ^affords,  in  cultivation,  an  esculent  of  considerable 
Value,  and  is  therefore  grown  extensively  both  in  pri- 
vate and  in  sale  gardens.  The  principal  varieties  are 
the  rcdtopijed  and  the  green-topijcd,  of  which  the  latter, 
while  it  is  less  succulent,  is  considered  the  better  fla- 
vored. There  are  numerous  subvarieties,  such  as  the 
Battersea,  Gravesend,  Giant,  &c.,  which  differ  only 
slightly  from  those  already  meiltioned. 

Asparagus,  growing  naturally  on  loose  sand,  should 
have  a  light,  deep  soil,  through  which  it  maybe  able  to 
shoot  its  long  stringy  roots.  Two  feet  and  a  half  is 
considered  a  desirable  depth,  but  in  France  the  ground 
is  sometimes  prepared,  by  trenching- and  sifting,  to  the 
double  of  thut  depth.  A  considerable  'portion  of  old 
dung  or  of  recent  sea-weed  is  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench  ;  arid  another  top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure 
should  be  digged  in  preparatory  to  pknting  or  sowing. 
The  older  horticulturists  used  to  grow  their  asparagus 
in  beds  four  or  five  feet  wide,  with  intervening  alleys 
of  about  eighteen  inches  in  breadth.  At 'present,  in 
Scotland,  it  is  customary  to  sow  or  plant  in  rows  from 
three  to  four  feet  asunder,  a  method  which,  in  every 
way,  is  found  to  be  most  convenient.  Except  where 
the  garden  is  new,  when,  of  course,  it  is- advantageous 


212  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

to  procure  a  supply  of  ready-grown  plants,  it  is  thought 
preferable  to  keep  up  the  stock  of  asparagus  by  sowing. 

The  sowing  is  made  in  March,  in  slight  drills  ;  and, 
as  a  portion  of  the  seed  often  fails  to  germinate,  it  is  a 
good  precaution  to  employ  about  double  the  quantity  of 
seed  that  may  be  ultimately  necessary.  If  the  plants 
come  up  too  thickly,  they  may  be  thinned  out  towards 
the  end  of  the  first  summer,  to  the  distance  of  about  six 
inches  in  the  rows..  The  ground  is  hoed  and  kept  clear 
of  weeds.  It  is  a  common  practice  in  England  to  take 
slight  crops  of  onions,  lettuce,  cauliflower,  or  turnip, 
between  the  lines  of  asparagus  during  the  first,  and,  if 
the  rows  be  wide,  also  in  the  second  year.  The  young 
heads  or  stalks,  the  part  used,  should  not  be  cut  before 
the  third  spring,  and  they  are  not  in  perfection  till  the 
fourth  or  fifth. 

The  asparagus  quarter  can  scarcely.be  oyer-manured. 
The  proper  time  to  perform  this  operation  is  in  the  end 
of  autumn,  when  the  annual  flower-stalks  are  removed, 
preparatory  for  winter.  When  beds  are  employed,  their 
surface  should  be  stirred  with  a  fork ;  a  layer  of  well- 
rotted  hotbed  dung  is  then  laid  on,  and  the  whote 
covered  with  a  sprinkling  of  earth  from  the  alleys.  If 
the  plants  are  grown  in  rows,  the  manure  is  simply  dug 
in  by  means  of  a  three-pronged  fork,  care  being  taken 
not  to  injure  the  roots.  This  operation  is  repeated  an- 
nually, and  no.  other  culture  is  required.  I^  is  necessary 
to,observe  a  due  moderation  in  reaping  the  crop,  as  the 
shoots,  when  much  cut,  become  progressively  smaller 
and  less  valuable.  Hence  it  is  a  general  rule  with  gar- 
deners never  to  gather  asparagus  after  peas  have  be- 
gun to  come  into  season.  Thus  managed,  a.  bed  will 
continue  productive  for  a  number  of  years. 


ASPARAGUS.  213 

Asparagus' readily  admits  othe'mg  forced.  The  most 
common  method  in  England  is  to  prepare,  early  in  the 
year,  a  moderate  hotbed  of  stable-litter,  and  to  cover  it 
with  a  common  frame.  After  the  heat  of  fermentation 
has  somewhat  subsided,  the  surface  of  the  bed  is  lined 
with  turf,  to  prevent  the  escape  of  vapor;  a  layer  of 
light  earth  or  exhausted  tan-bark  is  put  over  the' turf, 
and  in  this  the  roots  of  asparagus  plants  five  or  six 
years  old  are  closely  placed.  The  crowns  of  the  roots 
are  then  covered  with  two  or  three  inches  of  soil.  A 
common  three-light  frame  may  hold  500  or  600  plants, 
and  will  afford  a  supply  for  several  weeks.  After  plant- 
ing, linings  are  applied  when  necessary,  and  air  is  occa- 
sionally admitted.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  scorch 
the  roots.  Where  there  are  pits  for  the  culture  of  late 
melons  or  succession  pine-plants,  such  as  the  Alder- 
ston-pit,  or  the  succession-pit  with  the  hot  water  cir- 
culation, they  may  advantageously  be  applied  to  this 
purpose. 

It  has  sometimes  been  recommended  to^  force  aspara- 
gus on  the  ground  on  which  it  grows.  Perhaps  the  best 
method  is  that  suggested  by  Mr.  Spiers,  in  vol.  iv.  of 
the  G-ardener'^s  Mac^azine.  The  seed  is  sown  in  beds 
four  feet  eight  inches  wide,  and  there  are  four  rows  of 
plants  eleven  inches  asunder  in  the  beds.  The  beds 
are  to  have  side  trenches,  two  feet  wide,  ^nd  two  feet, 
deep,  lined  by  pigeon-hole  brickwork — an  operation 
which  We  presume  need  not  be  performed  till  imme- 
diately before  forcing,- that  is,  when  the  plants  are  at 
least  three  years  old*  In  October,  when  the  stalks  are 
cleared  away,  the  _surface  is  covered  with  straw-litter. 
When  forcing  is-  commenced,  the  brick-lined  trenches 
are  filled  with  hot  stable-dung,  well  beaten,  to  about 
19 


214  ^KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

eighteen  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The 
bed  is  also  covered  with  prepared  dung*  In  about 
twelve  days,  when  the  buds  have  begun  to  appear,  the 
latter  covering  is  removed,  glazed  frames  are  placed, 
resting  upon  the  brickwork,  a  little  fine  soil  is  sifted 
over  the  plunts,  the  linings  in  the  trenches  are  raised 
higher,  and  the  whole  treated  like  a  common  hotbed. 
In  this  way,  we  are  informed,  excellent  supplies  may 
be  obtained,  and  the  plants  may  be  forced  every  year. 

Before  leaving  this  subject,  it  may  be  mentioned  that 
about  Bath  the  young  flower-spikes  of  Ornitliogalum 
fpyrenaicum^  found  native  in  that  neighborhood,  are 
used  like  asparagus,  under  the  name  Prussian  G-rass. 

Much  time  may  be  saved  in  getting  full-bearing  beds, 
if,- instead  of  sowing  the  seed,  the  roots  be  set  out,  a 
practice  commonly  resorted  to  in  the  United  States, 
where  the  young  roots  are  a  regular  marketable  ar- 
ticle. '  The  soil  should  be  a  loam,  at  least  two  feet  deep, 
and  cannot  well  be  made  too  rich.  The  beds  should  be 
about  four  feet  wide  with  two  feet  alleys  between.  The 
roots,  when  taken  up,  must  not  be  long  exposed  to  the 
air,  so  as  to  get  dry,  and  should  be  deposited  in  rows 
drawn  with  a  line  stretched  lengthwise  on  the  bed, 
about  twelve  inches  asunder,  beginning  nine  inches  from 
the  edge.  The  small  trench  or  furrows  may  be  about 
three  inches  deqp,  and  the  roots  set  in  these  about  nine 
inches  apart,  are  to  be  covered  with  the  fine  earth 
thrown  out"  in  making  the  furrows.  ■  The  cultivation 
durilig  the  .first  season  consists  merely  in  keeping  down 
the  weeds  and  grass.  The  succeeding -winter,  cover 
three  or  four  inches  deep  with  well-rotted  manure. 
In  order  to  secure  the  formation  of  strong  crowns,  the 
plants  are  allowed  during  the  first  two  summers  to  run 


SEA-KALE.  215 

up  to  stalks.  After  the  third  year,  the  stalks  should 
be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground,  the  beds  kept  clean 
from  weeds,  and  in  winter  covered  with  two  or  three 
inches  of  manure.  As  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  frost 
is  out  of  the  ground,  the  earth  in  the  beds  should  be 
loosened  by  means  of  a  fork  introduced  into  the  soil  to 
the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches,  turning  up  the  earth 
carefully,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Trim  off  the 
edges  of  the  beds,  so  as  to  make  them  even.  .  A  full 
crop  may  be  expected  the  fourth  season  after  planting. 
Cutting' should  not  be  continued  after,  the  middle  of 
June.  Beds  well  situated  and  properly  managed  will 
continue  to  yield  good  crops  for  twelve  or  fifteen  years. 
Salt  and  brine  will  be  found  extremely  valuable  appli- 
cations to  the  asparagus  beds,  and  should  be  put  on  in 
winter. 

Sea-Kale  [Qraynhe-maritima)  is  a  perennial  plant, 
growing  spontaneously  on  the  shores  of  the  southern 
parts  of  England.  The  roots  are  spreading,  the  leaves 
wav^d,  glaucous,-  and  covered  with  a  fine  mealy  bloom, 
and  the  stalks  rise  to  about_two  feet  high,  bearing  white 
flowers,  which  smell  of  honey,  followed  by  seed-pods, 
each  containing  a  single  seed. 

The  country  people  in  the  west  of  England  have  long 
been  accustomed  to  use  in  spi'ing  the  young  shoots, 
which,  by  passing  through  the  sand  and  gravel  on 
which  they  grow,  are  somewdiat  blanched  and  rendered 
tender.  In  conformity  with  this  practice,  the  cultiva- 
tion formerly  recommended  consisted  merely  in  cover- 
ing the  beds  on  the  approach  of  spring  with  a  little  dry 
earth  or  sand,  in  order  to  the  blanching  or  internating 
of  the   shoots.     These  Avere   cut   as   they  appeared'  in 


216  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

March  and  April.  Now,  however,  the  blanching  is  not 
only  much  more  completely  effected,  but  simple  means 
have  been  devised  for  supplying  the  table  for  half  the 
year,  includin-g  all  the  winter  months.  It  has  within 
these  few  years  become  a  vegetable  of  common  oc- 
currence in  the  markets  both  of  London  and  Edin- 
burgh. 

Sea-kale  seems  partial  to  a  light  dry  soil.  If  manure 
be  added,  it  should  consist  of  sea-weed  or  half-rotted 
leaves  of  trees.  The  plants  may  be  propagated  by  off- 
sets, or  small  pieces  of  the  roots  having  buds  or  eyes 
attached  to  them ;  but  the  most  eligible  method  is  by 
seed.  Very  tolerable  blanched  stalks  are  sometimes 
produced  by  plants  only  nine  months  old  from  the  seed, 
and  after  two  summers,  seedling  plants  will  have  ac- 
quired sufficient  strength  for  general  cropping.  The 
sowing  is  made  in  March,  the  seeds  being'  deposited  in 
patches  of  three  or  four  together:  the  patches  are  ar- 
ranged in  lines  three  feet  apart,  and  two  feet  in  the 
line.  In  order  to  secure  a  succession,  and  to  obviate 
the  bad  effects  of  forcing,  it  is  proper  to  sow  a  few  lines 
of  sea-kale  every  year. 

Various  modes  of  blanching  the  shoots  have  been  re- 
sorted to.  In  the  first  volume  of  the  Memoirs  of  the 
Oaledo7iian  Horticultural  Society^  Sir  George  S.  Mac- 
kenzie describes  a  very  convenient  method.  The  sea- 
kale  bed  is  merely  covered,  early  in  spring,  with  clean 
and  dry  oat-straw,  which  is  removed  as  often  as  it  be- 
comes musty.  The  shoots  rise  through  the  straw,  and 
are  at  the  same  time  pretty  well  blanched.  Others 
employ  dried  'tree-leaves  for  -this  purpose.  Another 
method,  practiced  by  many  gardeners  consists  ^in 
placing  over  each  plant  a  flower-pot  of  the  largest  size 


SEA-KALE.  21-7 

inyerted;  but  conYcment  blanching -pots,  with  movable 
lids,  have  been  constructed  for  the  express  purpose. 
It  may  be  proper  to  provide  from  thirty  to  sixty  such 
pots;  and  it  may  be  expected  that  each  pot  will,  on  an 
average,  furnish  a  dish  and  a  half  of  shoots  during  the 
season. 

With  the  aid  of  these  pots,  sea-kale  is /or(?^(^  in  the 
open  border  in  the  way  now  to  be  described.  ^  In  the 
latter  end  of  autumn  a  bed  of  vigorous  sea-kale  plants 
is  dressed,  that  is,  the  stalks  are  cut  over,  and  the  de- 
cayed leaves  are  removed.  The  ground  is,  at  the  same 
time,  loosened  about  the  eyes,  and  a  thin  stratum  of 
gravel  or  sifted  coal-ashes  is  laid  on  the  surface  to  keep 
down  earth-worms.  A  pot  with  a  movable  cover  is 
placed  over  each  plant  or  each  patch  of  plants.  Stable- 
litter  is  then  closely  packed  all  round  the  pots,  and 
raised  up  to  about  a  foot  above  them;  the  whole  bed 
thus  assuming  the  form  and  appearance  of  a  large  hot- 
bed. When  fermentation  begins,  a  thermometer  should 
be  occasionally  introduced  into  a  few  of  the  pots,  to 
ascertain  that  the  temperature  within  does  not  exceed 
60°  Fahrenheit,  and  the  depth  of  the  litter  is  to  be  re- 
gulated accordingly.  The  vegetation  of  the  included 
plants  is  speedily  promoted;  so  that,  in  the  space  of 
a  month  or  six  weeks,  the  shoots  will  be  ready  for  cut- 
ting, which  being  thus  excluded  from  the  light,  are 
most  effectually  blanched,  and  found  to  be  exceedingly 
tender  and  crisp.  By  means  of  the  movable  lids,  the 
plants  are  examined  and  the  shoots  gathered  without 
materially  disturbing  the  litter.  By  commencing  the 
litter  coverings,  at  various  times,  on  different  portions 
of  the  quarter,  a  supply  of  sea-kale  for  the  table  can  be 

19* 


218  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

readily  furnished  from  the  middle  of  November  till  the 
middle  of  May. 

This  vegetable,  though  not  as  well  known  in  the 
United  States  as  it  deserves  to  be,  can  be  raised  with 
very  little  trouble.  The  seed  may  be  sown  thinly  in 
March  or  in  April,  in  drills  about  a  foot  apart,  and 
-covered  about  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  begin 
to  grow,  thin  out  so  as  to  leave -them  at  first  an  inch, 
and  afterwards  two  or  three  inches  apart.  In  November, 
cover  the  crowns  of  the  roots  with  earth  raised  a  few 
riches.  Early  in  the  following  spring,  prepare  a  bed 
similar  to  that  intended  for  asparagus,  digging  the.  soil 
at  least  fifteen  inches  deep.  Set  out  the  plants,  about 
two  feet  apart,  the  crown  of  each  root  being  placed 
about  two  inches  below  the  level  of  the  bed.  The  beds 
will  continue  to  produce  as  long  as  those  of  asparagus, 
and  like  this  are  greatly  improved  by  applications  of 
salt  and  brine:  The  plants  should  not  be  allowed  to 
go  to  seed.  This  vegetable  is  in  season  from  Christmas 
to  April. 

The  Artichoke  {Oynara  Soohjmus)  is  a  perennial 
plant,  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  and  a  well-known 
inhabitant  of  our  gardens.  It  resembles  a  thistle  on  a 
large  scale.  In  France,  the  entire  head  or  whole  leaves 
of  the  involucre  of  the  artichoke  are  eaten,  when  in  a 
young  and  tender  state,  en  poivrade,  or  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  vinegar ;  but  in  England,  the  only  parts  used 
are  the  base  of  the  leaves  of  the  calyx,  and  the  imma- 
ture receptacle,  or  phoranthium,  commonly  called  the 
bottom,  heQdi  from  the  bristly  seed-down  which  has  been 
called  the  chohe.  The  varieties  are  the  Conical  or  French, 
the  Globe  or  Red  artichoke,  and  the  Dwarf  globe.     Of 


THE  ARTICHOKE.  .  219 

these  the  first  is  the  highest  flavored,  the  second  is  well 
for  a  general  crop,  and  the  third  is  prolific,  and  occupies 
little  room. 

The  artichoke  requires  a  deep,  cool,  dry  soil.  It  is 
propagated  by  parting  the  roots  in  April,  the  sets  being 
planted  in  rows  four  or  five  feet  asunder,  and  two  feet 
apart  in  the  rows.  The  young  plants  generally  afford  a 
crop  which  succeeds  that  of  old  plants ;  and  for  this 
reason  a  new  plantation  is  made  in  some  gardens  every 
year.  During  summer  the  plants  are  to  be  kept  clear 
of  weeds,  but  require  little  other  attention.  In  No- 
vember the  decay  stems  and  leaves  are  removed,  and 
the  ground  cleared.  Sometimes  the  earth  is  ridged 
slightly  around  the  roots,  in  order  to  defend  the  stools 
from  the  frost.  This,  however^  is  done  more  effectually 
by  ^  litter  of  straw,  or  of  the  refuse  of  the  stable-yard, 
of  the  depth  of  a  foot,  drawn  close  round  the  base  of 
the  leaves.  In  April  this  litter  is  taken  away,  the  stools 
are  examined,  and  two-  or  three  only  of  the  strongest 
shoots  are  permitted  to  remain.  The  offsets,  which  are 
carefully  removed,  afford  materials  for  a  young  planta- 
tion. In  the  north  of  Prance,  where  a  severe  winter 
is  apt  wholly  to  destroy  the  artichoke  quarter,  it  has 
been-  found  advantageous  to  take  up  at  the  commence- 
ment of  winter  a  number  of  the  most  vigorous  stools, 
with  the  eyes  or  buds  entire,  and  to  store  them  in  a 
cellar  free  from-  the  influence  of  frost.  They  are  re- 
planted in  the  spring ;  and  not  only  do  they  grow  well, 
but*M.  Vilmorin  mentions  that  they  afford  an  earlier 
crop  than  the  shoots  left  in  the  ground.  In  the  spring, 
the  ground  between  the  rows  is  digged  over.  At  this 
time  manure  may  be,  applied ;  well-rotted  hotbed  dung, 
andj  above  all,  sea  weeds,  being  considered  preferable. 


220  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

The  Cardoon  {Cynara  Cardunculus)  is  a  perennial 
plant,  a  native  of  the  south  of  France  and  Spain.  It 
has  a  close  resemblance  to  the  artichoke,  but  surpasses 
it  in  size.  The  edible  part  or  chard,  as  it  is  called,  is 
composed  of  the  blanched  and  crisp  stalks  of  the  inner 
leaves.  Besides  the  common  sort,  there  is  a  kind  called 
the  Spanish  Cardoon,  which  many  prefer  ;  and  also  a 
prickly  variety,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Cardoon  of 
Tours,  and  much  used  on  the  Continent.  The  common 
artichoke  is  likewise  employed  occasionally  for  the  pro- 
duction of  chard'.  Cardoons  are  foun^d  to  prosper  best  eii 
light  deep  soil.  The  seed  is  sown  annually  about  the  mid- 
dle of  May,  in  shallow  trenches,  like  those  for  celery,  and 
the  plants  are  thinned  out  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  from 
each  other  in  the  lines.  In  dry  weather  water  is  co- 
piously supplied,  not  only  to  increase  the  succulence  of 
the  leaves,  but  to  prevent  the  formation  of  flower-stalks, 
which  render  the  plant  useless.  In  autumn  the  leaves 
are  applied  close  to  each  other,  and  wrapped  round  with 
bands  of  hay  or-  straw,  the  points  of  the  leaves  only 
being  left  free.  Earth  is  then  drawn  up  around  the 
leaf-stems  to  the  height  of  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches. 
Sometimes  cardoons  are  blanched  by  a  more  thorough 
earthing  up,  in  the  manner  of  celery  ;  but  in  this  case 
the  operation  must  be  commenced  in  summer,  and  re- 
gularly carried  on  through  the  autumn.  During  severe 
frost  the  tops  of  the  leaves'  should  be  defended  with 
straw  or  haulm. 

The  Rampion  [Camiyanula  Hapunculus)  is  an  Eng- 
lish native  biennial,  the  roots  of  which,  under  the  name 
of  ramps,  are  used  raw  as  a  salad,  or  boiled  like  aspara- 
gus.    It  is    but  little    cultivated  in  Britain.     Where, 


LETTUCE.  221 

however,  it  is  desired,  the  seed  is  sown  broadcast,  about 
the  beginning  of  June,  in  a  cool  situation,  and  the  young 
plants  are  merely  thinned  and  kept  clear  of  weeds.  On 
the  approach  of  frost,  the  roots,  which  somewhat  re- 
semble small  radishes,  are  stored  in  sand,  and  will  keep 
fresh  and  firm  till  spring. 


Salads. 


Lettuce  {Lactuca  sativa)  is  a  hardy  annual,  but  of 
what  country  it  is  a  native  is  unknown.  Some  suppose 
it  to  be  a  seminal  variety  of  the  native  L.  virosa^  a  poi- 
sonous plant,  "which,"  says  Professor  Lindley,  ''would 
not  be  more  remarkable  than  the  fact  that  the  indigenous 
celery  is  one  of  our  strongest  poisons."  Besides  its 
well-known  uses,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the  late  Dr. 
Dundan,  Senior,  of  Edinburgh,  prepared  from  its  milky 
juice  a  medicine  denominated  Lactucarium,  similar  in 
its  action  to  opium,  but  capable  of  being- administered 
in  cases  where  idiosyncratic  repugnance  rendered  that 
.powerful  drug  inadmissible.  There  are  two  principal 
varieties,  the  Cos  or  upright,  and  the  round-lieaded  or 
Cabbage  lettuce.  The  subvarieties  are  numerous  :  we 
may  mention  the  following  :^— 

Upright.  Round. 

Black-seeded  Cos.  White  Cabbage. 

Bath  Cos.  Brown  Dutch. 

White  Cos.  Marseilles. 

Crov.-n  Cos.  Grand  Admirable. 

By  proper  care,  fresh  lettuce  may  be  had  tliroughout 
the  whole  year.  The  first  sowing  is  made  in  January, 
in  some  sheltered  situation,  or  under  hand-glasses,  or 
in  February  on  a  gentle  hotbed.  The  seedlings  are 
transplanted  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit.     A 


222  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

second  sowing  may  be  made  in  the  beginning  of  March, 
and  another  in  April.  Of  all  culinary  crops,  lettuce  is 
reckoned  the  least  exhausting,  some  gardeners,  indeed, 
regarding  it  as  tending  to  enrich  rather  than  impoverish 
the  soil:  it' may  therefore  be  raised  on  the  fruit-tree 
borders.  Besides  the  ordinary  compartment,  the  seed- 
ling's may  be  planted  on  celery  ridges,  between  rows  of 
slight  crops  of  other  vegetables,  and,  in  short,  in  any 
odd  corner  which  may  occur.  To  obtain  a  winter  sup- 
ply, a  sow^ing  of  some  of  the  more  hardy  varieties,  such 
as  the  Black-seeded  green,  or  Bath  Cos,  and  the"Brown 
Dutch,  is  made  in  August  or  September,  and  the  plants 
are  pricked  out  in  October,  along  the  bottom  of  walls, 
or  under  glazed  frames. 

Endive  {Cichorhim  Endivia)  is  an  annual  plant,  a 
native  of  China,  from  which  it  was  introduced  in  1548. 
It  is  the  lettuce  of  winter,  the  blanched  hearts  being 
used  for  salads  and  in  soups.  The  varieties  most  com- 
monly cultivated  in  England  are  the  Broad-leaved  Ba- 
tavian  and  Small  Batavian,  the  Green  Cifrled-leaved 
and  the  White  Curled-leaved.  By  the  French,  the 
former  are  called  Scarioles ;  the  latter,  C/c/iorees.  A 
sowing  may  be  made  in  the  beginning  of  June,  and 
another  in  July,  the  seeds  being  scattered  very  sparsely, 
that  the  plants  may  not  come  up  in  clusters.  The 
seedlings  are  transplanted  into  a  rich  soil,  where  they 
are  arranged  in  rows  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  asunder, 
and  at  the  distance  of  ten  inches  in  the  row.  Some- 
times they  are  planted  in  drills  to  facilitate  the  opera- 
tion of  blanching.  The  later  crop  should  be  placed 
in  a  sheltered  situation,  where  it  may  be  able  to.  w^ith- 
stand  the  winter,  which  it  will  do,  unless  the  frost  prove 


succoiiY.  223 

very  intense.  When  the  plants  have  reached  their 
maturity,  the  leaves  are  gathered  up,  and  tied  together 
an  inch  or  two  below  the  tips,  and  afterwards  about  the 
middle  of  .the  plant.  In  two  or  three  weeks  they  are 
found  sufficiently 'blanched  for  use.-  In  wiater  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  draw  the  earth  quite  up  about  the  leaves. 
At  that  season,  too,  the  plants  may  be  inserted  into  a 
sloping  bank  of  earth,  or  blanched  in  boxes  in  the 
mushroom-house  or  in  a  cellar. 

Succory  (Oiehoriurfi  Intt/hus)  h  in  England  an  in- 
digenous perennial  plant,  the  cultivation  of  which,  for 
culinary  purposes,  may  be  said  to  have  been  introduced 
into  Britain  by  the  refugees  during' tbje  French  revolu- 
tionary war.  By  the  French  it  is  much  esteemed  as  a 
winter  salady  and  being  often  asked  for  .by  foreign  coot;s, 
a  small  portion  should  be  raised  in  every  large  garden 
establishment.  When  blanched,  it  is.  known,  by  the 
name  oi  Barhe  die  CajmcJmi.  W^hen  succory  is  culti- 
vated in  the  garden  for  winter  use,  the,  seed  is  sown  in 
May  or  June,  commonly  in  drills,  and  the  plants  are 
thinned  out  to  four  inches  apart.  If  the  first  set  of 
leaves  grow  very  strong,  owing  to  wet  weather,  they, 
are  cut  off  perhaps  in  the  middle  of  August,  about  an 
inch  from  the  ground,  so  as  to  promote  the  production 
of  new  leaves,  and  check  the  formation  of  flower-stems. 
About  the  beginning  of  October  the  plants  are  raised 
from  the  border  *  all  the  large  leaves  are  cut  off ;  the 
roots  are  also  shortened.  They  are  then  planted  pretty 
closely  together  in  boxes  filled  Avith  rich  light  mould, 
and  watered  when  nejcdful.  When  frost  comes  on,  the 
boxes  are  protected  by  any  kind  of  haulm.  As  the 
salad  is  wanted,  they  are  removed  into  some  place  hav- 


224  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

ing  a  moderately  increased  temperature,  but  with  little 
light,  such  as  a  mushroom-houseor  cellar  off  the  kitchen. 
Each  box  affords  two  crops  of  blanched  leaves,  and 
these  are  reckoned  fit  for  cutting  when  about  six  inches 
long.  A  neat  mode  of  producing  the  h(;irhe  in  any 
common  dark  cellar,  from  whence  frost  is  excluded,  is 
described  in  the  Horticultural  Tour,  p.  368.  The  suc- 
cory roots  are  packed  among  moist  sand,  in  a  barrel,  in 
the  sides  of  which  numerous  round  holes  have  been 
pierced,  each  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter. 
The  crowns  of  the  roots  are  so  placed  that  the  shoots 
may  readily  push  their  way  through  tlie  openings  ;  "they 
are  thu^  kept  quite  clean,  and  are  delicately  blanched ; 
they  ca-n  be  very  easily  gathered  as  wanted,  and  re- 
peated cuttings  are  afforded  during  winter  and  early 
spring.  There  is  a  Continental  variety  of  succory  hav- 
ing larger  rox)ts  than  usual,  and  known  by  the  name  of 
OMecoree  a  ■  Cafe,  the  tuberous  roots  of  which,  dried, 
and  cut  into  little  pieces,  were,  during  the  great  war, 
frequently  employed  as  a  substitute  for  coffee-beans, 
and  in  Flanders,  and  some  parts  of  France,  a  portion 
of  them  is  still  very  often  mixed  with  coffee. 

Parsley  (A2?m7n  Petroselinum)  is  a  biennial  plant,  of 
well-known  use  in  cookery.  It  is  said  to  be  a  native  of 
Sardinia,  but  it  now  grows  spontaneously  in  various  parts 
of  Britain.  The  varieties  are,  the  Commpa,  the  Curled- 
leaved,  and  the  Hamburg,  the  last  of  which  is  cultivated 
for  the  sake  of  its  tuberous  roots.  The  curled-leaved 
is  the  most  ornamental,  and  it  possesses  the  advantage 
of  being-  readily,  distinguished  from  the  poisonous 
^thusa,  which  resembles  the  common  parsley.  Parsley 
prefers  a  light,  rich  soil.     It  is  sown  in  drills  about  the 


CELERY.  225 

beginning  of  March,  and  the  seed  lies  some  weeks  in 
the  ground  before  the  plants  appear.  As  they  grow  up 
they  are  thinned  out,  and  they  are  defended  by  branches 
or  other  coverings  from  hard  weather  in  winter.  The 
Hamburgh  variety  is  sown  about  the  same  time  in 
a.  well-trenched  soil,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  it  is 
thinned  to  about  nine  inches  in  the  rows.  In  the  be- 
ginning of  November,  the  roots  are  taken  up  and  stored 
in  sand. 

Celery  [Apium  graveolens)  is  a  native  British  bien- 
nial, an  inhabitant  of  the  sides  of  ditches  near  the  sea. 
In  its  wild  state,  it  is  of  an  acrid  nature,  and  of  a  coarse 
rank  flavor;  but  by  cultivation  it  is  improved  into 
one  of  the  most  agreeable  salads.  There  are  two  prin- 
cipal varieties  ;  celery,  properly  so  called,  with  upright 
stalks  and  fibrous  or  slightly  tuberous  roots  ;  and  cele- 
riao,  with  large  turnip-shaped  roots.  Of  the  former, 
the  principal  subvarieties  are,  the  Italian,  the  Red 
Solid,  and  the  White  Solid,  of  which  the  second  and 
third  are  the  best. 

In  England,  celery  is  usually  sown  at  three  difierent 
times:  on  a  hotbed  in  the  beginning  of  March,  and  in 
the  open  ground  in  March,  and  again  in  April.  The 
seedlings,  when  about  two  inches  high,  are  pricked  into 
rich  soil,  in  which  they  are  allowed  to  stand  till  they 
be  four  or  five  inches  high.  The  first  crop  is  defended 
by  frames  or  hand-glasses,  and  is  planted  wide,  to  admit 
-of  being  lifted  with  balls  of  earth  adhering  to  the  roots. 
Towards  the  end  of  May,  trenches  for  blanching  the 
celery  are  prepared.  These  trenches  are  three  and  a 
half  or  four  feet  apart,  fifteen  inches  wide  at  the  bottom, 
and  about  a  foot  below  the  natural  level  of  the  surface. 
20 


226  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

The  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench  is  carefully  digged 
and  manured,  and  a  single  row  of  plants  is  placed  ia 
each  trench.  Sometimes,  when  a  large  supply  is  re- 
quired, the  trenches  are  made  six  feet  wide,  and,  after 
a  similar  preparation,  rows  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches 
apart  are  planted^ across  the  trenches.  As  the  plants 
advance  in  growth,  earth  is  laid  up  about  the  stalks  of 
the  leaves,  an  operation  which  is  repeated  at  the  end 
of  every  ten  or  fifteen  days,  care  being  taken  not  to 
choke  the  plants.  As  the  celery  approaches  maturity, 
scarcely  anything  but  the  tips  of  the  leaves  appear  above 
the  ridges,  and,  when  lifted,  the  stalks  are  found  to  be 
completely  blanched.  Successional  crops  should  then 
be  planted  out.  Celery  succeeds  best  in  a  rich,  light 
soil,  having  an  abundance  of  moisture. 

In  the  United  States,  the  Red  Solid  or  Manchester 
Red  variety  of  celery  is  found  to  resist  the  frost  better 
than  the  White  Solid,  which  last  is,  however,  the  most 
crisp  and  delicately  flavored. 

Oeleriac,  or  turnip-rooted  celery  {Celeri-rave  of  the 
French),  is  treated  at  first  like  the  early  crop  of  com- 
mon celery.  In  the  beginning  or  middle  of  June  it  is 
planted  out  in  a  flat  bed,  in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart. 
A  single  earthing  afterwards  suffices.  Its  large,  round 
roots  are  used  in  soups,  and  are  much  relished  by  some. 
It  is,  however,  more  attended  to  in  France  and  the  Low 
Countries  than .  in  Britain.  There  is  a  curly-leaved 
variety,  which  seems  to  possess  no  advantage  but  its 
more  ornamental  foliage. 

Garden  Cress  {Lepidium  ativum),  of  which  the 
Normandy  curled  cress  is  .the  best  variety,  and  White 


WATER  CRESS.  227 

Mustard  {Sinapis  alba),  are  generally  associated  in 
their  use  as  salads,  and  in  their  culture  in  the  garden. 
They  are  annual  plants,  and  are  eaten  only  when  very 
young.  In  winter,  they  may  be  raised  on  a  slight  hot- 
bed; in  spring,  under  hand-glasses,  or  in  drills  near  a 
south  wall,  and  in  summer,  when  they  should  be  sown 
once  a  fortnight,  in  drills,  in  any  cool,  shady  situation. 
Table  mustard,  which  is  made  from  the  seeds  of  Sinapis 
nigra,  Lix.,  belongs  rather  to  the  department  of  agri- 
culture. Durham  mustard,  which  is  distinguished  for 
its  poignancy,  though  not  remarkable  for  fine  color,  is 
said  to  be  made  principally  from  the  seeds  of  the  com- 
mon yellow  field-mustard  or  charlock,  Sinapis  arvensis, 
LiN. 

■  Water  Cress  {Sisymbrium  nasturtium). — This  is  a 
creeping  perennial  aquatic  plant,  very  extensively  sup- 
plied in  the  English  markets.  It  requires  for  its  proper 
growth  a  clear  stream  of  shallow  water,  not  more  than 
ail  inch  and  a  half  in  depth,  running  over  clear  sand 
and  gravel.  Deep  and  still  water,  especially  if  the 
bottom  be  muddy,  is  unfavorable.  The  best  situations 
are  in  streams  near  their  sources,  where  the  water  sel- 
dom freezes  in  winter,  as  here  they  continue  to  grow 
and  may  be  gathered  all  winter.  In  planting,  the  sets 
are  put  in  rows  about  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  length- 
wise with  the  stream.  If  the  depth  of  water  be  at 
first  only  about  an  inch,  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  grow 
they  will  so  obstruct  its  course  as  soon  to  increase  it 
to  three  or  four  inches  above  the  leaves,  a  depth  re- 
garded as  highly  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  cresses. 
It  is  absolutely  requisite  that  the  water  shall  be  always 
running,  for  when  the  stream  becomes  obstructed  the 


228  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

plants  cease  to  thrive.  After  thej  are  cut  three  times 
they  begin  to  stock,  and  then  the  oftener  they  are  cut 
the  better.  The  cress  is  regarded  as  a  very  wholesome 
raw  salad  vegetable,  eaten  at  all  seasons,  but  more 
especially  in  winter  and  spring,  when  its  warm  and 
cordial  qualities  make  it  particularly  grateful.  It  is 
frequently  found  growing  spontaneously  in  streams,  and 
beds  should  be  established  wherever  there  is  a  good 
spring  of  running  water.  A  little  spot  of  low  ground, 
capable  of  being  irrigated,  can  be  turned  up  with  the 
spade  in  the  spring,  and  sown  with  seed,  or  set  out  with 
plants.  The  water  may  be  turned  on  and  off  at  plea- 
sure, and  all  the  further  culture  con&ists  in  keeping 
them  clear  of  every  kind  of  weed,  and  preventing  their 
being  injured  or  destroyed  by  drought. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that  the  wild  Pepper  Grass 
(Lepidium  virginicum),  which  grows  spontaneously  al- 
most everywhere  in  the  United  States,  is  a  species  of 
cress.  See  Farmers'  and  Planters''  Encyclopwdia,  article 
American  Cress. 

Of  Rhubarb  {Bheum),  several  species  and  many  va- 
rieties are  cultivated  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  mate- 
rials for  tarts,  the  foot-stalks  of  the  leaves  being  well 
adapted  for  that  purpose,  and  coming  into  use  at  a  most 
convenient  season,  when  apples  are  becoming  scarce. 
M.  rhaponticum  with  red  stalks,  and  palmatum  with 
green,  were  the  species  first  employed,  and  these  are 
still  occasionally  used;  but  the  sorts  now  preferred  are 
seminal  varieties,  mostly  allied  to  R.  hyhridum  and  R, 
undulatum.     The  following  are  worthy  of  notice:^ 

Wilmot's.  Buck's. 

Gigantic.  Culbertson's. 

Elford. 


RHUBARB. %  229 

Of  these,  the  editor  of  the  HoHieultural  Register  pre- 
fers the  first  two,  the  former  as  being  excellently  suited 
for  forcing,  the  latter  as  growing  to  a  large  size  without 
rankness.  The  stalks  of  Buck's  Early  and  the  Elford 
are  of  a  bright  scarlet  color,  which  they  retain  even 
when  forced  in  the  dark  ;  and  they  are  at  the  same  time 
tender  and  of  delicate  flavor.  Excellent  jam  and  jelly 
have  been  made  from  these  by  Mr.  James  M'Nab,  of 
the  Horticultural  Society's  Garden,  Edinburgh.  Of 
late,  two  new  varieties  have  eclipsed  all  former  kinds, 
viz.,  Myatt's  Victoria  and  Youell's  Tobolsk.  Both 
yield  stalks  of  great  size,  and  w^hich  yet  fall  well  when 
boiled  or  baked.  A  very  useful  variety  is  known  at 
Edinburgh  by  the  name  of  Culbertson's  Rhubarb.  It 
is  less  apt  to  shoot  into  flower  than  most  other  sorts ; 
and,  although  the  leaf-stalks  are  small,  they  are  very 
numerous.  The  rhubarbs  may  be  multiplied  by  divid- 
ing the  roots ;  and  this  is  the  common  practice ;  but 
they  thrive  much  better  when  grown  from  seed.  Mr. 
Paxton  recommends  sowing  on  a  slight  hotbed  in  spring, 
and  transplanting  out  in  rows  in  the  month  of  May. 
Formerly  no  stalks  were  gathered  from  the  seedling 
plants  for  the  first  two  years ;  but  Myatt's  Victoria 
^rows  so  rapidly  as  to  permit  cutting  even  in  the  first 
season.  A  rich  but  porous  soil  suits  the  plant  best. 
Where  liquid  manure  can  be  applied  to  a  light  soil,  the 
leaves  attain  a  very  large  size.  A  portion  of  the  crop 
is  allowed  to  come  on  under  the  general  influence  of  the 
season ;  but  much  also  is  forced,  which  may  be  done  in 
a  variety  of  w^ays.  Some  treat  rhubarb  like  sea-kale, 
covering  the  roots  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  with 
large  pots  or  boxes,  and  surrounding  them  with  fer- 
menting  stable-litter.      Others  take  up    the    roots    in 

20-'^ 


230  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

autumn,  pot  them,  and  force  them  in  vineries  or  hot- 
beds. Perhaps  the  best  method  is  to  procure  long  nar- 
row boxes,  of  a  moderate  depth,  and  to  place  them, 
packed  full. of  roots,  in  a  mushroom-house  or  cellar, 
where  there  is  considerable  temperature.  The  rhubarb 
soon  throws  up  its  stalks;  and  these,  being  partially 
etiolated,  possess  a  delicacy  and  flavor  superior  to  those 
grown  in  the  open  air.  It  is  easy,  by  varying  the  time 
of  subjecting  the  boxes  to  the  increased  temperature,  to 
keep  up  a  succession  of  rhubarb  stalks,  from  the  period 
at  which  kitchen  apples  become  scarce  or  begin  to  lose 
their  flavor  till  green  gooseberries  come  into  season. 

3Ielons. 

Under  this  common  name  are  embraced  both  the 
Water-melon  and  the  Musk-melon,  or  Cantaloupe,  al- 
though so  essentially  diiferent  in  botanical  characters 
as  to  belong  to  different  families. 

-  Water-Melon  (CuGurUta  Oitrulhis). — This  refresh- 
ing tropical  fruit  perfects  itself  in  the  open  air  in  almost 
every  portion  of  the  Middle  and  Southern  States,  espe- 
cially in  the  latter.  It  requires  a  light  sandy  soil  and 
plenty  of  heat,  and  will  not  succeed  in  tenacious  soils  or 
or  cool  situations.  It  is  planted  in  hills,  which,  owing  to 
the  great  distance  to  which  the  runners  extend,  ought 
to  be  eight  feet  apart.  The  seed  are  best  when  two 
years  old,  and  one  ounce  will  be  sufficient  to  plant  from 
forty  to  fifty  hills.  AVhen  wanted  of  very  large  size, 
but  three  or  four  melons  should  be  left  to  each  vine. 
By  such  thinning  they  may,  in  good  seasons  and  situa- 
tions, be  brought  to  weigh  twenty-five  and  thirty  pounds 
each.     There  are  many  varieties  known  in  the  Phila- 


cantaloupe".  231 

delphia  market,  such  as  the  Carolina,  Spanish,  Long 
Green,  Mountain  Sweet,  etc.  These  have  all  red  pulp, 
and  the  last-named  is  much  superior  to  the  others.  There 
are  other  varieties  with  yellow  or  light-colored  pulp. 

Cantaloupe. — These  come  to  great  perfection  in  the 
open  air  throughout  the  Southern  and  Middle  States, 
wherever  the  soil  is  favorable.  The  light  sandy  allu- 
vials  of  New  Jersey  are  very  favorable  to  their  growth. 
There  are  many  varieties,  no  less  than  fourteen  of 
which,  the  best  known  in  England,  will  be  found  enu- 
merated under  the  head  of  Melon^  in  the  portion  of  this 
treatise  relating  to  the  operations  of  the  forcing  garden. 

The  old-fashioned  Blush-melon,  with  its  smooth  and 
yellow  rind,  slightly  ribbed,  although  once  very  exten- 
sively cultivated,  has  given  place  to  the  better-flavored 
Nutmeg^  Cantaloupe,  and  HocJc-melon,  with  rough  rind 
and  greener  and  firmer  flesh,  and  the  Netted  Citron. 
This  last,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  raised  net- 
like appearance  on  its  outer  surface,  is  of  an  oval  form. 
When  well  grown,  specimens  will  often  weigh  from  two 
to  five  pounds.  The -flesh  is  of  a  greenish  color,  firm, 
yet  juicy,  and  high  flavored.  When  in  its  greatest 
purity  and  perfection,  it  is  considered  the  best  melon  of 
its  kind. 

The  seed  of  the  Cantaloupe  are  usually  planted  about 
thefirstof  May,  when  the  spring  frosts  are  no  longer  to  be 
apprehended,  in  hills  or  beds,  about  six  feet  apart  each 
way.  In  preparing  the  hills,  the  most  approved  way 
is  to  dig  out  the  earth  about  a  foot  deep  and  two  wide, 
and  fill  up  the  holes  thus  made  with  a  compost  consist- 
ing of  a  mixture,  in  equal  parts,  of  old  well-rotted  ma- 
nure, sand,  and  good  garden  soil  and  street  dirt,  where 


232  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

this -can  be  had.  The  hills  maybe  heaped  up  about 
six  inches  above  the  common  level  of  the  ground.  Eight 
or  ten  seeds  may  be  put  into  the  middle  of  each  hill,  a 
few  inches  apart,  and  covered  with  about  half  an  inch 
of  loose  earth. 

When  the  growth  of  the  plants  has  sufficiently  ad- 
vanced, thin  out  so  as  to  leave  but  three  or  four  in  each 
hill.  The  beds  are  to  be  kept  well  hoed  and  cleared  of 
weeds.  For  the  purpose  of  strengthening  the  vines, 
gardeners  recommend  what  they  call  "  topping,"  which 
consists  of  pinching  off  the  end  of  each  plant  when  it 
has  made  four  or.  five  rough  leaves.  This  makes  them 
branch  out  and  bring  their  fruit  earlier.  After  the 
runners  are  spread  out,  no  farther,  culture  should  be 
given.  Particular  care  ^should  be  observed  to  keep 
these  melons  separated  from  cucumbers,  gourds,  and 
plants  of  a  similar  family,  as  otherwise  great  deteriora- 
tion will  result. 

Pumpkin  [Cucurhita  Pepo). — Many  varieties  of 
these  are  cultivated  in  America,  such  as  the  Mammoth, 
or  Spanish,  Connecticut  Field,  White  Bell,  &c.  The 
larger  sorts,  some  of  which  have  been  found  to  weigh 
two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  are  only  fit  to  feed  pigs 
and  cattle.  Pumpkin  seed  are  generally  planted  in 
May  and  June,  in  the.carn-fields,  the  hills  being  raised 
between  the  corn-rows,  and  made  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
apart.  The  culture  resembles  that  of  the  Cantaloupe, 
and  they  are  not  by  any  means  so  particular  in  their 
choice  of  soils  as  melons.  The  Cashaw  Pumpkin  is  a 
variety  resembling  the  Winter  Squash,  and  is  the  best 
variety  for  table  use  and  making  into  pies  and  pud- 
dings. 


SQUASH- — VEGETABLE  MARROW.  238 

Squash  {Cucurlita  Melopepo). — In  the  United  States 
this  vegetable  is  of  universal  use,  and  generally  ready 
for  the  table  in  June,  continuing  to  be  eaten  through 
July  and  August.  There  are  two  varieties  most  com- 
monly cultivated.  The  Patty  Pan,  or  Ea7'Ii/  Bush,  is 
preferred  for  early  crops.  It  is  of  a  yellowish-white 
color,  flattened  shape,  and,  though  dwarfish  in  growth, 
is  very  productive.  The  Large  Green,  or  G-reen- Striped 
Squash,  has  a  long  crooked  neck,  with  a  few  whitish 
stripes.  It  does  not  come  so  early,  but,  on  good  ground, 
is  very  luxuriant  and  productive. 

The  seed  are  usually  planted  so  as  to  produce  a  suc- 
cession of  crops  in  May,  June,  and  July.  They  are 
deposited  in  hills  about  four  feet  apart,  and,  made  like 
those  for  cucumbers  and  cantaloupes,  the  management 
being  very  similar.  They  are  fit  for  use  when  not 
larger  than  the  fist,  and  cease  to  be  eaten  when  the  skin 
becomes  too  hard  to  be  penetrated  by  the  finger-nail. 

The  Winter  Squash,  Valparaiso  Squash,  with  some 
other  varieties  of  a  similar  kind,  differ  very  materially 
from  ihe^Simimer  Squash,  and  bear  more  resemblance 
to  the  pumpkin  family  in  size,  shape,  color  of  the  meat, 
and  flavor. 

Vegetable  Marrow  {Cucurhita  Ovifera). — This  is  a 
species  of  the  gourd  family,  and  bears  a  resemblance 
to  both  the  pumpkin  and  squash.  The  fruit  is  oval, 
and  the  inside  very  fleshy  and  of  a  rich  yellow  color. 
When  cooked,  it  is  agreeable  and  nutritious.  The  cul- 
ture is  conducted  similar  to  that  of  the  pumpkin  and 
squash.  It  should  not  be  confounded  with  another 
member  of  the  gourd  tribe,  sometimes  called  by  the 


234  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

same  name,  and   which  grows  several  feet  in.  length, 
being  slender  and  curved. 

Cucumber  {Ciieumis  Satinus). — The  cultivation  of 
this  vegetable  in  the  United  States  is  conducted  so 
nearly  like  that  of  the  cantaloupe,  that  we  only  refer  to 
what  we  have  just  said  in  relation  to  the  best  mode  of 
raising  those  melons  as  almost  equally  applicable  to 
that  of  the  cucumber.  But  the  cucumber  will  thrive 
and  prove  highly  productive  almost  everywhere,  whilst 
the  cantaloupe  often  fails  in  places  in  which  it  does  not 
find  the  proper  kind  of  light  and  sandy  soil  conjoined 
with  sufficient  heat.  In  the  Middle  States,  the  seed 
may  be  planted  any  time  in  May.  Immediately  after 
coming  up,  the  plants  of  both  the  cucumber  and  can- 
taloupe are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  a  very  little  black 
bug.  The  ravages  of  this  have  sometim^es  been  checked 
by  sprinkling  or  sifting  over  the  plants  some  ashes  or 
soot,  either  alone  or  mixed  together.  This  should  be 
done  in  the  morning  whilst  the  leaves  are  still  moist 
with  dew.  When  three  rough  leaves  have  been  made, 
the  ends  of  the  shoots  should  be  pinched  off,  so  as  to 
make  them  branch  out  and  fruit  sooner.  For  the  va- 
rieties of  the  cucumber  best  known  in  England,  we  refer 
to  the  part  of  this  treatise  which  treats  of  the  operations 
of  the  forcing  garden. 

Egg  Plant  [Solanum  3felongena). — There  are  two 
varieties  of  this  plant  commonly  cultivated  in  the  United 
States,  one  of  which  is  a  large,  oval-shaped,  purple-co- 
lored fruit,  often  weighing  many  pounds,  and  used  for 
cooking;  the  other  variety,  being  white  and  much 
smaller,  though  good   when  eaten,  is  generally  raised 


OKRA.  235 

for  ornament.  In  the  Middle  and  Northern  States,  the 
seeds  of  this  plant  are  sown  about  the  first  of  March  in 
hotbeds,  the  sashes  of  which  should  be  kept  down  close 
until  the  plants  come  up,  when  they  may  be  slightly 
raised,  so  as  to  admit  a  little  air,  in  the  middle  of  the 
day.  The  seeds  require  considerable  warmth  to  make 
them  vegetate,  which  warmth  must  be  kept  up  to  bring 
the  plants  forward.  They  will  not  bear  the  least  cold  when 
very  young,  and  ought,  therefore,  to  have  a  division  to 
themselves,  free  from  association  with  cabbage-plants 
and  other  vegetables  which  are  generally  benefited  by 
more  or  less  exposure  to  the  atmosphere  during  a  por- 
tion of  the  day. 

The  young  plants  may  be  taken  from  their  beds  about 
the  middle  of  May,  if  the  weather  be  warm  and  settled, 
and  set  out  in  hills  from  two  feet  to  two  and  a  half  feet 
apart,  in  a  rich,  warm  soil,  kept  clean,  and  when  about 
a  foot  high,  sKghtly  hilled  by  drawing  some  earth  around 
them.  The  plants  of  the  white  variety  are  generally 
transplanted  into  pots. 

Okra  {Hibiscus  Esculentis). — This  West  India  plant 
is  much  cultivated  in  the  Southern  and  some  of  the 
Middle  States,  chiefly  as  an  addition  to  soup.  Its  long 
and  green  pods,  full  of  seed  and  abounding  in  mucus, 
form  the  chief  ingredient  in  the  famous  gumbo-soup  of 
the  South,  and  hence  the  plant  is  often  called  Gumbo. 
The  beauty  of  its  flowers,  which  much  resemble  those  of 
the  cotton-plant,  to  which  family  it  belongs,  makes  it 
an  ornament  to  the  parterre. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  about  two  feet  apart, 
and  lightly  covered,  as  soon  as  there  is  no  danger  from 
spring  frosts ;  namely,  in:  the  Middle  States,  about  the 


236  KITCITEN  GARDEN. 

first  of  May.  The  plants  are  to  be  thinned  out  so  as 
to  be  about  three  inches  apart,  and  hoed  frequently,  a 
little  earth  being  occasionally  drawn  to  the  stems. 
On  dry,  warm,  and  good  soil  the  plaats  will  attain  the 
height  of  four  or  five  feet.  The  pods  are  only  used 
when  in  a  green  state  and  filled  with  mucilage. 

Tomato  {Solarium  Ly coper sioum). — The  tomato,  or 
love-apple,  has  become  an  article  of  immense  consump- 
tion in  the  Southern  and  Middle  States,  and  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Philadelphia  is  an  object  of  extensive 
field  culture.  Two  species  are  in  common  cultivation, 
the  Red-fruited  and  the  Yellow-fruited.  Each  of  these 
kinds  is  divided  into  several  varieties.  The  reds,  which 
are  regarded  as  the  best,  are  distinguished  into — 1.  The 
Common  Large ;  2.  Small;  3.  Pear-shaped;  4.  Cherry- 
shaped.  Of  the  yellow  there  are  the  Large  Yellow,  and 
the  Small  or  the  Cherry-yellow.  The  cherry  kinds  of 
both  colors  are  generally  used  for  pickling,  whilst  the 
larger  sorts  are  eaten  in  various  ways,  or  added  to 
soups. 

A  rich,  light  mould  is  best  adapted  to  the  culture  of 
the  tomato.  Those  intended  for  early  use  must  be 
started  in  hotbeds  in  the  month  of  March.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  thinly  and  covered  lightly.  They  come 
up  quickly  and  grow  rapidly,  and  require  airing  when 
the  weather  is  mild.  When  crowded  in  the  first  bed, 
many  of  the  plants  may  be  transplanted  into  other  beds 
under  glass,  and  placed  three  or  four  inches  apart. 
The  planting  out  in  the  open  air  may  take  place  about 
the  first  of  May,  when  the  young  plants  may  be  put 
about  three  feet  apart  in  the  most  sheltered  spots, 
where  they  will  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun.     As 


MOREL.  237 

they  grow  up  they  must  have  the  earth  drawn  about 
their  stems,  and  when  a  foot  high,  branches  or  other 
means  of  support  must  be  provided  for  the  vines  to  run 
or  hang  upon.  As  soon  as  they  have  set  their  fruit,  the 
earliest  plants  should  have  a  few  inches  of  their  tops 
pinched  off,  which  will  make  them  ripen  their  fruit 
sooner. 

Morel  {Phallus  Esculentis). — This  is  a  species  of 
mushroom  much  esteemed  by  the  French.  It  is  distin- 
guished from  others  of  the  tribe  by  its  cap  being  hollow 
within,  adhering  to  the  stem  by  its  base,  and  covered 
on  the  surface  with  a  kind  of  irregular  lattice-work.  It 
grows  about  three  or  four  inches  high  in  shady  places 
where  the  soil  is  moist,  and  should  not  be  gathered 
whilst  wet  with  dew  or  rain.  When  dry,  they  may  be 
preserved  for  several  months.  It  may  be  cultivated 
after  the  manner  pursued  to  obtain  the  ordinary  mush- 
room, a  description  of  which  may  be  found  under  the 
head  of  the  Forcing  Garden. 

Jn  England,  the  following  annual  plants  are  occa- 
sionally used  in  cookery,  or  as  salads  :  Qhervil,  Chse- 
rophyllum  sativum;  Purslane^  Portulaca  oleracea ; 
Larnhh  Lettuce,  Fedia  olitoria ;  Indian  Cress,  Tropseo- 
lum  majus ;  Marigold,  Calendula  officinalis ;  Borage, 
Borago  officinalis.  These  may  be  sown  in  spring,  or  in 
the  beginning  of  summer,  in  any  fresh  light  soils.  In 
general,  a  small  quantity  will  suffice. 

The,  (7(3mmo?i  Sorrel,  Rumex  acetosa ;  the  French 
Sorrel,  Rumex  scutatus ;  and  the  Horse-radish,  Ar- 
moracia  rusticana,  are  perennials,  and  are  increased 
21 


238  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

by  parting  their  roots.     They  thrive  in  any  cool,  shady 
situation. 

^OHKEL  (Rumex  acefosa). — This  is  the  common  sorrel 
indigenous  in  England,  growing  everywhere,  like  its 
close  kindred  sheep  sorrel  [Rumex  acetocella),  in  the 
United  States.  The  garden  or  cultivated  sorrel  is 
much  used  by  the  French,  both  in  soups  and  boiled,  and 
eaten  like  spinach.  They  regard  it  as  possessed  of  healthy 
properties,  adapted  to  some  constitutions  and  ailments. 

The  Capsicum  Or"  Chilli/,  Capsicum  annuum,  and  the 
Love-Apple,  Solanum  Lycopersicum,  are  tender  an- 
nuals from  tropical  climates.  Both,  in  England,  are 
sown  in  hotbeds  in  spring,  and  after  being  transplanted 
and  nursed  in  separate  pots,  are  planted  out,  the  for- 
mer in  a  w^arm  border,  and  the  latter  against  a  wall. 
In  Scotland,  the  Capsicum  will  scarcely  mature  its  fruit 
without  the  aid  of  glass. 

Dill,  Anethum  graveolens  and  Angelica,  Angelica 
archangelica,  are  umbelliferous  biennials,  which  have 
been  for  a  long  period,  though  not  extensively,  culti- 
vated in  English  gardens.  They  are  easily  raised  from 
seed.  With  these  may  be  associated  the  beautiful  na- 
tive perennial.  Fennel  (Foeniculum  vulgare),  the  buds 
and  leaves  of  which  are  used  in  salads  and  sauces.  It 
may  be  propagated  either  by  parting  the  roots,  or  by 
seeds,  which  shoul-d  be  sown  in  autumn,  soon' after  they 
are  ripe.  Finochio,  or  Florence  Fennel,  is  an  improved 
variety,  with  more  succulent  stems ;  but  its  cultivation 
seems  rather  neglected- in.  England.  The  seed  of  Fi- 
nochio may  be  sown  in  the  end  of  Mai'ch,  on  a  warm 
border,  or  better,  perhaps,  in  a  frame,  in^  the  manner 
of  celery.     The  young  plants  may  be  pricked  out  into 


MEDICINAL  PLANTS.  239 

a  sheltered  quarter,  at  six  inches  apart  in  every  direc- 
tion. When  the  outer  leaves  covering  the  stems  are 
pulled  off,  the  stems  have  a  whitish  appearance,  giving 
the  aspect  of  blanching.  If  the  weather  prove  dry, 
watering  is  useful,  the  object  being  to  render  the  stems 
as  thick  and  succulent  as  possible  In  Lombardy,  these 
stems  are  much  used.  Cut  into  thin  slices,  they  form  a 
favorite  garnish  for  ragouts  of  fowl  or  veal ;  slightly 
boiled  or  stewed,  and  cut  small,  a  desirable  ingredient 
for  giving  flavor  to  gravy  soups  ;  and,  along  with  grated 
parmesan,  an  excellent  macaroni. 

Burnet  or  Pimpernell  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant, 
the  young-  leaves  of  which  are  used  in  salads,  and  by  the 
French  added  to  soups,  to  which  it  communicates  a 
warm  and  grateful  taste.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in 
early  spring,,  and  a  few  plants  will  sufiice  for  a  family. 
Plants  may  be  multiplied  by  parting  the  roots. 

In  every  garden,  there  is  a  small  department  set 
apart  for  the  culture  of  Sweet  Herbs  and  Medicinal 
Plants.  We  need  not  here  enter  into  details  respecting 
their  uses  or  culture,  but  shall  merely  give  classified 
lists. 

Shruhhy  Plants  increased  by  parting  the  roots,  or 
by  cuttings  :  Thyme,  Thymus  vulgaris ;  Sage,  Salvia 
officinalis;  Winter  Savory,  Satureja  montana  ;  Rose- 
mary, Rosmarinus  officinalis ;  Lavender,  Lavandula 
Spica ;  Hyssop,  Hyssopus  officinalis ;  and  Hue,  Ruta 
graveolens. 

Perennial  Herbaceous  Plants,  increased  by  parting 
the  roots:  Spearmint,  Mentha  viridis;  Peppermint 
M.  piperita ;  Pennyroyal,  M.  pulegium ;  Balm,  Me- 
lissa officinalis;  Tarragon,  Artemisia  Dracunculus ; 
Tansy,  Tanacetum  vulgare;  Burnet,  Poterium  Sanguis- 


240  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

orba ;  Qostmary,  Balsamita  vulgaris ;  QhamomileyKnth^- 
mis  nobilis. 

Biennial  or  Annual  Plants,  increased  by  sowing  the 
seeds:  (7Zar?/,  Salvia  Sclarea;  Coriander,  Coriandrum 
sativum  ;  Caraivay,  Carum  Carui ;  Sweet  Marjoram, 
Origanum  majorana ;  Summer  Savory,  Satureja  hor- 
tensis ;  Sweet  Basil,  Ocimum  basilicum ;  and  Bush 
Basil,  0.  minimum.  These  last,  the  basils,  which  are 
natives  of  the  East,  and  in  much  request  for  their 
delicate  flavor,  are  raised  on  hotbeds  in  spring,  and 
transplanted  with  balls  into  some  warm  situation.  In 
Scotland,  they  are  mostly  treated  as  tender  annuals, 
and  are  grown  under  glazed  frames,  in  flower-pots. 

It  may  here  be  noticed  that  the  young  green  leaves 
of  Prunus  Laurocerasus  (under  the  name  of  laurel)  may 
properly  enough  be  employed  in  garnishing ;  but  they 
ought  never  to  be  used,  as  they  too  often  are,  for  giv- 
ing a  nutty  flavor,  or  for  greening  other  articles ;  the 
hydrocyanic  or  prussic  acid  given  out  being  very  apt  to 
prove  injurious,  even  in  small  quantities. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

The  cultivation  of  flowers,  if  not  the  most  useful,  is  at 
least  one  of  the  most  pleasing,  occupations  of  the  hor- 
ticulturist, and  has  generally  shared  largely  in  his  at- 
tention. It  is  probable  that,  at  first,  flowers,  as  objects 
of  curiosity,  were  confined  to  a  few  beds  or  borders  in 
the  garden,  as  is  still  the  case  in  many  old  places ;  but 
in  the  progress  of  the  art,  and  the  difi'usion  of  taste, 
separate  departments  were  allotted  to  them,  under  the 
name  of  Flower  Gardens.     After  some  general  remarks 


FLOWER  GARDEN.  241 

on  the  style  and  situation,  we  shall  treat  of  the  compo- 
nent parts  of  flower  gardens,  their  various  decorations, 
and  of  floriculture. 

The  designing  of  flower  gardens  unquestionably  be- 
longs to  the  fine  arts,  involving  in  it  the  exercise  of  in- 
vention, taste,  and  foresight.  Its  principles  are  more 
vague  and  evanescent  than  those  of  any  of  the  sister 
arts.  The  hand  of  the  designer  is  not  here  guided  by 
the  imitation  of  Nature,  for  his  work  is  wholly  artificial 
in  its  arrangements  and  appliances  ;  neither  does  utility 
come  in,  as  in  architecture,  to  supply  a  form  and  frame- 
work, which  it  is  the  artist's  part  to  adorn.  "As  flower- 
gardens,"  says  Mr  Loudon,  the  best  authority  on  this 
topic,  "are  objects  of  pleasure,  the  principle  which  must 
serve  as  a  guide  in  laying  them  out  must  be  taste. 
Now,  in  flower  gardens,  as  in  other  objects,  there  ar^ 
difl'erent  kinds  of  tastes ;  these  embodied  are  called 
styles  or  characters;  and  the  great  art  of  the  designer 
is,  having  fixed  on  a  style,  to  follow  it  out  unmixed  with 
other  styles,  or  with  any  deviation  which  would  inter- 
fere with  the. kind  of  taste  or  impression  which  that 
style  is  calculated  to  produce.  Style,  therefore,  is  the 
leading  principle  in  laying  out  flower  gardens,  as  util- 
ity is  in  laying  out  the  culinary  garden.  As  objects  of 
fancy  and  taste,  the  styles  of  flower  gardens  are  vari- 
ous. The  modern  style  is  a  collection  of  irregular 
groups  and  masses,  placed  about  the  house  as  a  medium, 
uniting  it  with  the  open  lawn.  The  ancient  geomatric 
style,  in  place  of  irregular  groups,  employed  synrmetri- 
cal  forms;  in  France,  adding  statues  and  fountains;  in 
Holland,  cut  trees  and  grassy  slopes;  and  in  Italy, 
stone  walls,  walled-  terraces,  and  flights  of  steps.  In 
some  situations,  these-  characteristics  of  parterres  may 

21'^ 


242  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

with  propriety  be  added  to  or  used  instead  of  the 
modern  sort,  especially  in  flat  situations,  such  as  are 
enclosed  by  high  walls,  in  towns,  or  where  the  prin- 
cipal building  or  object  is  in  a  style  of  architecture 
which  will  not  render  these  appendages  incongruous. 
There  are  other  characters  of  gardens,  such  as  the  Chi- 
nese, which  are  not  widely  different  from  the  modern ; 
the  Indian,  which  consists  chiefly  of  walks  under  shade, 
in  squares  of  grass ;  the  Turkish,  which  abounds  in 
shady  retreats,  boudoirs  of  roses  and  aromatic  herbs; 
and  the  Spanish,  which  is  distinguished  by  trellis-work 
and  fountains;  but  these  gardens  are  not  generally 
adapted  to  this  climate,  though,  from  contemplating 
and  selecting  what  is  beautiful  or  suitable  in  each,  a 
style  of  decoration  for  the  immediate  vicinity  of  man- 
sions might  be  composed  preferable  to  anything  now  in 
use."  It  may,  however,  be  remarked,  that  the  flower 
garden,  properly  so  called,  has  generally  been  too  much 
governed  by  the  laws  of  landscape-gardening,  and  these 
often  ill  understood  and  misapplied.  In  the  days  of 
"  clipped  hedges  and  pleached  alleys,''  the  parterres  and 
flower-beds  were  of  a  description  the  most  grotesque 
and  intricate  imaginable.  At  a  subsequent  period, 
when  the  natural  and  the  picturesque  became  the  ob- 
jects of  imitation  in  the  park,  there  appeared  the  most 
extravagant  attempts  at  wildness  in  the  garden.  The 
result  has  been  equally  unfortunate.  It  is  not  meant 
that  where  there  are  merely  a  few  patches  of  flowers, 
by  way  of  foreground  to  the  lawn,  they  should  not  be 
subordinated  to  the  principles  which  regulate  the  more 
distant  and  bolder  scenery;  but  wherever  there  is  a 
flower  garden  of  considerable  magnitude,  and  in  a  sepa- 
rate  situation,  we   think   it   should   be   constructed  on 


FLOWER  GAKDEN.  243 

principles  of  its  own.  In  such  a  spot,  the  great  object 
must  be  to  exhibit  to  advantage  the  graceful  forms  and 
glorious  hues  of  flowering  plants  and  shrubs;  and  it  is 
but  seldom  that  mere  elegancies  in  the  forms  of  com- 
partments, and  other  trickeries  of  human  invention, 
can  bear  any  comparison  with  these  natural  beauties. 
To  express  the  peculiar  nature  of  garden  scenery,  as 
distinct  from  the  picturesque  in  landscape,  Mr.  Loudon 
invented  the  term  gardenesque;  and,  whatever  may 
be  thought  of  the  term  itself,  it  is  very  desirable  that 
the  distinction  should  be  preserved. 

Two  varieties  of  flower  gardens  have  chifefly  prevailed 
in  Britain;  one,  in  which  the  ground  is  turf,  and  the 
pattern,  so  to  speak,  is  composed  of  a  variety  of  figures 
cut  out  of  the  turf,  and  planted  with  flowers  and  shrubs; 
and  another,  where  the  flower-beds  are  separated  by 
gravel  walks,  without  being  interspersed  with  grass  at 
all.  The  choice  of  one  or  other  of  these  varieties  ought 
greatly  to  depend  upon  the  situation.  When  the  flower 
garden  is  to  be  seen  from  the  windows,  or  any  other 
elevated  point  of  view,  from  which  the  whole  or  the 
greater  part  of  the  design  may  be  perceived-  at  once, 
perhaps  the  former  should  be  preferred.  Where  the 
surface  is  irregular,  and  the  situation  more  remote, 
and  especially  where  the  beauty  of  flowers  is  the  chief 
object  of  contemplation,  the  choice  should  probably 
fall  on  the  latter.  This  variety,  too,  seems  preferable, 
on  the  principle  of  contrast,  where  there  are  large  lawns 
in  the  outer  grounds,  in  order  that  kept  (or  smoothly- 
mown)  grass  may  not  be  found  everywhere. 

Respecting  the  situation  of  the  flower  garden,  no  very 
precise  directions  can  be  given,  as  it  must  be  influenced 
by  the  size  of  the  domain,  the  nature  of  tlie  lawns,  and 


244  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

the  site  of  the  mansion  to  which  it  is  attached.  Gene- 
rally speaking,  it  should  .not  be  at  any  great  distance 
from  the  house ;  and  in  places  where  there  is  no  dis- 
tant view  of  importance,  it  may  be  constructed  under 
the  windows.  In  retired  scenes,  it  is  delightful  to  step' 
out  of  the  drawing-room  into  compartments  of  flowers, 
in  the  vicinity  of  a  green-house  or  conservatory.  On 
the  other  hand,  when  the  park  is  spacious,  and  the 
prospects  extensive  and  picturesque,  it  is  perhaps  better 
that  the  flower  garden  should  be  at  some  distance,  but 
not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  out  of  sight  of  the 
house,  and  with  an  easy  access  in  any  sort  of  weather — 
an  arrangement  which  would  give  an  agreeable  termina- 
tion to  a  short  walk,  a  desirable  matter  in  most  cases; 
for  it  has  often  been  remarked  that  many  parts  of  ex- 
tensive grounds,  remain  unvisited  because,  they  afi'ord 
no  remarkable  object  to  attract  attention. 

The  particular  form  of  a  flower  garden  is  equally 
beyond  the  inculcation  of  specific  rules.  Indeed,  it  may 
be  of  any  shape,  and,  except  where  the  dimensions  are 
extremely  limited,  the  boundarries  should  not  be  con- 
tinuously visible.  The  taste  of  the  proprietor  .9r  de- 
signer, and  the  capabilities  of  the  situation,  must  deter- 
mine not  only  the  external  configuration  but  also  the 
arrangement  of  the  interior  parts.  By  judicious  ma- 
nagement, it  may , be  made  to  pass  through  shrubbery, 
gradually  assuming  a  more  woodland  character,  and 
groups  of  trees,  into  the  park  on  the  one  hand,  and  into 
the  kitchen  garden  or  orchard  on  the  other.  In  most 
cases,  even  where  it  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mansion 
house,  the  flower  garden  should  be  encircled  with  some 
sort  of  fence,  in  order  to  convey  the  idea  of  protection, 
as  well  as  to  furnish  security  to  the  vegetable  inmates 


FLOWER  GARDEN.  245 

of  the  parterres,  it  -being  impossible  to  carry  on  flori- 
culture to  any  great  extent  in  open  places  which  are 
accessible  to  hares  and  rabbits,  or  any  other  kind  of  in- 
truders. In  detached  localities,  the  fences  may  be  made 
sufficiently  strong  to  preclude  the  intrusion  of  every 
species  of  vagrant;  and  these  fences  it  is  not  difficult 
to  mask  with  shrubs  and  trees.  A  north  wall  of  mo- 
derate extent  and  moderate  elevation  is  often  desirable, 
as  affording  space  for  ornamental  climbers  and  half- 
acclimatized  exotics,  and  as  forming  a  point  d'appui  for 
the  conservatory  and  other  botanical  structures.  Such 
a  wall  may  be  surmounted  with  urns  and  other  archi- 
tectural ornaments,  and  screened  at  some  little  distance 
behind  by  trees.  The  other  fences  may  be  of  wire- 
work,  generally  called  invisible,  or  of  wooden  rails,  or 
of  holly  hedges  with  rails. 

Formerly  the  flower-beds  were  made  either  circular, 
straight,  or  in  curves,  and  were  turned  into  knots, 
scrolls,  volutes,  and  other  compartments;  and  this  taste 
prevailed,  perhaps,  in  some  measure  from  a  desire  on 
the  part  of  the  contrivers,  to  compensate  by  their  inge- 
nuity for  the  paucity  of  the  ornamental  plants  which 
were  then  cultivated.  Now  that  the  riches  of  Flora 
have  poured  into  our  gardens,  a  simpler  taste  has  ob- 
tained. Of  the  figures  in  fashion  at  present  in  the  lawn 
flower  garden,  perhaps  the  kidney-shape  and  its  varie- 
ties occur  too  frequently.  It  is  needless,  as  well  as 
impossible,  to  specify  the  numerous  configurations  of 
flower-pots,  for  they  abound  in  kaleidoscopical  variety. 
Good  taste  will  suggest  that  those  only  should  be  as- 
sociated which  harmonize  well  together;  and  it  is  better 
to  incur  the  hazard  of  an  apparent  monotony  than  to 
excite   wonder   by  incongruous   coiiibinations.     When 


246  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

the  figures  are  separated  by  turf,  it  is  proper  that  the 
little  lawns  or  glades  shoukl  have  a  considerable  de- 
gree of  breadth,  for  nothing  has  a  worse  effect  than 
overcrowding.  A  multitude  of  little  figures  should 
also  be  avoided  ;  for  they  produce  what  Mr.  Gilpin  calls 
spottiness,  which,  as  he  has  correctly  pointed  out,  is  a 
grievous  deformity.  In  this  sort  of  flower  garden  it  is 
desirable  that  a  gravel-walk  should  skirt  along  at  least 
one  side  of  the  principal  figures ;  in  our  humid  climate 
the  grass  would  otherwise  render  them  inaccessible  with 
comfort  during  a  great  part  of  the  year.  In  those 
gardens  from  which  turf  is  excluded,  the  compartments 
should  be  of  a  larger  and  more  massive  character. 

Narrow  borders,  bounded  by  parallel  straight  lines 
and  concentric  curves,  should  be  avoided.  The  centres 
of  the  figures  should  be  occupied  with  tall-growing 
shrubs,  and  even  with  an  occasional  low  evergreen  tree, 
such  as  a  yew  or  a  holly.  The  walks,  arranged  in  long 
concave  curves,  may  communicate  here  and  there  with 
one  another.  A  dial,  a  few  seats  and  arbors,  with  an 
urn  or  two,  or  a  vase,  may  be  introduced  with  good 
effect.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  so  few  good  specimens 
of  this  species  of  flower  garden  have  hitherto  been"  exe- 
cuted in  Britain. 

Amongst  the  accompaniments  of  the  flower  garden 
may  be  mentioned  the  Rock-work.  This  consists  of 
variou^sly  grouped  masses  of  large  stones,  generally  such 
as  are  remarkable  for  being  figured  by  water-wearing, 
or  for  containing  petrifactions  or  impressions;  and  into 
the  cavities  between  the  stones,  filled  with  earth,  alpine 
or  trailing  plants  are  inserted.  These  are  numerous, 
and  may  be  endlessly  diversified.  Several  species  of 
Helianthemum,    Gentiana,   Pentstemon,  and  Primula; 


ROCK-WORK.  247 

Campanula  piimila,  blue  and  white  varieties,  carpatica, 
and  nitida;  Saponaria  ocymoides,  and  Adonis  vernalis 
may  be  recommended. 

Alpine  or  Rock  Plants. — Soldanella  alpina,  Clusii, 
and  minima.  Silene  acaulis,  maritima  plena.  -  Semper- 
vivum  araclinoideum,  grandiflorum,  and  even  the  com- 
mon house-leek  or  fouet  of  Scotland,  S.  tectorum. 
Dwarf  crimson-flowered  Raspberry,  Rubus  arcticus. 
Dracocephalum  grandiflorum.  Potentilla  tritentata. 
Phlox  subulata,  setacea,  virginiisa,  and  stolonifera* 
Oxytropis  uralensis.  Lychnis  alpina.  Linaria  alpina. 
Liatris  pilosa  and  spicata.  Ilippocrepis  comosa.  Epi- 
medium  alpinum.  Aubrietia  deltoidea'.  Bryas  octo- 
petala  and  Drummondii.  Cardamine  bellidifolia.  Aster 
alpinus.  Anemone  palmata,  and  Pulsatilla  or  pasque- 
flower. No  plants  -produce  a  finer  effect  than  the  dif- 
ferent varieties  of  the  common  rock-rose,  Helianthemum 
vulgare,  double-flowered,  pale,  yellow,  and  dark  orange- 
colored,  ^thionema  membranaceum.  Aletris  fari- 
nosa.  Iris  tenax.  Geranium  Wallichianum.  Gentiana 
septemfida.  Siversia  triflora.  Astragalus  alpinus." 
Erinus  alpinus  and  hispanicus.  Ramonda  pyrenaica. 
Sedum  ternatum.  Alyssum  olympicum.  Antenaria 
dioica  and  alpina.     Dianthus  alpinus  and  nitidus. 

In  appropriate  situations,  a  small  piece  of  water  may 
be  introduced  for  the  culture  of  aquatic  plants.* 
One  of  the  walks  is  sometimes   arched  over  with  wire- 

*  For  such  a  pond,  it  is  sometime-s  found  difdcult  to  form  a 
thoroughly  retentive  bottom  with  clay,  however  well  puddled. 
In  places  near  the  sea,  an  efifective  puddle  may  be  obtained  by 
mixirig  two  parts  of  shore  sand  with  one  part  of  quicklime, 
and  forming  a  mortar  of  l^liem  with  sea-water,  to  be  spread  over 
the  bottom  of  the  pond.  This  mode  of  pdddling  was  devised  by 
Mr.  Robert  Millie,  and  adopted  with  perfect  success  for  a  pond 
at  his  curious  littlo  rock-work  garden  at  Pathhead,  in  Fife. 


248  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

work,  and  covered  with  ornamental  climbing  shrubs, 
affording  a  delightful  promenade  in  the  glowing  days 
of  summer.  A  separate  compartment,  generally  of 
some  regular  figure,  is  set  apart  for  roses.  A  moist 
or  rather  a  shady  border,  with  bog  earth,  is  devoted 
to  that  class  of  shrubs,  commonly,  but  not  very  accu- 
rately, designated  "American  plants."  In  extensive 
places,  a  separate  "American  Garden"  is  often  formed 
in  a  locality  which,  if  not  damp,  has  at  least  the  com- 
mand of  water,  occupying  generally  some  warm  corner 

of  the  park. 

Some  writers  have  advocated  the  formation  of  Winter 
and  Spring  Gardens  in  separate  localities ;  but  we  are 
not  aware  that  their  ideas  have  ever  been  embodied  to 
any  great  extent.  It  is  proposed  that  in  the  winter 
garden  should  be  assembled  all  the  hardy  evergreen 
shrubs  and  plants,  together  with  the  few  flowers  that 
bloom  during  the  brumal  months.  The  situation,  it  is 
recommended,  should  be  well  sheltered,  and  open  only 
to  the  warm  rays  of  the  sun,  which  are  peculiarly  grate- 
ful in  our  cold  season.  However  attractive  this  scheme 
may  be  in  theory,  it  seems  doubtful  whether  it  would 
be  very  successful  in  execution.  Mass.es  of  evergreens 
have  a  sombre  and  monotonous  effect,  even  in  winter, 
unless  occasionally  broken  and  varied  by  deciduous 
trees.  The  contrast  of  their  leafless  neighbors  relieves 
the  intenseness  of  their  gloom,  and  sets  off  their  bril- 
liancy. Though  a  winter  garden  (the  very  naro.e  of 
which  is  chilling)  is  perhaps  not  very  desirable  by  it- 
self, the  object  sought  to  be  attained  should  not  be  lost 
sight  of  in  the  formation  of  the  park  and  the  flower 
garden.  We  can  easily  suppose  a  particular  section  of 
the  latter  to  contain  a  predominance  of  evergreens,  and 


SOIL.  249 

to  possess  the  principal  characters  of  a  Winter  Garden, 
without  the  formality  of  its  name  and  purpose.  In  the 
endless  variety  of  situations,  it  is  not  difficult  to  ima- 
gine a  sloping  bank,  for  instance,  facing  the  sun,  with 
a  long  walk  skirting  its  base,  the  lower  side  of  which 
might  be  adorned  with  a  border  or  narrow  parterre 
planted  with  arbutus  and  periwinkle,  whilst  the  slope 
is  covered  with  the  higher  evergreens,  and  the  summit 
of -the  acclivity  is  crowned  with  groups  of  deciduous 
trees,  interrupted  by  a  few  straggling  firs,  through  which 
the  wind,  unfelt  below,  might  sigh  its  melancholy  music. 
Again,  a  site  for  the  Spring  Garden,  which  need  not 
be  of  very  great  extent,  may  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  green-house  or  conservatory,  with  which  it  is  natu- 
rally allied. 

Soil. — A  variety  of  soils  is  required  in  the  flower 
garden,  to  -sjiit  the  very  different  kinds  of  plants  that 
fall  to  be  cultiva;ted.  To  florists'  flowers  particular 
compounds  are  assigned,  and  these  shall  be  mentioned 
when  treating  of  the  flowers  themselves.  American 
plants  require  a  peaty  earth,  varying  from  boggy  peat 
to  almost  pure  sand.  Alluvial  peat,  that  is,  boggy 
earth  which  has  been  washed  away  and  incorporated 
with  white  sand,  is  to  be  preferred :  peat,  cut  from  its 
natural  bed  and  only  partially  decomposed,  is  of  no 
value  at  all,  or  rather  is  positively  prejudicial  to  plants. 
In  collecting  soil  from  the  surface  of  a  muir,  it  is  proper 
to  take  no  more  than  the  upper  turf  or  sod,  with  the 
peat  adhering  to  it,  and  only  from  the  driest  parts  of 
the  muir,  where  particles  of  white  sand  abound,  and 
where,  besides  the  common  heath,  fescue-grasses  occur. 
Where  this  kind  of  muir-soil  cannot  be  procured,  a  good 
substitute  is  found  in  vegetable  mould,  that  is,  decayed 
99 


250  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

leaves  swept  from  lawns -or  woods,  and  allowed  to  lie  in 
heaps- for  a  few  years.  For  the  general  purpose  of  the 
flower  garden,  a  light  loamy  soil  is  advantageous ;  and, 
where  the  natural  covering  is  thin,  or  requires  making 
up,  recourse  should  be  had  to  the  surface-earth  of  old 
pastures,  which,  especially  when  incumbent  on  trap- 
rocks,  is  found  to  be  excellent.  It  is  expedient  to  have 
a  large  mass  of  this  material  always  in  the  compost  yard. 
The  turf  and  the  surface-soil  adhering  to  it  should  be 
laid  up  in  a  rough  state,  in  which  way  it  is  continually 
ameliorating,  by  the  decomposition  of  the  vegetable  mat- 
ters, and  the  action  of  the  air. 

Plants  requiring  a  Peaty  Soil. — Rhododendron  Cau- 
casicum,  ferrugineum,  chamsecistus,  Lapponicum,  hirsu- 
tum,  carapanulatura,  maximum,  dahuricum,  atrovirens, 
and  several  beautiful  hybrids,  such  as  the  alto-clerense 
and  Russellianum,  raised  at  Highclerc.  Kalmia  latifo- 
lia,  glauca,  angustifolia,  nitida.  Erica  australis,  arbo- 
rea,  medi-terranea,  ramulosa,  scoparia,  vagans,  ciliaris. 
Ledum  palustre  and  latifolium.  Vaceinium  myrtillus, 
the  bilberry,  and  V.  uliginosum,  the  blaeberry  of  this 
country,  and  several  North  American  species.  Menziesia 
coerulea,  Rhodora  canadensis  ;  also  numerous  Azaleas, 
particularly  the  Ghent  varieties. 

Garden  Walks. — During  the  prevalence  of  the  Dutch 
taste,  grass  walks  w^ere.  common,  in  our  gardens;  but, 
in  consequence  of  the  inconvenience  arising  from  their 
frequent  wetness  in  our  humid  climate,  they  have  in  a 
great  measure  been  discarded.  Their  disuse  is  perhaps 
to  be  regretted,  as  in  some  situations,  particularly  be- 
hind lengthened  screens  of  trees,  or   in  gardens   from 


GARI>t:N  WALKS.  251 

which  grass  has  be-en  in  a  great  measure  excluded,  they 
form  rather  an  agreeable  variety.  It  is  justly  observed 
by  Sir  William  Temple  that  "  two  things  peculiar  to 
us,  and  which  contribute  much  to  the  beauty  and  ele- 
gance of  our  gardens,  are  the  gravel  of  our  walks,  and 
the  fineness  and  almost  perpetual  greenness  of  our  turf;" 
and  therefore  no  trouble  should  be  spared  in  securing 
excellence  in  these  respects.  In  old  times,  grass  walks 
were  formed  with  much  care.  After  the  space  which 
they  were  to  ©ccupy  had  been  digged  and  leveled  that 
it  might  subside' equably,  a  thin  layer  of  sand  or  poor 
earth  was  laid  upon  the  surface,  and  over  this  a  similar 
layer  of  good  soil.  This  arrangement  was  to  prevent 
excessive  luxuriance  in  the  grass.  In  selecting  the  seed, 
all  annual,  wiry,  and  course  sorts  of  grass  should  be 
avoided.  Perhaps  a  mixture  of  Roughish  Meadow-grass 
(Poa  trivialis),  Sheep's'Fescue-grass  (Festuca  duriuscula 
and  Festuca  ovina),  and  Crested  Dogstail  grass  (Cyno- 
surus  cristatus),  is  about  the  best  that  could  be  selected. 
Poa  nemoralis  is  well  adapted  for  shaded  situations. 
The  seeds  of  these  species,  accurately  selected,  are  now 
sold  in  the  principal  seed-shops.  White  clover,  although 
ornamental,  should  scarcely  be  admitted,  as  it  tends  to 
keep  the  grass  in  a  damp  state. 

Gravel  walks,  in  this  department,  are  formed  pre- 
cisely in  the  same  manner  as  those  in  the  kitchen  gar- 
den. It  may,  however,  be  remarked,  that  numerous 
gravel  walks,  particularly  when  narrow,  have  a  puny 
effect.  All  the  principal  lines  should  be  broad  enough 
to  allow  at  least  three  persons  to  walk  abreast ;  the 
others  may  be  narrow.  Much  of  the  neatness  of  walks 
depends  upon  the  material  of  which  they  are  made. 
Gravel  from  an  inland  pit  is  to  be  preferred,   though 


252  FLOWER  GAPvDEN. 

occasienally  very  excellent  varieties  are  found  upon  the 
sea-sliore.  The  gravel  of  Kensington  and  Blackheath 
has  attained  considerable  celebrity  ;  and  is  frequently 
employed  in  remote  parts  of  the  kingdom,  the  expense 
being  lessened  by  its  being  conveyed  to  different  sea- 
ports as  ballast  of  ships.  In  summer,  a  gravel  walk 
requires  hoeing  and  raking  from  time  to  time,  to  clear 
it  from  weeds  and  tufts  of  grass.  After  this  operation, 
or  even  after  a  simple  sweeping,  it  is  rolled  down  with 
a  hand-roller ;  and  this  is  repeated  as  often  as  the  sur- 
face is  ruffled.  Nothing  contributes  more  to  the  ele- 
gance and  convenience  of  garden  walks  than  frequent 
rolling. 

Edgings. — Walks  are  generally  separated  from  the 
borders  and  parterres  by  some  kind  of  dense  bushy 
plant  planted  closely  in  line.  By  far  the  best  edging 
is  afforded  by  the'  Dwarf  Dutch  JBox  (Buxus  sempervi- 
rens  var.).  It  is  extremely  neat,  and,  when  annually 
clipped,  will  remain  in  good  order  for  many  years.  It 
may  be  planted  at  any  season,  except  when  in  full  growth 
or  in  midwinter.  Excellent  edgings  are  also  formed  by 
Sea  Pink  (Statice  armeria)  and  Double  Daisy  (Bellis 
perennis).  Dwarf  Gentian- (Gentiana  acaulis),  London 
Pride  (Saxifraga  umbrosa),  and  the  pretty  native  saxi- 
frage, S.  hypnoidcs,  are  likewise  used.  Indeed,  any 
low-growing  herbaceous  plant,  susceptible  of  minute 
division,  is  fitted  for  an  edging.  Among  the  great 
variety  occasionally  employ?  ed  for  this  purpose  may  be 
mentioned  the  Pansy  (Viola  tricolor),,  the  Dwarf  Bell- 
flower  (Campanula  pumila),  the  Cowslip,  Polyanthus, 
Auricula,  Ilepatica,  Veronica  fruticulosa,  Calluna  vul- 
garis fl.  pleno,  and  Erica  carnea.  Edgings  may  also 
be  formed  of  spars  of  wood,  narrow  pieces  of  sandstone 


SHRUBS.  253 

flag,  or  even  of  slight  bars  of  cast-iron.  In  slirubberies 
and  large  flower-plots,  verges  of  grass-turf,  about  a  foot 
in  breadth,  make  a  very  handsome  border  to  walks. 
These  should  not  be  allowed  to  rise  high  above  the 
gravel :  an  inch  and  a  half  may  be  assigned  as  the  limit 
they  should  not  exceed.  The  grass  is  kept  short  by  re- 
peated mowings,  and  the  edges  are  defined  by  clipping 
with  shears,  or  cutting  with  a  paring-iron. 

Shrubs. — Much  of  the  beauty  of  the  pleasure  garden 
depends  upon  the  proper  selection  and  disposition  of 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs;  and  it  is  to  be  regretted 
that  this  department  of  the  art  has  often  been  greatly 
neglected.  In  many  English  gardens  we  still  find  only 
a  few  evergreens,  and  a  parcel  of  rugged  deciduous 
species,  introduced  probably  before  the  age  of  Miller. 
No  wonder,  therefore,  that  we  sametimes  hear  complaints 
of  the  insipid  appearance  of  the  shrubbery.  Neverthe- 
less, shrubs  are  highly  elegant  in  themselves,  and  they 
afford  a  most  efficient  means  of  diversifying  garden 
scenery.'  Of  the  many  beautiful  species  now  to  be  had 
in  Britain,  and  aff^ording  the  materials  of  exquisite  de- 
coration, we  can  mention  only  a  few.  For  extensive 
lists  and  for  much  general  information,  we  may  once 
more  refer  to  the  work  of  the  late  Mr.  Loudon,  a  new 
and  improved  edition  of  which  has  been  published  by 
his  talented  widow,  well  known  in  the  literary  world 
for  her  varied  writings,  and  especially  for  her  popular 
treatises  on  Botany  and  Floriculture. 

Of  Evergreens,  besides  the  Common  Laurel  (Prunus 
Laurocerasus)  and  the  Portugal  Laurel  (P.  Lusitanica.)^ 
we  have  noticed  the  American  Arborvit.03  (Thuja  occi- 
dentalis),  as  adapted  to  large  masses  of  shrubs;  and  the 
Chinese  Arborvitfc  (T.  orientals),  whose  size  and  mode 

22* 


254  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

of  growth  fit  it  for  smaller  compartments.  The  differ- 
ent varieties  of  Rhamnus  Alaternus,  and  the  species  of 
Philljrea  and  Juniperus,  have  long  and  deservedly  been 
favorite  evergreens.  The  Sweet  Bay  (Laurus  nobilis), 
in  favorable  situations,  rises  into  a  handsome  shrub  or 
low  tree,  and  may  convey  to  the  student  of  the  classics 
an  idea  of  the  Delphic  laurel.  The  Strawberry  tree 
(Arbutus  Unedo),  a  native  of  Ireland  as  well  as  of  the 
south  of  Europe,  will  always  find  a  place  as  one  of  the 
most  elegant  of  plants,  equally  beautiful  as  regards 
foliage,  flower,  and  fruit :  nor  should  its  compatriot, 
the  Irish  Yew,  ascending  like  the  pillared  cypress,  be 
forgotten.  The  Cypress  itself,  though  rather  a  denizen 
of  the  park,  may  be  sparingly  introduced.  The  Lau- 
rustinus  (Viburnum  Tinus),  with  blossoms  approach- 
ing the  snow  in  whiteness,  enlivens  the  winter  season, 
wJien  little  'else  is  in  .flower  in  the  shrubbery.  The 
Swedish  and  Irish  Junipers  deserve. a  place.  Diff'erent 
species  of  Daphne  will  not  be_  forgotten  ;  it  may  be 
sufficient  to  enumerate  pontics,  collina,  Cneorum,  and 
hybrida.  Several  species  of  Berberis  deserve  places; 
in  particular,  B.  aquifolia,  glumacea,  dulcis,  and  re- 
pens,  which  are  not  only  elegant  but  very  ha'rdy.  For 
a  long  time,  the  seasons  recommended  for  the  planting 
of  evergreens  were  either  the  spring  or  the  autumn ; 
but  experience  (as  fully  shown  by  Mr.  William  M'Nab 
in  his  Treatise  on  the  subject)  has  proved  that  the  tvin- 
ter  is  the  safest  and  most  appropiate  period  of  the  year. 
The  fragrant  jasmine  (Jasminum  ofiQcinale), ought  not 
to  be  forgotten.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  covering 
a  wall  or  a  trellis,  and  if  care  be  taken  not  to  prune 
away  too  many  of  the  young  shoots,  it  will  afford  its 
blossoms  abundantly.     It  may  also,'  by  cutting  in,  be 


SIIRUBF.  -255 

trained  up  as  a  small  standard  shrub,  or  it  may  be 
trimmed  to  a  single  stem  and  head,  potted,  and  placed 
in  the  green-house.  As  extremely  low  evergreens,  we 
may  mention  Gualtheria  procumbens-  and  Shallon, 
Polygala  Chamaebuxus,  and  Astragalus  Tragacantha ; 
but  these  would  probably  be  better  placed  among  what 
are  popularly  called  American  plants.  Of  the  more 
tender  evergreens,  we  should  name  the  Andrachne 
(Arbutus  Andrachne),  a  beautiful  shrub,  but  liable  to 
be  injured  by  severe  frosts ;  and  the  pittosporum 
Tobira  of  Japan,  with  glossy  foliage  and  fragrant 
flowers.  The  Broad-leaved  Myrtle  (Myrtus  Romana), 
in  warm  places,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  covering  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  may  be  made  to  clothe  the  wall  with 
its  brilliant  verdure  for  eight  months-  in  the  year,  and 
with  its  white  flowers  for  some  weeks  in  the  end  of 
summer.  Treated  in  the  same  way,  the  noble  Magnolia 
grandiflora  (particularly  the  Exmouth  variety)  will 
yield  its  large  and  fragrant  blossoms.  Aucuba  Japonica 
and  Buxus  Balearica  are  handsome  shrubs,  of  a  some- 
what stronger  constitution  ;  the  former  is  very  orna- 
mental in  dull  shady  places,  where  no  other  shrub  will 
grow,  and  it  withstands  severe  frost,  which  destroys 
laurustinus.  The  beautiful  tribes  of  Cistus  and  Heli- 
anthemum,  some-  of  which  are  quite  hardy,  are  well 
adapted  for  adorning  sloping  banks. 

Amongst  the  shrubs  that  require  a  peaty  soil,  or  at 
least  a  damp  and  shady  situation,  the  splendid  genus 
Rhododendron  holds  the  principal  place..  Of  the- larger 
species  may  be  mentioned  R.  Ponticum,  Catawbiense, 
and  Maximum,  with  their  numerous  hybrid-  varieties. 
In  early  spring,  R.  Dauricura  and  atrovirens  expand 
their  blossoms    among  the  first  of    flowering    shrubs. 


256  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Nor  should  we  overlook  punctatiim,  ferrngineum,  and 
Chamsecistus,  of  humbler  growth,  but  not  inferior  in 
;  beaut  J.  AYith  these  the  closely  cognate  genus  of  Aza- 
lea, with  its  multudinous  species  and  varieties,  disputes 
the  palm  of  elegance.  The  pale  and  drooping  Andro- 
medas  are  scarcely  of  inferior  interest.  The  hardy 
Heaths,  particularly  Erica  carnea,  tetralix,  and  stricta, 
Men'ziezia  polifolia  and  coerulea,  and  the  Canadian  Rho- 
dora,  combine  to  bring  up  the  rear  of^this  department 
of  Flora's  train. 

The  deciduous  flowering  shrubs  are  too  much  neg- 
lected in  many  gardens.  They  are  seldom  well  ma- 
naged, either  in  point  of  arrangement  or  of  pruning,  for 
the  production  of  picturesque  effect.  Very  often  they 
are  huddled  together  promiscuously,  and  grow  up  into 
the  shape  of  huge  sheaves  of  rushes.  With  judicious 
management,  there  are  no  finer  objects  in  the  vegetable 
kingdom  than  the  common  Lilac  (Syringa  vulgaris),  or 
the  hybrid  Varin  (S.  Rathomngensis),  or  even  the  old 
Gueldres-Rose  (Viburnum  Opulus),  with  ''  her  silver 
globes,  light. as.  the  foamy  surf.''  Another  species,  the 
Crimped-leaved  Gucldres-Rose  (V.  plicatum),  produces 
flowers  more  abundantly,  and  is  therefore  still  more 
ornamental.  Nor  ought  the  Mock-orange  (Philadel- 
phus  coronarius)  to  be  neglected  ;  for,  while  the  flowers 
are  ornamental,  their  or-ange  perfume  is  powerful. 

It  would  lead  us  into  disproportioned  detail  to  specify 
a  tithe  of  those  showy  shrubs  which  should  be  dear  to 
every  floriculturist.  Suffice  it  to  name  Ribes  sangui- 
neum  (of  which  a  double-flowered  variety  and  also  a 
white  variety  have  lately  appeared),  Daphne  mezereum, 
Spartium  of  many  species,  Cystisus,  Amygdalus,  and 
Pyrus.      The     Ribes    speciosiim,   or    Fuchsia-flowered 


SHRUBS.  257 

gooseberry,  seems  to  require  the  protection  of  a  wall, 
but  deserves  it.  The  fine  suffruticose  plant  Paeonia 
Moutan  requires  a  sheltered  position  in  the  shrubbery, 
where,  in  May  and  June,  its  flowers  excel  all  others  in 
magnificence.  Two  species  of  Garrya,  from  the  higher 
parts  of  Mexico,  have  of  late  been  added  to  our  choice 
evergreen  shrubs.  G.  elliptica  flowers  in  winter,  if  the 
season  be  open,  and  succeeds  well  if  trained  against  a 
south  wall  ;  its  male  catkins  are  long,  and  hang  down 
very  gracefully,  so  that  the  plant  forms  a  fine  accom- 
paniment to  the  Laurustinus.  G.  laurifolia  is  equally 
hardy,  and  forms  a  handsome  shrub.  From  the  list 
published  by  Mrs.  Loudon,  any  one  might  form  such 
a  collection  as,  when  properly  arranged,  would  pro- 
duce all  the  variety  and  beauty  expected  from  the 
shrubbery. 

There  are  many  fine  climbing  shrubs,  such  as  the  spe- 
cies of  Clematis,  particularly  grandiflora  and  Sieboldtii, 
and  of  Lonicera  or  honeysuckle ;  the  Passiflora  coeru- 
lea,  with  its  curious  and  beautiful  flowers ;  and  Aristo- 
lochia  Sipho,  remarkable  for  the  size  and  elegance  of 
its  foliage.  Others,  though  not  precisely  of  this  class, 
are  much  beholden  to  the  shelter  of  a  wall,  such  as 
the  Cercis  siliquastrum  or  Judas-tree,  and  Edwardsia 
tetraptera  and  microphylla.  Among  those  of  recent 
introduction  into  England  may  be  noticed  Leycesteria 
formosa,  Glycine  Sinensis,  Eccremocarpus  scaber,  and 
Sollya  heterophylla.  ^  Some  herbaceous, creepers  suc- 
ceed admirably  when  trained  against  a  wall  in  the  open 
garden ;  particularly  Maurandia  s^mperflorens  and  Bar- 
clayana,  and  Lopliospermum  scandens  and  erubescens. 
The  numerous  species  or  varieties  of  Fuchsia,  when 
planted  against  the  wall,  or  even  in  the  open  ground, 


258  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

and  protected  with  an  occasional  covering  in  winter, 
convej  to  us  a  better  idea  of  the  riches  of  Chilian  vege- 
tation than  when  they  are  confined  to  the  shelves  of 
the  green-house.  Among  the  more  ornamental  hardy 
varieties  may  be  mentioned  F.  discolor  and  F.  Riccar- 
tonia  ;  and  particularly  F.  corymbiflora,  perhaps  the 
finest  of  all.  Many  roses  are  also  well  adapted  for 
walls,  such  as  the  varieties  of  Noisette,  Boursault,  and 
the  different  species  from  China. 

A  separate  compartment,  called  the  Rosary,  is  ge- 
nerally devoted  to-the  cultivation  of  roses.  It  is  often 
of  an,  ovaL  form,  with  concentric  beds,,  and.  narrow 
intervening  walks  of  grass  or  gravel,,  but  it  may  assume 
any  configuration  which  is  suited  to  display  this  favor- 
ite plant.  Of  the  thousand  varieties  of  roses  which 
exist  in  the  English  nurseries,  we  pretend  not  to  give 
any  selection.  It  may^  however,  be  remarked,  that  in 
planting  the  Rosary,  care  should  be  taken  to  classify 
the  sorts  according  to  the  sizes  and  affinities,  otherwise 
the  effect  will  be  much  impaired.  The  sorts  are  gene- 
rally classed  as  Damasks,  Perpetuals,  French  Roses, 
Chinese  Roses,  Scotch,  Celestials,  and  Moss  Roses.  A 
variety  of  double-flowering  Sweet  Briers  have  been  re- 
cently added  to  their  number,  uniting  the  beauty  of 
the  double  rose  and  the  fragrance  of  the  brier.  The 
climbing  sorts  niay  be. advantageously  introduced,  being 
trained  to  pillar-like  trellises.  In  the  Royal  Botanic 
Garden  of  Edinburgh  they  are  trained  to  living  posts, 
consisting  of  straight  poplars,  closely  pollarded,  so  as 
to  show  only  a  few  leaves  at  top.  The  Banksian  Rose 
is  one  of  the  finest  climbers,  but  has  this  peculiarity, 
that  the  flowers  are  produced  only  on  shoots  of  one 
year's  growth  ;  the  pruning  must  therefore  take  place 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  259 

at  midsummer,  so  as  to  allow  time  for  the  develop- 
ment of  new  shoots;  if  done  in  the  autumn  there  can 
be  no  roses  next  season.  In  Scotland  it  is  suited  only 
for  the  conservatory.  When  the^  rosary  is  extensive,  it 
is  judicious  to  intersperse  some  of  the  most  showy  hol- 
lyhocks ;  for  thus  the  beauty  of  the  quarter  is  main- 
tained in  the  later  months  of  autumn,  when  the  roses 
are  chiefly  past.  Of  late  years-,  q[uantities  of  standard 
roses  have  been  imported  from  the  Continent.  These 
are  the  finer  sorts,  budded  on  tall  stalks  of  the  wild 
species,  such  as  R.  villosa  and  canina.  They  are  well 
adapted  to  stand  singly  on  the  little  lawns  in  flower- 
gardens,  or  to  break  the  uniformity  of  low  flower  bor- 
ders. 

All  shrubs  nearly  may  be  propagated  by  layers,  some 
by  budding  or  grafting,  many  by  separating  the  roots. 
In  planting  out,  shrubs  may  be  arranged  either  singly 
or  in  masses;  the  latter  method  is  perhaps  the  most 
efficient  in  the  production  of  efl'ect,  but  it  should  not  be 
very  servilely  adhered  to,  as  it  is  apt  to  produce  mono- 
tony. Some  kinds  should  never  appear  in  masses; 
the  white  Portugal  broom,  for  instance,  when  so  ar- 
ranged, gives  a  limy  tint  to  a  garden.  Perhaps  it  is 
better  that  groups  should  contain  a  predominance  of 
one  shrub,  set  off  by  a  few  others  of  a  contrasting 
figure  or  color,  than  that  they  should  be  entirely  homo- 


IIERBACEOUS    PLANTS. 

Common  perennial  flowers,  whether^  strictly  herba- 
ceous or  bulbous,  aff"ord  the  principal  materials  for  floral 
decoration.     Eotany  supplies,  as  it  were,  the   colors 


260  FLOWER  GARDEX. 

for  the  picture,  and'  gardening  grinds  and  prepares  them 
for  use.  The  painting  is  continually  varying,  aftd  new 
shades  are  arriving  and  departing  in  succession.  The 
least  cansideration  of  the  subject  will  suggest  the  rule, 
that  in  planting  flowers  they  should  be  arranged  ac- 
cording, to  their  stature,  otherwise  many  of '  the  most 
beautiful  would  be  lost  among  their  taller  compeers. 
The  lowest  plants  should  therefore  stand  next  the  mar- 
gin of  the  border  or  parterre,  and  they  should  increase 
in  height  as  they  go  back.  To  produce  a  full  show,  a 
profusion,  just  now  amounting  to  crowding,  is  requisite. 
The  flower-plots  should  present  a  regular  bank  of 
foliage  and  blossom,  rising  gradually  from  the  front; 
but  as  this  might  convey  an  idea  of  too  great  precision, 
a  few  staring  plants,  on  the  same  principle  as  those 
employed  in  green-houses,  should  be  thinly  scattered 
over  the  surface.  These  may  be  shrubs,  or  any  tall 
showy  plants,  such  as  Becconia  cardata,  Papaver  brac- 
teatum,  Gladiolus  Byzantinus,  or  Lilium  candidum. 

Tall  2^erenniah. — Lilium  giganteum,  superbum,  chal- 
cedonicum.  Asphodelus  ramosus,  or  silver-rtfd.  Phlox 
pyramidalis.  Monarda  didyma,  kalmiana,  ciliata. 
Veronica  sibirca,  virginica.  Campanula  pyramidalis. 
Lychnis  chalcedonica,  fl.  pi.  or  double  scarlet  lychnis; 
also,  single  white  and  double  white.  Fritillaria  imperi- 
alis,  or  Crown  imperial.  Rudbeckia  purpurea.  Cle- 
matis integrjfolia.  Chelone  barbata,  scarlet,  and  also 
wdiite,  with  Chelone  mexicana,  and  C.  antwerpiensis. 
Delphinium  grandiflorum,  fl.  pi.  or  double  larkspur. 
Aconitum  Anthora,  lycoctonura,  Chinense.  Astelbe 
rivukris.  Aceta  racemosa.  Asclepias  incarnata. 
Aconitum  versicolor.  Delphinium  amythestinum.  Sil- 
phium  perfoliatum  and  conjunctum. 

Plants  to  he  kept  under  glass  during    Winter^  and 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  261 

plantedout  in  May. — Lychnis  (Agrostemma)  Bungeana, 
PelargoHium  inquinans,  cucuUatum,  and  many  hybrid 
varieties  of  great  beauty.  Verbena  varieties.  Alonosa 
elegans.  Phlox  Drummondii  and  bicolor.  Lobelia  for- 
mosa,  propinqua.  Nierembergia  intermedia.  Lantana 
Selloviana,  Gardoquia  multiflora.  Salvia  patens. 
Mahva  Crowena.  Cineraria,  different  species.  Vero- 
nica speciosa.  Isotoma  axillaris.  Anagallis  Monelli, 
grandiflora  ccerulea,  Phillipsii.  Trachelium  coeruleum. 
Lobelia  ignea,  Milleri,  splendens  violacea.  Pentstemon 
coboea,  Murrayanus.  Gardoquia  betonicoides.  Agathe 
coelestis.  Ageratum  coslestinum.  Calceolaria,  Prince 
Albert  and  floribunda.  Petunia,  Prince  Alfred-Ernest, 
Dnchess  of  Kent,  and  Simpsonii. 

The  management  of  color  is  more  difficult.  ^  When 
the  long  duration  of  the  flowering  season  is  considered, 
it  will  be  obvious  that  it  is  impossible  to  keep  up  the 
show  of  a  single  border  or  plot  for  six  months  together, 
and  consequently,  that  much  of  the  labor  employed 
in  mixing  colors  is  misspent,  since  plants,  as  they  are 
commonly  arranged,  come  dropping  into  flower  one 
after  another:  and  even  where  a  certain  number  are 
in  bloom  at  the  same  time,  they  necessarily  stand  apart, 
and  so  the  eff'ects  of  contrast,  which  can  be  perceived 
only  among  adjacent  objects,  are  entirely  lost.  To 
obviate  this  defect,-  it  has  been  recommended  that 
ornamental  plants  should  be  formed  into  four  or  five 
separate  suites  of  flowering,  to  be  distributed  over  the 
garden.  Not  to  mention  the  more  vernal  flower,  the 
first  might  contain  the  flora  of  May;  the  second  that  of 
June;  the  third  that  of  July;  and  the  fourth  the  tribes 
of  August  and  the  following  months.  These  plants 
should   be   kept   in   separate   compartments,   arranged 


262  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

either  singly  or  in  masses;  but  the  compartments  them- 
selves should  be  so  intermingled  as  that  no  particular 
class  should  be  entirely  absent  from  any  one  quarter  of 
the  garden.  The  May  parterres  should,  however,  chiefly 
occur  in  the  vicinity  of  the  green-house  or  conservatory, 
or,  when  these  are  absent,  in  a  warm  sunny  situation. 
The  flowerings  of  June  and  July,  as  being  highly  showy, 
should  occupy  the  most  conspicuous  parts  of  the  garden. 
The  autumnal  perennials,  not  being  so  imposing,  may 
retire  into  the  more  secluded  situations,  as  they  are  sup- 
planted by  the  superior  brilliancy  of  the  annuals,  which 
then  fill  the  vacated  beds  of  florists'  flowers,  or  are 
scattered  over  the  faded  clumps  of  May  and  June. 

Before  attempting  to  plant,  the  floriculturist  would 
do  well  to  construct  tables  or  lists  of  flowers,  specifying 
tbeir  respective  times  of  flow^ering,  their  colors,  and 
altitudes.  These  tables,  when  skillfully  used,  would 
prevent  mistakes,  produce  a  greater  facility  of  execu- 
tion, and  put  the  colors  nearly  as  much  under  control 
as  they  are  on  the  painter's  pallet.  To  diversify  pro- 
perly and  mingle  well  together  the  reds,  whites,  purples, 
yellows,  and  blues,  with  all  their  intervening  shades, 
requires  considerable  taste  and  powers  of  conception; 
but  if  success  is  not  attained  in  the  first  attempt,  inac- 
curacies should  be  noted,  and  rectified  at  the  proper  time 
next  season.  Certain  series  of  colors  have  been  given, 
but  these  it  is  needless  to  mention,  as  it  is  not  very  ma- 
terial whether  the  first  flower  in  a  row  be  red  or  white. 
The  principal  object  is  to  preserve  an  agreeable  con- 
trast; and  as  at  particular  seasons  a  monotony  of  tint 
prevails,  it  is  useful  at  such  times  to  be  in  possession  of 
some  strong  glaring  colors.  White,  for  instance, 
should  be  much  employed  in  July,  to  break  the  duller 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  263 

blues  and  purples  which  then  preponderate.  The  orange 
lily,  too,  is  very  effective  at  that  season.  On  the  other 
hand,  yellows  are  superabundant  in  autumn,  and  there- 
fore i-^ds  and  blues  should  then  be  sought  for. 

Besides  mere  vividness  of  color  and  elegance  of  form, 
there  are  other  qualities  which  render  plants  desirable 
in  the  flower  garden.  Whoever  has  visited  a  botanic 
garden,  must  have  been  sensible  of  an  interest  excited 
by  tlie  curious  structure  of  some  plants,  or  by  their 
rarity.  Even  quaintness  of  form  is  deserving  of  atten- 
tion; and  on  this  principle.  Allium  fistulosum  (the  com- 
mon Welsh  onion)  may  be  allowed  to  figure  in  a  flower 
border.  At  the  same  time,  it  must  be  admitted  that 
such  expedients  should  be  employed  with  reserve.  No 
handsome  plant  should  be  rejected  because  it  is  common, 
nor  any  ill-favored  one  introduced  merely  because  it  is 
scarce.  The  flower-gardener  should  have  a  small  nur- 
sery frame  for  the  propagation  of  the  finer  plants,  so 
as  to  have  at  hand  a  stock,  to  be  transferred  into  the 
borders  as  often  as  required. 

Numerous  specimens  of  such  showy  plants  as  Verbena 
Brillii,  atro-sanguinea,  and  Mont  Blanc,  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii,  with  Scarlet  Geraniums,  Petunias,  Salvias,  and 
Fuchsias,  may  easily  be  kept  oyer  winter,  in  a  green- 
house or  vinery,  in  the  very  small  pots  called  "  thumbs," 
ready  to  be  plunged  in  the  open  borders  in  May  ;  where 
they  uniformly  bloom  with  much  greater  vigor  and 
brilliancy  than  under  glass. 

We  shall  here  enumerate  merely  the  names  of  a  few 
of  the  most  ornamental  flowers,  adapted  to  the  British 
flower  garden.* 

*  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  by  the  American  floricultiirist 
that  the  times  and  seasons  here  referred  to  are  those  of  Ensland, 


264  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Vernal  Herbaceous  Plants. — Ilelleborus  niger,  livi- 
dus ;  Eraiitbus  hyemivlis  ;  Hepatica  triloba,  var.  ;  Pri- 
mula vulgaris  var.,  veris,  elatior,  raarginata,  beWetica, 
nivalis,  viscosa,  integrifolia,  cortusoides  ;  Cortusa  Ma- 
tbioli ;  Soldanella  alpina,  Clusii ;  Viola  odorata  double- 
flowered,  tricolor,  biflora,  altaica ;  Dodecatheon  Meadia 
vars.  ;  Orobus  vernus ;  Adonis  vernalis  ;  Orapbalodes 
verna ;  Corydalis  lutea,  longiflora;  Sanguinaria  cana- 
densis ;  Iris  pumila ;  Anemone  apennina,  Halleri,  Pulsa- 
tilla :  Sisjrincbium  grandiflorum.. 

Vernal  Plants. — Gentiana  verna,  acaulis.  Saxifraga 
oppositifolia.  Genista  Scorpius.  Hepatica  Americana. 
Dondia  eplpactus.  Orobus  vernus,  fl.  pi.  Arabis  gran- 
diflora.  Heterotropa  asaroides.  Nordmannia  cordi- 
folia.     Aubretia  deltoidea. 

Vernal  Bulbous  Plants. — Galantbus  nivalis  ;  Leu- 
coium  vernum  ;  Crocus,  various  species  ;  Cyclamen  coum, 
vernjam ;  Corydalis  bulbosa  ;  Erythroniura  Dens  canis  ; 
Narcissus  Pseudo-narcissus,  moschatus,  odorus,  Jon- 
quilla,  &c. ;  Fritillaria  imperalis,  meleagris,  persica; 
Gagea  lutea;  Tulipa  sylvestris ;  Iris  persica;  Trillium 
grandiflorum,  &c.,  Scilla  verna,  praecox,  bifolia,  sibirica. 
Smilacina  umbellata ;  Galanthus  plicatus ;  Sisyrinchium 
grandiflorum  ;  Leontice  altaica  ;  Trichonema  bulboco- 
dium ;  Ery tbronium  longifolium  ;  Symplocarpus  foetidus, 
or  skunk-flower ;  Ajax  exigua,  nana  major  and  minor; 
Merendera  caucasica;  Scilla  amcena ;  Saxifraga  granu- 
lata,  fl.  pi.  Claytonia  virginica. 

Herbaceous  Plants  floivering  in  May. — Anemone 
narcissiflora,  sylvestris,  dicbotoma  ;   Primula  farinosa, 

and  will  be  found  not  precisely  to  correspond   with  the  precise 
times  of  planting  in  any  one  part  of  the  United  States. 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  265 

scotica ;  Convallaria  majalis ;  Uvularia  grandiflora, 
perfoliata  :  Phlox  divaricata,  subulata,  setacea,  &c.  ;- 
Aspliodelus  luteus,  ramosus  ;  Draba,  Aizoides  ;  Viola 
cornuta,  obliqua ;  Gentiana  verna,  acaulis ;  Lupinus 
polyphyllus  ;  Gaillardia  bicolor  ;  Iris  florentina,  cristata, 
&c. — Bulbs  :  Leiicoium  gestivum,  Scilla  non-scripta,  itali- 
ca,  &c.  Hjacinthus  monstrosus;  Muscari  moschatum, 
botyroides,  eomosum;  Narcissus  Bulbocodium,  poeticus. 
Tiarella  cordifolia  ;  Mitella  diphjlla  ;  Arenaria  verna, 
and  a  variety  with  double  flowers :  Verbascum  Myconi. 
Asperula  odorata,  the  sweet  woodroof  of  our  woods. 
Houstonia  coerulea ;  Pulmonaria  azurea,  officinalis. 
Trollius  asiaticus  ;  Symphytum  asperrimum  ;  Onosma 
echioides ;  Aretia  alpina  ;  Androsace  maxima  ;  Soldan- 
ella  montana  ;  Linnaea  borealis  ;  Waldstenia  geoides. 
Aquilegia  canadensis  and  venusta ;  Dodecatheon  Media 
and  integrifolia ;  Epimedium  Muscbianum  and  violaceum . 
Spirsea  venusta. 

Bulbous.  —  Ornithogalum  umbellatum,  pyrenaicum, 
narbonense,  nutans ;  Leucojum  vernum ;  Narcissus 
dubius,  Tacetta ;  Puschkinia  scilloides  ;  Scilla  esculen- 
ta,  the  qua^iash  of  the  American  Indians  ;  S.  japonica, 
campanukta,  and  peruviana. 

June. — ■Herbaceous  Plants  :  P^gonia  officinalis^  albi- 
flora,  corallina,  Humii,  &c. ;  Dianthus,  species  ;  Gera- 
nium saugnnieum,  Lancastriense,Wallichianumj  striatum, 
&;c. ;  Monarda  didyma,  Ka^miana  ;  Papaver  bracteatum ; 
Saxifraga,  species ;  Spiraea,  species ;  Mimulus  Har- 
risonii,  atro-roseus,  moschatus  ;  Trollius  Araericanus, 
europiBus;  Lysimachia  verticillata  ;  Veronica  latifolia, 
&c. ;  Geum  coccineum  ;  Aconitum  napellus,  &c. ;  Potentilla 
nepalonsis,  &c. — Bulbs  :  Allium  Moly,  Gladiolus  psitta- 
cinus,  communis;  Lilium  Pomponium,  bulbifcrum,  auran- 


266  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

tiacum,  monadelphum,  penduliflorum,  concolor,  &c.;  Iris 
Xiphium,  Xipliioide^ ;  Myosotis  alpestris ;  Anchusa 
italica ;  Pentstemon  Richardsonii ;  Actsea  spicata  ; 
Koniga  maritima  ;  Alyssum  saxatile  ;  Smilacina  stellata  ; 
Polemonium  cceruleum ;  Pneonia,  different  species ; 
Mirabillis  jalapa  ;  Dianthus  grandifloriis  and  splendid- 
issimus ;  Delphinium  Guthrianum ;  Phlox  bicolor ; 
Aconitum  bicolor  ;  .Aconitum  ovatum  ;  Potentilla  May- 
ana,  atro-sanguinea,  Hopwoodiana,  and  Thomasii ;  Ono- 
nis rotundifolia  ;  Lychnis  flos-cuculi,  fl.  alba  pi.  Aquil- 
egia  glauca,  fragrans,  and  Brownii. 

Bulbous  and  tuberous.^CyQ.cki2i  liliastrum  ;  Phalan- 
gium  liliago;  Ornithogalum  nutans  Eremurus  specta- 
bilis;  Uvularia  sessilifolia,  lanceolata;  Arum  triphyllum; 
Arum  Dracunculus  and  Virginianum  ;  Asphodilus  albus 
and  creticus;  Convallaria  multiflora;  O^xalis  Bonariensis, 
alba,  and  rubra;  Scilla  pratensis;  Funkia  Sieboldtii, 
lanceolata  marginata,  undulata  variegata. 

JuIt/. — Ilei'haceous  PIcmts  :  Phlox  intermedia,  and 
many  other  species  of  that  fine  genus;  Pentstemon, 
numerous  species  ;  (Enothera,  various  species  ;  Cam- 
panula persicifolia,  &c.;  Morinia  longiflora  ;  Delphinum 
Barlowii ;  Asclepias  amoena,  syriaca ;  Iris  fulva,  pallida, 
variegata ;  Gentiana  lutea,.  asclepiadea,  cruciata,  sep- 
temfida,  &c. ;  Chelone  obliqua,  barbata,  hy oni. ^- Bulbs: 
Lilium  martagon,  canadense,  tigrinum,  superbum,  &c.  ; 
Tigridiapavonia,  Commelinacoelestis,  Cyclamen  hederse- 
folium ;  Phlox  omniflora,  P.  Van  Ilouttii,  Princess  Marian, 
new  striped  varieties ;  Pentstemon  gentianoides,  and' 
var.  coccinea,  alba,  and  new  blue.  Calceolaria  integ- 
rifolia,  rugosa,  rubra,  and  many  pretty  hybrids  between 
the  Chili  species.  Verbena,  irAzf^s-,  Ada,  candidissima, 
Avalanche,  and  Queen  of   Whites  ;  Scarlets,  Bakerii, 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  267 

Boule  de  feu,  Chandlerii,  and  Eftglefieklil ;  Purples^ 
Charlwoodii,  Neillii,  Emma,  and  Hudsonii ;  Crimsons, 
Defiance,  Emperor,  Louis  Phillippe,  and  Stewartii ; 
Salmon,  Beautd  Supreme,  Aurora,  Sunbeam,  and  ele- 
gantissima  ;  Rose,  Coquett,  excelsa,  modesta,  and  Queen 
of  England.  Lupinus  grandifolius  ;AlstrcEmeria  aurea; 
Tradescantia  virginica,  or  blue  spiderwort,  and  also 
varieties  with  white  and  with  purple  flowers.  Antirrhi- 
num caryophilloides  ;  Boule  de  feu,  quadricolor  cocci- 
nea,  Youngii,  picta,  superba,  and  tubiflora;  Petunia, 
Kentish  Beauty,  Prince  Alfred-Ernest,  Rising  Sun, 
Hebe,  and  Attraction  ;  Anemone  vitifolia  ;  Gypsophila 
altissima;  Geum  coccineum;  Cypella  Herbertii;  Stachys 
inodora,  speciosa  ;  Lobelia  pyramidalis. 

Autumnal  Herbaceous  Plants  :  Phlox  decussata,  py- 
ramidalis, tardiflora,  bicolor,  &c. ;  Lobelia  cardinalis, 
fulgens,  sple.ndens,  &c.  \  Aster  &ibiricus,  amellus,  pul- 
cher,  &c. ;  Solidagp,  several  species  ;  Acoriitura  japoni- 
cum,  volubile,  variegatum  ;  Gentiana  ;  Saponaria. — 
Bulbs :  Colchicum  autumnale  ;  Crocus  nudiflorus,  sero- 
tinus ;  Tritoma,  pallida,  media ;  Lavatera  arborea ; 
Eupatorium  cannabinum  ;  Stevia  salicifolia  ;  Saponaria 
officinalis,  with  double  flowers  ;  Nepeta  longiflora ; 
Statice  latifolia ;  Salvia  confertiflora;  Dahlias  of  many 
sorts  ;  Astelbe  rivularis  ;  Phlox  elegans ;  Campanula 
lactiflora  ;  Gladiolus  Gandavensis  ;  Achillea  Ptarmica, 
fl.  plen  ;  Aster  diffusus,  floribundus,  foliosus,  panicula- 
tus,  and  spectabilis  ;  Chelone  obliqua ;  Coreopsis  ver- 
tieillata;  Eupatorium  purpureum;  Helianthus  giganteus 
and  macrophyllus ;  Liatris,  scariosa,  spicata,  macros- 
tachya,  and  pyenostachya  ;  Serratula  coronata  'and  cen- 
tauroides. 

It  is- with  regret  that  we  thus  confine  ourselves  to  a 


268  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

dry  list  of  border  flowers  ;  but  to  classify  and  charac- 
terize them  with  anything  like  justice  would  require 
many  pages.  Within  the  last  few  years  great  acces- 
sions of  desirable  plants  have  been  made  to  our  stores. 
The  Lupines  and  Pentstemons  from  Columbia  River, 
the  Verbenas  and  Calceolarias  from  South  America, 
and  the  Potentillas  and  Geraniums  from  Nepal,  have 
in  a  great  measure  changed  the  face  of -our  flower  gar- 
dens. While  our  riches  have  multiplied,  the  difiiculty, 
as  well  as  the  necessity,  of  making  a  selection  has  also 
increased. 

Most  herbaceous  perennial  plants  are  propagated  by 
parting  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings  ;  but  some  more  con- 
veniently by  the  sowing  of  seed. 

Biennial  Plants. — Plants  wl^ose  existence  is  limited 
to  two  years,  in  the  latter  of  which  they  flower  and  then 
decay,  are  called  biennials.  Many  of  them  possess  con- 
siderable beauty  ;  and  by  their  easy  propagation,  an<l 
rapid  growth,  they  aff*ord  a  ready  means  of  decorating 
borders.  The  following  may  be  considered  most,  worthy 
of  notice;  Agrostemma  coronaria;  Antirrhinum  majus; 
Hedysarura  coronarium  ;  Lunaria  biennis  ;  Campanula 
media:  (Enothera.  sinuata,  biennis  ;  Verbascum  for- 
mosumj  Althsea  grandiflora,  Scabiosa  atro-purpurea, 
Mathiola  simplicicaulis.  Digitalis  purpurea,  var.  mon- 
strosa  or  campanulata.  Erysimum  .Perowfskianum. 
(Enothera  Drummondii ;  Iberis  Tenoriana ;  Althoea 
grandiflora;  Linaria  tristis  ;  Mathiola  incana;  Ch^i- 
ranthus  fruticulosus,  with  double  flowers ;  Lunaria  bien- 
nis, or  moonwort,  the  large  silvery  ^ilicles  of  which  are 
more  ornamental  than  its  flowers  ; -Frasera  carolinen- 
sis  ;  Ammobium  alatum  ;  Anchusa  italica  ;  Erytholsena 
conspicua  ;  French  Honeysuckle.     When  a  very  desir- 


ANNUAL  PLANTS.  269 

able  variety  of  any  plant  is  procured,  such  as  the  striped 
Antirrhinum  magus,  or  doubl-e  varieties  of  Wall-flower, 
Sweet  William,  or  Mule  Pinks,  attention  should  be  paid 
to  the  striking  of  cuttings  during  the  summer,  as  the 
only  sure  means  of  continuance. 

Biennials  are  sown  in  beds  in  the  end  of  spring,  and 
are  generally  transplanted  in  the  course  of  the  autumn 
into  the  places  where  they  are  intended  to  stand,  that 
they  may  be  confirmed  before  winter,  and  shoot  up 
readily  into-flower  in  the  following  summer. 

Annual  Plants. — Many  of  the  annual  species,  though 
of  fugitive  duration,  are  possessed  of  much  beauty  of 
hue  and  elegance  of  form.  They  ^re  further  valuable 
from  their  pliability,  so  to  speak,  and  the  promptitude 
with  wdiich  they  may  be  used.  •  They  are  besides  of 
easy  culture,  many  requiring  nothing  more  than  to  have 
the  seeds  sown  in  the  spot  where  they  are  to  grow  and 
flourish.  Annuals  may  he  divided  into  three  classes, 
the  hardy,  the  half-hardy,  and  the  tender.  The  first 
class,  as  stated  above,  are  sown  at  once  in  the  ground 
which  they  are  to  occupy ;  the  half-hm^dy  succeed  best 
when  aided  at  first  by  a  slight  hotbed,  and  then  trans- 
planted into  the  open  air;  the  tender  are  kept  in  pots, 
and  treated  as  green-house  or  stove  plants,  to  which  de- 
partments they  properly  belong.  It  is  scarcely  neces- 
sary to  remark,  that  the  hardy  and  half-hardy  sorts  may 
be  grown  either  in  patches  or  in  beds,  and  are' subjected 
to  all  the  rules  which  regulate  the  disposition  of  common 
border  flowers.      -    . 

Hardy  Annuals. — Pl§itystemon  citlifornicus  ;  Col- 
lomiii  coccinea ;  Leptosiphon  androsace  and  densiflo- 
rus ;  Viscaria  oculata  and  Binneyii ;  Valerianella  con- 
gesta :     Eucharidium     concinnum ;     Godetia    viscosa, 


270  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Lindlejana,  and  multiflora^,  Eutoca  multlflora,  viscida ; 
Campanula  speculum,  Lorii ;  Malope  trifida  ;  Hibiscus 
trionum,  bifrons ;  Nolana,  va-rious  speeies ;  Papaver 
somniferum,  numerous  varieties;  P.  Rhoeas,  varieties  ; 
Gilia  capitataj '  tricolor,  splendens  ;  Collinsia  grandi- 
flora  ;  bicolor ;  Kaulfussia  amelloides ;  Clarkia  pul- 
cliella,  elegans ;  CEnothera  rosea,  rosea-alba,  tencUa, 
Romanzovii ;  Senecio  elegans  :  Mathiola  annua  (ten- 
week  stock) ;  Aster  sinensis  (China  aster)  ;  Lupinus, 
several  species ;  Nemophila  insignis,  atomaria,  cram- 
boides,  discoidalis ;  Eschscholtzia  californica,  crocea ; 
Limnanthes  grandiflora  ;  Calandrina  grandiflora  ;  Bar- 
tonia  aurea  ;  Colinsia  bicolor,  verna,  heterophjlla ; 
Clintonia  pulchella,  elegans  ;  Malope  grandiflora ;  Lep- 
tosiphon  luteus ;  Platjstemon  californicum;  Collomia 
grandiflora ;  Coreopsis  diversifolia ;  Sanvitalia  pro- 
cumbcns ;  Phacelia  congesta,  tenacetifolia  ;  Caliopsis 
astrosanguinea  ;  Centaurea  Americana  ;  Lasthena  cali- 
fornica ;  Madia  elegans ;  Lupinus  bicolor,  elegans ; 
Helichrysum  mecranthum ;  Adonis  autumnalis  ;  Iberis 
umbellata  ;  Alyssum,  several  species  ;  Linaria,  va^i'ious 
species ;  Delphinium  Ajacis,  consolida  ;  Lavatera  tri- 
mestris;  Sphenogyne  speciosa  ;  .Cladanthus  arabicus; 
Schizanthus  Priestii ;  Eucaridium  grandiflorum  ;  Papa- 
ver Marsillii ;  Eutoca  Wrangeliana,  divaricata,  and 
Menziesii ;  Silene  armeria  ;  Rudbeckia  amplexicaulis.' 
Half-hardy  Annuals. — Callistema  hortense ;  Lopezia 
racemosa ;  Rhodanthe  Manglesii ;  Tagetes  patula 
(French  marigold),  erecta  (African  marigold),  race- 
mosa, &c. ;  Zinnia  elegans,  pauciflora  ;  Xeranthemum 
annuum,  Helichrysum  fulgidum,  Chrysanthemum  cari- 
natum  ;  Schizanthus  pinnatus,  porrigens,  <jrrahami, 
Hookeri ;    Salpiglossis  atro-purpurea,    picta  ;    Petunia 


ANNUAL  PLANTS.  271 

n jctaginiflora ;  Mirabilis  Jalapa  ;  Mesembryanthemum 
crjstalHnum,  tricolor,  white  and  red ;  Brachycoma 
iberidifolia  ;  Clintonia  elegans,  pulcbella  ;  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii,  with  its  varieties  ;  Campanula  stricta ;  Ipo- 
mopsis  elegans  ;  Argemone  grandiflora  ;  Didiscus  coeru- 
leus  ;  Ipomopsis  elegans;  Himnemannia  fumari^efolia  ; 
Ageratum  Mexicanum  ;  Limnanthus  Douglassii ;  Blu- 
menbachia  incana,  multifida ;  Heliophila  araboides ; 
Hibiscus  Africanus ;  Cosmus  tenuifolius ;  Calandrina 
discolor,  grandiflora  ;  Loasa  tricolor,  insignis,  lateritia; 
Anagallis  Indica,  lilacina ;  Salpiglossis  straminea ; 
Amaranthus  caudatus. 

Tender  Annuals. — Impaticns  Balsamina,  Browallia 
elata,  Celosia  cristata  (cockscomb),  Gomphrgena 
globosa ;  Solanum  melongena;  Ipora?ea  Quamoclit ; 
Mimosa  pudici  (humble  plant),  sensitiva  (sensitive 
plant) ;  Thunbergia  alata  ;  Hedysarum  gyrans,  or  mov- 
ing plant,  which,  in  our  hot-houses,  often  endure  for  two 
seasons  (as  do  also  Mimosa  pudica  and  sensitiva) ; 
Browallia  grandiflora  ;  Cleome'  rosea,  heterophylla  ; 
Scyphanthus  elegans  ;  Loasa  Pentlandica ;  Martynia 
proboscidea ;  Lisianthus  Russellianus. 

We  have  here  enumerated  only  a  small  selection  of 
species',*  out  of  a  multitude  which  is  continually  receiv- 
ing accessions.  A  good  many  of  th^  sorts  mentioned 
have  been  introduced  during  the  last  twenty  years;  and 
we  doubt  not  that,  in  an  equal  period  from  the  present, 
many  more  will  come  into  notice. 

Before  leaving  this  part  of  the  subject,  it  may  be 
proper  to  mention  that  it  is  now  the  practice  of  some 
florists  to  grow  and  treat  as  annuals,  or  rather  as  bien- 

Additional  lists  in  Appendix! 


272  FLOWEIl  GARDEN. 

nials,  great  quantities  of  the  more  liardj  Pelargonia, 
Verben^e,  Salvi?e,  Fuclisiie,  Petunioe,  and  other  genera. 
Grown  in  moderate-sized  pots,  they  are  kept  in  reserve 
in  frames  or  cold  vineries  during  winter.  About  the 
end  of  May,  or  as  soon  aa  there  is.  no  longer  any  ap- 
prehension of  injury  from  £i'Ost,  the  plants  are  taken 
out  of  the  pots  and  plunged  into  the  open  ground,  in 
any  warm  sunny  spot  or  clump  in  the  flower  garden. 
If  the  stems  be  long  or  naked,,  they  are  pegged  to  the 
earth.  Towards  the  middle  of  July  they  begin  to  grow 
vigorously,  and  in  August  or  September  present,  in 
luxuriance  at  least,  a  better  specimen  of  their  native 
vegetation  than  we- see  elsewhere  in  our  gardens.  Upon 
the  approach  of  frost  they  are,  in  general,  left  to  their 
fate,  as  it  is  easier  to  propagate  new  ones  than  to  pre- 
serve the  old.  These  plants,  with  some  of  the  fine  new 
annuals,  and  the  gorgeous  Dahlias,  .give  a  splendor  to 
the  autumnal  flower  garden  which  in  former  times  it  did 
not  possess. 

-    florists'  floaters.   . 

This  technical  appellation  has  been  restricted  to  cer- 
tain flowers,  which  have  been  especial  favorites  with 
florists,  and  have  consequently  received  a  large  share 
of  their  attention.*     Though  possessed  of  great  indi- 

*  The  finest  new  varieties  of  florists'  flowers,  as  well  as  novel- 
ties in  the  stri<?tly  botanical  department,  are  figured  and  describ- 
ed in  Harrison's  Floriculhiral  Cabinet,  a  cheap  monthly  periodi- 
cal, which  has  a  vast  circulation  in  England.  While  the  letter- 
press is  rather  deficient  in  botanical  precision,  and  the  engrav- 
ing sometimes  inferior  in  style  of  embellishment,  it  is  certain 
that  much  useful  information  may  be  gleaned  fi-ora  the  work, 


HYACINTHS.  273 

vidual  beauty,  few  of  them  are  calculated  to  make  a 
show  at  a  distance,  and  the  arrangements  requisite  for 
their  culture  do  not  harjnonize  well  with  the  general 
disposition  of  a  flower  garden.  It  is  therefore  desira- 
ble, particularly  when  considerable  refinement  is  aimed 
at,  that  a  separate  garden,  or  a  separate  section  of  the 
garden,  should  be  set  apart  for  their  culture.  The 
more  robust  or  less  valuable  varieties,  however,  which 
are  often  as  ornamental  as  the  most  esteemed,  may  be 
introduced  into -the  general  parterres.  We. shall  notice 
the  most  considerable,  in  the  order  in  which  they  na- 
turally attract  attention. 

The  Hyacinth^  Hyacinthus  orientalis,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  fragrant  of  the  spring  flowers,  is  a  native 
of  the  Levant,  where  it  occurs  abundantly,  in  form  not 
unlike  our  common  harebell.  It  has  long  been  a  favor- 
ite in  the  East ;  but  has  been  brought  to  its  present  ar- 
tificial perfection  in  Holland,  chiefly  since  the  beginning 
of  last  century.  Many  years  ago  it  was  successfully 
grown  in  the  vicinity  of  Edinburgh,  by  James  Justice, 
F.  R.  S.,  one  of  the  most  ingenious  horticulturists  of  his 
time ;  but  it  must  be  confessed  that,  in  the  culture  of 
this  flower,  the  British  florists  have  never  attained  to 
the  eminence  of  the  Dutch,  principally,  however,  as  is 
alleged  by  some,  from  want  of  attention  and  painstak- 
ing. According  to  Miller,  the  catalogues  of  the  Haar- 
lem florists  used  to  enumerate  200  sorts,  some  of  which 
sold  as  high  as  .£200  a  bulb ;  they  are  now  less  numer- 
ous, and  Etiuch  less  expensive. 

both  as  to  new  vavieties  and  superior  modes  of  culture  ;  and  it 
is  but  fair  to  add  that  the  work  hsts  been  greatly  improved  of 
late  years. 
24 


274  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Hyacinths  are  either  single,  semidouble,  or  double, 
and  exhibit  a  great  variety  of  tint.  In  a  fine  flower  the 
stalk  should  be  tall,  strong,  and  upright ;  the  blossoms 
numerous,  large,  and  suspended  in  a  horizontal  direc- 
tion ;  the  whole  flower  having  a  compact  pyramidal 
form,  with  the  uppermost  blossom  quite  erect ;  plain 
colors  should  be  clear  and  bright ;  and  strong<;olors  are 
preferable  to  pale ;  when  colors  are  mixed,  they  should 
blend  with  elegance. 

The  hyacinth  delights  m  a  rich  light  sandy  soil ;  and 
it  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  want  of  these  qualities  in  his 
composts  that  the  British  florist  fails  in  the  growth  of 
this  beautiful  plant.  The  Dutch  compost,  as  given  by 
the  late  Hon.  and  Rev.  Mr.  Herbert  in  the  London 
Sortie.  Transactions,  \o\.  iv.,  is  the  following:  One- 
third  coarse  sea  or  river  sand ;  one-third  rotten  cow- 
dung  without  litter  ;  and  one-third  leaf  mould.  The 
natural  soil  is  removed  to  the  depth  of  at  least  two  feet, 
and  the  vacant  space  filled  up  with  compost,  previously 
prepared  and  well  mixed.  These  materials  retain  their 
qualities  for  six  or  seven  years,  but  the  Dutch  do  not 
plant  hyacinths  upon  the  same  place  for  tw^o  years  suc- 
cessively. In  the  alternate  years  they  plant  it  with 
narcissus  or  crocus.  We  may  mention  that,  in  one  of 
the  finest  beds  of  hyacinths  ever  seen  in  Scotland,  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  soil  was  composed  of  sleech,  a 
sort  of  sandy  and  marly  deposition  from  the  ooze  on  the 
shores  of  the  Forth. 

According  to  Mr.  Main,  St.  Crispin's  day,  the  25th 
of  October,  is  the  best  to  plant  the  bulbs.  They  are 
generally  arranged  in  rows,  eight  inches  asunder,  there 
being  four  rows  in  each  bed ;  or,  if  more  convenient, 
they  may  be  placed  in  rows  across  the  bed.     The  bulbs 


HYACINTHS.  275- 

are  sunk  about  three  or  four  inches  deep, -and  it  is  re- 
commended to  put  a  small  quantity  of  clean  sand  below 
and  all  around  each.  As  the  roots  are  liable  to  be  in- 
jured by  frost,  it  is  usual  to  cover  the  beds  with  decayed 
tanners'  bark,  with  litter,  or  with  awnings.  The  first 
may  be  considered  the  neatest  during  winter,  but  an 
awning  is  nearly  indispensable  in  spring,  when  the  lin- 
gering colds  prove  exceeding  hurtful  to  the  young  flow- 
er-j^tems.  The  awning  may  be  made  of  coarse  sheeting 
or  duck.  As  the  flower-stems  appear,  they  are  tied  to 
little  rods  to  keep  them  upright  and  preserve  them  from 
accident.  In  order  to  perfect  the  colors,  the  rays  of  the 
sun  are  admitted  in  the  morning  or  in  the  evening,  but 
the  glare  of  mid-day  and  the  cold  of  night  are  both  ex- 
cluded. When  the  season  of  blossom  is  over,  the  awn- 
ing is  removed,  or  only  replaced  to  keep  off  heavy  rains. 
Much  of  the  success,  in  the  culture  of  this  flower,  de- 
pends on  the  subsequent  management  of  the  bulbs.  It 
is  the  practice  in  Holland,  about  a  month  after  the 
bloom,  or  when  the  tips  of  the  leaves  assume  a  withered 
appearance,  to  dig  up  the  roots,  and,  cutting  off  the 
stem  and  the  foliage  within  half  an  inch  of  the  bulb, 
but  leaving  the  fibres  untouched,  to  lay  the  bulbs  side^ 
ways  on  the  ground,  covering  them  with  half  an  inch  of 
dry  earth.  After  three  weeks,  they  are  again  taken  up, 
cleaned,  and  removed  to  the  store-room.  In  this  coun- 
try, it  is  more  common  to  allow  them  to  stand  till  the 
leaves  be  withered,  and  then  to  dig  them  up  at  once. 
In  the  store-room  the  roots  should  be  kept  dry,  well  air- 
ed, and  apart  from  each  other.        " 

Where  forcing  is  practiced,  a  few  hyacinths"  may  be 
forced  in  deep  flower-pots  filled  with  light  earth,  and, 
when  coming  into  flower,  transferred  to  the  green-house, 


276  FLOTVER  nARDEN. 

which  they  enliven  at  the  most  dead  season  of  the  year. 
In  chambers,  they  are  grown  in  water-glasses  made  for 
the  purpose ;  or,  with  still  greater  advantage,  in  boxes 
filled  with  damp  hypnum-moss. 

New  varieties  of  hyacinths  are  procured  by  sowing 
the  seed ;  but  this  is  a  tedious  process,  and  seldom  fol- 
lowed in  this  country.  The  established  sorts  are  pro- 
pagated by  offsets  or  small  bulbs,  which 'form  at  the 
base  of  the  parent  bulb.  Almost  all  the  hyacinths  cul- 
tivated in  this  country  are  imported  from  Holland,  and 
the  quantity  of  roots  annually  introduced  must  be  very 
great. 

The  Tulip^  Tulipa  Gesneriana,  is  a  native  of  the 
East,  whence  it  was  introduced  into  Europe  about  the- 
middle  of  the  sixteenth  century.  Gaudy  as  it  is,  it  has 
no  proper  corolla,  but  only  a  calyx  of  six  colored  sepals. 
About  the  year  1635,  the  culture  of  the  tulip  was  very 
engrossing  ;  and,  indeed,  the  rage  for  possessing  choice 
sorts  had  become  so  great  in  Holland  as  to  give  rise 
to  a  strange  species  of  gambling,  known  to  the  collec-' 
tors  of  literary  and  scientific-  anecdotes  by  the  name  of 
Tulipo-mania,  which  has  tended  to  bring  unmerited  dis- 
credit on  this  fine  flower.  At  present,  the  finer  tulips 
are  mostly  of  moderate  price,  and  though  not  to  be 
met  with  in  every  garden,  have  yet  some  zealous  culti- 
vators. 

•  There  are  some  varieties,  such  as  the  early  Due  Van 
Thol,  yellow,  white,  and  red ;  the  Clarimond,  the  Par- 
rots, and  the  Double  Tulips,  which  belong,  properly 
speaking,  to  the  general  cultivator.  The  genuine  tulip- 
grower  despises  these,  and  will^not  sufi'er  them  to  enter 
his  select  bed.  In  England,  the  florists'  tulips  are 
arranged  under  four  classes.     1.  The  Bizarres,  which 


THE  TULIP.  277 

have  a  yellow  ground  marked  with  purple  or  scarlet. 
2.  The  ^i/hloemens  with  a  white  ground,  marked  with 
violet  or  purple.  3.  The  Roses,  with  a  white  ground, 
marked  with  rose  or  cherry  color.  4.  The  Self  or 
Plain-coloured  tulips,  which  are  of  one  uniform  color, 
and  are  chiefly  valued  as  breeders.  The  bybloemen 
class  includes  most  of  those  tulips  which  are  held  in 
high  estimation  in  Britain ;  but  the  rose  or  cherry  colored 
are  perhaps  the  most  pleasing. 

The  properties  of  a  fine  late  tulip,  as  specified  by 
Mr.  Hogg,  are  the  following,  somewhat  abridged.  The 
stem  should  be  strong,  erect,  thirty  inches  high :  the 
flower  .large,  of  six  petals  (sepals),  which  should  pro- 
ceed almost  horizontally  at  first,  and,  turning  up,  should 
form  an  almost  perfect  cup,  with  a  round  bottom,  rather 
widest  at  top.  The  three  exterior  petals  should  be 
rather  larger  than  the  three  interior  ones :  the  limbs 
of  the  petals  should  be  rounded,  and  freed  from  every 
species  of  serrature.  The  ground  color  of  the  flower 
at  the  bottom  should  be  clear  white  or  clear  yellow ; 
and  the  various  rich  colored  stripes,  which  are  the 
principar  ornament  of  a  fine  tulip,  should  be  regular, 
bold,  and  distinct  at  the  margin,  and  terminate  in  fine 
broken  points,  elegantly  feathered  or  penciled.  There 
are  other  refinements  upon  which  florists  are  not  quite 
agreed :  and  it  must  be  confessed  that  their  standard 
of  excellence  .is-  somewhat  factitious  ;  for,  to  an  unin- 
structed  eye,  though  practiced  in  the  contemplation  of 
other  sorts  of  beauty,  a  tulip,  which  by  them  is  looked 
upon  as  worthless,  will  often  appear  as  fine  as  the 
choicest  variety  in  the  select  bed.  Fine  tulips  are  so 
numerous  that  it  is  scarcely  pos&ible  to  name  the  most 

24* 


278  FLOitVEH 'garden. 

desirable.     Among  the  bizarres,  the  King,  Polyphemus, 
and  Everard,  are  highly  prized. 

Tulips  prosper  in  a  prepared  compost  of  light  turfy 
soil,  richly  manured  with  well-rotted  cow-dung.  Twenty 
inches  depth  of  soil  should  be  removed,  and  the  vacant 
space  filled  up  with  compost.  Some  use  alternate 
layers  of  light  soil  and  cow-dung.  The  bed  should  be 
filled  up  with  compost  about  the  middle  of  October, 
and  in  a  fortnight,  when  the  soil  has  subsided,  the  bulbs 
are  planted  in  rows,  distant  seven  or  eight  inches,  and 
at  the  depth  of  about  three  inches.  A  little  clean  sand 
may  be  put  around  the  bulbs.  After  planting,  the  bed 
may  be  covered  over  with  tan,  as  in  the  case  of  hya- 
cinths. In  spring,  it  is  necessary  to  shield  the  leaves 
and  flower-stalks  from  frost,  and  also  from  heavy  rains; 
and  when  in  bloom,  the  flowers  should  be  sheltered 
from  the  sun's  rays,  by  which  they  are  speedily  injured. 
A  canvas  awning,  so  mounted  on  a  frame  that  it  can 
be  easily  withdrawn  and  replaced,  is  requisite  for  every 
fine  collection.  The  tulip  is  often  regarded  as  scent- 
less; but  this  is  a  mistake,  for  when  concentrated  under 
the  awning,  the  odor  is  very  perceptible.  After  the 
sepals  have  fallen,  the  seed-vessels  are  broken  ofi"  close 
by  the  stem,  to  prevent  the  plant  from  exhausting 
itself  in  perfecting  seed,  and  to  direct  its  energies  to 
the  forming  of  the  new  bulb.  When  the  leaves  have 
"withered,  the  bulbs  are  taken  up,  dried,  and  stored, 
until  the  j^lanting  season  come  round. 

Tulips  are  readily  propagated  by  offsets,  which  are 
taken  off  from  the  parent  bulbs,  and  nursed  in  separate 
beds  till  they  be  full  grown.  New  varieties  are  raised 
from  seed ;  they  are  from  five  to  seven  years  old  before 
they  flower^  and,  if  raised  from  promiscuous  seed,  they 


THE  RANUNCULUS.  279 

often  turn  out  worthless.  Early  in  the  eighteenth 
century,  the  distinguished  Scottish  cultivator,  Justice 
(already  mentioned  as  a  most  successful  cultivator  of 
hyacinths),  was  eminently  successful  in  raising  fine 
seedling  tulips ;  and  some  skillful  florists  of  our  own 
day,  such  as  Mr.  Oliver,  of  Edinburgh,  succeed  in  break- 
ing their  seedlings  into  colors  equal  to  the  choicest 
byblcemens  of  Holland.  They  save  the  seeds  from  the 
first-rate  sorts,  the  stigma  of  the  intended  parent  flower 
having  been  fertilized  with  the  pollen  of  some  other  ex- 
cellent variety.  Seedling  tulips,  it  may  be  remarked, 
present  this  anomaly  for  the  first  two  or  three  years, 
that  they  form  their  new  bulbs  several  inches  below  the 
old  ones,  so  that  an  inexperienced  cultivator  is  some- 
times apt  to  miss  them  at  the  time  of  lifting. 

The  Ranunculus  (R.  Asiaticus)  is,  like  many  other 
of  the  florists'  flowers,  a  native  of  the  Levant,  where  it 
is  a  favorite  of  the  Turks.  It  has  sported  into  innu- 
merable varieties,  and  those  now  in  cultivation  in  Eng- 
land are  mostly  of  British  origin.  The  plant  is  of 
small  stature,  furnished  with  decomposite  leaves,  and 
rising  from  a  root  formed  by  a  bundle  of  little  tubers. 

According  to  the  canons  of  floral  criticism,  the  pro- 
perties of  a  fine  double  ranunculus  are  the  following : 
The  stem  should  be  strong,  straight,  and  from  eight  to 
ten  inches  high,  supporting  a  large,  well-formed  blossom 
at  least  two  inches  in  diameter^  consisting  of  numerous 
petals,  the  largest  at  the  outside,  and  gradually  dimi- 
nishing in  size  as  they  approach  the  centre  of  the  flower, 
which  should  be  well  filled  up  with  them.  The  blossom- 
should  be  of  a  hemispherical  form  ;  its  component  petals 
imbricated,  neither  too  closely  nor  too  much  separated, 
and  having  rather  a  perpendicular  thjin  a  horizontal 


280  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

direction.  The  petals  should  be  broad,  and  have  per- 
fectly entire  well-rounded  edges ;  their  colors  should 
be  dark,  clear,  rich,  or  brilliant,  either  consisting  of 
one  color  throughout,  or  be  otherwise  variously  diver- 
sified on  an  ash,  white,  sulphur,  or^  fire-colored  ground, 
or  regularly  striped,  spotted,  or  mottled,  in  an  elegant 
manner. 

The  ranunculus  requires  a  stronger  and  moister  soil 
than  most  other  flowers.  Maddock  prefers  a  fresh, 
strong,  rich  loam.  Hogg  recommends  a  fresh  loam, 
with  a  considerable  portion  of  rotted  coW  or'horse-dung. 

The  Rev.-  Mr.  Williamson  {Hort.  Trans.,  yo\.  iv.) 
uses  a  stiff  clay  loam,  with  a  fourth  of  rottisn  dung. 
"  The  bed  should  be  dug  from  eighteen  inches  to  two 
feet  deep,  and  not  raised  more  than  four  inches  above 
the  level  of  the  walks,  to  preserve  the  moisture  more 
effectually  :  at  about  five  inches  below  the  surface  should 
be  placed  a  stratum  of  two-year-old  rotten  cow-dung, 
mixed  with  earth,  six  or  eight  inches  thick  ;  but  the 
earth  above  this  stratum,  where  the  roots  are  to  be 
placed,  should  be  perfectly  free  from  dung,  which  would 
prove  injurious  if  nearer.  The  fibres  will  draw  suffi- 
cient nourishment  at  the  depth  above  mentioned ;  but 
if  the  dung  were  placed  deeper,  it  would  not  receive  so 
much  advantage  from  the  action  of  the  air."  Other 
florists  have  recommended  to  put  the  manure  at  least 
two  feet  and  a  half  below  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
The  principal  object,  however,  is  to  maintain  through- 
out the  bed  a  genial  moisture  ;  and  this  is  to  be  done 
by  avoiding  all  hot  gravelly  earths,  and  particularly 
soils  that  are  apt  to  cake.  The  tubers  are  planted  late 
in  autumn,  or  early  in  spring,  in  rows  five  or  six  inches 
apart,  and  three  or  four  inches  separate  in  the  rows. 


THE  ANEMONE.  281 

They  should  be  so  close  that  the  foliage  shall  cover  the 
surface  of  the  bed,  for  in  this  way  a  salutary  degree  of 
shade  and  moisture  is  preserved.  The  autumn-planted 
roots  must  be  sheltered  from  frost  by  old  tan  or  hooped 
mattings.  When  in  flower,  the  plants  are  covered  Avith 
an  awning.  When  the  leaves  wither,  the  roots  are 
taken  up,  dried,  and  stored. 

Scarcely  any  florists'  flower  is  more  readily  propa- 
gated from  seed,  or  sooner  repays  the  care  of  the  culti- 
vator. The  seed  is  obtained  sparingly  from  semidouble 
sorts,  which  are  often  -  of  themselves  very  beautiful 
flowers.  It  is  generally  sown  in  boxes  in  autumn  or 
spring;  but  it  may  also  be  sown  with  success  in  the 
open  ground.  The  young  plants  flower,  often  in  the 
second,  and  always  in  the  third,  year. 

The  Anemone  of  the  flower  garden  includes  two  spe- 
cies. Anemone  coronaria,  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and 
A.  hortensis,  a  native  of  Italy.  These  have  long  shared 
the  attention  of  the  florist,  and  in  his  arrangements 
have  generally  been  associated  wjth  the  ranunculus,  re- 
sembling it  in  its  natural  affinities  and  mode  of  culture. 
The  single  and  semidouble  flowers  are  considered 
nearly  as  fine  as  the  double  ones.  The  sorts  are  nume- 
rous, but  at  present  are  seldom  distinguished  by  names. 
In  a  fine  double  anemone,  the  stem  should  be  strong, 
erect,  and  not  less  than  nine  inches  high.  The  flower 
should  be  at  least  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter, 
consisting;  of  an  exterior  row  of  lar^e  well-rounded 
petals,  in  the  form  of  a  broad  shallow  cup,  the  interior 
part  of  wdiich  should  contain  a  number  of  small  petals, 
mixed  with  stamens,  imbricating  each  other.  The 
colors  should  be  clear  and  distinct  when  diversified  in 
the   same  flower,  or  striking  and  brilliant  when  there 


282  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

is  onlj  one  tint.  Of  late  years,  anemones  remarkable 
for  the  magnitude  of  their  flowers  and  the  brilliancy  of 
their  hues  have  been  imported  from  Holland,  particu- 
larly by  Mr.  Lawson,  of  Edinburgh. 

The  soil  and  culture  are  -so  nearly  the  same  as  in  the 
ranunculus  that  it  is  needless  to  specify  them.  The 
plant  continues  longer  in  the  flower,  and  the  leaves  often 
remain  so  long  green  that  it  is  difficult  to  find  a  period 
of  inaction  in  which  to  take  up  the  roots.  It  has  been 
recommended  that,  as  soon  as  the  bloom  is  over,  the 
bed  should  be  screened  from  rain  by  mattings  until  the 
leaves  wither.  As  the  tuberous  roots  are  rather  brittle, 
they  require  considerable  care  in  handling.  Anemones 
are  easily  raised  from  the  seed.  A  bed  of  single  ane- 
mones, it  may  be  remarked,  is  a  valuable  addition  to 
a  flower  garden,  as  it  afi*ords,  in  a  warm  situation,  an 
abundance  of  handsome  and  often  brilliant  spring 
flowers,  almost  as  clearly  as  the  snow-drop  or  the  crocus. 

When  the  bloom  of  the  hyacinth,  tulip,' ranunculus, 
or  anemone,  is  over,  the  beds  should  be  filled  up  with 
small  showy  annuals,  which  will  soon  restore  their, gay 
aspect.  -  These  annuals  are  to  be  raised  on  a  hotbed, 
and  kept  in  it,  or  in  patches  in  a  piece  of  reserve 
ground,  till  wanted. 

The  Narcissus  is  an  extensive  genus,  including  a 
great  many  interesting  species  and  varieties.  It  be- 
longs, however,  rather  to  the  botanico-florist  than  to 
the  florist  proper ;  but,  as  it  contains  many  plants  of 
great  elegance,  it  ought  to  receive  more  general  atten- 
tion. The  Polyanthus  Narcissus  (N.  Tazetta)  afi'ords 
the  varieties  which  are  yearly  cultivated  by  florists, 
the  bulbs  of  which  are  yearly  imported  .in  quantities 
from  Holland.     These  prosper  in  a  light  soil,  contain- 


THE  IRIS.  283 

ing  a  little  well-rotted  dung.  The  roots  should  not  be 
stirred  more  frequently  than  once  in  three  years  ;  and 
this  remark  applies  also  to  Narcissus  Jonquilla  and 
odorus,  the  small  and  large  jonquil,  of  which  fragrant 
plants  there  should  be  beds  in  every  flower  garden. 
N.  Tazetta,  like  the  hyacinth,  may  also  be  grown  either 
in  pots  or  in  water-glasses. 

Iris. — The  species  which  peculiarly  appertain  to  the 
florist  are,  I.  Xiphium  and  Xiphioides,  of  both  of  which 
there  are  many  beautiful  varieties.  They  are  of  easy 
culture,  succeeding  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil,  and  re- 
quiring to  be  moved  only  once  in  three  or  four  years. 
The  roots  are  not  improved  by  being  kept  out  of  the 
ground ;  and  perhaps  the  best  method  is,  upon  taking 
them  up  and  freeing  them  from  their  shaggy  skins,  to 
replant  them  immediately. 

Besides  these,  may  be  mentioned  the  Persian  Iris 
(I.  Persica),  a  low  bulbous-rooted  plant,  with  delicate 
blue  or  violet-colored  flowers,  and  some  degree  of  fra- 
grance. It  is  extensively  cultivated  by  the  Dutch,  from 
whom  bulbs  are  annually  procured.  It  is  sometimes 
grown  in  water,  but  oftener  in  pots  of  nearly  pure  sand. 
When  planted  out,  it  requires  to  be  guarded  from  frosts 
and  heavy  rain.  The  Snake's-head  Iris  (I.  tuberosa)  is 
also  a  fragrant  species,  and  is  more  hardy  than  the  pre- 
ceding. Mr.  Denson,  who  has  been  very  successful  in 
the  culture  of  this  plant,  recommends,  in  G-ard.  Mag.^ 
vol.  viii.,  that  it  should  be  allowed  to  stand  two  or  three 
years  in  succession  on  the  same  spot:  when,  "in  July, 
take  it  up  and  divide  the  tubers,  planting  them,  soon 
as  dug  up,  six  inches  deep  in  a  compost  formed  of 
half-friable  mould,  or  old  hotbed  dung,  rotted  to  the 
consistence  of  soil.     Let  the  situation  be  a  dry  bed  or 


284  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

border,  at  the  base  of  a  wall  with  a  southern  aspect, 
and  plant  the  tubers  close  to  the  wall,  or  only  a  few 
inches  from  it."  The  Chalcedonian  Iris  (I.  susiana)  is 
the  most  magnificent  .species  of  the  genus,  and  is  well 
worth  the  labor  of  the  cultivator.  Its  stalk,  seldom 
a  foot  high,  is  surmounted  by  a  splendid  corolla,  the 
petals  of  which  are  nearly  as  broad  as  the  hand, 
and  are  of  purple  or  black  ground,  delicately  striped 
with'white.  It  prefers  a  loamy  soil  and  a  sunny  expo- 
sure, and  must  be  guarded  from  moisture  and  frosts  in 
winter.  For  these  three  species,  Mr.  Loudon  recom- 
mends the  protection  of  a  frame. 

There  are  many  other  species  which  are  worthy  of  a 
place  in  a  select  flower  garden,,  and,  when  well  grouped 
in  a  peaty  earth,  form  an  agreeable  appendage  to  a 
parterre.  Of  these,  we  may  mention  the  low-creeping 
I.  cristata  and  pumila,  the  more  aspiring  prismatica, 
flexuosa,  virginica,  sordida,  variegata,  and  Swertii,  the 
taller  Sibirica,  triflora,  and  ochroleuca,  the  broad- 
leaved  Florentina,  Germanica,  and  Sambucina,  and  the 
stately  pallida,  whicK  for  simple  elegance,  is  not  out- 
shone by  any  of  its  compeers.  This  beautiful  family 
was  zealously  cultivated  by  the  late  amiable  David  Fal- 
cohar,  Esq.,  of  Carlowrie,  who  introduced  same  of  its 
most  interesting  members  to  the  horticultural  world  in 
Scotland. 

The  Lily. — Of  the  genus  Lilium  there  are  many 
species,  some  of  which  have  not  been  exhibited  to  the 
extent  of  their  capabilities  in  the  flower  garden.  The 
old  white  Lily  (L.  candidum),  after  supplying  the  poets 
with  so  much  imagery,  has  retired  into  the  modest 
station  of  a  common  border-flower.  The  flaunting 
Orange-Lily  (L.  bulbiferum)  and  the  Turk's  Cap  (L, 


THE  DAHLIA,  OR  GEORGINA.  285 

Martagon),  may  occupy  the  same  place.  The  scarlet 
Martagon  (L.  Chalcedonicum)  is  worthy  of  more  care, 
as  being  more  beautiful  and  more  tender.  It  does  not 
relish  being  disturbed,  and  it  dislikes  peat.  On  the 
contrary,  the  splendid  Tiger  Lily  (L.  tigrinum),  which 
propagates  rapidly  by  auxiliary  bulbs,  succeeds  best  in 
peaty  soil.  The  same  remark  applies  to  the  rarer  L. 
canadense  and  superbum  (magnificent  species),  as  well 
as  to  L.  concolor,  Pennsylvanicum,  and  others,  which 
ought  to  be  more  common  in  our  gardens.  L.  Japoni- 
cum,  longiflorum,  and  lancifolium,  in  which  the  genus 
attains  its  greatest  magnificence,  unfortunately  require 
a  finer  climate  than  ours,  and  some  bulbs  of  these 
should,  therefore,  be  grown  in  pots  under  glass,  but 
others  may  be  risked  in  a  sheltered  border. 

The  GrladioU  or  corn-flags  are  extremely  ornamental. 
The  Cardinal  Lily  (Gladiolus  cardinalis)  well  deserves 
the  name  of  superb  :  when  seen  in  flower  in  masses,  the 
efi'ect  is  truly  brilliant.  In  order  to  success,  it  must  be 
grown  in  tufts,  and  the  tufts  should  be  left  undisturbed 
for  successive  years ;"  the  old  skins  of  the  decayed 
bulbs  permitting  the  wet  to  drain  away,  and  preventing 
the  earth  from  lying  close  and  heavy  on  the  new  bulbs," 
as  observed  by  the  late  eminent  Mr.  Herbert.  A  littk 
litter  of  any. sort  thrown  over  the  bed  aS'ords  sufficient 
protection  during  the  winter. 

Omitting  Crocus,  Fritillaria,  and  other  bulbous  ge- 
nera, which  are  sometimes  treated  as  florists*  flowers, 
we  proceed  to  one  of  the  prim-e  ornaments  of  the  au- 
tumnal flower  garden,  the  Dalilia,  or  Georgina,  as  it 
is  called  by  some  writers. 

The  Dahlia  (of  which  there  are  two  principal  species 
D.  variabilis  and  coccinea)  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  from 


286  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

which  it  was  introduced  in  1789,  but  afterwards  lost  by 
our  cultivators.  It  was  re-introduced  in  1804 ;  but  it 
was  not  till  ten  years  later  that  it  was  generally  known 
in  our  gardens.  The  first  plants  were  single,  of  a  pale 
purple  color,  and  though  interesting,  as  affording  a  new 
form  of  floral  ornament,  they  by  no  means  held  forth  a 
promise  of  the  infinite  diversity  of  tint  and  figure  ex- 
hibited by  their  double-flowered  successors.  At  present 
the  varieties  are  endless^  each  district  of  the  country 
possessing  suites  of  its  own,  and  cultivators  occasionally 
raising  at  one  sowing  a  dozen  of  kinds  which  they  think 
worthy  of  preservation.  The  results  have  been  most 
propitious  to  the  flower  garden,  from  which,  indeed,  the 
Dahlia  could  now  nearly  as  ill  be  spared,  as  the  potato 
from  the  kitchen  garden. 

The  varieties  of  Dahlia  may  be  classed  under  the  fol- 
lowing heads  :  1.  The  Qommoii  or  Oamellia  form,  under 
which  the  double  sorts  first  appeared.  This  is  by  far 
the  most  numerous  class,  and  perhaps  the  most  beauti- 
ful. The  dwarf  sorts  are  in  most  repute.  2.  The 
Anemone-flowered,  having  a  radius  of  large  petals,  and 
a  central  disk  of  smaller  ones,  somewhat  like  the  double 
anemone.  3.  G-lobeflotvered,  having  small  globular 
flowers,  which  are  extremely  double.  They  possess 
great  intensity  of  color,  and,  rising  for  the  most  part 
about  the  leaves,  make  generally  as  striking  an  appea^r- 
ance  as  those  of  a  more  massive  efflorescence. 

In  a  fine  Dahlia  the  flower  should  be  fully  double, 
always  filling  the  centre  ;  the  florets  should  be  entire  or 
nearly  so,  regular  in  their  disposition,  each  series  over- 
lapping the  other  backwards  :  they  may  be  either  plain 
or  quilled,  but  never  distorted :  if,  instead  of  being  re- 
flexed,  the  florets  are  recurved,  the  flower  will  be   more 


THE  DAHLTAj  OR  GEORGINA.  287 

syinmetrical.  The  peduncles  ought  to  be  strong  enough 
to  keep  the  blossoms  erect,  and  long  enough  to  show 
the  flowers  above  the  leaves.  Bright  and  deep  velvety 
colors  are  most  admired. 

Dahlia  competitions  now  excite  great  interest  in  the 
floricultural  world  ;  almost  every  considerable  town  hav- 
ing its  annual  show,  when  gold  and  silver  medals,  cups 
and  other  pieces  of  plate,  are  keenly  contended  for; 
private  amateurs  and  professional  cultivators  competing 
respectively  among  themselves.  Fine  flowers  have  be- 
come so  numerous  tha-fc  it  were  a  hopeless  task  to  off^er 
a  list.  Among  the  most  highly  prized  in  England  at 
the  present  day  may  only  be  mentioned  Springfield 
Rival,  Dodd's  Mary,  Neville's  Hope,  Duchess  of  Rich- 
mond, Essex  Rival,  Widnall's  Conductor,  Suffolk  Hero, 
Ruby,  Sussex  Rival,  Marquis  of  Lothian,  Fireball, 
Cox's  Yellow,  Ansell's  Unique,  Grace  Darling,  Climax, 
Hylas. 

New  varieties  are,  of  course,  procured  from  seed  ;  the 
utmost  attention  being  paid  to  the  parentage  and"  the 
crossing  of  flowers  of  diff'erent  colors.  If  sown  in  flow- 
er-pots, and  aided  by  a  little  heat,  the  seedlings,  speed- 
ily planted  out,  will  flower  the  first  season.  Establish- 
ed varieties  are  propagated  by  dividing  the  large  tuber- 
ous roots  ;  but,  in  doing  so,  care  must  be  taken  to  have 
an  eye  to  each  portion  of  tuber,  otherwise  it  will  not 
grow.  Sometimes  shoots  of  rare  varieties  are  grafted 
on  the  roots  of  others.  A  good  method,  now  generally 
practiced,  is  to  take  cuttings  close  from  the  roots  of  the 
plants,  as  soon  as  they  shoot  up  in  the  beginning  of  sum- 
mer, and  to  strike  them  in  sm^ll  flower-pots.  They 
strike  freely,  and  the  plants  generally  show  flower  dur- 
ing the  same  season. 


288  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Dahlias  succeed  best  in  an  open  situation,  and  in  rich 
loam;  but  there  is  scarcely  any  garden  soil  in  which 
they  will  not  thrive,  if  well  manured.  They  are,  how- 
ever, injured  by  being  repeatedly  planted  on  the  same 
spot.  They  may  stand  singly  like  common  border  flow- 
ers, but  have  the  most  imposing  appearance  when  seen 
in  masses  arranged  according  to  their  stature.  Old  roots 
often  throw  up  a  multitude  of  stems,  which  render  thin- 
ning necessary.  As  the  plants  increase  in  height,  they 
should  be  furnished  with  strong  stakes,  by  being  tied  to 
which  they  may  withstand  high  winds.  Dahlias  gene- 
rally continue  to  show  their  -flowers  till  they  be  inter- 
rupted by  frost  in  the  end  of  autumn.  The  roots  are 
then  taken  up,  dried,  and  stored  in  a  cellar,  or  some 
Qther  place  where  they  may- be  secured  from  frost  and 
moisture.  Early  in  the  spring,  the  tubers  of  the  finer 
varieties  are  placed  among  leaf-mould  on  a  hotbed,  or 
in  boxes  in  a  stove,  to  start  them,  as  the  gardeners 
speak.  When  thus  forwarded,  they  begin  to  flower  in 
July,  or  six  weeks  earlier  than  usual ;  and  cuttings 
taken  off"  from  such  started  tubers  in  April  are  sure  to 
form  flowering  plants  in  September. 

The  Auricula  (Primula  Auricula)  is  a  native  of  the 
Alps  and  the  Caucasus.  It  has  long  been  an  inmate  of 
our  gardens,  and  has  generally  been  a  favorite  with 
those  florists  whose  means  and  appliances  are  of  a  limit- 
ed kind.  Some  of  the  most  successful  cultivators  at 
present  are  among  the  operatives  in  the  vicinity  of  Man- 
chester and  Paisley. 

Besides  the  double  varieties,  which  have  never  been 
in  much  repute.  Auriculas  are  classed  under  two  divi- 
sions :  the  Selfs  or  plain-colored,  and  the  variegated,  or 
painted  sorts.     Professed  florists  confine  their  attention 


THE  AURICULA.  289 

to  tlie  latter  :  it  must,  however,  be  confessed,  that  their 
criteria  of  fine  flowers  are  often  arbitrary,  and  that,  al- 
though many  of  their  favorites  are  examples  of  un- 
doubted beauty,  the  eye  of  the  unitiated  would  gene- 
rally prefer  the  simpler  hues  of  the  self-colored  flowers. 
The  auricula,  though  now  almost  wholly  an  artificial 
plant,  and  strangely  transformed  from  its  original  ap- 
pearance, still  inclines  to  a  moist  soil  and  shady  situa- 
tion. The  florists'  varieties  are  grown  in  rich  composts, 
for  the  preparation  of  which  numberless  receipts  have 
been  given.  We  quote  that  of  Mr.  Hogg,  of  Padding- 
ton,  an  experienced  grower  :  "  One  barrow  of  rich  yel- 
low loam,  or  fresh  earth  from  some  meadow,  or  pasture- 
land,  or  common,  with  the  turf  well  rotted;  one  barrow- 
load  of  leaf-mould,  another  of  cow-dung,  two  years  old 
at  least;  and  one  peck  of  river,  not  &ea  sand.  For 
strong  plants  intended  for  exhibition,  add  to  the  same 
composition,  as  a  stimulant,  a  barrowful  of  well-decayed 
night-soil,  with  the  application  of  a  liquid  manure  be- 
fore the  top-dressing  in  February,  and  twice  more,  but 
not  oftener,  in  March.  A  portion  of  light,  sandy,  peat- 
earth  may  be  added,  as  a  safe  and  useful  ingredient, 
particularly  for  plants  kept  in  low  damp  situations." 

Auriculas  may  be  propagated  from  seed.  It  is  to  be 
sown  in  January  or  February  in  boxes,  which  are  kept 
under  cover,  and  exposed  only  to  the  rays  of  the  morn- 
ing sun.  When  s^ed  has  been'saved  from  the  finer  sorts, 
the  operation  is  one  of  considera^ble  nicety,  as  it  not  un- 
frequcntly  happens  that  the  best  seedlings  are  at  first 
exceedingly  weak.  The  judicious  grower  never  neglects 
these,  but  rather  nourishes  them  with  double  care. 
They  generally  flower  in  the  second  or  third  year ;  and 
the  florist  is  fortunate  who   obtains  three  or  four  good 

25* 


290  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

sorts  out  of  a  large  sowing.  The  established  varieties 
are  increased  by  dividing  the  roots,  an  operation  which 
is  performed  in  July  or  in  .the  beginning  of  A'ugust. 

Eine  auriculas  are  grown  in  pots  about  five  or  six 
inches  in  diameter  ;  the  longer  or  deeper,  so  much  the 
better.  These  are  kept  in  frames,  or  stages,  constructed 
for  the  purpose.  For  winter,  perhaps,  there  is  no- 
thing better  than  a  common  hotbed  frame,  a^  this  ad- 
mits of  an  exact  adjustment  of  air  and  temperature, 
things  to  which  attention  is  absolutely  necessary,  as 
the  plants  approach  the  flowering  season  in  the  end  of 
March.  After  the  bloom  is  over,  or  in  the  beginning 
of  June,  the  pots  may  be  placed  on  stages  slightly  ele- 
vated, and  facing  the  north.  Though  not  absolutely 
necessary,  it  is  useful  to  have  the  power  of  sheltering 
them  from  long-continued  rains.  It  is  usual  every 
year  to  shift  the  plants,  shortening  the  roots  and  giving 
them  a  large  portion  of  new  soil,  soon  after  the  flowers 
have  decayed.  For  more  detailed  information  on  this 
subject,  we  may  refer  to  the  well-known  treatises  of 
Maddock  and  Hoo-o;. 

The  Polyanthus  is  supposed  to  be  a  seminal  variety 
of  Primula  vulgaris ;  and  is  much  cultivated  by  some 
florists.  Like  the  auricula  it  has  sported  into  many 
hundred  varieties.  It  is  not  necessary  to  give  a  detailed 
account  of  its  culture,  as  it  scarcely  differs  from  that 
of  the  auricula.  The  polyanthus,  however,  is  the  har- 
dier of  the  two,  and  seldom  perishes  from  cold.  It 
may  be  mentioned  that  there  are  several  beautiful 
double  varieties  -of  the  common  Primrose,  both  white 
and  dark  purple,  which  are  deserving  of  a  place  in 
every  garden. 

The  whole  gmvi^  Primula  merits   the  attention  of 


THE  CARNATION.  291 

the  curious  cultivator.  P.  helvetica  and  nivalis  adorn 
the  flower  borders  in  spring  with  their  abundant  trusses 
of  blossom.  P.  marginata,  when  planted  in  a  shady 
situation,  is  equally  lavish  of  its  pale  and  delicately 
beautiful  flowers.  P.  viscosa  and  integrifolia,  with  their 
intense  colors,  are  the  ornaments  af  the  alpine  frame ; 
or,  with  P.  longifolia,  farinosa,  and  Scotica,  may  be 
plunged  into  the  margin  of  the  American  border.  A 
supply,  however,  should  be  kept  in  pots.  Besides  these, 
w^e  might  name  P.  cortusoides,  Pallasii,  Pajinuri,  and 
others.  The .  curious  P.  verticillata,  and  the  splendid 
P.  sinensis,  are  inmates  of  the  green-house.  Of  this 
last  there  is  a  white  variety,  and  also  a  double-flowered 
variety.     The  florist  of  simple  taste  will  love  them  all. 

Tho  Carnation  (Dianthus  caryophyllus)  has  long, 
been  a  favorite  flower,  not  only  for  the  beauty  but  for 
the  delightful  fragrance  of  its  blossoms.  It  is  a  native 
of  Germany,  and  it  is  occasionally  found  in  an  appa- 
rently wild  state  in  England.  The  cultivation  of  it, 
however,  is  by  no  means  easy,  but  calls  forth  all  the 
resources  of  the. florist.  The  varieties,  which  are  very 
numerous,  have  been  arranged  under  three  heads : 
Flakes^  having  two  colors,  with  their  stripes  running 
quite  through  and  along  the  petals  ;  Bizarres,  irregu- 
larly spotted,  and  striped  with  not  fewer  than  three 
colors ;  Picotees,  spotted,  with  serrated  or  fringed  pe- 
tals. Mr.  Hogg,  who, has  written  a  treatise  expressly 
on  this  flower,  has  given  u  catalogue  of  nearly  350 
sorts. 

Carnations  are  propagated  by  layers  or  pipings  :  the 
former  method  is  most  practiced,  but  with  some  sorts 
piping,  it  is  said,  should  be  preferred.  Layering  is  per- 
formed when  the  phmt  is  in  full  bloom.     Proper  shoots 


292  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

are  selected;  a  few  of  the  lower  leaves  are  then  removed; 
an  incision  is  made  a  little  below  a  suitable  joint,  pass- 
ing up  to  the  joint,  but  not  through  it;  the  shoot  is  then 
pegged  down  and  covered  with  some  fresh  soil,  the  tip 
being  left  above  ground.  Layers  are  generally  found 
to  be  rooted  in  about  a  month  after  the  operation  has 
been  performed.  Pipings  are  little  cuttings,  separated 
at  a  joint,  and  planted  thickly  under  bell-glasses  on  a 
slight  hotbed.  They  require  great  attention,  and  are 
precarious  in  their  success,  but  form  excellent  plants. 

Numerous-directions  have  been  given  respecting  com- 
posts for  carnations.  We  abridge  those  of  Hogg,  who 
is  the  principal  authority  in  this  matter.  Take  three 
barrows  of  loam,  one  and  a  half  of  garden-mould,  two 
of  horse-dung,  and  one  of  coarse  sand  ;  let  these  be  mix- 
ed, and  thrown  into  a  heap,  and  turned  over  two  or 
three  times  in  the  winter,  particularly  in  frosty  weather. 
Towg^rds  the  end  of  November  a  barrow-load  of  lime  is 
added  while  hot,  to  aid  in  the  decomposition  of  the  soil, 
and  destroy  worms.  For  the  varieties  which  are  liable 
to  sport,  he  recommends  a  poorer  compost. 

The  more  robust  carnations  are  planted  out  in  beds 
or  singly  in  the  flower  garden ;  but  the  finer  and  more 
tender  sorts  are  grown  in  pots  of  about  a.  foot  in  diame- 
ter. The  time  of  potting  is  about  the  end  of  March. 
When  the  flower-stems  show  themselves,  they  are  fur- 
nished with  rods,  to  which  they  are  tied  as  they  length- 
en, to  prevent  their  being  broken  by  the  wind  or  other 
accident.  When  the  j)lants  begin  to  expand  their  blos- 
soms, they  are  removed  to  a  stage  calculated  to  exhibit 
their  beauties.  Some  florists  place  ligatures  around  the 
flower-buds,  in  order  to  prevent  irregular  bursting,  and 


THE  PINK.  293 

even  arrange  the  petals,  by  removing  distortions  with 
fine-pointed  scissors. 

New  varieties  are  raised  from  seed.  The  seed  of  the 
hardier  double  or  semidouble  sorts  often  affords  a  very 
beautiful  bed  of  flowers,  and  should  not  be  neglected  by 
those  who  have  the  command  of  extensive  flower  gar- 
dens. 

The  Pink  is  considered  by  botanists  as  merely  a  va- 
riety of  the  preceding.  It  is,  however,  very  distinct  in 
its  character  and  constant  in  its  habits.  It  is  one  of 
the  mechanics'  flowers,  and  is  cultivated  most  exten- 
sively in  the  neighborhood  of  some  of  the  manufactur- 
ing towns.  Its  simple  elegance  does  credit  to  the  taste 
of  those  who  select  it  for  their  favorite ;  and  it  deserves 
a  place  in  the  garden  of  the  highest  as  well  as  the  lowest 
in  the  land.  Pinks  are  numerous,  the  growers  at  Pais- 
ley enumerating  about  three  hundred  varieties.  Those 
are  preferred  which  have  the  limb  of  the  petals  nearly 
entire,  and  are  well  marked  in  the  centre  with  bright 
crimson  or  dark  purple. 

Pinks  are  mostly  propagated  by  pipings  in  slight  hot- 
beds or  under  hand-glasses ;  and  when  proper  attention 
is  given  to  the  due  admission  of  air,  they  generally  suc- 
ceed. Occasionally  rare  sorts,  which  are  scantily  fur- 
nished with  grass,  are  propagated  by  layers.  This 
flower  does  not  require  such  elaborate  composts  as  some 
others,  but  it  likes  fresh  light  soils,  well  manured  with 
decayed  cow-dung.  ■  Not  more  than  two  years  of  blooms 
should  be  taken  from  the  same  bed,  and  it  is  the  prxic- 
tice  of  most  florists  to  have  a  new  bed  every  year.  The 
flower-stalks  are  supported  i)y  small  sticks.  As  in  the 
carnation,  ligatures  of  bast-matting,  or  collars  of  card, 
are  sometimes  applied  to  the  calyces  of  the  flowers:  but 


294  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

this  practice,  however  it  may  be  followed  by  those  who 
judge  according  to  the  technical  "  criteria  of  a  fine 
flower,"  will  scarcely  be  adopted  by  any  who  have  an 
eye  for  natural  beauty. 

Sweet  Violets,  including  varieties  of  Viola  odorata 
and  the  Neapolitan  and  Russian  violets,  are  very  de- 
sirable ornaments  in  the  spring  months :  and  the  fra- 
grance of  their  flowers  is  delightful  when  strewed  on 
any  kind  of  server  in  the  boudoir.  To  have  them  in 
perfection,  a  new  plantation  should  be  made  every  year 
as  soon  as  they  are  done  flowering,  generally  towards 
the  middle  or  end  of  May,  preferring  damp  or  cloudy 
weather  for  the  operation. 

The  genus  Lobelia  may  now  be  regarded  as  affording 
a  group  of  florists'  flowers.  The  leading  species  are 
L.  cardinalisj.fulgens,  splendens,  and  syphilitica;  but 
there  are  several  hybrids  of  merit.  The  cardinal  flower, 
of  a  fine  scarlet  color,  has  long  been  a  valued  plant. 
It  is  propagated  either  by  seed  or  by  offsets.  L.  ful- 
gens,  of  a  rich  crimson,  is  a  still  more  showy  species, 
forming  a  magnificent  plant.  A  Lobelia  bed,  consisting 
of  these  species  and  of  their  hybrid  offspring,  haying, 
perhaps  some  of  the  procumbent  species  on  the  outside 
by  way  of  edging,  is  calculated  to  produce  a  beautiful 
effect  in  the  flower  garden,  continuing  in  bloom  the 
whole  season.  Most  of  the  kinds  afford  offsets  readily; 
if  these  be  taken  off  and  potted  in  autumn,  in  a  light 
sandy  soil,  they  may  be  kept  in  a  cool  frame  over  win- 
ter; or  the  entire  old  plants  may  be  put  into  large  pots, 
and  kept  in  the  same  way,  the  offsets  being  removed  in 
the  spring  and  forming  excellent  plants. 

It  would  lead  us  too  much  into  detail  to  speak  mi- 
nutely  of   Calceolaria,    Phlox,    Chelone,    Pentstemon, 


CHINESE  ^CHRYSANTHEMUM.  295 

(Enotk&YSi,  and  other  genera,  which  approach  the  cha- 
racter of  florists'  flowers.  To  have  them  in  perfection, 
thej  should  be  kept  in  beds  by  themselves  ;  and  we  are 
persuaded  that,  were  a  moiety  of  the  care  bestowed  upon 
them  which  is  lavished  on  florists'  flowers  properly  so 
called,  they  would  amply  repay  the  labor  of  the  culti- 
vator. 

The  Chinese  Chrysanthemum  (Chrysanthemum  si- 
nense),  from  the  peculiar  culture  wbich  it  now  under- 
goes, may  be  considered  to  belong  to  this  department  of 
flowers.  It  is  a  native  of  China,  and  though  introduced 
many  years  ago,  its  ornamental  capabilities  have  only 
recently  been  brought  into  notice.  Flowering  in  No- 
vember and  December,  it  fills  up,  with  its  many-colored 
blossoms,  the  blank  of  a  most  dreary  season,  and  afi^ords 
the  means  of  decorating  green-houses,  conservatories, 
and  dwelling-houses,  when  almost  all  other  means  of 
embellishment  fail.  Forty  varieties  were  enumerated 
by  the  late  Mr  Sabine,  in  the  London  Horticultural 
3Ie7noirs;  but  it  is  believed  that  there  are  several  others 
not  yet  introduced,  flowers  of  which  are  represented  on 
Chinese  painted  screens,  in  a  stifi",  but  rigidly  correct 
style,  and  which  we  may  soon  expect  to  receive  from 
China.  The  Chrysanthemum  is  hardy  enough  to  live 
in  the  open  air,  but  it  requires  the  shelter  of  a  wall, 
and,  from  the  lateness  of  its  flowering,  it  is  only  the 
early  varieties  that  even  in  fine  seasons  are  enabled  to 
unfold  their  blossoms  against  a  south  wall  in  our  open 
borders.  It  is  seen  in  its  beauty  only  when  grown  in 
pots  and  under  glass.  Yearly  plants  are  preferred. 
In  the  beginning  of  April,  cuttings  of  the  last  year's 
shoots,  about  three  inches  long,  are  put  singly  into 
small  pots,  filled  with  soil  composed  of  one-half  bog- 


296  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

earth  or  leaf-mould,  and  one-half  pure  sand.  Their 
growth  is  expedited  at  first  by  gentle  heat.  In  about  a 
month  they  are  found  to  be  rooted,  and  are  placed  in 
a  cold  frame,  in  which  they  are  kept  till  the  beginning 
of  June,  when  they  are  put  into  larger  pots,  and  set  out 
in  some  airy  situation.  About  this  time,  the  tops  of  the 
plants  are  pinched  off  to  make  them  bushy,  but  no  more 
side  shoots  are  allowed  to  remain  for  flowering  than  the 
plants  are  likely  to  be  able  to  support  without  a  stake. 
In  August,  they  are  again  shifted  into  larger  pots,  filled 
with  strong  rich  soil.  During  the  whole  season,  the 
pots  are  frequently  moved  to  prevent  the  roots  from 
striking  through,  and  they  are  never  plunged.  Mr. 
Munro,  of  the  London  Horticultural  Garden,  whose  me- 
thod of  culture  we -have  been  describing,  recommends 
liquid  manure  to  be  applied  from  time  to  time  in  sum- 
mer and  autumn.  Other  cultivators,  in  order  to  have  a 
greater  succession  of  flowers,  and  a- variety  in  the  sta- 
ture of  the  plants,  strike  cuttings  at  two  seasons,  in 
March  and  in  May,  and  likewise  propagated  by  layers 
in  August.  In  the  beginning  of  winter  the  plants  are 
placed  in  a  cold  frame  or  vinery,  and  they  are  brought 
into  a  milder  temperature  as  they  are  wanted.  To  pro- 
duce large  showy  plants,  a  few  of  the  chrysanthemums 
of  the  former  year  may  be  selected,  and  being  freed 
fron  suckers,  and  having  the  mould  shaken  from  their 
roots,  may  be  repotted  and  shifted  repeatedly  during 
the  summer  and  autumn. 


BOTANICAL  STRUCTURES. 

Glazed  houses  for  the  reception  and  culture  of  exotic 
plants,  though   sometimes   placed   in   connection   with 


BOTANICAL  STRUCTURES. 


297 


similar  structures  in  the  forcing  department,  are  now 
almost  universally  regarded  as  appendages  of  the  flower 
garden.  In  the  hands  of  architects  they  have  assumed 
a  great  variety  of  forms,  and  too  often  has  practical 
utility  been  sacrificed  to  architectural  taste.  We  shall 
confine  ourselves  to  the  exhibition  of  the  principle  of 
the  most  important  of  these,  and  shall  limit  our  remarks 
to  the  Green-house,  Conservatory,  and  the  Stove. 

The  Green-house  is  intended  to  aff'ord  a  winter  and 
partly  a  summer  shelter  to  the  less  tender  classes  of 
exotic  plants  grown  in  pots.     The  annexed  wood-cut  ex- 

Fii?.  17. 


hibits  the  old-fashioned  lean-io  green-house.  The  gene- 
ral form  of  the  house  is  that  of  a  vinery,  with  pretty 
lofty  front  glass.  The  main  part  of  the  area  is  occu- 
pied by  a  stage  rising  in  steps  to  receive  the  potted 
plants.  At  some  height  above  the  front  flue  is  placed 
a  narrow  horizontal  bench  of  trellis-work,  to  receive 
posts  containing  small  plants  which  require  to  be  near 
the  light.  In  England,  since  the  repeal  of  the  duty  on 
slate,  this  material  has  been  in  many  cases  advantageous- 
ly employed  in  forming  the  pavement,  the  shelving,  and 
26 


298 


FLOWER  GARDEN. 


stages  of  plant-houses.  The  interior  air  is  warmed  hy  one 
or  two  flues,  or  other  heating  apparatus,  according  to  its 
volume.  If  a  temperature  of  45°  Fahr.  be  maintained 
during  winter,  it  is  sufficient.  Sometimes  green-houses 
are  constructed  with  span-roofs  and  a  double  stage;  but 
they  have  a  very  plain  appearance,  especially  those  which 
are  commonly  erected  in  nursery  gardens.  They  might 
be  made  much  more  ornamental,  with  little  loss  of  light, 
as  in  the  accompanying  figure  (Fig.  18),  which  is  design- 
ed for  the  south  end  of  one  of  these  span-roofed  houses. 

Fi-    18. 


The  plants  have  thus  an  east  and  west  aspect,  or  enjoy 
the  morning  and  afternoon  sun.     Such  houses  may  in- 


BOTANICAL  STRUCTURES. 


299 


deed  assume  any  form  ^YhIch  taste  can  suggest,  provided 
there  be  a  sufficiency  of  light,  and  the  plants  be  not  teo 
far  from  the  glass.  The  Jieath-house  does  not  essen- 
tially diifer  from  the  green-house ;  but  for  it  a  span- 
roof  is  decidedly  preferable,  and  provision  should  be 
made  for  the  most  thorough  ventilation. 

In  the  Oonservatori/,  the  chief  plants  grow  in  beds  of 
earth  sunk  in  the  floor.  The  following  figure  shows 
the  principle  of  this  species  of  house.     The  beds,  marked 

Fig.  19. 


h  5,  are"  filled  with  a  light  soil,  calculated  for  the  plants 
which  are  to  inhabit  them.     This  figure  represents  the 


Fis.  20. 


front  elevation  of  the  roof.  Numerous  varieties  of  this 
structure  also  Imve  appeared,  and  some  most  siimptuous 
examples  have  been  erected  in  the  gardens  of  the 
opulent.  With  similar  restrictions  as  in  the  green- 
house, the  conservatory  may  bo  said  to  be  capable  of 
assuming  any  form.  Ornamental  climbing  plants  are 
generally  trained  under  the  rafters,  with  a  fine  effect ; 


300  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

such  as  Passiflora  kermisina,  Doliclios  llgnosus,  Ipo- 
mcea  coccinea,  Michauxii,  Horsfallige,  and  rubrocoe- 
rulea. 

The  Plant-Stove  may  either  be  a  dry-stove  or  a  hark- 
stove,  or  both  combined;  and  is  applied  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  tropical  plants  which  require  an  elevated  tem- 
perature. The  dry-stove  may  be  considered  as  a  green- 
house, having  a  larger  than  usual  apparatus  for  the 
production  of  heat.  The  bark-stove  is  furnished  some- 
what in  the  manner  of  a  pinery,  with  a  receptacle  to 
contain  a  bed  of  fermenting  tanners'  bark,  into  which 
the  pots  are  plunged.  In  this  country,  stoves  are  re- 
garded as  belonging  rather  to  the  botanic  than  to  the 
flower  garden :  they  are  extremely  useful,  however,  in 
the  latter  ;  for,  besides  presenting  the  florist  with  many 
unusual  forms  of  vegetation,  they  afi*ord  in  summer  a 
variety  of  beautiful  plants,  which,  as  they  come  into 
bloom,  maybe  Introduced  into  the  cooler  green-house  or 
conservatory,  and  remain  there  till  the  flowering  season 
be  over. 

Sometimes  the  various  botanical  structures  are  com- 
bined into  one  imposing  assemblage,  as  that  exhibited 
in  Fig.  21 ;  a  being  a  palm-house,  b  for  New  Hol- 
land plants  ;  c  large  green-house,  and  the  intermediate 
spaces  being  occupied  by  dry-stove,  heath-house,  and 
green-houses.  This  mode  is,  of  course,  suited  only 
for  places  of  the  first  order,  where  splendor  is  an  ob- 
ject, where  everything  is  on  a  great  scale,  and  expense 
little  regarded.  In  a  vast  proportion  of  cases  economy 
must  be  studied  ;  and  in  villa  gardens  the  ornamental 
plant-house  is  very  often  attached  to  the  library  or  the 
drawing-room,  or  has  a  covered  communication  from 
these  apartments.    A  good  plan  for  such  a  glazed  house 


BOTANICAL  "STRUCTURES. 


301 


':-.,m^i 


302  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

may  be  found  in   the  Gardenerh  Magazine  vol.  vi., 
p.  664. 

Cfi'een-house  |;?a/i^s. — This  beautiful  class  of  plants 
has  become  so  numerous  that  in  a  sketch  like  the  pre- 
sent it  is  impossible  to  give  the  names  of  even  a  limited 
selection.  We  may  once  more  refer  to  Mr.  Loudon's 
tables  in  his  Encyclopsedia  of  Horticulture^  or  to  his  still 
more  copious  lists  in  the  Hortus  Britannicus,  from  both 
of  which  works  much  valuable  information  on  the  sub- 
ject may  be  obtained.  The  recent  increase  of  species 
makes  the  task  of  selection  at  once  more  necessary  and 
more  difficult ;  and  it  is  one  which,  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, is  often  negligently  performed.  Many  of  the 
finer  sorts  of  woody  plants  are  not  propagated  without 
difficulty,  and,  consequently,  being  high-priced  in  the 
nurseries,  are  found  in  requisite  abundance  only  where 
there  is  great  liberality  on  the  part  of  the  proprietor. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  species  which  strike  easily  are 
circulated  by  gardeners  themselves,  many  of  whom,  by 
their  own  interest  and  resources,  more  than  half  fill 
their  green-houses  without  calling  for  the  pecuniary  aid 
of  J;heir  employers.  To  this  cause  may  be  ascribed  the 
perpetuation  of  many  mean-looking  plants,  which,  if 
hardy,  would  scarcely  be  tolerated  in  well-kept  shrub- 
beries, and  certainly  ought  not  to  encumber  the  green- 
house. 

Light  mould  produced  by  the  rotting  of  turf  taken 
from  pastures,  and  mixed  with  sand,  if  necessary,  or 
enriched  by  the  addition  of  leaf-mould,  is  well  adapted 
for  most  gjeen-house  plants.  Some  require  a  mixture 
of  peat-earth ;  others  thrive  only  in  pure  sandy  peat. 
If  more  specific  directions  be  wished,  we  would  recom- 
mend the  reader  to  have  recourse  to   Cashing' s  Exotic 


BOTANICAL  STEUCTURES.  303 

Cfar^ener,  or  to  the  more  recent  work  by  the  late  Mr- 
Sweet,  entitled  The  Botanical  Cultivator.  The  common 
means  of  propagation  is  by  cuttings,  inserted  in  earth 
or  sand,  and  covered,  if  necessary,  with  bell-glasses. 
A  few  sorts  are  increased  by  grafting  or  layering. 
Nearly  all  may  be  raised  from  seed,  large  quantities 
of  which  are  annually  imported  from  abroad.  It  may 
be  added  many  green-house  plants  ripen  their  seed  in 
this  country,  and  the  collectiDg  of  such  seeds  is  too 
often  neglected. 

Many  of  these  plants  require  shifting  and  fresh  earth 
twice  a  year  ;  all  of  them  should  be  repotted  once  a  year 
at  least.  It  is  the  common  practice  to  examine  their 
roots  in  spring  or  the  early  part  of  summer,  and  re- 
moving the  matted  fibres,  to  put  them  into  larger  pots 
if  necessary.  As  room  is  extremely  valuable  in  limited 
green-houses,  it  is  desirable  that  the  plants  should  be 
kept  of  a  moderate  size;  and  they  are,  therefore,  rather 
to  be  under- potted  than  otherwise.  Many  of  the  free- 
growing  plants  require  to  be  shifted  again  in  August, 
at  which  period  of  the  year  it  is  considered  preferable 
to  repot  those  which  need  to  be  disturbed  only  once 
a  year.  During  the  summer  months,  a  great  proportion 
of  the  inmates  of  the  green-house  are  placed  in  the  open 
air,  on  a  spot  paved  with  flagstones,  or  laid  with  coal- 
ashes,  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  earth-worms  into  the 
pots,  and  the  spot  selected  should  be  well  sheltered 
from  high  winds.  Meanwhile,  their  place  in  the  green- 
house maybe  occupied  by  balsams  and  other  tender 
annuals  of  a  showy  character.  On  the  approach  of 
winter,  the  plants  are  again  placed  under  cover.  All 
that  is  necessary  in  the  management  of  the  green-house 
in  winter  is  to  keep  up  a  steady  but^  very  moderate 


804  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

temperature,  to  preclude  the  evil  effects  of  damp  by 
regular  airing  in  mild,  dry  weather,  and  to  attend  to 
slight  AYatering  where  it  may  be  needed. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  many  species  of  green- 
house plants  flourish  mutih  more  luxuriantly,  and  make 
a  finer  appearance  when  in  flower,  if  planted  in  the 
open  border  during  the  summer  months.  Cultivators 
should  therefore  diligently  propagate  such  plants  by 
cuttings  in  pots  placed  in  hotbeds  in  early  spring,  so 
as  to  have  a  store  for  planting  out  in  June. 

Of  late  years,  particular  genera  of  plants  have  come 
greatly  into  vogue,  and  it  would  be  an  omission  not 
to  notice  some  of  them.  Among  the  foremost  may  be 
mentioned  Pelargonium^  with  its  affinities.  The  Pelar- 
goniums are  of  ^asy  culture,  being  propagated  readily 
by  cuttings,  and  requiring  only  to  be  shifted  from  time 
to  time.  Young  plants  are  very  liable  to  be  attacked 
by  the  aphidion  or  green-fly.  The  most  effectual  cure 
is  tobacco-water  (as  procured  from  manufacturers  of 
tobacco,  not  a  mere  infusion  of  tobacco).  If  the  plant 
be  small,  it  may  be  dipped  into  the  liquid  for  a  minute 
or  two,  not  only  with  impunity,  but  with  great  advan-. 
tage,  the  insects  being  thus  killed.  Equal  to  these,- in 
point  of  beauty  of  color,  and  certainly  superior  in 
elegance  of  form,  is  the  family  of  Cape  heaths,  or 
Ericce.  Of  this  genus  there  are  said  to  be  600  species, 
considerably  more  thanth^  half  of  which  exist  in  our 
collections.  Many  heaths  may  be  raised  from  seed, 
which  occasionally  ripens  in  this  country:  the  most 
common  mode  of  propagation,  however,  is  by  cuttings, 
and  this  in  same,  species  is  attended  with  difliculty. 
'Y^rj  small  cuttings  are  .  stuck  into  the  purest  white 
sand,  and  closely  covered  with  bell-glasses.    The  Erioee 


THE  CAMELLIA.  305 

require  a  peaty  and  sandy  soil,  and  great  attention- in 
"watering  and  giving  plenty  of  air.  To  liave  them  in 
perfection,  a  separate  house  is  indispensable.  The 
heath-house  should  be  very  well  lighted,  easily  and 
thoroughly  ventilated,  and  so  planned  that  the  plants 
may  be  near  the  glass;  at  the  same  time  provision 
should  be  made,  by  mean-s  of  rollers  of  thin  canvas,  to 
protect  the  plants  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  Sum- 
mer sun,  which  are  apt  to  induce  mildew.  For  further 
information,  we  may  refer  to  the  excellent  little  treatise 
of  Mr.  M'Nab,  of  the  Botanic  Garden,  Edinburgh,  whose 
success  in  this  department  is  quite  unrivaled,  and  in 
whose  hands  Cape  heaths  attain  a  splendor  which,  we 
believe,  they  never  reach  in  the  environs  of  Table 
Mountain  itself.  The  Epacridoe  are  a  lovely  tribe  from 
New  Holland,  which  should  be  cultivated  along  with 
the  Cape  heaths ;  particularly  Epacris  impressa,  nivalis, 
variabilis,  and  campanulata. 

List  of  free-hlooyning  Hardy  Heaths,  in  their  order  of 
flowering  from  January  to  December. _  [Communi- 
cated hy.  Mr.  J.  3IcN'ah.) 

Erica  herbacea.  Erica  Mackayana. 

carnea.  ramulosa, 

mediterranea  hybernica. ciliaris. 

intermedia. stricta. 

stricta.  Calluna  vulgaris,  white,  pink, 


nana.  red,  and  double. 


arborca.  Erica  ciuerea,  varieties. 

australis.  vagans. 

nana.  multiflora  carnea. 


totralix,  varieties. rubra. 

The   superb   genus  Camellia  is   the  only  other  that 
shall  here  be  noticed.  ■  To  the  elegance  of  the  finest 


306  FLOWER  GARBEN. 

evefgr.eBn,  the  Camellia  Japonica  unites  the  beauty  of 
the  fairest  rose.  The  "  Camellia,  though  a  native  of 
Japan,  is. not  particularly  tender,  but,  from  some  pecu- 
liarities in  its  constitution,  its  culture  requires  a  con- 
siderable de;]rree  of  attentioli  and  care.  Cuttino-s  of  the 
single  red  variety  strike  freely,  and  upon  these,  as  stocks, 
the  finer  sorts  are  grafted  by  inarching  or  side-grafting. 
The  soil  generally  erbployed  is  a  mixture  of  peat  and 
light  loam.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the  roots 
to  become  matted  in  the  pots^.  The  young  plants  should 
be  shifted  at  least  once  a  year ;  when  old,  and  in  large 
tubs,  shifting  once  in  two  years  will  be  sufficient.  It  is 
found  beneficial  to  apply  a  certain  increased  degree  of 
heat  while  the  plants  are  growing,  and  till  they  form 
flower-buds  for  the  following  season.  To  have  Camel- 
lias in  perfection,  a  house  with  a  span-roof  should  be 
appropriated  for  their  reception.  There  are  some  splen- 
did collections  of  this  noble  plant,  in  appropriate  houses, 
in  the  nursery  gardens  in  the  neighborhood  of  London, 
particularly  at  Hackney,  Yauxhall,  and  Clapton. 

Conservatory  P^anfs.— These  are  composed  of  a  se- 
lection from  the  numerous  inmates  of  the  green-house. 
They  should  be  naturally  of  an  elegant  form,  capable 
in  general  of  sustaining  themselves  without  the  support 
of  stakes,  and  somewhat  hardy  in  their  constitution. 
Many  of  the  Australian  plants,  particularly  the  Acacias 
and  Banksias,  are  well  adapted  for  this  purpose.  The 
ascending  Proteas  of  the  Cape,  Clethra  arbora  of  Ma- 
deira, and  many  others  of  a  similar  habit,  may  likewise 
take  their  place  in  this  department.  To  these  may  be 
added  a  few  of  the  hardier  Heaths  and  Camellias,  to- 
gether with  the  broad-leaved  Myrtle,  double-flowering 
Pomegranate,  Camphor-laurel,  Tea-tree,  and  some  -of 


STOVE  PLANTS.  307 

the  varieties  of  the  magnificent  Rhododendron  arbx)- 
reum.  Any  wall  in  the  interior  of  the  house  may  be 
furnished  with  a  trellis,  and  covered  with  such  climbing 
2:)lants  as  Lpnicera  Japonica^  Maurandia  semperflorens, 
and  Barclayana,  and  the  trailing  Pelargoniums.  In  the 
management  of  the  conservatory,  abundant  air  should 
be  admitted,  and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  allow 
the  plants'  to  become  draivn,  or  too  tall  and  spindle- 
formed  by  overcrowding.  They  should  be  so  pruned 
as  to  keep  them  comparatively  short  and  bushy ;  but 
after  all  pains  have  been  taken,  the  time  at  length  ar- 
rives when  they  either  disfigure  themselves  by  pressing 
against  the.  roof-glass,  or  must  submit  to  the  no  less 
distorting  process  of  a  violent  amputation.  To  meet 
such  exigencies,  it  is  recommended  that,  wherever  there 
is  also  a  green-house,  a  few  plants  should  be  kept  in 
training  for  the  conservatory,  and  substituted  in  the 
room  of  any  that,  from  excess  of  growth,  become  un- 
manageable. After  all,  the*  fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth 
summers  of  the  conservatory  w^ill  always  be  the  finest; 
and  when  a  longer  series  of  years  have  gone  by,  and 
the  plants  have  outgrown  the  space  allotted  to  them, 
perhaps  the  best  thing  that  can  be  done  is  to  change 
the  whole  interior  of  the  house,  plants,  earth,  and  all. 
If  this  operation  be  anticipated,  and  for  a  year  or  two 
prepared  for,  sufiiciently  large  plants  may  be  had  in 
readiness,  and  the  appearance  of  a  well-furnished  house 
be  again  pretty  well  attained  in  a  single  season.  It  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  add,  that  the  neatness  which  is 
so  desirable  everywhere  in  the  flawer  garden  is  abso- 
lutely indispensable  in  the  .conservatory. 

Stove  Plants. — There  are  many  beautiful  plants,  na- 
tives of  tropical  regions,  whi-ch  arc  cultivated  in  our 


308  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

stoves,  but  wliich,  owing  to  the  high  temperature  they 
require,  T?an  he  only  occasionally  visited  with  pleasure. 
This  may  account  for  the  fact  that  ornamental  plant- 
stoves  are  seldom  found  but  in  first-rate  gardens,  even 
where  the  price  of  fuel  is  inconsiderable.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  be  minute  respecting  the  culture  of  dry-stove 
plants,  it  being  precisely  that  of  green-house  plants, 
differing  only  in  the  increased  degree  of  heat.  Many 
dry-stove  plants  are  succulent,  such  as  those  belonging 
to  the  genera  Cactus,  Aloe,  and  Mesembryanthemum. 
These  require  rather  an  arid  soil,  composed  of  a  little 
light  loum  mixed  with  lime-rubbish  or  shivers.  One  of 
the  most  successful  growers  of  the  cactus  tribe  was  the 
late  Mr.  Walter  Henderson  at  Woodhall.  The  compost 
which  he  employed  consisted  of  1  part  rotted'dang,  1 
rotted  leaves,  1  heath  mould,  1 J  loam,  and  1  coarse  sand, 
all  well  mixed  together;  and  the  pot  was  nearly  one- 
third  filled  with  shreds,  so  as  to  form  an  effectual  drain. 
Some  of  the  species,  such  as  Cactus  speciosus  and  Ce- 
reus  flagelliformis,  are  improved,  and  made  to  flower 
more  freely,  by  being  kept  growing  vigorously  in  an 
airy  green-house  during  the  surtimer  months.  The  hark- 
stove  plants  thrive  best  in  a  confined  moist  atmosphere, 
possessing  something  of  the  tepid  vapor  peculiar  to  the 
equatorial  climes.  In  order  to  furnish  bottom-heat,  a 
bark  pit  is  prepared,  into  which  the  pots  or  tubs  are 
sunk ;  and  the  air  is  heated  by  flues,  by  steam,  or,  what 
is  better,  by  a  circulation  of  hot  water.  Along  the  front 
glass,  and  on  the  back  wall,  are  shelves,  on  which  pots 
may  be  arranged,  according  as  the  plants  require  light 
or  shade.  On  the  front  shelves  are  occasionally  placed 
shallow  troughs  filled  with  sphagnum,  and  fragments 
of  peat-moss  or  decayed  wood,  for  the  reception  of  air 


^TOVE  PLANTS.  809 

plants  and  other  epiphytes.  Small  cisterns,  too,  are  in- 
troduced to  contain  tender  aqua^tics.  Along  the  rafters 
some  of  the  more  elegant  species  of  Passiflora,  such  as 
P.  quadrangularis,  may  be  trained;  and  through  the 
branchgs  of  some  of  the  woody  plants,  Cuscuta  Chilensis, 
Tropgeolum  tricolorum  and  Jarrattii,  and  other  tended 
climbers,  may  be  allowed  to  twine  themselves.  In  the 
pit  may  be  plunged  some  of  the  Palms,  those  princes  of 
plants,  particularly  the  Chinese  Plaintain,  Musa  Caven- 
dishii,  which  is  of  comparatively  humble  growth,  and 
often  yields  its  fruit  when  not  exceeding  six  feet  in 
height.  In  short,  there  is  no  end  of  those  numerous 
tribes,  "  the  potent  sons  of  moisture  and  of  heat,"  with 
"which  the  teeming  regions  of  the  equator  are  filled;  and 
no  suite  of  stoves  in  this  country,  however  extensive,  can 
come  up  to  the  wishes  of  the  botanist.  The  manage- 
ment of  this  department  of  floriculture  is  laborious  and 
trying  to  the  constitution  of  the  operative  gardener. 
A  strong  heat  both  in  the  bark-bed  and  in  the  atmo- 
sphere of  the  house  must  be  maintained;  the  air  must 
be  kept  charged  with  vapor,  and  the  plants  require 
frequent  shifting  and  repotting.  For  more  detailed  in- 
formation as  to  the  management  of  particular  stove 
plants,  we  may  again  refer  to  Gushing,  who,  in  his 
Exotic  Gardener^  has  treated  this  subject  with  a  skill 
and  fulness  that  liave  not  been  surpassed  by  any  of  his 
successors. 

To  the  precautions  recommended  for  protecting 
plants  placed  under  glass  during  the  American  winter, 
it  is  necessary  to  a^dd  that  much  greater  care  is  requi- 
site in  guarding  against  the  effects  of  extreme  cold 
and  sudden  variations  on  the  western  than  on  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  Atlantic.  The  thermometer  in  the 
27 


310  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

green-house  should  never  be  allowed  to  descend  below 
forty  degrees  in  the  absence  of  the  sun  ;  and  even  at 
that  temperature  plants  will,  in  very  clear  cold  weather, 
often  part  with  so  much  of  their  warmth  through  radi- 
ation as  to  be  nipped  by  frost.  But,  in  closing  out  the 
cold  external  air,  the  vital  importance  of  ventilation  to 
plants  must  not  be  forgotten,  and  fresh  air  should  be 
cautiously  admitted  on  all  occasions.  When  the  tem- 
perature is  high,  plants  require  more  watering  than 
when  the  thermometer  is  low.  In  very  cold  spells, 
much  moisture  invites  frost.  Whenever  the  weather  is 
sufficiently  mild,  the  plants  should  be  allowed  the  full 
benefit  of  the  open  air. 

Tropical  Orehidacese. — Till  within  the  last  few  years, 
the  cultivation  of  epidendrous  plants  was  deemed  too 
difficult  to  be  attempted  in  private  establishments,  and 
was  resigned  to  Royal  Gardens.  A  great  revolution  in 
this  respect  has  since  taken  place  ;  epiphytes  being  now 
extensively  cultivated.  The  collection  of  such  plants 
in  the  principal  nursery  gardens  near  London  is  vast, 
particularly  at  those  of  Loddiges,  Hackney — Rollisons, 
Tooting — Knight,  Chelsea — and  Low,  Clapton.  Some 
amateur  cultivators  eminently  excel  in  them ;  such  as 
the  Duke  of  Devonshire  at  Chatsworth,  where  Mr. 
Paxton  presides;  Earl  Fitzwilliam  at  Wentworth,  where 
Mr.  Cooper  is  gardener;  Mr.  Bateman  at  Knypersley, 
and  Mr.  Bucker  at  Wandsworth.  More  than  1000 
species  of  epiphytes  are  now  in  cultivation.  They  are 
all  tropical  productions,  and,  of  course,  need  stove-heat 
in  this  country;  but  those  from- the  East  Indies  require 
a  higher  temperature  and  more  humid  atmosphere  than 
those  from  South  America.  "  In  Scotland,  the  cultiva- 
tion of  tropical  epiphytes  is  carried  to  great  perfection 


TROPICAL  ORCIIIDACE^.  811 

at  the  Botanic  Gardens  of  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow, 
and  also  at  the  Experimental  Garden  of  the  Caledonian 
Horticultural  Society,  Edinburgh;  and  the  practices 
followed  in  these  establishments  are  here  recommended. 
In  some  private  gardens,  likewise,  such  epiphytes  are 
grown  with  great  success;  particularly  at  Dalkeith 
Park,  under  Mr.  Mackintosh,  and  Bothwell  Castle, 
under  Mr.  Turnbull.  It  has  now  been  fully  ascertained 
by  extensive  experience,  that  their  cultivation  is  not 
nearly  so  difficult  as  was  formerly  supposed.  When 
pots  or  shallow  pans  are  used,  they  should  be  well  fur- 
nished at  bottom  with  shivers,  or  broken  bricks  or  tiles, 
to  drain  off  superfluous  moisture,  and  then  filled  up  with 
oblong  pieces  of  spongy  peat,  between  t\yo  and  three 
inches  in  length,  and  more  than  an  inch  in  breadth  and 
depth.  Chips  of  rotten  sticks,  and  tufts  of  decayed 
hypnum  or  sphagnum,  and  the  mixture  of  fibrous  roots 
which  may  be  grubbed  up  in  any  wood  having  a  light 
or  sandy  soil,  may  often  be  used  with  advantage,  for 
the  growth  of  Dendrobiums,  and  for  all  wicker  baskets 
suspended  by  wires  from  the  rafters,  where  peat  would 
be  apt  to  get  too  dry  and  hard.  Some  kinds  are  the 
better  for  being  fostered  with  the  bottom-heat  of  a  tan- 
bed.  The  roots  are  generally  thrown  out  near  the  sur- 
face: a  principal  point  in  the  culture  consists  in  en- 
couraging the  development  of  these;  the  compost  of 
peat  and  other  substances,  should  therefore  be  raised 
several  inches  above  the  margin  of  the  pot,  so  that  the 
superficial  roots  may  have  free  scope.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary that  the  peat  used  should  he  dried;  in  general  it 
is  found  to  answer  best  when  it  is  rather  soft  and  spongy. 
When  the  peat  is  dry,  it  is  difficult  to  get  wooden-pegs 
to  penetrate  without  breaking  the  peat,  particularly  for 


312  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Stanhopeas,  or  plants  requiring  to  be  piled  high  up. 
The  plants  may  be  piled  on  the  peat  from  six  to  eight- 
een inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plant,  and  of 
the  pot  used.  Stanhopeas  are  found  to  flower  -best 
when  planted  on  rough  peat,  a  considerable  height 
above  the  edge  of  the  pots  or  flats  used,  so  as  to  allow 
the  flowers  to  come  out  from  the  crevices  of  the  peat. 
They  are  also  cultivated  successfully  in  baskets  of  cop- 
per-wire, made  with  the  work  very  open,  and  filled  with 
sphagnum  moss.  The  former  method  is  particularly 
adapted  for  a  warm,  dry  atmosphere ;  and  the  latter 
for  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere.  In  wire-baskets,  like- 
wise, amongst  rough  peat,  the  various  species  of  Epi- 
phyllum,  with  Drymonia  punctata  and  Brugmansia  flori- 
bunda,  may  be  successfully. cultivated. 

The  following  epiphytes  are  easily  cultivated  in  a 
vinery  or  a  pine-pit,  in  pots  filled  with  pieces  of  peat : 
Catasetum  tridentatum,  floribundum ;  Brassia  maculata ; 
Oncidium  flexuosum,  pulvinatum;  Gongora  atro-pur- 
purea  ;  Cattleya  intermedia,  Forbesii,  labiata,  crispa ; 
Zygopetalon  Mackayi ;  Stanhopea  insignis,  grandiflora, 
oculata,  tigrina,  Devoniana  ;  Crytopodium  Andersonii ; 
Acropera  Loddigesii.  The  following  kinds  are  well 
adapted  for  being  placed  in  pots  filled  with  hypnum  or 
sphagnum,  and  suspended  from  the  rafters ;  Dendro- 
bium  Pierardi,  cucullatum,  speciosum;  Oncidium  bifo- 
lium,papilio,  junceum;  Fernandesia  elegans;  Aeranthes 
grandiflora  ;  Vanda  teres,  multiflora  ;  Broughtonia  san- 
guinea  ;  Rodriguesia  secunda.  Some  of  the  larger  spe- 
cies grow  best  in  rough,  black  peat-soil,  and  flower 
freely  under  ordinary  treatment  in  a  stove ;  such  as 
Phajus  maculatus  ;  Calanthe  veratrifolia  ;  Bletia  macu- 
lata ;  Peristeria  elata;  Cymbidium  siense,  aloefolium, 


FORCING  GARDEN.  813 

ensifolium.  Cypripedium  insigne,  and  venustum.  The 
Vanilla  planifolia  may  be  cultivated  in  the  same 
way ;  and  it  has  been  found,  that  if  the  retinaculum 
be  carefully  removed  from  the  top  of  the  stigma,  and 
the  anther  turned  down  to  the  stigma,  the  very  fragrant 
fruit  of  this  plant  may  be  produced  in  our  stoves. 

A  principal  object  should  be  to  imitate,  in  some  mea- 
sure, the  native  climate  of  these  orchidacese;  to  give 
them  a  .dry  or  hot  season,  a  rainy  or  watering  period, 
and  a  cold  or  winter  season.  Generally  speaking,  the 
dry  season  may  include  May,  June,  and  July ;  the  wa- 
tering period,  August,  September,  and  October;  and 
the  cold  season  the  rest  of  the  year. 

The  propagation  of.  these  epiphytes  is  not  in  general 
difficult.  Many  sorts  form  pseudo-bulbs,  by  means  of 
which  they  are  readily  multiplied.  In  others,  if  the  rhi- 
zoma  or  root-stock  be  divided,  with  a  piece  of- stem  ad- 
hering, there  is  little  risk  of  failure.  These  plants 
come  into  flower  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  blos- 
soms of  many  are  beautiful,  and  of  the  most  curious 
structure  ;  and  some  are  fragrant. 


THE  FORCING  GARDEN 

is  only  a  department,  but  an  important  one,  of  the 
Fruit  Garden.  ~  The  term  forcing  is  strictly  applicable 
only  to  those  artificial  processes  by  which  vegetation  is 
in  a  considerable  degree  accelerated  ;  but  in  common 
language  it  has  been  applied  to  all  those  operations  in 
which  glazed  frames  or  houses  are  concerned,  though 
they  may  be  employed  merely  in  aiding  the  common 
progress  of  nature,  or  in  counteracting  the  great  vicis- 

*27 


314  FORCING  GARDEN. 

situdes  of  our  climate.  For  the  sake  of  convenience, 
we  shall  adopt  the  term  in  its  broadest  acceptation. 
After  some  preliminary  observations,  we  shall  first  treat 
of  the  structures,  and  then  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables 
which  are  cultivated  in  them. 

The  principal  object  of  hot-houses,  and  other  struc- 
tures of  a  similar  nature,  is  to  produce  an  artificial 
temperature  and  humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  which 
shall  resemble,  as  nearly  as  possible.,  the  climate  in 
which  the  fruits  or  plants  naturally  flourish.  A  com- 
mand of  heat  is  obviously  a  primary  requisite.  A  re- 
gulated admission  of  air,  and  the  presence  of  a  certain 
degree  of  moisture,  are,  in  the  next  place,  necessary. 
Lastly,  without  the  free  access  of  light,  plants  become 
blanched,  or  are  destroyed  by  the  moisture  which  they 
generate.  These,  then,  are  the  conditions  which  limit 
the  form  of  hot-houses  ;  when  these  are  attained,  any 
form  may  be  adopted  which  invention  can  devise,  or 
wealth  execute  ;  but  every  true  lover  of  the  art  will 
aim  at  simplicity,  and  will  deprecate  useless  expendi- 
ture, so  often  exhibited  in  this  department,  as  injurious 
to  the  character  as  well  as  to  the  progress  of  horticul- 
ture. 

Artificial  Heat. — Forcing-houses  are  heated  in  various 
ways  ;  by  means  o^  flues  conveying  smoke  and  heated 
air  ;  by  'pipes  conducting  steam  or  hot  water;  by  so 
constructing  the  glazed  house  as  to  increase  the  calo- 
rific action  of  the  sun's  rays ;  and  sometimes  by  the 
heat  generated  in  the  course  of  the  fermentation  of  ve- 
getable substances. 

Flues  are  generally  constructed  of  common  brick, 
though  occasionally  fire-brick  is  employed  in  the  nech^ 
or  that  part  of  the  flue  immediately  adjoining  the  fur- 


ARTIFICIAL  HEAT.  315 

nace.  The  bricks  in  the  side  walls  are  placed  on  their 
edges,  and  the  top  covering  is  of  tile  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  thickness.  In  districts  where  sandstone  flag  abounds, 
the  covers  are  often  formed  of  that  material.  Horti- 
cultural writers  have  recommended  that  flues  should 
be  about  eighteen  inches  deep,  and  of  nearly  equal 
breadth  ;  but  to  obtain  the  greatest  quantity  of  heat,  it 
clearly  appears,  from  the  experiments  of  Mr.  Stevenson 
{Cal.  Hort.  Mem.,  i.  143),  that,  where  possible,  the 
breadth  should  be  nearly  double  the  depth.  It  is  ad- 
vantageous to  detach  flues  as  much  as  possible  from  the 
walls  of  the  building  which  encloses  them,  in  order  that 
the  heat  may  be  communicated  to  the  air  only.  For- 
merly they  were  often  built,  sometimes  one  above  an- 
other, with  only  one  side  exposed,  a  practice  which,  as 
it  occasioned  great  waste  of  heat  from  conduction,  has 
been  generally  abandoned.  When  it  is  necessary  to 
lead  one  flue  above  another,  or  to  make  it  return  upon 
itself,  spaces  should  be  left  between  them,  to  allow  the 
free  passage  of  caloric  from  every  side. 

AYith  a  view  to  economy' qf  fuel,  can-flues  and  cast- 
iron  cylinders  have  been  proposed,  and  occasionally 
adopted,  but  their  use  has  not  hitherto  become  general. 
The  arrangement  of  the  flues  must  depeUd  upon  the 
nature  of  the  house  ;  it  may,  however,  be  remarked 
generally,  that,  as  heated  air  has  a  tendency  to  ascend, 
they  should  be  placed  as  near  as  can  conveniently  be 
done  to  the  front  of  the  house,  where,  of  course,  the 
sloping  roof  is  lowest.  It  is  likewise  important  that 
the  flue  should  be  introduced,  and  exert  its  greatest 
influence,  at  that  part  of  the  structure  which  is  most 
exposed  to  any  refrigerating  cause. 

The  furnace  is  most  properly  situate  behind  the  house. 


316  FORCING  GARDEN. 

and  is  generally  covered  by  a  shed.  For  the  most 
part  it  is  constructed  so  that  the  upper  part  of  its  arch 
shall  be  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  flue  ;  but  where 
a  considerable  heat  is  required,  as  in  pine-apple  stoves, 
it  is  found  preferable  to  sink  the  furnace,  in  order  to 
produce  a  nech  or  rise  of  about  a  foot  and  a  half  in 
height,  which  moderates  the  intensity  of  the  heat  on  its 
first  entrance,  and,  by  increasing  the  draught,  causes 
the  fire  to  burn  freely.  The  size  of  the  furnace  must  be 
regulated  by  the  kind  of  fuel  employed.  Where  coke 
or  charcoal  is  used,  it  may  be  about  eighteen  inches 
square  ;  but  where  small  coal,  turf,  or  peat  is  to  be 
burned,  it  should  be  two  feet,  or  even  two  and  a  half, 
square,  by  two  feet  in  height.  A  la'rge  furnace  insures 
the  long  continuance  of  the  fire,  a  fact  which  in  practice 
has  received  too  little  attention.  To  resist  the  effects 
of  heat,  the  interior -should  be  lined  with-  fire-brick. 
The  roof  should  be  strongly  arched^  The  door  may  be 
about  a  foot  square,  and  when  it  is  double,^  as  it  ought 
always  to  be,  the  outer  half  should  ha  a  little  larger 
than  the  inner.  The  grate  is  of- the  same  breadth  as 
the  door,  and  may  extend'about  two-thirds  of  the  length 
of  the  furnace.  The  ash-pit  is  equally  wide,  and  from 
fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  deep ;  it  is  furnished  with  a 
ventilator  in  the  door  to  regulate  the  admission  of  air. 
In  practice  the  furnace,  and  especially  the  ash-pit, 
should  be  kept  clear  of  ashes ;  as  by  this  mean?,  coals 
of  an  inferior  quality  may  be  burnt  with  ease. 

The  following  figure  (Fig.  22)  represents  a  longitudinal 
section  of  the  common  garden  furnace.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  double  wall  to  prevent  the  escape  of  heat. 

Mr..  Witty  has  invented  a  furnace,  which  is  pos- 
sessed of  valuable  qualities.     A  vertical  section  of  it 


ARTIFICIAL  HEAT. 

Fiff.  22. 


317 


is  given  in  Fig.  23.  The  fuel  is  supplied  bj  the  door 
at  a,  and  is  pressed  down  the  inclined  plane  toward^ 
the  grate  c,  hj  an  apparatus  placed  at  the  head  of 
it;  but  this  method,  being  complicated,  has  given  way 


Fig.  23. 


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to  several  modifications,  in  which  the  door  a  has  been 
found  the  most  useful,  the  fuel  being  pressed  forward 
by  the  common  tools  used  for  feeding  furnaces :  h  is 
the  door  for  regulating  the  fuel  on  the  grate  c.  In 
its  progress,  the  whole  surface  of  the  coal  along  the 
inclined  plane  is  constantly  kept  in  a  state  of  inflam- 
mation, the  flame  having  naturally  a  tendency  to  burn 
upwards.     In   this  way,  the  greater  part  of  the  fresh 


318  FORGING  GARDEN. 

coal  is  carbonized,  that  is,  the  gas  is  separated  from  it 
and  inflamed,  leaving  onlj  coke.  .  The  strong  combus- 
tion of  the  coke  at  the  grate  produces  heat  enough  to 
carbonize  the  coal^  and  air  enough  to  inflame  the  gas. 
This  furnace,  therefore,  not  only  consumes  most  of  the 
smoke,  but  eifects  a  considerable  saving  of  fuel. 

Steam. — Of  late  years  steam  has  been  applied  with 
success  to  the  production  of  an  artificial  climate  in 
glazed  houses.  It  is  more  genial  than  fire-heat  from 
flues,  being  less  contaminated,  and  more  equable  and 
pliant  in  its  distribution.  In  steam  hot-houses,  the  plants 
can  scarcely  ever  be  liable  to  suffer  from  scorching 
heat ;  the  air  continues  pure  and  untainted,  and  per- 
sons visiting  the  house  are  much  less  liable  to  be  an- 
noyed by  the  smell  of  smoke  and  soot.  It  is  neater  in 
all  its  arrangements  within  doors  and  also  without,  for 
it  precludes  the  necessity  of  more  thaji  one  furnace,  and 
one  chimney-top,  and  in  a  great  measure  removes  the 
unseemliness  of  the  heaps  of  coals  and  ashes  with  which 
common  furnaces  are  usually  surrounded.  In  districts 
where  coals  are  dear,  the  saving  of  fuel  is  an  object ; 
and  it  has  been  found  that  seven  bushels  of  coals  go  as 
far  in  keeping  up  steam  heat  as  ten  bushels  do  in  main- 
taining an  equal  temperature  in  the  ordinary  way.  By 
merely  opening  a  valvcj  the  house  may  at  any  time  be 
effectually  steamed^  that  is,  filled  with  the  steam  or  va- 
por, and  the  warm  moisture  thus  applied  to  the  plants 
is  observed  to  contribute  remarkably  to  their  health 
and  vigor.  To  counterbalance  these  advantages,  we 
are  not  aware  of  any  defects,  except  such' as  may  arise 
from  the  greater  complexity  of  the  apparatus,  or  at 
least  its  liability  to  disrepair  and  accident.  - 

Steam  is  generated  in  a  cast  or  wrought  iron  boiler, 


STEAM.  319 

of  an  oblong  form,  furnished  T\-itli  safety-valves,  and 
heated  by  a  smoke-consummg  furnace.  As  in  the  com- 
mon steam-engine^  the  boiler  is  supplied  from  a  cistern 
above,  and  is  made  to  regulate  itself  by  a  simple  con- 
trivance. In  the  feed-hfiad  is  a  valve,  which  is  opened 
by  the  sinking  of  a  float,  which  descends  in  proportion 
as  the  water  is  dissipated  in  steam  ;  and,  being  balanced 
by  a  weight,  whenever  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  is 
admitted,  rises  again,  and  shuts  the  valv-e.  As  steam 
may  be  conveyed,  without  materially  impairing  its  calo- 
rific powers,  to  the  distance  of  several  thousand  feet, 
one  boiler  is  sufficient  for  heating  all  the  glazed  houses 
which  are  ever  erected  together ;  but  a  second  is  gene- 
rally kept  in  readiness,  to  act  as  an  auxiliary  in  case  of 
accident,  or  in  very  severe  weather.  Steam  is  con- 
ducted from  the  boiler  in  a  single  main  pipe,  or  in  two 
parallel  pipes,  which,  according  to  Mr.  Tredgold,  may 
be  only  one  inch  in  bore.  The  divarications  of  the 
pipes  into  particular  houses  are  arranged  somewhat  in 
the  manner  of  flues,  and,  indeed,  are  sometimes  placed 
within  these,  or  on  them,  when  they  already  exist. 
These  interior  pipes  are  from  three  to  six  inches  in  dia- 
meter, in  order  to  afford  a  greater  radiating  surface, 
and  are  supplied  with  sets  of  valves,  to  admit,  regulate, 
or  exclude  the  heated  vapor,  according  to  circum- 
stances. 

The  mos|  perfect  and  extensive  samples  of  steam  ap- 
paratus exiist  at  Syon  House,  the  princely  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Northumberland,  near  Brentford,  and  in  the 
nursery  garden  of  Messrs.  Loddiges  at  Hackney.  At 
the  latter  place,  glazed  houses,  to  the  extent  of  almost 
a  thousand  feet  in  length,  and  forming  three  sides  of  a 
square,   are  heated  solely  by   steam  from  one  boiler. 


320 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


The  boiler  is  of  an  oblong  shape,  measuring  eleven  feet 
by  four,  and  is  formed  of  malleable  iron.  In  certain 
narrow  houses  intended  by  Messrs.  Loddiges  for  green- 
house plants,  a  single  steam-pipe  is  found  sufficient.  In 
other  houses  of  considerable  height  and  breadth,  or 
where  a  higher  temperature  is  required,  as  in  the  palm- 
house,  the  steam-flue  is  made  to  describe  two  or  three 
turns. 

Water,  contained  in  large  vessels  or  pipes,  is  some- 
times heated  by  steam,  and  so  made  the  medium  of 
conveying  caloric  to  the  atmosphere  of  glazed  houses. 
The  annexed  figure  represents  an   example  of  this  ar- 

Fig.  24. 


rangement.  In  the  instance  here  given,  a  small  steam- 
tube,  one  inch  in  diameter,  enters  a  water-pipe  eight 
inches  in  diameter,  and  twenty-eight  feet  long,  wholly 
within  the  forcing-house ;  it  passes  into  the  large  pipe 
at  the  centre,  and  after  traversing  its  whole  length  and 
returning,  it  issues  out  immediately  below  the  point  at 
which  it  entered.  It  then  forms  a  siphon,  by  which  the 
condensed  water  is  conveyed  away.  A  more  detailed 
description  may  be  found  in  the  London  Sorticultural 
Transactions^  vol.  iii. 

Steam  is  sometimes  employed  to  furnish  bottom 
heat.  In  the  garden  of  Mr.  Sturge,  near  Bath,  a  shal- 
low cistern  of  water  is  heated  by  a  steam-pipe,  in  the 


STEAM. 


321 


manner  exhibited  in  the  two  following  figures.  The 
cistern  is  covered  with  pavement,  over  which  is  a  bed 
of  small  stones,  then  ashes  or  sand,  into  which  the  pots 
containing  plants  are  to  be  plunged. 


Fi-  25. 


^^w^=^^ds^^m 


Steam  has  also  been  employed  to  heat  flues.  The  fol- 
lowing figure  represents  a  side  view  and  section  of  a  flue 
filled  with  small  stones  or  broken  bricks,  and  heated 

Fig.  26. 


by  means  of  a  small  steam-pipe  passing  along  the  lower 
part  of  the  flue.  Along  the  upper  side  of  this  pipe  arc 
a  number  of  small  holes,  becoming  more  frequent  to- 
wards the  farther  end,  to  allow  the  escape  of  steam: 
there  are,  besides,  a  few  perforations  in  the  under  side 
to  clear  away  condensed  water.     The  flue  has  a  slight 


322 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


inclination  to  that  end  of  the  house-  from   Avhich  the 
water  can  he  more  easily  drained. 

Similar  expedie;its  were  long  ago  employed,  in  the 
heating  of  forcing-pits,  by  the  late  Mr.  John  Hay,  of 
Edinburgh,  a  garden  architect  of  great  judgment  and 
experience.     Fig.   2T  represents    a   recent  variety   of 

Fi<<.  27. 


this  mode  of  supplying  surface  and  bottom  heat,  by 
discharging  steam  into  flues  and  chambers  filled  with 
stones.  The  steam  is  admitted  by  small  pipes  run- 
ning along  the  central  pit,  in  channels  about  four 
inches  deep,  and  of  the  same  width.  These  channels 
are  crossed  by  others  at  right  angles ;  and  at  the 
points  of  intersection  the  steam  is  permitted  to  escape 
by  two  small  holes,  one  on  each  side  of  the  pipe.  The 
pits  must  have  a  water-tight  paved  bottom,  with  a  de- 
clivity of  one  inch  in  ten  feet.  The  sides  and  covers  of 
the  channels  are  loosely  jointed,  and  are  permeable  by 
the  ste'am.     Stop-cocks  are  attached  to  the  pipes,  so 


HOT  WATER. 


323 


tha.t  the  supply  of  vapor  can  be  adjusted.  Another 
mode  of  adapting  steam  to  the  production  of  bottom 
heat  may  be  seen  in  Mr.  Macmurtrie's  Pine-Pit,  to  be 
afterwards  described. 

Sot  Water, — More  recently  the  circulation  of  hot 
water  in  iron  pipes  or  vessels  has  been  ^successfully  em- 
2:)loyed  in  producing  artificial  warmth.  The  tempera- 
ture derived  from  this  source  has  all  the  properties  of 
steam-heat,  with  the  following  additional  advantages : 
it  is  more  steady,  being  less  affected  by  changes  of 
temperature  in  the  open  air  than  in  houses  heated  by 
fire-flues,  or  even  by  steam-pipes ;  it  is  not  liable  to 
interruption  by  the  bursting  of  vessels,  and  it  is  more 
lasting,  as  water  does  not  cool  so  rapidly  as  aqueous 
vapori 

The  following  explanation  of  the  principle  of  the  hot- 
water  apparatus  is  given  by  the  late  Mr.  Tredgold,  in 
an  excellent  paper  in  the  Lond,  Hort.  Trails.^  vol.  vii. 
"  We  may  select  the  simple  case  of  two  vessels  placed 

Fig.  28. 


wm,k.M..mmm^m 


on  a  horizontal  plane,  with  two  pipes  to  connect  them ; 
the  vessels  being  open  at  top,  and  the  one  pipe  connect- 
ing the  lower  parts  of  the  vessels,  and  the  other  the 
upper  parts.     If  the  vessels  and  pipes  be  filled  with 


324 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


water,  and  heat  be  applied  to  the  vessel  A,  the  effect  of 
heat  will  be  to  expand  the  water  in  the  vessel  A ;  and 
its  surface  will,  in  consequence,  rise  to  a  higher  level, 
a  a,  the  former  general  level  being  h  h.  The  density 
of  the  fluid  in  the  vessel  A  will  also  decrease,  in  con- 
sequence of  its  expansion ;  but  as  soon  as  the  column, 
c  d,  of  fluid  above  the  centre  of  the  upi^er  pij^e  is  of 
greater  weight  than  the  column,  /  e,  above  that  centre, 
motion  will  commence  along  the  upper  pipe  from  A  to 
B,  and  the  change  this  motion  produces  in  the  equili- 
brium of  the  fluid  will  cause  a  corre^onding  motion  in 
the  lower  pipe  from  B  to  A ;  and,  in  short,  the  motion 
will  obviously  continue  till  the  temperature  be  nearly 
the  same  in  both  vessels ;  or  if  water  be  made  to  boil 
in  A,  it  may  also  be  boiling  hot  in  B,  because  ebullition 
in  A  will  assist  the  motion.'' 

The  figure  referred  to  in  the  preceding  quotation,  re^ 
presenting  the  common  tank  boiler  surrounded  by  a  flue, 
with  a  cistern  at  the  extremity  of  the  pipes,  exhibits  the 
form  in  which  the  apparatus  was  first  erected ;  but  as  in 

Fig.  29. 


this  arrangement  the  process  of  heating  was  very  slow, 
many  changes  have  been  made ;  the  cistern  has  gene- 


HOT  WATER. 


325 


rally  been  abandoned,  and  boilers  of  various  configura- 
tions have  been  adopted.  Fig.  29  is  a  langitudinal 
section,  and  the  following  is  a  transverse  section  of  a 


flued  tank  boiler,  in  which  the  surface  exposed  to  the 
heat  being  increased,  the  effect  required  is  accelerated, 
and  at  the  same  time  a  considerable  saving  of  fuel  is 
effected. 

,  The  conical  boiler,  invented  by  John  Rogers,  Esquire, 
of  SeVenoak^,  Kent,  is  formed  of  two  truncated  con- 
centric ones,  with  a  space  of  two  or  three  inches  be- 
tween them  for  the  water,  the  furnace  being  in  the  inner 
cone,  and  the'  fuel  supplied  ft"om  the  top. 

Mr.  Rogers'  boiler  was  originally  surrounded  with 
brick-work,  but  several  modifications  and  improvements 
of  it  have -been  introduced;  in  some  cases  it  has  been 
fitted  up  in  a  sheet-iron  case,  like  Arnot's  stove.  In 
the  following  figure,  the  boiler  is  placed  in  a  cast-iron 
stand,  with  ground  circular  furnace,  and  register  ash- 
pit doors — a  being  the  furnace,  h  the  boiler,  c  flow  and 
returning  pipes,  d  the  furnace  door,  c  smoke-pipe  to 
the  vent,  /  ash-pit,  g.  branders,  li  hole  for  cleaning  the 
furnace.     Tl\e  best  kinds  of  fuel  for  this  furnace  are 

*28 


326 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


coke,  gas-cinders,   and  anthracite  ;  but   common   coal 
which  does  not  cake  very  much  has  been  found  to  be 


Fiii.  31. 


well  adapted  for  the  purpose,  as  it  is  soon  formed  into 
coke. 

The  following  is  the  rationale  of  the  process  of  the 
heating  of  this  boiler,  as  given  by  Mr.  Rogers  in  the 
volume  of  the  Gardener'' s  Magazine  for  1840 : — 

"  As  fuel  cannot  be  consumed  without  air,  if  a  fur- 
nace be  constructed  of  considerable  depth,  and  filled 
with  fuel,  and  air  be  admitted  only  at  the  bottom,  that 
fuel  alone  is  consumed  which  lies  immediately  on  the 
bars,  and  first  receives  the  draught  of  air.  The  fuel 
above,  provided  it  transmits  the  air,  becomes  red-hot, 
or  nearly  so,  but  does  not  consume  until  that  below  it 
is  destroyed.  In  this  manner,  one  of  these  conical  fur- 
naces being  lighted  and  filled  with  fuel,  that  portion  in 
the  uppei^part  of  the  furnace,  which  cannot  burn,  ab- 
sorbs the  heat  of  the  burning  fuel  below,  and  radiates 
or  transmits  it  to  the  water  on  every  side.  So  perfect 
is  this  absorption  of  heat  that  for  several  hours  after 
the  furnace  has  been  filled  up  with  cinders,  though 
there  may  be  a  fierce  fire  below,  little  or  no  heat  escapes 


HOT  WATER. 


327 


bj  the  chimney — the  whole  being  taken  up  by  the  sur- 
rounding water.  The  economy,  therefore,  of  fuel  in 
such  an  apparatus  is  very  great.  It  is  evident  that 
excess  of  draught  must  be  carefully  guarded  against, 
so  much  only  being  allowed  as  will  consume  the  fuel 
steadily,  which  is  easily  learned  by  experience.  The 
necessity,  also,  of  keeping  the  aperture  in  front  close, 
so  that  air  enters  the  furnace  only  through  the  ash-pit, 
is  hence  evident.  The  water  (as  may  be  observed  in 
Fig.  31)  is  in  close  and  immediate  contact  with  the 
red-hot  fuel  on  all  sides,  no  black  smoking  coals  inter- 
vening, as  in  most  kinds  of  boilers  ;  hence  the  great 
power  in  proportion  to  size." 

The  economy  of  fuel  in  these  boilers  is  not  their 
principal  advantage  ;  but  their  great  recommendation  is 
a  long-continued  and  steady  heat.  When  properly 
managed,  they  may  be  depended  on  for  preserving  the 

Fiff.  32. 


liciit  for  from  fifteen  to  twenty  hours.     They  have  been 
successfully  applied  to  all  descriptions  of  hot-houses, 


328  FORCING  GARDEN. 

but  for  pits  they  are  eminently  useful,  from  the  small 
space  they  occupy.;  and  when  fired  with  coke,  gas- 
cinders,  or  anthracite,  they  give  off  very  little  smoke. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  describe  all  the  numerous  modi- 
fications of  this  apparatus ;  but  it  may  be  proper  to 
direct  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  the  close  boiler 
represented  in  Fig.  32,  in  which  is  shown  how  the 
circulation  may  be  conducted  over  a  door  or  other  ob- 
stacle. In  this  case  the  upper  pipe  must  not  ascend 
and  descend  twice :  air-tubes  ought  also  to  be  placed  in 
the  boiler,  and  on  the  highest  part  of  the  pipes ;  and 
the  whole  must  be  made  considerably  stronger  than  on 
common  occasions.  The  annexed  figure  :will  give  an 
idea  of  an  isometrical  elevation  of  a  hot-water  appara- 

Fis.  33. 


tus  for  a  vinei-y  thirty  feet  long  by  eleven  wide.  A  is 
the  boiler,  as  in  the  figure  on  p.  324 ;  B  the  upper  or 
delivering  pipe  ;  C  the  principal  part  of  the  upper  pipe, 
of  a  flat  form,  presenting  a  greater  radiating  surface, 
in  proportion  to  the  quanity  of  heat;  D  the  descending 
limb  ;  E  the  returning  pipe,  of  a  cylindrical  form. 

Mr.  Fowler  has  employed  the  siphon  as  a  part  of  the 
'hot-water  apparatus;  and  in  his  tract  on  the  Thermo- 


HOT.  WATER. 


329 


34. 


siplion,  as  he  calls  it,  has  shown  how  its  various  modifi- 
cations may  be  employed  in  warming  hot  walls,  as  well 
as  in  heating  glazed  houses.  The  following  statement 
of  the  principle  is  given  in  the  Gfardener's  Magazine, 
vol.  V.  "  Any  one  may  prove  that  hot  water  will  cir- 
culate in  a  siphon,  by  taking  a  piece  of  lead  pipe,  say 
of  half  an  inch  bore,  and  four  or  five  feet  long,  bend- 
ing it  like  a  siphon,  but  one  leg  a  good  deal  more  bent 
than  the  other,  in  order  to  give  the  descending  water 
time  and  space  for  giving  out  its  heat ;  and  then,  filling 
this  tube  with  water,  and  placing  one  hand  on  each  end 
to  retain  it  full,  immerse  the  extremities  in  a  pot  of  water 
over  a  fire,  as  represented  in  the  annexed 
diagram.  Supposing  the  water  of  a  uni- 
form temperature  in  both  legs  of  the  siphon, 
no  circulation  would  take  place;  but  suppos- 
ing it  to  cool  sooner  in  the  long  leg  a  than 
in  the  short  leg  5,  then  the  equilibrium  would 
be  destroyed,  and  the  water  in  the  long  leg 
a  would  descend,  and  draw  up  water  through 
the  short  leg  b;  and  this  circulation  would 
continue  as  long  as  the  water  c  was  main- 
tained at  a  temperature  above  that  of  the  surrounding 
atmosphere." 

Mr.  Kewley's  adaptation  of  the  siphon  is  one  of  the 
simplest  and  most  efficient  that  has  been  proposed.  In 
Fig.  35,  ace,  are  the  two  legs  of  a  siphon,  through  the 
upper  of  which  the  heated  water  ascends,  and  by  the 
lower  descends.  Immediately  over  the  descending  bend, 
a  pipe  connected  with  an  air-pump  is  inserted,  in  order 
to  fill  the  pipes,  or  remove  the  air  which  collects  in  the 
superior  limb.  Instead  of  the  air-pump,  a  funnel  with 
air-tight  valves  is  sometimes  employed.     This  mode  of 


330 


FORCIFG  GARDEN. 


Fit(.  35. 


tf— 1 


^ 


circulation  lias  been  adopted  in  some  of  tlie  principal 
nursery  gardens  near  London. 

Mr.  Charles  H.  J.  Smith,  garden  architect,  in  a  com- 
munication to  the  Scottish  Horticultural  Society,  has 
clearly  shown  that  the  system  of  heating  by  the  circula- 
tion of  hot  water  in  metallic  pipes  is  easily  applicable, 
not  only  to  any  glazed  house  constructed  with  flues,  but 
to  any  select  portion  of  an  existing  fruit-wall,  although 
already  clothed  with  peach,  vine,  or  fig-trees.  In  the 
last  case,  a  small  furnace  and  boiler  are,  of  course,  placed 
at  the  back  of  the  wall ;  the  expanding  water  rises  to  a 
cistern  near  the  top  of  thewall;  horizontal  pipes,  mak- 
ing three  or  four  turns,  are  inserted  into  the  south  front 
of  the  wall  (which  is  an  easy  operation,  as  the  w^all  is 
usually  faced  with  brick);  and  through  these  the  water 
circulates,  to  the  groat  increase. of  the  temperature  of 
the  air  surrounding  the  tree.  The  operation  should  be 
accomplished  late  in  the  autumn ;  the  tree  being  care- 
fully unnailed,  bent  forward,  and  secured  from  injury 
or  breaking,  and  as  carefully  replaced. 

Mr.  A.  Perkins  has  constructed  an  apparatus  of  small 
tubes  hermetically  sealed,  in  wdiich  water  circulates,  of 
a  temperature  varying  from  300°  to  400°  Fahrenheit. 
The  contrivance  is  very  ingenious,  and  has  been  pretty 
extensively  employed  at  London  and  Edinburgh,  in 
heating  public  offices  and  warerooms;  but  as  the  opi- 


.     HOT  WATER.  331 

nions  of  horticulturists  respecting  its  merits,  as  appli- 
cable to  the  forcing  garden,  are  still  divided,  and  as  it 
has  not  as  yet  stood  the  test  of  much  experience,  it  may 
be  sufficient  to  give  it  this  cursory  notice.  For  further 
information,  however,  we  may  refer  to  the  G-ardeners 
3Iagazme,  vols.  viii.  and  ix. 

Mr.  Corbett,  foreman  at  Poptey's  nursery  garden, 
Plymouth,  introduced  a  mode  of  employing  hot  water  as 
a  means  of  heating.  Erom  a  common  boiler  proceeds  an 
upright  tube,  and  this  tube  leads  to  a  continued  series  of 
open  gutters.  Heat  being  applied  to  the  boiler,  the  water 
jises  in  the  tube  and  flows  forward  in  the  gutters,  giving 
out  moisture  in  proportion  to  the  degree  of  heat.  As 
the  water  cools  or  becomes  more  dense  or  heavy,  it 
gradually  falls  back  'to  the  bottom  of  the  boiler. 

Mr.  Rendle,  of  Union  Road  Nursery,  Plymouth,  has 
also  introduced  a  mode  of  heating,  in  which  he  employs 
tanks  instead  of  pipes,  or  gutters,  for  both  surface  and 
bottom  heat.  These  tanks  are  formed  of  wood,  brick, 
stone,  or  cast-iron.  Wheu  formed  of  wood,  they  re- 
quire to  be  made  of  good  sound  plank,  not  less  than 
two  inches  thick,  properly  jointed,  and  are  usually 
covered  with  slates.  If  they  are  formed  of  stone  or 
brick,  the  insides  require  a  thick  coating  of  Roman 
cement,  and  for  covers,  stone,  slate,  or  brick-  pavement 
is  employed.  The  cast  iron  tanks  have  corners  of  the 
same  materials. 

When  only  ane'  tank  is  fitted  up  in  a  house  or  pit,  a 
division  is  made  along  the  centre,  leaving  an  opening  at 
the  end  farthest  from  the  boiler,  for  the  water  to  flow 
through,  tlie  hot  water  or  flow  pipe  from  the  boiler 
being  fixed  to  the  end  of  the  tank  on  one  sido  of  the 
division,  and  the  cold  water  or  return  pipe  to  the  boiler 


332  FORCING  GARDEN. 

to  the  end,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  division.  When 
two  tanks  are  used,  they  are  joined  to  the  flow  and  re- 
turn pipes  respectively,  and  united  at  the  extreme  ends. 
In  pits,  the  tanks  may  be  carried  round  the  sides  and 
ends  of  the  pit,  with  -a  division  between  the  flow  and 
return  pipes. 

The  principal  advantage  of  the  application  of  this 
mode  of  heating  consists  in  the  production  of  bottom 
heat.  Proper  provision  ought,  however,  to  be  made  for 
preventing  more  of  the  steam  or  vapor  rising  from  the 
hot  water  (into  the  house)  than  what  is  requisite ;  for, 
if  this  precaution  be  not  adopted,  there  will  be  too  much 
damp  in  the  winter  season  for  the  proper  growth  or  pre- 
servation of  the  plants.* 

To  mention  the  rays  of  the  sun  amongst  the  sources  of 
artificial  heat  may  excite  a  smile  ;  yet  it  happens  that, 
from  the  stagnation  of  air,  the  reflection  of  light  from 
walls,  and  other  circumstances,  they  often  produce  a 
very  considerable  proportion  of  the  increased  tempera- 
ture of  a  hot-house.     This  species  of  heat,  however,  is 

■^  It  will  be  seen  that  Mr.  Rendle's  mode  of  heating  is  merely 
an  extension  of  that  of  Mr.  Corbett,  described  above  ;  and  as  some 
interest  was  excited  by  Mr.  Corbett^s  claim  to  originality  in  his 
mode  of  heating,  it  may  be  proper  to  state  that  his  patent  was  seal- 
ed in  August,  1838,  while  the  same  mode,  as  described  at  page  362, 
was  in  operation  in  the  gardens  at  Hopetoun  House  in  October, 
1832,  two  years  before  the  publication  of  this  treatise  in  the  Ency- 
clopaedia Britannica.  In  the  Gardener's  Magazine  for  1830,  a  de- 
scription is  given  of  a  house  fitted  up  in  the  nursery  of  Mr.  Knight, 
King's  Koad,  Chelsea,  by  Mr.  George  Jones,  of  Birmingham,  with 
cast  iron  troughs  and  movable  covers,  from  which  account  Mr. 
Smith  believes  it  was  that  he  made  the  application  of  the  troughs 
in  the  pits  he  designed,  as  described  at  page  3C3  of  the  present 
treatise. 


HEATING.  333 

materially  affected  by  the  admission  of  the  air  necessary 
to  the  growth  and  healthy  state  of  the  plants.'  AYe  are 
not  aware  of  its  having  been  employed  as  a  primary 
'.sourcp  of  heat,  except  in  the  case  of  Dr.  Anderson's  pa- 
tent hot-house,  in  which  heated  air  was  kept,  bottled 
up,  as  it  were,  in  separate  chambers ;  an  arrangement 
too  irregular  and  unmanageable  to  be  of  much  utility 
in  our  variable  climate. 

Vegetable  substances  in  a  state  of  fermentation 
evolve  a  considerable  quantity  of  caloric,  and  are  much 
employed  to  produce  bottom  heat  in  hotbeds,  pine-ap- 
ple, or  melon  pit^.  In  a  few  instances  they  have  been 
applied  to  warm  the  atmosphere  of  vineries  and  peach- 
houses,  in  which,  however,  they  have  been  found  to  be 
but  an  indifferent  substitute  for  the  other  means  already 
explained. 

In  the  management  of  artificial  heat,  a  considerable 
degree  of  caution  is  required.  All  the  operations  of 
nature  are  gradual ;  and  in  forcing,  it  is  well  to  follow 
these  as  the  safest  examples.  The  .judicious  gardener 
will  therefore  apply  his  heat*  very  gradually  at  first  ; 
he  will  increase  it  by  degrees  for  several  weeks,  and,  in 
particular,  he  will  guard  against  any  sudden  decrease  of 
warmth,  as  nothing  is  more>  necessary  to  success  than 
that  the  course  of  vegetation  be  continued  uninterrupt- 
edly through  foliation,  inflorescence,  and  fructification. 
He  will  cause  the  temperature  to  increase  by  day  and 
decrease  by  night,  to  rise  in  summer  and  fall  in  w^inter. 
He  will,  in  short,  imitate,  as  much  as  possible,  the  na- 
tural and  varying 'influence  of  the  sun. 

It  IS  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  a  Fahrenheit 
thermometer  is.  an  indispensable  instrument  to  the  gar- 
dener, not  only  in  the  forcing-house,  but  in  every 
29 


X 


334  FORCING  GARDEN. 

department.  Six's  Registering  Thermometer  is  very- 
convenient  for  pointing  out  the  extreme  temperatures 
during  night  or  day. 

The  admission  of  Air. — The  .deteriorating  influence 
which  all  living  plants  are  supposed  to  exert  on  the- 
atmosphere  must  operate  with  tenfold  force  in,  a  glazed 
house,  where  the  proportion  of  air  to  vegetable  sub- 
stance is  infinitely  smaller  than  under  the  open  sky,  and 
where  the  corrective  agitations  of  the  wind,  and  the 
changes  of  temperature,  are  much  less  perceptibly  felt. 
The  respiration  of  plants,  and  the  exhalations  of  putre- 
scent vegetables,  require  a  constant  circulation  of  the 
aeriaL  fluid,  and  this  is  maintained  by- means  of  mov- 
able sashes,  and  ventilators  in  the  roof  of  the  house. 
Of  these,  sashes  seem  preferable,  as  less  apt  to  produce 
currents  of  cold  air,  which  are  always  injurious  to 
vegetation.  It  is,  indeed,- a  -disadvantage  that,  hy  slid- 
ing down  over  one  another,  they  diminish  the  influx  of 
light.  In  winter,  however,  when  light,  from  its  scarcity 
in  our  high  latitude,  is  most  valuable,  they  are  seldom 
drawn  down  to  any  extent;  and,  by  having  all  the  sashes 
m.ovable,  the  gardener,  with  a  little  attention,  may 
correct  in  a  great  measure  a-ny  inequality  in  this'.re- 
spfect.  Sliding^  sashes  require  a  depth  of  rafter  >hich 
greatly  augments  the,  shade  in  oblique  sunshine,'  an 
evil  which  cannot  easily  be  obviated.  With  fixed  roofs, 
and  more  especially  th6se  which  are  curvilinear  (to  be 
immediately  described),  numerous  ventilators  are  the 
only  means  by  which  a  proper  circulation  of  air  can  be 
obtained.  Some  very  intelligent  gardeners  prefer  hav- 
ing all  the  sloping  sashes  fixed,  and  ventilating  chiefly 
by  means  of  large  windows  at  each  end  of  the  house, 
aided  by  small  ventilators  in  front.  ' 


ADMrSSiaN  OF  AIR  AND* LIGHT.  66b 

The  quttntity  of  air  to  be  admitted  from  time  to  time 
must  vary  with  tile  seagon,  the  temperature  required  to 
be  kept  up,  and  the  kinds  of  plants  cultivated.  It  should 
be  given  and  withdrawn  by  degrees,  particularly  in  the 
colder  portions  of  the  year.  '  The  sashes  or  ventilators, 
for  instance,  may  be  partially  open  by  eight  A.  M.,  top 
air  being  given  before  front  air ;  full  air  may  be  em- 
ployed about  ten  :  a  reduction  should  take  place  before 
three  P.  M.,  and  the  whole  should  be  closed  betw<ien  four 
and  five  in  the  afternoon.  In  summer  less  caution  is 
necessary,  as  in  many  cases  th«  external  air  differs  little 
in  temperature  from  that  within  the  house.  Most  com- 
monly air  Is  given  only  .during  the  day,  arid  is  excluded 
at  night,  with  perhaps  an  increase  of  fire-heat.  Judi- 
cious horticulturists  will  sometimes  reverse  this  process. 
Knowing,  for  example,  that  in  the  West  Indies  chilly 
and  cold  nights  usually  succeed  the  hottest  days,  they 
will  imitate,  riature,  by  shutting  up  the  house  by  day, 
and  throwing  it  open  at  night.  This  practice,  however, 
supported  as  it  is  by  analogy,  is  subject  to  many  limit- 
ations, and  can  only  be  followed  in  our  climate  during 
the  summer  and  autumn  inonths.  It  is  useful,  not- 
withstanding, to  remember  the  principle,  though  it  ad- 
mits only  of  partial  application.    ; 

The  admission  of  Light. — In  addition  to  the  heat 
with  which  natural  light  is  always  accompanied,  there 
seems  to  be  another  property  necessary  to  vegetation, 
which,  from  some  cause  hitherto  unexplained,  is  partly 
deranged  by  its  transmission  through  glass.  The  fact, 
however,"  is  evident,  from  the  circumstance  that  plants 
thrive  better  near  glass  than  at  a  distance  from  it, 
though  the  intensity  of  light  is  apparently  undiminish- 
ed.   Hence  practical  gardeners  are  anxious  to  distribute 


336  FORCING  GARDEN.      " 

their  finer  plants  in  situations  as  close  as  possible  to 
the  glazed  roofs  of  hot-houses. 

Connected  with  the  admission,  of  light  is  the  deter- 
mination of  the  pitch  or  angle  of  elevation  of  the  roofs 
of  glazed  houses.  It  is  evidently  of  advantage  that  the 
rays  of  light  should  fall  upon  glass  perpendicularly,  as 
loss  by  reflection  is  then  a  minimum,  or  indeed  little  or 
nothing.  The  angle  necesssary  to  obt-ain  this  result  is 
easily  deducible  from  the  sun's  place  in  the  ecliptic. 
At  the  equinoxes,  the  sun's  meridional  height  above  the 
horizon  at  any  point  of  the  earth's  surface  is  equal  to 
the  complement  of  the  latitude  of  that  place;  and  hence, 
in  order  that  the  sun's  rays  may  be  perpendicular  at 
that  period,  it  is  only  necessary  to  make  the  elevation- 
of  the  roof  of  the  hot-house  equal  to  the  latitude  of  the 
place.  The  angle  for  any  other  season  may  be  ob- 
tained by  subtracting  from  the  latitude  'the  declina- 
tion of  the  sun,  if  at  that  time  to  the  north  of  the 
equator,  or  by  adding  it  if  to  the  south.* .  These  periods 
are  of  course  selected  in  accordance  with  the  time  at 
which  the  direct  rays  are  most  required.  Mr.  Knight 
proposes  a  gdneral  elevation  of  34°  for  the  latitude  of 

^  The^  following  is  part  of  Bouguer's  Table  of  Reflexions. 
Of  1000  incident  rays,  when  the  . 

Angle  of  incidence  ig  75° 


75-° 

299  rays  are  reflected. 

70 

ooo 

05 

157 

60 

112 

50 

57 

40 

34 

30 

27 

20 

25 

10 

25 

1 

25 

A]>MISSION  OF  LIGHT.  337 

Londorij  an  angle  which  corresponds  to  the  20th  of  May 
and  2Xst  of  July.  This  would  afford  four  months,  from 
the  20th  of  April  to  the  21st  of  August,  during  which 
the  angle  of  incidence  af  mid-day  would  not  at  any 
time  amount  to  9°,  while  the  deviation  at  the  winter 
solstice  would  be  43-°,  and  the  loss  of  light  from  reflex- 
ion would  be  little  more  than  -^\J  .  The  Rev.  Mr.  Wil- 
kinson-recommends 45°,  a  pitch  extremely  suitable  for 
exirly  vineries  and  pine-stoves.  In  this  ease,  the  mid- 
summer deviation  would  be  .19°,  and  the  loss  ^^^j,  and 
the  midwinter  deviation  30°,  while  the  loss  is  nearly 
the  same.  From  these  .statements,'howcvcr,  and  from 
an  inspection  of  tlie  table  -  already  referred  to,  it  is 
manifest  that  mueh- greater  exactness  has  been  sought 
in  this  matter  than  is  at  all  necessary.  The  reduction 
of  the  opacity  of  the  roof,  arising  from  the  breadth  and 
depth  of  rafters. and  astragals,  is  of  much  greater  con- 
sequence. Accordingly,  in  some  glazed  houses,  parti- 
cularly those  constructed  of  metallic  substances,  rafters 
have  been  omitted  altogether.;  but  this  kind  ef  struc- 
ture leads  to  consider^able  difficulties  ^n  the  a<;lmission 
of  air.     ^.  '       •  - 

We- have  taken  it  for  granted  that  the  framework  is 
composed  of  wood ;  and  if  prim^  l^ajtic  tirtiber  be  pro- 
cured, it  will  endure  for  nearly  half  a  -century.  But  in 
some  cases  rafters  and  sashes  made  entirely  of  metal, 
generally  either  malleable  or  cast  iron,  have  been  em- 
ployed ;  and  in  others,  a  middle  course  has  been  steered 
by  adopting  wooden  mortices  and  metallic  tenons.  The 
great  objection  to  the  use  of  metal  for  rafters  and 
sashes  is,  that  it  is  too  rapid  a  conductor.  p£  caloric, 
and  too  liable  to  contraction  and  expansion  from  the. 
alternations  of  heat  and  cold  ;  the  expansion  tending  to 

29* 


338  FOECING.  GARDEN. 

render  the  sashes  immovablej  and  even  to  loosen  the 
walls ;  and  the  contraction  being  apt  to  fracture  the 
glass,,  and  to  produce  openings  between  the  sashes  at 
which  hoar-frost  may  enter. 

In  order  to  secure  the  greatest  possible  influx  of  light, 
scientific  horticulturists  have  proposed  hot-houses  with 
curvilinear  roofs.  It  was  remarked.by  Sir  Geptge  Stuart 
Mackenzie,  to  whom  the  merit  of  the  proposal  is  pri- 
marily due,  that  if  we  could  find  a  form  for  a  glass-roof, 
such  that  the  sun's  rays  should4)e  perpendicuUr  to  some 
2')art  of  it,  not  on  two  days,  but  during  the  whole  year, 
that  form  would  be  the, best.  Such  a  figure  is  the  sphere, 
and  he  therefore  proposes  a  quarter  segment  of  a  globe, 
or  semidome,  the  radius  of  which  is  iibout  fifteen  feet. 
The  frame  for  the  glass-Ajork  is  formed  of  equal  ribs  of 
hammered  iron,  fastened  into  an  iron  plate  in  the  para- 
pet wall,  and  fixed  at  top  into  an  iron  ring  connected 
with  the  back  wall.  There ,  are  no  rafters  or  sliding 
sashes,  J)ut  air  is  admitted  by  ventilators  in  the  parapet 
and  back  walls-.     .". 

This  form  of  hot-house  roofs  was  warmly  patronized 
by  the  late  Mr.  Knight,  who,  however,  was  of  opinion 
^that  the  house  proposed  by  Sir  George  Mackenzie  was 
too  high,  in  proportion  to  its  length  and  brejidth,  and 
therefore  recommended  a  smaller  section  of  a  sphere, 
with  a  greater  radius.  His  dimensions  are  forty  feet 
long,  fourteen  wide  in  the  centre,  and,  including  the 
front  parapet,  twelve  feet  fiigh.  The  late  Mt  Loudon, 
who,  it  is.  believed,  was  the  firfft'  that  actually  erected 
hot-houses  on  this  principle,  proposed  s.everal  sub- 
varieties  of  form.  He  describes  [Enci/c.  of  G-ard.)  the 
acuminated  semidome,  the  acuminated  semiglohe,  the 
shniellipse,  and  the  jjarallelogram  ivith'curved  roof  and 


CURVILINEAR  ROOFS.  339 

ends.  With  Mr.  LoiKlon,,wG  should  certainly  prefer  the 
last  mentioned.  A  considerable  number  of  curvilinear 
houses  have  been  erected  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
island  particularly  as  repositories  for  orriamefital  plants, 
such  as  in  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Kew,  Loddiges'  nur- 
series at  Hackney,  the  London  Horticultural  Society's 
Garden,  the  Manchester  Botanic  Garden,  the  Duke  of 
Northumbland's,  at  Syon  House,  and  in  Tarious  other 
private  gardens. 

As  far  as  we  are  aware,  no  extensive  experimental 
investigation  of  the  comparative-  merits  of  curvilinear 
houses  has  hitherto  been  made.  A  writer  in  the  Grar- 
deners  Blagazhie  (rol.  ii.)  states  that  he  found  it 
necessary,  during  the'summer  months,  to  shade  his  pine- 
apples growing  in  such  a  house,  from  nine  or  ten  o'clock 
in  the  morning  to  three  or  four  in  the  afternoon,  in 
order  to  prevent  the-  plants  from  assuming  a  rusty 
tinge  and  unhealthy  appearance.  Another  practical 
gardener  complains'  (vol.  v.)  fhat  ^'  the  circular  roof 
concentrated  the  swfn's  rays  so  immoderately  that  the 
tops  of  the  grape-vines  were  scorched,  €ven  when  the 
doors  and  ventilators  at  the  ba'ck  were  open.''  This, 
he  says,  was  always  the  case  in  summer;  and  in  winter, 
it  was  with,  difficulty,  and  only  with  the  assistance  of 
bast-mats,  that  he  could  keep  out  frost.  With  others, 
however,  the  curvilinear  form  has  given  great  satisfac- 
tion. A  considerable  portion  of  the  superior  lightness 
x)f  the  curvilinear  housesis  due  tothe  absence  of  rp^fters; 
and  as  these  may  also  be  dispensed  with  in  plain  roofs, 
the  cfTect  of  these  ought  to  be  deducted  in  making  a 
comparison.  Perhaps,  when  everything  else  is  rightly 
arranged,  there  is  generally  enough  of  light  in  common 
houses.     Scarcely  any  species  of  fruit,  when  cultivated 


340  'forcing  garden. 

in  the  open  air,  is  exposed  during  the  whole  day  to  the 
action  of  the  solar  rays,  but  must  unavoidably  be  shaded 
at  times  by  leaves  and  branches.  It  is  difficult  to  sup- 
pose that,  in  respect  to  illumination,  there  is  any  re- 
markable deficiency  in  pits  and  glazed  houses,  in  which 
have  been  ripened  pine-apples  and  clusters  of  grapes, 
at  least  rivaling,  if  not  surpassing,  the  produce  of ,  the 
most  favored  of  their  native  climes.  In. the  facility 
of  admitting  air,  in  the  quantity  and  convenience  of 
trellises,  and  in  other  interior  ^accommodations,  it  can- 
not be  disputed  that  the  old  forms  ha^e  rather  the  ad- 
vantage. 

It  has  already  been  said  that  hot-house  .roofs  of  the 
common  kind  are  sometimes  constructed  without  rafters 
or  movable  sashes.  A  considerable  increase  of  light 
is  thus  obtained ;  but  this  benefit  is  attended  with  an 
almost  insuperable  defect,  namely,  the  difficulty  of  pro- 
ducing a  free  and  equable  circulation  of  air.  It  is  in- 
deed probable  that  the  common  or  plain-roofed  hot- 
house will  always  continue  the  favorite  form  with  prac; 
tical  gardeners.  In  it  the  rafters  are  arranged- at  equal 
distances,  and  are  made  of  a  deep  and  narrow  form, 
with  their  under  edges  rounded  off.  Nicol  recommends 
that  they  should  be  made  two  and  one-fourtli  inches 
broad  by  ten  inches  deep.  Perhaps  they  might  be  a 
little  broader  and  shallower  with  advantage.  The  size 
of  the  sashes  may  depend  on  the  magnitude  of  the  house ; 
their  breadth,  however,  should  range  from  three  and  a 
half  to  four  feet.  Except  in  very  large  -houses,  sashes 
are  always  disposed  in  two  tiers,  the  upper  row  sliding 
down  over  the  under  one.  Where  there  are  ventilators 
in  the  front  wall  or  upright  glass,  the  sashes  in  the  up- 
per tier  alone  require  to  be  movable,  and,  for  the  sake 


HOT-HOUS^  ROOFS.  341 

of  convenience,  tliey  should  be  made  considerably 
shorter  than  the  others.  They  are  furnished  with  cords, 
pulleys,  rollers,  and  weights,  though  the  last,  with  no 
very  prudent  regard  to  economy,  are  sometimes  omitted. 
Formerly,  all  hot-houses  were  constructed  with  upright 
sashes  in  front.  One  of  the  most  eminent  garden  ar- 
chitects of  the  present  day  (Mr.  Atkinson)  has  discon- 
tinued the  practice  ;_  and,'  except  in  ornamental  struc- 
tures, it  is  hard  to  say  why  it  should  not  t)e  laid  aside 
altogether :  for  while  upright  sashes  certainly  tend .  to 
weaken  the  fabric,  and  increase  its  expense,  their  utility 
is  at  least  problematical. 

Glass  is  the  transparent  material  universally  employ^ 
ed,  for  it  is  at  once  a  ready  transmitter  of  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  and  a  bad  conductor  of  caloric,  or  it  admits 
light,  and  retains  the  heat  generated  by  flues.  That 
some  tint  of  blue  or  green  would  lessen  the  scorching 
effects  of  the  rays  seems  generally  admitted;  but  the 
precise  tint  has  not  yet  been  satisfactorily  established. 
Formerly  the  panes  of  glass  employed  were  of  large 
size,  but  small  panes  are  -found  to  be  more  economical, 
being  less  liable  to  break,  and  more  easily  replaced.  It 
is  believed  that  a  pane  seven  inches-  in  breadth  by  six 
in -length  is  the  cheapest  form  in  which  good  glass  can 
be  obtained.  In  glazing,  it  is  important  to  keep  the 
overlaps  of  the  panes  of  small  dimensions,  perhaps  from 
oncrfourth  to  one-eighth  lof  an''inch  in  breadth.  This 
diminishes  the  breakage  which  arises  from  the  expansion 
attending;  the  freezing!;  of  water  detained  between  the 
laps  by  capilldry  attraction.  As  a  further  preventive, 
the  interstices  are  sometimes  filled  with  putty,  and  oc- 
casionally with  laps  of  lead  or  copper.  This  effects  a 
considerable  saving  of  ^glass  and  of  heat,  but  imposes  on 
the  gardener  the  duty  of  increased  attention  in  prevent- 


342  FORCING  GARDEN. 

ing  the  stagnation  of  air.  The  framework  of  hot-houses 
should  be  well  coated  with  oil-paint ;  white-lead  of  a 
stone  color  being  preferred. 

In  closing  these  preliminary  remarks,  it  is  proper  to 
observe  that  although  the  construction  of  a  forcing- 
house  is  always  a  matter  of  considerable  importance,  it 
is  not  the  only  nor  even  the  most  important  condition 
necessary  to  insure  success.  Much  care  in  manage- 
ment, skill  in  pruning,  and  some  knowledge  of  physio- 
logy, must  be  possessed  and  applied,  in  order  to  obtain 
abundant  and  regular  crops  of  fine  fruit. 

The  more  minute  details  respecting  the  structure  of 
glazed  houses,  we  shall  notice  along  with  the  peculiar 
culture  required  in  each ;  and  we  shall  take  them  in 
the  following  order : .  The  Vinery  or  Grape-house,  the 
Peach-house,  the  Cherry-house,  the  Fig-house,  the 
Pinery,  the  Orangery,  and  the  Melonry.  The  green- 
house and  other  botanical  structures  will  come  more 
appropriately  under  review  in  treating  of  the  Flower 
Garden. 

The  Vinery.  Structure.-r-The  vinery  is  susceptible 
of  a  great  variety  of  form  ;  and,  indeed,  in  this  respect, 
seems  more  pliable  than  any  other  forcing-house.  Th^t 
form,  however,  w^hich  has  been  most  commonly  used,  is 
the  plane  roof  with  sliding  sashes  ;  and  such  is  the  suc- 
cess "with  which  it  has  been  employed,  and  such  its  coa- 
venience  for  every  purpose,  that  it  is  not  probable  it 
will  soon  be  generally  supplanted.  The  section  of  the 
peach-house  at  page  350  will  convey  an  idea  of  the 
usual  'iconfiguration  of  the  vinery.  On  the  following 
page,  Fig.  36  represents  a  section  and  a,  ground-plan  of 
a  curvilinear  vinery  (having  a  mushroom-house  behind), 
heated  by  hot  water. 


a:iIE.  VINERY. 
Fi-    36. 


343 


a,  Hot-water  apparatus  in  the  vinery. 

b,  Boiler  for  the  vmeTj! 

c,  Boiler  for  the  hot-water  apparatus  of  the  mushroom-house. 

d,  Pit  beTow  the  passage  of  the  mushroom-house  for  forcing 

rhubarb,  sea-kale,  &c. 
c,  \'ontilators  for  the  yinery. 


344 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


A  vinery,  with  flues  and  two  furnaces,  is  generally 
fifty  feet  long,  twelve  or  fourteen  wide  within,  the  height 
of  the  back  wall  being  ten  or  twelve  feet.  Where  there 
is  only  one  surface,  or  where  a  hot-water  apparatus  is 
employed,  the  length  of  the  house  should  -not  exceed 
thirty-five  ar  forty  feet.  Small  divisions  are  to  be  pre- 
ferred; for  w^here  there  is  a  considerable  extent  of  glass, 
the  cultivator,  by  applying  his  fires  to  the  difi^erent  di- 
visions in  succession,  can  prolong  the  crop  from  May 
to  December.  [£h.e  parapet  wall  in  front  is  commonly 
arched,  or  built  on  lintels,  supported  by  stone  pillars ; 
so  that  the  vines,  which  are  planted  inside  j;he  house, 
close  by  the  parapet,  may  send. abroad  their  roots  in 
search  of  nutriment-  Sometimes  the  vines  are  planted 
without,  and  introduced  into  the  house  by  slanting  aper- 
tures in  the  front  wall;  but  the  former  method,  w^here 
possible,  is  the  more  eligible. ,  The  trellis  used  for  train- 
ing is  generally  formed  of  wires  drawn  across  the  rafters, 
at  the  distance  of  a  foot  from  each  other.  Of  late  the 
trellis  has  frequently  been  divided  into  portions  of  a 
moderate, breadtb,  placed  vei'tically  under  the-  rafter. 
'This  foTm  is  called  the  hanging  trellis,  ^nd  is  described 
at  length  in  the  Lond.  Hortic.  Trans'.^  vol,  vi.  A  sec- 
tion of  one  variety  has  this  appearajice. 

Fi2.  37. 


THE  VINERY.  345 

This  form  leaves  the  middle  of  the  sash  open  to  the 
sun's  rays,  and  allows  the  back  wall  to  be  covered  with 
bearing  wood,  a  thing  which,  in.  other  circumstances, 
can  scarcely  be  done  .with  any  beneficial  eifect.  It 
must,  however,  be  admitted  that,  according^  to  the  ex- 
perience of  some,  this  arrangement  is  inferior  to  the 
common  trellis. 

It  is  of  importance  that  the  included  soil  and  front 
border  of  a  vinery  should  be  fresh  and  rich,  and  of 
a  considerable  depth.  Mr.  GrifFen  (in  Lond.  Hortici 
Trans.)  recommends  as  a  comj^ost  ''one-half  of  good 
loamy  soil  with  its  turf,  one-quarter  of  rich  old  dung, 
and  one-quarter  of  brick  and  lime  rubbish;  the  turf 
well  rotted,  and  the  whole  well  incorporated."  Plants 
raised  from  cuttings,  and  prepared  for  two  or  three 
years  in  pots,  are  preferred  for  the  furnishing  of  a 
vinery;  and  when  planted  inside  the  house,  there  should 
not  be  fewer  than  two  plants  to  each  sash. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  enumerate  the  particular 
varieties  of  the  grape-vine,  as  adapted  for  a  vinery,  for 
every  good  variety  deserves  a  place  where  there  is  room, 
and  all  those  which  have  been  already  mentioned  are 
occasionally  employed.  It  may  be  remarked,  however, 
that  the  kinds  should  be  assorted  according  to  the  order 
of  their  ripening.  The  early  g^i-apes,  such  as  the  Mus- 
cadines, should  be  planted  in  a  house,  by  themselves; 
those  of  a  medium  character,  the  Frontignacks  and  Black 
Hamburgh,  for  example,  may  occupy  a  second  ;  while 
the  late  Tokay,  the  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Nice,  Syrian, 
and  others,  would  be  fit  inmates  for  a  third.  This  would 
produce  a  regular  succession,  and  admit  a  uniformity  of 
treatment  in  each  house.  Where  there  is  not  a  suite 
of  vineries,  but  only  on^  large  house,  tjie  late  varieties 
30 


346  FORCING  GARDEN. 

sliould  be  placed  near  the  entrance  of  the  flues,  where 
the  temperature  is  higher. 

Pruning  and  Training. — Very  numerous^  have  been 
the  directions  given  in  reference  to  these  particulars ; 
but  we  cannot  here  go  into  such  details,  nor  is  it  neces- 
sary. The  great  object  is  the  reproduction  of  bearing, 
that  is,  annual  wood,  over  thfe  whole. surface  of  the 
house.  When  this  is  accomplished,  the  next  matter  to 
be  determined  i«  the  number  of  eyes  or  buds  to  be  left 
on  each  shoot,  that  is,  wdiether  we  shall  adopt  the  short 
or  the  long  -system  of  pruning.  The  former  is  most 
allied  to  the  practice  of  foreign  vineyards,  and  has  been 
most  successfully  employed  in  this  country.  According 
to  this  method,  all  the  lateiJal  shoots  ar^  <3ut  down  to 
single  eyes,  as  described  in  Lond.  Hortic.  Trans. ^  iv., 
104.  For  a  particular  description  of  the  long  system, 
weinay  refer  to  the  same  volume,  p,  246-,  or  io  Lou- 
don's Encyclo^xdia  of  Gardening^  second,  edition,  p. 
548.  To  these  references,  we  shall  only  add  a  few  gene- 
ral remaa'ks.  (1.)  It  ought  to  be  the  great  aim  -of 
the  British  gardener  to  make  his  vities  grow  as  luxuri- 
antly as  possible;,  for' the, good  quality  of  the  grapes, 
when  properly  ripened,  is  generally  commensurate  with 
the  streng-th  of  the  §hoota-<ind.  size  of  thp  berries.  The 
borders  should  therefore  be  ^^iade  rich ;  but  they  ought 
to  be  rather  wide  than  deep,  deep  planting  being  adverse 
to  the  ripening  of  the  fruit.  (2.)  In  order  to  secure  a 
proper  degree  of  vigor,  vines  ijliould  be  limited  in  ex- 
tent and  pruned  during  winter,  rather  severely  than 
otherwise.  To  enable  us  tQ  circumscribe  the  plants,  it 
would  bfi  .well  to  introduce  as  many  separate  plants  into 
the  vinery  as  can  be  done  without,  confusion,  ^or  an 
illustra-tion  of  ..this  principle,  we  -may  refer  to  the  prac- 


GRAPE-VINE — PRUNING  AND  TRAINING.  347 

tice  of  the  vignerons  of  Fontainebl-eau,  as  described  in 
tlie  Pomone  Francaise,  or  in  the  Lond.  Hovtic,  Trans. ^ 
voh  vii.  (3.)  From  the  peculiar  mode  of  growth  in 
the  grape-vine,  the  bearing  branches  have  a  tendency 
to  recede  from  the  centre  to  the  extremities,  and  are 
often  found  in  abundance  only  at  the  top  of  the  trellis. 
Every  young  shoot  near  the  front  of  the  house  should 
therefore  be  carefully  husbanded,  and  cut  back  by  way 
of  reserve.  Old  wood  ought  to  be  removed  as  frequently 
as  possible ;  and  the  skillful  pruner  will  look  at  least 
two  years  before  him.  Nothing  contributes  more  to 
regularity  in  the  succession  of  bearing  wood  than  sim- 
plicity in  pruning  and  training;  and,  therefore,  all 
bending,  and  twisting,  and  trav^ersing  of  branches 
should  be  avoided. 

The  summer  pruning  consists  in  removing  with  the 
fingers  useless  lateral  shoots,  and  especially  buds  not 
producing  shoots,  and  in  pinching  off  the  tender-  points 
of  the  bearing  branches.  The  extent  to  which  these 
bearing  branches  may  be  allowed  to  run  must  depend 
on  their  "vigor,  and  the  positian  which  they  hold  in 
the  plant.  Sometimes  it  may  be  needful  to  leave  them 
ten  or  twelve  feet  long,  but,  in  general,  ^two  or  three 
feet  will  be  sufficient.  -  The  shorter  the  better.  Tliey 
seldom  or  never  fail  to  send  out  secondary  laterals  from 
their  points  :  these  and  the  others  which  succeed  them 
are  stopped  at  the  second  or  even  first  eye,  and  the  ope- 
ration is  continued  until  vegetation  ceases.  When  the 
young-  grapes  begin-  to  swell,  the  clusters  are  thinned 
out,  that  is,  berries  are  removed  whenever  tlrey  are  too 
much  crowded  together,  and  the  shoulders  or  sides  of 
the  bundles  are  supported  hy  tneans  of  slender  threads 
of  bast-mat  attached  to  some  fixed  point  above."    The 


348  FORCING  GARDEN. 

quality  and  weight  of  clusters  should  be  regarded  rather 
than  .their  number.  Nothing  seems  more  contemptible 
than  numbers  of  small  and  ill-ripened  bunches  of 
grapes,  smeared,  as  they  often  are,  -with  dust  and  honey 
dew.  Avarice  not  unfrequently  cheats  itself  in  thi^ 
matter;  and  it  generally  happens  in  the  vinery,  as  else- 
where, that  not  he  who  desires  most  obtains  most.  The 
ripening,  color,  and  flavor  of  grapes  on  the  tree  are 
said  to  be  promoted  by  removing  a  portion  of  the  foliage; 
this  is  to  be  done,  however,  only  after  the  fruit  has  at- 
tained full  size;  and  by  some  it  is,  with  app^arent  justice, 
alleged  that  the  foliage  ought  never  to  be  abridged. 
If  it  be  abundant,  and  exposed  to  the  sun,  the  grapes 
will  come  to  perfection  although  shaded  by.  the  foliage. 
Sometimes  the  berries,  when  swelling,  seem  suddenly 
arrested  in  their  progress  to  maturity,  and  remain 
stunted  and  shriveled.  This  affection  is  called  shank- 
ing by  gardeners,  and  is  generally  ascribed  to  damp 
and  noisome  vapor,  or  the  want  of  due  circulation  of 
pure  air. 

The  forcing  of  the  earliest  vinery  may  commence  in 
January.  At  first  the  teijaperature  may  vary  from  50° 
to  55°  Fahrenheit  in  the  morning-S  and  evenings.  AYhen 
the  buds  have  burst,  it  may  be  raised  to  70°,  and  in  the 
flowering  season  it  may  be  kept  at  75°.  At  this  period 
it  is  necessary  that  the  air  should  be  preserved  moist  by 
frequent  steamings.  Upon  the  appearance  of  color 
in  the  fruit,  the  waterings  should  cease,  and  air  be  co- 
piously admitted.  In  the  early  vineries,  it  is  necessary 
to  continue  the  fire-heat  without  intermission  :  in  the 
later  houses  this  is  not  required,  but  it  must  be  used 
occasionally,  even  in  warm  weather,  to  obviate  the 
effects  of  damp. 


PEACH-HOUSE.  349 

The  Peach-IIouse. — A  peacli-liouse,  intended  to  be 
commanded  by  one  furnace,  is  generally  about  forty  feet 
long,  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,- and  fourteen  feet  high  ; 
but  these  dimensions  may  be  varied  considerably,  ac- 
cording to  the  time  at  which  the  crop  is  desired  to  come 
in.  For  early  forcing,  perhaps  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet 
in  length,  and  seven  or  eight  in  breadth,  are  sufficient ; 
while  a  house  ii>  which  the  operations  of  nature  are 
only  to  be  slightly  accelerated  may  be  extended  to  fifty 
feet.  As  in  the  vinery,  the  fruit  wall  is  arched,  to  per- 
mit the  egress  of  the  roots  to  the  neighboring  border. 
Upon  this  front  wall  is  usually  placed  a  range  of  up- 
right sashes,  which  are  surmounted  by  the  sloping  raft- 
ers of  the  roof.  A  common  form  of  a  peach-house  is 
annexed,  the  upper  figure  showing  the  vertical  section, 
and  the  under  one  the  ground  plan ;  a,  a,  are  the  flues, 
h  is  the  table  trellis,  c  the  trellis  on  the  back  wall ;  along 
with  which  a  hanging  trellis,  represented  at  p.  344,  is 
sometimes  employed,  although  this  is  not  approved  of 
by  many.  The  flue,  which  is.  built  on  pillars  and  re- 
turns on  itself,  occupies  the  centre  of  the  house.  The 
trees  are  trained  to  the  two  trellises  5  and  c,  and  to  the 
hanging  trellis,  if  such  be  in  use.  Against  the  back 
wall  three  or  four,d^a.rf  t4"6es  are  planted,  with  inter- 
mediate riders,  the  latter  being  altogether  removed  at 
the  end  of  four  or  five  years  at  furthest.  These,  with 
three  for  the. front. trellis,  make  in  all  nine  or  ten  trees 
for  each  house.  ; 

The  figure  on  page '351  represents  another  form  of. 
the  pcach-h-ouse-,  riot  so  generally  used  as  the  former,  bUt 
of  equal  if  riot  superior'  merit.     We  have  supposed  it 
heated  by  a  water  apparatus  «,  «,  but  that  is  not  an. 
essential  matter,  as  a  common  flue  is  equally  applicable. 

-30* 


350 


FORCING  GARDEN. 

Fig.  38. 


There  is  no  upright  front  glass,  nor  any  trellis  on  the 
back  wall,  the  trees  being  planted  in  front,  and  trained 
on  a  wire  trellis  5,  attached  to  the  rafters,  and  covering 
the  whole  surface  of  the  sloping  roof.  As  the  peach- 
tree  is  not  found  to  extend  much  more  than  twelve  or 
thirteen  feet  on  the  open  wall,  the  length  of  the.  rafter, 


PEACH-HOUSE. 


351 


inside  measure,  need  not  do  more  than  approach  to  four- 
teen feet.     It  is  obvious  that  in  such  a  house  the  trees 

Fig.  39. 


nr^y. 


must  enjoy  an  equable,  and,  frOm  their  proximity  to  the 
glass,  an  advantageous  degree  of  light.  Besides,  being 
planted  close  to  the  front  wall,  they  are  not  exposed  to 
have  their  roots  stunted  in  passing  under  the  flues,  and 
through  the  interior  soil  of  the  house,  which,  in  spite  of 
every  assiduity  in  watering  and  manuring,  is  apt  to  be- 
come hard  and  impoverished.  Further,  it  has  been  esti- 
mated that,  as  far  as  roof  ancl  glass  are  concerned,  four 
or  even  five  such  houses  may  be  erected  at  the  same 
expense  as  three  of  the  common  form.     - 

In  Holland,  peaches  are  forced  in  pits  resembling  the 
common  hotbed  or  melon-pit  of  this  country.  The 
trees  are  trained  on  a  trellis-work-  n^ar  the  glasg,  and 
the  air  is  heated  by  the  fermentation  of  stable-dung 
linings.  The  method  has  been  partially  adopted  in 
this  country,  with,  however,  the  use  of  hot  water. 
When  garden  architects  shall  cease  to  be  anxious  about 
making  all  foreing-houses  ornamental  structures,  this 
will  probably  be  the  general  form  in  which  early  and 
tender  peaches  will  be  cultivated. 


352  FjOrcing  garben. 

The  pruning  and  training  of  peacli-trees  in  the  peach- 
house  does  not  differ  materially  from  the  practice  out  of 
doors.  The  sashes  having  been  removed  in  the  autumn 
are  replaced  about  New  Year's  Day.  Fire-heat  is 
6ommonly  applied  about  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
February;  but  where  there  is  a  large  suit  of  houses, 
and  an  extended  succession- is  wanted,  forcing,  as  it  then 
truly  becomes,  may  l3egin  a  month  sooner.  At  first 
the  temperature  is  kept  about  46°,  but  it  is  afterwards 
gradually  increased  to  50°  or  55°  Fahrenheit.  While 
the  trees  are  in  flower,  and  till  the  fruit  be  set,  the 
house  is  occasionally  steamed,  either  by  sprinkling  water 
on  the  warm  flues,  or  by  admitting  the  vapor  from  the 
pipes,  where  steam  is  employed  for  heating.  After  this 
period  the  foliage  is  washed,  from  time  to  time,  with 
the  garden  engine.  '  When  the  fruit: is  stoned,  or  the 
kernels  have  been  formed,  the  temperature  is  raised  to 
about  60°.  Water  is  now  copiously^  supplied  to  the 
border:  the  fruit  is  thinned'  out*;  the  various  opera''- 
tions  of  disbudding  and  tying  are  performed,  and  air  is 
admitted  in  abundance.  *  After  the  end  of  April,  little 
fire-heat  is  reo[uired  for  the  peach-house.  The  trees 
often  suffer  from' mildew."  From  this 'malady  an  ap- 
plication oT  soap-lather  is  one  of 'the 'most  effectual 
remedies;  the  best  preventives  consist  in  keeping  the 
borders  x)f  the  peach-liou^e  Mear,  and  in'  good  condition 
as  to  fresli  soil,  and  in  taking  care  that  nothing  be  per- 
mitted to  obstruct'  tlie  free  cifculation  of  air  and.  full 
a-dmission  of  sun.  If  aphides  infesLt  t/he^  house,  a  fumi- 
gation with  tobacco  should  l>e  resorted  to. 

It  may  here  be  remarked  that  by  curious'  cultivators 
several  uncommon  kinds  of  exotie  fruiti?  arc  occa-sion- 


EXOTIC  FRUIT.  353 

ally  grown  with  success  in  conservatories^  vineries,  hot- 
houses, or  other  glazed  structures,  along  with  the  more 
regular  or  usual  inmates.  Among  these  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Loquat,  Eriohotrya  japonica ;  the  Jamro- 
sadc,  Eugenia  jamhos;  the  Purple  Granadilla  Passiflora 
edulis;  the  Granadilla  vine,  P.  quadr  angular  is ;  the 
May-apple,  P.  incarnata;  the  Water-lemon,  P.  law^i- 
folia:  and  the  Sweet  Calabash,  P.  maliformis ;  the 
Papaw,  Carica  Fafaya  ;  the  Baaai^  3Iusa  mpientum  ; 
and  M,  CavendisMi,- y^hich.  last  yields  its  fruit  readily, 
while  the  plant  does  not  attain  an  inconvenient  size. 
The  Leechee,  Ncphelium  Litohi^  has  occasionally 
ripened  in  our  stoves  ;  the  Longyen,  Euphoria  Ion- 
gajiayhixs  yielded  its  fruit  at  Syon  House;  and  the 
.Mango,  3fangifera  indiea,  at  the  garden  of  Earl  Powis. 
The  China  Guava,  Psidium  cuttleianum,  fruits  freely 
in  the  vinery  of  tha Experimental  Garden  at  Edinburgh: 
the  fruit  is  round,  about  the  size  of  a  small  plum ;  of 
a  fine  claret  color;  the  pulp  soft,  only  a  little  firmer 
than  that  of  a  strawberry,  and  of  a  pleasant,  subacid 
flavor,  making  a  moBt  desirable  preserve.  The  Car- 
ambola,  Aver.rlioa  Caramhola^  of  the  East  Indies,  has 
*  of  late  been  added  to  our  exotic  fruits,  by  Mr.  Bateman 
of  Knypersley,  near  Congleton:  the  fruit  is  of  the  size 
and  shape  of  a  duck's  Qg-g,  but  with  longitudinal  ribs 
on  the  sides;  either  in  tarts  or  as  preserve,  the  fla- 
vor is  excellent.  It  may  be  noticed  that,  both  from 
the  descriptions  of  intelligent  travelers  and  from  the 
preserved  fi-uit  being  sent  to  Britain,  we  know  that  va- 
rious species  of  exotic  fruit-trees  exist,  which  have 
not  yet  reached  us  in  a  living  state ;  and  the  introduc- 
tion of  these  might  form  an  object  of  innocent,  pleas- 


•354  FORCING  GARDEN. 

ing,  and    comme.ndable    ambition  to  enterprising   and 
wealthy  horticulturists. 

The  Cherry-House,  in  its  general  arrangements,  re- 
semblesthe  peach-house,  with  the  exception  of  the  front 
trellis,  .the  place  of  which  is  commonly  occupied  by  a 
stage  for  pots  of  early  strawberries  or  kidney-beans. 
The  cherry-trees  are  trained  against  the, back  wall;  the 
house  should  therofore  be  narrow, 'and  the  roof  steep. 
The  operation  of  forcing  generally  <jommences  early  in 
January,  with  a  very ,  moderate  temperature.  Air  is 
admitted  freely  till  the  flowers  begin  to  expand,  when . 
great  caution  becomes  necessary.  When  the  fruit  is 
setting,  the  temperature  is  kept  as  steadily  as  possible 
at  50°;  after  ^t  is  set,  abundance  of  water  is  applied  to 
the  roots  and  foliage  of  the  trees.  When  the  fruit  is 
coloring,  water  is  almost  entirely  withheld,  and  air 
freely  admitted.  During  the  whole  process  of  forcing 
cherries,  any  excessive  he"at  from  the  sun's  rarys  fnust 
be  carefully  guarded  against  by  shading  or  by  admit- 
ting of  air.  The  kind  of  cherry  usually -preferred  "for 
forcing  in  the  common  May-duke.  A  cherry-house 
ought  to  f(3rm  a  part  of  every  large  garden  establish- 
ment; for  nothing  more  signally  distinguishes  the  tables 
of  the  opulent,  in  March  and  April,  than  ripe  cherries 
appearing  along  with  strawberries  in  the  dessert  at  that 
season  of  the  year. 

The  Fig-House  scarcely  differs  in  form  and  manage- 
ment from  the  Cherry-house,  the  trees  being  trained  to 
a  back  trellis,  with  the  addition,  however,  of  dwarf 
standard  trees  in  front.  The  second  crop  is  often  the 
most  productive^     In  1810,  we  are  told  the  royal  tables 


THE  ORANGE  TRIBE.  355 

were  supplied  with  more  than  200  baskets  of  figs,  50  of 
■which  were  from  the  first  crop,  and  150  from  the  second. 
It  is  seldom,  however,  that  a  separate  house  is  erected- 
for  this  fruit.  The  fig  succeeds  very  well  as  a  dwarf 
standard  between  the  front  fluos  of  a  vinery,  provided 
the  roof  be  not  too  closely  covered  with  the  foliage  of 
the  vines.  '  Of  late,  small  standard  figs  have  very  com- 
monly been  grown  in  large  pots,  folirteen  or'- fifteen 
inches  iix  diameter,  and  placed  in  any  of  the_^forcing- 
houses.  In  this  way-considerable. crops  of  fruit  have 
been  raised.  The  Figue  blanche  and  the  ^farseilles  are 
the  sorts  considered  best  adapted  for  forcing. 

The  Orange  Tribe  (Citrus)  are  cultivated  in  Britain,- 
rather  as  objects  of  curiosity  and  beauty  than  for  the 
purpose  of  afi"ording  a  supply  of  fruit.  Commerce  with 
Portugal,,  Spain,  Italy,- and  China,  has  brought  this 
class  of  fruits  -^Yithin  the  reach  of  every  one  ;  and  the 
copious  importations  which  annually  take  place  have 
no -doubt  discouraged  the  cultivation  of  the  plants.  A 
few  orange-trees  are  nevertheless  to  be  met  with  in  most 
collections,  and  in  large  and  sump.tuous  gardens  it  is 
not  uncommon  to  meet  avith  glazed  houses  specially  set 
apart  for  their  reception. 

The  following  brief  notices  of  some  of  the  cultivated 
species  of  tho-genus 'Citrus  are  derived  principally  from 
Mr.  Gf  Don's  General  System- of  Botany  and  Garden- 
ingy  a  work  evincing  singular  accuracy  and  unwearied 
research,,  and  from- Mr  Ri.sso'a  excellent  paper  in  the 
Annales  .dii  3Iuseum,  vol.  xx. 

O.  3Ie4{ca,  the  Citi^on,  the  Ccdrate  of  the  Italians,  is 
a  small  evergreen  tree.  The  fruit  is  large,  of  an  oval 
form,  and  covered  with  a  rough  skin  or  rind,  which  is 


356  FORCING  GARDEN. 

charged  with  a,  highly  fragrant  oil.  The  citron  is  ge- 
nerally used  in  confections.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  na- 
tive of  Media^  and  will  scarcely  ripen  without  protec- 
tion in,  Britain.  Three  subvarieties  of  citrt>n  are  de- 
scribed by  Risso. 

Q,  Limetta,  the  Siveet  Lime. — This  is  rather  a  tall 
tree,  with  diverging  branches.  The  flower  is  of  a  fine 
white  color,  composed  of  five  oblong  petals.  The  fruit 
is  globose,  with  a  black  nipple-like  protuberance  at  the 
apex;  it  has  a  firm  rind,  and  sweet  pulp,  and  the  color 
is  pale  yellow.  The  lime  i&  a  native  of  Asia,  but  culti- 
vated in  Italy.     Seven  varieties  have  been  described. 

C.  Limonumy  the  Lemon. — -The  petioles  of  theleaves 
somewhat  winged  ;  fruit  oblong,  with  a  thin  rind  adher- 
ing closely  to-,  the  very  acid  pulp.  This,  like  the  pre- 
ceding, is  a  native  of  Asia,  but  is  cultivated  in  the  south 
of  Europe.     There  are  numerous  varieties. 

Q.  Aurantium^  Stveet  Orange. — The  petioles  almost 
naked ;  fruit  globose,  with  a  thin  rind  aiid  sweet  pulp. 
Risso  has  enumerated  nineteen  varieties ;  of  which  the 
principal  are,  the  China,  the  Portugal,  and  the  Maltese. 
The  last  has  a  blood-colored  pulp,  with  rich  juice,  and  is 
no\V^  much  in  request.  The  Tangerine,  orange  may  be 
cultivated  successfully  in  a  coipmon  flower-pot,  produc- 
ing fruit  of  delicious  quality  for  the  dessert. 

'O,  Bigarda,  Seville  ov  Bitter  Orange^  the  most  hardy 
of  the  trib'e.  The  petioles  winged ;  fruit  globose,  with 
a  thin  rind,  and  bitter  juice.-  This  sort  is  employed  for 
making  marmalade,  and  is  also  used  in  medicine. 
Twelve  varieties  have  been  described. 

0.  Decumana,  the  Shaddoelc. — The  petioles  broad, 
with  cordate  wings ;  fruit  large,  round,  weighing  from 
ten  to  fourteen  ppunds,  with  a.  thick  rind.     This  fruit 


THE  ORANGE  TRIBE.  357 

was  carried  by  Captain  Shaddock  from  China  to  the  Bri- 
tish ^Yest  Indies,  where  it  first  acquired  the  name  which 
it  here  bears.  It  is  now  cultivated  not  only  in  the  West 
India  Islands,  but  extensively  in  South  America; 
Four  sorts  are  enumerated.  Of  all  the  Citrus  tribe, 
this  has  the  most  beautiful  foliage,  and  it  is  therefore 
not  improperly  selected  for  filling  the  back  wall  of  a 
vinery.  -^ 

The  Orangery^  in  England,  seldom  difi^ers  in  form, 
even  where  it  is  a  separate  structure,  from  that  of  the 
green-house.  Most  commonly,  the  few  orange  plants 
which  are  kept  are  grown  in  large  pots.  Or  in  tubs  or 
boxes,  and  occupy  a  place  with  other  exotics  on  the  green- 
house shelves.  .  When  the  trees  are  of  considerable  size, 
the  bQxes  or  square  tubs  are  so  constructed  that  they 
can  be  partially  taken  to  pieces  without  materially  dis- 
turbing the  roots  of  the  plants  ;  and  the  soil  can  then  be 
renewed  or  meliorated  on  the  different  sides  at  success- 
ive periods.  Of  late,  such  tubs  have  been  constructed 
of  large  slates ;  these  have  an  elegant  appearance,  and 
they  are  equally  convenient,  the  sides  being  removable 
as  in  the  wooden  structures.  At  some  places,  the  orange^ 
trees  are  planted  in  conservatories  erected  for  the  pur- 
pose. In  the  neighborhood  of  Paris,  the  orangeries  are 
little  better  than  dark  sheds,  in  which  the  trees  are  kept 
protect'ed  during  the  winter  months,  light  and  air  being 
given  only  when  the  weather  permits.  At  AYoodhall,  in 
Lanarkshire,  they  wore  trained  again&t  trell-ises,  under 
glass,  and  in  this  way  produced  abundant  crops  of  fine 
fruit.  We  have  there  seen  a  plant  of  the  St.  Michael's 
orange,  twenty-four  feet  wide  and  eighteen  feet  high, 
clothed  with  fruit. 

Middle-sized  plants  are  frequently  imported  from  the 
31 


358  FORCING  GARDEN. 

Italian  nursery  gardens,  and  this,  is  the  readiest  way  of 
procuring  large  specimens  at  a  cheap  rate.  The  plants 
are  closely  packed  in  boxes,  -with  SQme- grass  or  moss 
around  the  roots.  Upon  their  arrival  they  are  in  a 
withered  and  dead-like  state,  and  require  considerable 
care  and  management  to  recover  them  from  the  effects 
of  the  voyage.  When  propagated  in  this  country,  they 
are  budded  on  citron  or  Seville  orange  stocks  ;  the  for- 
mer recommended'  by  Miller  as  preferable.  The  seeds 
of  the  stocks  are  sown  in  pots,  and  the  growth -of  the 
seedlings  is  aided,  during  the  first  and  second  summer, 
by  the  application  of  slight  bottom-heat  in  a  hotbed 
frame.  These  are  usually  budded  in  August.  The  late 
Mr.  Henderson,  gardener  at  Woodhall,  used  to  graft  his 
trees,  employing  cions  formed  of  the  wood  of  the  second 
year.  He  also  propagated  by  cuttings,  considering  this 
the  quickest  mode  of  obtaining  plants.  We  may  add 
that  this  most  successful  cultivator  of,  the  oran-ge  tribe 
made  it  a  rule  to  keep  his  trees  rather  cool,  and  with 
plenty  of  air  in  mild  weather,  till  the  fruit  was  fairly 
set;  after  which  he  found  that  he  could  apply  .more  heat 
without  the  risk  of  the  fruit  failing. 

The  orange-tree  prospers  in  a  rich,  fresh,  and  rather 
strong  soil ;  and,  in  this  country,  it  is  the  practice  to  mix 
with  it  a  considerable  portion  of  well-rotted  manure. 
When  grown  in  pots  or  boxes,  the  plant  should  be  shifted, 
and  the  earth  partly  renewed,  every  spring..  In  summer, 
copious  waterings  are  given,  and  the  leaves  aro  syringed 
once  or  twice  a  weok.  The  heads  are  kept  thin,  and 
any  branches  which  inconveniently  cross  each  other 
are  removed.  When  planted  against  trellises,  they  are 
trained  in  the  fan  form ;  and  in  laying  in  the-  shoots. 


THE  PINE-APPLE.  359 

allowance  is  to  be  made,  for  the  size  of  the  leaves  in 
the  different  species. 

The  Pine-Apple  [Bromelia  Ananas  L.  or  Ananassa 
sativa)  is  comparatrvely  of  recent  introduction  into  Bri- 
tain. It  was  nearly  unknown  to  English  horticulturists 
in  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century ;  for  Thbresby, 
the  Leeds  antiquary,  kept  a  leaf  of  the  pine-apple  in 
his  museum  as  a  curiosity.  It  is  now  largely  and  success- 
fully cultivated  in  all  the  principal  gardens  in  Britain. 
Its  culture  requires  all  the  ingenuity,  judgment,  and 
watchfulness  of  the  skillful  and  diligent  horticulturist ; 
and  we  shall,  therefore,  treat  of  it  at  considerable 
length.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  general  resem- 
blance of  its  fruit  to  a  large  cone  of  a  pine-tree.  The 
fruit  is  a  kind  of  pulpy  strobilus,  formed  of  coadunate 
berries,  and  crowned  at  top' with  a  tuft  of  small  pointed 
leavesl  The  flavor  of  the  pulp,  is  of  the  most  exquisite 
kiml.  The  plant  is  herbaceous,  and  the  fruit-stem, 
w^hich  generally  appears  in  the  second  or  .third  year^  is 
surrounded  wi'th  long  serrated  leaves,  resembling  those 
of  some  species  of  aloe.  The  fruit  grown  in  Britian  is 
considered  equal  in  all  good  qualities,  and  generally 
superior  in  size,  to  that  reared  in  tropical  countries. 
The  Lond.  Ilortic.  Catalogue  enumerates  06  varieties : 
"of  these  the  following  may  be  deemed  most  worthy  of 
notice. 

The  Queen  Pine  is  very  generally  cultivated.  Its 
fruit  is  of  a  cylindrical  or  tankard  shape,  of  a  yellowish 
color  inclining  to  orjingo,  and  sometimes  weighs  three 
pounds ;  it  is,  at  the  same  time,  of  fine  flavor.  This 
kind  produces  with  greater  certainty  than  most  others, 
and  the  fruit'may  be  easily  ripened  in  fifteen  or  eighteen 


360  FORCING  GARDEN. 

months  from  the  planting  of  the  crown  or  offset.  It 
is  therefore  the  most  useful  of  all  the  pines.  A  sub- 
variety  called  Ripley''s  Queen  is  also  excellent. 

The  Blach  Antigua  has  leaves  armed  with  large 
spines : '  the  flowers  are  purple ;  the  fruit  cylindrical, 
averaging  five  pounds  weight.  It  should  be  cut  a  little 
before  it  be  quite  ripe. 

The  Black  Jamaica,  or  Old  Jamaica.— In  this  variety 
the  spines  on  the  leaves  are  small ;  the  flowers  purple ; 
the  fruit  oblong,  averaging  about  four  pounds.  This  is 
an  excellent  kind,  and  is  considered  the  best  sort  for 
fruiting  during  the  winter  months.' 

The  JSfeio  Jamaica  is  rather  an  inferior  kind,  but  is 
pretty  good  when  ripened  ip  the  summer  time. 

The  Brown-leaved  Sugar-loaf  is  a  capital  black  va- 
riety ;  and  the  Enville  a  &howy  and  useful  pine,  with 
large  flat  pips,  and  thd  fruit  often  attaining  a  consider- 
able size. 

The  St:  Vincent's,  or,,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the 
O-reen  Olive,  has  middle-sized  spines,  purple  flowers, 
and  pyramidal  frujt,  which  average  about  two  pounds 
and  a  half.     It  succeeds  well  as  a  winter  fruit. 

The  White  Providence  has  small  spines,  dark  purple 
flowers,  and  oblong  fruit  of  a  large  size,  averaging,  when 
well  grown,  seven  pounds  weight,  and.  sometimes  ex- 
ceeding twelve  .pounds.  The  color  of  the  fruit  is  at 
first  brownish-gray,  but  at  ripening  it  becomes  of  a  pale 
yellow.  ■  The  pulp  is  yellow,  melting,  and  abounds  with 
quick  lively  juice,  but  not  equal  in  flavor  to  some  of 
the  other  kinds. 

The  Trinidad  is  remarkable  for  the  great  size  of  its 
fruit,  which  is  said  to  attain  sometimes  to  the  weight 
of  twenty-six  pounds.     Its  average  is  stated  in  the  Hort. 


THE  PINE-APPLE.  361 

Cat.  to  be  twelve  pounds;  but  we  have  never  seen  it 
above  half  that  weight.  The  spines  are  middle-sized, 
the  flowers  lilac,  and  the  fruit  pyramidal.  Apart  from 
its  magnitude,  it  is,  like  the  preceding,  only  a  secondary 
fruit. 

The  following  may. also  be  named  as  good  sorts: 
Bagot's  Seedling,  Russian  Globe,  Green  King  with 
smooth  leaves,  Striped  Queen,  Sierra  Leone,  Brown 
Sugar-loaf,  and  Orange  Sugar-loaf.  And  three  or  four 
more,  though  of  inferior  quality,  may  be  noticed  for 
their  beauty  or  curiosity,  viz.,  the  Blood-red,  Otaheite, 
Scarlet,  Welbeck  Seedling,  and  the  Havana,'  the  fruit 
of  which  last  keeps  long,  and  has  sometimes  been  suc- 
cessfully imported.into  this  country  from  Cuba. 
:  Structure  for  gvoiving  Pine-apples. — The  pine-apple 
has  generally  been  found  to  require  cultivation  for  two 
or  throe  years  b'efore  it  perfects  its  fruit ;  its  culture  has, 
in  consequetice,  been  divided  into  three  periods — pro- 
pagation, successional  preparation,  and  fruiting ;  and 
each  of  these  periods  has  its  corresponding,  structure, 
viz;,  the  nursing-pit,  the  succession-house  or  pit,  and  the 
fruiting-house. 

The  nursing-pit  has  occasionally  assumed  a  great 
variety  of  forms,  respecting  which,  however,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  go  into  minute  detail.  For  summer  use,  a 
large  glazed  frame,  placed  upon  a  hotbed  of  stable  lit- 
ter and  tanners'  bark,  is  perhaps  the  best  hitherto  de- 
visexl.  "The  Alderston -Melon-pit,  and  Atkinson's  Mel- 
on'-pit,  described  under  the  head  JStelonry,  are  likewise 
very  suitable  for  this  purpose.  In  winter,,  it  is  desira- 
ble to  have  the  assistance  of  fir^Theat,  eithei:  from  flues, 
or,  what  is  better,  from  hot  water;  though  this  fire-heat 
is  not  intlispen sable, 

81* 


362 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


40. 


The  succession-pit  performs  the  same  functions  as  the 
nursing-pit,  but  at  a  more  advanced  stage  of  the  growth 
of  the  plant,  and  consequently  requires  an  increase  of 
size.  With  this  difference,  At- 
kinson's Melon-pit  does  very 
well  for  summer  use.  In  colder 
seasons,  we  should  prefer  a  pit 
similar  to  that  represented  on 
the  margin ;  in  which  a  hot-wa- 
ter apparatus  on  the  siphon 
principle  is  employed  to  heat 
the  atmosphere  of  the  pits,  and 
the  bottom-heat  is  communicat- 
ed by  the  circulation  of  hot  wa- 
ter from  the  same  boiler,  in  open 
troughs  resting  on  the  bottom  of 
.  the  pit.  The  boiler  a  is  placed 
nearly  on  a  level  with  the  bot- 
tom of  the  pit.  5,  Pipes,  on  the 
siphon  principle  for  warming 
the  air  of  the  pit.  CC,  Troughs 
for  communicating  the  bottom- 
heat-,  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pit  on  a  level  with  the  boiler. 
The  water  is  drawn  from  the 
boiler  to  the  ends  of  the  troughs 
d  d  by  small  movable  siphons, 
which  promote  its  ciiX5ulation. 
The  bed  j?^  in  which  the  plants  are  plunge-d,  is  supported 
by, a  framework  of  woo<:l,  resting-  on  brick  piers  between 
the  troughs.  A  ]x)iler  placed  in  the  centre  is  sufficient 
for  a -range  of  sixty  feet.  Pits  sueh  as  these  have  been 
in  successful  operation  for  the  last  two  years  in  the  gar- 


PINE-APPLE.  863 

dens  of  the  Earl  of  Ilopetoun,  and  were  designed  by 
Mr.  Charles  H.  J.  Smith,  landscape  gardener  and  gar- 
den architect,  of  whose  assistance  the  writer  of  this  trea- 
tise has  had  muclr  satisfaction  in  availing  himself,  in 
the  designing  of  the  illustrative-  sketches  and  diagrams. 
Mr.  Smith  also  proposes  another  form  of  a  succession- 
pit,  exhibited  below,  -entirely  heated  hj  hot  water.    The 

Fig.  41. 


surface-heat  is  supplied  by  pipes  in  front ;  the  bottom- 
heat  is  kept  up  by  small  pipes  from  the  boiler,  passing 
through  cisterns  of  water  extending  the  whole  length  of 
the  pit.  In  this  case  it  would  be  necessary  to  apply  the 
heat  only  during  the  day.  The  anly  succession-house, 
or, that  generally  in  use  till  wil:hin  the  last  fifteen  years, 
does  not  differ  materially  from  the  common  pine-stove : 
but,  owing  to  its  great  waste  of  heat,  it  either  is  or 
ought  to  be  entirely  laid  aside. 

In  tliG  fru{tmr/-7ionse, 'moY&  room,  greater  hciglit,  and 
,a  more  powerful  temperature,  are  requisite ;  and  to  at- 
tain these  objects,  many  varieties  of  structure  have'been 
devised.  We  s-hall  notice  those  only  which  are'  most 
worthy  of  attention.  The  first  w^e  shall  mention  is 
BaldwiYi's  fruiting-pit,  of  which  a  section  Ls  given  on  the 
next  page.  ■  The  roof  is  iiner|ually  ridged,  the  nortli  or 
shorter  side  being  skxted  and  furnish-od  with  vc'ntilators, 
to  admit  air.  The  sashcS  are  immovable,  and  the  hips 
of  the  panes  are  closely  puttied.     There  is  a  path  with- 


364 


FORCING  GARDEN, 
Fi-   42. 


in,  and  a  single  turn  of  a  flue  behind.  We  should  pre- 
fer the  following  form,  in  whidi  there  are  ventilators,  a 
a,  and  a  hot-water  apparatus  surrounding  the  whole  pit. 

Fis.  43. 


The  dimensions  of  this  may^be  fifty  feet  long,  and  nine 
feet  wide-;  the  glass  being  two  feet  and  a  half  from  the 
curb  of-the-bark-pi-t  in  front,  and  five  feet  behind.  We 
next  present 'a  section  of 'a  pine-pit  with  a  curvilinear 


44. 


PINE-APPLE — BOTTOM-IIEAT. 


365 


roof,  in  whieh  the  astragals  are  parallel.  A  segment  of 
an  elliptical  arch  somewhat  less  than  a  quadrant,  the 
origin  of  the  curve  being  on  the  front  wall,  seems  bet- 
ter adapted  for  a  pit  than  any  portion  of  a  circle.  This 
pit  is  supposed  to  be  heated  by  a  small  steam-pipe  pass- 
ing through  a  large  iron  tank  or  cistern  a,  filled  with 
water,  on  the  same  principle  as  exhibited  in  the  figure 
at  page  321. 

The  old-fashioned  pine-stove  was  a  lofty  structure, 
in  the  vinery  form,  with  front  sashes.  It  used  to  be 
forty  or  fifty  feet  long,  an'd  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  broad, 
and  was  commanded  by  two  flues.  In  addition,  to  the 
pine-plants  in  the  pit,  the  roof  was  also  partly  covered 
with  vines,  a  practice  justly  condemned  by  the  late  Mr. 
Nicol  in  his  "Forcing  Gardener.''  "VYe  are  also  dis- 
posed to  agree  with  that  experienced  writer  regarding 

r 

Fi:?.  45. 


the  disuse,  of  the  pine-stove  itself.  Besides  other  griev- 
ous faults,  a  single  house  affords  too  little  room;  and 
it  is  a  matter  of  experience  that,  where  the  stock  of 
pine-plants  is  not  extensive,  certain  and  abundant  crops 
of  fruit  cannot  be  expected.  Instead,  therefore,  of  a 
succession   and   fruitjng-house   of   the   old   form,   with 


366  FORCING  GARDEN. 

two  fires  each,  it  would  b«  better  to  have  four  pits  with 
single  fires.  There  might  be  two  succession-pits  of  the 
forms  represented,  sup^a^  pages  362,  363,  and  two  fruit- 
ing-pits  similar  to  the  figures  on  page  364.  These 
would  contain  a  much  greater  number  of  plants  than 
two  pine-stoves,  would  be  little  more  expensive  in  erec- 
tion, and,  as  the  number  of  fires  is  the  same,  would  not 
consume  much  more  fuel. 

Bottom-Heat. — As  a  substitute  for  the  warmth  ab- 
sorbed by  the  earth  from  the  powoi^ful  rays  of  the  sun 
in  tropical  countries,  the  pots  of  pine-plants  are  gene- 
rally plunged  in  a  bed  composed  of  tanners'  bark,  de- 
caying leaves,  or  other  fermenting  substances.  Tan- 
ners' bark  is  most  commonly  used.  Speechly  and 
Nicol  prefer  leaves  shed  by  hardwo-od  trees  in  autumn. 
Others  form  the  under'  and  greater  part  of  the  bed  with 
stable-litter.  Whatever  substance  is  employed,  it  should 
not  be  put  into  the  bed  until  the  first  violent  heat  of 
fermentation  havje  passed;  or,  if  circumstances  impose 
a  necessity  of  using  it  in  a  recent  state,  it  should  be 
largely  mixed  with  old  materials  of  the  same  kind.  A 
layer  of  exhausted  bark,  ten  or  twelve  inches  thick, 
should 'be  laid  on  the  surface  of  the  bed.  In  pine- 
stoves,  the  curb  of  the  bark-pit  is  usually  elevated 
about  three  feet  above  the  common  level  of  the  house, 
and  has  a  gentle  slope  towards  the  front ;  in  pine-pits, 
however,  it  approaches  more  cl-osely  to  the. glass.  The 
bark  is  commonly  five  or  six  feet  deep ;  but  it  may  be 
questioned  whether  this  depth  is  not  excessive  and  un- 
necessary. A  bed  about  three  and  a  half  feet  deep 
would  probably  be  more  convenient,  and  afford  a  heat 
sufiicient  both  in  intensity  and  duration  for  any  useful 
purpose. 


PINE-APPLE — BOTTOM-HEAT. 


367 


We  have  already  shown  how  a  system  of  tubes  trans- 
mitting steam  or  hot  water  may  be  made  available  for 
the  production  of  bottom-heat.  There  is  another  me- 
thod worthy  of  at  least  a  cursory  notice.  Its  invention 
is  due  to  Mr.  M'Murtrie,  and  it  will  be  understood  by 
the  section  and  plan  given  in  the  following  figures. 

Fig.  AG.  . 


A  shallow  bark-bed,  about  two  feet  deep,  rests  upon 


368  FORcma  garden. 

an  arched  chamber  of  single  brick.  1  is  the  fire-place; 
2,  a;  fire-flue  running  along  the  whole  length-  of  the 
chamber  4,  which  is  also  kept  full  of  steam  by  means 
of  the  boiler  and  pipe  3;  the  aperture  5  admits  steam 
and  heat  into  the  air  of  the  pit,  and  of  these  there  is 
one,  both  in  back  and  front,  under  each  sash,  capable 
of  being  stopped  at  pleasure.  The  waste--pipe  6  allows 
the  steam  to  escape,  when  the  apertures  marked  5  are 
shut.  By  the  return  of  the  flue  2,  the  atmosphere  of 
the  house  is  heated;  and  by  the  joint  action  of  the  in- 
closed part  of  the  flue,  and  of  the  steam  in  the  chamber, 
an  abundant  and  salubrious  bottom-heat  is  easily  main- 
tained. 

The  proper  management  of  bottom-heat  is  a  matter 
of  some  difficulty,  and  in  this  there  have  been  more 
failures  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  pine-apple  cul- 
ture. The  heat  arising  from  violent  fermentation  is 
greater  than  the  tender  roots  can  bear,  and,  if  all 
watchfulness  be  not  employed,  the  labor  of  many 
months  may  be  blasted  in  a  single  day.  Mr,  Knight 
discarded  bottom-heat  altogether;  but  he  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  convincing  others  that  pine-appleS  could  be 
grown  equally  well  without  it.  Bottom-heat  is,  how- 
ever, very  generally,  kept  too  high.  Perhaps  the 
upper  limit  of  its  temperature  rnay  be  fixed  at  blood- 
heat,  or  at  most  100°,  while  the  under  or  winter  limit 
may  be  brought  down  to  70°  or  75°.  Gardeners  are 
accustomed  to  judge  of  the  heat  of  the  bed  by  means  of 
long  sticks  pushed  into  it;  these  are  occasionally  drawn 
out  and  felt  by  the  hand,  and  a  rough  guess  at  the 
temperature  is  thus  obtained.  A  far  preferable  me- 
thod is  to  employ  a  slow  thermometer,  slightly  cased 
in  wire,  to  protect  it  when  pushed  into  the  bed. 


PINE-APPLE — PROPAGATION. 

Soil. — Various  nice  and  minute  directions  have  been 
given  respecting  composts  for  pine-apple  plants.  Any 
compost,  however,  will  be  found  suitable,  which  is  at 
once  rich,  fresh,  and  simple.  Perhaps  a  mixture  of  the 
top-spit,  including  the  turf  of  an  old  pasture,  and  about 
a  half  of  good,  well-rotted  dung,  combines  these  quali- 
ties as  completely  as  possible.  When  it  is  necessary  to 
lighten  these  materials,  a  compost  of  decayed  leaves 
and  a  little  sand  may  be  added.  It  is  of  importance 
that  the  compost,  whatever  it  may  be,  should  be  pre- 
pared a  considerable  time  beforehand,  and  frequently 
turned  over.  It  should  be  broken  wi-th  the  spade,  but 
not  screened ;  and  when  used,  it  should  not  be  too  moist. 
Pine-apple  plants  are  found  to  show  fruit  more  readily 
in  a  rich  light  soil  than  in  strong  loam,  but  not  to  pro- 
duce such  large  fruit.  In  selecting  his  compost,  the 
cultivator  must  make  his  election  between  these  advan- 
tages. At  all  events  the  soil  must  be  rich ;  it  caa 
scarcely  be  too  rich.  "  The  pine,"  says  an  intelligent 
writer  in  the  Qardeners  3Iagazine,  vol.  ix.,  "  is  a  gross 
feeder,  and  will  thrive  in  vegetable  manure,  however 
rich  and  fresh."  Liquid  manures  have  been  applied; 
but  these,  however  useful  when  recent,  prove  deleterious 
in  a  fermented  state. 

Propagation. — In  the  cultivated  state,  the  fruit  of 
the  pine-apple  becomes  so  succulent  that  it  seldom  or 
never  forms  seed.  The  different  varieties  are  propa- 
gated hy  planting,  the  crowns  or  tufts  which  grow  oh 
the  fruit,  or  the  suckers  which  appear  at  the  base  of  the 
stem.  These,  when  removed  from  the  fruit  or  the  stem, 
are  laid  aside  for  a  few  days,  till  the  scar  at  the  place 
of  separation  have  dried  or  healed,  a  precaution  to  pre- 
vent their  rotting  ;  after  which  they  are  potted  imme- 
32 


370  FORCING  GARDEN. 

cliately.  Sometimes,  late  in  the  season,  they  are  merely 
thrust  into  exhausted  tan,  without  pots,  where  they 
remain  till  the  following  spring.  In  general  the  oif- 
sets  should  be  as  large  as  possible.  Speechly  did  not 
break  oiF  his  suckers  before  they  were  twelve  or  four- 
teen inches  long,  and  he  reserved  only  the  largest 
crowns.  These  large  suckers  and  crowns  grow  -with 
greater  rapidity,  and  come  sooner  into  fruit,  than  those 
of  smaller  size;  and  in  this,  in  truth,  consists  the  prin- 
cipal secret  of  what  has  been  called-  the  short  method 
of  culture,  by  which  fruit  is  obtained  in  a  much  briefer 
space  of  time  than  usual.  The  soil  employed  in  pro- 
pagation is  rather -lighter  than  that  afterwards  applied. 
The  pots  may  be  from  three  to  six  inches  in  diameter, 
and,  to  promote  draining,  shjould  contain  at  bottom  a 
layer  of  shivers  or  clean  graveL  For  some-  time  the 
plants  are  shaded  from  the  rays-  of  the  sun,  and  in 
about  eight  or  ten  days  they  receive  a  little  water. 
It  may  be  laid  down  as  an  important  general  rule,  in 
.the  culture  of  the  pine-apple,  that  the  progi-ess  of  the 
plant  sholild  be  carried  on  without  intermission — 
without  a  check,  without  allowing  it  to  flag  for  an 
hour.  As  already  stated,  the  older  and  more  common 
routine  of  pine-apple  culture  embraced  a  period  of  three 
years  ;  but  recent  improvements  have  reduced  these  to 
two  years,  or  even  to  eighteen  months.  This  has.  given 
rise  to  two  modes  of  preparatory  management,  which 
we  shall  notice  separately,  premising  that  the  treat- 
ment in  the  fruiting-house  is  the  same  in  both. 

Tynennidl  course. — The  plants  which  were  potted  in 
autumn  are  kept  in  the  nursing-pit  during  winter,  with 
a  mild  temperature,  slight  bottom-heat,  and  sparing 
allowance  of  -rt'ater.     About  the  beginning  of  April  they 


TRIENNIAL  COURSE.  371 

are  transferred  into  larger  pots,  and  are  commonly 
shifted  into  -hotbeds,  or  pits  heated  with  stable-dung, 
in  which  they  are  found  to  prosper  exceedingly.  Air  is 
given  every  day,  and  is  copiously  admitted  as  soon  as 
the  sun's  rays  have  acquired  considerable  power.  During 
summer,  the  average  morning  temperature  may  be  from 
70°  to  75°  Fahrenheit,  but  in  sunshine  it  may  be  allowed 
to  rise  to  85°,  90°,  or  even  more.  The  heat  is  main- 
tained by  adding  occasional,  linings  of  stable-litter, 
and  when  it  is  exhausted,  the  plants  are  transferred 
into  other  beds  or  pits,  more  recently  made  up,  and  in 
which  fermentation  is  going  on.  In  flued  nursing-pits, 
the  management  is  precisely  the  same.-  The  bottom- 
heat  is -aided  by  fresh  additions  of  tan*-  Asnotliing  is 
to  be  dreaded  from  damp,  where  there  is  a  command  of 
fire-heat,  more  copious  waterings  may  be  given,  and  the 
plants  may  be  syringed  overhead,  or  slightly  steamed, 
by  throwing  water  on, the  flues.  It  is  not  very  common 
to  shift  the  plants  in  the  nursery  during  summer;  but 
it  is  a  good  rule  to  have  recourse  to  that  operation  as 
often  as  the  roots  begin  to  mat  on  the  sides  of  the  pot. 
Before  the  end  of  autumn  the  young  plants  become 
vigorous.  The  lower  part  of  the  st;ilk  'Should  then  be 
thick,  the  centre  or  funnel  formed  by.  the  leaves  should 
be  upright,  open,  and  rather  short,  and  the  leaves  them- 
selves not  long  nor  very  numerous,  but  broad,  stiff,  suc- 
culent, .and  free  from  contortion  and  deformity.  To- 
wards the  end  of  autumn,  the  plants  arc  taken  into  the 
succession-pit,  which,  in  fact,  is  only  a  nursing-pit  on  a 
large  scale.  The  temperature  for  winter  should  be 
about  60°.  About  the  middle  of  March,  they  are  shifted 
into  pots  nine  or  ten  inches  in  diameter.  At  this 
period,  it  is  not   uncommon,   in  compliance  with   the 


372  FORCING  G-ARDEN. 

recommendation  of  Abercrombie  and  the  other  older 
authorities  to  cut  away  the  whole  of  the  roots,  and  to 
repot  the  plant  somcAvhat  in  the  capacity  of  a  sucker. 
The  reasons  alleged  for  this  extraordinary  practice  are, 
that  the  pine-apple  plant  is  continually  pushing  out  roots 
at  the  surface,  while  those  below  are  rapidly  dying  ;  that 
the  soil,  in  the  course  of  three  years,  becomes  completely 
exhausted  ;  and,  lastly,  that  this  treatment  prevents 
premature  starting  in  the  course  of  the  second  year. 
This  last  reason  is  very  questionable,  and  it  assumes 
that  pine-apple  plants  must  be  treated  for  three  years 
before  they  produce  fruit.  There  is  some  force  in  the 
other  reasons,  but  they  certainly  do  not  prove  the  ne- 
cessity of  the  practice.  Roots  may  be  pruned  without 
being  removed  altogether.  The  earth  may  be  shaken 
almost  entirely  away,  and  replaced  by  fresh  compost, 
at  the  expense  of  only  a  few  fibres.  Again,  if,  at  every 
shifting,  a  small  portion  of  the  earth  be  taken  from  be- 
low, as  florists  treat  auriculas  in  pots,  at  the  end  of  twa 
years  scarcely  any  portion  of  the  original  soil  will  re- 
main. The  grand  objection  to  the  operation  is  the 
great  and  unnecessary  check  to  vegetation,  and  the  con- 
sequent stuntedness  of  habit,  which,  in  succulent.plants 
of  such  an  age,  is  scarcely  remediable.  That  it  is  pos- 
sible successfully  to  cultivate  pine-apples  without  thus 
cutting  away  the  roots,  is  borne  out  by  the  testimony 
and  practice  of  Griffin,  Appleby,  and  other  distinguished 
cultivators.  When  the  roots  are  even  partially  removed, 
the  plants  must  be  shaded  for  some  time,  and  be  wa- 
tered sparingly,  till  they  begin  to  grow  freely.  The 
summer  temperature  should  be  comparatively  warm, 
the  range  being  from  65°  to  70°  of  fire-heat,  or  during 
night,  and  from  70°  to  85°  solar  heat.     Abundance  of 


PTNE-APPLE — BIENNIAL  COURSE.  3|3 

air  should  be  admitted,  and  the  plants  ought  to  be  set 
widely,  that  they  may  have  room  to  swell  below,  and 
become  stout  and  bushy. 

Bienyiial  Course. — The  method  of  culture  which  we 
have  denominated  the  biennial  course  was  first  brought 
into  notice  by  Abercrombie,  and  more  recently  has  been 
strenuously  recommended  by  Baldwin.  Its  chief  feature 
is  the  acceleration  of  the  growth  of  the  plants  by  the 
application  of  higher  temperatures  than  it  wa&  formerly 
supposed  they  would  flourish  in.  They  are,  in  fact, 
made  to  attain  the  growth  of  two  summers  in  the  course 
of  one  yeai'. 

About  the.  beginning  of  Marph,-  the  most  forward  of 
the  plants  potted  over  winter,  or  the  suckers  kept  iiv  tan, 
are  taken  out,  the  earth  or  tan  taken  away,  and  the  roots 
shortened.  Tljey -are  then  put  into  pots^about  five 
inches  in  diameter,  which  are  plunged  into  frames  or 
pits  heated  with  tan  or  stable-litter.  They  are  shaded 
as  usual,  and,  after  they  begin  to  grow,  receive  moderate 
waterings.  When  the  roots  appear  around  the  balls  of 
soil,  which  will  be  about  the  middle  of  June,  tlie  plants 
are  again  shifted  into  larger  pots  from  six  to  sevpn 
inches  in  diameter,  and,  if  the  heat  be  declining,  are  re- 
moved into  other-  pits  or  beds.  In  the  beginning  of 
August  they  are  transferred  into  large  pots,  in  which, 
unless  they  are  intended^ for  early  spring  forcing,  they 
stand  during  the  winter ;  and  in  February  they  are 
finally  shifted  into  pots  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  in  dia- 
meter. For  spring  forcing,  "the  last  shifting  takes  place 
in  October,  and  the  pots  may  be  two  inches  narrower. 
At  every  shifting  the  ball  <)f  earth  is  preserved  entire. 
From  March  the  temperature  is  gradually  increased ; 
little   air  is  admitted,  even  in  strong  sunshine,  and  a 

82* 


374  FORCING  GARDEN. 

lively  bottom-lieat  is  kept  up  by  means  of  repeated  lin- 
ings. When  there  is  danger  of  scorching  the  roots, 
the  pots  are  partially  drawn  up,  or  even  set  upon  the 
surface  of  the  tan.  The  following  table  will  give  an 
idea  of  the  temperature  (Fahrenheit's  thermometer)  and 
its  progressive  increase  : — 

During  Night.  During  Day. 

March G0°  to  70°  G0°  to     80° 

April 70  —  75  70  —     85 

May 75   —  80  90  —  100 

June 80  —  85  100  —  120^ 

After  the  beginning  of  July,  the  heat  is  allowed  to 
decline  by  degrees,  until  it  arrive  at  the  winter  tempe- 
rature of  60°.  It  is  to  be  understood,  however,  that 
these  temperatures  regard  only  stable-dung  or  tan  heat ; 
and  that,  too,  applied  to  crowns,  as  the-  larger  suckers 
seldom  require  more  than  100°.  When  foe-heat  is 
used,  and  it  should  always  be  through  the  medium  of 
hot  water,  the  nocturnal  temperature  should  only  ap- 
proach towards  80°  ;  and  there  should  be  some  expedi- 
ent for  the  sloiu  immission  of  steam  into  the  atmosphere 
of  the  pit.  During  the  whole  summer,  care  is  employed 
to  prevent  the  plants  from  being  draivn,  and  for  this 
purpose  they  are  allowed  much  space,  and  are  placed 
as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  In  August  and  Septem- 
ber a^bundance  of  air,  and  more  copious  supplies  of 
water,  are  given.  In  winter,  the  chief  care  is  to  pre= 
serve  the  roots  from  damping  off,  and  for  this  reason, 

*  These  temperatures  were  actually  maintained  in  the  pineries 
of  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Kensington  in  1825.  Our  authority 
(Mr.  Gowans,  now  gardener  at  Gadder  House,  and  a  most  sue-- 
cessful  horticulturist)  has  subsequently 'recommended  a  miti- 
gated scale. 


PINE-APPLE — FRUITIN-0-HOUSE.  375 

though  it  is  not  the  common  practice,  we  should  prefer 
winter  pits,  having  at  least  the  command  of  fire-heat. 

This  mode  of  driving^  as  it  has  been  significantly 
called,  is  applicable  chiefly  to  tlie  varieties  called  the 
Queen  and  Ripley's  New  Queen  ;  most  of  the  large 
growing  sorts  requiring  a  longer  period.  It  is  desirable, 
therefore,  that  both  courses  of  culture  should  be  carried 
on  at  the  same  time;  so  that  the  larger  varieties  may 
be  consigned  to  the  triennial  course,  while  the  vacan- 
cies in  either  may  be  made  up  from  the  other.  That 
this  is  practicable,  at  least  in  gardens  where  there  are 
two  fruiting-houses,  may  be  seen  from  the  tabular  com- 
pendium of  culture  given  at  p.  379. 

Fruiting -House. — About  the  beginning  of  August, 
the  plants,  now  two  years  old,  are  shifted  for  the  last 
time.  The  pots  are  from  twelve  to  fourteen  inches  in 
diameter,  and  the  balls  are  preserved  entire.  About 
eight  or  ten  days  previously,  the  bark-pit  of  the  fruit- 
ing-house  should  be  cleared  out,  the  old  tan  screened, 
if  necessary,  and  fresh  material  supplied.  The  pots 
are  then  plunged  into  the  bark  as  deeply  as  xjan  be 
done  with  safety,  and  'the  plants  are  so  treated  as  to 
keep  them  in  a  growing  state  during  the  whole  of  au- 
tumn. In  winter,  the  nocturnal  temperature  is  kept  at 
G0°  ;  but  towards  the  end  of  January  it  is  gradually 
raised  to  70°.  This  rise,  however,  should  follow,  and 
not  precede  or  be  a  cause  of  the  vernal  growth  of  the 
plants.  About  the  middle  of  February,  the  second 
fruiting-house  may  be  prepared  for  the  rccejition  of  the 
plants  in  the  biennial  suecession-pit.  These  are  exist- 
ing in  a  mild  temperature,  and  start  during  the  general 
progress  of  the  season. 

That   period  at  which  pine-apple  plants    first  show 


376  FORCING  GARDEN. 

their  fruit-stalks,  or,  as  it  is  technically  tcnirecl,  start, 
is  the  most  critical  in  their  whole  culture.  It  is  gene- 
rally desirable  that  this  should  happen  at  a  certain  age, 
and  at  a  particular  season;  but  these  are  circumstances 
over  which  the  cultivator  .can  scarcely  be  said  to  have 
a  direct  control,  and  accordingly,  while  the  most  suc- 
cessful can  hardly  deem  themselves  beyond  the  reach 
of  failure,  the  less  skillful  are  very  liable  to  err.  ^Ye 
are  not  aware  that  the.  rationale  of  starting  has  been 
investigated  on  the  principles  of  vegetable  physiology ; 
and  it  is  certain  that  the  most  absurd. practices  have 
been  resorted  to  in  order  to  force  the  plants  into  fruit. 
We  pretend  not  to  give  a  theory;  but  a  few  practical 
remarks  may  be  of  advantage.  It  is  evident,  then, 
that  the  plant  must  be  of  a  certain  age,  or  at  least  of 
a  certain  magnitude,  before  it  will  start  freely  or  to 
good  purpose.  Suckers  of  the.  first  year  exert  all  their 
energies  in  the  production  of  roots  and  foliage  ;  and  if 
any  of  them  happen  to  start,  they  exhibit  little  more 
than  a  tuft  of  leaves  where  the  fruit  should  be.  In  th-e 
second  year  a  Queen  pine  is  capable  of  producing  a 
perfect  fruit ;  and  in  the  third  year  the  New  Providence 
and  other  large  varieties  arrive  at  puberty.  The  solid 
part  of  the  stem  is  then  observed  to  have  increased  in 
bulk,  and  to  have  ascended  considerably,  above  the  soil. 
It  is  of  more  practical  importance,  however,  to  remark 
that  the  fruit-stalks  do  not  appear  until  the  pot  is  well 
filled  with  roots.  Apparent  exceptions  thepe  may  be  to 
this  rule;  but  in  every  case  where  it  does  not  hold  good, 
the  plant  will  be  found  to  be  diseased,  or  the  roots  to 
have  been  violently  destroyed.  The  grower  ^should 
therefore  take  care'  that  the  roots  shaH  have  nearly  oc- 
cupied all  the  new  soil  before  the  end  of  autumn,  and 


PINE-APPLE — FRUITING-nOUSE.  377 

tliat  in  the  course  of  the  winter  the  tender  fibres  be  not 
exsiccated  by  drought,  or  rotted  by  excessive  moisture. 
Again,  it  is  probable  that  at  starting  there  is  a  peculiar 
check  in  the  growth  of  the  plant,  which  causes  it  to  di- 
vert the  sap  from  the  formation  of  leaves,  and,'  like 
most  other  vegetables  in  straitened  circumstances,  to 
provide  the  means  of  reproduction,  by  throwing  out 
flower-buds.  This  diversion  of  the  sap  is  influenced  by 
the  quantity  of  vigorous  fibres,  for  it  is  observed  that 
when,  from  some  accident,  plants  not  well  furnished  in 
this  respect  do  show  fruit,  they  bestow  the  greater  part 
of  the  sap  upon  the  leaves.  Further,  it  is  not  a  mere 
suspension  of  vegetation,  otherwise  fruit  would  be  pro- 
duced by  every  plant  which  has  had  the  roots  cut  from 
it  in  the  manner  noticed  above.  Lastly,  it  is  probable 
that  the  proper  check  consists  in  a  transition  from 
growth,  however  slight,  to  a  temporary  suspension  of 
vegetation,  which  again  is  followed  by  a  copious  flow  of 
the  sap,  circumstances  which,  as  might  be  easily  shown, 
occur  both  in  the  winter  and  summer  starting.  If  these 
imperfect  observations  be  correct,  it  follows  that  start- 
ing is  a  natural  process,  requiring  certain  conditions 
in  the  state  of  the  plant,  and  therefore  not  to  be  forced 
by  violent  treatment,  or  any  sudden  changes  in  temper- 
ature and  watering. 

After  the  plants  have  shown  fruit,  they  are  never 
shifted ;  but  the  surfixce-soil  may  be  removed,  and  re- 
placed by  a  little  fresh  and  rich  compost.  Yfater  is  sup- 
plied from  time  to  time  as  necessity  requires  ;  but.it  is 
impossible  to-give  any  definite  rule  on  this  subject.  The 
observant  gardener  will  soon,  from  experience,  discover 
the  proper,  measure.  "Water  should  never  be  given  in  a 
colder  state  than  the  average  temperature  of  the  house  ; 


378  FDRCING  GARDEN. 

when,  therefore,  there  is  no  tank  within  the  house,  the 
watering-pots  should  be  filled,  and  left  in  the  house  for 
some  time  before  the  water  be  applied.  Fire-heat  is 
kept  up  either  continuously  or  a^t  intervals,  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  season.-  It  should  always  be  mode- 
rate, never  exceeding,  by  itself,  70°.  During  sunshine, 
the  temperature  may  range  from  70°  to  100°.  The 
greater  proportion  there  is  of  sun-heat  the  better.  Whilst 
the  fruit  is  swelling,  care  must  be  taken  to  carry  on  the 
growth  of  the  plant  with  equability  arnd  moderation. 
Violent  checks  are  pernicious  ;  they  debilitate  the  stalk, 
and  cause  a  stringiness  in  the  fruit.  As  the  fruit  ap- 
proaches maturity,  water  is  gradually  withheld,  lest  the 
flavor  should  be  injured.  Pine-apples  should  be  cut  a 
short  time  before  they'  attain  complete  maturity.  The 
larger  varieties  will  keep^ood  only  for  a  day  or  two  ; 
the  smaller  varieties  a  week  or  more. 

The  following  tabular  compendium  is  from  Aber- 
crombie,  altered,  however,  in  some  of  its  details,  to  suit 
the  idea  of  two  crops  a  year.  To  execute  this  plan, 
two  fruiting-houses  or  pits,  and  one  succession-pit, 
would  be  required,  together  with  a  -variety  of  hotbeds, 
or  pits  for  the  nursing  .department.  It  is  necessary  to 
premise,  that  crowns  and  suckers  are  usually  potted 
soon  after  they  are  taken  off,  and  that  August  15  may 
be  considered  the  date  at  which  the  whole  operations  of 
potting  should  be  finished.  When  there  is  only  a  bien- 
nial course,  it  commences  from  about  February  14, 


PINE-APPLE — FKUITING-HO  USE. 


379 


COxMPENDIUM  OF  THE  CULTURE. 


TRIENNIAL  COURSE. 


.  1S48. 
Aug.   15. 


1S49. 
Feb.   14. 


Aprrl    1. 


Nursing-Pit. 

Crowns  and  Suckers  of 
the  New  Providence 
and  other  large  vari- 
eties planted  ;  also 
small  crowns  ,  and 
suckers  of  the  Queen 
pine. 


BIENNIAL    COURSE. 


1848. 
Aug.  15. 


Nursing- Pit. 

Large  crowns  and  suck- 
ers of  the  Queen  pine 
planted. 


1S49. 
Feb.     14. 


July. 
Aug. 


1S50. 
Mar.    1. 


June   1. 


1850 
Aug.   15. 


Small  offsets  of  the 
Queen  pine  dibbled 
into  the  tan.  '      I 

The  above   potted  or  re-  .  Mar.  15 
potted  :     the    balls    of 
earth     preserved     en- 
tire. 

The  intermediate  shift- 
ing :  time  determined 
by  expediency.  June  15. 


Succe^ion-Pit. 

The  plants  from  the  nurs- 
irtg-house  are  shifted 
into  larger  pots :  the 
greater  part-  of  the 
earth  is  renewed,  and 
the  roots  pruned. 

Second  intermediate  shifl- 

Fruiting- House. 

Between  this  period  and 
September  15,  the 
plants,  after  having 
been  shifted  into  full- 
sized  pots,  are  intro- 
duced from  the  succes- 
sion-ptt. 


Aug.  1. 


1849. 
Oct.  1. 


1850. 
Feb.  15. 


Large  offsets  of  the 
Queen  pine  -  dibbled 
into  the  tan. 

The  above  potted  or  re- 
potted ;  the  earth  or 
tan  is  shaken  away, 
and  the  roots  pruned, 

'  the.  pots  transferred 
•in-to  hotbeds  or  pits. 

First  intermediate    shift- 
ing. 
Second  intermediate  shift- 
ing. 

Succession-Pit. 

Plants  introduced  from  the 
nursing-pit  ;  but  not 
shifted  unless  intend- 
ed for  early  spring 
forcing. 


Fr  mting-House. 

Plants  shifted  for  the  last 
•time,  and  introduced 
from  the  succession- 
pit. 


ISol. 
March. 

1851. 
June. 

Aug. 


The  surface  of  the  pots  ai^ 
top-dressed. 


Fruit    ripens,    and 
course  concludes. 


the 


1850. 
Sept. 
Dec. 


( Fruit    ripens,     and     th( 
(     course  concludes. 


380 


FORCING  GARDEN. 


The  MELONRY-^a  department  deriving  its  name  from 
the  melon,  the  principal  plant  cultivated  in  it— is  an 
important  appendage  of  the  forcing  garden.  After  no- 
ticing some  of  the  most  necessary  apparatus  employed 
in  it,  we  shall  treat  of  the  melon,  cucumber,  and  gourd, 
and  their  cultur-e  respectively. 

The  common  hothed  frame  is  most  usually  employed  ; 
and  it  is  so  well  knoAvn  as  scarcely  to  require  descrip- 
tion. It  is  a  rectangular  box,  with  sliding  sashes,  which 
may  be  single,  in  pairs,  or  in  threes.  The  length  of  the 
sash  is  generally  five  or  six  feet,  and  its  breadth  about 
three  feet  and  a  half.  The  back  of  tke  frame  is  about 
double  the  height  of  the  front,  it  being  intended  that 
the  slope  should  be  set  towards  the  south.  When  used, 
it-  is  placed  on  a  bed  of  fermenting  vegetable  matter, 
from  three  to  six  feet  in  thickness,  according  to  the 
purpose  to  which  it  is  to  be  applied,  or  the  severity  of 
the  season.  Stable-litter  is  the  fermenting  material 
most  commonly  employed ;  but  tree-leaves,  exhausted 
tanners'  bark,  or  flax-dressers'  refuse,  are  also  used. 
Tree-leaves,  when  moderately  dry  and  well  trodden,  are 
more  equable  in  their  fermenting  heat,  and  retain  it 
longer  than  the  ather  materials  mentioned.  If  a  layer, 
half  a  foot  thick,  of  bark  be  placed  over  a  bed  of  leaves 
five  feet  thick,  a  gentle  and  uniform  temperature  may 
be  commanded  for  several  successive  months. 

The  Alderston  Melon  Pit,  of  which  the  following  is 

Fi-    47. 


THE  MELONRY. 


381 


a  section,  is  partly  above  and  partly  below  ground.  The 
front  and  back  walls,  a  a,  are  of  brick,  supported  on 
piers  or  stone  pillars  ;  h  h  are  spaces  inclosed  witbin 
outer  walls,  and  covered  with  boards  to  contain  linings, 
which  communicate,  without,  any  object  intervening, 
with  the  fermenting  substances  in  the  interior  of  the  pit. 
These  spaces  may  be  two  feet  wide  :  the  interior  pit 
should  seldom  be  more  than  six  feet  in  breadth.  A 
principal  quality  of  this  structure  is  its  neatness  and 
cleanliness.     Caled.- Hortic,  Mem.^  vol.  ii.,  p.  217. 

West's  Melon  and  Cucumber  Pit  is  .also  built  of  brick. 
It  has  in  this-  figure  a  chamber  a  to  contain  the  dung ; 

Fia;.  48. 


h,  a  sq.uare  opening  by  which  the  dung  is  introduced ; 
c,  rafters  of  wood  or  cast-iron,  sustaining  the  interior 
soil;  d  d,  openings  to  permit  the  ascent  of  steam.  The 
walls  are  nine  inches  thick,  and  the  pit  may  be  seven 
feet  wide  inside  measure.  Lond,  Sort,  Trans.^  vol.  iv., 
p.  220. 

Atkinson's  Melon  Pit,  as  given  on  next  page,  is  a  brick 
structure.  The  back  wall  a  and  the  end  wall  are  four 
inches  thick,  built  in  the  pigeon-hole  fashion,  that  is,  with 
square  interstices  between  the  bricks.  The  front  wall 
h  is  double ;  the  interior  portion  is  brick  in  bed,  the  ex- 
terior brick  on  edge,  with  piers  under  each  rafter.  The 
included  space  communicates  with  the  inside  of  the 
33 


382  FORCING  GARDEN. 

bed  c.     The  pit  d  is  filled  with  fermenting  litter  or  tan- 
ners' bark;  e  e  are  spaces  for  linings.     This  pit,  ac- 

Fig,  49. 


cording  to  the  experience  of  the  Horticultural  Society 
of -London,  Ims  been  found  "far  superior  to  any  other 
yet  constructed.''  Tr^^/js.,  vol.  vi.,  p.  373.  Sometimes 
the  whole  is  formed  of  wood,  or  sometimes  only  the 
part  above  ground. 

The  extent  of  the"  melonry  must  depend  upon  the 
size  of  the  giirden,  and  the  amount  of  the  demand. 
Where  there  is  a  large  family,  and  especially  where 
pine-apples  are  cultivated  (to  the  forwarding  of  wdiich 
some  portion  of  the  melonry  may 'frequently  be  aux- 
iliary), sixty  or  seventy  sashes  may  be  considered  as  a 
moderate  coniplement. 

The  Melon  ( Cucumis  3IeIo)  has  long  been  cultivated 
in  Britain,  but  the  period  of  its  introduction'  and  its 
native  country  are  not  well  ascertained.  TJbe  plant  is 
a  tender  annual,  requiring  considerable  care  and  skill 
to  rear  it  in  perfection ;  but  it  repays  the  labors  of  the 
horticulturist  by  affording  a  large,  and  to  most  persons 
a  highly  palatable,  fruit.  The  varieties  are  numerous, 
and,  from  their  tendency  to  sport  or  Vary,  are  "rather 
fugitive  in  their  duration.  Many  of  the  old  favorites 
have  disappeared,  and  those  at  present  in  vogue  will 
doubtless  take  the  same  course,  or  will  at  least  assume 


THE  MELON-RY.  388 

new  forms,  -wEilo  they  retain  their  old  names.  In  these 
circumstances,  it  is  deemed  unnecessary  to  enter  into 
minute  description,  or  to  do  more  than  give  a  list  of  the 
sorts  at  preaent  best  deserving  of  cultivation.  It  may 
be  premised  that  they  all  belong  to  the  species  usually 
called  the  Musk  Melon.  The  Water  Melon  {Cueurhita 
Citrullus)  appertains  to  another  genus,  and  is  seldom 
reared  in  this  Country  except  as  a  curiosity. 

Early  Cantaloupe.  Green  Hoosainec  Persian. 

Scarlet-fleshed  Cantaloupe.  Golden  Kock. 

Beecliwood.  '  Silver  Eock. 

Smooth  Scarlet-fleshed-  CepUalonian. 

Duke  of  Bedford,  grecn-fleslied.     Kassaba,  green-fleshed. 

Green-fleshed  Egyptian.  Sweet  Melon-  of  Ispahan. 

Green-fleshed  Italian.  Winter  Grecian. 

It  is  important  that  no  seeds  but  such  as  have  been 
procured  from  approved  genuine  specimen's  of  the  seve- 
ral sorts  should  be  sown.  In  general,  the  fresher  or 
more  recent  that  garden  seeds  are,  the  better;  but  the 
case  is  different  with  the  melon.  Here  it  is  desirable 
that  the  seeds  should  have  been  kept  in  a  dry  state  for 
a  year  or  two :  for  it  is  found  that  plants  produced  from 
recent  seeds  push  too  vigorously,  sending  their  shoots  to 
a  great  length  before  they  show  fi  single  fruit ;  while 
those  from  old-  seeds  are  less  luxuriant  in  growth,  but 
more  fruitful. 

The  melon  succeeds  best  in  a  strong  rich  soil.  A  com- 
post, formed  of  two-thirds  of  rotted  turf,  and  one-third 
of  old  cow-dung,  will  be  found  very  suitable.  This 
should  be  prepared  for  a  year  at  least  before  it  be  em- 
ployed in  the  melon  frame.. 

There  are  generally  several,  perhaps  three,  succes- 
sive crops  of  melons  raised  in  large  gardens.     It  is  sel- 


384  FORCING  GARDEN. 

dom  expedient  to  sott  before,  the  middle  or  end  of 
January,  and  sometimes  it  is  soon  enough  a  month 
later.  A  seed-bed  capable  of  receiving  a  frame  with 
a  single  sash  is  previously  prepared.  This  bed.,  com- 
posed of  fermenting  stable-litter,  should  be  of  consider- 
able thickness,  perhaps  about  fiv-e  feet.  Immediately 
upon  its  formation,  the  frame  and  sash  are  placed  on 
it,  and  they  are  kept  close  till  the  heat  begin  to  rise, 
when  the  hot  vapor  is  permitted  to  escape.  Three  or 
four  days  after  the  bed  has  been  formed,  it  is  covered 
over  to  the  depth  of  three  inches  with  earth  prepared 
beforehand.  Rich,  light,  dry  earth,  is  best  adapted  for 
this  purpose ;  and,  that  it  may  be  dry  enough,  it  is  pro- 
per to  use  such  as  may  have  been  protected  from  rain 
during  winter.  A  few  small  flower-pots  are  filled  with 
the  same  earth,  and  *  kept  in  the  hotbed,  that  the  soil 
in  them  may  acquire  a  proper  temperature.  The  seeds 
are  then  sown  in  the  flower-pots,  and  covered  half  an 
inch  deep;  after  which  the  pots  are  plunged  a. little 
way  into  the  earth  of  the  bed. 

AVhen  hot  vapor  rises  copiously,  fresh  air  is  admit- 
ted by  raising  the  sash  a  little.  The  frame  is  covered 
every  evening  at  sunset  with  mats,  and  is  again  ex- 
posed in  the  morning  about  nine  o'clock,  sooner  or 
later,  according  to  the  state  of  the  weather.  A  single 
mat  is  sufficient  at  first,  as  the  heat  in  the  bed  is  gene- 
rally strong.  In  two  or  three  days  after  the  seed  has 
been  sown,  the  plants  appear,  when  the  glasses  are 
raised  a  little,  to  admit  fresh  air,  and  permit  the  escape 
of  vapor.  Unless  this  be  done,  the  plants  are  apt 
either  to  damp  off"  or  become  yellow  and  sickly.  To 
guard  against  the  casualties  of  the  season,  and  the 
chances  of  miscarriage,  it  is  proper  to  make  two  other 


THE  MELONRY.  385 

sowings  at  short  intervals,  so  that,  if  any  accident  be- 
fall the  first  plants,  the  others  may  supply  their  place. 
Two  or  three  days  after  the  plants  have  come  up,  they 
are  transplanted  into  other  small  pots,  only  two  or 
three  being  put  into  each  pot.  If  the  earth  be  very 
dry,  it  is  now  moistened  with  a  little  slightly  tepid 
water.  The  pots  are  then  plunged  into  the  earth,  and 
much  care  and  watchfulness  are  employed  to  prevent 
the  roots  from  being  scorched.  When  the  transplanted 
seedlings  begin  to  grow,  they'  are  watered  occasionally 
in  the  warmest  part  of  the  day.  As  the  heat  of  the 
hotbed  declines,  it  is  supported  by  linings  of  fermenting 
litter,  applied  from  time  to  time,  around  its  outer  sides. 
The  lining  should  not  exceed  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches 
in  thickness,  and  should  rise  above  the  level  of  the  bed 
upon  the  sides  of  the  frame. 

About  a  month  after  the  seeds  have  been  sown,  hot- 
beds or  pits  are  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  young 
plants.  For  the  first  crop,  it  is,  generally  found  that 
hotbeds  are  preferable.  These  are  formed  about  three 
feet  and  a  half  thick,  and  of  such  extent  as  to  receive 
several  frames  of  two  or  three  lights  each.  The  same 
precautions  with  respect  to  vapor,  and  other  matters 
connected  with  the  fermentation,  are  observed  as  in  the 
seed-bed.  When  the-  violence  of  the  heat  has  begun  to 
subside,  the  surface  of  the  bed  is  covered,  to  the  depth 
of  two.  inches,  with  dry,  light  earth;  and  under  the 
centre  of  each  sash  a  conical  heap  of- the  same  soil"  is 
formed  to  the  height  of  ten  inches.  By  the  following 
day,  the  earth  generally  acquires  a  sufficient  warmth, 
and. the  bed  is  ready  for  the  reception  of  the  plants. 
The  pots  containing  the  young  plants  should  be  well 
watered  the  day  previous  to  their  being  ridged  out,  to 

33* 


386  FORCING  GARDEN. 

make  the  ball  adhere  together,  and  come  out  of  the  pot 
entire.  After  the  tops  of  the  hillocks  of  earth  have  been 
flattened  a  little  in  the  centre  of  each,  a  hole  is  made 
capable  of  containing  one  of  the  balls  of  earth  which 
is  to  be  turiied  out  of  the  pots.  Some  of  the  pots  con- 
taining the  strongest  plants  are  selected,  and  the  young 
melon  plants  are  plunged  out,  with  balls  entire,  into 
the  ridges  or  hillocks  already  .mentioned.  After  this 
operation  has  been  performed,,  they  receive  a  gentle 
watering.  The  sashes  are  replaced,  and  for  some  time, 
unless  ;the  vapor  be  strong,  little  air  is  given.  Care  is 
taken  to  prevent  the  tender  fibres  from  being  scorched. 
When  the  roots  begin  to  show  themselves  through  the 
surface  of  the  hillocks,  a  quantity  of  fresh  earth  is  ap- 
plied all  around  them,  and  in  a  week  or  in  a  fortnight 
after,  the  whole  surface  of  the  bed  is  covered  nearly  as 
high  as  the  tdp  of  the  hills. 

"When  the  plants  have  got  two  or  three  of  their  rough 
or  perfect  leaves,  the  top  of  the  stalklet,  which  now  be- 
gins to  elangate,  is  pinched  off,  and  from  .the  axillae  of 
the  leaves  lateral  shoots  are  soon  shot  forth.  These 
are  fastened  down  with  pegs,  and  are  so  disposed  as 
regularly  to  cover  the  surface  of  the  bed..  These- late- 
rals will  sometimes  show  flowers  at  the  second  or  third 
joints;  if  they  do  not,  they  are  topped  in  their  turn, 
and  afford  other  laterals,  which  seldom  fail  to  be  fruit- 
ful. As  these  runners  advance,  they  are  trained  along 
the^  surface,  and  all  weak,  useless  shoots  are  removed. 
This  should  be  done  repeatedly  at  successive  intervals,- 
as  it  is  found  injunous-to  cut  out  a-  great  quantity  of 
shoots  and  foliage  at  one  time.  No  pjant,  as  has  been 
shown  by  Mr.  Knight  {Hortic.  Trans. ^  vol.  i.),  is  more 
beholden  to  its  leaves,  both  as  respects  health  and  fla- 


THE  MELONRY.  387 

vor  of  fruit,  than  the  melon.  In  cultivating  the  sweet 
melon  of  Ispahan,  that  excellent  cultivator  never  suf- 
fered laterai  shoots  or  blossoms  to  be  produced  at  a 
less  distance  from  the  root  than  the  fourteenth  or  fif- 
teenth joint,  or  more,  above  the  seed-leaves.  In  this 
way  the  expenditure  of  sap,  being  confined  ^  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  a 'single,  stem,  was  small  compared  with  the 
quantity  formed;  it  therefore  accumulated,  and  afforded 
greatly  increased  nourishment  to  the  fruit. 

It  is  seldom  proper  to  leave- more  than  ane^  melon  on 
each  shoot,  and  in  the  large  kinds  perhaps  not  more 
than  four  or  five  fruit  should  be  left  on  one  plant. 
When  the  melons  begin  to  swell,  a  slate  or  piece  of  tile 
is  laid  under  each,  to  separate  it  from  the  damp  soil  of 
the  bed.-  During  the  process  of  growth,  the  fruit  is 
usually  turned  once  a  week,  to  expose  all  sides  in  suc- 
cession to  the  rays  of  the  sun;  but,  in  turning,  care 
must  he  taken  not  to  -twist  the  foot-stalk,  as  this  would 
probably  destroy  the  fruit  altogether.  At  this  period 
water  is  given  with  moderation,  and  abundance  of  air 
is  admitted.  .  The  fruit  should  in  general  be  gathered 
before  it  be  fully  ripe.  Its  approaching  maturity  is 
known  by  the  appearance  of  a  number  of  cracks  near 
the  footstalk,  and  by  its  exhaling  a  rich  odor.  When 
ripe,  it  should  be  taken  ofi"  in  the  morning,  and  kept  in 
a  cool  place  till  served  up  ;  if  this  precaution  be  not 
attended  to,  there  will  be  a  considerable  deficiency 
of  flavor.  The  kind  called  Winter  Grecian  Melon 
is  described  by  Mr.  Lawson  {3Ianual,  p.  407)  as  pos- 
sessing the  desirable  property  of  keeping  good  for 
several  months,  if  suspended  in  a  fine  net,  in  a  cool, 
airy  room. 

The  average  heat  required  for  the  successful  growth 


388  EORCINQ  GARDEN. 

of  melons  is  about  70°  Fahrenheit,  In  the  common 
hotbed,  this  is  maintained  by  defending  the  bed  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  by  applying  linings  from  time  to. 
time.  In  pits. .  heated  by  hot-water  circulation,  this  is 
easily  effected  at  any  season ;  and  were  it'  not  that  the 
included  air  is  apt  to  become  too  dry,  especially  in 
winter,  when  much  heat  is  required,  such  pits  ought 
doubtless  to  supersede  the  hotbed  frame  altogether. 
At  present  the  old  methods,  partly  it  may  be  from  cus- 
tom, are.still  principally  employed.  It  'is  unnecessary 
to  give  minute  directions  respecting  the  management  of 
melons  in  pits  ;  as,  in  these,  the  mode  of  procedure  re- 
commended for  hotbeds  will,  with  some  trifling  varia- 
tions, also  prove  successful. 

The  Cucumber- (Owcwmi's  sativus)^  likes  the  melon,  is 
a  tender  annual,  requiring,  in  England,  the  assistance  of 
artificial  heat  to  bring  it  to  perfection.  It  properly  be- 
longs to  the  class  of  culinary  vegetables,  being  used  in 
salads  and  pickles."  It  has  long .  been  cultivated  in 
England,  where,  however,  its  culture  requires  the  closest 
attention  of  the  gardener.  The  sorts  commonly  grown 
are. 

The  Early  Frame.  Short  Green  Prickly. 

Syon  House.  Green  Turkey*. 

Long  Green  Prickly.         ^  Prize-fighter. 

Of  these,  the  long  and  short  prickly  are  well  suited  for 
ridges  in  the  open  air. 

The  culture  of  early  cucumbers  so  much  resembles 
that  of  the  melon  that  it  would  be  usele^ss  repetition  to 
enter  into  minute  details.  The  cucumber,  indeed,  is 
somewhat  the  hardier,  and  therefore  in  summer  requires 
less  heat ;  but  in  every  other  respect  the  management 


THE  CUCUMBER.  889 

of  the" plants  is  prebisely  the  same.  The  first  crop  of 
cucumbers  is  generally  sown  in  the  end  of  December, 
or  the  beginning  of  January  ;  a  second  in  March,  and 
a  third  in  June.  In  summer,  cucumber  plants,  after 
thoy  have  been  fairly  established,  require  scarcely  any 
other  attention  than  to  thin  them  out  occasionally,  and 
to  supply  them  with  water. 

Cucumbers,  particularly  the  prickly  sorts,  are  often 
raised  in  the  warmer  months  under  hand-glasses.  A 
cavity  is  mad^  in  a  border  in  front  of  a  wall  or  other 
warm  place,  and  is  filled  with  hot  dung.  This  dung  is 
covered  with  earth,  and  two  or  three  plants  are  put  into 
it,  and  sheltered  with  a  hand-glass.  They  are  watered 
and  dressed  from  time  to  time ;  and  by  this  means  a 
sufficient  supply  of  small  cucumbers,  or  girJsins,  is  ob- 
tained for  pickling. 

In  the  southern  counties  of  England,  pickling  cucum- 
bers are  easily  raised  without  any  artificial  heat,  being 
sown  in  drills  in  the  open  ground.  The  earth  is  made^ 
fine  and  level,  and  shallow  circular  hollows  are  formed 
with  the  hand,  a  foot  wide,  and  half  an  inch  deep  in 
the  middle.  The  distance  between  each  hollow  is  three 
feet  and  half,  and  the  distance  between  the  rows  iBve 
or  six  feet.  Eight  or  ten  seeds  are  deposited  in  each 
cavity.  This  is  done  in  the  beginning  of  June.  When 
the  plants  appear,  they  are  thinned  out  to  three  or  four, 
the  weakest  or  least  healthy  being  rejected.  They  are 
watered  occasionally,  according  to  the  state  of  the  wea- 
ther. The  cucumbers  are  not  expected  nor  wished  to 
attain  a  large  size  ;  they  are  gathered  chiefly  from  the 
middle  to  the  end  of  August.  Vast  quantities  of  these 
open-ground  girkins  are  taken  to  the  London  market. 
The  village  of  Sandy,  in  Bedfordshire,  has  been  known 


390  FORCING  GARDEN. 

to  furnish  10,000  bushels  of  drilled  cucumbers  in  one 
week.  Cucumbers  may  be  procured  in  a  hot-house 
during  the  winter  months.  For  this  purpose  the  seed- 
lings are  not  raised  till  the  month  of  August,  and  they 
are  prevented  from  expending  their  energies  in  the  pro- 
duction of  blossom  or  fruit  till  they  have  been  intro- 
duced into  the  stove.  Their  stems  -are  then  firm,  and, 
as  Mr.  Knight  remarks,  the  plants  possess  within  them- 
selves a  quantity  of  accumulated  sap. 

Gourds,  species  or  varieties  of  the  species  of  the 
genus  Cucurhita,  may  be  grown  like  drilled  cucumbers, 
or  trained  against  walls  or  on  pales.  Though  occasion- 
ally «eed  as  esculents,  they  are  regarded  chiefly  as  cu- 
riosities, the  fruit  of  some  kinds  being  very  ornamental. 
The  Succada  ( Qicader,  Cucurbita  ovifera),  or  vegetable 
marrow,  is  a  very  useful  sort,  _and  in  request  for  the 
table,  being  eaten  stewed  with  white  sauce  or  mashed 
like  turnips.  It  may  be  raised  in  an  exhausted  melon- 
frame 'or  pit;  or  it  may  be  sown  under  a  hand-glass, 
and  afterwards  transplanted  into  a  good  aspect,  and 
trained  against  a  wall  or  trellis.  The  tender  tops  of 
any  of  the  edible  Cucurbitacese,  boiled  as  greens  or 
spinach,  form  a  delicate  vegetable.  Melons  and  cucum- 
bers, though  requiring  for  their  cultivation  in  the  Eng- 
lish climate  the  protection  of  glass  and  walls,  together 
with  the  highest  degree  of  horticultural  skill,  to  bring  to 
a  maturity,  at  which  they  are  very  inferior  in  flavor,  ripen 
in  the  open  air  and  attain  great  perfection  under  the  burn- 
ing midsummer  sun  of  the  United  States,  especially  the 
midclle  and  southern  portions.  Information  relative  to 
the  various  kinds  and  best  modes  of  culture  will  Jbe  found 
among  the  subjects  included  in  the  Kitchen  Garden. 


THE  MUSHROOM.  391 

The  Mushroom  [Agaricas  campestris),  though-  not 
properly  an  inmate  of  the  melonry,  may  appropriately 
enough,  from  the  nature  of  its  culture,  be  taken  along 
with  the  plants  grown  in  this  department.  It  is  a 
well-Tcnown  fungus,  a  general  favorite,  and  esteemed  a 
delicacy  during  winter  and  the  spring  months. 

Mushrooms  used  to  1be  grown  in  ridges  or  prepared 
beds,  in  sheds,  or  covered  with  litter  in  the  open  air. 
Of  late  years,  the  Russian  form  of  the  mushroom-house 
has  been  introduced  into  Britain  by  Mr.  Isaac  Oldacre, 
and  is  now  in  very  general  use.  Its  arrangement  may 
be  Seen  by  inspecting  the  back  part  of  the  vinery,  a 
section  of  which  is  given  at  page  343.  Two  tiers  of 
boxes,  three  in  each  tier,  and  supported  by  a  strong 
framework,  are  constructed  round  the  whole  house, 
with  the  exception  of  the  spaces  occupied  by  a  door  and 
two  windows.  The  boxes  may  be  from  two  feet  and  a ' 
half  to  three  feet  and  a  half  broad,  and  about  a  foot 
deep.  The  house  is  supposed  to  be  heated  by  hot-water 
circulation.  In  the  centre  d  is  a,  narrow  pit,  by  which 
the  house  may  be  worked  by  means  of  fermenting  litter 
instead  of  the  hot  water,  or  in  which  rhubarb  stalks 
may  be  forced.  The  windows  are  furnished  with  shut- 
ters to  regulate  the  admission  of  light,  much  of  which 
is  not  wanted ;  and  they  are  movable,  to  permit  the 
ingress  of  air. 

Mushrooms  are  propargated  from  what  gardeners  call 
spawn,  and  botanists  mycelium,  being  a  collection  of 
matter  resembling  white  mouldiness,  crossed  with  vege- 
table th;'eads.  It  may  ha  obtained  from  old  pastures, 
the  floors  of  disused  stabTes,  decayed  mushroom  beds, 
or  purchased  from  nurserymen  in  the  form  of  bricks 
charged  with  spawn.     When  once   obtained,  it  may. 


392  FORCING  GARDEN. 

like  leaven,  be  indefinitely  multiplied-  and  preserved. 
If  not  to  be  otherwise  procured,  it  may  be  produced, 
or  apparently  generated,  by  placing  quantities  of  horse- 
dung  and  rich  loam  in  alternate  layers,  and  covering 
the  whole'  with  straw,  to  exclude  the  rain  and  air. 
Mushroom  spawn  commonly  appears  in  the  heap  in 
about  two  months  after  the  dung  and  earth  have  been 
laid  together.  The  almost  impalpable  seeds  seem  to 
adhere  to-  the  grass,  hay,  or  oats,  on  which  the  horse 
feeds,  and  to  resist  the  action  of  the  animal's  stomach. 
The. droppings  of  stall-fed  horses,  or  of  such  as  have 
been  kept  on  dry  food,  are  found  preferable  for  this 
purpose.  ^ 

The  old  method  of  growing  mushrooms  has  been  re- 
ferred to  above ;  and,  as  it  has  some  conveniences,  par- 
ticularly for  those  who  have  not  extensive  means,  it 
may  be  proper  to-  give  some  account  of  it.  Horse-drop- 
pings should  be  laid  out  from  the  stable  into  a  very  dry 
place,  as  free  from  straw  or  litter  as  possible.  There 
they  should  be  firmly  trampled  down  with  a  man's 
feet,  to  prevent  fermentation.""  -The  droppings  from  the 
horse-track  of  a  thrashing-machine  form  an  excellent 
material  in  the  spring  ^;ime ;.  for  there  the  droppings 
are  kept  dry,  aiid  are  thoroughly  trodden  by  the  horses' 
feet.  Beds  may  then  be  formed  two  or  three  feet  broad, 
and  of  any  length.  A  layer  of  the  droppings  about 
eight  or  ten  inches  thick  is  first  deposited,  and  covered 
with  loamy  earth  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches ; 
then  another  layer  of  droppings  of  the  same  thickness, 
covered  like  the  former ;  and,  lastly,  a  third  layer, 
with  its  covering.  The  whole  should  grow  narrower  as 
it  advances  in  height.  When  the  bed  is  finished  it  is 
covered  with  straw,  to  protect  it  fr9m  rain  and  from 


THE  MUSHROOM.  393 

the  parching  influences  of  the  sun  and  wind.  In  ten 
days  the  bed  will  be  ready,  for  planting  or  spawning. 
Pieces  of  spawn  bricks  are  then  inserted  in  the  sloping 
sides  of  the  bed,  about  four  or  five  inches  asunder.  A 
layer  of  loam  is  next  placed  over  th^  bed,  and  the  whole 
is  covered  with  a  thick  coat  of  straw.  When  the  weather 
is  temperate,  mushrooms  will  appear  in  about  -a  month 
after  tlie  bed  has  been  made  ;  but  at  other  times  a  much 
longer  period  may  elapse.  The  principal  things  to  be 
attended  to  are  to  preserve  a  moderate  state-  of  mois- 
ture and  a  proper  degree  of  warmth  ;  and  the  treat- 
ment at  different  seasons  must  vary  accordingly. 

Of  several  other  methods  of  raising  mushrooms,  Mr 
Oldacre's,  already  referred  to,  may  deserve  to  be  parti- 
cularized. In  forniing  the  compost,  he  procures  fresh 
short  dung  from  a, stable,  or  from  the  path  of  a  horse 
mill.  To  this  is  added  about  a  fifth  part  of  sheep-drop- 
pings, or  of  the  cleanings  of  a  cow-house,  or  of  a  mix- 
ture of  both.  The  whole  ingredients  are  thoroughly 
mixed  and  incorporated.  A  stratum  .of  the  prepared 
mixture,  about  three  inches  thick,  being  deposited  in 
the  boxes  already  described,  is  beat  together  with  a  flat 
wooden  mallet.  Another  layer  is-- added,  and  beat  as 
before;  and  this  is  repeated  till  the  bexls  be  rather  more 
than  half  a  foot  thick,  and  very  compact.  The  boxes 
are  then  placed  in  the  mushroom-house,  or  in  any  out- 
house where  a  slightly  increased  temperature  can  be 
commanded.  A  degree  of  fermentation  generally  takes 
place  ;  but  if  heat  be  not  soon  perceptible,  another  layer 
must  still  be  added,  till  suflicient  action  be  excited. 
When  the  beds  are  milk-warm,  or  between  80°  and  90° 
Fahrenheit,  some  holes  are  dibbled  in  the  mass  to  re- 
ceive the  spawn.  The  holes  arC'  left  open  for  some 
U 


394  FORCING  GARDEN. 

time;  and  when  the  heat  is  on-the  decline,  but  before 
it  be  quite  gone,  a  piece  of  spawn  brick  is  thrust  into 
each  opening,  and  the  holes  are  closed  with  a  .little 
compost.  A  week  afterwards,  the  boxes  are  covered 
with  a  smooth  coating,  two  inches  thick,  of  rich  loamy 
mould  mixed  with  about  a  fifth  part  of  horse-droppings. 
The  apartment  is  how  kept  as  nearly  and  as  equably  at 
55°  Fahrenheit  as  circumstances  will  allows  When  the 
boxes  become  dry,  a  little  soft  water  may  be  used,  but 
sparingly  and  with  circumspection,  and  instead  of  water- 
ing directly  on  the  'surface  of  the  bed,  it  is  better  to 
spread  some  hay  over  it,  and  to  sprinkle  the  hay.  The 
more  that  free  air  can  be  admitted,  the  flavor  of  the 
mushrooms  is  the  better ;  but  the  exclusion  of  frost  is 
indispensable.  If  a  number  of  boxes  have  been  pre- 
pared at  first,  a  few  only  at  a  time  may  be  covered 
with  mould  and  brought  into  bearing,  the  rest  being 
covered  and  cropped  in  succession,  as  mushrooms  may 
be  in  demand. 

Mr.  Edward  Callow,  in  a  tract  on  the  artificial  growth 
of  mushrooms,  describes  a  method  in  which  the  pits  are 
wrought  by  means  of  dung  heat.  His  structure  some- 
what resembles  Atkinson's  melon-pit,  only  the  roof  is 
covered  with  thatch,  and  a  suit  of  air-flues  is  formed 
within  the  interior  of  the  pit,  with  branches  crossing 
the  principal  bed  which  occupies  the  floor.  Linings  of 
fermenting  litter  are  applied  on  the  exterior  of  the  house 
at  the  back  and  front.  The  atmosphere  in  the  pit,  in 
the  earlier  stage,  is  kept  at  55°  to  65°  Fahrenheit,  and, 
when  the  bed  is  in  full  bearing,  about  70°.  The  other 
details  of  this  method  scarcely  differ  from  those  of  Mr. 
Oldacr-e's. 


CALENDAR 


The  instructions  given  in  the  following  calendar  are, 
of  course,  adapted  to  the  climate  of  Britain,  where  the 
cold  is  more  enduring  and  greater  in  the  average,  but 
not  so  excessive  as  that  usually  experienced  in  the 
winters'  of  the  United  States,  especially  those  of  the 
northern  and  middle  regions,  where  little  if  any  work 
can  be  done  in  the  open  air,  in  the  kitchen  or  flower 
gardens,  during  the  months  of  January  and  February. 
Now  and  then,  in  the  latter  month,  when  the  frost  may 
happen  to  leave  the  earth  for  a  brief  period,  the  plant- 
ing of  some  kinds  of  early  peas,  cabbages,  with  a  few 
others  of  the  more  early  vegetables,  may  be  effected.  In 
the  more  southerly  portions  of  the  Union,  many  of  the 
instructions  given  in  the  calendar  for  January  and 
February  may  be  followed  out,  whilst  those  adapted  to 
the  condition  of  things  in  the  hot  months  of  June  and 
July  would  require  much  greater  modification.  Seeing 
the  great  differences  presented  by  the  American  climate 
during  the  same  months  in  the  various  latitudes,  we 
have  chosen  to  give  the  English  Calendar  with  little  al- 
teration, trusting  to  the  good  common  sense  of  the 
American  gardeners  to  make  use  of  the  valuable  sug- 
gestions and  directions  which  it  contains,  Avith  such 
modifications  as  they  may  find  requisite  to  adapt  them 


6yb  CALENDAR — JANUARY. 

to  the  precise  seasons  and  circumstances,  as  these  exist 
in  their  several  localities. 


JANUARY. 

Kitchen  6^«rc?e??.— Trench  and  manure  borders  for 
early  crops.  Sow  early  frame  peas,  preferring  the 
white  Warwick  variety  and  early  Charlton  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  month,  and  Knight's  dwarf  marrowfat 
about  the  end  of  the  month ;  Marshall's  early  dwarf, 
early  mazagan,  and  long-pod  beans,  during  the  first  and 
last  weeks ;  a  few  onions,  early  horn  carrots,  and  round- 
leaved  spinach  for  early  crops,  on  very  light  soils ;  as 
also  curled  parsley,  if  not  done  in  August,  on  a  warm 
border;  short-topped  radish  in  two  or  three  sowings,  at 
a  week's  interval,  in  the  same  sit-uation. '  In  the  last 
fortnight  sow  black-seeded  gotte,  hardy  green  and 
brown  Dutch  lettuce. 

Plant  fruit-trees  in  general,  in  open  weather,  mulch- 
ing the  trees  to  protect  them  from  the  drought  which 
may  occur  in  'spring.     Plant  shallot  and  garlic. 

Prune  all  sorts  of  fruit-trees  in  mild  weather  or  in 
moderate  frosts,  nailing  only  in  fine  weather;  wash  those 
trees  infested  with  insects,  with  a  mixture  of  soap-suds, 
flowers  of  sulphur,  and  tobacco  liquor.* 

'■^  We  have  not  deemed  it  necessary  to  treat  separately  or  at 
length  of  the  means  of  destroying  insects  ;  many  of  the  nostrums 
recommended  proving  very  inefficient.  The  wash  here  mention- 
ed is  perhaps  the  best  and  simplest  for  the  stems. and  branches 
of  wall  fruit-trees.  Some  prefer  making  it  of  the  consistence  of 
paint,  and  laying  it  on  with  a  brush.  One  advice  we  would 
tender  to  all  gardeners — not  to  be  anxious  to  kill  the  smaller 
kinds  of  the  feathered  songsters,  the  soft-billed  warblers  of  the 


CALENDAR — JANUARY.  397 

Forcing  Department. — About  the  end  of  the  month, 
prepare  for  making  up  hotbeds  for  early  cucumbers 
and  melons,  at  least  where  a  pit  heated  with  hot  water 
is  not  in  use.  Sow  salads,  carrots,  and  kidney-beans 
on  slight  hotbeds.  Sow  peas  in  cold  frames  for  trans- 
planting.  Force  asparagus,  searkale,  and  rhubarb,  in 
hotbeds  in  pits,  in  the  mushroom-house,  or  in  the  open 
garden  by  covers  surrounded  with  litter.  Give  air  in 
fine  weather,  and  water  sparingly,  to  the  pinery  and 
cucumber  pit ;  and  to  other  forcing-houses  according 
to  the  progress  of  the  trees.  Attend  to  forced  kidney- 
beans  and 'strawberries.  Give  abundance  of  air  to  the 
green-house,  conservatory,  and  alpine  frame,  but  little 
water.  Continue  to  force  roses,  kalmias,  rhododen- 
drons, and  hardy  flowers  and  bulbs,  for  the  decoration 
of  the  green-house,  or  to  be  taken  into  the  lobby  or  the 
drawing-room.  Most  of  these  ought  to.  be  potted  and 
prepared  in  autumn. 

Floiver  G-arden.—V\^ni  dried  tubers  and  bulbs  of  bor- 
der flowers,  if  not  done  in  autumn  ;  but  the  planting  of 
the  roots  of  the  finer  florists'  flowers  ought  to  be  de- 
ferred till  next  month. 

Transplant  herbaceous  plants  and  evergreen  shrubs 

garden,  which  are  often  suspected  of  attacking  blossom  or  fruit 
when  they  are  only  picking  ofT  caterpillars  or  aphides,  their 
favorite  food.  Even  the  common  sparrow  and  the  blue  titmouse 
are  useful  in  destroying  the  larvae  of  the  moths  which  infest 
fruit-trees.  In  hot-houses,  the  keeping  of  the  walls  and  frame- 
work clean,  by  frequent  white-washing  and  paiAting,  is  very 
important;  and  much  benefit  results  from  occasionally  filling 
them  with  the  smoke  of  tobacco-paper,  and  then  thoroughly 
syringing  the  plants. 

34* 


398  ^        CALENDAR — FEBRUARY. 

in  light,  soils,  if  not  done  in  autumn  ;  also  deciduous 
trees,  shrubs,  and  h^ges.  Lay  edgings  in  fine  weather. 
Sow  mignonette,  stock,  and  other  annuals,  in  pots  ; 
sow  sweet  peas,  and  a  few  hardy  annuals,  on  a  warm 
border.  Give  stage  auriculas  and  carnations  abundance 
of  air  ;  but  keep  them  rather  dry,  to  prevent  damping 
off. 

FEBRUARY. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Continue  to  trench  and  manure 
the  quarters  for  early  crops.  Sow  beans  and  peas  in 
the  beginning  and  also  at  the  end  of  the  mofith  ;  a  few 
early  cabbages,  to  replace  the  last  sowing  in  August  ; 
red  cabbages  and  savoys  in  the  last  week.  Sow  also 
early  horn  carrot :  Dutch  turnip  ;  onions  for  a  full  crop 
in  light  soils,"with  a  few  Scotch  leeks.  Sow  chervil,  fen- 
nel, and  lettuce  for  succession,  with  radishes  and  round- 
leaved  spinach,  twice  in  the  course  of  the  month  •  small 
salads  every  fortnight. 

Plant  Jerusalem  artichokes,  .garlic,  horse-radish,  and 
early  potatoes  ;  in  the  last  week,  a  full  crop  of  early 
cabbages  on  light  soil.  All  sorts  of  fruit-trees  may 
still  be  planted  ;  strawberries  about  the  end  of  the 
month.  Transplant  fo-r  seed,  if  not  done  before,  all  the 
brassica  tribe,  including  cabbage,  cauliflower,  turnip, 
■  &c.  ;  also  Carrots,  onions,  beet,  celery,  endive,  leeks, 
and  parsnips.  Transplant  to  the  bottom  of  the  south- 
aspected  wall  a  few  of  the  peas  sown  in  November  for 
the  first  crop. 

Prune  apricots,  peaches,  nectarines,  and  plums,  before 
the  buds  be  much  swelled;  also  apples,  pears,  cherries, 
gooseberries,  currants,  and  raspberries,  before  the  end 
of  the  month.     Finish  the  dressing  of  vines.    Keep  the 


CALENDAR — FEBRUARY.  399 

fruit-room  free  from  spoiled  fruit,  and  now  shut  it  close, 
admitting  as  little  air  as  possible. 

Forcing  Department. — Piant  out  melons  and  cucum- 
bers on  hotbeds  and  in  pits,  sowing  more  for  succession. 
Sow  carrots,  turnips,  and  early  celery ;  cauliflower  to  be 
afterwards  planted  out.  Sow  tetragonia  or  New  Zea- 
land spinach  in  pots.  Plant  early  potatoes  on  slight 
hotbeds.  Continue  the  forcing  of  asparagus,  rhubarb, 
and  sea-kale.  Pine-apple  plants  require  little  air  or 
water  at  this  season,  except  young  plants  in  dung-frames, 
which  ought  to  be  kept  free  from  damp.  Shift  fruiting 
plants  by  the  middle  of  the  month,,  if  not  done  in  Au- 
gust. Continue  the  forcing  of  all  sorts  of  fruits.  Those 
who  have  not  commenced  sooner,  and  who  have  a  small 
establishment,  will  find  the  middle  or  end  of  this  month 
a  good  season  to  begin  the  forcing  of  vines  or  peaches. 
Be  careful  to  protect  the  stems  of  vines  that  are  outside 
of  the  forcing-houses. 

Let  the  green-.house  and  conservatory  havp  plenty  of 
air  in  mild  weather.  Pitt  in  an  extra  quantity,  if  not 
done  in  autumn,  of  cuttings  of  desirable  half-hardy 
green-house  genera  for  the  flower  garden ;  such  as  Pe- 
largonium, Fuchsia,  Salpiglossis,  Calceolaria,  Heliotro- 
pium.  Salvia,  Verbena,  Petunia,  Alonsoa,  Mimulus, 
Lobelia,  Maurandia,  Tropseolum,  Bouvardia,  Bodo- 
chiton,  Leptospermum,  Anagallis.  Many  species  and 
varieties  of  such  genera  are  of  great  beauty,  and  con- 
tribute most  essentially  to  the  rich  appearance  of  the 
flower  garden  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months. 
Sow  stocks,  a  few  tender  annuals  and  dahlia  seed,  on 
a  slight  hotbed  or  in  pots. 

Flower  Gax.den.  —  In  good  weather,  plant  dried 
roots,  including  most  of  the  finer  florists'  flowers;  con- 


400  CALENDAR — MARCH. 

tinue  the  transplanting  of  hardy  biennial  flowers,  and 
perennial  herbaceous  plants,  shrubs,  and  deciduous 
trees. 

Sow  in  tjie  last  week  mignonette,  and  several  species 
of  hardy  annuals,  in  a  warm  border  for  subsequent 
transplanting — particularly  Clarkia,  Collinsia^  Collo-- 
mia,  Eutoca,  Gillia,  Limnanthes,  Nemophila,  (Eno- 
thera. 


MARCH. 

Kitchen  Crarden, — This  is  a  busy  month.  Main 
crops  of  peas,  beans,  cabbages,  and  onions,  leeks,  car- 
rots, parsnips,  Brussels  spouts,  borecoles,  lettuces,  and 
spinach,  are  now  to  be  soAvn.  Where  space  is  rather 
limited,  some  of  the  crops,  especially  peas  and  bean-s, 
may  occupy  drills  four  or  five  feet  asunder,  so  as  to 
permit  the  interlining  of  savoys  or  broccoli  during  sum- 
mer. In  ^he  beginning,  and  also  in  the  end  of  the 
month,  sow  turnips  and  savoys.  In  the  last  fortnight, 
sow  asparagus,  cauliflower,  sea-kale,  couve  tronchuda, 
cardoons,  celery,  and  most  of  the  culinary  aromatics, 
as  dill,  fennel,  parsley.  Small  salads,  such  as  cresses 
and  mustard,  should  be  sown  every  ten  days,  and  a  row 
of  chervil  at  the  end  of  the  month. 

Plant  early  potatoes  in  the  first  week,  and  a  main 
crop  during  the  last  fortnight ;  also  strawberries. 
Jerusalem  artichoke,  sea-kale,  asparagus,  and  peas 
raised  in  frames,  may  now  be  planted  out.  Full  crops 
of  cabbages  should  now  be  planted  out,  and  cauliflowers 
under  hand-glasses.  Propagate  by  slips  the  various 
pot-herbs,  as  mint,  sage,  savory,  tansy,  tarragon,  sor- 


CALENDAR — MARCH.  401 

rel.  Fork  over  th^  asparagus  bed,  avoiding  the  buds 
as  much  as  possible.  Transfer  tetragonia  seedlings 
into  single  pots. 

Fruit  G-arden. — -Finish  the  planting  and  pruning  of 
fruit-trees  before  the  middle  of  the  month.  Protect 
those  coming  into  blossom  with  the  various  coverings 
usually  employed,  or  by  giving  a  little  heat  to  flued 
walls.  Begin  grafting  in  the  third  week  ;  dig  and 
dress  between  the  row^s  of  gooseberries,  currants,  and 
other  fruit-trees,  if  not  already  done.  Kill  wasps  when 
they  first  appear,  for  the  death  of  every  individual  at 
this  period  is  equal  to'  the  destruction  of  a  colony  in 
autumn. 

Forcing  Gurden, — Proceed  with  the  forcing  of  melons 
and  cucumbers,  giving  air,  and  applying  linings  to 
maintain  the  proper  temperature.  Examine  pine-apple 
suckers  and  crowns,  potting  those  that  have  been  kept 
in  tan  during  the  winter  ;  repotting  those  that  require 
larger  pots,  and  dressing  the  roots  of  such  as  are  sickly, 
about  the  middle  of  the  month,  shift  to  the  succession- 
pit,  and  give  a  top-dressing  to  the  fruiting  plants;  turn 
the  tan,  and  add  new  bark  to  the  pits,  to  keepup  bot- 
tom-heat. In  the  vinery  and  peach-house,  attend  to  the 
keeping  down  of  insects  by  watering  ;  and  promote  the 
growth  of  the  young  shoots  by  steaming  in  the  evenings. 
Graft  vines  when  the  shoots  are  sprung  about  fifteen 
inches.  (See  page  118).  Sow  seeds  of  capsicum -and 
tomato  ;  ^also  tender  annuals  for  the  stove.  Sow  salads, 
early  horn  carrot,  and  early  Dutch  turnip  on  slight 
hotbeds  during  the  first  fortnight ;  as  also  celery  and 
cauliflower  for  transplanting.  Force  strawberries  and 
kidney-beans  ;  and  continue  the  forcing  of  roses,  rho- 
dodendron?, kalm-ias,  hardy>  flowers,  and  bulbs. 


402  CALENDAR — APRIL. 

Gree7i-house.—'^ioYQ  -water  may  be  given  than  for- 
merly. Sow  seeds  of  green-house  and  hot-house  plants; 
also  the  different  sorts  of  tender  annuals  ;  pot  off  those 
sown  last  month.  Shift  green-house  and  stove  plants  ; 
plant  tuberoses  in  pots  for  forcing  ;  remove  the  forced 
shrubs  and  plants,  as  they  come  into  flower,  from  the 
forcing-houses  to  the  conservatory  and  green-house  ; 
attend  to  the  alpine  and  auricula  frames.  Begin  to 
propagate  green-house  and  stove  plants  by  cuttings. 

Floiver  O-arden  and  Shruhhery. — In  the  last  week, 
sow  hardy  annuals  in  the  borders,  with  biennials  that 
flower  the  first  season ;  as  also  perennials.  Plant 
anemone  and  ranunculus  roots.  Transplant  from  the 
nursery  to  their  final  sites  annuals  sown  in  autumn, 
with  biennials  and  perennial  herbaceous  plants.  Pro- 
pagate perennials  from  root-slips  and  offsets.  Protect 
tulips,  hyacinths,  and  choice  flowers,  from  severe  wea- 
ther. In  the  last  week  put  into  heat  the  finer  sorts 
of  dahlias,  so  as  to  start  them,  and  prepare  them  for 
propagation  by  cuttings  and  by  division  of  the  roots. 
In  the  first  week  complete  the  planting  of  hardy  deci- 
duous trees  and  shrubs  ;  and  finish  the  planting  of 
evergreens  by  the  middle;  but  some  of  the  hardier  sorts 
may  still  be  planted  towards  the  end  of  the  month. 
Likewise  finish  the  pruning  of  all  deciduous  trees  and 
hedges  as  soon  as  possible.  Attend  to  the  dressing  of 
shrubberies,  laying  of  turf-edgings,  and  to  the  state  of 
gravel- walks. 


APRIL. 

Kitchen   Gf-arden. — Sow  main   crops    of  asparagus, 
sea-kale,  beet,  salsify,  scorzonera,  skirret,  carrots,  and 


CALENDAR — APRIL.  403 

onions,  on  heavy  soils ;  also  peas,  beans,  turnips,  spi- 
nach, celery,  cabbages,  savoys,  and  German  greens,  for 
succession.  Sow  broccoli  and  kidney-beans  both  in 
the  second  and  in  the  last  week  ;  cardoons  not  before 
the  end  of  the.  month.  Small  salads  should  be  sown 
twice  or  thrice  during  the  month  ;  also  sweet  herbs,  if 
not  sown  last  month. 

Plant  cauliflower,  cabbages,  artichokes,  sea-kale, 
lettuce  ;  and  finish  the  planting  of  the  main  crops  of 
potatoes,  and  also  of  strawberries.  Propagate  all  sorts 
of  pot-herbs,  and  sweet  herbs,  such  as  lavender,  mar- 
joram, hyssop,  balm,  and  pennyroyal.  Attend  to  the 
hoeing  and  thinning  of  spinach,  oni:ons,  turnips,  and 
carrots.  Earth  up  cabbages, -cauliflower,  peas,  beans, 
and  early  potatoes.  Stake  up  peas;  blanch  sea-kale 
and  rhubarb  in  the  open  air,  by  covering  with  straw 
or  leaves,  or  with  boxes  or  earthenware  covers.  If 
some  roots  of  scarlet-runners  and  of  Indian  cress  have 
been  preserved  over  winter  in  dry  sand,  free  from  frost, 
they  may  now  be  planted  out,  and  will  afi'ord  an  early 
show  of  flowers  and  crop  of  fruit. 

Fruit  Trees. — No  pruning  or  planting  ought  to  be 
left  unfinished  till  this  period;  stone-fruits,  in  particu- 
lar, are  much  injured  by  spring  pruning.  If  vines 
have  been  neglected,  rubbing  off"  the  buds  that  are  not 
wanted  is  now  safer  than  pruning.  Protect  blossoms 
of  the  finer  sorts  of  fruit-trees  on  the  walls. 

Forcing. — Continue  the  ^Preparation  of  succession 
beds  and  pits  for  cucumbers  and  melons,  xittend  par- 
ticularly to  the  cultivation  of  those  in  operation.  Sow 
gourds  and  basil.  ,  Pot  love-apples  and  capsicums.  At- 
tend' to  the  routine  culture  of  the  pinei-y,  giving  water 
and  air  when  necessary ;   keeping   up  the  bottom-heat 


404  CALENDAR — APRIL. 

with  linings  and  additions  of  new  tan.  In  forcing- 
houses,  from  the  variable  state  .  of  the  weather,  con- 
siderable vigilance  is  required  in  giving  air.  Keep  down 
red  spider  (acarus),  in  the  more  advanced  houses,  by  fre- 
quent syringings.  Continue"  the  usual  operations  of  dis- 
budding and  thinning  of  fruit,  and  take  care  to  keep  up 
the  proper  temperature.  As  the  weather  may  now  be 
expected  to  be  mild,  those  who  have  only  a  single  vinery, 
melon,  or  cucumber  frame,  will  find  the  beginning  or 
middle  of  this  month  a  proper  season  to  commence 
forcing  with  the  best  chance  of  success. 

(jfreen-house,  ^c. — Little  artificial  heat  will  be  m- 
quired  except  in  frosty  weather.  An  abundaijt  supply 
of  air  and  moisture  is  now  necessary.  -  The  gla&s  should 
be  kept  off  the  alpine  frames,  except  in  frosty  nights. 
Attend  to  the  protection  of  stage  auriculas  from  frost, 
as  the  flower-buds  are  easily  injured.  Sow  all  sorts  of 
tender  annuals.  Proceed  with 'all  necessary  shif  tings 
in  the  green-house  and  stove.  Remove  camellias,  when 
the  flowers  are  over,  to  the  stove  or  forcing-houses,  -as 
they  require  heat  to  make  them  form  healthy  shoots  and 
flower-buds  for  next  season.  Propagate  Chinese  chry- 
santhemums by  dividing  the  roots,  and  all  sorts  of  rare 
and  fine  plants,  by  cuttings  or.  by  grafting.  Pot  off 
tender  annuals  and  cuttings  of  half-hardy  green-house 
plants,  which  were  put  in  to  strike  in  the  autumn  or  in 
February,  for  the  use  of  the  flower-borders. 

Flower  Garden  and  Shruhhery. — Saw  main  o-r  succes- 
sion crops  of  annuals  of  all  sorts ;  half-hardy  annuals 
in  warm  borders,  or- on  slight  hotbeds.  Biennials  and 
perennials  should  be  sown  before  the  middleof  the  month. 
Plant  Tigridia  pavonia  and  fine  stalks.  .  Finish  •  the 
transplanting  of  herbaceous  perennials  by  the  end  of  the 


CALENDAR— MAY.  405 

first  week.  Protect  stage  auriculas  and  hyacinths  from 
extremes  of  every  description  of  ■  weather;  and  tulips 
from  hoarfrosts  and  heavy  rains.  Plant  out  tender  de- 
ciduous trees  and  shrubs  raised  in  pots.  Eemove  part 
of  the  coverings  of  all  tender  shrubs  and  plants  in  the 
first  week,  and  the  remainder  at  the  end  of  the  month. 
Form  and  repair  lawns  and  grass- walks  by  laying  turf 
and  sowing  perennial  grass-seeds. 


MAY. 

Kitclmi  Grcirden. — Sow  small  salads  every  week  ;  ra- 
dishes and  lettuces  thrice  during  the  month ;  spinach 
once  a  fortnight ;  carrots  and  onions  for  late  drawing  ; 
kidney-beans,  in  the  first  week  and  last  fortnight ;  peas 
and  beans,  cabbages,  Brussels  sprouts,  borecole,  broc- 
coli, savoys,  and  German  greens  for  late  crops.  The 
last  sowing  of  cauliflower  for  the  season  should  be  about 
the  20th.  Cardoons  may  be  sown  from  the  middle  to 
the  end  of  the  month.  Sow  pumpkins  and  cucumbers 
on  a  warm  border  in  the  last  w^ek.  Continue  the  va- 
rious operations  of  hoeing  and  earthing-up  the  different 
crops.  ^ 

Fruit-Trees. — Disbud  peaches,  nectarines,  and  other 
early  trees  against  the  walls  ;  also  attend  to  the  thin- 
ning of  fruit.  Give  occasional  washings  with  the  engine 
to  keep  down  insects.  A  little  brown  or  Scotch  snuiF 
dusted  over  the  trees  after  watering  will  efi'ectually  de- 
stroy green-fly.  pick  caterpillars  from  gooseberries 
and  wall-trees,  on  their  first  appearance.  Mulch,  if 
not  done  before,  all  new'ly-planted  fruit-trees,  watering 
abundantly  in  dry  weather.  Remove  from  raspberries 
35 


406  CALENDAR — MAY. 

and  strawberries  all  suckers  and  runners  that  are  not 
wanted. 

Forcing. — Attend  to  the  cultivation  of  the  melon  and 
cucumber  frames,  regulating  the  air,  heat,  moisture, 
and  shade,  according  to  the  state  of  the  plants  ;  keep- 
ing them  free  from  insects ;  thinning  and  training  the 
vines ;  also  ren'ewing  the  dung-linings  when  necessary. 
Continue  the  planting  of  fresh  beds,  raising  more  young 
plants  from  seeds  and  cutting  for  late  crops ;  the  cut- 
tings producing  less  luxuriant  but  more  fruitful  plants. 
Go  on  with  the  usual  culture  of  the  pinery ;  give  abun- 
dance of  heat  and  water,  and  try  to  keep  down  all  sorts 
of  insects.  The  grape-vines  and  peach-trees  will  re- 
quire attention,  according  to  the  progress  they  have 
made,  in  regulating  the  young  shoots,  thinning  the  fruit, 
and  tying  up  the  shoulders  of  such  clusters  of  grapes  as 
hang  loosely,  or  are  of  a  large  size.  Give  frequent  wash- 
ings with  the  engine  to  the  foliage,  and  a  good  supply 
of  water  to  the  borders ;  also  abundance  of  air.  "  Plant 
out  basil.  Plant  pumpkins  and  pickling  cucumbers,  un- 
der hand-glasses,  on  dung  ridges,  or  in  those  frames  that 
have  been  used  for  early  vegetables,  most  of  which  will 
be  cleared  off  by  the  third  or  last  week. 

Green-house,  ^-c. — Turn  out,  hardy  plants  about  the 
middle,  and  -the  more  tender  at  the  latter  end,  of  the 
month  ;  retaining  a  part  of  the  finest-  and  most  showy 
plants  for  the  decoration  of  the  green-house  during  the 
summer  and  autumn,  when  the  regular  inmates  are 
chiefly  placed  abroad  in  the  garden.  Sow  tender  an- 
nuals for  succession,  potting  and  shifting  those  sown  at 
an  earlier  period,  and  removing  them  from  the  frames 
to  the  green-house  or  conservatory  as  they  come  into 
flower.     Continue  to  propagate,  by  cuttings,  the  differ- 


CALENDAR — MAY.  407 

ent  kinds  of  plants  that  are  now  fit  for  that  purpose, 
potting  off  such  as  are  rooted.  Remove  stage  auriculas 
to  their  summer  quarters,  "in  some  shady  place  with  a 
north  exposure.  The  alpine  frame  will  require  little 
more  than  a  good  supply  of  water,  with'  occasional  shift- 
ings,  and  propagating  a  few  of  the  early  flowering 
plants.  Sow  soma  hardy  annuals,  and  ten- week  stalks, 
for  late  flowering.  Species  of  Petunia,  Tweedia,  Tro- 
p^eolum,  and  Anagallis  ;  with  Maurandia,  Rho'dochiton, 
and  Lophospermum,  may  bo  planted  as  climbers  against 
trellises  or  walls. 

Floiver  Garden. — Sow  annuals  for  succession  ;  bien- 
nials in  the  last  week,  in  the  nursery  compartment,  for 
planting  out  next  year.     Propagate  by  cuttings,  dahlias, 
pansies,  double   wall-flowers,  rockets,   scarlet   lychnis, 
and  lobelias,  by  dividing  the  roots.     Plant   out,  during 
the  first  week,  dahlias,  hardy  pelargoniums,  stocks,  cal- 
ceolarias, and  half-hardy  annuals,  protecting  them  from 
slight  frosts.      By  the  middle  and  end  of  the  month, 
masses  of  such  plants  as  the  following  may  be  formed 
with  safety :    Pelargonium,  various  species  and  varie- 
ties, Heliotropium,  Fuchsia,  Salpiglossis,  Nierembergia, 
Salvia,  Verbena,  Bouvardia,  Erica,  Lobelia.      Protect 
tulips,   ranunculuses,  and  anemones  from    the  midday 
sun,  from  rain,  and  winds.     Remove  the  coverings  from 
all  tender  plants  in  the  open  air  ;  tying  up  plants  where 
necessary  ;  clearing  the  walks,  borders,  and  cutting  the 
grass  every  ten  days  ;  for  much  of  the  beauty  of  a  flow- 
er garden  is  lost  if  attention  be  not  given  to  these  ope- 
rations. 

Shrubher.i/. —'Plani'mg  out  of  tender  evergreens  from 
pots  may  be  continued,  but  any  other  kind  of  trans- 
planting will  be  carried  on  at  considerable   risk,  except 


408  CALENDAR — JUNE. 

in  very  moist  and  cloudy  weather.  Proceed  with  the 
laying  down  of  lawns  and  gravel-walks,  keeping  the 
grass  short,  and  the  borders  and  walks  free  from  weeds. 


JUNE. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Sow  peas  and  beans  for  late 
crops.  The  kinds  used  for  early  crops  are  likewise  best 
for  this  purpose.  Sow  salading  every  ten  days ;  also 
carrots  and  onions  for  drawing  young.  In  the  begin- 
ning-of  the  month,  sow  endive  for  an  early  crop.  In 
the  first  w^ek,  sow  cardoons  and  turnips  for  succession; 
and,  in  the  third  week,  for  a  full  autumn  crop.  Sow 
scarlet  and  white  runners  for  a  late  crop  ;  and,  in  the 
"middle  of  the  month,  early  cabbages,  to  be  used  as 
coleworts. 

Plant  full  crops  of  broccoli,  Brussels  sprouts,  savoys, 
German  greens,  and  leeks ;  ridge  out  early  celery,  and 
successional  crops  of  cabbage  and  cauliflower.  In  the 
first  fortnight  of  the  -month,  put  out  cucumber  plants, 
in  a  warm  border,  placing  hand-glasses  over  them ;  these 
will  afibrd  small  cucumbers  for  pickling.  Draw  and 
st'ore  winter  onions. 

Fruit  Trees. — Attend  particularly  to  the  training  and 
pruning  of  the  summer  shoots  of  all  descriptions  of 
wall  and  trellis  trees.  Standards  do  not  require  this, 
except  those  that  are  trained  en  fijramide  or  en  que- 
nouille.  Mulch  and  water  fruit-trees  and  strawberries 
in  dry  weather,  desisting  from  watering  as  soon  as  the 
fruit  begins  to  ripen.  Net  over  cherry-trees,  to  protect 
the  fruit  from  birds.  Destroy  insects  by  frequent  wash- 
ings and  directing  tobacco-smoke  against  them,  or  by 
strewing  snuff  (the  fine  powder  of  tobacco)  over  them. 


CALENDAR— JUNE.  409 

In  the  first  weeji,  plant  out  love-apples  in  vacant  spaces 
along  the  bottom  of  a  south  wall. 

Forcing. — Proceed  "with  planting  melons  and  cucum- 
bers raised  from  seeds  and  cutting?,  for  late  crops.  Keep 
up,  by  linings,  the  necessary  temperature  for  ripening  of 
the  fruit.  Continue  the  cultivation  of  the  pinery  stated 
for  last  month ;  but,  if  you  wish  very  large-sized  fruit, 
and  do  not  care  about  preserving  suckers,  remove  the 
whole  suckers  from  the  stems  and  roots,  and  apply  heat 
and  water  in  abundance.  Shift  suckers  and  succession- 
plants  in  the  beginning  and  middle  of  the  month,  as  the 
state  of  the  plants  may  require. 

Vines  and  Peaches,  ^fe.,  may  have  the  same  treat- 
ment as  stated  last  month.  Little  water  and  a  good 
deal  of  air  must  be  given  to  those  houses  where  the  fruit 
is  beginning  to  ripen.  Those  in  which  the  fruit  is  past 
ought  to  be  constantly  under  a  system  of  thorough  ven- 
tilation. 

The  Green-Jioiise  will  now  be  occupied  with  tender 
green-house  plants  and  annuals,  and  the  more  hardy 
plants  from  the  stove,  for  here  these  last  will  remain 
longer  in  flower.  Shift,  repot,  and  propagate  all  fine 
plants,  perennials,  biennials,  or  annuals,  and  cuttings 
of  all  sorts  that  are  desirable.  Sow  fragrant  or  showy 
annuals,  to  flower  in  pots  during  w^in4;er. 

Flmver  G-arden. — Take  up  bulbs  and  tuberous  roots, 
and  dry  them  in  the  shade  before  you  remove  them  to 
the  store-room.  Fill  up  with  annuals. and  green-house 
plants  those  beds  from  which  the  bulbs  and  roots  have 
been  raised.  After  this  season,  keep  always  a  reserve 
of  annuals  in  pots,  or  planted  on  beds  or  thin  layers 
of  well-rotted  hotbed  dung,  from  which  they  are  easily 
removed  with  balls,  to  fill  up  nny  blanks  which  may 


410  CALENDAE — JULY. 

occur  in  the  borders  or  parterre.  Sow  perennials,  if 
neglected  last  month,  to  be  planted  out  in  spring.  Lay 
and  pipe  carnations  and  pinks  in  the  end  of  the  month. 
Pay  particular  attention  to  the  staking  and  tying  up  of 
every  plant  that  requires  it,  especially  young  dahlias, 
as  they  are  easily  destroyed  by  high  winds ;  in  dry 
weather  water  abundantly,  as  many  plants  are  much 
improved  by  it,  especially  dahlias.  Attend  to  the  dress- 
ing and  cleaning  of  borders  and  walks,  and  the  mow- 
ing of  grass  lawns. 


JULY.  - 

Kitchen  G-arden. — Sow  peas  weekly  till  after  the 
middle  of  the  month,  when  the  last  crop  for  the  season 
may  be  put  in.  In  the  last  week,  sow  yellow  turnip 
for  a  full  winter  crop,  and  spinach  for  an  early  winter 
crop ;  endive,  for  autumn  and  winter  crops,  in  the  be- 
ginning and  end  of  the  month ;  also  successional  crops 
of  lettuce  and  small  salads.  Early  cabbages  for  cole- 
worts  should  be  sown  in  the  first  week. 

Plant  full  crops  of  celery  and  celeriac  about  the 
middle  and  end  of  the  month;  late  crops  of  broccoli, 
cauliflower,  and  coleworts,  in  the  last  week.  Gather 
and  dry  medical  and  pot  herbs;  also  propagate  such 
by  slips  and  cuttings. 

Friiit-Trees. — Continue  the  summer  pruning  and 
training  of  all  wall  and  espalier-rail  trees,  with  the  de- 
struction of  insects.  All  heavy  or  over-abundant  crops 
of  fruit  ought  to  be  thinned,  as  otherwise  not  only  are 
the  size  and  quality  of  the  fruit  deteriorated,  but  the 
trees  exhausted  and  injured.  Plant  strawberries  in 
pots,  for  forcing  nexf  winter.     Propagate  different  sorts 


CALENDAR — JULY.  411 

of  fine  fruit-trees  bj  budding  on  other  trees,  or  on  pre- 
pared stocks. 

Forcing. — Attend  to  the  pruning  of  melons  and  cu- 
cumbers, giving  air  and  water,  renewing  linings,  &c. 
Go  on  with  the  usual  cultivation  of  the  pinery,  but 
withhold  water  from  the  plants  when  the  fruit  begins 
to  ripen.  Have  the  old  plants  with  suckers  on  them 
put  into  a  brisk  bottom-heat,  giving  proper  supplies  of 
water;  this  will  increase  their  size  very  much,  and 
materially  shorten  the  period  of  their  coming  into  fruit. 
The  forcing-houses  ought  to  have  the  same  treatment 
as  stated  for  last  month. 

In  the  Gf-reen-Jiouse,  little  alteration  will  take  place 
in  the  culture  and  management  from  that  given  for 
last  month;  necessary  attention  being 'paid  to  potting, 
shifting,  and  putting  in  cuttings,  and  giving  abundance 
of  water  to  the  potted  plants,  both  in  the  house  and 
Out  of  doors. 

Flotver-  Garden  and  STiruhhery. — Take  up  the  re- 
mainder of  tuberous  roots,  such  as  anemone  and  ra- 
nunculus; finishing  by  the  end  of  the  first  week;  fill 
up  their  places,  and  any  vacancies  that' may  have  oc- 
curred, with  annuals  from  the  reserve  ground.  Pro- 
pagate all  the  finer  herbaceous  plants  that  have  gone 
out  of  flower, >by  means  of  cuttings  and  slips;  also  se- 
lect roses  and  American  shrubs,  by  layering,  budding, 
or  cuttings.  Go  on  with  the  laying,  piping,  and  strik- 
ing of  carnations,  pinks,  pansies,  and  the  different  va- 
rieties of  superennial  plants,  as  Sweet-William,  pink, 
catchfly,  double  rocket,  and  douhle  wallflower,  in  hand- 
glasses, or  in  shaded  situations.  Attend  to  the  staking 
and  tying  up  of  dahlias  and  strong  herbaceous  plants. 


412  CALENDAR — AUGUST. 

Great  attention  must  now  be  paid  to  cleaning  in  every 
department,  weeds  springing  up  after  every  shower. 


AUGUST. 

In  the  Kitchen  Garden,  sow  winter  and  spring  spi- 
nach in  the  beginning  and  about  the  middle  of  the 
month ;  parsely  and  winter  onions,  for  a  full  crop  in 
the  first  week ;  cabbages,  cauliflower,  savoys,  and  Ger- 
man greens,  about  the  middle  of  the  morith,  for  plant- 
ing out  in  spring;  lettuce  in  the  first  and  last  week; 
small  salads  occasionally;  black  Spanish,  red  and  white 
queen  radish,  for  winter  crops. 

Plant  and  earth  up  celery  and  endive.  Plant  &traw- 
berries.     A  few  coleworts  many  still  be  put  in. 

Fruit  Garden. — Proceed  in  the  training  and  regu- 
lation of  summer  shoots  of  all  fruit-trees,  as  directed 
for  the  last  three  months.  Attend  to  the  thinning  of 
the  fruit  where  necessary.  Mat  up,  in  dry  weather, 
gooseberry  and  currant-bushes,  to  preserve  the  fruit 
till  late  in  the  autumn.  Every  exertion  must  now  be 
used  by  the  gardeners  to  preserve  the  ripening  fruit  on 
the  walls  from  insects,  and  destroy  wasp  nests. 

Forcing. — The  same  routine  of  cultivation  in  hot- 
beds and  pits  may  be  proceeded  in  as  stated  for  last 
month.  Sow,  and  propagate  by  cuttings,  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  month,  cucumbers,  to  be  afterwards  grown 
in  hot-water  pits,  or  in  boxes  in  the  front  of  the  pine- 
stove,  for  a  winter  crop.  In  the  pinery,  most  of  the 
fruit  will  be  cut  by  the  middle  of  the  month,  when  a 
general  shifting  of  succession-plants  should  take  place  ; 
as  also  a  pottiijg  of  suckers;  but  these  will  be  strength- 
ened by  being  allowed  to  remain  on  the  old  plant  until 


CALENDAR — SJBPTEMBER.  413 

the  end  of  this  month.  In  the  forcing-houses  where 
the  crops  are  past,  part  of  the  sashes  may  be  removed 
so  as  to  permit  thorough  ventilation. 

G-reeji-Jiouse. — Attend  to  the  propagation  of.  all  sorts 
of  green-house  plants  by  cuttings,  and  to  the  replacing 
in  the  green-house  and  stoves  the  more  tender  species, 
by  the  end  of  the  month  in  ordinary  seasons,  but  in  wet 
weather  in  the  second  week.  Sow  half-hardy  annuals, 
as  Clarkia,  Schizanthus,  Coreopsis,  &c.,  to  flower  dur- 
ing winter.  Also  begin  to  .propagate  the  various  spe- 
cies of  the  half-hardy  green-house  plants,  noticed  under 
February,  for  decorating  the  flower  garden  in  the  fol- 
lowing summer. 

Flower  Garden  and  Shrubbery. — Sow  in  the  second 
and  the  last  week,  on  a  warm  border  of  a  light,  sandy 
soil,  with  an  east  aspect,  for  planting  out  in  spring, 
Clarkia  pulchella,  pulchella  alba,  Gillia  capitata,  Col- 
lomia  coccinea,  Coreopsis  tinctoria,  (Enothera  Lind- 
leyana,  roseo-alba,  Romanzovii,  Collinsia  verna,  grandi- 
flora,  bicolor,  Eutoca  viscida,  Leptosiphon  densiflorus 
Nemophila  insignis,  Eschscholtzia  californica,  &c.  Sow 
auricula  and  primula  seeds  in  pots  and  boxes.-  Propa- 
gate all  sorts  of  herbaceous  plants  by  rooted  slip ;  lay 
chrysanthemums ;  in  the  first  week  take  off"  kyers  of 
carnations,  pink,  and  pansies.  Transplant  evergreens 
in  moist  weather,  about  the  end  of  the  month ;  and 
propagate  them  by  layers  and  cutting. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Sow.  a  few  small  salads  for  late 
crops;  lettuce,  parsley,  and  spinach,  if. not  done  last 
month,  for  spring  crops.  Plant  endive  and  lettuce. 
If  broccoli  be  too  strong  or  tall  to  withstand  the  win- 


414  CALENDAR — SEPTEMBER. 

ter,  lift  them  and  lay  them  nearly  up  to  the  neck  in 
the  earth.  Lift  onions,  and  lay  them  out  to  win  on 
a  dry  border  or  gravel-walk.  Lift  potatoes  and  store 
them; 

Fruit  Trees^  fc. — Finish  the  summer  pruning  and 
training.  Assist  the  maturing  of  the  fruit,  and,  what 
is  equally  important,  the  ripening  of  the  young  wood 
for  next  year,  of  peaches  and  nectarines^  on  hot  walls, 
with  fires  during  the  day.  Gather  and  lay  up  in  the 
fruit-room  with  care  the  autumnal  sorts  of  apples  and 
pears.  In  the  first  week,  plant  strawberries  for  a  main 
crop  next  season. 

Forcing. — Take  care  that  late  crops  of  melons  and 
cucumbers  be  not  injured  by  damping,  from  getting  too 
much  water  and  too  little  air.  In  the  pinery,  the  usual 
routine  of  cultivation  may  be  carried  on ;  in  the  first 
week  take  off  and  pot  all  strong  suckers,  if  not  done  in 
the  middle  of  kst  month;  the  remainder  may  be  taken 
ofi"  at  the  end  of  the  month,  and  planted  in  old  tan  in 
a  frame  or  pit  prepared  for  that  purpose :  in  this  way 
they  will  be  found  to  keep  much  better  over  the  winter, 
and  to  be  better  supplied  with  roots  than  if  they  had 
been  potted,  which  ought  never  to  be  done  after  this 
season.  Expel  damp,  and  assist  the  ripening  of  late 
crops  of  grapes  and  peaches  with  fires  during  the  day. 
Prune  early  grape-vines  and  peaches. 

Green-Jiouse,  Conservatory^  ^e. — All  repairs  of  paint- 
ing or  glazing  ought  to  be  finished  by  the  first  week, 
as  many  plants  will  require  to  be  taken  into  the  houses 
by  the  20th  of  the  month;  in  ordinary  seasons,  com- 
paratively few  green-house  plants  can  be  trusted  in  the 
open  air  after  this  period.  Pelargoniums  and  half- 
hardy  green-house  plants  may  be  kept  in   frames  or  in 


CALENDAR — SEPTEMBER.  415 

sheltered  situations  until  the  end  of  October.  Pot 
hyacinths,  polyanthus  narcissus,  and  tulips  for  forcing. 
The  same  attention  must  be  given  to  the  propagation 
of  half-hardy  green-house  plants  (see  February),  as  di- 
rected for  last  month.  Remove  stage  auriculas  to  the 
winter  frames  about  the  middle  of  the  month ;  also 
tender  alpine  plants,  keeping  the  glass-frame  shut  in 
wet  Aveather.  Early  in  this  month  replace  in  the  stove 
all  succulents  that  may  have  been  kept  in  the  green- 
house or  in  the  open  air  during  the  summer  months. 

Flotver'  Garden.,  ^c. — Sow  in  the  beginning  of  this 
month  all  half-hardy  annuals  stated  for  last  month,  if 
not  done  at  that  time.  Sow  also  the  different  species 
of  primula,  and  the  seeds  of  all  such  pla-nts,  for,  if  sown 
in  spring,  they  seldom  come  up  the  same  season,  but 
if  sown  in  September  or  October,  they  vegetate  readily 
in  the  succeeding  spring.  Continue  the  propagation  of 
herbaceous  plants,  taking  off  the  layers  of  carnations, 
pinks,  and  pansies,  and^  putting  them  into  a  nursery- 
bed  for  the  winter.  Pot  chrysanthemum  layers  by  the 
end  of  the  month.  Keep  all  dahlias  and  tall  herba- 
ceous plants  properly  staked  and  tied  up,  as  they  are 
very  liable  to  be  broken  by  high  winds  at  this  season. 
The  same  attention  must  be 'given  to  the  cleaning  and 
dressing  of  this  department  as  directed  for  the  former 
months.  Plant  evergreens;  make  layers,  and  put  in 
cuttings  of  most  of  the  hard-wooded  sorts  of  shrubby 
plants,  about  the  middle  and  end  of  the  month,  as  many 
will  succeed  better  at  that  season  than  if  these  opera- 
tions were  delayed  to  a  later  period. 


416  CALENDAR — OCTOBER. 


OCTOBER. 

Kitchen  Grarden. — Sow  small  salads  and  radishes  in 
the  first  week;  Mazagan  and  Marshall's  dwarf  beans 
and  early  frame  peas  (Warwick  variety)  in  the  last 
week.  If  the  winter  prove  mild,  they  will  be  somewhat 
earlier  than  those  sown  next  month  or  in  January. 
Prepare  and  make  up  mushroom-beds. 

Plant  early  cabbages  in  close  rows  for  spring  use. 
A  bed  of  cauliflowers  in  the  last  week,  to  receive  the 
protection  of  a  three-light  frame ;  or,  at  any  rate,  plant 
cauliflower  at  the  bottom  of  a  high  wall  or  hedge  in  a 
sheltered  situation.     Earth  up  celery  and  cardoons. 

Store  potatoes,  beet^  salsify,  scorzonera,  skirret,  car- 
rots, parsnips,  by  the  end  of  the  month. 

Fruit  G-arden. — Such  fruit  trees  as  have  dropped 
their  leaves  may  be  transplanted.  Protect  fig-trees, 
if  the  weather  prove  frosty,  as  soon  as  they  have  cast 
their  leaves.  Cover  late  crops  of  grapes  on  hot  walls 
with  woolen  nets  or  mats,  to  prevent  injury  from  frost. 
Store  and  lay  up  very  carefully  during  the  month  all 
sorts  of  apples  and  pears,  the  longest-keeping  sorts  not 
before  the  end  of  the  month,  if  the  weather  be  mild; 
a  part  of  them  may  be  placed  in  a  close  cellar. 

Forcing. — Assist  hotbeds  and  pits  Avith  fresh  linings, 
to  keep  up  the  declining  heat  of  such  as  have  not 
ripened  their  crops.  Late  vineries  and  peach-houses 
will  still  require  the  application  of  fire-heat  to  ripen 
the  wood;  for  if  this  be  not  accomplished,  the  next  crop 
will  be  inferior  both  in  quantity  and  quality.  Give 
abundance  of  air  to  the  pinery  in  good  weather,  gra- 
dually lowering  the  heat.     Prune  and  dress  early  vines 


CALENDAR — OCTOBER.  417 

and  peaches;  clean  and  repair  the  forcing-houses  and 
their  flues ;  continue  the  preparation  and  formation  of 
mushroom-beds. 

G-reen-liouse. — Replace  all  sorts  of  green-house  plants 
at  an  early  period,  as  many  of  them  are  often  much 
injured  by  cold  rains  and  frosty  mornings  at  this  sea- 
son. Fill  the  pits  with  pots  of  stocks,  mignonette,  and 
hardy  annuals,  for  planting  out  in  spring,  along  with 
many  of  the  more  hardy  sorts  of  green-house  plants. 
The  whole  ought  to  be  thoroughly  ventilated,  except  in 
frosty  weather.  Water  sparingly.  Begin  to  force 
roses,  hyacinths,  and  a  few  other  bulbs,  for  winter  and 
early  spring  decoration. 

Flower  Garden. — Sow  a  few  sorts  of  hardy  annuals 
in  a  frame,  or  on  a  sheltered  border,  for  spring  use,  as 
directed  for- August. 

Plant  the  greater  part  of  the  common  border  bulbs 
about  the  end  of  the.month,  with  a  few  anemones  for 
early  flowering.  Ti-ansplant  strong  plants  of  biennials 
and  perennials  to  their  final  situations. 

Protect  alpine  plants,-  stage  auriculas  and  carnations, 
with  glass  frames;  half-hardy  green-house  plants,  such 
as  fuchsias,  &c.,  about  the  end  of  the  month,  with 
coverings  of  broom  or  spruce-fir,  preferring  the  latter. 
Take  up,  dry,  and  move  dahlias  and  tigridia  tubers  in 
the  end  of  the  month;  pot  lobelias  from  the  open 
borders. 

Transplant  all  sorts  of  hardy  evergreens  and  shrubs, 
noticing  in  dry  soils  to  give  abundance  of  water.  Put 
in  cuttings  of  all  sorts  of  evergreens.  Attend  to  the 
removal  of  decayed  plants,  leaves,  and  rubbish  from 
the  walks  and  borders. 
36 


418  CALENDAR — NOVEMBER. 


November. 

Kitchen  Garden. — Sow  early  frame  pens,  preferring 
the  Warwick  variety,  and  mazagan  beans,  in  the  second 
week,  for  an  early  crop.  Protect  endive,  celery,  arti- 
choke, sea-kale,  with  stable-litter  or  ferns;  mulch  as- 
paragus with  hotbed  dung;  take  up  endive,  late  cauli- 
flower, early  broccoli,  and  lettuces,  and  lay  them  in  an 
open  shed,  or  in  old  cucumber  and  melon-pits,  which 
will  pnotect  them  from  frost,  and  afford  a  supply  dur- 
ing winter.  Force  rhubarb  and  sea-kale  in  the  open 
border,  under  boxes  or  cases,  surrounded  and  covered 
with  well-fermented  stable-litter. 

Fruit  gar  den. ^-V\diiit  all  sorts  of  fruit  trees  in  fine 
weather,  giving  an  abundant  supply  of  water  to  settle 
the  earth  about  the  roots.  Commence  and  carry  on 
the  various  operations  of  pruning  and  nailing  when  the 
weather  may  permit.  Take  off  such  late  sorts  of  apples 
and  pears  as  may  remain  on  the  trees,  and  lay  them 
carefully  in  the  fruit-room ;  which  place  will  require 
frequent  examination,  and  the  removal  of  all  decayed 
fruit. 

Foreing. — In  hotbeds  and  pits  keep  up  the  requisite 
degree  of  heat  by  frequent  additions  to  the  linings. 
Cucumbers  and  pines,  on  hotbeds,  will  require  more 
than  ordinary  attention,  to  prevent  them  damping  off 
from  too  much  moisture.  Where  a  circulation  of  hot 
water  in  pipes  is  employed  for  heating,. the  necessary 
temperature  and  dryness  are  much  more  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  gardener.  Force  asparagus,  rhubarb,  and 
sea-kale,  in  tlie  mushroom-house  or  pits  for  a  supply  at 
Christmas.     Attend  to  the  forcinir  of  mushrooms.     In 


CALENDAR — DECEMBER.  419 

the  forcing-houses,  prune  and  train  the  trees  ;  dig  and 
dress  the  borders  of  those  houses  in  -which  this  operation 
'has  not  ah-eady  been  done.  The  forcing  of  vines  is 
sometimes  commenced  at  this  season ;  but  the  progress 
must  be  very  slow  at  first:  the  crops  resulting  from  such 
early  forcing  are  generally  inferior  in  quantity. 

G-reen-house^  ^-c. — All  hardy  green-house  plants  must 
now  be  properly  protected,  by  being  replaced  in  the 
green-house  or  in  pits.  Give  abundance  of  air  in  fresh 
weather,  only  applying  heat  to  keep  out  the  frost  during 
the  night,  or  to  expel  the  damp,  with  the  assistance  of 
air  through  the  day :  remove  all  decayed  or  injured 
leaves,  watering  only  such  plants  as  require  it ;  the 
plants  in  the  alpine  and  auricula  frames  ought  still  to 
have  plenty  of  air,  but  very  little  watef.  Commence 
the  forcing  of  rhododendrons,  kalmias,  roses,  hyacinths 
and  tulips,  in  the  stove  or  in  pits. 

Flower  garden  S^c. — Plant  dried  tubers  of  border 
flowers,  but  the  finer  sorts  had  better  be  deferred  till 
spring.  Protect  such  half-hardy  plants  as  were  not 
sheltered  last  month.  Plant  deciduous  trees  and  shrabs 
as  long  as  the  weather  continues  favorable.  Dig  and 
dress  such  flower-borders  and  shrubberies  as  may  now  be 
cleared  of  annuals  and  the  stems  of  herbaceous  plants. 

December. 

Kitchen  and  Flower  Garden. — About  Christmas,  sow 
a  few  of  the  same  sorts  of  peas  and  beans  as  in  Novem- 
ber. Very  few  operations  can  be  carried  on  during  this 
month,  with  the  exception  of  trenching  and  digging  in 
dry  weather ;  but  this  ought  not  to  be  neglected. 

Plant  all  sorts  of  fruit  trees  in  mild  weather.     Pro- 


420  CALENDAR — DECEMBER. 

ceed  with  pruning  and  nailing  wall  trees,  whenever  an 
opportunity  occurs.  Examine  the  fruit-room  every 
week,  removing  the  fruit  found  in  a  state  of  decay. 

Forcing^  ^<?.^Go  on  with  the  usual  culture  of  those 
houses  which  have  been  commenced,  or  are  now  put  into 
operation,  attending  to  the  necessary  degrees  of  heat, 
&c. ;  the  same  attention  to  hotbeds  and  bits  will  be 
necessary,  as  in  the  last  month.  Continue  the  forcing 
of  asparagus,  rhubarb,  sea-kale,  and  mushrooms,  in  pits, 
or  in  the  mushroom-house. 

Green-house^  ^-c. — The  directions  for  last  month  will 
be  found  equally  applicable  for  this. 

Floiver  Garden,  ^-c. — The  directions  for  last  month 
will  also  be  found  equally  applicable  to  this.  Rake  and 
sweep  leaves  from  lawns  and  gravel-walks,  repairing  the 
latter  as  occasion  may  require. 


INDEX. 


jEthusa  . 

Air-pfants  {orchidacece) 

great  variety     . 

culture 
Airing  of  hot-houses 
Alderstone  melon-pit 
Almond-tree,  culture  of  the 
Alpine  or  rock  plants 
American  blight 

ground 

plants  for  the    . 
Anemone    •     . 

culture  of  the  . 

properties  of  a  fine  one 

soil  and  culture 
Angelica 
Annual  plants 

hardy 

half-hardy 

tender 
Annuals  recommended 
Aphis,  American     . 

wash  for  . 
Apples  and    pears,  modi 

storing 
A'pples,  best  for  cider 

best  kinds  in  the  U.  S. 

best    stocks    for    graftinj 
upon 

dessert,  kinds  recommend- 
ed 

great  nge  attained  by  trees 

kitchen,  recommended 

Paradise,  Doucin,  and  cral 
stocks  . 

remedy  against  the  blight 
Apple-tree,  culture  of  the 
Apricots,  kinds  of,  to  be  pre- 
ferred . 
Apricot-tree,  on  the  manage- 
ment of  the 
Artichokes,  culture  of 


224 
309 

ib. 
310 
334 
383 
113 
247 
147 
248 
249 
281 

ib. 

ib. 
282 
238 
269 

ib. 
270 
271 
269 
147 
113 

149 
145 

148 

145 

141 
149 
143 

145 
147 
140 

114 


Asparagus,  culture  of 

forcing  of 
Atkinson's  melon-pit 
Auricula,  classes  of 

composts  for    . 

propagation  of 

Balm        .     '    .    '-   . 
Bark  stove 

plants 
Barberry 

Barbe  de  Capuchin 
Barrenness  of  fruit-trees,  how- 
prevented 
Beans,  best    varieties    for  the 
U.  S.     . 

garden,  kinds,  and  culture 
Beet,  red,  culture  of, 

sea-kale    . 

white 
Bergamot  pears 
Beurre  brown 

d'Aremberg 

Diel  and  Ranee 
Biennial  plants 
Biennials,  ornamental,  recom 

mended 
Blossoms,     protecting 

fruit-trees 
Borage    . 

Borecole,  kinds,  &c. 
Broccoli,  culture  of 
Brussels  sprouts 
Buchanan  on  the  grape  culture 

recommended 
Budding,  propagation  by 
Bulbous,  vernal  plants 
Bullace    . 
Burnet     . 
Bush  basil 


110 

218 
30 


Cabbage,  kinds  and  culture 


211 
213 

382 

288 

2S9 

ib. 

239 
300 
307 
170 
223 

58 

183 
181 
196 
197 
ib. 
129 
130 
132 
134 
268 

ib. 

58 
237 
173 
176 
173 

77 
44 
264 
170 
239 
240 

171 


422 


INDEX. 


Calender,  monthly  .         .         .  395 

Camellias,  cultivation  of          .  304 

Canteloupes     ....  231 

Cape  heaths,  or  ericae      .         .  303 

Capsicum  or  chilly  .         .         .  238 

Caraway           ....  240 

Cardoons,  culture  of        .         .  220 
Carnation         .         .         .         .291 

propagation  of          .         .  292 

varieties  and  culture  of   .  291 

Carnations,  cultivation  of        .  291 

Carrots,  kinds  and  culture       .  184 

Cashaw 232 

Catawba  grape         ...  69 

mammoth          ...  71 

white        ....  70 

Cauliflower,  culture  of    .         .  174 

Celery,  culture  of  .         .         .  225 

Celeriac,  culture  of         .         .  226 

Chamomile      ....  ^40 

Cherries,  kinds  of  .         .         .  121 

geans,  or  guignes,  \^  hat  .  123 

Guignier,  Merisier,  and  Bi- 

garotier,  what       .         .  124 

stocks  preferred  for  graft- 
ing on  . 

riders    or   high- stemmed 
trees      .... 

Marasca,  Morello,  Maha- 
leb,  and  Mazzard 

how  classified  by  the  French 


best  kinds  in  the  U.  S. 

forcing  the  fruit 
Cherry-house,  management  ol 
Cherry-tree,  pruning  and  train 

ing 
Chervil  . 
Chestiiut-tree  . 
Chicory  . 
Chive  . 
Chrysanthemum  sinense,  culti 

vation  of 
Ciboule   . 
Cigar-box  grape 
Cions,  importance  of  their  being 

taken  from  healthy  wood 

in  shy-bearing  trees  should 
be  taken  from  the  most 
fruitful  branches    . 

mode  of  preservmg  . 

the  preparing  of,  for  graft- 
ing       .  ... 
Citron  des  Carmes,  pear 
Citron,  or  cedrate  . 
Clary       .         .          .  .         . 
Climbing  shrubs,  ornamental. 


lb. 

ib. 

125 

125 
126 
354 
ib. 

124 
237 
155 

222 
207 

295 

202 

71 

41 


ib. 
ib. 

ib. 
127 
355 
240 


,  fine 


Climbing  shrubs, 

recommended 
Clingstone  peaches 

nectarines 
Cloudberry 
Coffee  chickory 
Colmar  and  Passe  Colmar 

pears    . 
Col  worts 
Conservatory,  general  structure 
of  the    . 

plants 
Corbett's  hot-water  system  an 

ticipated 
Coriander 
Corn  salad 
Costmary 

Couper's  large  red  plum 
Cranberries,  culture  of 
Crasanne  pear 
Cress,  garden,  raising  of 

water 
Crocus  . 
Cucumbers,  forcing  of 

kinds  and  culture  of 

West's  forcing-pit 

varieties  of 

raised  for  pickling 
Cunningham  grape  . 
Currants,  red  and  white 

black 
Curvilinear  roofs 
Cuttings,  propagation  by 


257 

94 

ib. 

170 

224 

133 
172 

299 
305 

331 

240 
210 
240 
118 
169 
132 
227 
227 
285 


234,  388 

.  381 

.  388 

.  389 

.  72 

.  156 

.  157 

.  338 


Dahlia,  or  Georgina,  history  of   285 
culture  of         .         .         .     288 
new    varieties    how    pro- 
cured   .         .         .         .287 

properties  of  a  fine  one     .     287 

varieties  of,  how  classed  .     287 

Damson  plums         .         .         .     119 

Diana  grape     ....       72 

Dill  ...         .         .         .238 

Doyenne  pear  .         .         .     129 

Dwarf  wall-trees     ...       48 


Easter  beurre  pear 
Edgings  for  flower-borders 
Egg  plant 

Elder      .... 
Elsenburg  grape 
Endive,  culture  of  . 
Epiphytes,  cultivation  of 
EriccE,  cultivation  of 
Espalier-rails  . 

trees,  training  . 
Everlasting  potato  . 


133 

252 
234 
170 

70 

222 

311 

303 

25,48 

50 
185 


INDEX. 


423 


Fan-training  of  fruit-trees 

56 

Garden, 

Fences  of  garden     . 

20 

enclosure-walls 

21 

Fennel  and  Finochio 

238 

soil,  manures,  &c.    . 

27 

Fettitus  .         .         .         .         . 

210 

internal  arrangement 

28 

Fig-house,  general  management 

cress         .... 

226 

of  the    . 

354 

patience  .... 

210 

Figs,  kinds  and  culture   . 

89 

Gardens,  winter  and  summer  . 

248 

Filbert 

154 

Garlic,  culture  of    . 

207 

Florists' flowers,  what     . 

272 

Girkins  for  pickling 

389 

Flower-beds,  shapes  of  . 

245 

Gladioli,  or  corn  flags 

2^5 

Flower-garden,  principles  and 

Glazed  houses 

296 

national  styles  of. 

241 

Gooseberries,  kinds    and  cul- 

situation and  form  of 

240 

ture  of           .         .         . 

157 

soil  for     .         .         ... 

249 

Gourde,  cultivation  of     . 

390 

two  British  styles      . 

243 

Gowan's     mode     of    grafting 

walks        .... 

251 

grape-vines  . 

79 

Flowering  plants,  how   to  be 

Grafting,  propagation  by 

39 

arranged  to  produce  the 

by  approach      . 

42 

best  effects  . 

260 

of  grape-vines  . 

79 

Flues,  contruction  of 

315 

Grapes  in  flower-pots 

65 

Forcing  department 

312 

for  wine   .... 

73 

Freestone  peaches  .         .       94 

102 

on  walls  .... 

65 

Frontignac  grapes  . 

60 

varieties  and  culture 

69 

Fruit-garden,  general  manage- 

best selection  for  an  ordi- 

ment of         .         .         . 

32 

nary  vinery  . 

64 

Fruit,  protection  of 

69 

kinds     commonly    grown 

Fruit-trees,   influence   of  the 

against  the  open  wall  in 

stock    upon    the    graft, 

England  and  Scotland  . 

ib. 

with  modes  of  obviating 

33 

the   celebrated   Hampton 

mode  of  procuring  uncon- 

Court  vine    . 

66 

taminated    seedlings  of 

great  age  attained  by  vines 

ib. 

best  varieties 

ib. 

ill  success  in  the   culture 

limitation  of  existence  in 

of  foreign  grapes  in  the 

choice  kinds 

34 

U.  S 

ib. 

Mr.  Knight's  experiments 

Dr.   Underbill's    observa- 

for producing  improved 

tions  on  the  grape  cul- 

and hardy  varieties 

35 

ture  in  the  U.  S.    . 

ib. 

means  of  accelerating  the 

Mr.  Wilson's  plan  of  pro- 

bearing of,  and  vines    . 

37 

tecting  foreign  grapes  in 

propagation     by    cuttings 

winter  .... 

67 

and  layers     . 

38 

great  success  of  the  grape 

propagation     by    grafting 

culture  in  Cincinnati     - 

68 

with  diff'erent   kinds  of 

the  Isabella, Catawba,  and 

stocks   to    suit   various 

other  best  native  Ame- 

sorts of  fruit 

40 

rican  grapes,  described 

69 

modes  of  improving  their 

best    foreign    grapes    for 

fruitfulness    by  ringing, 

under-glass    culture   in 

root-pruning,  &c. 

57 

the  U.  S.       . 

72 

mode  of  double  working 

Mr.  Longworth's  observa- 

pear-trees    . 

136 

tions     .... 

73 

Fuchsia 

257 

Mr.    Buchanan's    treatise 

F\irnaces,  plans  of . 

315 

upon     .... 

77 

propagation  of  the  vines  . 

ib. 

Galande  peach 

96 

grafting  grape-vines 

78 

Gansel's  bergamot  pear  . 

131 

single-eye  mode  of  propa- 

Garden, proper  size,  situation, 

gation   .... 

80 

&c 

16 

planting  out 

81 

424 


INDEX. 


drnpes, 

pruning    .         .         .         .  S2 

proper  soil  and  manures  .  83 

management  under  glass  .  84 

fall  and  winter  trimming  .  85 
bearing    capacities,    how 

estimated      .         .         .  ih. 
routine  of  grape-house  cul- 
ture without  fire-heat    .  86 
forcing  grapes  ripe  at  all 
seasons          .         .         .  342 
Grasses  for  lawns    ...  17 
Gravel  for  garden-walks          .  351 
Green-gage  plum     .         .         .117 
Green-house,  structure  of       .  297 
plants  recommended         .  301 
Guigne-trees   ....  123 

Hampton  Court  vine,  astonish- 
ing productiveness  of  .  66 
Haricots,  or  kidney  beans  .  180 
Hazel-bush,  culture  of  .  .  152 
Heath-house  .  .  .  .299 
Heaths,  hardy,  list  of  .  .  304 
Heating  by  hot  water  .  .  323 
Heating  of  glazed    houses  by 

steam    ....  318 
Herbaceous  ornamental  plants 

recommended        .         .  259 

vernal       ....  264 

summer    ....  265 

autumnal           .         .         .  267 

Herbaceous  perennial    plants, 

how  propagated  .  .  268 
Herbs,  sweet,  list  of  .  .  239 
Horizontal  training  of  wall- 
trees,  Hitt,  &c.  .  .  52 
Horse-radish,  culture  of  .  .  237 
Horticultural  Societies,  notices 

of          .         .         .         .12 
Hotbeds          .         .         .         .380 
Hotbed  frames         .         .         .  ib. 
Hot-houses,  their  principal  ob- 
jects,   .         .         .         .313 
flues  and  furnaces  for        .  315 
method   of  applying   sur- 
face and  bottom  heat    .  322 
warming  with  hot  water, 
and    principles   of  the 
apparatus      .         .         .  323 
common  tank    boiler  and 

furnace           .         .         .  324 
Mr.    Rogers'    boiler,    de- 
scribed and   delineated  325 
hot-water  apparatus  for  a 

vinery  ....  328 

siphon  principle  applied  .  329 


Hot-houses, 

Perkin's  hermetically  sealed 

tubes     .         .         .         .230 
Mr.Corbett's  mode  of  heat- 
ing        ...         .     331 
Mr.    Randle's    method    by 

tanks     .  .         .         .       ib. 

sun's  rays,  efficiency  of  .     332 
fermentable       substances 
used  to  create  bottom- 
heat      .         .         .         .333 
necessity    of   the    skillful 
management  of  artificial 
heat      ....       ib. 
admission  of  air  to  be  well 

regulated       .         .         .     334 
admission  of  light     .         .     335 
proper  pitch  of  roofs         .     336 
Curvilinear  roofs  proposed     338 
foreign  plants    frequently 
introduced     into     fruit- 
houses           .         .         .     353 
Hyacinth,  cultivation  of  .         .     273 
marks  of  a  fine  one  .         .     274 
exorbitant  prices  of,  in  Hol- 
land     .         .         .         .273 
Dutch  compost  for  raising     274 
culture      ....     275 
forcing      ....       ib. 
new    varieties,  how    pro- 
duced  .         .         .         .276 
Hyssop 239 


Inarching 

Indian  cress,  tuberous 
Insects,  destroying  of 
Iris,  varieties  of,  and  cul 
Persian    and  snake 
species 
Isabella  grape 

Jargonelle  pear 
Jasmine  . 
Jerusalem  artichoke 

Kale,  culture  of 
Kentish  cherry 
Kidney-beans,  culture  o 
Knight's   theory   regardi 
age  of  fruits 

new  apples 

new  pears 
Kohl-rube,  culture  of 

Lambs'  lettuce 
Lawns,  grasses  for 
Lavender 


.  43 

.  201 

.  113 

vation  283 

!  head 

.  ib. 

.  6S 

.  127 

.  254 

.  191 


173 
123 
181 

35 
142 
135 
174 

210 
17 

239 


ns   the 


INDEX. 


425 


Layers,  propagation  by   .         .38 

Leeks,  culture  of    .         .         .  206 

Lemon    .....  356 

Lettuce,  kinds  and  culture       .  221 
Light,  necessity  of,  in  glazed 

houses  .  .  .  335 
Lilies,  cultivation  of  .  .  284 
Lime,  sweet  ....  356 
Lima  beans  ....  183 
Lobelia,  kind  for  flower-garden  294 
Longueville  pear  .  .  .  128 
Ohio  grape  ...  71 
Longworth  on  the  grape  cul- 
ture .  •  .  .  73 
Love  apple      ....  236 

Maddox  grape  ...       71 

Mahaleb  cherry       .         .         .     124 

Manures  for  gardens        .         .       27 

Marie-Louise  pear  .         .         .     131 

Marigold  .         .         .         .237 

Mayduke  cherry      .         .         .     121 

Medlar-tree,  culture  of  .         .     150 

Melonry,  for  forcing  melons    .     380 

Melon  pit,  Alderston's    .         .     380 

West's      .         .         .         .381 

Atkinson's        .         .         .382 

Melons,  kind  and  culture        .     230 

forcing  of         .         .         .     382 

different  kinds  .         .     383 

proper  heat  required  for  .     388 

Mildew  and  insects,  to  destroy 

on  fruit  trees  .  .113 
Missouri  grape  ...  70 
Montreuil  peach-training  .     108 

Moorfowl-egg  pear  .         .     131 

Moorpark  apricot    .         .         .114 

Morel 237 

Morello  cherry  .  .  .123 
Mould  and  soils  for  green- 
houses ....  301 
Mulberry-tree,  culture  of  .  151 
Mulching,  great  advantage  of  47 
Muscat  grapes  .         .         .61 

Mushrooms,  culture  of    .         .391 
Mustard,  culture  of         .         .     227 

Narcissus,  genus,  cultivation  of  282 

Nasturtium       ....  201 
N^^tarines,  best  kinds  for  the 

United  States         .         .  104 

kinds  and  culture     .         .  102 
mode    of  producing   new 

varieties         .         .         .  105 

protection  against  insects  113 

varieties  and  culture         .  102 

Netted  citron  .         .         .         .231 


New  Zealand  spinach      .        .  208 

Noblesse  peach        ...  96 

Norton's  grape         ...  71 

Nutmeg  canteloupe          .         .  231 

Okra 235 

Oldacre's  mushroom-bed          .  391 

Onions,  kind  and  culture          .  202 

Orache 210 

Orangery,  general  management 

of  the  .         .        .         .  357 

Orange,  bitter           .         .         .  356 

citron  or  cedrate       .         .  355 

propagating  and  budding.  358 

sweet        ....  356 

tribe          ....  355 

Orchard,  site,  culture,  &c.       .  31 

Orchidaceae      ....  309 

tropical     ,         .         .         .309 

Oxalis  roots,  culture  of  .         .  199 

Oyster  plant    .         .         .         .198 

Parsnips,  culture  of  .  .  195 
Parsley,  culture  of  .  .  .  224 
Patience,  garden  .  .  .  210 
Peaches,  best   in   the   United 

States  .  .  .  .100 
enemies  of  the  peach  tree, 

and  remedies  against  .  101 
English  and  French  modes 

•of  training  the  tree  .  106 
modes  of  cultivating  in  the 

United  States  .  .  197 
mode   of   obtaining    new 

varieties  .  .  .105 
modes    of  protecting   the 

blossoms  in  England  .  112 
plans  of  pruning  for  fruit  107 
varieties  and  subvarieties 

of  ....      94 

when  the  trees  are  to  be 

trimmed        .        .         .113 
Peach-house,     structure     and 

management  of     .         .     349 
Pears,  best  kinds  of  fruit  in  the 

U.  States  .  .  .139 
fine  kinds,  early  .  .  127 
late  .         .         .         .130 

grafting  of  the  tree  .         .     135 
influence   of   the     parent 

stock  upon  the  fruit  .  136 
kitchen  sorts  .  .  .  135 
late  autumnal  and  winter 

sorts  .  .  .  .134 
Mr.  Knight's  varieties  .  135 
summer    management    of 

trees     .         .         .         .139 


426 


INDEX. 


Pear  tree,  management  of  .135 
Pears   and    apples,    modes    of 

storing  .         .         .     147 

Pearl  onion  ....  204 
Peas,  kinds  and  culture  .  .  178 
Peat-soil  for  flower-garden  .  249 
Peat,  when  only  partially  de- 
composed, prejudicial  to 
plants  .  .  .  .249 
Pelargoniums  .         .         .     303 

Pennyroyal  .  .  .  .239 
Pepper  grass  ....  228 
Peppermint  ....  239 
Perennials,  tall  ornamental  .  260 
Peruvian  rice  .         .         .     209 

Pimpernell  .  .  .  .239 
Pine-apples,  kinds  of  .  .  360 
pits  and  culture  .  .  361 
Pinks,  cultivation  of  .  .  298 
Plant-stove,  structure  of  .     300 

inmates  of        .         .         .     306 
Planting  of  fruit-trees      .         .       46 
Plants  requiring  a  peaty  soil   .     250 
shrubby,  for  edgings,        .     252 
such  as  are  to  be  wintered 
under  glass    .         .         .     260 
Plums,  kinds  and  culture  .     117 

Plum-tree,   best  kinds  in   the 

United  States         .         .     121 
destruction  of  fruit  by  the 
curculio,  how  counter- 
acted    .         .         .         .120 
Polyanthus,  cultivation  of        .     290 
Pond, how  to  make  impervious 

to  water  .  .  .  247 
Pond's  seedling  grape  .  .  71 
Potato  onion  ....  204 
Potato,  sweet  .         .         .     190 

Potatoes,  kinds  and  culture     .     185 
forcing  of  .         .         .188 

varieties  best  known  in  the 

U.  S ih. 

Powell  grape  ....       69 
Primula,  cultivation  of    .         .     290 
Propagation  of  plants  in  green- 
houses .         .         .302 

Pruning 49 

Prussian  grass  .         .         .     214 

Pumpkin  .         .         .         .232 

Purslane  .         .         .         .237 

Pyramide  training    ...       50 

Quenouille  training  .         .       50 

Quince-tree,  culture  of  .  .  150 
Quinoa  spinach,  culture  of      .     209 

Radish,  culture  of  .         .         .     198 


\  Rampions  or  ramps,  culture  of  220 

Ranunculus,  cultivation  of      .  279 

i  properties  of  a  fine  one   .  279 

I  proper  soil  for  the  beds    .  280 

I  propagation  of  .         .  281 

I  Raspberries,  kind  and  culture 

I  of  ....     159 

j  Rendle's  tank  heating     .         .  331 

Rhododendrons       .         .         .  255 

Rhubarb,  kinds  and  culture     .  228 

j  Rider  wall-trees      ...       48 

Rocambole      ....  207 

Rock-work      .         .         .         .246 

plants    recommended    for 

decorating  the       .         .  247 

Rogers'  conical  boiler     .      ,   .  325 

Root-grafting  ....       44 

Rosary,  management  of  the    .  258 

Rosemary        ....  239 

Sage 239 

Salad  herbs     ....  239 

Salsify 198 

Savory,  winter         .         .         .  239 

Savoy  greens,  culture  of  .  172 

Scallions,  mode  of  producing  203 

Scarioles  ....  222 

Scorzonera,  culture  of  .  .  198 
Scuppernong  grape  .  .  70 
Sea-kale,  culture   and   forcing 

of,  in  open  borders  .  215 
Seed,    mode    of  raising  fruits 

from  ...  .33 
Seedling  fruits,  raising  of        .       37 

Service-tree,  culture  of  .         .  151 

Shaddock-fruit,  culture  of       .  356 

Shallot,  culture  of  .  .  .  206 
Shelter,  necessity  and   means 

of  ....       18 

Shrubs,  deciduous  .         .         .  256 

evergreens  .  .  .  254 
in  planting  out,  how  to  be 

disposed  .  .  .  259 
ornamental,  recommend- 
ed .  .  .  .  '  253 
propagation  of  .  .  258 
Situation  for  fruit-garden,  &c., 

selection  of  .         .         .16 

of  flower  garden,      .         .  243 

Siphon  employed  in  circulating  • 

hot  water      .         .         .329 

Skirret,  culture  of  .         .         .  197 

Sloe 170 

Soil,    best  for  kitchen  garden       26 

for  flower  garden      .         .  249 

Sorrel,  common  and  French    .  237 

Spearmint        .         .         .         .  239 


INDEX. 


427 


Spinach,  culture  of 

wild 
Squash     .... 
Standard  fruit-trees,  training  ol 
Steam,    use    of,    for    heating 

glazed  houses 
Stocks  of  fruit-trees,  influence 
of,  upon  the  graft 

Paradise,     Doucin,     Bui 
lace,  Mahaleb 

for  fruit-trees    . 
Stove  plants     . 

compost  for 
Strawberry,  male  and  female 
how  distinguished 

bank 
Strawberries,   kinds   and  cul 
ture  of 

forcing  of 
Succory,  culture  of 
Summer  savory 
Sweet  basil 

herbs 

marjoram 
Syrian  grape  . 

Tanks,  heating  by  means  of 
Tetragonia,  culture  of    . 
Training  of  fruit-trees 
Trenching,  advantages  of 
Tulips,  cultivation  of 
Turnips,  kinds  and  culture 
Turnip-rooted  cabbage    . 

Vegetable  marrow  . 
Verdelho  grape        .         , 
Vernal  plants  . 


207  !  Vinery,    forcing   in    the  early 
210  vinery,  when  to  be  com- 

233  menced  and  proper  de- 


49 

grees  of  heat 

348 

structure  of  the 

342 

317 

training  of  vines  in  the    . 

346 

Vines,  grape,  sorts  cultivated 

60 

33 

Vine,  famous  one  at  Hamptoa 

Court    .... 

66 

40 

great  age  of  one 

66 

49 

sorts  adapted  to  the  U.  S. 

66 

306 

protection  of,  in  winter   . 

67 

307 

propagation  of 

77 

Violets,  sweet 

294 

167 

165 

Walks,  garden,  forming  of      . 

251 

Walls,  inclosure 

21 

161 

hot 

24 

166 

Wall-borders  .... 

30 

223 

Wall-trees,  training  of    . 

51 

240 

Walnut-tree,  general  manage- 

240 

ment  of  the  . 

154 

239 

Washington  plum    . 

lis 

240 

Water,  necessity  of  a  supply  of 

19 

64 

hot,    for    heating    glazed 

houses  .... 

324 

331 

melon       .... 

230 

208 

Welsh  onion    .... 

202 

49 

West's  melon  pit     . 

381 

26 

Winter  garden 

248 

276 

squash       .... 

232 

192 

Witty's  furnace 

316 

174 

Woodson  grape 

72 

233 

Yair,  green  pear  of 

128 

63 

264 

Zante,  or  Corinth  grape  . 

62 

nOfBRTY  UBJWRf 
N.  C.  State  Coll'9f 


THE    END, 


«*& 


Dioision  of  Horticulture, 
S.  0.  Dep't  of  AgricnItB^,  ' 


North  Carolina  State  University  Libraries 

SB98 .N5 

FRUIT  FLOWER  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN 


S02787133  G 


